I said I’d keep you updated on our planned trip to western Australia, so here we are for anyone who’s interested. Thanks to all for suggestions which have made getting this far much easier!

We have 5 weeks to travel Perth-Broome-Perth – we originally planned 3 weeks but decided if it’s worth doing ..... ! After much deliberation we’ve now decided to drive Broome-Perth, for reasons given here.

We arrive in Perth for 4 nights, will hire a small car & intend to do sights around Perth. Since we’ll finish the trip in Perth we can always come back to a ‘can’t miss’ something we didn’t have time to do. Then we fly to Broome and drive back to Perth.

Whether to fly Perth to Broome and do one-way, or do a round trip Perth-Broome-Perth was one of the biggest decisions, a lot of factors involved in the decision
- one-way rentals turned out to be very expensive, average A$1,000 fee (euro 685).
- But it’s a 2,300 km trip one-way which would only be comfortable to do in 2-3 days, so you have to balance costs of fuel, accommodation and time with getting a flight and paying the one-way fee.
- Our original plan was to travel Perth-Broome, thought it would be nice to start in ‘winter’ and finish in warmer climes, but we decided to do the reverse for couple of reasons – firstly, the flights were more expensive in the period we wanted to return and secondly, (and this is a bit silly but ...) we will probably accumulate a bit of gear on the way which we would have problems getting back on an internal flight.

We spent an extraordinary amount of time researching car rental, a word of warning to anyone trying to do the same thing - many companies will not allow you to rent from or drive to Broome – furthest north seems to be Exmouth. Beware that this can also happen if you use the comparison agents which only send you the details after paying and booking – we thought we’d got a good deal which included a A$500 (euro 340) drop off fee but on reading the small print (only available after payment) they also did not allow travel further than Exmouth without invalidating the insurance, yet they allowed you to book it. I spent an age on the phone with the agent who also couldn’t understand it and had to contact the car rental firm himself to try and understand the term and conditions. In the end he confidentially said that he wouldn’t personally book something which had such complicated terms because somewhere along the line there was a chance you’d be invalidating the insurance – we got a full refund no problem but it’s not a convenient way to do things.

Another thing to look out for is the common ‘limited km’ clause – 100km a day is usual and won’t take you far in Australia, you could end up adding a lot more to the bill. And also check that you can drive on unsealed roads – again, most of the major companies will not allow you to (without invalidating insurance) which rules out many of the national parks.

The relocation deals didn’t work out because there’s a limited time to return the vehicle, but a good idea in other circumstances.

What kind of vehicle? We want to ‘get away from it all’ so, as I mentioned before I found that a regular saloon couldn’t use a lot of the park roads. We don’t want to go ‘off road’ but we want the option of getting off the tar roads. We thought about a camper, but found them very expensive for 5 weeks, and don’t really like the idea of lugging a large vehicle around all day. We loved the idea of companies like at ozpodscampers.com.au with integral tent and camping equipment, but again they will not allow use on unsealed roads, so can’t see the point of camping if you can’t get to remote places. The Wicked campers look OK for 20-somethings but I think a couple in their 50s would look a little ridiculous, and I’ve read a few too many negative comments on them. In the end we found local firm ‘M2000’ (m2000car.com.au) had the best deal and clear rental terms & conditions. We got a small 4x4 with unlimited km, and drop off fee A$450. They were very patient answering my many queries, although it sometimes took 2-3 days to answer emails but they will get back to you.

We realised looking at our route in more detail that accommodation could be difficult to come by, especially in high season, so the idea of camping is a good one, and also 5 weeks even in B&Bs would stretch our budget. So we’ve decided to buy a tent and basic camping equipment in Broome and mix camping with B&B/hotel accommodation. This way we have the option to stay overnight wherever we end up and don’t have to plan our route in quite so much detail, otherwise we’d have to pre-book the ‘must-see’ places like Monky Mia which would force us to a schedule. I’m guessing that prices will be higher in Broome than Perth due to the remote location, but the Kimberley Camping store seem to have everything – any input from locals welcome! I’m disappointed we won’t be able to shop in ‘Got'Ya Tackle’ in Perth, they’d get my business just for the name!

We don’t mind camping but I’m a little anxious about the creepy-crawlies. We’ve camped many times in Africa with lions and hyaenas sniffing around the tent and baboons stealing your dinner, and it’s guaranteed that I’ll come across at least one venomous snake – doesn’t worry me in the least, but I don’t fancy those poisonous little bug---s you get there! We’re used to bush camping and the Australian camping sites look positively luxurious!

So ... we can try to sell the second-hand, little-used tent & equipment when we get back to Perth or donate it to charity (any ideas from Perth locals?) We might be able to fit the sleeping bags into our luggage for the flight home, or again give them to charity.

Don’t know if many people are aware of excess insurance policies which mean you can decline the excess insurance from the car company and use your own? In our case the car hire company would charge an additional A$700 to reduce the excess, whereas we can buy an annual excess insurance policy for £60 to take the excess to zero (icarhireinsurance.com).

The route itself is classic Broome to Perth down the coast, possibly including Karijini National Park . Intend to spend some time round Broome first, and will probably do some organised trips since even the 4x4 we’re hiring isn’t suitable for most of the tracks round Broome (again, check your rental agreement for where exactly you can drive the vehicle). Focus for us is wildlife and nature, so which is good because I’m not sure there’s that much else up there!!

Arrival back in Perth is flexible, if we feel we didn’t see enough at the beginning of the trip we’ll head back sooner, but if we can’t tear ourselves away from Ningaloo reef we’ll make it later!

Would welcome comments and suggestions on the plan and itinerary, waiting eagerly for Melnq8’s report on her trip up the coast for more ideas! Have already got a lot of ideas from her ‘Ningaloo Reef...Exmouth or Coral Bay? Sites along the way?’ thread as well as her ‘around Perth’ suggestions.

Do I understand correctly that you're flying from Perth to Broome, renting a 4x4, buying camping equipment in Broome and then working your way down to Perth?

A few thoughts based on our recent Perth-Exmouth-Perth adventure...

Many shires prohibit camping outside of designated areas...campgrounds do fill up - the day we visited Cape Grand (near Exmouth) there were signs advising the campgrounds were full. The caravan park we stayed at in Carnarvon filled up both nights we were there and I'm told high season doesn't officially begin until July.

There are loads of unsealed roads between Perth and Exmouth - many of the national parks are completely unsealed, yet the roads are 'formed' - will your car rental company allow travel on formed roads? For example, the road into Kalbarri National Park is unsealed and it's often closed if there's been rain. We took our personal car on many a formed road, because it was that or nothing.

The NW of WA has a lot of floodways and roads do flood after rain. We experienced this first hand...we had to make a four hour, 300 km detour due to a flooded road between Coral Bay and Carnarvon. Thankfully, there was a second road, sometimes there isn't.

Petrol prices are high up north - we paid as much as $1.64 a liter - probably not an issue if you're from the UK though (have I got that part right?). Petrol stations are well spaced, but scarce.

As far as Ningaloo Reef...we were underwhelmed with Coral Bay, but we could have used an extra day in Exmouth. Diving optiions from Coral Bay were limited - many more options in Exmouth. Cold water, you'll need a wetsuit.

Thanks for your feedback, yes it was a long-winded way of saying that we are flying from Perth to Broome, renting a 4x4, buying camping equipment in Broome and then working our way down to Perth.

Now beginning to worry that even campsites will not be available ... anyone else got experience of this in August? Is it really possible that we'll not be able to find a place even to camp?

Thanks for tip on 'formed roads' - will check with rental company, that's a new one for me!

Yes we are used to high fuel prices in UK, whatever it is in Australia it's one of those things we can't avoid anyway.

I am getting an impression that your trip didn't live up to expectations, would like to hear more when you get the chance, including 'must sees' and 'don't bothers'.

I certainly don't mean to discourage you tockoloshe. I like to be prepared, but people wing it all the time - that's the beauty of camping...making it up as you go along.

The caravan park we stayed at in Exmouth was taking bookings well into August - I overheard this while using the internet in their office. They also had a brisk walk-in crowd, and many folks were turned away - they have chalets, powered sites and tent sites. Mind you this was late in the day, around 5 pm, so you'll probably be okay if you find a place to crash earlier in the day.

Our trip was interesting, but it just wore us out (we're in your age group). It was entirely too much butt time for us. I'd much rather have spent that road time actually DOING something. We're avid hikers...but we prefer tall trees and lots of green. NW WA just wasn't our thing, but I'm glad we went all the same.

High points for us included Denham (loved it), Shell Beach, Ocean Park, a quad trip into Francois Peron National Park, a morning at Monkey Mia, Greenough and the Pinnacles. I'd have enjoyed a full day in Carnarvon and a full day or two in Geraldton/Greenough.

Low points were Kalbarri, Coral Bay and trying to reach accommodation/visitor's centers/destinations before closing time (which is as early as 4:30 pm here in WA).

The accommodation varied from disappointing to excellent and the food quality was surprisingly good.

There you have it. I've just saved you from having to read an as of yet unwritten, much too long trip report!

Hi T,

Here's a golden snippet for you -

http://www.barnhill.com.au/index.html

Sorry Mel I didn't mention it for your trip - forgot about it actually but you quite possibly wouldn't have been able to fit it in.

This place - Barn Hill - was my DH's favourite spot on our entire trip around Australia. It seems to have 'grown up' a bit since we were there in 1997 but we had our bus perched on a cliff precipice and spent our days whale watching, fishing and enjoying the serenity.

It really, really is a wonderful spot you may want to check out. Will get back to you soon re the rest of your trip.

Wow you've done a lot of research, that's fantastic!

I actully work for Wicked Campers and spent some time in Broome learning more about the west-coast roadtrip. It's one of the best you can do! Less commercial than the east-coast, and watching the sunset over the Indian Ocean after a hard day of travelling just rejuvinates you, its amazing.

Sad you've heard negative comments about us! Yes our market is predominantly 18 - 35, but we've also had some older couples rent from us - particularly on the West coast. One of my favourite stories comes from a 72 year old lady who travelled from Perth to Broome in a Wicked Camper with her 44 year old daughter (story: http://www.wickedcampers.com.au/wick...the-coast.html)

All the best on your roadtrip, you will have a fab time!

Thanks for those comments.

Mel,the comments about the campsites are interesting, will bear in mind the tip on trying to book in earlier rather than later if possible. But a bit worrying to think that even camping may not be an option.

Stormbird, Barn Hill looks great, and is on the itinerary as our first stop off from Broome - not far I know but looks too good to miss!

I was interested to see Barn Hill's comment about booking:
"... It is essential that you pre-book for powered sites during peak season (June - August) as we are quite often booked out. It is unnecessary however to book for unpowered sites as we can always accommodate you."
I had thought that we'd always get an unpowered site at a campsite, like they say, but can anyone confirm that or tell me their experiences of not finding a camping place during high season?

evangelist, I was actually a bit sorry we decided against Wicked Campers, I think it's a good idea and I also like the idea of fighting back against the 'big boys' in the rental business and their excessive pricing policies - maybe next time! Nice to hear your enthusiasm for our route!

Any more suggestions for the Broome to Perth route - either accommodation or sights to see, particularly those which might not appear in the standard guide books? And anyone had experience of buying camping equipment in Broome - I would be interested to know if there's any second-hand stuff around?

Not long before we leave ... can't wait!

tockoloshe -

I assume Cape Range National Park is on your must see list...

I've just now read that it has 90 camping bays...no power, shower or cooking facilities. Many of the sites have toilets and picnic tables, but no water, so you'll need to be self-sufficient. They don't take bookings.

Hi tockoloshe,

Karijini/Millstream National Parks are beautiful - Hammersley Gorge was my favourite gorge on our trip around Oz. Loved the colours of that place. Mel was a bit disenchanted with Kalbarri as we were, so would recommend Karijini instead.

Cape Range National Park was also a favourite place of ours on our trip. We had the most wonderful time there.

Near Dampier is the North West Shelf Gas project. The visitors centre is well worth a look, as is the time lapse photography display of the building of the facilities there. Pretty amazing.

80 Mile beach was a nice spot to stay - we camped there and I'm pretty sure it was in a caravan park. If you like fishing it is a great place.

I also enjoyed the tour through the ore plant at Port Hedland - very interesting.

I mentioned to Mel to pop into a place called Quobba near Carnarvon - awesome king waves and a great blow hole.

We really enjoyed Monkey Mia.

I'm sure we popped out to Onslow as well - I'd have to check notes. I'll do that and get back with any more info I think will help.

We are grey nomads and travelled the West Australian coast last year. Just a few comments to add to those already listed.
Karijini is absolutely beautiful and if you can get there, the extra mileage will be worth it.
There was a very good caravan park at Eighty Mile Beach but it was devasted in the last cyclone although I would imagine it will be up and running again by now. The locals will know.
Geraldton has an excellent museum - very easy to spend a few hours there. We would also recommend the art gallery and the HMAS Sydney memorial.
We stayed at a very good caravan park at Point Sampson (nice cabins). While we were there, we booked to do a tour through the Roebourne visitors' centre. I think we paid about $5 for about three hours visiting an ore-loading facility and the old towns of Cossack and Roebourne - very good value for an interesting morning.
Stop at Wooramel roadhouse (just south of Carnarvon) for really good freshly made pastries - we were told that the owner was a pastry cook.
If you are in WA in wildflower time, do a side trip to Mullewa. We found the most amazing wildflowers around the little town - the visitors' centre will give you directions to the best areas.
New Norcia is a must - only about two hours north of Perth. Make sure you take the tour to get the best from your visit.
Hope you have a great time.

Thanks all - getting quite a few 'must sees' and 'must dos' now, good to get tips from people with first-hand experience!

Any more suggestions before we leave?

tockoloshe,

I came across a review you wrote about Botswana last year and have a few questions. If you would mind helping me out please email me at [email protected]

Thanks,

Jay