Poss's Rockies trip: treks, etc Part 5: Lake Louise area
Sep 19th, 2006, 10:36 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Poss's Rockies trip: treks, etc Part 5: Lake Louise area
Moraine Lake! A beauty to behold, surely one of the most lovely places in all the Rockies. Our weather again was deliciously warm (dry-warm, not wet-warm like our Chesapeake weather), with a sweetly caressing breeze. Our old friend wafting up from Washington was still along for the ride. I wondered whether we'd really be able to see much of what Lake Moraine was all "about." Oh, yes indeed!
We got to the parking lot around 9-ish, and it was already fairly busy. Strolled over to the lakefront and gasped at the gorgeousness before us. The color was absolutely magnificent, and I found myself wondering (this was something I wondered a lot over the days) whether/how it could possibly be even more beautiful than what we were seeing, i.e. if seen beneath a truly blue sky (which, again, it actually was, if not for the smoke. And I should make clear here-- probably should have made this clear long before this-- that we did NOT feel the smoke in our eyes, nose, etc. We absolutely did see it thick in the air, but it did not bother us in any more immediate way. Also, what we were seeing didn't really look like smoke-- more just a white/hazy film over things that weren't up close. And definitely never saw really blue sky.)
We climbed the rock pile (so fun to be doing this thing that I'd been reading abt for so many months) and were pleased that there weren't tons of people. Again, we found that most folks were considerate of others, spoke in low tones, etc. Even most groups behaved themselves pretty well. When we got to the top (10 min or so of gentle ascent over not-difficult path), I plopped myself down and thought wild horses couldn't ever get me to leave. (I should mention here that we didn't see a whole lot of wild life on this trip. We're more flora-- and geography/topography-- people than fauna people, so that absence wasn't the disappointment that it might have been to other folks. We saw some herds of mountain goats, some mule deer, a couple of elk, the ubiquitous chipmunks/squirrels (never did quite learn the difference). Was surprised/sorry at the lack of birds singing us along on our hikes. Was not sorry we had no bear encounters. In fact, a bear had been spotted several times around Bear Lake at Sunshine Meadows during that period. I do wish for my husband's sake that we could have brought the spray back as a souvenir. He got a kick out of carrying it.)
Moraine Lake! Sitting there in more or less silence, watching the shadows and colors slowly change, waiting for the sun to come up over the ridge-- that was as serene and precious a moment as any human being has a right to have on this earth. I still don't understand how the colors can be so very very vivid even without sunlight or blue sky. It's also lovely to see how different the colors are in different parts of the lake. I loved best, I think, that little piece on the very left-- seemed the most intense, deepest blue (turquoise) We sat there, mesmerized, for an hour or so, sighing at the lake, gazing at the beautiful jagged peaks in the distance, and then hauled ourselves back down so that we could stroll the perimeter a bit. That little lake shore stroll through the woods is quite pretty, and it's nice to see people canoeing on that remarkable water. Before returning to the car, there was no way I wasn't going to dash up the rock pile for another overlook. I did promise dh that I wouldn't linger, and he promised me that we'd make a return visit a high priority on our way back to Calgary at the end of the trip. (accomplished!)
On the way back to LL, we stopped at the village to mail some postcards and stopped at Post Hotel for lunch (already mentioned) to rest the legs. A fine place, indeed.
Our hope for the rest of the day was to do the Plain of Six Glaciers trail and end at the tea-house. Every part of that walk is wonderful. What we especially liked abt it was that it kept changing, including the color of the water from diff perspectives (that wonderful rock flour). A bit of the path is a little rough and steepish, but not overly so (at least not in our dry conditions), and those pinkish quartz formations along the way are beautiful. We loved the part after you ascend a bit, through handsome trees and rocks, and begin more and more to see the moraines and glaciers (and we heard the enormous crash of one-- very cool) (tho not at all cool as a reminder of global warming...) Guide-books had said that this walk was moderate (agree) and that it takes abt 11/2-2hrs each way. By the time we walked (gently, never pushing) abt an hour and a half, we were pretty pooped (I still was not sleeping more than a few hrs a night, and dh, while a healthy 76 is, still, 76). We asked several people coming back down how far the teahouse was, and they said abt 20 min. We realized that'd probably add another hour to our walk, so, sad as it made us, we thought the prudent thing for us was to turn around at that point. So near and yet so far! Of course we were sorry not to have gotten all the way to the teahouse (much less that extra half hour or so to the real end of the trail), but it wouldn't have been smart of us to push things. In fact, we were really beat by the end of the afternoon-- in a happy, comfortable way though. We know that maybe if we hadn't walked the Lake Moraine trail earlier in the day (ha, ha-- no way!), we might have pushed on to the teahouse. But the day was perfect. (We never did get to do the little walk on the other side of Lake Louise.)
Next up: Icefields and then Jasper
We got to the parking lot around 9-ish, and it was already fairly busy. Strolled over to the lakefront and gasped at the gorgeousness before us. The color was absolutely magnificent, and I found myself wondering (this was something I wondered a lot over the days) whether/how it could possibly be even more beautiful than what we were seeing, i.e. if seen beneath a truly blue sky (which, again, it actually was, if not for the smoke. And I should make clear here-- probably should have made this clear long before this-- that we did NOT feel the smoke in our eyes, nose, etc. We absolutely did see it thick in the air, but it did not bother us in any more immediate way. Also, what we were seeing didn't really look like smoke-- more just a white/hazy film over things that weren't up close. And definitely never saw really blue sky.)
We climbed the rock pile (so fun to be doing this thing that I'd been reading abt for so many months) and were pleased that there weren't tons of people. Again, we found that most folks were considerate of others, spoke in low tones, etc. Even most groups behaved themselves pretty well. When we got to the top (10 min or so of gentle ascent over not-difficult path), I plopped myself down and thought wild horses couldn't ever get me to leave. (I should mention here that we didn't see a whole lot of wild life on this trip. We're more flora-- and geography/topography-- people than fauna people, so that absence wasn't the disappointment that it might have been to other folks. We saw some herds of mountain goats, some mule deer, a couple of elk, the ubiquitous chipmunks/squirrels (never did quite learn the difference). Was surprised/sorry at the lack of birds singing us along on our hikes. Was not sorry we had no bear encounters. In fact, a bear had been spotted several times around Bear Lake at Sunshine Meadows during that period. I do wish for my husband's sake that we could have brought the spray back as a souvenir. He got a kick out of carrying it.)
Moraine Lake! Sitting there in more or less silence, watching the shadows and colors slowly change, waiting for the sun to come up over the ridge-- that was as serene and precious a moment as any human being has a right to have on this earth. I still don't understand how the colors can be so very very vivid even without sunlight or blue sky. It's also lovely to see how different the colors are in different parts of the lake. I loved best, I think, that little piece on the very left-- seemed the most intense, deepest blue (turquoise) We sat there, mesmerized, for an hour or so, sighing at the lake, gazing at the beautiful jagged peaks in the distance, and then hauled ourselves back down so that we could stroll the perimeter a bit. That little lake shore stroll through the woods is quite pretty, and it's nice to see people canoeing on that remarkable water. Before returning to the car, there was no way I wasn't going to dash up the rock pile for another overlook. I did promise dh that I wouldn't linger, and he promised me that we'd make a return visit a high priority on our way back to Calgary at the end of the trip. (accomplished!)
On the way back to LL, we stopped at the village to mail some postcards and stopped at Post Hotel for lunch (already mentioned) to rest the legs. A fine place, indeed.
Our hope for the rest of the day was to do the Plain of Six Glaciers trail and end at the tea-house. Every part of that walk is wonderful. What we especially liked abt it was that it kept changing, including the color of the water from diff perspectives (that wonderful rock flour). A bit of the path is a little rough and steepish, but not overly so (at least not in our dry conditions), and those pinkish quartz formations along the way are beautiful. We loved the part after you ascend a bit, through handsome trees and rocks, and begin more and more to see the moraines and glaciers (and we heard the enormous crash of one-- very cool) (tho not at all cool as a reminder of global warming...) Guide-books had said that this walk was moderate (agree) and that it takes abt 11/2-2hrs each way. By the time we walked (gently, never pushing) abt an hour and a half, we were pretty pooped (I still was not sleeping more than a few hrs a night, and dh, while a healthy 76 is, still, 76). We asked several people coming back down how far the teahouse was, and they said abt 20 min. We realized that'd probably add another hour to our walk, so, sad as it made us, we thought the prudent thing for us was to turn around at that point. So near and yet so far! Of course we were sorry not to have gotten all the way to the teahouse (much less that extra half hour or so to the real end of the trail), but it wouldn't have been smart of us to push things. In fact, we were really beat by the end of the afternoon-- in a happy, comfortable way though. We know that maybe if we hadn't walked the Lake Moraine trail earlier in the day (ha, ha-- no way!), we might have pushed on to the teahouse. But the day was perfect. (We never did get to do the little walk on the other side of Lake Louise.)
Next up: Icefields and then Jasper
Sep 19th, 2006, 12:09 PM
#2
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,501
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I am soooooo glad you went to Moraine Lake, poss. You'd be surprised how many people visit the Canadian Rockies without going there. I sometimes see the omission on trip reports on the travel discussion boards. Of the places that can be seen without a hike, a bus reservation or some other special effort, I think Moraine Lake is one of the prettiest spots in the Canadian Rockies. I am always thrilled when a traveler who otherwise might have missed Moraine Lake is persuaded to visit it because of the information that posters provide on the travel discussion forums. I'm not saying you would have fallen into that category, because I know you read several guidebooks in addition to scouring Fodor's Talk before your departure. I don't think there ever was a danger of your missing Moraine Lake. 
Sep 19th, 2006, 03:39 PM
#3
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 72
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What a great report, thanks for posting it.
I live in the Crowsnest Pass in the Rockies and I always enjoy hearing about reports of hiking in the Rockies, I think that we are the undiscovered hiking area of the Rockies but we do not have Moraine Lake.
I live in the Crowsnest Pass in the Rockies and I always enjoy hearing about reports of hiking in the Rockies, I think that we are the undiscovered hiking area of the Rockies but we do not have Moraine Lake.
Sep 19th, 2006, 05:55 PM
#4
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Poss, Thank you for this detailed report, and all your others. I am in the early stages of planning our summer 2007 trip, and your description of the Moraine Lake area is very helpful. I have been trying to get a handle on the "real" timing for the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail...was wondering if it might be a better choice to take the horseback ride if the hike seemed a bit too much. It sounds like this might be a good idea after all.
What a fantastic description of Moraine Lake! Actually, one of the reasons we decided to go to the Rockies was because of a picture I spotted of Moraine Lake...I told my husband we had to find out where that lake was!
Looking forward to Icefields and Jasper, keep the reports coming!
What a fantastic description of Moraine Lake! Actually, one of the reasons we decided to go to the Rockies was because of a picture I spotted of Moraine Lake...I told my husband we had to find out where that lake was!
Looking forward to Icefields and Jasper, keep the reports coming!
Sep 20th, 2006, 05:23 AM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tasha: I, too, had seen pictures of the various lakes-- Moraine, Louise, Peyto, etc, and thought surely they're "improved," somehow; surely they're not really THOSE colors, surely the surroundings aren't really THAT handsome. But they really are that beautiful (and, as I've said, we saw them under not-blue skies).
I believe I read on a post a couple of months ago a report abt someone doing the horse ride up that LL trail. My memory is that he/she loved it, but was quite sore afterwards. If you're in good condition, the walk to the tea-house (but there's also that supposedly terrific extra little trail at the end-- with even better views) should take abt 2 hrs, each way. It's a wonderful hike, really various and constantly interesting. Unless you're young and in especialy fine shape, I'd suggest making that hike (if you decide not to do the horses) your full or main day's activity-- perhaps allow for 5 hrs instead of 4, stop more than we did. In other words try to not combine it with any other hiking that day if at all possible.
I believe I read on a post a couple of months ago a report abt someone doing the horse ride up that LL trail. My memory is that he/she loved it, but was quite sore afterwards. If you're in good condition, the walk to the tea-house (but there's also that supposedly terrific extra little trail at the end-- with even better views) should take abt 2 hrs, each way. It's a wonderful hike, really various and constantly interesting. Unless you're young and in especialy fine shape, I'd suggest making that hike (if you decide not to do the horses) your full or main day's activity-- perhaps allow for 5 hrs instead of 4, stop more than we did. In other words try to not combine it with any other hiking that day if at all possible.
Sep 20th, 2006, 09:09 AM
#6
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What about the rooms in Moraine Lake Lodge that have picture windows overlooking the lake!!! I would love to see one of those rooms. They appeal to me more than Chateau Lake Louise or the Post and I never hear about anyone staying there. Would love to read a review of the rooms. Perhaps there is one posted on Trip Advisor.
We too loved Moraine Lake--we saw it in the clouds while we were waiting for the skies to clear for our drive up the Icefields Parkway. We returned to hike there but there were bear warnings and we couldn't get a group together, so we will have to hike that area when we return. We hiked around the lake.
If it makes you feel any better, we visited the area in Sept. 2004, arriving Labor Day weekend and had rain every day we were there. Driving back down the Parkway, we could not even see the mountains--completely shrouded, so we have to return to hike Wilcox Pass. Despite the rain (and snow on our hike to the Plain of Six Glaciers)we still fell in love with the area.
We also enjoyed the hike to the Plain of Six Glaciers. We actually combined this hike with the hike up to the Lake Agnes Teahouse then up the the Beahives(not long but pretty steep) and then back down to the Plain of Six Glaciers. This was a wonderful day hike--we were tired that night though. It was the night we could have used the jacuzzi suite at Baker Creek.
I believe we saw horseback riders on the trail to Lake Agnes. This is a steeper trail than the Plain of Six Glaciers so if considering a ride, perhaps this would be an option. Lake Agnes is beautiful and it is such a great reward to find such a spectacular sight up there in the mountains. I also enjoyed talking to some of the young adults who spend the summer living and working at Lake Agnes-no electricity, rustic cabins, outhouses--no road up there, just the trail.
We too loved Moraine Lake--we saw it in the clouds while we were waiting for the skies to clear for our drive up the Icefields Parkway. We returned to hike there but there were bear warnings and we couldn't get a group together, so we will have to hike that area when we return. We hiked around the lake.
If it makes you feel any better, we visited the area in Sept. 2004, arriving Labor Day weekend and had rain every day we were there. Driving back down the Parkway, we could not even see the mountains--completely shrouded, so we have to return to hike Wilcox Pass. Despite the rain (and snow on our hike to the Plain of Six Glaciers)we still fell in love with the area.
We also enjoyed the hike to the Plain of Six Glaciers. We actually combined this hike with the hike up to the Lake Agnes Teahouse then up the the Beahives(not long but pretty steep) and then back down to the Plain of Six Glaciers. This was a wonderful day hike--we were tired that night though. It was the night we could have used the jacuzzi suite at Baker Creek.
I believe we saw horseback riders on the trail to Lake Agnes. This is a steeper trail than the Plain of Six Glaciers so if considering a ride, perhaps this would be an option. Lake Agnes is beautiful and it is such a great reward to find such a spectacular sight up there in the mountains. I also enjoyed talking to some of the young adults who spend the summer living and working at Lake Agnes-no electricity, rustic cabins, outhouses--no road up there, just the trail.
Sep 20th, 2006, 12:04 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Linda: I'd inquired abt the Moraine Lodge (since I kept hearing how beautiful the Lake was), and the feedback I got was that it was much less nice than Emerald Lake Lodge. So I just didn't bother with it (where we stay matters-- we like great rooms insofar as possible). I almost asked to see a room while we were there, but I realized (sadly!) that it was highly unlikely we'd be back, so I chose to use the time for hiking instead. The longer hikes at Moraine were closed cause of bears when we were there also, by the way. We did, tho, enjoy the pretty stroll around the lake. (Our hiking is obviously in a diff league from yours.)
I'm glad you're at the age/stage that you can assume you'll be back to that wonderful area. Savor it!
I'm glad you're at the age/stage that you can assume you'll be back to that wonderful area. Savor it!
