Chasing the Long White Cloud: A Winter Trip to the South Island of NZ
Jul 9th, 2011, 03:29 PM
#22
“If this is an easy track, I’ll eat my shorts”…
It’s funny how starting at sea level skews one’s impression of elevation. Arthur’s Pass is situated at 920 meters, some 3,018 feet, half the elevation of our hometown in Colorado, yet somehow it feels much higher.
Our first stop is the Visitor’s Center, where we collect a walking map and watch the antics of a Kea in the parking lot.
We’re soon walking the track to Devil’s Punchbowl Falls, just north of the village. It’s cold and windy; the sun hasn’t yet crested the mountains; I’m wondering if I should have worn my long underwear. Three hundred and forty-four steps later, we’re at the base of the 131 meter waterfall, peeling off our jackets. It’s a nice path, steep, but immaculately maintained (~one hour return, 1.3 miles).
By 11 am the temperature has risen to a whopping 5c (41F). We drive three kilometers north and set out on the Bealey Valley Track, under the impression it will be easy. The track begins innocuously enough, leading us across the Bealey River at the Chasm and through a tussock clearing, complete with boardwalk and stunning mountain views, before disappearing into the forest, where things get a bit rough. Here we scramble over wet roots and rocks, wondering if we’ve lost the track. We slowly pick our way across the river again (no bridge) and picnic at the base of gorgeous snow covered Mt Rolleston. A marker further up the riverbed suggests that the track continues, but I’ve no interest in breaking an ankle climbing over river rock, so we call it good. This track is puzzling...it’s a real mixed bag; it doesn’t match its description, perhaps due to the upgrades and repair work in progress.
On the way back we detour, exploring a couple of unmarked spurs, one of which climbs straight up and offers fantastic views of the entire mountain range.
As we return to the car park we see a sign for the Dobson Nature walk, so we follow the easy path through the forest, alongside and over the highway and back. The views are great, but roadside tracks don’t interest us much (total walk time for Bealey Valley and Dobson tracks – 2.5 hours, 4 miles, ~6.5 km).
Next up is the Otira Viaduct lookout for some dramatic views. Seeing the viaduct from above makes me appreciate what an engineering feat it truly is. The wind is blowing like mad up here, it’s icy cold.
After a coffee at Arthur’s Chalet it’s back to the cottage to start the fire. We’d freeze our tails off without the fire.
Dinner finds us in the Wobbly Kea again; customers glued to the television, reading the news crawl. Christchurch has had two more aftershocks today, 6.0 and 5.5. It’s cold inside too, everyone in the restaurant dines with their jackets on. Bill wisely chooses the chicken curry, spicy and excellent ($22.50); it’s tomato soup for me, also good ($10).
It’s funny how starting at sea level skews one’s impression of elevation. Arthur’s Pass is situated at 920 meters, some 3,018 feet, half the elevation of our hometown in Colorado, yet somehow it feels much higher.
Our first stop is the Visitor’s Center, where we collect a walking map and watch the antics of a Kea in the parking lot.
We’re soon walking the track to Devil’s Punchbowl Falls, just north of the village. It’s cold and windy; the sun hasn’t yet crested the mountains; I’m wondering if I should have worn my long underwear. Three hundred and forty-four steps later, we’re at the base of the 131 meter waterfall, peeling off our jackets. It’s a nice path, steep, but immaculately maintained (~one hour return, 1.3 miles).
By 11 am the temperature has risen to a whopping 5c (41F). We drive three kilometers north and set out on the Bealey Valley Track, under the impression it will be easy. The track begins innocuously enough, leading us across the Bealey River at the Chasm and through a tussock clearing, complete with boardwalk and stunning mountain views, before disappearing into the forest, where things get a bit rough. Here we scramble over wet roots and rocks, wondering if we’ve lost the track. We slowly pick our way across the river again (no bridge) and picnic at the base of gorgeous snow covered Mt Rolleston. A marker further up the riverbed suggests that the track continues, but I’ve no interest in breaking an ankle climbing over river rock, so we call it good. This track is puzzling...it’s a real mixed bag; it doesn’t match its description, perhaps due to the upgrades and repair work in progress.
On the way back we detour, exploring a couple of unmarked spurs, one of which climbs straight up and offers fantastic views of the entire mountain range.
As we return to the car park we see a sign for the Dobson Nature walk, so we follow the easy path through the forest, alongside and over the highway and back. The views are great, but roadside tracks don’t interest us much (total walk time for Bealey Valley and Dobson tracks – 2.5 hours, 4 miles, ~6.5 km).
Next up is the Otira Viaduct lookout for some dramatic views. Seeing the viaduct from above makes me appreciate what an engineering feat it truly is. The wind is blowing like mad up here, it’s icy cold.
After a coffee at Arthur’s Chalet it’s back to the cottage to start the fire. We’d freeze our tails off without the fire.
Dinner finds us in the Wobbly Kea again; customers glued to the television, reading the news crawl. Christchurch has had two more aftershocks today, 6.0 and 5.5. It’s cold inside too, everyone in the restaurant dines with their jackets on. Bill wisely chooses the chicken curry, spicy and excellent ($22.50); it’s tomato soup for me, also good ($10).
Jul 10th, 2011, 05:25 PM
#25
Yet another pretty drive…
The wind howls throughout the night, drowning out the sound of passing trains; I almost expect snow. We leave Arthur’s Pass under gloomy skies, thankful that our tramping day was sunny. The road is sanded; it’s a wee bit frosty. Visibility is poor as we drive west on 73, directly into the fog and rain. The clouds begin to lift and it greens up significantly as we re-enter the West Coast, turning onto Lake Brunner Tourist Drive at Jacksons. We cross a wide river; thin wispy clouds hover above and cling to the tree covered mountains along the fringe, the sky a pale blue…I love this; I can’t seem to get enough photos.
Lake Brunner appears to our left, and we’re soon passing through Moana, not sure if we’ve been on this road before. At Stillwater we turn onto SH 7 towards Reefton, the Grey River to our left, everything else green, green, green, the clouds overhead constantly moving and endlessly fascinating. We enter the Buller District at Ikamatua, one of the driest places on the West Coast, boasting 300-500 mm less rain per year than any main coastal town. My hometown gets 411 mm of rain and snow a year…if it’s lucky. Funny thing about the SI…if they go without rain for 3-4 days, they think they’re in drought.
I’ve got a hankering for ice cream, so we stop in Reefton for a bit of Tip Top, the same old boring vanilla for Bill, chocolate and Hokey Pokey for me ($7, two scoops each). Craving satisfied, we move on, joining SH 6, easing our way along the Buller River to Murchison, passing New Zealand’s longest swing bridge. We knew this place long before it became a paid attraction; to us it will forever be the Sandfly Bridge, where we both got chewed to bits many moons ago. We stop at Beechwood Café in Murchison, nothing on the menu appeals, so we round the corner and luck into Rivers Café. Cute place this, eclectic and full of character…good food and coffee too. Breakfast Bill goes for the Eggs Bennie ($14), chicken noodle soup for me ($12).
http://www.rivers.co.nz/cafe.htm
Back on SH 6 we drive through Kahurangi National Park, sections of forest bare from logging, others replanted in rows of identical trees, symmetrical and odd. Hope Saddle predictably brings more squiggles and hairpin turns. We’re soon entering the farming community of Korere, once again amongst rolling hills and bright green countryside. The traffic picks up as we approach Wakefield, passing fruit producers and olive groves. Six hours after leaving Arthur’s Pass we pull into the driveway of Milcrest Estate in Hope, our digs for the next three nights. My review can be found here:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...th_Island.html
Once settled, we set out to explore, a bit overwhelmed by the traffic and general busyness, which is funny considering urban Richmond/Nelson only has a population of about 60,000. We wander the streets going everywhere and nowhere. We find Nelson city center, park and wander some more. We have dinner at an old favorite, Little India (yes, Indian again). The food is excellent. Bill proclaims his Chicken Tikka Masala the best of the trip and my Paneer Shimla Mirch is pretty darn good too (two curries, rice, garlic naan, one glass of wine each - $54). The ‘busy’ streets of Nelson have rolled up by the time we leave town at 6:30 pm.
The wind howls throughout the night, drowning out the sound of passing trains; I almost expect snow. We leave Arthur’s Pass under gloomy skies, thankful that our tramping day was sunny. The road is sanded; it’s a wee bit frosty. Visibility is poor as we drive west on 73, directly into the fog and rain. The clouds begin to lift and it greens up significantly as we re-enter the West Coast, turning onto Lake Brunner Tourist Drive at Jacksons. We cross a wide river; thin wispy clouds hover above and cling to the tree covered mountains along the fringe, the sky a pale blue…I love this; I can’t seem to get enough photos.
Lake Brunner appears to our left, and we’re soon passing through Moana, not sure if we’ve been on this road before. At Stillwater we turn onto SH 7 towards Reefton, the Grey River to our left, everything else green, green, green, the clouds overhead constantly moving and endlessly fascinating. We enter the Buller District at Ikamatua, one of the driest places on the West Coast, boasting 300-500 mm less rain per year than any main coastal town. My hometown gets 411 mm of rain and snow a year…if it’s lucky. Funny thing about the SI…if they go without rain for 3-4 days, they think they’re in drought.
I’ve got a hankering for ice cream, so we stop in Reefton for a bit of Tip Top, the same old boring vanilla for Bill, chocolate and Hokey Pokey for me ($7, two scoops each). Craving satisfied, we move on, joining SH 6, easing our way along the Buller River to Murchison, passing New Zealand’s longest swing bridge. We knew this place long before it became a paid attraction; to us it will forever be the Sandfly Bridge, where we both got chewed to bits many moons ago. We stop at Beechwood Café in Murchison, nothing on the menu appeals, so we round the corner and luck into Rivers Café. Cute place this, eclectic and full of character…good food and coffee too. Breakfast Bill goes for the Eggs Bennie ($14), chicken noodle soup for me ($12).
http://www.rivers.co.nz/cafe.htm
Back on SH 6 we drive through Kahurangi National Park, sections of forest bare from logging, others replanted in rows of identical trees, symmetrical and odd. Hope Saddle predictably brings more squiggles and hairpin turns. We’re soon entering the farming community of Korere, once again amongst rolling hills and bright green countryside. The traffic picks up as we approach Wakefield, passing fruit producers and olive groves. Six hours after leaving Arthur’s Pass we pull into the driveway of Milcrest Estate in Hope, our digs for the next three nights. My review can be found here:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...th_Island.html
Once settled, we set out to explore, a bit overwhelmed by the traffic and general busyness, which is funny considering urban Richmond/Nelson only has a population of about 60,000. We wander the streets going everywhere and nowhere. We find Nelson city center, park and wander some more. We have dinner at an old favorite, Little India (yes, Indian again). The food is excellent. Bill proclaims his Chicken Tikka Masala the best of the trip and my Paneer Shimla Mirch is pretty darn good too (two curries, rice, garlic naan, one glass of wine each - $54). The ‘busy’ streets of Nelson have rolled up by the time we leave town at 6:30 pm.
Jul 10th, 2011, 11:39 PM
#26
Live the day…
We wake to a clear sunny day and a nice view of the estate’s vineyard. We’re out the door by 9 am; we’ve got a long drive ahead. The plan is to drive to French Pass on the western side of the Marlborough Sounds, described as “the most scenic drive in the country”. The idea came about while studying my South Island map looking for places we’d not yet visited. We hemmed and hawed about where to base ourselves for a visit to French Pass, finally settling on Hope.
We locate SH 6 and head to Nelson, soon driving along the pretty waterfront. We leave Tasman Bay behind and head inland towards Hira and Whangamoa, winding through mountainous Hira Forest along new blacktop, smooth as a baby’s butt. The highway feels like a tightly wound spiral; we’re tossed from side to side as we work our way up to the Rai Saddle summit, once again appreciative of New Zealand’s banked roads. I’m reminded that we’ll be making this drive again when we head to Picton in a few days.
We stop at Mt Richmond Estate near Rai Valley. I’m anxious to check the place out, as it was one of the contenders for our three nights in the area. We enjoy a flat white in their café, Foresters, and thumb through the reading material, a copy of Pig Hunter magazine. Hmmm… The proprietor is kind enough to show us through one of the units, which would have worked out nicely.
Forty-five minutes after leaving Nelson, we turn off towards Elaine Bay, where we study a sign of myriad confusing options. It appears that French Pass is a one hour, 40 minute drive from here. We continue through pastures, rolling hills, and some areas completely devoid of trees due to logging. The road is typically curvy; it quickly becomes seriously narrow, clinging freakishly close to the edge of the road. The sheer drop offs on the left side of the car wig me out.
Spotting a track sign, we pull off and walk the Goat Hill Track, an undulating path that leads to an overlook and gives us a taste of what’s in store (30 minutes, one mile return). We continue our drive to Okiwi Bay, amazed at the 100 kilometer per hour speed limit signs back here; we’re barely doing 50 and still have to slow for the countless tight turns. Okiwi Bay is a quiet little community with pretty bay views, but bigger than either of us expected given the challenges of getting to it. We continue, driving 17 kilometers to Elaine Bay via the Moncreiff Scenic Reserve, passing the sad remains of a forest that has been logged to death. Apiaries are everywhere; we pass two men wrapped head to toe in protective clothing collecting bee hives and putting them on a truck. I wouldn’t want that job.
We reach a fork in the road; one tine leads to Elaine Bay, the other to French Pass. We head down to Elaine Bay first, finding yet another peaceful bayside community. We turn back and take the unsealed road to French Pass, soon dodging large rocks, worried we’ll puncture a tire, and wondering what we’ve gotten ourselves into. We continue anyway, ever curious about what lies ahead. We break free of the forest, finding ourselves on roadway which has been cut into the side of the peninsula, its tentacles stretching deep into the sounds. We’re precariously perched on the edge of the terraced hillside, it’s freaky, but the views are spectacular. We’re surrounded by deep blue water, lush green pasture and perpetually bent trees. It’s so windy that I can’t open the car door at one point, not that I really want to, considering the drop off on the other side.
The road is paved again as we make our stomach dropping descent into the tiny village of French Pass, home to the narrow and treacherous stretch of water separating the mainland from D’Urville Island. If you’re looking for remote and isolated, this is the place. The wind is fierce and icy. We chat up a friendly Kiwi on the dock awaiting his boat to D’Urville Island; he’s going there to conduct pregnancy tests on sheep.
To get a sense of this drive, take a look here:
http://www.wises.co.nz/l/Croisilles-...173.842485/16/
We make the long journey back, sighing in relief when we reach the asphalt of SH 6. I’ve had my fill of squiggly roads, but we’re curious about the Cable Bay Walkway, so we take the turnoff to Happy Valley to investigate. Eight kilometers of skinny winding road later, we’re studying the Cable Bay Walkway information board and watching the full moon rise over the mudflats of the bay.
It’s been a long day; our explorations have taken us 8.5 hours, most of it driving. This being a tourist is hard work.
A cheerful sign that says “Live the Day” greets us as we re-enter Nelson. We park the car (.50 an hour, what a deal!) and have a nice dinner at the Indian Café on Collingwood Street. The place is hopping, the food and service is very good; we leave completely stuffed (one appetizer, two curries, rice, garlic naan, two beers and two glasses of wine - $63).
We wake to a clear sunny day and a nice view of the estate’s vineyard. We’re out the door by 9 am; we’ve got a long drive ahead. The plan is to drive to French Pass on the western side of the Marlborough Sounds, described as “the most scenic drive in the country”. The idea came about while studying my South Island map looking for places we’d not yet visited. We hemmed and hawed about where to base ourselves for a visit to French Pass, finally settling on Hope.
We locate SH 6 and head to Nelson, soon driving along the pretty waterfront. We leave Tasman Bay behind and head inland towards Hira and Whangamoa, winding through mountainous Hira Forest along new blacktop, smooth as a baby’s butt. The highway feels like a tightly wound spiral; we’re tossed from side to side as we work our way up to the Rai Saddle summit, once again appreciative of New Zealand’s banked roads. I’m reminded that we’ll be making this drive again when we head to Picton in a few days.
We stop at Mt Richmond Estate near Rai Valley. I’m anxious to check the place out, as it was one of the contenders for our three nights in the area. We enjoy a flat white in their café, Foresters, and thumb through the reading material, a copy of Pig Hunter magazine. Hmmm… The proprietor is kind enough to show us through one of the units, which would have worked out nicely.
Forty-five minutes after leaving Nelson, we turn off towards Elaine Bay, where we study a sign of myriad confusing options. It appears that French Pass is a one hour, 40 minute drive from here. We continue through pastures, rolling hills, and some areas completely devoid of trees due to logging. The road is typically curvy; it quickly becomes seriously narrow, clinging freakishly close to the edge of the road. The sheer drop offs on the left side of the car wig me out.
Spotting a track sign, we pull off and walk the Goat Hill Track, an undulating path that leads to an overlook and gives us a taste of what’s in store (30 minutes, one mile return). We continue our drive to Okiwi Bay, amazed at the 100 kilometer per hour speed limit signs back here; we’re barely doing 50 and still have to slow for the countless tight turns. Okiwi Bay is a quiet little community with pretty bay views, but bigger than either of us expected given the challenges of getting to it. We continue, driving 17 kilometers to Elaine Bay via the Moncreiff Scenic Reserve, passing the sad remains of a forest that has been logged to death. Apiaries are everywhere; we pass two men wrapped head to toe in protective clothing collecting bee hives and putting them on a truck. I wouldn’t want that job.
We reach a fork in the road; one tine leads to Elaine Bay, the other to French Pass. We head down to Elaine Bay first, finding yet another peaceful bayside community. We turn back and take the unsealed road to French Pass, soon dodging large rocks, worried we’ll puncture a tire, and wondering what we’ve gotten ourselves into. We continue anyway, ever curious about what lies ahead. We break free of the forest, finding ourselves on roadway which has been cut into the side of the peninsula, its tentacles stretching deep into the sounds. We’re precariously perched on the edge of the terraced hillside, it’s freaky, but the views are spectacular. We’re surrounded by deep blue water, lush green pasture and perpetually bent trees. It’s so windy that I can’t open the car door at one point, not that I really want to, considering the drop off on the other side.
The road is paved again as we make our stomach dropping descent into the tiny village of French Pass, home to the narrow and treacherous stretch of water separating the mainland from D’Urville Island. If you’re looking for remote and isolated, this is the place. The wind is fierce and icy. We chat up a friendly Kiwi on the dock awaiting his boat to D’Urville Island; he’s going there to conduct pregnancy tests on sheep.
To get a sense of this drive, take a look here:
http://www.wises.co.nz/l/Croisilles-...173.842485/16/
We make the long journey back, sighing in relief when we reach the asphalt of SH 6. I’ve had my fill of squiggly roads, but we’re curious about the Cable Bay Walkway, so we take the turnoff to Happy Valley to investigate. Eight kilometers of skinny winding road later, we’re studying the Cable Bay Walkway information board and watching the full moon rise over the mudflats of the bay.
It’s been a long day; our explorations have taken us 8.5 hours, most of it driving. This being a tourist is hard work.
A cheerful sign that says “Live the Day” greets us as we re-enter Nelson. We park the car (.50 an hour, what a deal!) and have a nice dinner at the Indian Café on Collingwood Street. The place is hopping, the food and service is very good; we leave completely stuffed (one appetizer, two curries, rice, garlic naan, two beers and two glasses of wine - $63).
Jul 11th, 2011, 02:13 AM
#27
I am loving your trip report Mel it is bringing back lots of memories. I lived in Darfield for three years when I was a teenager, my Dad was the local Postmaster at the time. My Mum was born near Staveley and often talked about ice-skating there as a kid.
My DH and I live in Richmond, 5 minutes walk from the shopping centre, and my son in law's grandmother and great grandparents farmed on D'Urville Island for many years. His great grandfather came from the island of Stromboli off the coast of Italy to be a fisherman at D'Urville but also farmed there as well. My SIL's great grandmother came to D'Urville from Strombolli as a 16 year old to marry her 2nd cousin who was 33. My SIL's father Gerard Hindmarsh has written a book called Angelina from Strombolli to D'Urville Island about his grandmother and her life on D'Urville Island it is a fascinating book.
A lot of Nelson/Tasman residents have holiday homes at Okiwi Bay, and Elaine Bay.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
My DH and I live in Richmond, 5 minutes walk from the shopping centre, and my son in law's grandmother and great grandparents farmed on D'Urville Island for many years. His great grandfather came from the island of Stromboli off the coast of Italy to be a fisherman at D'Urville but also farmed there as well. My SIL's great grandmother came to D'Urville from Strombolli as a 16 year old to marry her 2nd cousin who was 33. My SIL's father Gerard Hindmarsh has written a book called Angelina from Strombolli to D'Urville Island about his grandmother and her life on D'Urville Island it is a fascinating book.
A lot of Nelson/Tasman residents have holiday homes at Okiwi Bay, and Elaine Bay.
Looking forward to the rest of your report.
Jul 11th, 2011, 03:22 AM
#28
Thank you nelsonian. I actually thought of you when we were in Nelson - I knew you lived there, but I didn't realize it was Richmond. Heck, we should have met up for a coffee.
Just today I saw a reference to Angelina on the French Pass Sea Safaris website. I just might have to add that to my reading list!
Just today I saw a reference to Angelina on the French Pass Sea Safaris website. I just might have to add that to my reading list!
Jul 11th, 2011, 08:44 PM
#29
Whose bright idea was this?
It’s a cold, crisp 6c as we work our way via SH 6 to the community of Glenduan, some 30 minutes from our accommodation and 12 km from Nelson City. The information board at Cable Bay indicates that the walkway can be accessed from either end, so we figure we’ll walk from Glenduan to the airstrip and return, making a loop. We park at the beach and walk up through the neighborhood to the start of the Cable Bay Walkway. Holy Moly…this track doesn’t mess around; it immediately begins to climb. We walk at a 45 degree angle up grassy sheep pasture, huffing and puffing. Those innocuous looking rolling hills suddenly don’t look so innocuous. As we climb, we’re rewarded with views of the coast, farmland, mountains, and a wee bit of Nelson City. From the lookout above the airstrip, it gets even better – 360 degree views - lovely. We return via a much-less-challenging 4x4 road, still through pasture, but not nearly as steep, for which my knees are eternally grateful (2:45, just over four miles, ~6.5 km).
We’ve earned a treat, so it’s back to Nelson for a hot chocolate at Cocoa on Hardy Street ($6 each). We’re told their hot cocoa is made with 1/3 melted chocolate and milk - full cream no doubt. It’s wonderful, how could it not be? We poke around town for a bit - check e-mail, get a haircut, etc. Bill’s craving a late lunch at Little India; I don’t have any better ideas, so that’s where we go, more Chicken Tikka Masala for him ($18), a Paneer Aloo Tikka starter for me ($9). It’s still good. Then it’s back to our accommodation to relax in our cozy digs. We have a nice chat with co-owner Terry, who’s been out in the vineyard pruning the vines. He shows us his pruning equipment and demonstrates exactly how it’s done. This is a privately owned boutique vineyard and the bulk of the work falls to him; operating a vineyard is definitely a labor of love.
It’s a cold, crisp 6c as we work our way via SH 6 to the community of Glenduan, some 30 minutes from our accommodation and 12 km from Nelson City. The information board at Cable Bay indicates that the walkway can be accessed from either end, so we figure we’ll walk from Glenduan to the airstrip and return, making a loop. We park at the beach and walk up through the neighborhood to the start of the Cable Bay Walkway. Holy Moly…this track doesn’t mess around; it immediately begins to climb. We walk at a 45 degree angle up grassy sheep pasture, huffing and puffing. Those innocuous looking rolling hills suddenly don’t look so innocuous. As we climb, we’re rewarded with views of the coast, farmland, mountains, and a wee bit of Nelson City. From the lookout above the airstrip, it gets even better – 360 degree views - lovely. We return via a much-less-challenging 4x4 road, still through pasture, but not nearly as steep, for which my knees are eternally grateful (2:45, just over four miles, ~6.5 km).
We’ve earned a treat, so it’s back to Nelson for a hot chocolate at Cocoa on Hardy Street ($6 each). We’re told their hot cocoa is made with 1/3 melted chocolate and milk - full cream no doubt. It’s wonderful, how could it not be? We poke around town for a bit - check e-mail, get a haircut, etc. Bill’s craving a late lunch at Little India; I don’t have any better ideas, so that’s where we go, more Chicken Tikka Masala for him ($18), a Paneer Aloo Tikka starter for me ($9). It’s still good. Then it’s back to our accommodation to relax in our cozy digs. We have a nice chat with co-owner Terry, who’s been out in the vineyard pruning the vines. He shows us his pruning equipment and demonstrates exactly how it’s done. This is a privately owned boutique vineyard and the bulk of the work falls to him; operating a vineyard is definitely a labor of love.
Jul 12th, 2011, 03:14 PM
#30
Squiggles, cow poop and wood smoke…
We’ve arranged a wine tasting with our host before our departure. We’ve already established that I like their Sauvignon Blanc and Bill likes their Pinot Noir, but we’re anxious to try their other wines as well. Terry treats us to a personal wine tasting and another long chat, giving us the low down on the business. We leave with their Pinot Noir and Syrah; the Pinot actually makes it back to Perth with us.
We take SH 6 to 60, pointed towards Motueka. Before long we’re detouring to the cellar door of Te Mania/Richmond Plains, a short visit that has us leaving with a bottle of Te Mania Reserve Pinot Noir, which is stashed away for a special occasion.
Back on 60 we forge on, but not for long, quickly distracted by the Ruby Bay/Mapua Scenic Route. We park at the Mapua Wharf and explore for a bit. We buy some hot smoked salmon at the Smokehouse (which Bill enjoys more than the cold smoked salmon from Mt Cook) and call in at the Naked Bun Bakery for coffee and calories. Bill tries the Spanakopita, which he says is excellent. I predictably go for something chocolate, in this case an éclair with a decadently dense chocolate filling, oo-la-la…no complaints here ($20.80 total with two flat whites). We take a couple of their chocolate filled croissants with us for the next day’s breakfast ($5 each and worth every penny).
We ramble on, taking the turnoff at McKee Memorial Reserve to soak up the bay views and admire an eclectic assortment of campers, most of which have smoke billowing from their chimneys. We pass art studios, orchards, and honesty fruit stands, eventually re-joining 60. A giant manmade kiwi catches our eye; we flush it out, a sign advising that it’s Prowdaby, the world’s largest permanently sited kiwi.
Our meander resumes, taking us through Motueka and past mandarin laden trees. We make the six kilometer detour to Kaiteriteri, only to be distracted by a sign to Little Kaiteriteri, which we follow down to the beach. Neither of us remembers being here, we’re a bit surprised by all the humongous homes. We park at the beach and follow the path to Stephen’s Bay, taking in the views along the way (35 minute return, uphill both ways).
We’re soon driving through Kaiteriteri and continuing on to Marahau. The unbanked roads are squiggly as all get out, yet the speed limit is 100 kph. Yikes. We notice several B&Bs as we pass through woodsy and gorse-strangled Kaiteriteri Forest.
That this area has one of the largest tidal ranges in NZ is glaringly obvious, the tide is out; the boats stranded in the sandy bay look sad and forlorn, particularly in the somber flat light. There’s more to Marahau than I remember, several homes and bachs, a camping area, water taxi operators, even a café.
Back on 60, we complete our loop as we turn right and work our way towards Takaka, soon crossing Takaka Hill, aka Marble Mountain, tossed from side to side as we work our way through the seemingly endless curves and hairpin turns. There was a time that this drive made me miserably carsick, but oddly, I’ve not had any problems this trip.
Poor weather discourages us from exploring any tracks along the way. Instead, we plug along, cresting the 791 km summit of Takaka Hill, and then making the squiggly descent to Golden Bay. On a clear day the views are fabulous, but unfortunately, not today.
Crossing Takaka Hill takes us 30 minutes. The road mercifully straightens out as we drive through Upper Takaka, spotting a shoe fence and some rather scrawny cows. Rain is predicted for the next two days; we optimistically collect some walking maps from the Visitor’s Center, and then set about locating our accommodation. Although we’ve not been here for over three years, Bill sniffs out Ashlea Downs in no time; he must have a built-in compass.
I’ve not been able to get Ashlea Downs listed on either Fodor’s or TA, so here’s an overview:
http://www.ashleadowns.co.nz
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This was our fourth stay at this peaceful self-contained cottage, which is located on a beef and dairy farm above Takaka. The cottage has two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and a wood burning stove in the lounge. It’s well fitted out with plenty of reading lamps, a washing machine, electric heaters, and a large shower in the bathroom. It’s clean, warm and comfortable and has a patio that offers expansive views of the countryside and valley. Owners Stuart and Lynley are helpful and friendly while completely respecting the privacy of their guests.
---
We had a good meal at the Brigand on a previous trip, so that’s where we go for dinner. Bill has the fish of the day, salmon, which is served with some type of sauce and vegetables ($31) – he says it’s excellent. I opt for the vegetarian curry, also excellent, and surprisingly spicy ($24). As we devour our dinner we discuss how good the food has been on this trip. We recall some decidedly mediocre meals during previous visits; we both have memories of tearooms, spongy white bread sandwiches, endless piles of chips and nachos, too sweet ketchup (okay, so that hasn’t changed), and an overall lack of flavor. Has the food improved, has our budget increased, or are we just making better choices? Hmmm…
The smell of cow poop and wood smoke permeate the air. We retreat to our warm cottage to hunker down for the night.
We’ve arranged a wine tasting with our host before our departure. We’ve already established that I like their Sauvignon Blanc and Bill likes their Pinot Noir, but we’re anxious to try their other wines as well. Terry treats us to a personal wine tasting and another long chat, giving us the low down on the business. We leave with their Pinot Noir and Syrah; the Pinot actually makes it back to Perth with us.
We take SH 6 to 60, pointed towards Motueka. Before long we’re detouring to the cellar door of Te Mania/Richmond Plains, a short visit that has us leaving with a bottle of Te Mania Reserve Pinot Noir, which is stashed away for a special occasion.
Back on 60 we forge on, but not for long, quickly distracted by the Ruby Bay/Mapua Scenic Route. We park at the Mapua Wharf and explore for a bit. We buy some hot smoked salmon at the Smokehouse (which Bill enjoys more than the cold smoked salmon from Mt Cook) and call in at the Naked Bun Bakery for coffee and calories. Bill tries the Spanakopita, which he says is excellent. I predictably go for something chocolate, in this case an éclair with a decadently dense chocolate filling, oo-la-la…no complaints here ($20.80 total with two flat whites). We take a couple of their chocolate filled croissants with us for the next day’s breakfast ($5 each and worth every penny).
We ramble on, taking the turnoff at McKee Memorial Reserve to soak up the bay views and admire an eclectic assortment of campers, most of which have smoke billowing from their chimneys. We pass art studios, orchards, and honesty fruit stands, eventually re-joining 60. A giant manmade kiwi catches our eye; we flush it out, a sign advising that it’s Prowdaby, the world’s largest permanently sited kiwi.
Our meander resumes, taking us through Motueka and past mandarin laden trees. We make the six kilometer detour to Kaiteriteri, only to be distracted by a sign to Little Kaiteriteri, which we follow down to the beach. Neither of us remembers being here, we’re a bit surprised by all the humongous homes. We park at the beach and follow the path to Stephen’s Bay, taking in the views along the way (35 minute return, uphill both ways).
We’re soon driving through Kaiteriteri and continuing on to Marahau. The unbanked roads are squiggly as all get out, yet the speed limit is 100 kph. Yikes. We notice several B&Bs as we pass through woodsy and gorse-strangled Kaiteriteri Forest.
That this area has one of the largest tidal ranges in NZ is glaringly obvious, the tide is out; the boats stranded in the sandy bay look sad and forlorn, particularly in the somber flat light. There’s more to Marahau than I remember, several homes and bachs, a camping area, water taxi operators, even a café.
Back on 60, we complete our loop as we turn right and work our way towards Takaka, soon crossing Takaka Hill, aka Marble Mountain, tossed from side to side as we work our way through the seemingly endless curves and hairpin turns. There was a time that this drive made me miserably carsick, but oddly, I’ve not had any problems this trip.
Poor weather discourages us from exploring any tracks along the way. Instead, we plug along, cresting the 791 km summit of Takaka Hill, and then making the squiggly descent to Golden Bay. On a clear day the views are fabulous, but unfortunately, not today.
Crossing Takaka Hill takes us 30 minutes. The road mercifully straightens out as we drive through Upper Takaka, spotting a shoe fence and some rather scrawny cows. Rain is predicted for the next two days; we optimistically collect some walking maps from the Visitor’s Center, and then set about locating our accommodation. Although we’ve not been here for over three years, Bill sniffs out Ashlea Downs in no time; he must have a built-in compass.
I’ve not been able to get Ashlea Downs listed on either Fodor’s or TA, so here’s an overview:
http://www.ashleadowns.co.nz
---
This was our fourth stay at this peaceful self-contained cottage, which is located on a beef and dairy farm above Takaka. The cottage has two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and a wood burning stove in the lounge. It’s well fitted out with plenty of reading lamps, a washing machine, electric heaters, and a large shower in the bathroom. It’s clean, warm and comfortable and has a patio that offers expansive views of the countryside and valley. Owners Stuart and Lynley are helpful and friendly while completely respecting the privacy of their guests.
---
We had a good meal at the Brigand on a previous trip, so that’s where we go for dinner. Bill has the fish of the day, salmon, which is served with some type of sauce and vegetables ($31) – he says it’s excellent. I opt for the vegetarian curry, also excellent, and surprisingly spicy ($24). As we devour our dinner we discuss how good the food has been on this trip. We recall some decidedly mediocre meals during previous visits; we both have memories of tearooms, spongy white bread sandwiches, endless piles of chips and nachos, too sweet ketchup (okay, so that hasn’t changed), and an overall lack of flavor. Has the food improved, has our budget increased, or are we just making better choices? Hmmm…
The smell of cow poop and wood smoke permeate the air. We retreat to our warm cottage to hunker down for the night.
Jul 12th, 2011, 03:21 PM
#31
Rainy day noshing…
We wake to rain and wind, as promised. Not your average rain and wind mind you, but torrential, satellite disrupting rain, and patio-furniture-launching wind.
We heat up those chocolate croissants from the Naked Bun; they may be a day old, but boy are they good! Not only are they iced with chocolate, they’re generously filled with chocolate, which when warmed, oozes out with every buttery bite. The chocoholic is in heaven… We need to burn off some of those calories, but this isn’t the kind of weather one wants to venture out into. So, we stay indoors and read, flinching every time another patio chair takes flight.
When the storm finally abates just a wee bit, we wander out for lunch, ending up at an old favorite, Penguin Café in Pohara, entertained by a chatty waitress who fills us in on local dairy prices, organic farming and self-sufficiency. She also tells us it doesn’t rain much in Takaka, just two or three times a week. Huh. I guess that’s not much for a country that measures rain in meters.
Bill’s back on his breakfast kick, ordering Eggs Bennie, I have potato leek soup – both are good ($34 with a beer and a coffee).
We wander around town, but most businesses are closed on this Saturday afternoon. We luck into an open video store/internet café, so we catch up with e-mail. Our last stop is Wholemeal Café, where we warm up with coffee and a shared slice of cake, chocolate of course - $14 total – yum. It finally stops raining, just in time to get dark.
We wake to rain and wind, as promised. Not your average rain and wind mind you, but torrential, satellite disrupting rain, and patio-furniture-launching wind.
We heat up those chocolate croissants from the Naked Bun; they may be a day old, but boy are they good! Not only are they iced with chocolate, they’re generously filled with chocolate, which when warmed, oozes out with every buttery bite. The chocoholic is in heaven… We need to burn off some of those calories, but this isn’t the kind of weather one wants to venture out into. So, we stay indoors and read, flinching every time another patio chair takes flight.
When the storm finally abates just a wee bit, we wander out for lunch, ending up at an old favorite, Penguin Café in Pohara, entertained by a chatty waitress who fills us in on local dairy prices, organic farming and self-sufficiency. She also tells us it doesn’t rain much in Takaka, just two or three times a week. Huh. I guess that’s not much for a country that measures rain in meters.
Bill’s back on his breakfast kick, ordering Eggs Bennie, I have potato leek soup – both are good ($34 with a beer and a coffee).
We wander around town, but most businesses are closed on this Saturday afternoon. We luck into an open video store/internet café, so we catch up with e-mail. Our last stop is Wholemeal Café, where we warm up with coffee and a shared slice of cake, chocolate of course - $14 total – yum. It finally stops raining, just in time to get dark.
Jul 12th, 2011, 04:33 PM
#32
The weather has changed much in Golden Bay over the last few weeks. Heavy rain, strong winds, thunder and lightening. Yesterday there was a light dusting of snow on Takaka hill.
Little Kaiteriteri and Stephens Bay are where all the rich people live Mel!!!!
Little Kaiteriteri and Stephens Bay are where all the rich people live Mel!!!!
Jul 12th, 2011, 04:42 PM
#33
Yeah, I figured nelsonian, although Stephen's Bay looked much more moderate. We only saw it from the beach though.
The owner of Ashlea Downs told us the weather had been weird in Golden Bay this year - he said a friend of his in Bainham had reported three meters of rain. No wonder it's so green!
The owner of Ashlea Downs told us the weather had been weird in Golden Bay this year - he said a friend of his in Bainham had reported three meters of rain. No wonder it's so green!
Jul 13th, 2011, 10:07 PM
#34
New discoveries…
A ferocious turd floater during the night doesn’t bode well for walking, but by morning it’s merely wet and overcast. We optimistically don our rain gear, stop at Wholemeal Café for a pre-walk breakfast, and then head 20 kilometers northeast of Takaka to Wainui Bay via Abel Tasman Drive. Our plan is to walk the 30 minute Wainui Falls track; we figure the falls should be impressive after all the rain. But it’s not to be; five minutes in we come upon a ford that’s impossible to cross without getting our feet soaking wet, so we turn back. We drive back towards Pohara, turn at Clifton and explore the Grove Scenic Reserve instead. Here an easy track leads through a tunnel of limestone rock to a viewing platform. It’s wet and a bit creepy, but it’s a nice little reserve (15 minutes, ½ mile loop).
We next head towards Collingwood, noticing cows in the yard of the high school as we pass through Takaka. The pastures are full of standing water; the rivers are swollen to near bursting. There are a lot of arts and crafts studios through here, and of course sprawling Fonterra Diary, which is pretty hard to miss.
We drive 22 kilometers north of Takaka and locate Milnthorpe Park, a scenic reserve and reforestation project where non-native trees have been planted in an attempt to quickly regenerate the area. We have a walking map that I printed before we left Perth; it really comes in handy. There are about 30 intersecting tracks through here; we walk 11 of them, most of them easy, but the odd track is muddy, slippery and treacherous due in part to the wet conditions. As we work our way through the jungle-like forest, we can’t help but think if that we were in OZ, we’d be covered in leeches. (2.5 hours, ~four miles – Mitch’s Loop and Bellshill are the most challenging of the 11 we walked).
Back in the car, we drive to the thriving metropolis of Collingwood, and drive right back out, there’s not much to it. We see a sign for Rockville and Bainham; the vet we met in French Pass had mentioned a café near Bainham and we know that the Kaituna Track is back here, so we decide to investigate. We wander through the country, alongside flooded pasture, through intermittent rain. We turn off onto unsealed road, and follow the signs to the Naked Possum Café, situated on the edge of the Kahurangi Forest, directly across the road from the Kaituna Track. The Naked Possum’s mission is to eradicate the brush tail possum and restore the rata forest – it’s an intriguing place in a gorgeous area. We relax on the deck with flat whites and a bowl of chips ($14) and soak up the atmosphere. Our visit takes places 10 days after the death of one of the owners; a lovely tribute to him is on display at the cafe.
http://www.nakedpossum.com/
It’s raining, but we can’t pass up the opportunity to walk at least a bit of the track, so we walk as far as the old Kaituna gold workings. We both almost fall on our butts as we cross the wooden footbridge; it’s wet and slippery as ice. The track leads through native forest past a cave, water races and former gold sluicing operations. It’s a nice walk, incredibly green and dark (no sun) and rather muddy (45 minute return, 1.7 miles).
It begins to rain in earnest as we drive back to Takaka, effectively ending our walking day.
It’s back to the Brigand for an encore dinner. Bill has the house specialty, barbecued ribs in a sickly sweet plum sauce ($26.50). I ask how they are and get that familiar head bob which translates to “eh, so-so, could be better”. I feel the same way about my potato, bacon and leek soup ($11). The Brigand fails to impress tonight.
A ferocious turd floater during the night doesn’t bode well for walking, but by morning it’s merely wet and overcast. We optimistically don our rain gear, stop at Wholemeal Café for a pre-walk breakfast, and then head 20 kilometers northeast of Takaka to Wainui Bay via Abel Tasman Drive. Our plan is to walk the 30 minute Wainui Falls track; we figure the falls should be impressive after all the rain. But it’s not to be; five minutes in we come upon a ford that’s impossible to cross without getting our feet soaking wet, so we turn back. We drive back towards Pohara, turn at Clifton and explore the Grove Scenic Reserve instead. Here an easy track leads through a tunnel of limestone rock to a viewing platform. It’s wet and a bit creepy, but it’s a nice little reserve (15 minutes, ½ mile loop).
We next head towards Collingwood, noticing cows in the yard of the high school as we pass through Takaka. The pastures are full of standing water; the rivers are swollen to near bursting. There are a lot of arts and crafts studios through here, and of course sprawling Fonterra Diary, which is pretty hard to miss.
We drive 22 kilometers north of Takaka and locate Milnthorpe Park, a scenic reserve and reforestation project where non-native trees have been planted in an attempt to quickly regenerate the area. We have a walking map that I printed before we left Perth; it really comes in handy. There are about 30 intersecting tracks through here; we walk 11 of them, most of them easy, but the odd track is muddy, slippery and treacherous due in part to the wet conditions. As we work our way through the jungle-like forest, we can’t help but think if that we were in OZ, we’d be covered in leeches. (2.5 hours, ~four miles – Mitch’s Loop and Bellshill are the most challenging of the 11 we walked).
Back in the car, we drive to the thriving metropolis of Collingwood, and drive right back out, there’s not much to it. We see a sign for Rockville and Bainham; the vet we met in French Pass had mentioned a café near Bainham and we know that the Kaituna Track is back here, so we decide to investigate. We wander through the country, alongside flooded pasture, through intermittent rain. We turn off onto unsealed road, and follow the signs to the Naked Possum Café, situated on the edge of the Kahurangi Forest, directly across the road from the Kaituna Track. The Naked Possum’s mission is to eradicate the brush tail possum and restore the rata forest – it’s an intriguing place in a gorgeous area. We relax on the deck with flat whites and a bowl of chips ($14) and soak up the atmosphere. Our visit takes places 10 days after the death of one of the owners; a lovely tribute to him is on display at the cafe.
http://www.nakedpossum.com/
It’s raining, but we can’t pass up the opportunity to walk at least a bit of the track, so we walk as far as the old Kaituna gold workings. We both almost fall on our butts as we cross the wooden footbridge; it’s wet and slippery as ice. The track leads through native forest past a cave, water races and former gold sluicing operations. It’s a nice walk, incredibly green and dark (no sun) and rather muddy (45 minute return, 1.7 miles).
It begins to rain in earnest as we drive back to Takaka, effectively ending our walking day.
It’s back to the Brigand for an encore dinner. Bill has the house specialty, barbecued ribs in a sickly sweet plum sauce ($26.50). I ask how they are and get that familiar head bob which translates to “eh, so-so, could be better”. I feel the same way about my potato, bacon and leek soup ($11). The Brigand fails to impress tonight.
Jul 15th, 2011, 10:12 PM
#35
A vanishing road….
We leave Takaka the way we came, the valley seeming even greener than when we arrived. It’s Round #2 for Takaka Hill, which hasn’t gotten any straighter in the past two days. The storm has caused several landslips; debris is scattered across the highway and rocks continue to fall as we pass; a highway crew works its way up from Motueka as we work our way down. Highway maintenance on the South Island must be an endless task.
The Motueka River is running fast and full, logs float downstream. We putter along 60, past kiosks selling apples and kiwis. Clouds can be seen reflected in the estuary to our left; the sun is out! Names and messages have been spelled out with rocks in the sand, only visible because it’s low tide.
We detour onto the Ruby Bay/Mapua scenic drive again, dodging yet more storm debris. The Naked Bun is calling; we can’t pass up the opportunity to stop in one more time. It’s Spanakopita again for Bill, a Cointreau éclair for me and two more of those fantastic chocolate croissants for later (total $30.50 with two flat whites). Still good!
Back on 60, we work our way towards Nelson, passing vineyards and orchards as we enter Richmond for the second time. We turn on SH 6, retracing our steps to Nelson City and alongside Tasman Bay, completely calm with a surface like glass. We pass the not- so-innocuous rolling hills above Glenduan and wind our way back through the mountainous Rai Valley Forest.
We’re in and out of tiny Canvastown in the blink of an eye and entering Havelock, the “Green Lipped Mussel Capital of the World”, some 10 kilometers later.
Our meander continues as we turn left onto Queen Charlotte Drive and ease our way through native forest, alongside the Marlborough Sounds and past several sleepy bays towards Picton. The views from here are spectacular, particularly on a pretty day, but today the sounds are a bit muddy due to all the runoff from the recent deluge.
The road is a mess; several landslips have wreaked havoc. Large chunks of asphalt are sunken or missing; in one instance ¾ of the road is gone. Trees have fallen onto the road, blocking entire lanes. I have to wonder if Queen Charlotte Drive will slide right into the sounds.
I feel like I have whiplash from all the squiggles. We pull over at a lookout above Shakespeare Bay; smelling freshly logged wood the minute we step out of the car. The viewpoint overlooks a busy logging port and Kaipupu Point, a bird sanctuary with an impressive predator proof fence.
A quick stop at the Picton Harbor overlook follows; we’re soon driving into the pretty town of Picton, situated at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. We stop at the Countdown grocery store, specifically to buy some Rush Munro’s ice cream, which I’ve been told is very good, but I don’t care for it (vanilla).
We drive through Picton and continue north east via Waikawa/Port Underwood Road, passing Waikawa Bay, home to one of New Zealand’s largest marinas. The road is typically narrow and unfortunately used by loggers, one of which barely squeezes by us, hogging the road. Another couple of inches, and we’d be swimming in the sounds.
Before long we’re at Whatamango Bay, easing down the freakishly steep driveway of Whatamonga Homestay, our base for the next three nights. We’re warmly greeted by owner Colette and her big fluffy ginger cat, Benji.
My review of this lovely accommodation can be found here:
http://www.fodors.com/world/australi...ew-193270.html
We while away the rest of the afternoon on our balcony, soaking up the fantastic views of the Marlborough Sounds and watching the Interislander ferries pass in front of us.
We leave Takaka the way we came, the valley seeming even greener than when we arrived. It’s Round #2 for Takaka Hill, which hasn’t gotten any straighter in the past two days. The storm has caused several landslips; debris is scattered across the highway and rocks continue to fall as we pass; a highway crew works its way up from Motueka as we work our way down. Highway maintenance on the South Island must be an endless task.
The Motueka River is running fast and full, logs float downstream. We putter along 60, past kiosks selling apples and kiwis. Clouds can be seen reflected in the estuary to our left; the sun is out! Names and messages have been spelled out with rocks in the sand, only visible because it’s low tide.
We detour onto the Ruby Bay/Mapua scenic drive again, dodging yet more storm debris. The Naked Bun is calling; we can’t pass up the opportunity to stop in one more time. It’s Spanakopita again for Bill, a Cointreau éclair for me and two more of those fantastic chocolate croissants for later (total $30.50 with two flat whites). Still good!
Back on 60, we work our way towards Nelson, passing vineyards and orchards as we enter Richmond for the second time. We turn on SH 6, retracing our steps to Nelson City and alongside Tasman Bay, completely calm with a surface like glass. We pass the not- so-innocuous rolling hills above Glenduan and wind our way back through the mountainous Rai Valley Forest.
We’re in and out of tiny Canvastown in the blink of an eye and entering Havelock, the “Green Lipped Mussel Capital of the World”, some 10 kilometers later.
Our meander continues as we turn left onto Queen Charlotte Drive and ease our way through native forest, alongside the Marlborough Sounds and past several sleepy bays towards Picton. The views from here are spectacular, particularly on a pretty day, but today the sounds are a bit muddy due to all the runoff from the recent deluge.
The road is a mess; several landslips have wreaked havoc. Large chunks of asphalt are sunken or missing; in one instance ¾ of the road is gone. Trees have fallen onto the road, blocking entire lanes. I have to wonder if Queen Charlotte Drive will slide right into the sounds.
I feel like I have whiplash from all the squiggles. We pull over at a lookout above Shakespeare Bay; smelling freshly logged wood the minute we step out of the car. The viewpoint overlooks a busy logging port and Kaipupu Point, a bird sanctuary with an impressive predator proof fence.
A quick stop at the Picton Harbor overlook follows; we’re soon driving into the pretty town of Picton, situated at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound. We stop at the Countdown grocery store, specifically to buy some Rush Munro’s ice cream, which I’ve been told is very good, but I don’t care for it (vanilla).
We drive through Picton and continue north east via Waikawa/Port Underwood Road, passing Waikawa Bay, home to one of New Zealand’s largest marinas. The road is typically narrow and unfortunately used by loggers, one of which barely squeezes by us, hogging the road. Another couple of inches, and we’d be swimming in the sounds.
Before long we’re at Whatamango Bay, easing down the freakishly steep driveway of Whatamonga Homestay, our base for the next three nights. We’re warmly greeted by owner Colette and her big fluffy ginger cat, Benji.
My review of this lovely accommodation can be found here:
http://www.fodors.com/world/australi...ew-193270.html
We while away the rest of the afternoon on our balcony, soaking up the fantastic views of the Marlborough Sounds and watching the Interislander ferries pass in front of us.
Jul 17th, 2011, 04:12 PM
#36
An aimless day…
I’m not feeling well. Colette is kind enough to help arrange a doctor’s appointment. We enjoy a leisurely breakfast with our hostess in her home, and then we head to Picton. After my appointment we drive to Anakiwa, via Queen Charlotte Drive. We’d like to walk a section of the track from this end, so we’re curious. As we approach Anakiwa, we see several mud-covered bikers fly off the track; Queen Charlotte Track is open to bikers during the winter months; during peak season they can only cycle from Camp Bay to Anakiwa.
We see signs advising of a shellfish ban in the Marlborough Sounds due to Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning. We later learn that the ban was lifted that very day; apparently, an algae bloom was responsible for the toxin.
We return to Picton, stopping to photograph mailboxes en route – mailboxes shaped like cows, cats, milk jugs, campers, delivery trucks, fish – I wonder if they held a contest for most interesting mailbox…
Back in town, we wander the streets in search of lunch, settling on the Flying Haggis, where we’re chatted up by our Scottish waitress. Bill chooses the sweet and sour chicken ($12.50); I go for the kumara and vegetable soup ($8.50). Then it’s off to the Visitor’s Center, where we determine that due to limited water taxi schedules, it’s just not logistically feasible/cost effective to walk the sections of the QCT that interest us. Employee Chris is very patient and helpful; she suggests several alternate tracks. Picton is much more than a gateway to the Marlborough Sounds; there’s a quite a bit to do here.
The low fog is back, there’s a chill in the air. The short winter day has gotten away from us, but we still want to walk, so we seek out Esson’s Valley and walk to Humphries Dam. The track is easy, but dark in the sunless rainforest and incredibly muddy (90 minutes return, ~3.5 miles).
We return to Picton, check our e-mail at Atlantis Backpackers ($2 for 30 minutes) and peruse the dinner menus. We end up at Plaza India; both surprised to find an Indian restaurant in a town the size of Picton, and surprised at how good it is. Bill predictably orders the Chicken Tikka Masala, I try the Dal Makani; good food for a cold winter’s night ($36 including rice and naan).
We ease our way back along Waikawa/Port Underwood Road to our homestay; it’s pitch black and misting, it feels like it might snow!
I’m not feeling well. Colette is kind enough to help arrange a doctor’s appointment. We enjoy a leisurely breakfast with our hostess in her home, and then we head to Picton. After my appointment we drive to Anakiwa, via Queen Charlotte Drive. We’d like to walk a section of the track from this end, so we’re curious. As we approach Anakiwa, we see several mud-covered bikers fly off the track; Queen Charlotte Track is open to bikers during the winter months; during peak season they can only cycle from Camp Bay to Anakiwa.
We see signs advising of a shellfish ban in the Marlborough Sounds due to Paralytic Shellfish Poisoning. We later learn that the ban was lifted that very day; apparently, an algae bloom was responsible for the toxin.
We return to Picton, stopping to photograph mailboxes en route – mailboxes shaped like cows, cats, milk jugs, campers, delivery trucks, fish – I wonder if they held a contest for most interesting mailbox…
Back in town, we wander the streets in search of lunch, settling on the Flying Haggis, where we’re chatted up by our Scottish waitress. Bill chooses the sweet and sour chicken ($12.50); I go for the kumara and vegetable soup ($8.50). Then it’s off to the Visitor’s Center, where we determine that due to limited water taxi schedules, it’s just not logistically feasible/cost effective to walk the sections of the QCT that interest us. Employee Chris is very patient and helpful; she suggests several alternate tracks. Picton is much more than a gateway to the Marlborough Sounds; there’s a quite a bit to do here.
The low fog is back, there’s a chill in the air. The short winter day has gotten away from us, but we still want to walk, so we seek out Esson’s Valley and walk to Humphries Dam. The track is easy, but dark in the sunless rainforest and incredibly muddy (90 minutes return, ~3.5 miles).
We return to Picton, check our e-mail at Atlantis Backpackers ($2 for 30 minutes) and peruse the dinner menus. We end up at Plaza India; both surprised to find an Indian restaurant in a town the size of Picton, and surprised at how good it is. Bill predictably orders the Chicken Tikka Masala, I try the Dal Makani; good food for a cold winter’s night ($36 including rice and naan).
We ease our way back along Waikawa/Port Underwood Road to our homestay; it’s pitch black and misting, it feels like it might snow!
Jul 17th, 2011, 08:24 PM
#37
Walking the Snout…
We join Colette for another breakfast in her home. Resident cats Benji and Muffie curl around the electric heater and ignore us. It’s gloomy again, but at least it’s dry.
We drive to Victoria Domain, located between Waikawa and Picton; we’ve been told there are several walks through here offering views of the harbor and the sounds. We follow the one way road from Victoria Domain to where it ends at the Snout Track car park.
The first section of the track leads to Queen Charlotte View, which as the name implies, offers fabulous views of Queen Charlotte Sound; there’s a picnic table and an overlook at the top. This section is well graded and nicely maintained; as we climb, we see Picton Harbor behind us and the Interislander ferries crossing the sounds to our left. The track then descends to the tip of the headland, aka The Snout. Several long black skids and a few butt prints indicate how slippery the track is; it’s a muddy mess, we creep along, not wanting to slip and break our necks. We’re enclosed by native bush; there are no views until we reach the tip of The Snout, where we find ourselves surrounded by the water of Waikawa Bay…and a lot of really big bees.
Other than the mud and slippery bits, we enjoy this walk (just over three hours, ~5.5 miles return).
We next drive to Waikawa Bay for lunch at the Jolly Roger in the marina, toasted cheese and onion for me ($6), an open face burger with bacon and salad for Bill ($19.50), nice location, average food.
Back on Waikawa Bay/Port Underwood Road, we stop to explore Karaka Point, east of Picton. Here we walk a path alongside the remains of a Maori settlement and down a steep embankment to the beach.
Intrigued by an area we’ve never visited, we decide to continue along Port Underwood Road towards Rarangi. We’ve been warned that the road is challenging, although supposedly not as challenging as the one we’ve already driven to French Pass. This is the longer, more rugged route to Blenheim, taking about 1-1/4 hours vs. the 20-30 minute drive along SH 1 from Picton.
Watching for errant logging trucks we work our way to Oyster Bay, where the narrow and winding road turns to gravel. Clear felling is obvious and widespread, but we encounter no loggers, just a highway crew cleaning up a substantial landslip; we must wait several minutes for the crew to clear the road. We stop at a hill to soak up the fabulous view of the sounds. The road narrows even more as we pass through Cole’s Bay and Tom Cane’s Bay. As we skirt yet another massive slip, we question the wisdom of attempting this drive after so much rain. We continue on through the former whaling station of Kakapo Bay, named after a rare flightless New Zealand parrot, the area now completely fenced in, presumably for deer farming. We enter Ocean Bay, amazed (not for the first time), to see houses back here; it seems Kiwis build their homes in the most challenging places. We’re surrounded by undulating forest, some areas logged into oblivion. We turn back at Robin Hood Bay; it’s getting dark, the drop offs to the coast are unnerving, and there’s no signage to indicate distances or what lies ahead.
To get a sense of this drive, take a look here:
http://www.zoomin.co.nz/map/nz/marlb...nderwood+road/
Our friendly hostess Colette has invited us to drinks and snacks in her home. We chat and catch up with the local news; the ash cloud from Chile continues to disrupt flights in and out of New Zealand. We may not be leaving in a few days after all.
We join Colette for another breakfast in her home. Resident cats Benji and Muffie curl around the electric heater and ignore us. It’s gloomy again, but at least it’s dry.
We drive to Victoria Domain, located between Waikawa and Picton; we’ve been told there are several walks through here offering views of the harbor and the sounds. We follow the one way road from Victoria Domain to where it ends at the Snout Track car park.
The first section of the track leads to Queen Charlotte View, which as the name implies, offers fabulous views of Queen Charlotte Sound; there’s a picnic table and an overlook at the top. This section is well graded and nicely maintained; as we climb, we see Picton Harbor behind us and the Interislander ferries crossing the sounds to our left. The track then descends to the tip of the headland, aka The Snout. Several long black skids and a few butt prints indicate how slippery the track is; it’s a muddy mess, we creep along, not wanting to slip and break our necks. We’re enclosed by native bush; there are no views until we reach the tip of The Snout, where we find ourselves surrounded by the water of Waikawa Bay…and a lot of really big bees.
Other than the mud and slippery bits, we enjoy this walk (just over three hours, ~5.5 miles return).
We next drive to Waikawa Bay for lunch at the Jolly Roger in the marina, toasted cheese and onion for me ($6), an open face burger with bacon and salad for Bill ($19.50), nice location, average food.
Back on Waikawa Bay/Port Underwood Road, we stop to explore Karaka Point, east of Picton. Here we walk a path alongside the remains of a Maori settlement and down a steep embankment to the beach.
Intrigued by an area we’ve never visited, we decide to continue along Port Underwood Road towards Rarangi. We’ve been warned that the road is challenging, although supposedly not as challenging as the one we’ve already driven to French Pass. This is the longer, more rugged route to Blenheim, taking about 1-1/4 hours vs. the 20-30 minute drive along SH 1 from Picton.
Watching for errant logging trucks we work our way to Oyster Bay, where the narrow and winding road turns to gravel. Clear felling is obvious and widespread, but we encounter no loggers, just a highway crew cleaning up a substantial landslip; we must wait several minutes for the crew to clear the road. We stop at a hill to soak up the fabulous view of the sounds. The road narrows even more as we pass through Cole’s Bay and Tom Cane’s Bay. As we skirt yet another massive slip, we question the wisdom of attempting this drive after so much rain. We continue on through the former whaling station of Kakapo Bay, named after a rare flightless New Zealand parrot, the area now completely fenced in, presumably for deer farming. We enter Ocean Bay, amazed (not for the first time), to see houses back here; it seems Kiwis build their homes in the most challenging places. We’re surrounded by undulating forest, some areas logged into oblivion. We turn back at Robin Hood Bay; it’s getting dark, the drop offs to the coast are unnerving, and there’s no signage to indicate distances or what lies ahead.
To get a sense of this drive, take a look here:
http://www.zoomin.co.nz/map/nz/marlb...nderwood+road/
Our friendly hostess Colette has invited us to drinks and snacks in her home. We chat and catch up with the local news; the ash cloud from Chile continues to disrupt flights in and out of New Zealand. We may not be leaving in a few days after all.
Jul 19th, 2011, 01:38 PM
#38
Culinary disappointment…
After a final breakfast with our charming hostess, we leave our comfy digs and head to Picton, joining SH1 for the 26 km drive to Blenheim. We’re in New Zealand’s largest wine growing region, resistance is futile. We seek out Villa Maria for a wine tasting and a chat with Michelle, who is minding the cellar door. Our on-the-ground wine drinking days are numbered; our luggage is dangerously close to the airline’s weight limit, shipping costs to Australia are high…we must control ourselves…yet we fall in love with Villa Maria’s reserve wines, so we purchase a bottle of their Reserve Wairau Valley 2010 Sauvignon Blanc and bottle of their Reserve Marlborough 2008 Pinot Noir – fantastic.
On Michelle’s recommendation we have lunch at Wairau River Winery. The venue is nice, with a blazing fire and casual atmosphere, but the service is perfunctory and almost unfriendly. The sauce of my Green Chicken Curry ($23) is very good, but it’s made with dark meat (which I dislike, I should have asked). Bill really enjoys his Mussel Chowder ($19.50) and helps with my chicken ($48 total with one glass of wine each).
It’s taken us 3.5 hours to go 36 kilometers; we need to get a move on. We locate SH 1, and work our way through flatter-than-a-pikelet Blenheim, passing acres of naked grape vines and bare cherry trees. The topography quickly changes; the road becomes squiggly as we wind through undulating hills the color of wheat. We catch glimpses of turquoise sea, black sand and the dark blue backdrop of the Kaikoura Range. It’s raining as we approach Kaikoura…neither of us remembers being here when it wasn’t…We scan the black rocks, looking for black lumps. We pull over when we spot them, dozens of seals on the rocks directly below us, some fighting, most dozing.
Kaikoura is surprisingly busy for June and bigger than I remember (imagine that). We pass yet another large landslip south of town, this one right next to the railroad tracks.
There’s been a substantial increase in traffic since we left Blenheim; it picks up even more as we work our way down the east coast.
We wind through the hills of the Hundalee Forest and enter the Hurunui District, once again amongst lush farmland. Low clouds hover over the green fields like smoke, the pungent stench of livestock fills the air. It’s getting dark, but we see limestone cliffs to our left. Some 20 kilometers later, we pull into the driveway of Dunnolly Cottage in Waipara, our accommodation for our last two nights in New Zealand.
My review can be found here:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...th_Island.html
We get settled in our lovely cottage and drive to Amberley in search of the much touted Nor’Wester Café. I’ve read good things about this place, and it also comes highly recommended by our host, who suggests the duck. We don’t eat duck, so I order the cracked pepper pappardelle, with pumpkin, olives, spinach, radicchio, Parmesan and pine nuts from the Casual menu ($22.50). What a disappointment. The pasta is undercooked and the whole dish is bland. I’ve never had pumpkin with pasta and I now know why…it’s not a good combination. Bill orders the sirloin with potato gratin, spinach, semi-dried tomatoes and green peppercorn sauce from the Dine menu, but he receives the sirloin open sandwich with fries from the Casual menu instead ($26.50). It’s an honest mistake, which never gets sorted as the waitress disappears. He eats it anyway and proclaims the sirloin excellent, although he’d preferred just about anything other than fries.
After a final breakfast with our charming hostess, we leave our comfy digs and head to Picton, joining SH1 for the 26 km drive to Blenheim. We’re in New Zealand’s largest wine growing region, resistance is futile. We seek out Villa Maria for a wine tasting and a chat with Michelle, who is minding the cellar door. Our on-the-ground wine drinking days are numbered; our luggage is dangerously close to the airline’s weight limit, shipping costs to Australia are high…we must control ourselves…yet we fall in love with Villa Maria’s reserve wines, so we purchase a bottle of their Reserve Wairau Valley 2010 Sauvignon Blanc and bottle of their Reserve Marlborough 2008 Pinot Noir – fantastic.
On Michelle’s recommendation we have lunch at Wairau River Winery. The venue is nice, with a blazing fire and casual atmosphere, but the service is perfunctory and almost unfriendly. The sauce of my Green Chicken Curry ($23) is very good, but it’s made with dark meat (which I dislike, I should have asked). Bill really enjoys his Mussel Chowder ($19.50) and helps with my chicken ($48 total with one glass of wine each).
It’s taken us 3.5 hours to go 36 kilometers; we need to get a move on. We locate SH 1, and work our way through flatter-than-a-pikelet Blenheim, passing acres of naked grape vines and bare cherry trees. The topography quickly changes; the road becomes squiggly as we wind through undulating hills the color of wheat. We catch glimpses of turquoise sea, black sand and the dark blue backdrop of the Kaikoura Range. It’s raining as we approach Kaikoura…neither of us remembers being here when it wasn’t…We scan the black rocks, looking for black lumps. We pull over when we spot them, dozens of seals on the rocks directly below us, some fighting, most dozing.
Kaikoura is surprisingly busy for June and bigger than I remember (imagine that). We pass yet another large landslip south of town, this one right next to the railroad tracks.
There’s been a substantial increase in traffic since we left Blenheim; it picks up even more as we work our way down the east coast.
We wind through the hills of the Hundalee Forest and enter the Hurunui District, once again amongst lush farmland. Low clouds hover over the green fields like smoke, the pungent stench of livestock fills the air. It’s getting dark, but we see limestone cliffs to our left. Some 20 kilometers later, we pull into the driveway of Dunnolly Cottage in Waipara, our accommodation for our last two nights in New Zealand.
My review can be found here:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...th_Island.html
We get settled in our lovely cottage and drive to Amberley in search of the much touted Nor’Wester Café. I’ve read good things about this place, and it also comes highly recommended by our host, who suggests the duck. We don’t eat duck, so I order the cracked pepper pappardelle, with pumpkin, olives, spinach, radicchio, Parmesan and pine nuts from the Casual menu ($22.50). What a disappointment. The pasta is undercooked and the whole dish is bland. I’ve never had pumpkin with pasta and I now know why…it’s not a good combination. Bill orders the sirloin with potato gratin, spinach, semi-dried tomatoes and green peppercorn sauce from the Dine menu, but he receives the sirloin open sandwich with fries from the Casual menu instead ($26.50). It’s an honest mistake, which never gets sorted as the waitress disappears. He eats it anyway and proclaims the sirloin excellent, although he’d preferred just about anything other than fries.
Jul 19th, 2011, 07:57 PM
#39
Winding down…
It’s our last full day in New Zealand, cold but sunny. The Waipara map I printed before leaving Australia indicates there’s a walking track about three kilometers from our cottage, so off we go to explore Mt Cass Walkway.
At the start of the track there’s a sign advising “NO DOGS, Dogs Found On This Walkway Will Be Shot” …wow, this guy is serious. We work our way up the moderately steep track which traverses a working farm. Before long we’re slogging through gumbo, the type of mud that sticks to your boots like glue and won’t let go, every step weighing us down. We think it’s mud anyway…it might be poop…every square inch of the ground here is covered in poop. The 360 degree views of Pegasus Bay and Waipara from the top make the trek well worth the effort. As an added bonus, we see a farmer and his dogs rounding up sheep and moving them to a different pasture, which is always interesting to watch. It’s a messy walk, but we enjoy it, 2.3 hour loop, 4.6 miles return.
We’re hungry, so we head to Pegasus Bay Winery, hoping for some lunch, but the restaurant is closed until July. We have a mini wine tasting and wander the grounds instead; they make a lovely Pinot Noir.
Still looking for lunch, we stop at the Mud House, but find a full car park and a sign advising that they’re fully booked (it’s Friday after all), so we move on, ending up at Waipara Springs Winery. We taste their wines ($4 per person, six wines), both liking their Pinot Noir, Syrah and cool climate Merlot, and settle in for a leisurely lunch in their near- empty café. Bill orders the Cheviot ribeye, served on a potato and leek sour cream pancake, surrounded by a red wine, smoked bacon and green peppercorn jus ($30). It’s huge; he’s a wee bit disappointed in the steak which is just “okay”, but he still manages to clean his plate. I order the vegetarian blackboard special, crisp filo pastry filled with potato, kumara, sundried tomatoes, spinach and feta, topped with sunflower seeds and a tomato basil sauce ($18). It looks like a huge filo burrito; it's good, I clean my plate too.
Having shared a bottle of Waipara Downs 2009 Merlot over lunch, we’re pretty much ruined for the day. We return to our cottage to wash our boots and hiking sticks, wander the vineyard, and relax in our lovely surroundings.
It’s our last full day in New Zealand, cold but sunny. The Waipara map I printed before leaving Australia indicates there’s a walking track about three kilometers from our cottage, so off we go to explore Mt Cass Walkway.
At the start of the track there’s a sign advising “NO DOGS, Dogs Found On This Walkway Will Be Shot” …wow, this guy is serious. We work our way up the moderately steep track which traverses a working farm. Before long we’re slogging through gumbo, the type of mud that sticks to your boots like glue and won’t let go, every step weighing us down. We think it’s mud anyway…it might be poop…every square inch of the ground here is covered in poop. The 360 degree views of Pegasus Bay and Waipara from the top make the trek well worth the effort. As an added bonus, we see a farmer and his dogs rounding up sheep and moving them to a different pasture, which is always interesting to watch. It’s a messy walk, but we enjoy it, 2.3 hour loop, 4.6 miles return.
We’re hungry, so we head to Pegasus Bay Winery, hoping for some lunch, but the restaurant is closed until July. We have a mini wine tasting and wander the grounds instead; they make a lovely Pinot Noir.
Still looking for lunch, we stop at the Mud House, but find a full car park and a sign advising that they’re fully booked (it’s Friday after all), so we move on, ending up at Waipara Springs Winery. We taste their wines ($4 per person, six wines), both liking their Pinot Noir, Syrah and cool climate Merlot, and settle in for a leisurely lunch in their near- empty café. Bill orders the Cheviot ribeye, served on a potato and leek sour cream pancake, surrounded by a red wine, smoked bacon and green peppercorn jus ($30). It’s huge; he’s a wee bit disappointed in the steak which is just “okay”, but he still manages to clean his plate. I order the vegetarian blackboard special, crisp filo pastry filled with potato, kumara, sundried tomatoes, spinach and feta, topped with sunflower seeds and a tomato basil sauce ($18). It looks like a huge filo burrito; it's good, I clean my plate too.
Having shared a bottle of Waipara Downs 2009 Merlot over lunch, we’re pretty much ruined for the day. We return to our cottage to wash our boots and hiking sticks, wander the vineyard, and relax in our lovely surroundings.
Jul 19th, 2011, 08:36 PM
#40
Going home…
We’re up and ready by 8 am, inadvertently waking our hosts when we ring the bell to check out. Oops. It’s cold, there’s frost on the car windows and no ice scraper in our rental. We reluctantly leave Waipara and drive south on SH 1 towards Christchurch, steam rising from ponds as we pass.
Forty-five minutes later we’re at the APEX depot near the Christchurch Airport. We have plenty of time before our flight, so we aimlessly drive around looking for a café for breakfast. We eventually end up at the Native Garden Café in the Untouched World clothing shop on Roydvale Ave, near APEX. Bill orders the Eggs Bennie with bacon ($17.50), I select the potato and onion fritter with bacon and relish ($14.50), both are excellent, as are the flat whites ($39.40 total). This is a nice little café, complete with linen tablecloths and napkins, a really good find.
http://www.untouchedworld.com/native...e/Information/
We return the car and take the shuttle to the airport. We’ve driven 3,625 kilometers during our three weeks on the South Island.
Air New Zealand is the only airline flying due to the ash cloud from Chile; I’m not sure if I should be relieved or nervous. We’re checked in within minutes; despite our wine purchases our suitcases only weigh 21 kg each. There’s momentary panic as I’m flagged down before entering security and our shared carry on bag is weighed; it’s not full, but it’s heavy - 10.7 kg – they check my boarding pass and wave me through. I ask if I can carry my 1.5 liter bottle of water through security and I’m told "no problem". We await our flight in the well-appointed Koru Lounge.
We’re onboard our full flight to Auckland and pushing back at 11:15 am. Good thing we were at the airport early, I’d mistakenly thought our flight was scheduled to leave at 11:50.
Upon arrival in Auckland we walk to the international terminal; 10 of the 16 flights listed on the departure board are cancelled. We spend an hour in the Koru Lounge and then board our flight to Perth. We’re told the flight will take eight hours and will be a bit turbulent, as we’ll be flying at a lower altitude to avoid the ash cloud.
Once again we’re treated to that fantastic Air New Zealand Business Class service. The food is excellent, the service attentive and friendly, the Muscat divine. Oh, I’m going to miss this…
The Perth Airport is chaotic. Several international flights have arrived simultaneously, the arrivals hall and Customs/Quarantine area are packed. We have hiking gear and a bit of food, so we’re directed to the longest queue for inspection…our trip is officially over, back to reality…
--------------------
Anyone still reading will be glad to know I’m finally finished. Here are the numbers:
Total spent on petrol - $563.83, $2.05-$2.28 per liter
Accommodation, per night:
Geraldine - Victoria Villa B&B - $130, Tui Room, inclusive of cooked breakfast
Glenorchy - Precipice Creek Station - $230, inclusive of generous continental breakfast
Wanaka - Alpine View Lodge - $135, split level studio, inclusive of continental breakfast
Franz Josef - Glen Fern Villas - $153, one bedroom villa, no breakfast
Arthur’s Pass - Mountain House Cottage #3 - $120, no breakfast
Hope - Milcrest Estate, Pinot Noir Suite - $159, inclusive of continental breakfast
Takaka – Ashlea Downs Cottage- $120, no breakfast
Picton – Whatamonga Homestay - $125, inclusive of cooked breakfast
Waipara – Dunnolly Cottage - $175, inclusive of continental breakfast
All the accommodation was lovely, not a dud in the bunch; we’d happily return to all of them.
We’re up and ready by 8 am, inadvertently waking our hosts when we ring the bell to check out. Oops. It’s cold, there’s frost on the car windows and no ice scraper in our rental. We reluctantly leave Waipara and drive south on SH 1 towards Christchurch, steam rising from ponds as we pass.
Forty-five minutes later we’re at the APEX depot near the Christchurch Airport. We have plenty of time before our flight, so we aimlessly drive around looking for a café for breakfast. We eventually end up at the Native Garden Café in the Untouched World clothing shop on Roydvale Ave, near APEX. Bill orders the Eggs Bennie with bacon ($17.50), I select the potato and onion fritter with bacon and relish ($14.50), both are excellent, as are the flat whites ($39.40 total). This is a nice little café, complete with linen tablecloths and napkins, a really good find.
http://www.untouchedworld.com/native...e/Information/
We return the car and take the shuttle to the airport. We’ve driven 3,625 kilometers during our three weeks on the South Island.
Air New Zealand is the only airline flying due to the ash cloud from Chile; I’m not sure if I should be relieved or nervous. We’re checked in within minutes; despite our wine purchases our suitcases only weigh 21 kg each. There’s momentary panic as I’m flagged down before entering security and our shared carry on bag is weighed; it’s not full, but it’s heavy - 10.7 kg – they check my boarding pass and wave me through. I ask if I can carry my 1.5 liter bottle of water through security and I’m told "no problem". We await our flight in the well-appointed Koru Lounge.
We’re onboard our full flight to Auckland and pushing back at 11:15 am. Good thing we were at the airport early, I’d mistakenly thought our flight was scheduled to leave at 11:50.
Upon arrival in Auckland we walk to the international terminal; 10 of the 16 flights listed on the departure board are cancelled. We spend an hour in the Koru Lounge and then board our flight to Perth. We’re told the flight will take eight hours and will be a bit turbulent, as we’ll be flying at a lower altitude to avoid the ash cloud.
Once again we’re treated to that fantastic Air New Zealand Business Class service. The food is excellent, the service attentive and friendly, the Muscat divine. Oh, I’m going to miss this…
The Perth Airport is chaotic. Several international flights have arrived simultaneously, the arrivals hall and Customs/Quarantine area are packed. We have hiking gear and a bit of food, so we’re directed to the longest queue for inspection…our trip is officially over, back to reality…
--------------------
Anyone still reading will be glad to know I’m finally finished. Here are the numbers:
Total spent on petrol - $563.83, $2.05-$2.28 per liter
Accommodation, per night:
Geraldine - Victoria Villa B&B - $130, Tui Room, inclusive of cooked breakfast
Glenorchy - Precipice Creek Station - $230, inclusive of generous continental breakfast
Wanaka - Alpine View Lodge - $135, split level studio, inclusive of continental breakfast
Franz Josef - Glen Fern Villas - $153, one bedroom villa, no breakfast
Arthur’s Pass - Mountain House Cottage #3 - $120, no breakfast
Hope - Milcrest Estate, Pinot Noir Suite - $159, inclusive of continental breakfast
Takaka – Ashlea Downs Cottage- $120, no breakfast
Picton – Whatamonga Homestay - $125, inclusive of cooked breakfast
Waipara – Dunnolly Cottage - $175, inclusive of continental breakfast
All the accommodation was lovely, not a dud in the bunch; we’d happily return to all of them.
