mahobaygirl

I am really enjoying your TR. And you found White Bay!! It probably has to be my favorite place I have ever been! So far we have only done day trips to JVD, but we managed to book a 2 night stay in Jan. I am so excited! I do think if we had a full week on that island, we'd need rehab!!
Do you know how to make painkillers?? It is a nice way to remember the trip!

Tuxedocat

Thank you thank you thank you! You just keep on writing your trip report as long as you like. Some of us don't tire of the minutiae of STJ snorkeling. By the way, when you go out there again. I will tell you a couple of spots to go that you will just love. You seem like the adventurous type of snorkeler. Also, I totally agree with you about the mosquitos, but at least they're big enough to swat at. It's those no-see-ums that really abuse me. My legs and ummh...backend got so chewed up one evening in late August, I looked like a victim of a strange skin rash! Oh well, every rose has its thorns, but what a rose STJ is!

bluefan

poss,
The book STJ OTBT doesn't have as much individual beach info as his site, just a brief description of each, directions to get there, as well as info on the snorkeling there, with photos of a few selected beaches. The coffee-table photo book St John Beach Guide probably has the detailed info as the site; just not travel handy.

Rats poss, the western portion of Little Caneel was the only spot I didn't snorkel . Now I feel this urgent need to return to Caneel Bay

caribtraveler,
I've got a Canon S80 with an underwater housing (WP-DC1); i've been very happy with it and it has a specific underwater scene/mode; i bought it a year ago so it's probably dated by now

mahobaygirl,
I can get the "secret" Painkiller recipe off Pusser's Rum Co Souvenir Mug >
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._1920_12867908
http://store.pussersstore.com/topamug.html

Thanks all for the kind feedback too from all of you, including ejcrowe, carrybean, christie and tuxedocat. Believe me when I say I'm able to offer a glowing report in part because of all the contributions all of you make here.

mahobaygirl

Before our first trip to STJ, I bought the book, Feet, Fins, and 4 wheel drive. I think the author is pam Griffin. No pictures, really informative, tells you where to snorkel at all the beaches, all the hiking trails and all the little details that go along with exploring. I bought it online at the VINOW site.
It is a great reference to take along with you.
We actually did the Bordeaux Mt. drive, one that takes you down this really, REALLY washed out road (I was afraid to watch) down into Coral Bay. If Denzil only knew...

tpatricco

Pam Gaffin is the author of Feet, Fins & Four Wheel Drive.

bluefan, you covered alot of ground in your short visit...shounds like you had a fantastic time too.

You shoulda gone for it with the Jeep...it could easily make it over the hill to Little Lamesur. A heck of alot easier than walking! We've gone in the cheapie suzukis, wranglers and a Montero. As long as you have 4WD you should be fine. I've seen plenty of regular cars over there too. Little Lamesur is my favorite limin' beach, and we've had good snorkling there too.

As I type, I'm trapped in Minneapolis airport waiting for a delayed flight home from Calgary. Thankfully we leave for Bermuda on Thanksgiving...you have made my STJ Fever kick up significantly.

I'm with tuxedocat...I live vicariously through everybody's trip reports 'til my next trip to paradise!

cawhite

Thanks, bluefan, for the detailed report and the fabulous pictures.

Our family of 4 just this week booked a June trip to the USVI. We, too, will have a long trek as we're from San Diego.

Thanks again for showing us what we have in store. We can't wait for the great scuba diving and snorkeling!

Carole

poss

bluefan: ouch! I just read your post abt that beach book being a coffee table book! I'd ordered it on line a couple of hours ago. It's of no use to me-- I thought it was the take-along kind of thing! I guess I'll try to contact them to see if they'll be gracious enough to allow me to cancel the order.

mahobaygirl

tpat...thanks for the correct author name on the book. I do not have mine here with me at this time.
poss-I also have STJ beach guide. It is a "nice" paperback, one that you can use as a coffee table book, but also take with you on your trip.It is not hugely oversized. I just found more detailed info on the one previously mentioned.

iamq

Great report bluefan! Your raves about Caneel make me sad that we did not stay there. Next time! Looking forward to reading more.

Bill

owa

bluefan, Fantastic report. We just missed each other at Caneel as we arrived there the afternoon of the 4th from STX. This was our third time at Caneel. I'm going to try and post my thoughts. I met Dianebridles (she posts on this board--has been to Caneel many times) and we snorkled Hawksnest together. It was great to meet her and spend time together. Owa

anna_k

We just returned from St John on Friday, I enjoyed your trip report and photos. My 2 1/2 year old daughter and I are full of bug bites too! We rented a villa. We've been to STJ twice before, but it had been 4 years since our last visit, we'd forgotten how much we loved STJ.

How was staying at Caneel with a toddler?

poss

annak: I may be wrong abt this, but I've always had the sense that bugs aren't much in evidence at Caneel. I suspect that they spray.

rockie

Thank you, Bluefan, for a great report! I look forward to reading more. Like you, I loved Salomon beach. We did the hike down and snorkeled it on one of our first days and loved the privacy and beauty of it. The snorkeling was good too! Glad you and your family had a great trip.

brenandg

What a great and detailed trip report. I hope you will continue on. I think you mentioned FOOD being next

DebitNM

Love reading your TR and reliving our trip to STJ this past spring!

What Brenda said...the food report! Bring it on~~
Debi

bluefan

tpatricco,
I'll definitely go for the drive next time, since I've yet to snorkel the Tektite site (Great Lameshur) nearby. Other than it's beauty, the great thing about Little Lameshur is that it feels secluded. I didn't see any one else during my 4 hours there until I saw a single car make the drive during my walk back.

Bill,
I wouldn't feel too bummed about missing Caneel Bay. I'm positive my family would've had just as great a time on St John without having experienced Caneel Bay; not to mention a lot more $ left for other things. For us, it was more like icing on the cake near the end of our trip.

My family would've been just as happy staying in a villa near Francis Bay for a whole week

With that being said, anna_k, I would add that Caneel Bay is conveniently great for families with toddlers. No need to gather all the stuff, pack it all into the rental, drive to a beach, etc.

It's great to just take a few steps out of your room and find yourself on a fabulous beach. Or have an on-property shuttle take you to other terrific beaches within minutes. And when your kid needs a nap, there's no need to drive back to the hotel/villa if he/she can't sleep at the beach. And food/drinks are within easy walk at Caneel Beach.

I'm guessing that's the drawback for St John being such a pristine haven (2/3 national park): except for Caneel Bay, you won't find any resorts occupying any fabulous beachfronts like you would say in T&C, Cayman, Aruba, Jamaica, Bahamas, etc. But I like St John just the way it is...hoping those undeveloped Nat'l Park (northshore) beaches stay that way forever. Thank you Mr. Rockefeller.

owa,
I would've loved meeting you. I'm dying to hear your thoughts on Caneel Bay as you've been there multiple times.

poss,
I still got bit a bit at Caneel Bay. I'm not very familiar with mosquito control, but my hypothesis with possibly fewer mosquitos is that there's no significant bodies of standing water for them to breed (like a salt pond) on the expansive property. I don't know if they spray or not.

CaliNurse

Bluefan, what a great trip report. Thank you for posting. No probs re: "too long" for when it comes to reading details and happy stories of St J... no such thing as too long!!

Wonderful pix of StJ and your beautiful family!! Looking forward already to photos of your NEXT trip with another Bluefan Family member in the scene

Agreed, Westin's great for families (and for mtg other families with kids, if desired). Glad your son liked the pool. Did you get a chance to rent a dinghy?? If not, put it on your list for next time--great fun for the little ones, watching parents play Captain and Explorer.

Again, thanks for sharing your memories and impressions, and letting us who read them participate vicariously ---and get ideas for next trip (White Bay, here i come).

After 2 weeks home, have you successfully made the transition from island time to LA time? I totally agree about both the useful and FUN aspect of "extensive trip research."

bluefan

The food...

<b><font color="green">Dinners</font></b>

<font color="green">Lime Inn</font> our first night – My wife's seafood spaghetti was pretty good, and my grilled lobster was OK. I felt they had relatively reasonable prices, and we really enjoyed the casual atmosphere here (but no views).

<font color="green">Panini Beach Trattoria</font> – Not too much to tout about the Italian fare here, but the terrific harbor location is sure nice – great views.

<font color="green">Rhumb Lines</font> – a Winner for us – a place that packs in the flavor – almost too much. I love spicy, and their sauces were &quot;hot&quot; even for me. They had a very interesting pan-pacific menu—like something I'd find in Hawaii. The open-air, tropical atmosphere was also a highlight (but no views).

<font color="green">Fish Trap</font> – It had finally reopened for the season on Halloween, but the kitchen seemed unprepared as wait times for food was much too long -- easily double to triple the time it took at all the other restaurants. At least our waitress was friendly as she tried to appease us during the long wait. The food, when it finally came out, was definitely interesting and/or delicious. My wife's &quot;Noogins&quot; was interesting and full of different flavors, and my fresh fish (swordfish) was deftly prepared – very moist and succulent. A pleasant, casual environment (no view).

<font color="green">Chloe &amp; Bernard's</font> at the Westin was our priciest dinner up to that point, but one we felt was worth the cost. Amazingly, we were really pleased with every appetizer, salad, entree and dessert we ordered – everything was delicious and plated nicely. With their whimsical atmosphere having those long, vertical, suspended fabrics, it turned out to be one of our best dining experiences on St John.

<font color="green">The Equator</font>
After Chloe &amp; Bernard's, we we're ready for a letdown at this Caneel restaurant, but it proved to be a very enjoyable experience. The circular restaurant is situated over a stone sugar mill ruin, perched relatively high so that you could see out to the shimmering lights of St Thomas. Basically, the whole atmosphere there, including the restaurant itself, is very picturesque. As for the food, appetizers were just OK, but the entrees were very delicious. We really enjoyed the friendly service there: Elvis, our waiter, was fantastic as was the rest of the staff towards my boy.

<font color="green">Caneel Beach Bar</font>, after first determining that the Turtle Bay Estate House would be much too formal for us with our child in tow, we decided to try the casual grill next to the bar. The Voodoo Ribs were good, but I don't recall much of anything else.

I'll cover our lunch spots later on.

Overall, I found the prices pretty reasonable for an island destination and service surprsingly good. Maybe I came predicting &quot;island time&quot; service too much .

CaliNurse

Hi again, Bluefan, and more thanks for continuing your TR.
Did you by chance try the beachside restaurant at the Westin? I think it's called Beach Cafe ( by the ferry dock). We were pleasantly surpirsed by the excellent food and service and the fun of the band's music(grandparents and little kids dancing).
Oh, and those BIG plastic cups of rum punch at the pool . Time for a return trip.
Yeah, those skeeters can put a damper on the trip. It's the one thing I have to mentally block out--i stay in bug denial til arrival. Forewarned is forearmed, but NO repellant, has yet been foolproof for me.

(Still, to keep it in perspective, I just came from a week in Yelapa MX where the big problem was scorpions, not mosquitoes. One of our group was stung. My roommate saved me when she found one crawling over my cosmetic bag and captured it under a wine glass! Shivers. TR to follow when i get my act together.)

CaliNurse

P.S. Bluefan, hi again. As a fellow Californian, I'm curious about the plane route you took from our state to StJ--esp'lly as you had your young son with you.
Did you do it all in one day, or did it involve an overnight stay? First trip, we left SFO early a.m. , arrived late to STT via MIA, and spent night in motel next to airport. This last trip, we stayed overnight in Miami nr the airport, to break up the trip, for my very well-behaved grandkids, who can take only so much of sitting still before the &quot;well-behaved&quot; threatens to become a challenge!