see_the_world7

I enjoyed your trip report and read all the way through. We didn't make it to the north part of the south island at all. There was just too much to fit in and not enough time.

Melnq8

Thank you. I feel your pain, there's never enough time.

Melnq8

The photos:

http://tripwow.tripadvisor.com/tripw...5-fd24-3af4?lb

kim711

Hooray! I finally had time to read all of this. So many memories in here, and so many new places to check out next time we go.

I would never be able to wait so long for our next visit to NZ without these wonderful reports, Mel. Your fearless winter trip has made me think it might not be so bad to go during the "low" season. Except of course for the sandflies. It didn't even occur to me that they would be bad in the WINTER......

We're trying the Maritimes this year, but we want to get back to NZ next year. It's been too long! Thanks for these wonderful reminders of why we need to go again.

I can't imagine driving some of the roads you did in the winter. But sitting in the car while they clear away debris from the road is always a good time to read up on what's next and to study the map for other possibilities....especially if there is coffee in the car.

Too bad you didn't get to see any snow up close. It must be hard to go so long without it.

Melnq8

Thank you Kim, I'm happy to hear at least two people managed to read the whole thing!

We love off season travel...in fact we actively avoid peak season. As for the sandflies, well, they're not bad in the cooler months, but they're definitely still there. Fortunately, there are fewer of them and they seem to be slower.

yentakvetch

Looks like there is a lot more to NZ than I saw on my two trips there. Need to return!

mlgb

I read it Melnq8. Feeling rather depressed at the prices for eating out and not convinced it's worth returning for an 8th(?) time. I've now discovered Peru which satisfies my culinary and travel desires at a lesser impact on the wallet. Always good to look at your photos though.

Melnq8

I can relate mlgb. New Zealand certainly isn't the deal it used to be and the state of the US dollar is downright scary (we remember a few trips when the NZ $ = .40 US). From an American point of view, NZ has Australian prices with a better exchange rate (for the time being anyway).

margo_oz

Great report, Mel

Need to fit more of NZ in again!

tomarkot

Melnq8, we read and really enjoyed your trip report. We "took notes" on a lot of the places you stayed and restaurants you liked. Thanks for sharing your experiences.

Melnq8

Thanks tomarkot - hope it helps.

aggie15

I thoroughly enjoyed your trip report Melnq8. I am planning a trip to NZ in the next month. I will be flying into Christchurch and was wanting some advice. I am spending 2 weeks total, and am thinking about taking the Trans Scenic to Greymouth, then taking a car from there. When I went to NZ last year, some of the roads were challenging and a bit unnerving for me, specifically the drive toward Glenorchy from Queenstown. Also the drive from Auckland to the black sands beach was particularly scary. Alot of winding roads, with drop-offs on one side, and rock walls on the other side, and sometimes these roads narrow down to a single lane! My question to you is, did you encounter roads like this on your trip? It sounds like driving to Takaka was long and challenging. I want to explore the West Coast, Nelson, and Marlborough regions, but I want to avoid some of those long and treacherous drives. Thanks in advance!

mlgb

The drive from Glenorchy to Queenstown is relatively mild as things go! I think you will find ANY road that crosses over a mountain range unnerving if those two bothered you (and most do to get anywhere scenic.) I'm not sure where to send you!! Maybe Melnq8 can help.

Melnq8

Hi aggie15 -

I agree with mlgb that the road to Glenorchy is pretty mild. It was a bit freaky driving it at night, but that's because I knew the lake was mere meters away (on my side of the car) and it was so incredibly dark. During the day, the greatest hazard is losing one's concentration by getting distracted by all that incredible scenery.

If winding roads with drop offs unnerve you, you're doing the right thing by taking the train over Arthur's Pass, as the road could be a challenge for you.

The road over Takaka Hill is very winding, but it's not particularly long and the drop offs are more gradual than sheer - the curves are very tight, so you can't drive it particularly fast - it takes about 30-40 minutes to cross. After crossing the hill, the road is straight and pretty much flat as a pancake. The same holds true for the approach to the hill from the Motueka/Nelson side - the roads through there aren't bad, as long as you stick to the main ones.

I'm not a huge fan of curvy roads myself (I tend to get ill), but I've found I handle them better when I'm the driver, not the passenger.

Gosh, I don't know what to tell you. The SI is chockablock with narrow, winding roads. You'll want to avoid some of the areas we intentionally seek out, like French Pass, roads up to ski areas (like Mt Hutt) and the road to/from Waikawa Bay/Port Underwood. But those are roads the average tourist wouldn't drive anyway - they're well off the beaten path - we just tend to seek out obscure places that others wouldn't.

The West Coast has plenty of winding roads, but they're so worth it - it's gorgeous.

The most level, straightest road on the SI that I know of is the road to Karamea.

I don't think I've helped you much, aggie, but good luck, I hope you have a fantastic trip.

aggie15

You helped me indeed, and thank you for taking the time to reply. I travel solo, and I like the same activities that you do, i.e. hikes and out of the way places. I just found that after tramping on the order of 8 to 10 hours per day, then trying to drive somewhere solo the next day was a bit much on particular roads, particularly where roads have blind spots and narrow down to a single or a 1 1/2 wide lane. Thanks again you two, mlgb and Melnq8. It was you two that inspired me to go to NZ for the first time last year!

Basic rough itenerary so far:
Fly into Christchurch
Trans scenic from Christchurch to Greymouth
Greymouth to Hokitika
Hokitika to Westport (maybe to the first leg of the Heaphy Track)
Westport to Murchison
Murchison to Golden Bay (town undetermined)
Nelson Region (town undetermined)
Marlbourough Region (Blenheim?)
Kaikoura
Christchurch and fly out.

Melnq8

I don't think I'd be up for any kind of driving after 8-10 hours of hiking!

I assume you know that the Heaphy Track starts at Karamea and ends near Collingwood (or vice versa). It's a 1:20 drive from Westport to Karamea.

A stay in Murchison is on my wish list for our next visit to the SI - there appear to be several tracks in the vicinity and it's such a pretty area. Do you have your eye on a specific track?

I highly recommend walking the Abel Tasman from Totaranui towards Wainui. Most walkers stop at Totaranui as that's the end of the line for water taxi services, but the track keeps going. And don't miss a 4x4 tour of Farewell Spit (from Collingwood)- most visitors never get that far north and it's well worth the time involved.

For track access, I'd suggest Picton or a place within the sounds over Blenheim, which IMO is an uninspiring town (but full of lovely wineries!)

I ran across several obscure tracks within the Marlborough Sounds while researching our last trip, but most have some logistical issues and no doubt some narrow squiggley roads.

aggie15

I just picked Blenheim because I found an accomodation in the Lonely Planet guide that lets you rent bikes to visit the various winery's in the vicinity. Thanks for the drive time from Westport to Karamea! It is difficult to find drive times in the various travel guides. On the Heaphy, I would probably drive to Karamea and hike for one day, camp, and then walk back out in the other direction. If I do the full lenght of the Heaphy I think it would take too much time since I'm trying to cover alot of ground on only 2 weeks. I will let you know the particular hike I take out of Murchison once I decide or get back. Funny you mentioned Farewell Spit, I thought about doing that too, but I may save that and Collingwood for the next trip due to time constraints. I'm thinking about driving to Picton, and renting a mountain bike for the Marlborough Sound track to be able to cover the full length of the track in a shorter time. I thought of renting a kayak and finding a semi-remote island in Marlborough sound to camp for a night. I enquired to an outfitter via email but haven't heard anything back yet. I also thought about D-Urville island as one of those out of the way places. Also thinking about the Nydia track. Decisions, decisions! Which tracks were you thinking of in the Marlborough Sounds?

Melnq8

Back to those squiggly roads...access to D'Urville Island is via French Pass, which is probably the most squiggly road I've been on in NZ...and it's a long drive, about 1:45 on unsealed roads (rough and rocky). I'm not aware of any other way to get there. It's most likely a rental car violation too.

The drive from Picton to Anakiwa (for access to the QCT) on Queen Charlotte Drive is also a winding road and it's not short, but you can get there via water taxi, which might be what you're planning to do (?)

I'll look to see if I can find the details on the Marlborough Sounds hikes I ran across. Nydia was one of them.

I'd also looked into Arapawa Island, but there were just too many logistical issues.

I use this travel distance calculator when planning my trips to the SI and I've found it fairly accurate:

http://www.aatravel.co.nz/main/td-calculator.php

aggie15

The travel distance calculator is exactly what I need to nail down the rest of my itenerary, thank you! I am not totally adverse to squiggly roads. The main thing that can be frustrating is starting out on what looks like a 2 hour drive, and it winds up being 6 hours! I may wing the 2nd 1/2 of the trip, and just naild down the first 1/2, starting on the west coast. I am pretty sure I am going to bring hiking equipment into the country to do camping and multi-day hikes. This will involve more planning, but I think it will be worth it.

Melnq8

Sounds like a promising trip aggie. I'd love to hear all about when you return.