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Please review our New Zealand itinerary for first-timers.

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Mar 15th, 2010, 04:33 AM
  #1
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Please review our New Zealand itinerary for first-timers.

Hello! We have got some excellent feedback on our itinerary for our first trip to New Zealand, and we have a "final draft" for anyone who might want to comment. We realize we are cutting out a lot of the "major" sights but would rather spend more quality time in the places that really appeal to us.

Days 1 & 2: Arrive Auckland

Days 3, 4, 5, 6: Bay of Islands, staying in Paihia at the Ash Grove Motel.

Days 7, 8, 9, 10: Fly from Auckland to Nelson, drive to Abel Tasman, staying in Marahu at the Ocean View Chalets.

Days 11, 12, 13: Staying in the Catlins. Thinking about renting a cottage in Curio Bay, is this a good base? What's the best way to get here, fly into Dunedin? I'm a bit worried that this is so far out of the way, but think it will be worth it...

Days 14, 15, 16: Queenstown or Arrowtown, right now we're leaning towards QT. We're also considering taking the Taieri Gorge Railway, could we get away without a car in QT for a few days? Hotel suggestions?

Days 17, 18, 19: Fiordland. Considering splurging for the Milford Lodge cabins since we're having difficulty finding accommodation in our $100 US budget for Te Anau. Also, is Te Anau really a good base for this area? We want to do a Milford Sound cruise, kayak, and also do a day hike on either Kepler or Milford and I've read that Milford is 2 hrs from Te Anau.

Also, is the Milford overnight *really* worth it? It's so $$$... We'd do quad-share, but it seems like half the time is spent asleep.

Also, how far in advance should we book our inter-island flights? Do the prices vary much?

Thanks in advance for any comments/suggestions
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Mar 15th, 2010, 07:47 AM
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It seems to me that the Catlins part is out of order. It might do best at the end, driving from TA through Invercargill, then going to Dunedin to fly out of. That would involve driving from Abel Tasman to QT, passing the glaciers. Have you mapped it out?

The listed drive time from TA to Milford is listed at 2:15 hr.

http://www.accommodationz.co.nz/distances2.html

Yes, the flight prices increase over time. My feeling is to book as soon as you are sure of your itinerary.
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Mar 15th, 2010, 03:14 PM
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Are you departing from Auckland too?

I assume you don't want to drive because you're short on time...if that's the case, I'd suggest flying from Nelson to Dunedin, renting a car, then driving to the Catlins from Dunedin. After your stay in the Catlins you can drive to Te Anau (or Milford), then drive from Milford (or Te Anau) to Queenstown for the last portion of your stay. From Queenstown you can then fly to your departure point.

Invercargill also has an airport, so it's an option too (Nelson-Invercargill), but because the drive from Dunedin takes you right through the Catlins, I think flying to Dunedin is a better option and you won't have to do any backtracking. It takes less than two hours to drive from Dunedin to the Catlins (longer with stops).

Flying is going to eat up a bit of your budget though, as it's not cheap, but since you're most interested in places at the very north and very south of the SI, it might be the way to go.

Have you looked into the Bella Vista Motel chain? They have locations in just about every town of any size in NZ, including Te Anau. They have rates as low as NZ $99.

As for the Catlins, Curio Bay should make a good base (beware of sandflies) We found Fortrose to be a good base too - we spent one day exploring the north Catlins and one day exploring the south. Keep in mind that the Catlins area is isolated, it's rather spread out and services are very limited (food, gas, etc). You might want to stop at a grocery store in Dunedin before heading to the Catlins to pick up some provisions, especially if you plan to self cater.

Milford IS two hours from Te Anau. I personally prefer Te Anau as a base to Milford - more services, and plenty to do.

The Kepler Track begins near Te Anau. The day hike on the Milford Track begins at Te Anau Downs, which is located between Te Anau and Milford (but closer to Te Anau).

I'd suggest basing in Te Anau, getting an early start and driving to Milford for your cruise and kayak. Spend a full day in Milford. Then return to Te Anau and spend the next day or two tramping the Milford as a day walk and the Kepler or Routeburn.

Take a look at the Croft B&B - it's ideally located outside of Te Anau on the road to Milford.

Good luck.
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Mar 16th, 2010, 05:08 AM
  #4
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Sand flies? Sand? Flies? Okay, so, I've spent the last 2 weeks reading up on NZ and this is the first time I've heard of sand flies... Just read up on them. Not thrilled with the idea of spending 2/3 of our time in areas with SAND. And FLIES. And I don't fancy the idea of wearing long sleeves and pants in February. So where are these buggers really going to be a problem? I am the type of person who always gets eaten by bugs/mosquitoes and I really react badly to them...

I am also bummed about the cost of interisland NZ flights. I was thinking it would be like Hawaii where interisland flights are like $49. Ha! I did find a $99 NZ flight from Auckland to Nelson on the NZ version of Expedia, which seems to be 1/2 the cost of the same flight on the Air New Zealand site.

But really, I hate to sound like a wimp, but I don't want to be bothered by bugs. We were looking forward to just chilling on the beach some days... What areas should we avoid to avoid sand flies? Should we go during another season?
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Mar 16th, 2010, 11:57 AM
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I am also a sandfly magnet and hence now avoid the areas shown below as "often a nuisance". This includes the west coast, Milford Sound, Te Anau, and the north coast of the South Island as far as the Queen Charlotte Sounds. (You will them on you in the bush and on the beach). If you really want to avoid them, I would do the Milford Sound as a day trip from Queenstown and avoid Te Anau. Add the days to a location on the east side of the Southern Alps. In addition to more days around Queenstown, consider Dunedin, Mt. Cook, Kaikoura.
Map of sandly nuisance
http://www.teara.govt.nz/en/sandflie...mosquitoes/1/2

You may find better airfares by playing with the dates itinerary and flying between different sets of cities. As in the US, certain days of the week and even directions of travel, as well as competition, will affect the fares. However if you are trying to fly the same time that everyone leaves and returns from the Christmas & NY holidays you are not going to find any bargains. School holidays in 2010 will start around 14-19 December. You can expect traffic back toward the North Island to be heavy around January 9th-10th-11th (returns to work).



EG I did quite well with Auckland-Queenstown, Christchurch-Auckland, and Auckland-Wellington. Since you are going quite early in summer then you may want to put the north of Auckland part to the end of your itin. Also if this if for next January, I do think you are far too early to see airfare sales on Air New Zealand.

That is a lot of days in Pahia, I gather you aren't renting a car? What are you going to do on all of those days? And why two days in a row in Auckland at the beginning of the trip? Why not just go to Pahia and rest up there?

If you are flying into Queenstown to do some of the paid activities they normally will pick you up at your lodgings. There is also a bus service. Even if you find something outside of town it isn't too difficult to go into town for dinner.

Bella Vista prices are north of the $99 NZ mark, especially if they raise the rates during summer. However it's getting harder to find a motel room anywhere for under $99. Anything under $110 is still reasonable.
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Mar 16th, 2010, 04:24 PM
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britomart -

Please don't let sandflies discourage you from visiting one of the prettiest countries in the world! Yes, NZ has sandflies, but they're not everywhere and they're certainly not worth fretting over. You can take steps to prevent being bitten.

I only mentioned them because you brought up Curio Bay, and on our last trip to the SI, the sandflies were prolific the day we visited Curio Bay, but the rest of our stay in the Catlins was almost sandfly free, save a few buzzing around our cottage in the evenings.

The worst sandflies I've ever experienced were in Milford Sound...but the last time we were there, it wasn't a problem, so you just never know.

The best way I've found to avoid sandflies it to travel in the colder months, but barring that, just know they exist and be prepared with some repellent. The best thing I've found for sandflies is 100% DEET, but I've yet to find it outside of the US.

Here's the link for Bella Vista. When I checked yesterday they had their smallest room listed at NZ $99 (in Te Anau).

http://www.bellavistamotels.co.nz/

Hostels are another option. I've never stayed in one and have no idea what they cost, but I've heard generally good things about hostels in NZ.

http://www.hostels.com/new-zealand
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Mar 17th, 2010, 03:02 AM
  #7
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The issues I had with my itinerary before learning about high $$ interisland flights and sand flies was that it involved way too much travel distance, that it involved too much turning in and picking up rental cars, and that it was very beach-heavy. After looking at the sandfly nuisance map (very handy, thanks!), I am thinking we should spend more time on the NI and the north part of the SI, and perhaps save everything south of Christchurch for another 2-3 week trip. Husband and I are going to go back to studying the maps and guidebooks and come up with draft 3 Will repost soon. Thanks for all the help guys!
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Mar 17th, 2010, 03:04 AM
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"That is a lot of days in Pahia, I gather you aren't renting a car? What are you going to do on all of those days? And why two days in a row in Auckland at the beginning of the trip? Why not just go to Pahia and rest up there?"

We are renting a car, we thought 4 days would be a good way to see everything at a leisurely pace. I've heard going up to Cape Reinga would take a whole day? And the 2 days at the beginning is flying in from the west coast of the US.
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Mar 17th, 2010, 07:09 AM
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I fly in from the west coast, straight from LA. The flights usually arrive early in the morning and you clear customs quickly. You'll feel quite awake in the morning, want to go to bed early, and get up early the next day (which isn't a bad thing in NZ, since most things shut down early).

I've found continuing onward the day you arrive to work out quite well, especially if you don't have that much time. It takes a bit of effort to round trip to the airport from Auckland. Also note that driving out of Auckland CBD isn't the best way to begin to get aquainted with driving on the other side, although there is a "freeway" north out of town. I would consider flying to Queenstown if you can find a good price. That area is one of the better ones for basing yourself for 4-5 nights and doing day trips. It's also outside the sandfly zone and quite scenic.

It certainly does take forever to visit Cape Reinga from Paihia, as a round trip. I would stay a few nights in the Bay of Islands to visit Russell and Waitangi, maybe do one of the touristy things like the Cream Cruise. But I think after a few nights you'll be ready to move along. If you're driving yourselves to Cape Reinga I'd do a night or two farther north (it's even prettier than Bay of Islands in my opinion). You might also drive back via the west coast and spend a night along the way there.

I think you need to consider carefully the time of year that you are going. This past year, the summer arrived very late (in January all I heard was complaints!) December can be marginal beach weather even in the far north, as well as exceptionally wet on the west coast.

I don't know Mel, I looked at the Bellavista website and Te Anau shows as "From $120NZ" for Oct-April. That's consistent with the pricing I found this past Jan for that level of accom. You can find standard rooms on sale for $100NZ at hotels and lodges. There is still the occasional cheap motel but they seem hard to find in season somewhere like Te Anau.

You've got lots of time OP, get a better handle on what you want to do and sign up for alerts about hotel and airfare sales. (Can't remember if I mentioned Millenium hotels for their sales. They make up for low room rates with high internet charges!)

Also consider looking into B&Bs, often breakfast, internet and often snacks are included which makes them as good a value as hostels or motels. Plus it's a good way to meet some locals, which is really one of the best things about traveling in NZ.
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Mar 17th, 2010, 09:26 AM
  #10
 
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A couple quick points...

Driving in New Zealand does take a lot more time than you would imagine...I don't think there's a long straight road
on either island, so i would agree with mlgb. There are several places you can visit in and around Paihai but do remember if your renting a car it will take 60 minutes to travel 70 or 80 kilometers.

I visited Milford Sound in February and to be honest I didn't hear about sand flies until after I left and someone asked me how they were! I never noticed them.
I did an overnight on a boat and thoroughly enjoyed it. Remember that Milford Sound is considered a 'rain forest' climate so if your wearing long sleeve shirts, long pants and even some rain gear, etc. they may not bother you at all.
Of course I may have just been lucky.

Flights across NZ may have changed since I was there last time were a little high, but not too difficult to book once you arrive. I paid $ 230 to fly from Auckland to Queenstown and then from Christchurch back to Auckland. Nope not $49 or $99 but when your from Canada and it costs $500 to fly from Ottawa to Toronto those aren't bad prices.

Good luck and have a great trip!
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Mar 17th, 2010, 10:04 AM
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What are the "high $$ interisland flights"? An example, please. NZ or US$.

We stayed on the westcoast 3 nights, took the Doubtful overnight, and one night at the Catlins. The only time we had flies was when we walked on the beach near Lake Moeraki.
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Mar 17th, 2010, 01:03 PM
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NZ domestic flights have been opened up to competition from Pacific Blue and Jetstar. Air NZ is generally matching their heavily discounted fares on the competing routes. So yes, you can get fares in the range of $49 to $99 NZD if you are willing to accept limits on baggage and refundability. Even less during off-peak periods. Just like in the US.

On the other hand if you are flying on a route with no competition (such as Invercargill) you are just as screwed as before.

Domestic airfares were one of the few things that went down in price since my prior visit which was in 2006 (so 3 years). Food seemed to have inflated significantly, there were some articles in the paper about the supermarket duopoly being a major factor.
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Mar 18th, 2010, 08:28 AM
  #13
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"What are the "high $$ interisland flights"? An example, please. NZ or US$."

Air New Zealand site, $265 for one-way flight from Nelson to Dunedin on 2/9/2011. For ONE person.
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Mar 18th, 2010, 09:13 AM
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I'm assuming what you are seeing is the Air NZ full fare price for a oneway flight ($299). They aren't going to put their sale prices up for next summer this far in advance. I don't know if you will ever see a good fare for Nelson-DUD though.

I would subscribe to their sale notices. Pacific Blue flys Auckland to Dunedin, but not from Nelson. The number of discounted seats is limited on this route ($99NZ). If you start with a flight Auckland to DUD, its a good drive to Queenstown via the Catlins. You do need a car to access the Catlins.

You might ask if your international ticket can be booked to the South Island (Christchurch or Queenstown) for the same airfare. That will at least cover one leg.

If you had wanted to see the Queen Charlotte Sounds you can probably find a cheap airfare Auckland to Wellington and take the ferry to Picton, too.
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Mar 19th, 2010, 05:50 PM
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Should we try to end up in QT or CC then, to avoid another flight to a major airport? Do those airports fly back to the US or would we have to go thru Auckland?

What are some other must-see NI sites? Hawkes Bay? Eastland? Not too thrilled with Tongariro, Taupo or Rotorua.
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Mar 19th, 2010, 07:46 PM
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The only airport of any size is Auckland, and it isn't the airport that's a hassle, it's the getting to it...it's out in the boonies and Auckland traffic can be quite difficult.

Christchurch airport is very close to the central business district and has a lot of choices for flights. I will usually try to fly into the south and work my way to end in Christchurch for a return back to Auckland the day before. I'm not sure if you can fly to the US from there, it would be worth checking.

Usually the car rentals are easier to get one way from the south to the north. I guess many people start on the north and drop their rentals off at the south.
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Mar 20th, 2010, 06:41 PM
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As of two years ago you could fly too Christchurch and return out of San Fransisco.
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Mar 22nd, 2010, 01:11 PM
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hi - you're so lucky to be planning a trip to NZ!! I'm in LA on my way back from a 2-month tour of both south and north islands... you are spoiled for choice!! we too love the beach, and they are as varied as you will find anywhere in the world.

i agree with mlgb - avoid auckland and don't bother with days 1 and 2 there. one day is quite enough. the suggestion to fly to queenstown is good also... if you decide on queenstown, i would stay in arrowtown (quick 15 minute drive from queenstown) rather than q-town, unless you are very young and need to be where the action is at all times. queenstown is likely to be the liveliest place in your itinerary - most towns are very sleepy and bedtime is generally earlier than americans are used to, though you slip into their rhythm very easily...

queenstown is quite lovely (though locals find it touristy) - you can easily spend a couple of days there (drive out to glenorchy for magnificent scenery, try the chalet lift in q-town with a couple of luges down - fun and great views). arrowtown is a somewhat touristy but lovely town with shops, restaurants as well, but much quieter and very atmospheric. i believe they offer day trips to fiordland from q-town as well - you may want to consider this... we stayed in te anau for 3 days, and i'm not sure i'd bother with it again - new zealand has unbelievable scenery everywhere, and milford sound certainly qualifies as one of those places, but glaciers, mt. cook are impressive as well. don't bother with those cabins in milford - look kind of gross. sand flies and weather are a major factor when visiting there as well. we did the doubtful sound tour (full day, $295 NZD). frankly, i'd skip it. We did a full day tour to Cape Reinga for only $55 NZD with Sand Safaris in Northland, and it was far more interesting with a Maori guide, sand tobogganing on oversize dunes, drive down beach, etc.

we did so many things, it's hard to comment directly to your itinerary, so in general i'll give my impressions of specific areas...

bay of islands - russell much nicer than paihia - i would stay there instead. do either "cream of the bay" day tour or consider the overnight trip on "the rock" - packs a lot of punch for 22 hours on the water. leave at 5 pm, overnight on boat with snorkeling, kayaking, hiking, almost guaranteed dolphin viewing and meals included - collect and eat local mussels! good value for all that's included. of course, it's much better when weather is good - in bad weather, bay of islands isn't much, actually.

consider banks peninsula south of christchurch. this was one of our favorite areas - startling beauty everywhere, and town of akaroa is charming with slightly french feel. driving is a little slow (very windy and hilly), but beautiful. we did hector dolphin swim here and really enjoyed it. no guarantee on dolphin viewing (apparently they are fickle creatures!) but we got lucky... we stayed in a hostel in okains bay which is remote but unbelievably lovely. also, were you to go to this area, you're fairly close to kaikoura which is marine life central - whale watching, seals and sea lions everywhere (will come right up to you, and are often in the road) - dolphins, etc. if this is an interest of yours, kaikoura is your best bet.

nelson to abel tasman is a good choice - this park is great and will satisfy your kayaking need. the wide variety of water taxi options here will enable you to do both a day hike and/or kayaking, both of which i recommend highly. bring your deet! as an aside, if you enjoy fine dining at all, we had one of the best meals of our lives in nelson, at a small place on the water called The Boat Shed (don't confuse with Boat Cafe next door). For $110 NZD for 2 we had the 5-course "trust the chef" menu, and it knocked us out. outstanding.

for the interests you mention, i would actually hover over the north and east sections of south island, and use your hop to queenstown to satisfy fiordland requirement. perhaps spend more time on north island which is not talked up as much, and i'm not sure why. coromandel is breathtaking, northland has much to offer - hokianga is beautiful, manapouri one of the best beaches i've ever seen, etc. we actually cancelled a week in tahiti to stay on at beaches of north island.

i would consider doing queenstown area for 4-5 days, abel tasman for 4, drive through marlborough sounds, stay a night or two, continue through blenheim for wineries to kaikoura for marine wildlife, on to banks peninsula and then fly christchurch to north island again. skip catlins. on north island, taupo area is lovely, and they have a kayak option to view huge maori carvings in rocks.

you can do small hikes most anywhere - the DOC has marked trails all over NZ, with times and difficulty noted. we did many one hour return trails everywhere, and they did not disappoint.

one other note - don't know your age or where you are from, but i'm 53 and used to many of the finer things, including accommodation. my boyfriend was insistent we try the hostel system, and i humored him before we left insisting that i would try it, but would not promise i would stay more than a night or two. this was one of the greatest surprises of my entire trip - we stayed at many places with unbelievable views, ambiance, etc., meeting people from all over the world. we always booked ensuite rooms (shared baths can be a bit much for me), but kitchen facilities are shared. this system (BBH) is most likely the best hostel system in the world. we joined for $45 NZD and almost never stayed anywhere else. there is a pamphlet they provide with listings by geographical area and ratings from people who have stayed there - we found as long as it had a rating of 91% or better, the accommodation was fantastic. Cost for the best rooms (for 2 people ensuire) is about $75 NZD!!! I would specifically recommend:

Blackjack Lodge on Coromandel - request chalet - beds average, but private porch and bath. utterly charming! kayak rental $10 for entire stay - on an estuary leading directly to ocean. brilliant! also, if you go to Coromandel don't miss Cathedral Cove - more people on beach than you are likely to see elsewhere (we had many beaches all to ourselves), but beautiful. it's a good hike there - then spend day on beach - very small trickling waterfall on right side of beach to rinse off, bathrooms, great scenery and beautiful water. also kayaking this coast would be great i imagine - didn't do it, but whole peninsula beautiful.

Hopewell - in Marlborough Sounds - you can drive part of the way, must water taxi the rest. Beautiful destination spot - again, kayaying, swimming, mussel gathering all on offer here. in the middle of nowhere, but a breathtakingly beautiful nowhere it is!!!

Endless Summer - Ahipara (last stop before Cape Reinga) - beautiful older home restored - no ensuite available but home is top notch. no town to speak of, but good gateway to Cape Reinga...

Double Dutch - Okains Bay - Banks Peninsula - only 3 rooms, so it may feel like your very own, very lovely and squeaky clean home. This area is remote but estuary and beach are again, breathtaking!

anyway - i realize i'm going on and on - it was the best trip of my life!!!!! please feel free to contact me with any questions - happy to help, and it's all still very fresh in my mind (and journal!)
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Mar 22nd, 2010, 05:46 PM
  #19
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ivyhouse: Thanks for the detailed response, it has me excited for the itinerary again instead of tearing my hair out over it! Husband and I sat down with maps and guidebooks and are still mulling things over. We've decided to cut out the Catlins and Te Anau, and 1 day each from Abel and Bay of Islands, which gives us an extra 8 days to play with. I am still unsure if I should cut out Queenstown, my husband is not interested but I still am even though it is so far south. Here's a couple of rough drafts:

1, 2, 3 - Paihia (have heard Russell is quieter but don't fancy the idea of having to take ferries to get on and off)

4, 5, 6 - Whitianga

7, 8, 9 - Abel Tasman

10, 11 - Picton

12, 13 - Kaikoura

14, 15, 16 - Christchurch

17, 18, 19 - Queenstown w/day trip or overnight to Milford

Draft 2 spends more time on North Island and eliminates QT:

1, 2, 3 - Paihia

4, 5, 6 - Whitianga

7 - Rotorua

8 - Taupo

9, 10 - Napier

11 - Wellington

12, 13, 14 - Abel

15, 16 - Kaikoura

17, 18, 19 - Christchurch

Everything is flexible except Paihia and Abel, we're pretty sure we want at least 3 days there.

Re: the hostels, I would *love* to stay in hostels, but unfortunately when husband and I went to London we stayed in a horrible hostel with a run-down en-suite room that had drunk people running up and down the halls all night and hubby will never stay in a hostel again

I also love the idea of doing a day trip to Reinga, we google mapped it and found out how long of a drive it was--yikes!

One other question--will it be more expensive to have to divide up the car rentals into segments when we fly vs. drive?
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Mar 22nd, 2010, 06:22 PM
  #20
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Gosh, all those accommodations you listed look awesome! Is it a pain to have to take water taxis in Marlborough sound though? It seems $$$ too...
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