Questions about South Island NZ

Old Oct 19th, 2005, 07:12 AM
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Questions about South Island NZ

We will be short on time with a total of 7 days so think we should fly to Queenstown from Christchruch. If we spend the first night in Queenstown, then take an overnight Milford or Doubtful Sound cruise then return back to Queenstown for our 3rd night, doesn't that seem rather disruptive in terms of packing, unpacking, repacking etc. Is there any other way to include the overnight? Going on the cruise the 3rd night means we leave Queenstown directly after the cruise. Being a VERY sensitive, light sleeper, I am concerned that I won't be able to sleep on the boat (boat and other guest noises) Is it worth it? With time for only one, how do you make a choice between Doubtful and Milford? Does it take longer to reach Doubtful? Sitting on a tour bus for 5 hours each direction does not offer much appeal. I have read in Frommer's Guide that you should take "gallons of bug repellent" if going on the bus/cuise. Are the sand flies vicious in November and are they worse going to Milford Sound than Doubtful Sound? I am always eaten alive to the point it could ruin my trip.

We can either drive via Mt. Cook or Dundin to Christchurch for our flight home. Since we live in Denver and visit our mountains often, water is a real treat for us. The coast to Dunedin sounds very enticing for us. Should we fly from Dunedin to avoid the 5 hrs on the road or is the drive worth the time?
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Old Oct 19th, 2005, 10:46 AM
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The distances are not that far, and some of the roads you would be traveling are very pleasant and scenic. If it were me, I would just rent a car in Christchurch, then do a loop to Mt. Cook - Queenstown - Te Anau - Dunedin - Christchurch. You will not have to retrace your route when taking a Milford or Doubtful Sounds tour, and you can stop wherever and whenever you want. You could also make the loop bigger by going over Arthurs Pass to Greymouth, then down the west coast, past the glaciers, to Queenstown.

Milford Sound has more spectacular mountains ringing the fiord, but it is much more crowded with tour boats and tourists; because it is relatively easy to drive to. The drive itself is worthwhile, particularly the part from Homer Tunnel down into the town of Milford.

Doubtful Sound is similar, but there aren't as many rugged peaks in view. On the other hand, it is far less-traveled, because it is tough to get there. You have to take a boat across Lake Manapouri, then a shuttle bus to Deep Harbor, where you board a second boat to visit Doubtful Sound.

Personally, I prefer the Doubtful Sound experience, particularly going overnight where you feel like you are the only folks on the entire Sound. There's nothing like an early morning kayak run in total silence, surrounded by towering peaks that run right to the water's edge. The water in the Sound is quite well protected, so the boat hardly rocks at all in its evening anchorage. If you are a light sleeper, you maye kept awake by noises from your fellow travelers, or water sloshing against the hull. Still, it would seem worth it to me. Few boats go overnight on Milford, so I imagine that the experience is similar.

It is true that sand flies are nasty biters and they can swarm you, but they are worst on beaches near water. Out on the Sounds, this will not be a problem, and even if you go slightly inland, you will have few problems with them as well. You will encounter some sand flies in November, but they are certainly worse later on (Jan/Feb)
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Old Oct 19th, 2005, 05:44 PM
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Whatever you do, do not disregard the need for repellent in Fiordland. Anything with a moderate percentage of DEET should work nicely.
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Old Oct 20th, 2005, 09:58 AM
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Thanks for such a thorough response to all of my questions. It really helps to have advice. We decided to fly to Queenstown rather than take the Mt Cook route to be able to minimize driving and spend more time in the Queenstown area. Would you please review the following:
Day 1 arrive from Sydney at 2:50 PM, arrive Queenstown 5:10 PM-rent car
Day 2 Queenstown (Arrowtown, drive to Milford?)
Day 3 drive 2.5 hrs to Manapouri, take overnight Cruise Doubtful Sound
Day 4 leave Manapouri after cruise at noon
stay overnight southern coast where?
Day 5 Dunedin
Day 6 drive 5 hours to Christchurch
Depart for US

We really could add one extra night. Christchurch or Queenstown?

Glad to hear about the bugs. I will certainly be prepared!
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Old Oct 20th, 2005, 06:51 PM
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Since you are going to both Milford and Doubtul sounds, why drive all the way back to Queenstown (which is of no particular interest unless you are into adventure sports)? Stay at Te Anau.

Invercargill is a convenient overnight stop before driving around the coast to Dunedin.
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Old Oct 20th, 2005, 10:56 PM
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Do the overnight on Doubtful Sound, We did it for our anniversary. The beds are great and the boat is so quite. We live in a very quite place and we had no trouble with noise, there was none.
Can you do the cruise first. Take a overnight bag with you and leave your main luggage at the hotel in Queenstown, to pick up the following evening.
Don't worry about the Sand Flys, they are not out on the sound, so you are safe on the boats.
The drive up the West Coast is a trip of a life time. Split the journey in two and stop over at Fox or Franz Jopseh.
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