Jed

Part 1 - Getting there

This is a long report of a three week trip that 2 senior couples, Madge and Fred, and Arline and I, took to NZ. I have rated most things on a (1-10) system, based on my or our collective personal opinions and experience. All prices are in NZ$, which was worth about .7 US$. When we started planning the trip, it was worth .6US, making the trip 16% more than originally. All the planning and reservations were done on the net, aiming to see the most we could, with moderate activity and accommodations. I hope that some of the many details will help some one in planning. I will be glad to answer any questions that I can.

We were both fortunate to get FF business seats. They went on American/Quantas, and we went on USAir/AirNZ. We started calling for the seats in Feb 2004, and finally got them leaving on Mar 19,2005, returning Apr 10.

Arline and I left PHL early in the AM, planning to stay in KA one night, and the plane was full. When we got to LA, one of our checked luggage didn't make it, along with about 20 others. I suspect that the plane was overloaded. The luggage was to come on the next flight, which to us was a bother, but for the people who were boarding a cruise ship that day it was a real problem, and they were mad as hell. Throughout the years, we learned to carry an emergency bag for such a situation. This was another black eye for USAir.

The next day we all went to the Getty Center (8) which was worth a few hours. We had lunch at the restaurant (5).

Arline and I showed up at the ANZ counter in the PM for our 7:45 flight, only to be told that we had no seat reservation. I protested that we had made them for the bulkheads 11 moths ago, but they only had singles left upstairs on the 747. So we took them, hoping to sit together after we got on the plane. I learned a lesson that seat reservations should be checked frequently. As we waited in the NZ Club, I asked if adjoining seats opened up, and luckily they did. The lesson is that it pays to ask nicely.

Jed

Part 2 To CHC

We landed at 4 AM in AKL, and waited for M&F who landed at 5 AM on Quantas. We walked to the domestic terminal where where got on a 7AM flight to CHC, where we were going to start our trip. Getting in at 9AM, we all felt awake and left our bags at the airport and walked 10 minutes to the International Antarctic Centre (7). We took a minivan ($40) to our B$B, which was near the center of town.

The Grange (6) on Armaugh St. looked good on the website, but we were somewhat disappoined in the worn carpets, and older furniture and furnishings. We had a medium sized room, but M&F had a small room with a tiny bathroom, and they changed for the second night to a larger room. The proprieters were helpful, and the breakfasts were good. Internet was free.

We walked into town for lunch, then to the Square where we climbed ($4) the 134 steps of the Cathedral (5). Saw the Wizard, (8), and old man who dresses up in a black wizard costume, stands on a ladder, and harangues the crowd with all sorts of blather. He has been paid by the city for 30 years to do it, as it brings in people. Then to the Art Gallery (9), a building of remarkable architecture and good paintings. We bought a Tram pass which was good for 2 days. Supper was at Mythai (4) which was unattractive with mediocre food. Zonked out .

Next day we walked to the Arts Centre (7), took a free tour of the collection of shops, workshops, and a small cinema and therter. Lunch at Dux de Lux (8). Walked around the Botanic Gardens (9), did the complete Tramway loop (9). Dinner at Annie's (9) in the Arts Centre. Good day.

Next morning we were scheduled on the Tranzalpine (8) leaving at 8:15. I had called the day before asking for seat assignment on the right side going forward. They said they would note my preferences . When we got to the station at 7:40, the place was mobbed. We were given a seat assignment for 2 and 2 seats facing each other with a central table, which turned out fine. They made a point of saying that luggage is limited, but in reality everyone brought their luggage to the last baggage car, and everything was put in. The ride and scenery were very pleasant. There was a small food service area which had a good selection of apparently good food. The small open observation car in front was crowded.

ElendilPickle

Great report so far, Jed! I'm looking forward to reading the rest of it.

Lee Ann

Jed

Part 3 - "Look right, drive left"

Getting into Greymouth, we picked up our car from National. It was a Holden Commodore, a full sized car which we needed because of its large trunk. Lunch at The Smelting House Cafe (5). Driving on the wrong side was strange, but I drove slowly, and got my first horn at the roundabout because I stopped cold when I had the right of way. I had 3 back seat drivers, and every time we came to a GIVE WAY, we voted which way to go. \/

Up north to the Punakaiki rocks (9) was a good choice and was enjoyed by all, even though it started to drizzle. Then, as we headed south, the rain increased along with the darkness and difficulty driving the mountain curves. There weren't many other cars, but they all passed me. The road was especially difficult between Franz Josef and Fox, and I was glad to get to the Lake Matheson Motel (8). Rooms were small but clean and reasonably new. Having a cover for the car trunk was helpful in the rain. Dinner at Cafe Neve (8).

Next AM we went into town at Fox Alpine Guides for the half-day tour, but the heavy rain at night caused a rock fall and blocked the usual path. So they offered the "Terminal Walk" which was shorter. Bus to parking area, then a long climb up and down, mostly up, rocky areas to the base of the glacier. The guides were busy chopping steps into the ice, and after putting on crampons, we climbed straight up the new stairs, maybe 50 feet. It was not for the unsure of foot or the faint of heart. Getting down was only slightly better.

The close-up of the wall formations was fascinating. It was absolutely exhausting and absolutely magnificent. Getting back to the bus, I gave the whole experience my only perfect (10).

Lunch at Cafe Neve again, for veggie pizza with the works (9). Pumpkin, pineapple, pesto, capers, was one-of-a-kind.

mlgb

Jed, really appreciate the details and the ratings. If you make it to Invercargill, I recommend Jagz Cafe in a residential neighborhood north of Queens Park. Home-made bistro type food, great pumpkin soup!

Jed

Part 4 - The other Garden of Eden

We then headed south to Lake Morecki where we checked into Wilderness Lodge (9). It was a beautiful place in a beautiful setting. We had reserved lodge rooms, but were given garden rooms which were significantly larger and very attractive. The only problem was that they were not sound-proof (which seemed to common in NZ). We went on a guided walk through a primeval forest for an hour. Dinner was delicious. It had started raining heavily, and by the next morning had rained 4".

Next AM, another short guided walk, followed by a long self-guided walk to gorgeous Monro Beach (9), with rocky outcropings and crashing waves, all guarded by armies of mosquitoes. We had gotten a box lunch from WLLM ($20), but carried them back to a picnic bench near the lodge where the setting was idyllic. Arline said that the place was magic. We were exhilaratingly exhausted.

At 9PM, a large group went on a guided walk in the middle of route 6 highway in the dark to see the glowworms along the road and to see the southern cross, a brilliant full moon, and Jupiter.

Next morning a short guided walk to feed the large eels which lived along the bank of Lake Morecki. There was a fleeting view of a brilliant double rainbow.

Jed

Part 5 - Regal City

We set off for Queenstown, stopping for bread and cheese in Haast, and filling the gas tank. Lunch was near Makarora in a picnic area which was lovely (a very useful word in NZ) except for the little flies and honey bees. After a long winding drive over Haast Pass and along rivers, we reached Wanaka, and drove along the streets just to see what it was like (6).

Reaching QT at Sunset, we checked into The Point (9.5), where we had reserved a 3 BR, 2 bath apt ($370/night), which was a great rate. It was a 2 floor, 1500 sq. ft. apt, with a remarkable view of the Remarkables. Lovely view, lovely new furniture, balcony, kitchen, fireplace, free laundry. Who could ask for anything more?

For dinner, we went into town at 8PM, but since it was Easter, most restaurants were full. We got a table at Tatlers (5) where the food and service were unremarkable and overpriced. The charges for bread and water were obscene. We went to a supermarket and got fixin's for 3 breakfasts.

First morning in QT we drove to the bungy-jumping site (9) where there was a steady stream of jumpers. Fascinating. Then to Arrowtown for a walk around this metropolis and lunch at The Bakery (7).

Back to QT, a 1 mile walk along the Frankton path to town, walking around forever for T-shirts for the grandkids, and yarn for Arline. Then sitting around the huge living area for an hour with a nice glass of Shiraz discussing life. Wouldn't it be nice if we could do this forever?

Everyone wanted pasta so we went to Avanti (3) for average food and poor service. Driving around was difficult since it was dark, rainy, streets were narrow and confusing, getting lost, trying to find a parking space, and maneuvering the left-side lanes, roundabouts, giveways, and the drivers in back of me who who were cursing those damn tourists who don't know how to drive. Oh well! Thankful we got back unscathed, we hit the sack.

Third day we went to the afternoon Dart River Jet trip (8), then to Boardwalk (8) for an expensive dinner. Each time we drove into town, we found parking, and just before we left, we had some sense of the town layout.

Tim_and_Liz

Jed- Great report so far! I assume since you rated the Dart River Jet Boat an 8, you would recommend it? How was the scenery? Was it really cold on the boat?
Liz

Jed

Anything 8 or above is very good. 6-7 is good, 5 or below is fair or less.

Yes, I would recommend it, but I am not sure that it is better than the Shotover Jet. And of course it is much more expensive.

The jet ride itself was very good, the ride out and walks were good. There was a stop to point out some of the 'Rings'
locations.

Scenery was very good. The boat ride was not cold, but you got wet unless you sat by the driver, even though they gave you a raincoat.

dotty

Hi, Jed,
I am really enjoying the wonderfully descriptive turn of phrase you are using to relate your trip. It is always so interesting to see my country, and particularly parts of the country that I really love, through others' eyes. Look forward to your next chapter.

Jed

Part 6 - On the briny

Next AM we drove to Manapouri to get on the Doubtful Sound overnight (8). It was hard to find Real Journey's pier, but suffice it to say you make a left when you get to the Manapouri-Te Anaua road. We left our luggage in the office, parked the car in the overnight lot nearby, got sandwiches downstairs, then took our overnight pack on the launch to the bus to the boat. We did not go to the power station. We were given cabin 15 which, along with 14, were the only 2 of (?)16 to have an obscured view. Since the boat was almost full, we were unable to change. If you want a bigger and better cabin, ask for one with an inside door.

As soon as the kayak availability was announced, those in the know were ready, and we had to wait for the second shift. Then we got into the kayaks and had to paddle 2 km to catch the boat which moved after we left. It was quite arduous for two old farts who never kayaked before, and with some rough seas, it became frightening, and for a few minutes we thought we were not going to make it (especially Arline.) But we persisted (what else could we do?) and caught up with the ship, thoroughtly wet and exhausted. These were cured by a hot shower and a beer.

Beautiful clear sunset. Supper was scheduled for 7:30, but people began sitting in the booths at 6:30, knowing they were at a premium. Food was good. Then a slide show, lecture, and good look at the stars topside, because we had a clear sky. Saw the southern cross , Orion's belt, milky way, etc.

In the morning, the boat sailed the fjord's arms, then back to Manapouri at noon. We drive up to Te Anau, had lunch at at Pop-In Catering (3), then 2PM Glowworm cave visit (9). Surprisingly, the 2PM tour became full for that day and the next, so it should be booked beforehand if it is important.

Jed

Part 7 - The good, the bad, and the ugly

Drove 2 1/2 hr to Invercargill, got 2 rooms at Balmoral Lodge (8). This was the only place we did not book beforehand. The units were 2 stories, with a small bed, lounge, kitchen and spa bath on the first floor, and a king bed on the second floor loft without bathroom. It was clean, new, and comfortable, but a strange layout. We ordered a continental breakfast which was delivered soon after, and which we put in the fridge. Dinner at King's (8), with fair service. Arline said that the bluff oysters were the best. ;-)

Friends had said that they had a wonderful experience at Catlins Wildlife Trackers near Papatowei, so we had booked 2 rooms for 2 nights. We drove 2 1/2 hr on the Southern Scenic Route to the Mohai Lodge, one of a few lodges which Mary and Fergus Sutherland owned. Contrary to official SSR pronouncement, it was almost, but not completely, paved.

The Mohai Lodge was listed as having 2 bedrooms and a library with 2 divans. The 2 bedrooms were indeed lovely, but to our distress, M&F were given the library room, which was small, musty, with awful beds, no outside windows, or place to unpack. The second bedroom was given to a young couple who came after us. When I protested and said that it was unacceptable, Mary said that her other rooms were full. I was ready to leave right then, but we decided to stay for 1 night because we really wanted to do the program.

That morning and afternoon we did several lovely beach and forest walks with a good guide. The next morning we woke up at 5AM, and went to Resolution Bay at Nugget Point, in order to see a group of yellow-eyed penguins emerge from their nightly resting areas onshore and go to sea for the day. Sure, enough, by the dawn's early light, small groups emerged from a cave above the beach, waddled down and into the waiting waves. That was one highlight of our trip, and made staying the night worth it. Then a picnic breakfast, more beach walks and to a lighthouse with a beautiful view of the south seas. We left after lunch. For what we did, a (9.5), for the accommodations and how we were treated, a (1).

Chenoa

Hi Jed,

As I follow your report, I'm recalling my own trip. I started out a week earlier than you, so was spending my Easter in the catlins. NZ is so beautiful, isn't it?

I agree with the Fox Glacier Hike being a (10). We also went up along the track from Terminal Walk cos of some landslide/falling boulder in the rainforest track.

Our regret is that we had stormy weather in the catlins. (That night, the power tripped at Curio Bay area, it was 6pm thereabouts and we were without electricity and water supply for a few hours. This is evidence of the strength of the weather.)
Hence, we were unable to spot penguins at Porpoise / Curio Bay. We made up for it by paying to see the blue penguins at Oamaru. To me, that's a (9).
I'm waiting to hear more!

Jed

Part 8 - Dunedin Dalliance

On to Dunedin for milder activity. We stayed at Hulmes B&B (9), actually at Hulmes Too (next door), had the Ocean room, a large, bright room with a wierd bathroom. M&F had the Balcony room which was large but shared a bathroom with another room. Since that was the only other on the floor and remained unoccupied, they had in effect a private bathroom. The Victorian and Garden room, while being ensuite, were less desirable. The staff was exceptionally accommodating. It was close to the Octagon, and the only detraction was that the street was unappealing.

A short walk downhill to Nova and an especially good dinner (9). Next AM, took the tour of Speights brewery and beer tasting (7). Had lunch at Croque-a-dial (8) on Princes St., drove to Baldwin St., (6), the world's steepest St, went to Otago Museum (9), then dinner at Etrusco (8).

Looking back at our South Island days, we were lucky that we had only 2 days of significant rain, and only minimal inconvenience, although it was cold at times.

Bailey

Jed,
Excellent report... rating by numbers is a brilliant idea!! Right to the point!

We leave on 27th April for a month in NZ. I'm taking notes!!
Here are photos from our last trip to NZ
www.pbase.com/baileyzim/newzealand

Jed

Part 9 - Double, double toil and trouble;
Fire burn and cauldron bubble.

Next morning we left our car at DUD airport, took a wind-delayed flight to Rotorua. Picked up a Mitsubishi Diamonte, (not as good as Holden). We stayed at Westminster B&B (8), a very attractive place in the hills overlooking the city. The house and grounds were well-maintained. They had an attachment to their home with 2 small ensuite rooms (7) and plain furniture. Owners Jill and Barry Gillette were very friendly. Arline fed and petted the sheep, talked to and kissed the parrot, and greeted the cows and chickens ~gt;.

We went to the Polynesian Spa where we got a private spa (3). The wood was rotting, the tile was moldy, and the walls were detiorating. At least the water was hot.

For dinner we wandered around the deserted downtown and found the Amazing Thai Restaurant (8).

Up early next morning for a good breakfast and then to Waitopu Thermal Reserve (9) where we took the 45 minute walk with geysers, bubbling mud pools, colorful geothermal waters . Then to Maori Arts and Crafts Institute for a 1 hr guided walk to see the carving, weaving, and Whaka... (9). For the evening we went to the Matai hangi (8), a small hangi of about 200 people, where you could see that the food was actually cooked in the ground. The Maori culture show and food were good.

Next day we drove to see the Waitomo glowworm caves (9), which was different from the Te Anau caves. We stayed at the Kauri Lodge (8) near Otorohanga for a 'farmstay'. This was a private home on a large farm with 2 small rooms (7) in a separate section, with 2 bathrooms down the hall. The view was beautiful and John Loveridge showed how his dog would move his cows and sheep. After a soak in the spa, Marion served a delicious lamb dinner. We declined to wake up early enough to milk the cows.

Jed

Part 10 - Grand finale

On to AKL where we had reserved a Grand corner suite at Quay West Suites (9.5). This was a 2 bedroom, 2 bath, 1150 sq ft area on the 21st fl., with medium sized rooms and a good sized lounge, kitchen, balcony, washer and drier. Lest you think this was extravagent, the cost per couple per day including cooked breakfast was a sensational US$125. The staff was excellent and responded to our questions and needs. Also, it was in the center of town which was great.

We gave in our car and said a prayer, being thankful that I drove over 1000 miles without a scratch, although there were several times when I aimed for the wrong side of the street.

We walked along Queen St, had dinner at Kermadec (7) for seafood, than a soak in the spa at Quay. Good breakfast the next morning, then the free bus to the Sky Tower (9). Up to the main observation level to see people get into harnesses and slide down a 630 ft wire to the street. The extra charge to go higher to the "Sky Deck' was not worth it.

We were going to take the Explorer bus, but realized that the 'Link' was a better deal. The Explorer costs $30 a day and makes 14 stops where you can get on and off at will. The link costs $1.30 each time you get on, so you can get 23 rides for the cost of the Explorer, and the Link stopped at most places we wanted.

We took the Link bus to the Auckland Museum (8) to see the Maori exhibit and the 30 minute Maori culture show (7). Link to 'K' street shopping area (4), then walked 1.5 mile down from the top of Queen St. to QW, stopping along the way for a street fair of arts and crafts.

Dinncer at Cin Cin (3) was a problem. 3 had good meals, but Arline's main was awful and overpriced. Also, service was bad. The waiter did not respond to the problem, so I complained to the manager, and the charge was removed. After, we walked along Quay St where the bars were loaded with mostly young people drinking to ear-splitting music noise.

Next day we took the ferry (8) to Devonport (6), walked up and down the few streets. Final dinner at O'Connel St. Bistro (9), small and elegant.

Last day we took the Link to Parnell to see the shopping area (7). Cab to airport ($55).

And as we flew into the sunset, we bid a hearty goodbye to this island paradise.

Epilogue - Many thanks to the great people on this forum who gave much information, enthusiasm, and confidence to have a successful experience.

ElendilPickle

It sounds like you all had a wonderful time. Thanks for the enjoyable, detailed trip report!

Lee Ann

Tim_and_Liz

Yes, thank you Jed!