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Help for 1st Trip to Nova Scotia

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Old May 7th, 2005 | 06:45 PM
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Help for 1st Trip to Nova Scotia

My father is elderly and has always wanted to see Nova Scotia My husband and I plan to drive him there this summer from Kentucky. We plan to take the CAT from Portland. My father loves beautiful scenery and doesn't have alot of energy for hiking. He will want to see as much beautiful scenery from the car as possible. Could you please suggest a week long itinerary to see beautiful driving scenery? Of course we are interested in not fancy restaurants but wonderful food and clean accommodations with nice views.
ginn is offline  
Old May 8th, 2005 | 01:15 PM
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First, the CAT goes from Bar Harbor, not Portland. The overnight ferry from Portland has been discontinued.

Do you have a week in NS? Or a week from KY to NS and back? That's a big difference.

Anyways, the whole province is beautiful, but if you have time, don't miss driving the Cabot Trail on the northern tip of Cape Breton Island.
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Old May 8th, 2005 | 07:00 PM
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Thank you for the reply. We should have one week in N.S.
ginn is offline  
Old May 10th, 2005 | 09:28 PM
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Hi, I really want to give you the sense that your efforts in taking your father to Nova Scotia ARE going to bring just the visual experience that he's going to enjoy!

I'm excited just thinking about your father's sentiments in finally going to Nova Scotia.

I've never taken the ferry there, but if I were you I'd drive up and around instead... cross into Canada through Calais and along to St. John, NB... then be sure to see the "Flower Pot Rocks" (Hopewell Cape)... if he can handle a long stairway then he should go down to the ocean floor there near low tide. Take pictures, make memories.

Then on up to Moncton... stop and see the "Tidal Bore" (watching the river go UPstream with the incoming tide at "Tidal Bore Park" there, as you sit on bleachers by the river bank). I know, I know, you can't believe how odd and worth seeing it would be until you're there.

Then onward through Sackville/Amherst, NS... I'd go due south to Parrsboro and drive along the shore to Truro... then into Halifax.

At some point you'll go and have a meal at Peggy's Cove, and I hope the weather is either sunny and clear, or eerily stormy as you dine near the famous lighthouse there.

With a week in the province you're sure to want to cover both ends, but I think the far north is most scenic, but with so much ocean-front driving you can't go wrong with an elderly father who just wants to SEE it (mostly from the comfort of a car).

I suppose that you should see the southern end of NS in a day-long driving loop.

It is 220 miles from Halifax to Yarmouth and no doubt a bit more around the eastern loop on the way back.

If you do want to split that into two days, then be aware that some like to stay at Annapolis Royal.

The highest tides in the world happen in the Minas Basin, and if I were you I would be sure to get yourself a full exposure to that area.

Decent viewing from above can be found on the path out toward Blomidon and Scott's Bay. (I won't send you on the hike at the end, because of what you've stated) Just know that, on a normal day, as much water flows between Parrsboro on the north shore and Cape Split/Scott's Bay as flows through ALL of the rivers on earth COMBINED... hence the resulting high tides.

On the earlier trip from Parrsboro toward Truro you should have opportunity to show your father the phenomenon that is ocean-going vessels docked and sitting ON THE OCEAN FLOOR at low tide, and then, 6 hours later, they're back up high in the water as you'd expect. (clearly if you can only time your drive there at one point, low tide is most emphatic) (the surf will be WAY out there beyond the boat sitting on the ocean floor)

In Halifax, I'd totally recommend taking a round-trip on the passenger only ferry that goes across to Dartmouth. No need to get off the boat in Dartmouth, just the views of Halifax are enjoyable.

When you drive up north, I suspect that at least one night, and perhaps two, would be sensible. The FOG in NS can be worse than you've ever seen elsewhere, so it isn't a bad idea to have a whole day penciled in with NOTHING in your plans, so in case fog stops you cold.

So maybe leave Halifax at early/mid morning... drive up the Atlantic Coast for as long as you can enjoy it.

Liscomb-Melrose-Lochaber is probably a good point to cut over. (if you don't, there's a dumb once-an-hour ferryboat that you have to take at Isaacs Harbor)

Plan to stay at least one night somewhere within the Sydney/North Sydney area, and then set out fresh in the morning for a circuit of Cape Breton (Cabot Trail). Stunning scenery there and occasionally some cute-sy eateries that might serve to break up the driving.

NS has so many alternatives for ocean-front drives that using your instinct will prove to offer plenty of scenery for you and your father.

The province is compact enough so that you can get your fill in a week or so.

Your father will observe that NS is fairly well preserved for it not being on the way to anywhere else. (excepting the Newfoundland ferry) It isn't overrun by society.

Halifax is just big enough to have conveniences of larger cities but small enough to have a remarkable charm to it.

Tell your husband that someone here really thought highly of your trip to NS with your father, and that it should serve to impact him in just the way you are inspired to want to.

I remember the moment I drove up to the "Entering Nova Scotia" sign for the first time ever. I had to stop and take a picture.

And my reason for all of the sentiment was that I had always wanted to go there, ever since reading as a child about the world's highest tides.

It really is a great idea!

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Old May 11th, 2005 | 05:51 AM
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From Halifax to Cape Breton take the wonderful Marine Drive. Stop for the night at Seawinds Landing. Great food, beautiful setting!
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Old May 11th, 2005 | 06:39 PM
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Thank you Northwestmale and Karen for the information. If you think of anything else just pass it along. You folks have been very helpful.
ginn is offline  
Old May 11th, 2005 | 08:47 PM
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Fort Louisburg (Cape Breton) is a great place to visit. It's a re-creation of an 18th century fishing village and fort, with authentic buildings and people in period costumes. We loved it. We haven't been there for a while, so I can't recommend accomodations, but if you're interested in history - it's well worth the trip.
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Old May 13th, 2005 | 12:40 AM
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You have two choices when departing the CAT in Yarmouth:
Travel the South Shore through Shelburne, Liverpool, Bridgewater, Lunenburg, Mahone Bay, Chester, Peggy's Cove and into Halifax. Can be done in one day -about a 3 hour drive direct on the Trans Canada Highway (but no scenery) or leisurely taking the back roads and stopping. You might want to make Lunenburg a stopping point for the night. The next day will take you to Peggy's Cove and then into Halifax for a night. The third day I would travel towards Cape Breton (about 3 hours) and you could start the Trail heading towards Cheticamp. Spend the night there or travel through to the Keltic Lodge and spend a night there. The next day you can continue your trip around the Trail, stop into Baddeck for lunch and if you want spend another night. I agree with the previous post Louisbourg is a wonderful spot, but lots of walking required and about 1.5 hours from Baddeck. That leaves about 3 days to travel back to the CAT. If leaving Baddeck, you could spend one day in Pictou and go back through the Annapolis Valley (Wolfville, Digby, etc.) and then into Yarmouth for your departure.

Another suggestion would be from Pictou to head up the Sunrise Trail towards Amherst and the New Brunswick border and drive through to the US. Or do the Parrsboro route which is quite beautiful as well. There are so many different landscapes in Nova Scotia - however, Cape Breton is one that shouldn't be missed.
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Old May 14th, 2005 | 03:58 PM
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Hi ginn! You've received so much great advice here that there's not much more to say. I just wanted to make some suggestions re: Cape Breton.

One of the things that makes this place so special is the culture. You mention that your dad doesn't have a lot of energy for hiking, but there are still plenty of things for him to do while here (besides just driving)! I strongly suggest doing a whale watching tour somewhere around Pleasant Bay - the view of the coast from the boat is a nice change from on land. I also *very* strongly suggest that you take in some local traditional music and perhaps a ceilidh. Does your dad like whisky? Stop in for a dram at the only single malt distillery in North America. I agree with NorthWest Male's suggestion that you give yourself 2 days for CB - if one is incliment, then you have a back up day. And if both are nice then there's no shortage of things to see and do! See www.getgoingcanada.com and look for the section on Cape Breton (under 15 Great Trips) - it gives a good description and some good ideas. I'd guess you've likely already had a look at www.novascotia.com
As for food, if you'd like to try some of the freshest seafood in the most basic of "restaurants", try the Chowder House in Neil's Harbour. It's a tiny little "hut" right on the docks in a little fishing village. Their whole clams are fabulous!

Tanya's suggested itinerary sounds good. While in Cape Breton I would suggest breaking the Cabot Trail up into 2 day trips, with side trips off the trail into other interesting/scenic areas such as Meat Cove, Mabou and the Margaree River Valley.

If you let us know even more about what might interest your dad, I can give you more specific sugestions! Hope your trip planning is coming along well!

ScotiaGirl is offline  
Old May 15th, 2005 | 01:45 AM
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The previous post is absolutely correct about the Chowder House. For music, there are several travelling ceildhs that move from town to town during the week. If in Cheticamp on a Saturday and you don't mind sitting shoulder to shoulder with the locals, stop into the tavern for some local culture and great fiddle music. As well, the Red Shoe Inn in Mabou (or Margaree?) has reopened under the ownership of the Rankin sisters who are well known musicians! Also in Baddeck if you just want a place to have a cold drink and watch the lakefront (always lots of activity), the marina is open to visitors.
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Old May 15th, 2005 | 06:54 AM
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The Red Shoe Pub is in Mabou! Definitely should be a stop in your travels!
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Old May 15th, 2005 | 04:41 PM
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Many thanks to all you folks that have given such exciting tips. Any suggestions about places to bed down? My husband and I love B and B's or inns with geat views but dad is just a basic fellow - nothing fancy or expensive. He is just looking for clean accommodations. If we could strike a balance that would be good. Nothing over $100.00 a night if possible.
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Old May 15th, 2005 | 08:08 PM
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You can find a B&B on almost every corner! I would strongly suggest you check out NovaScotia.Com and order their travel guide. It used to be called the "Doers and Dreamers Guide" but they may have changed the name in the past couple of years. I've done some traveling in the US, Canada & Europe and have yet to run across anything even remotely as well designed for the tourist. The Province is divided into sections in the guide and each section details wonderful trips as well as dining and accomodations. It was more valuable for great information than my Fodor's!

The only trouble we had when we were there was that I didn't allow enough travel time. In my part of the country if you want to go 250 miles it will take you 5 hours. Period. You will always average 50 mph. In NS all of the roads are scenic and the majority of them take you in and out of every town and cove along the coast. It was lovely, but wreaked havoc with my schedule! I kept having to call the B&B we were scheduled at for the each evening and apologize for having to arrive late because 250 miles in NS can take MUCH more than 5 hours!

But worth every single mile and every single minute. We're going again in August and I can hardly wait!

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Old May 16th, 2005 | 01:40 PM
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Marine Drive (I saw TWENTY rainbows in a 2 hour period).
Cabot Trail - wonderful scenery
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Old May 18th, 2005 | 08:17 AM
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If you want to stay in the Pictou area, a few B&B's to check out with great host(ess).

The Consulate Inn - directly on the Pictou Harbour with walking trails along the waterfront www.consulateinn.com

Across the street is the Willow House Inn. www.willowhouseinn.com

Also the Evening Sail B&B. www.eveningsail.ca

You must make a visit to Carvers - a coffee shop/pub/carving studio. Check it out at www.carvers.ca And for tea, visit Mrs. MacGregors Tea Room on the front street. The deCoste centre which is located on the water may have evening performances for some great music.

In New Glasgow there is a great little restaurant on the main st called Cafe Italia - good prices - great cheesecakes. If you want a bit of Ireland, drop into the Dock at the bridge for some atmosphere and great hospitality.

If driving through from Halifax to Cape Breton and you want to stop for a bite to eat in Antigonish, I would recommend either the Tall and Small Cafe or the Sunshine on Main. For something more upscale, Gabrieau's offers wonderful delights!

Once you have your itinerary mapped, perhaps we can narrow it down more for you.


Tanya is offline  
Old May 30th, 2005 | 08:15 AM
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Your feedback has been extremely helpful to me as well, as I'm planning a first time 1-week trip to Nova Scotia and didn't know where to start! What interested me, though, was someone told me about a wonderful fall festival, I think around St. Ann's. Does anyone know what this might be? I saw their pictures, but unfortunately am no longer in touch with that person. Thank you.
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Old May 30th, 2005 | 06:03 PM
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afloater, your "someone" was probably referring to Celtic Colours in Cape Breton, held during the Thanksgiving week. With St. Ann's being the Gaelic College there is a lot of activity there, but the festival is all over the island.

There's a recent thread on it here, so check that out.

It is a GREAT time. The guy sitting next to me at one of the performances told me he takes the whole week off and comes up from Boston every year for it!

It's Celtic music and it has all types (haunting, folk, alternative, world, etc.) Check out their website.
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