poss

I won't be doing a trip report, but will happily answer any specific questions posters might have.
As in the past, we split our time, 5 days at Caneel, 5 at Gallows Point. Continue to be awed by the handsomeness of the grounds and the beaches at Caneel and the good and varied snokeling. (We spend much of every day in the water.) Continue to wish the rooms were larger and the food better. (Food at all restaurants is mediocre in our opinion; much better cuisine in town.)
Still enjoy the change of going to Gallows for some of the days. Pretty good snorkeling (esp if one goes off the point, out to the reef in the middle of the Bay)
Next year back to Virgin Gorda (Little Dix and Mahoe Bay villa). The year after, hopefully St John again.
Happy to answer questions. And happy holidays to all.

poss

Interesting that they're no queries. I guess I'll monitor for another day or so.
Have decided that next year it'll be a Mahoe Bay/Peter Island split. Hopefully the year after, a Little Dix/Caneel split. Will be a first for us at PI. All the Virgin Islands are so handsome!
Happy and safe travels to all. (with special commiseration to folks in the Denver area.)

ejcrowe

Isn't it frustrating when you post and there are no replies?! Sorry, poss!

I'd love to hear which locations you snorkeled and how you would rank them. What room category do you usually get at Caneel? If money is a bit of an issue and one's priority is snorkeling, do you think it's worth it to upgrade from the lowest room category?

Thanks!

pegprescott

I am planning a week in St. John in January. I have rented a house for the entire family. Any thoughts on good restaurants in Cruz Bay? Also, I would like to try Virgin Gorda later in the spring--just for the two of us. What is Mahoe Bay like? Where did you locate your accommodations? Any other thougts on Virgin Gorda?

Thanks.

poss

Actually, it doesn't bother me if there aren't any questions-- it's just that since I consult this forum a lot, I always want to be sure to try to return the favor: to be able to help where I can.

We like the Cottage Point or Paradise Beach rooms best at Caneel. Privacy and quiet are big factors for us, as well as great views if possible, and for our taste Cottage Point wins hands down. (Obviously, cottage 7 would be great also.) Though we think the beach at Hawksnest is gorgeous, we don't like the room set-up, i.e. feels too much like a motel kind of thing; we much prefer sinlge units, rather than one up,one down. Don't like Scott's bec it doesn't feel very private to us, plus we think the views are better from higher up. I've found, by the way, that Caneel is very good abt complimentary upgrades. Unless you're going at absolutely high season, I'd guess that you could pay for the less expensive room category and nicely ask to be upgraded: Caneel has never failed us (in that respect).
As for where the best snorkeling is-- as you know if you've done much snorkeling, it all depends... a particular spot can be very good one day, or one part of a day, and less good another time. But we love the left side of Little Caneel beach. We never-- literally never-- fail to see lots of squid there, and plenty of other stuff too; and lots of interesting tube coral and tube worms. also a couple of eel this time. We enjoy the snorkel out along that side, over around the point to Honeymoon Beach, then walk the pretty beach and pop back in the water again to snorkel the point between Honeymoon and Salomon. But we also like the snorkel from the right side of Caneel beach around to Paradise beach and back: always see enormous amounts of fish there and there's decent coral. Left side of Hawksnest, all the way out and way around the point, is also very good, but conditions have to be right; other side of Hawksnest is less impressive (lacks the big walls), but still very nice. Usually see barracuda at Hawksnest and sometimes sharks. Plenty of turtles everywhere. All of Caneel is very good snorkeling imo. Also enjoy Jumbie (left side) and that area I mentioned off Gallows Point--lots of tall coral structures to snorkel around in. Didn't enjoy Salt Pond all that much when we went some years ago, so haven't bothered going back. Have enjoyed Waterlemon several times, but didn't do this time. Gerald Singer's ST JOHN BEACH GUIDE is very good. Also the guide book calledt John: Feet, Fins and Fourwheel Drive.
In short, ej-- if snorkeling is a main thing for you, and if you can swing it at all, I'd for sure recommend Caneel. Book one of the less expensive rooms, and hope to upgrade (often more than one "step&quot
Peg: Best restaurants in our opinion are: Stone Terrace, Tage, Zozo, Ten Tables. Also like Tapas and Lime Inn. Food is pretty expensive on St John (though not compared to Anguilla and St Barts!) And if you're big eaters, the buffets at Caneel are good.
Virgin Gorda is wonderful! Similar to St John in having a variety of very handsome beaches, many with easy access to good snorkeling. The island itself is just as handsome, we think-- nice and hilly like St John. Less crowded, becasue more difficult to get to. The little town is smaller, with fewer restaurants, though there are some good ones. And I sure wish St John had something like those wonderful villas at Mahoe Bay! The villas are quite handsome (heads and shoulders above Gallows Point, e.g.) AND they're right on an excellent beach. Gorgeous views, fine beach, quite good snorkeling. About a 10 min drive to "town." If you google something like"villas on Virgin Gorda," you'll find lots of agenicies who rent there (Prices are same no matter whom you rent from). Villas at Guavaberry are very popular also, and less expensive than Mahoe; thye're also near good snorkeling (and The Baths)

Have fun looking and choosing, and post again if you have further questions.

brenandg

poss,
Just curious how you liked your unit at Gallow's? I know you were worried about it before you left.

pegprescott,
We also liked La Tapa and The Lime Inn, no views though. The mussels dish at Lime Inn is excellent if you like seafood. The Banana Deck has a very good Rib eye steak at a moderate price. Cafe Roma is good for Italian. We would split an entree, salad and appetizer and have plenty. I have to give a mention to Paradise Cafe which is a little kiosk at Wharfside Village. They had the best breakfast sandwich for $4.00. Bargain for St John standards. Wish we had tried that place before our last day. Have a great trip.

poss

Ah, Gallows! It really is a pleasant place in many ways, but those units really are getting awfully "tired." The unit we usually rent--3D-- was already booked by the time we made our reservations so we booked 3C. 3C is even more dated than 3D-- but the view is just as good. In fact, 3C has even greater privacy on the lanai. (We always ate breakfast out there in birthday suits;likewise on our Caneel lanai.) The big (well, not "big" on any serious scale) problem was that there was some sort of water problem that'd been going on for a couple of weeks and that they'd not been able to trace. The water out of all the faucets was brown! Toilet bowls always looked as if they'd not been flushed. Filling sink basins to wash out bathing suits, etc was kind of nauseating. They gave us bagged ice cubes and told us not to drink the water, so we used bottled water for brushing teeth also. Not too fun, but also not any big deal. The problem was only in building 3, by the way; rest of the resort was fine. And never any noise. But that new hotel or condo or whatever--yuk!
Thanks for asking, brenandg!

ScottB

Our best two meals in Cruz Bay were at Zozo's & the Balcony. The calamari at Zozo's was excellent, as were the lobster tails. For the Balcony, the lobster crepe appetizer was incredible, and the Chilean Sea Bass entree was also outstanding. We had other good meals, but these places stood out for sure. For just a good burger & brew, the Beach Bar fits the bill.

Brenandg,
I did get your voicemail (Thanks for trying), and wish we could of hooked up. Hope your trip was great...We loved Gallows, and will definitely be returning.

ejcrowe

Thanks for the snorkeling and room details, poss. I'll file them away for future reference!

brenandg

Sorry to hear about the water issue, but I guess that could happen anywhere on STJ. One day while we were there, I was literally about to step into the shower and the water abruptly stopped. I was glad that it happened before I had a head full of shampoo! We called the desk to make them aware and it was back on within the hour. When the water came back on, it was brownish like you mentioned. And yes, the toilet looked like it hadn't been flushed. It didn't bother us either, as "stuff" happens. I don't drink tap water even at home. That Grand Bay resort is a monstrosity, is it not? I am curious as to what type of accomodations it will be. If they are condo type units and the price was right, I might consider it. Time will tell. We are so hooked on the Caribbean and love STJ and the BVI's so much that we are planning on two trips next year. Looking at early June and late November right now.

Scottb,
Sorry we missed you, but glad you had a nice time. That Manager's Cocktail Party that I had mentioned before is only in high season we found out. Did you get to meet your forum friends at the Beach Bar?

Tuxedocat

Poss: thanks for posting. It's pathetic. I'll read anything on STJ. I'd love to try snorkeling off of the point you mentioned. And I guess I now know why I still haven't seen any turtles-- they're all hiding at Caneel, or anywhere I'm not! I enjoyed reading all of the other posts as well. IMO, Grande Bay Resorts is a total monstrosity. I'm sure the condo units will be quite luxurious as they are going for high prices. As you have seen, Grande Bay is a looming presence in Cruz Bay. I hope that's the end. The Westin is also building more. On a lighter note, since it seems quite popular, maybe some Fodorites should get together and buy a unit or two at Gallows Point and refurbish? I'll keep my eyes open for any opportunities.

poss

Tuxedocat: That "Gallows" reef really is quite nice-- lots of tall formations with all sorts of little passages and "caves" and such. Plus, we like being out from the shore for a change. St John is so special in having the wonderful abundance of close to shore snorkeling, but it's fun to be out sometimes too. If you're at the little sitting hammock near the Gallows Point, and you look straight out, you'll see the breaking waves which'll indicate the reef I'm talking about. In some tides you'll see the top of the reef well exposed, so of course be careful when you snorkel over that shallow stuff. The reef runs a pretty good distance horizontally, so there's lots to see. It's about half way between the shore of Gallows and where the boat channel begins, so we've never felt endangered from boat traffic. Have fun!

Maggi

I did read your St. John report, to compare notes with our visit last year, but I was more interested in your comment about returning to Virgin Gorda. We will make our first visit there in May. Also noted from a different post that you have stayed in the same villa we will be in, Open Deck.

I'd love lots of details about that villa, and anything else you care to share about Mahoe Bay and VG. My email address is: [email protected]
Hope you and yours and all our Fodors friends have a lovely Christmas!

poss

Maggi: I can't imagine anyone not being wowed by that Open Deck villa. Its pool is larger than the pools in some of the larger villas, and while the furnishings aren't as "fine" as in some of the others (e.g.Bellamare and Adagio), its very nice indeed-- and spectacularly comfortable. The outdoor showers are great. The views from the villa can't be beat. (And unlike some of those other units, Open Deck isn't on the road-- so no traffic noise at all.) Beach is a few steps away and beach chairs are of course provided. There's a decent tv with a number of videos. Kitchen is good. Anything specific you want to know?
As for VG details, check my last year's posts on that and let me know if anything wants elucidation. Glad to try to help.

ScottB

brenandg,

Yes, we met some folks from the other forum in Charlotte before flying to STT.

Then Sunday, we hung out with at least 10 other forum folks. Wish you could of been there....it was a great crowd.

grismo

When talking about where to snorkel--right side/left side is mentioned. I'm assuming right and left from the perspective of standing on the beach? Is that correct? Thanks.

poss

Correct: standing on the beach, facing the water.