re

We plan to visit New Zealand this March. We are an older couple who have been fortunate to visit many parts of the world. This is our first visit to New Zealand - we are walkers not trackers, want to see cities and countryside, a few museums, plan to drive and may take a train from Wellington to Christchurch. For planning, I have been using the wonderful information found on this forum as well as several tour books. So many choices, it is difficult to decide where to visit - hopefully I can get some answers from this forum. 1. Heading south from Dunedin to Te Anau we would like to take the Southern Scenic Route - how far down the coast should we go and how many days should we allow? 2. If we take the Southern Scenic Route should we also stop at Otago Peninsula? 3. Take a cruises on both Milford and Doubtful sound? 4. Is there a walk that allows us to see the face of Fox or Franz Josph glacier? 5. After glacier visit should we overnight at Greymouth or Arthur's Pass Village - the drive back to Christchurch maybe too far. I appreciate your help. Thanks

Melnq8

<plan to drive and may take a train from Wellington to Christchurch.>

Assume you mean ferry and train?

<Heading south from Dunedin to Te Anau we would like to take the Southern Scenic Route - how far down the coast should we go and how many days should we allow?>

Depends on what you want to see. If you want a through look you should consider driving all the way to Invercargill (and possibly Bluff), stopping to spend a few nights en route in the Catlins.

We've found that 3-4 full days is sufficient time to hit the highlights (and walk) both the north and south Catlins.

However, the Southern Scenic Route also extends from Invercargill to Riverton and then up to Manapouri. This leg is often overlooked by visitors, yet it offers a lot to do as well, particularly if you like to walk. Here you'll find Southern Fiordland; Lake Monowai, Lake Hauroko, The Hump Ridge Track and the Southern Coastal Track. You'll also find lots and lots of sandflies!

<Take a cruises on both Milford and Doubtful sound?>

Not unless you have time to spare.

<Is there a walk that allows us to see the face of Fox or Franz Josph glacier?>

Yes, you can walk to the terminal face of both glaciers (about an hour's walk return to each). You can't get really, really close, due to safety issues, but you can certainly get a feel for both. There are also many other walks in the area that allow you to view of the glaciers from different vantages points. There are also guided glacier walks ON Fox Glacier. Last I heard, Franz Josef was closed to guided walks due to glacier movement, but it's still open (and safe) for independent walks to the terminal face.

<After glacier visit should we overnight at Greymouth or Arthur's Pass Village - the drive back to Christchurch maybe too far.>

I always recommend at least two nights at the glaciers - that allows one full day to explore. It's a very long drive day to Wanaka/Queenstown from the glaciers and a long drive day from the glaciers to Christchurch, although less to Arthur's Pass about 3.5 hours). There's so much to see en route, that advertised drive times are generally woefully inaccurate.

Diamantina

I'm sure you meant the ferry from Wellington to Picton and then the train to Christchurch from there. The train to Christchurch also stops in Kaikoura, where sperm whales, Dusky Dolphins and NZ Fur Seals can be seen. It's also a lovely spot on the water, with a mountainous backdrop.
http://www.whalewatch.co.nz/our-tour...al-information

I live in Dunedin, so I am biased as I am well acquainted with its natural beauty, which is best appreciated during good weather, which you're likely to encounter in March. I would say visit the Otago Peninsula, drive its high road (Highcliff Rd.) and its low road (Portobello Rd.) for good views, visit the Royal Albatross Colony, the Southern Hemisphere's only mainland albatross nesting colony (endangered Northern Royal Albatross), and take a late afternoon tour of Penguin Place, a sanctuary for the endangered Yellow-Eyed Penguin. It is also possible to visit a Little Blue Penguin colony at Taiaroa Head; these penguins come ashore as the last light of day is on the horizon. Endangered New Zealand Hooker's Sea Lions can be see on Otago Peninsula beaches. If the waters are calm, a boat ride on the Monarch Cruise can be highly enjoyable. The boat leaves from Dunedin's downtown waterfront or from the penisula.
http://www.albatross.org.nz/
http://www.doc.govt.nz/conservation/...atross-colony/

re

Melnq8 Thank you for the fast reply. Yes, ferry and Train to Christchurch. Doubtful or Milford sound - do you have a preference? Diamantina Thank you for your help. How many days should I figure for Dunedin and Otago Peninsula. Should we stay in Dunedin and drive out to the peninsula for the day? Can you recommend a hotel/motel or B&B in Dunedin. I like close in locations that allow us to walk to restaurants.

Diamantina

Other links for the Otago Peninsula:
http://www.penguinplace.co.nz/
http://www.wildlife.co.nz/
You will be coming to these areas of the South Island in the nick of time. Anadarko, the oil company that owned a 25% stake in the Macondo oil well responsible for the Deepwater Horizon Oil Spill, will start drilling for oil and gas off Dunedin in February. It is not known how this will impact the future of the area's wildlife. Other companies also plan to drill for oil and gas off Kaikoura, Marlborough, and off Invercargill and Stewart Island.

You are walkers, not trackers, so are steep but short tracks out of the question? Because if steep inclines do not bother you, I recommend a short walk to Tunnel Beach, if the weather is good while you are in Dunedin. The view is fantastic. It only takes about 10 minutes to get down to the beach, but about 20 minutes to walk back up. People of all ages, shapes and sizes, can be seen walking here (including nearly 59-year-old me). Tunnel Beach is also on the Southern Scenic Route as you head south from Dunedin.
http://www.newzealand.com/int/featur...beach-walkway/
http://www.pleasetakemeto.com/new-ze...ay/information

Even if you are not planning on hiking, a pair of walking shoes or hiking boots with good tread will come in handy. Please don't be like my friend who came here with with white sneakers! She's traveled more than anyone I've known, but her footwear was completely inadequate for even easy walks.

If you are following the Southern Scenic Route, from Tunnel Beach continue south along the coastal road through Waldronville and Brighton until you reach Taieri Mouth, where you then turn inland to Lake Waihola (this way you avoid the ugly freeway). From Lake Waihola, continue south to the Catlins. If you need a rest stop, there are picnic tables and restrooms near the lakeshore. There's also a popular fish and chips shop here.

Dunedin's city sites are also worth visiting. The Otago Museum has excellent natural history displays ("Southern Land, Southern People"); on each visit I manage to learn something new about this unique environment and its endemic wildlife. The fossil collection is especially impressive. Dunedin's 28-hectare Botanical Garden is also beautiful, especially on a sunny day. Of course, don't miss the Railway Station. Toitu Settlers Museum is just a few steps away, and the City Art Gallery is a few blocks away on the Octagon.
http://www.dunedinnz.com/visit/home
http://www.otagomuseum.govt.nz/exhib...uthern-people/
http://www.dunedinbotanicgarden.co.nz/about

I would recommend at least two nights in the Catlins (part of the Southern Scenic Route), which is also a terrific area for wildlife viewing.

Melnq8

<Doubtful or Milford sound - do you have a preference?>


Not really. I've been to Doubtful once, Milford six or seven times, but only because it's easier (and cheaper) to get to and I enjoy walking.

IMO the Milford Road is the highlight of the journey, not the cruise.

Regardless of what the tour operators are trained to say, there's nothing quite like a sunny day in Milford Sound. Waterfalls are no substitute.

If possible, don't book until you know what the weather has in store.

Diamantina

I'm sorry, I typed up my last entry as you were posting your questions about accommodations in Dunedin. I will try to get back to you on the different areas in a few hours.

I can't recommend specific hotels based on personal experience because as I live in Dunedin, I have never stayed in local hotels or motels, but if you find a recommended accommodation on Trip Advisor, I can certainly give you my opinion of its location and its proximity to local sites. I often walk by many of these accommodations.

I recommend at least three nights in Dunedin as this will give you two full days, one to enjoy the peninsula and another to visit central city attractions. It really depends on your interests and on the weather. If the weather is poor, you'll be relieved you just spent just a couple of days here, but, as I said before, March generally brings some of the best weather. (However, we've had a terrible summer so far, they like to describe it as "unsettled" or "springlike.") So you never know.

Even in poor weather, inner city attractions can be enjoyed as these are mainly indoor activities (museums, Speight's Brewery, Cadbury Chocolate Factory, Olveston House). Penguin Place on the peninsula has covered trenches and hides from which you view the penguins, who don't care if it's rainy, cold or windy. You'll also view the albatrosses at the Royal Albatross Colony from a hide and therefore protected from the elements.

Please have a look at the official Dunedin city website that I posted above, to get an idea of the city attractions as I might have omitted mentioning something of particular interest to you. For instance, rail fans might be interested in the Taieri Gorge Railway. Birdwatchers will want to visit the Orokunui Ecosanctuary on Dunedin's West Harbor. And so on.

Diamantina

re, if you'd like to walk to restaurants, your best choice for Dunedin accommodation would be near the Octagon, the city's center.

Here are the Dunedin's main areas for lodging:

City center. Pros: No need to pay for downtown parking because you can easily walk to City Art Gallery, Railway Station, Toitu Settlers Museum, Speight's Brewery (brewery tour), Cadbury Chocolate Factory (factory tour), I-Site Tourism office, shops, supermarkets, galleries, restaurants. From the Octagon, it's a few minutes drive, 8-block walk, or short bus ride to the Otago Museum (parking is free if you park a block away). It's about a 5-minute drive to the Botanical Garden, 10-minute drive to Signal Hill (city views) or Baldwin St. (steepest street), about a 15-minute drive to the start of the Otago Peninsula (55 minutes to Taiaroa Head), 10-minute drive to St. Clair Beach. If you do a peninsula wildlife tour with Elm Wildlife Tours or Monarch Cruises, they'll pick you up from the I-Site office or your accommodation, so you won't need to drive to the peninsula (though you can see more if you drive). Cons: Busiest part of the city densely packed with buildings, some streets are noisy due to traffic. On cruise ship days, the city center gets crowded. Academic semester starts in February (20,000 students at the University of Otago, 3,800 at Otago Polytechnic).

Otago Peninsula. Pros: Serene, quiet, pretty rural surroundings, sea or ocean views, close to peninsula attractions. Accommodation can be found in Portobello village, at Larnach Castle, and scattered around the peninsula. Cons: Few places to dine. It's a half hour drive to the city center.

St. Clair Beach. Pros: By the beach, away from the busy downtown area, but not as isolated as the peninsula. It's just one block with three hotels/motels and five restaurants. Some accommodations have ocean views (especially nice at sunrise). There is a heated outdoor pool above the beach (open Oct. through end of March). If you stay here, Elm and Monarch still will pick you up from your accommodation. It's a 10-minute drive to Tunnel Beach. Cons: It is not walking distance to any other attractions. It's a 10-15 minute drive to downtown or the start of the Otago Peninsula.

Hope this helps you to choose.

re

Diamantina Thanks so much for all the information. I am going to look up St Clair Beach; area sounds lovely.

Diamantina

You're welcome. I doubt you'll have to book too far in advance for March. Wotif.com has good rates, particularly for last minute bookings.

re

Diamantina The drive from Christchurch to Dundedin appears to be 5 hours on SH1. With a stop in Oamani and maybe Timoru, is it too much for 1 day. Another question for you as well as Melnq8 - from Fox Glacier are we better to head back to Christchurch via Arthur's pass or is mileage and driving time similar if we go from Greymouth north thru Reefton, Murcheson, Blenheim ending in Picton. I figure it is a 2 day drive either way.

Melnq8

re -

Do be aware the east coast of the SI is the most un-scenic part of the entire SI. Timaru is an industrial town with little of interest for tourists. The stretch of SH1 between Oamaru and Christchurch is about as un-interesting as you can get. I strongly suggest you pick another route.

According to the mileage charts the drive times from Fox-Arthur's Pass to Christchurch is similar to Greymouth-Reefton-Murchison-Blenheim-Picton. Both routes have a lot to offer, just depends on what interests you.

re

Melnq8 You have made my decisions much easier. It is very difficult to decide which way to go just based on tour book recommendations. Your trip reports and answers to so many questions give me great guidance. Thanks

Diamantina

re, the scenic route between Christchurch to Dunedin would be the inland route by way of Geraldine-Lake Tekapo-Lake Pukaki-Twizel-Omarama-Waitaki Valley-Duntroon-then returning to the East Coast at Oamaru. From Oamaru, you'll continue south (much of it along the coast) 100 minutes or so, to Dunedin. This inland route takes longer than the East Coast route that takes you Christchurch-Timaru-Oamaru, but presumably, you'd break up the journey by staying somewhere along the way, such as Lake Tekapo.
http://www.newzealand.com/int/featur...route-planner/

I don't know the exact dates for your trip, other than it will start in March, but this inland route is spectacularly beautiful in autumn (by mid-April), when the leaves turn gold and amber. Autumn is also a gorgeous time for touring the Central Otago wine region. So if you will still be here by then, maybe you could reverse your planned route, leaving this drive for last. The days become shorter and colder by then, darkness comes earlier, but if you overnight in Lake Tekapo and are lucky to be there on a clear night during a new moon, waning or waxing crescent moon, you can go skygazing. So an earlier, longer night is not necessarily a bad thing. School vacations start in mid-April, but I think you will have left by then.
http://www.tekapotourism.co.nz/featu...t_reserve.html
You can just look up into the sky yourself after dark, or do a tour with an astronomer through Mt. John Observatory. We chose to do the cheaper Cowan Observatory tour, not only to save money, but because we wanted to be in a smaller group. Afterall, we'd be looking up at the same stars!
http://earthandskynz.com/earthandsky...ght_tours.html
I'd urge you to drive up to Mt. John Observatory during the day as well, because the view is breathtaking, especially after a fresh dusting of snow. I have been told by friends that the man-made Tekapo Springs hot pools is a great place to pass part of the evening (they stay open until 9).
http://www.tekaposprings.co.nz/tekapo-springs-hot-pools

This route is already scenic, but there are few side trips/scenic stops you can take along here. From the Lake Pukaki scenic overlook, you could, if you have the time, take a side trip to Mt. Cook Village, which from the overlook is about (I may be off) a 55 km./30 mile drive along Lake Pukaki's shoreline. There is no exit, so you'd have to have to exit the same way you entered--but what a road!
http://www.newzealand.com/int/featur...ing-locations/
http://www.tourism.net.nz/new-zealan...rch/day-3.html

While Aoraki Mt. Cook's summit is at 3724 metres (according to the most recent survey), Mt. Cook Village is only at an elevation of 747 metres, so you needn't worry about adjusting to altitude. Aoraki's apex is often covered by clouds (its Maori name is often loosely and slightly inaccurately translated as "cloud piecer"). But it's lovely when you get a chance to see the cap of clouds clear.
You could stay in Mt. Cook Village as an alternative to Lake Tekapo. We stayed at http://www.aspencourt.co.nz/aorakicourt/ last May and I can recommend it. It's well equipped for self catering, or you can dine at the nearby Hermitage Hotel.

Another detour worth taking is that from Duntroon to Oamaru via the tiny town of Weston. It only takes a few minutes longer, but takes you through an interesting landscape of limestone cliffs, strange geological formations, and old fossil sites. This is part of the new Alps to Ocean cycle trail.
http://www.glentanner.co.nz/wp-conte...-to-Oamaru.pdf
http://www.otago.ac.nz/geology/resea...shedworld.html

Old Town Oamaru, with its old Victorian whitestone buildings, is lovely. It has an unattractive, slow-going strip-mall-like downtown, but you can avoid it by following the above route instead. Oamaru is also known for its Blue Penguin Colony and its YEP viewing hide at Bushy Beach.

Another place you can stop is Moeraki, about a half hour drive south of Oamaru on the way to Dunedin. The Moeraki Boulders are considered a geological wonder, but my favorite spot is the Katiki Point Lighthouse and Pa, and its Yellow Eyed Penguin viewing hide (in March or April, you wouldn't be able to see the penguins until late afternoon). This would be a little out of your way as you would have turn in toward (but not go all the way into) Moeraki village. You'd have to spare at least hour for this side trip. Fleur's Place in Moeraki village is one of the area's most popular dining spots. I think the food is a bit over-priced, but it's setting is quaint and Fleur (the person) is charming. Maybe stop in for a light snack and a drink. On weekends, reservations are often necessary.
http://www.newzealand.com/int/featur...fine-food-art/
Riverstone Cafe at the northern end of Oamaru has also won
accolades.
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-rec...raki-boulders/

I could mention other scenic spots between Moeraki and Dunedin, but I don't know how much time you'll have.

annhig

aha - the dreaded "comments have been removed" post strikes again.

What happened here? so many NZ threads seem to have ben targeted - but by whom?

Melnq8

I went on a orange triangle spree the other night annhig - the same poster had spammed several forums multiple times with a Viet Nam visa advertisement.

annhig

aha - I guessed as much. There was a hawaii accommodation advertiser doing the same sort of thing recently.

bornintheusa

Diamantia---can you tell me about the fish and chips shop you mentioned...is it in Lake Waihola and can you tell me the name of it or where I might find it....