Trip Report
Oct 10th, 2005 | 01:57 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Trip Report
Just returned from two weeks in Australia. Since this web site provided such valuable advice, I thought I would share my experiences for future travelers. We really tried to avoid spending too much time in cities since we live in a big city in the U.S.
Sydney (2 nights):
Our entire time in Sydney was rainy and overcast. We were disappointed, but the locals were thrilled, because of an on-going drought. So, I guess there was a silver lining!
We stayed at the Sydney Harbour Bed and Breakfast for two nights. This is located in the Rocks district, right next to the Shangri-La (where we actually stayed at the end of our trip). This B&B is in a great location. The room was very spacious and clean, and the bed was VERY comfortable, which we appreciated after the long flight from Los Angeles. We also really appreciated having a full cooked breakfast included in the price and really enjoyed talking to other guests in the morning. The hosts, Jeff and Bridget are very welcoming and helpful. The only downside to our stay was our private bath was across the hall to our room, not actually in the room. Some rooms have them actually en suite. Also, be sure to ask for a room in the back of the building, since it is near the on-ramp to the Harbour Bridge. We would recommend this B&B.
We spent the rainy day walking around Sydney trying to stay dry. We went to the aquarium. Although this was nice, I would skip it if you plan on visiting the Great Barrier Reef.
We ate at the Australian Hotel (also on Cumberland St.). This is a great pub, with surprisingly gourmet fair. Try their pizzas. You can sit outside and watch the games going on in the gym across the street. We were mystified by a game of co-ed net ball!
Mossman (4 nights)
Next, we flew to Cairns, rented a car and drove to The Silky Oaks Resort in Mossman. Once we (or I should say my husband) mastered driving on the left side, it was a very pleasant hour and half up the coast to Mossman.
Silky Oaks was a really neat place and unlike any other hotel I’ve stayed in. Our cabin was spotless, good sized, with a spacious dressing area. One bit of advice – you do have to have an appreciation for nature. Our cabin was pretty far from the main lodge, which involved walking on paved paths through the rainforest. At night, when most of the animals are out and about, you do come across various small mammals. At first, this was a little unsettling, but then you start getting really into spotting different animals. We did not see any snakes – although when we checked in the manager told us we were in a great cabin, because once a python had curled up right by the porch for a few days to the delight of the guests! I was not too thrilled with that story.
We enjoyed the rest of the grounds – canoeing and wading in the Mossman river, swimming in the salt-water swimming pool, tennis and lots of scrabble. The main lodge is very peaceful and Swiss Family Robinson-esque.
Day 1-- Reef tour with Wavelength – Thanks to the advice on this forum, we booked a day trip with Wavelength and were not disappointed. The staff was very helpful and informative and we felt we covered a lot in one day. The highlight was a sea turtle spotting.
Day 2 -- We took a tour with AWE (part of Silky Oaks I think) that was included in our resort package. We drove up to the Daintree forest and went for a guided walk, then off to Cape Tribulation for a stroll on the beach, a nice grilled fish lunch in the bush, and finally a Daintree River cruise for crocodile spotting. Our guide was great and I would recommend the experience. It is a nice ,easy, and comprehensive way to see the area.
Day 3 -- Drove into Port Douglas (25 minutes), had lunch, went to the beach. Port Douglas was nice, but I am glad we decided to stay out in Mossman. It was school break, so the place was crawling with kids. I love kids, but we came to relax. Maybe with a family, staying in Port Douglas would be the way to go though. We did swim in the ocean and didn’t see any signs regarding box jelly fish. I have no idea how they know when they arrive, but figured if all those Moms let their kids play in the ocean, we were pretty safe.
Adelaide (3 nights non-consecutively)
We next flew to Adelaide via Sydney. The only “bad” part of our trip happened on this journey when Quantas lost our luggage. I’ve had this happen a couple of times before with different airlines and it is usually a minor inconvenience. This gave us quite a scare however since we were departing for Kangaroo Island the next morning and Quantas could not tell us anything about where the luggage was and when it might arrive. Quantas came through and our bags met us at the airport in KI soon after we arrived. So we spent one night using the Quantas “survival” packs.
We used Adelaide as a home base for two side trips – one to Kangaroo Island and one to the Flinders Ranges. All three non-consecutive nights we spent in Adelaide we stayed at the North Adelaide Heritage properties (two nights at the Cafe Suite and one night at Paprika Cottage). The positives: very unique properties with interesting antiques, great bathtubs, kitchens. The only negative was that there is no actual hotel person on-site to ask questions too, but someone from the company was always reachable by phone and they were very helpful. If you are someone who loves modern hotels, these are not the places for you; however, we loved them. I just wish we had more time to enjoy them.
Kangaroo Island (1 night)
There is a lot of debate about whether or not KI is worth the trip. For what it is worth, we really loved our experiences there. Because it is an island, all of the animals are more easily located than on the mainland and the rock formations are really “remarkable.” We just found it fascinating.
We did a two day tour with Adventure Charters which included flights to and from the island. If you have the money, the flight is the way to go. It is 20 minutes versus the 4 hours plus it would take to catch the ferry. I didn’t really appreciate how large the island was before arriving.
Adventure Charters was a wonderful company and we thoroughly enjoyed our time with them. If you can only do one day, do a Flinders Chase trip as that was the better of the two days. The guides were really well informed and very professional. The food was amazing and incorporated lots of local foods. The whole experience was really first rate.
On KI, we stayed at Stranraer Homestead. This was the only night we did not arrange ourselves. It was either arranged by the travel agent who booked our KI trip or Adventure Charters themselves. This was our favorite accommodation on our entire trip and I can’t say enough good things about the place. Mind you, I wouldn’t want to stay for weeks, but a few nights would be heaven. The homestead is actually a working sheep farm, but the sheep are merely part of the scenery (and maybe the menu). The absolute best part was the food – Lynn, co-owner with her husband, is an amazing cook. For dinner and breakfast the next morning, it was just us and one other couple and we ate like kings. Our tour guides all told us that she is renown on the island for her cooking and the reputation is well deserved. I think my favorite part was the sticky date pudding and toffee sauce ...
And we saw all the requisite animals: kangaroos, wallabies, seal lions, seals, echidnas, koalas, lizards, etc.
Flinders Ranges/Barossa (2 nights)
The Flinders Ranges appears to be an overlooked destination for lots of tourists, but whenever we mentioned to an Australian that we were going there, their eyes lit up. Wilpena Pound seems to be a favorite spot for lots of South Australians. We chose to do this trip because we wanted to experience a little of the Outback (we’re not sure if it counts, but it was fun nonetheless). I felt this trip gave us the opportunity to see an entirely different (and drier) side of Australia and was more what we had expected from watching movies.
We drove from Adelaide to Parachilna. Total travel time was a little under 5 hours, with stops. We stayed at the Prairie Hotel for three nights. The Prairie Hotel is famous for its feral food (kangaroo, emu and camel) and we did sample everything. I would recommend the kangaroo fillet and quandong ice cream. The hotel is basically in the middle of no where and serves as a stop for many passing through. Our rooms were very adequate and probably the nicest in the area. The hotel has undergone some expansion and we were really impressed with all of the environmental friendly design features.
During our only full day in the Flinders we went for a short helicopter ride to view the area from the air, and then went on a four wheel drive private tour through the gorges. The scenery was stunning. If given the opportunity to go again, I would definitely rent a 4WD vehicle so that you can explore the region fully on your own. Many of the roads are unsealed and not really suited for a regular car, especially after it rains.
Sadly, we never got to hike up to Wilpena Pound for various reasons involving weather, time of day, etc. This is something I really regret, but it was out of our hands.
On the way back to Adelaide, we detoured through the Barossa Valley. This was easier than I thought, and a visit to any of the wine regions could easily be coupled with a trip to the Flinders. We had never been to a winery and were pleasantly surprised by the experience. Free wine! I would go back to Barossa in a heartbeat as there were 57 plus wineries we didn’t get to see.
Sydney (1 night)
On our return to Sydney, we stayed at the Shangri-La. I wanted to stay in a room with a view for our last night. The hotel was very nice and had all the usual luxury amenities. I guess after staying at such fabulous smaller hotels throughout our trip, we felt it was a little impersonal, but really no complaints.
We did have a memorable last night dinner at Fish on the Rocks. Have a drink at the Lord Nelson pub first and then have a wonderful (and fairly reasonably priced dinner for the neighborhood) dinner.
We had a fantastic time in Australia and are already talking about where we would go next time (e.g. Tasmania, Kimberlys). Hope this really long post helps all future travelers.
Sydney (2 nights):
Our entire time in Sydney was rainy and overcast. We were disappointed, but the locals were thrilled, because of an on-going drought. So, I guess there was a silver lining!
We stayed at the Sydney Harbour Bed and Breakfast for two nights. This is located in the Rocks district, right next to the Shangri-La (where we actually stayed at the end of our trip). This B&B is in a great location. The room was very spacious and clean, and the bed was VERY comfortable, which we appreciated after the long flight from Los Angeles. We also really appreciated having a full cooked breakfast included in the price and really enjoyed talking to other guests in the morning. The hosts, Jeff and Bridget are very welcoming and helpful. The only downside to our stay was our private bath was across the hall to our room, not actually in the room. Some rooms have them actually en suite. Also, be sure to ask for a room in the back of the building, since it is near the on-ramp to the Harbour Bridge. We would recommend this B&B.
We spent the rainy day walking around Sydney trying to stay dry. We went to the aquarium. Although this was nice, I would skip it if you plan on visiting the Great Barrier Reef.
We ate at the Australian Hotel (also on Cumberland St.). This is a great pub, with surprisingly gourmet fair. Try their pizzas. You can sit outside and watch the games going on in the gym across the street. We were mystified by a game of co-ed net ball!
Mossman (4 nights)
Next, we flew to Cairns, rented a car and drove to The Silky Oaks Resort in Mossman. Once we (or I should say my husband) mastered driving on the left side, it was a very pleasant hour and half up the coast to Mossman.
Silky Oaks was a really neat place and unlike any other hotel I’ve stayed in. Our cabin was spotless, good sized, with a spacious dressing area. One bit of advice – you do have to have an appreciation for nature. Our cabin was pretty far from the main lodge, which involved walking on paved paths through the rainforest. At night, when most of the animals are out and about, you do come across various small mammals. At first, this was a little unsettling, but then you start getting really into spotting different animals. We did not see any snakes – although when we checked in the manager told us we were in a great cabin, because once a python had curled up right by the porch for a few days to the delight of the guests! I was not too thrilled with that story.
We enjoyed the rest of the grounds – canoeing and wading in the Mossman river, swimming in the salt-water swimming pool, tennis and lots of scrabble. The main lodge is very peaceful and Swiss Family Robinson-esque.
Day 1-- Reef tour with Wavelength – Thanks to the advice on this forum, we booked a day trip with Wavelength and were not disappointed. The staff was very helpful and informative and we felt we covered a lot in one day. The highlight was a sea turtle spotting.
Day 2 -- We took a tour with AWE (part of Silky Oaks I think) that was included in our resort package. We drove up to the Daintree forest and went for a guided walk, then off to Cape Tribulation for a stroll on the beach, a nice grilled fish lunch in the bush, and finally a Daintree River cruise for crocodile spotting. Our guide was great and I would recommend the experience. It is a nice ,easy, and comprehensive way to see the area.
Day 3 -- Drove into Port Douglas (25 minutes), had lunch, went to the beach. Port Douglas was nice, but I am glad we decided to stay out in Mossman. It was school break, so the place was crawling with kids. I love kids, but we came to relax. Maybe with a family, staying in Port Douglas would be the way to go though. We did swim in the ocean and didn’t see any signs regarding box jelly fish. I have no idea how they know when they arrive, but figured if all those Moms let their kids play in the ocean, we were pretty safe.
Adelaide (3 nights non-consecutively)
We next flew to Adelaide via Sydney. The only “bad” part of our trip happened on this journey when Quantas lost our luggage. I’ve had this happen a couple of times before with different airlines and it is usually a minor inconvenience. This gave us quite a scare however since we were departing for Kangaroo Island the next morning and Quantas could not tell us anything about where the luggage was and when it might arrive. Quantas came through and our bags met us at the airport in KI soon after we arrived. So we spent one night using the Quantas “survival” packs.
We used Adelaide as a home base for two side trips – one to Kangaroo Island and one to the Flinders Ranges. All three non-consecutive nights we spent in Adelaide we stayed at the North Adelaide Heritage properties (two nights at the Cafe Suite and one night at Paprika Cottage). The positives: very unique properties with interesting antiques, great bathtubs, kitchens. The only negative was that there is no actual hotel person on-site to ask questions too, but someone from the company was always reachable by phone and they were very helpful. If you are someone who loves modern hotels, these are not the places for you; however, we loved them. I just wish we had more time to enjoy them.
Kangaroo Island (1 night)
There is a lot of debate about whether or not KI is worth the trip. For what it is worth, we really loved our experiences there. Because it is an island, all of the animals are more easily located than on the mainland and the rock formations are really “remarkable.” We just found it fascinating.
We did a two day tour with Adventure Charters which included flights to and from the island. If you have the money, the flight is the way to go. It is 20 minutes versus the 4 hours plus it would take to catch the ferry. I didn’t really appreciate how large the island was before arriving.
Adventure Charters was a wonderful company and we thoroughly enjoyed our time with them. If you can only do one day, do a Flinders Chase trip as that was the better of the two days. The guides were really well informed and very professional. The food was amazing and incorporated lots of local foods. The whole experience was really first rate.
On KI, we stayed at Stranraer Homestead. This was the only night we did not arrange ourselves. It was either arranged by the travel agent who booked our KI trip or Adventure Charters themselves. This was our favorite accommodation on our entire trip and I can’t say enough good things about the place. Mind you, I wouldn’t want to stay for weeks, but a few nights would be heaven. The homestead is actually a working sheep farm, but the sheep are merely part of the scenery (and maybe the menu). The absolute best part was the food – Lynn, co-owner with her husband, is an amazing cook. For dinner and breakfast the next morning, it was just us and one other couple and we ate like kings. Our tour guides all told us that she is renown on the island for her cooking and the reputation is well deserved. I think my favorite part was the sticky date pudding and toffee sauce ...
And we saw all the requisite animals: kangaroos, wallabies, seal lions, seals, echidnas, koalas, lizards, etc.
Flinders Ranges/Barossa (2 nights)
The Flinders Ranges appears to be an overlooked destination for lots of tourists, but whenever we mentioned to an Australian that we were going there, their eyes lit up. Wilpena Pound seems to be a favorite spot for lots of South Australians. We chose to do this trip because we wanted to experience a little of the Outback (we’re not sure if it counts, but it was fun nonetheless). I felt this trip gave us the opportunity to see an entirely different (and drier) side of Australia and was more what we had expected from watching movies.
We drove from Adelaide to Parachilna. Total travel time was a little under 5 hours, with stops. We stayed at the Prairie Hotel for three nights. The Prairie Hotel is famous for its feral food (kangaroo, emu and camel) and we did sample everything. I would recommend the kangaroo fillet and quandong ice cream. The hotel is basically in the middle of no where and serves as a stop for many passing through. Our rooms were very adequate and probably the nicest in the area. The hotel has undergone some expansion and we were really impressed with all of the environmental friendly design features.
During our only full day in the Flinders we went for a short helicopter ride to view the area from the air, and then went on a four wheel drive private tour through the gorges. The scenery was stunning. If given the opportunity to go again, I would definitely rent a 4WD vehicle so that you can explore the region fully on your own. Many of the roads are unsealed and not really suited for a regular car, especially after it rains.
Sadly, we never got to hike up to Wilpena Pound for various reasons involving weather, time of day, etc. This is something I really regret, but it was out of our hands.
On the way back to Adelaide, we detoured through the Barossa Valley. This was easier than I thought, and a visit to any of the wine regions could easily be coupled with a trip to the Flinders. We had never been to a winery and were pleasantly surprised by the experience. Free wine! I would go back to Barossa in a heartbeat as there were 57 plus wineries we didn’t get to see.
Sydney (1 night)
On our return to Sydney, we stayed at the Shangri-La. I wanted to stay in a room with a view for our last night. The hotel was very nice and had all the usual luxury amenities. I guess after staying at such fabulous smaller hotels throughout our trip, we felt it was a little impersonal, but really no complaints.
We did have a memorable last night dinner at Fish on the Rocks. Have a drink at the Lord Nelson pub first and then have a wonderful (and fairly reasonably priced dinner for the neighborhood) dinner.
We had a fantastic time in Australia and are already talking about where we would go next time (e.g. Tasmania, Kimberlys). Hope this really long post helps all future travelers.
Oct 11th, 2005 | 03:27 PM
#5
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Thanks for the report Windy04-- we're headed for Sydney, Adelaide and KI with Adventure Charters ourselves in 3 weeks. Happy to see that you had a wonderful experience-- we can't wait!
One question, if you don't mind, was there a place to leave your big pieces of luggage at the airport while you're at KI? If so, was it secure?
One question, if you don't mind, was there a place to leave your big pieces of luggage at the airport while you're at KI? If so, was it secure?
Oct 12th, 2005 | 10:24 AM
#7
Original Poster
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
To answer the luggage question -- we never had to leave it anywhere because this was when Quantas lost the luggage, so we ended up with everything in KI. I know that we had two options though. There are lockers (for a fee) at the airport for this sort of thing and the heritage group in Adelaide offered to keep it as well. The Adelaide airport is relatively small and well maintained. I would imagine that leaving it there would be fine.
Trending Topics
Oct 13th, 2005 | 12:06 AM
#9
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,018
Likes: 0
Hi Windy04,
Loved your JBR - thanks for putting it together. Would you mind telling us where you stayed in Mossman, and a little about it, please? I have friends going North next month and they're looking for an alternative to Port Douglas (just for a change - they usually stay in PD).
You liked the Barossa ? Just wait until you come back & see the Clare Valley ! Stay at Thorn Park and you really will think you're in heaven. (It's also just down the hill from the old Seven Hill monastery)where the Brothers will give you some of their famous wines if you're lucky
Loved your JBR - thanks for putting it together. Would you mind telling us where you stayed in Mossman, and a little about it, please? I have friends going North next month and they're looking for an alternative to Port Douglas (just for a change - they usually stay in PD).
You liked the Barossa ? Just wait until you come back & see the Clare Valley ! Stay at Thorn Park and you really will think you're in heaven. (It's also just down the hill from the old Seven Hill monastery)where the Brothers will give you some of their famous wines if you're lucky
Oct 23rd, 2005 | 12:10 PM
#10
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 177
Likes: 0
Windy04,
Great trip report. My friend and I are planning a two week trip, but haven't as yet finalized our destination, so this report was of interest to us.
Could you tell us what kind of money you had to budget for this trip, as we have no idea of what to expect?
Thanks for any assistance you can give in this matter.
Great trip report. My friend and I are planning a two week trip, but haven't as yet finalized our destination, so this report was of interest to us.
Could you tell us what kind of money you had to budget for this trip, as we have no idea of what to expect?
Thanks for any assistance you can give in this matter.
Oct 23rd, 2005 | 02:02 PM
#11
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 3,680
Likes: 0
Bokhara, just to chime in there seeing no-one's answered your question. Windy says they stayed at Silky Oaks which is just behind Mossman town (there's not much accommodation in Mossman itself, except for the White Cockatoo Motel which is a nudist resort in off season). Silky Oaks is indeed lovely but for something which is not nearly expensive have a look at nearby Marae B&B - www.marae.com.au
Mossman Gorge B&B is also popular and even less expensive than Marae - www.bnbnq.com.au/mossgorge Both B&B's have marvellous views with wildlife everywhere.
Mossman Gorge B&B is also popular and even less expensive than Marae - www.bnbnq.com.au/mossgorge Both B&B's have marvellous views with wildlife everywhere.
Oct 31st, 2005 | 04:58 PM
#13
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Windy- great report. I have a question about Kangaroo Island. My wife and I will be spending 2 weeks in Australia in January, and are looking at spending 2 days/1 night on K.I., and are also looking at Stranraer Homestead.
We've been told that it makes sense to take a tour of the island to really get to see the stuff we'd miss on our own. However, the tour prices we're getting are pretty high. Did you feel that the tour was worth the money?
The quotes we're getting are about $1,500 for 2 for the tour, B&B and 2 meals. Considering I can rent a car and get lodging on the island for about $300, the tour portion is pretty costly.
Thanks.
We've been told that it makes sense to take a tour of the island to really get to see the stuff we'd miss on our own. However, the tour prices we're getting are pretty high. Did you feel that the tour was worth the money?
The quotes we're getting are about $1,500 for 2 for the tour, B&B and 2 meals. Considering I can rent a car and get lodging on the island for about $300, the tour portion is pretty costly.
Thanks.
Oct 31st, 2005 | 06:57 PM
#15
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Dave- We're using Adventure Charters on KI next week so we've done a bit of "shopping". The deal does seems like a lot of money but it does include rt air, lodging, transportation and 5 meals (2 days/1 night) while you're there. We read a lot of different reviews on different sites/forums and travel books and every single one said the same thing--Adventure Charters/ KI was the best experience they had on their whole trip.
They must be doing something right!
We'll be back home on Nov 23 and I'll be sure to post my unbiased opinion.
They must be doing something right!
We'll be back home on Nov 23 and I'll be sure to post my unbiased opinion.
Nov 1st, 2005 | 04:50 AM
#16
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
I agree that I've read tons of good things about Adventure Tours. However, we just got a quote from them and it would be A$2,066 for 2 people for air, 1 night B&B and the tour.
I guess I'm just having a hard time paying soooo much extra for the tour portion, when I can get the air/hotel/rental car for under A$700. I know I'd miss a few things not taking the tour, but that's basically paying a tour guide $650/day for 2 people!
I guess I'm just having a hard time paying soooo much extra for the tour portion, when I can get the air/hotel/rental car for under A$700. I know I'd miss a few things not taking the tour, but that's basically paying a tour guide $650/day for 2 people!
Nov 1st, 2005 | 06:21 AM
#17
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
Thanks for sharing, Windy04.
im reading the Adelaide part as i was considering to visit it on January.
I would love to go to KI and (take a pic of Remarkable Rocks). Is it quite far from Adelaide? Is 2D/1N enough to see the whole island? Im more into seeing the unique wildlife in the island. Where is it better to stay -- Penneshaw , KingSCote or Emu Bay?
Have you visited the Migration Museum and Cleland Wildlife? How was it?
I dont know that there are so many wineries in Barossa Valley. I thought theres only few.
Is Wilpena Pound that spectacular?
im reading the Adelaide part as i was considering to visit it on January.
I would love to go to KI and (take a pic of Remarkable Rocks). Is it quite far from Adelaide? Is 2D/1N enough to see the whole island? Im more into seeing the unique wildlife in the island. Where is it better to stay -- Penneshaw , KingSCote or Emu Bay?
Have you visited the Migration Museum and Cleland Wildlife? How was it?
I dont know that there are so many wineries in Barossa Valley. I thought theres only few.
Is Wilpena Pound that spectacular?
Nov 1st, 2005 | 07:56 AM
#18
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Dave--I totally agree with your analysis. Have you considered just doing a "day-tour" with Adventure Charters, pointing out the highlights and then planning the rest yourself? I believe they offer a one-day tour that was around $230USD. If you go this route, you wouldn't need a car for that day. Just a thought--
Nov 1st, 2005 | 10:50 AM
#19
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9,922
Likes: 0
Check this site for a listing of SA wineries: www.wilmap.com.au/samaps/sawine.html
Assuming that list is correct there are 38 wineries in the Barossa Valley; 21 in the Clare Valley; 49 in the Fleurieu Peninsula (includes McLaren Vale); 25 in Coonawarra and 12 elsewhere, total 145. Plenty to keep a dedicated taster occupied.
