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A taste of Perth (and vicinity)

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A taste of Perth (and vicinity)

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Old Nov 11th, 2011, 09:02 PM
  #101  
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30) Rottnest Island...

A cool, very windy day in early November, I’ve booked the ferry from Barrack Street Jetty to Rottnest Island on Rottnest Express (Tuesdays are the cheapest days - $58 return, plus $28 for bike rental on the island). I walk from my home to the nearest train station, catch the train to The Esplanade, then walk from there to the jetty. I board the Rottnest Express ferry, which leaves the jetty at 8:45 am.

The ride down the Swan River is calm and uneventful and includes an interesting commentary. We stop at Northport Rous Head (north Fremantle) to pick up additional passengers.

As we leave the dock at Northport, the crew distributes barf bags. Uh-oh.

The ride from Northport to Rottnest is neither calm nor uneventful. It’s a thirty minute bone-jarring thrill ride thanks to the wind and rough sea conditions. We take flight several times, the boat slamming back to the sea on descent. A light fixture pops out of its housing and dangles from a wire. A display of snacks at the bar crashes to the floor. The boat rocks wildly from side to side. Water splashes fiercely against the windows. I feel like I’m in a scene from the Deadliest Catch. The crew races up and down the aisles, which is a bit alarming. Kids squeal, adults look uncomfortable and white-knuckled. I eyeball the life vest under my seat as we teeter from side to side. It’s not fun. Thank God I’d remember to take a sea sickness tablet…it could have been really ugly.

We arrive promptly at Rottnest at 10:45 am. I’m relieved to be back on terra firma.

Those of us who booked rental bikes with our ferry tickets queue up to collect our equipment. It’s a long process, eating up our limited time on the island. The rental equipment is disappointing; the helmets battered, the bikes rusty, greasy and in poor condition. I struggle with my monstrous bike for the next four hours, struggling to get my leg over the bar each time I mount and dismount. Not a pretty sight.

I have high hopes of circling the entire island, 11 km long (6.8 miles) and 4.5 km (2.7 miles) at it’s widest point. I’m told this will take 3 -1/2 hours and a clockwise route has been suggested. I weave around the island, exploring, stopping frequently to take photos, which means climbing on and off that big old bike entirely too many times. Ninety minutes in I realize I’m doomed. The bike is awful, the gears don’t work, nothing I do seems to work…each hill I encounter feels like Mt Everest. I toy with returning the bike to the dock for an exchange, but I suspect the ferry workers have vanished.

I turn around and head back to the settlement. I grab a sandwich at Subway, a bottle of juice at the island shop, and settle in at a picnic table. It begins to rain.

I suddenly notice several quokkas under the tables eating leaves and food crumbs. THIS is what I came to see. Quokkas are small marsupials; they resemble small kangaroos, but their heads and faces look more like rats. Rottnest was originally called Rattenest, (meaning Rat’s Nest) by the Dutch explorers who discovered it. Today the locals just call it Rotto.

I spend the next hour or so photographing quokkas. They’re particularly thick around the settlement. Under tables and trees, in gardens, and completely unafraid of people (but please, please don’t feed them!).

I explore aimlessly, going no where in particular, stopping often for photos. I return my bike to the ferry at 3:30, it’s loaded onboard. At 4 pm the ferry leaves the dock headed back to Fremantle. I brace for another rough ride as we’ve been warned it will be ‘rolly’. I stare at a fixed television screen trying to trick my brain into thinking I’m not really onboard this rocking and rolling boat.

The ferry stops at both Northport and Fremantle, passengers disembark. It’s near empty by the time we slowly easy our way down the Swan River. We arrive at Barrack Street Jetty at 5:45 pm. I retrace my steps, walking to The Esplanade, taking a train to my suburb and then walking home, arriving just before 7 pm, almost 12 hours since I left. It’s been a long day.

Photos (199-215):

http://www.worldisround.com/articles.../photo211.html
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Old Nov 12th, 2011, 01:53 AM
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Hi Mel,
Just looking at your wildflower photo's, yes the yellow daisy flowers are weeds, sorry! The pretty little purple ones are Fringed Lilies.
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Old Nov 12th, 2011, 01:56 AM
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Oh dear, Melnq8, doesn't sound like you had the greatest trip to Rottnest. You've probably joined the ranks of the many who have done a day trip and wonder what the big deal is all about.

It's at its best in lovely weather of course, and in the early mornings and evenings after the day trippers have left. You can't beat the azure blue of the sea around the bays and the pleasure of leaving Thompson's Bay and finding your won little beach. It's all about lifestyle, my heart always sinks when I hear visitors are heading for Rottnest probably with some image of an island paradise in mind.

It's always been too expensive for what you get and services the "take-it-or-leave it" attitude of those with a monopoly and a captive market.

I remember a wild trip on the old Temeraire when the sides were just canvas awnings. We at last arrived in Thompson's Bay, the crew wound up the awnings and fresh air and relief wafted over us all. Then a passenger leaned over and handed me a bulging paper bag, asking me to throw it over the side. That's when <i>I</i> nearly lost my breakfast.
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Old Nov 12th, 2011, 02:27 AM
  #104  
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I suspected they might be Maudie, thanks for sorting that out.

eigasuki -

I had a feeling Rottnest was going to be less than awe inspiring, which is one reason I'd put it off for so long and why I went alone (spouse wasn't the least bit interested, in fact, he thanked me for 'not making him go').

But, I didn't think I should leave WA without having visited it at least once to form my own opinion, because, well, it's right THERE.

I can't help but think the tourists are being thoroughly had though. I mean really, Rottnest a must see? WA has so much better on offer.

Live and learn.
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Old Nov 12th, 2011, 04:36 PM
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Well it was an...experience? At least you can say you've seen it.

Looking forward to your next adventure!
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Old Nov 12th, 2011, 05:56 PM
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Mel, I have only been to Rottnest once myself for a weeks holiday many years ago when the kids were young, great safe place for them to bike and swim but yeah, I really don't get what the fuss is about either.
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Old Nov 12th, 2011, 06:16 PM
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Definitely an experience Toucan..you never know until you go...
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Old Nov 13th, 2011, 05:11 AM
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Hi Mel, Your experience of Rottnest doesn't sound as attractive as the guide book version lol.
I'd have been very frustrated with that subpar bike too but the quokkas do look cute.

I'm just checking this thread as my husband is in Perth right now. He's at the Hyatt but the conference is at the Pan Pacific. He spent today wandering around downtown area and walking along the river. He found it very quiet; will it be very different during the week do you think?

He won't have much free time this week apart from evenings (Monday to Wednesday) and he leaves on Thursday...So any recommendations for a relatively fancy expense account dinner on Wednesday? There will probably be a group of 5 or 6 and steak/fish/vegetarian options necessary to please them all.
Thanks
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Old Nov 13th, 2011, 02:00 PM
  #109  
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It'll be much different during the week sassy_cat, especially between about 9-6. The city comes alive during those hours.

I've got the perfect expense account dinner venue - we had one here ourselves a few weeks back - the food is lovely, the wine list staggering, the service excellent (very un-WA like!)
Their speciality is steak and seafood. They have a limited menu, and I was worried as I eat neither, so I called, and they offered to read the menu to me. Turns out they had a vegetarian option which suited me perfectly (not vegan though)
They seem very accommodating, so if the menu doesn't suit, I suggest calling ahead and seeing what they can do.

Balthazar
6 The Esplanade
9421 1206

http://yourrestaurants.com.au/guide/balthazar/

They don't have their own website (which is pretty common here in WA), but they're right in the city, an easy walk from most areas in the CBD. He'll need to book - this place is tiny and fills up.
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Old Nov 13th, 2011, 04:14 PM
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Well DH confirms that the city has come to life and all those closed coffee bars that he walked past yesterday are open today!
Thank you for the restaurant recommendation I've passed on the details. It sounds perfect and as the 'vegetarian' will eat some fish dishes I'm sure there will be something for everyone.
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Old Nov 13th, 2011, 06:48 PM
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If he goes to Balthazar, let me know what he thinks.
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Old Nov 14th, 2011, 04:55 AM
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As it turns out DH has several dinner invitations he can't refuse and the venues have already been chosen but he has booked a table at Balthazar for lunch tomorrow.

I'll let you know how it goes!
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Old Nov 15th, 2011, 07:41 AM
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DH highly recommends the date pudding and the filet at Balthazar. A colleague enjoyed duck and a zucchini/ courgette stir-fry (as described by my husband who doesn't tend to go into much detail when describing food!). Bill was $110 AUS for 2.

Dinner was meant to be at Little Caesars (an award winning pizza place?) but was cancelled as the sessions over ran. My husband was content as he was still full from lunch!

Thanks again for the recco.
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Old Nov 15th, 2011, 02:13 PM
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Oh good, glad they enjoyed it. Problem with lunch, you can't take advantage of that awesome wine list!

Little Caesars? Really?
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Old Nov 16th, 2011, 04:35 AM
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Yes, I agree about the wine list but my husband doesn't drink!

He took the train to Cottesloe beach early Wednesday morning had an enjoyable mooch around for a couple of hours and tomorrow morning with what is left of his free time he's hoping to see some kangaroos.

Oh and he ended up eating at Little Caesars last night. He was unimpressed but polite
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Old Nov 16th, 2011, 01:03 PM
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Huh. I'll have to ask around, see what that's all about.

I hope he enjoyed his short trip.
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Old Nov 16th, 2011, 01:57 PM
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Yes, he's enjoyed himself but it was a busy week and he had limited free time. No future visits planned but it's likely he'll be back sometime next year.
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Old Nov 19th, 2011, 06:36 PM
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31) Exploring Roleystone…

The much-dreaded Western Australia summer is within spitting distance; our hiking days are numbered. A beautiful spring morning in mid-November finds us fighting rush hour traffic on the Tonkin, Albany and Brookton Highways, headed to the Perth Hills, where we arrive an hour after leaving home. Our destination is Roleystone, a small community set amongst orchards and bushland, and unfortunately, the site of Perth’s most devastating fire in history, which occurred in February of this year.

From Brookton Highway we turn onto Croyden and ease our way through woodsy surroundings to our first stop of the day, Genesis in the Hills, a vegetarian restaurant I’ve been told about. We’re the only customers; we enjoy breakfast on their outdoor covered patio. Bill opts for the Shakshuka, two free range eggs baked in a frying pan on a bed of tomatoes, onions, halumi cheese and herbs, served with sourdough bread ($17.50). The carnivore is not impressed. I choose the ricotta pancakes served with ricotta cream and seasonal fruits ($14.50). They’re good, as are the piping hot flat whites.

We next seek out nearby Araluen Botanic Park, pay our $4 per person admission and spend the next two hours exploring the manicured lawns, flower-filled gardens and heritage buildings. It’s beautiful here. We walk most of the pathways, watch the ducks and just generally soak up the peaceful ambiance of the park. We’re too late for the tulips, but there are still flowers everywhere, including some lovely roses.

http://www.araluenbotanicpark.com.au/aboutf.html

We backtrack on Brookton Highway, make a left on Soldier and admire the big homes and steep driveways as we work our way to our final destination, Churchman Brook Dam. Here we walk up to and across the dam wall for some nice views of the reservoir. I was under the impression there were walk trails here, but we only find one short track that leads from the dam wall down along the parameter, which we follow through the bush and then back down to the picnic area. It’s just as well, the flies have grown tiresome…the hills are alive with snakes and flies.

http://www.watercorporation.com.au/D/dams_churchman.cfm

Photos here, 217-232: http://www.worldisround.com/articles.../photo217.html
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Old Mar 11th, 2012, 09:50 PM
  #119  
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32) A visitor from Up Over…

Relocation is looming, our days in Perth are numbered.

A good friend from the US (TJ) sees her last chance to visit us while we’re in Australia, and books a ‘detour to Perth’ while on a business trip to India. She’s energetic, but time poor, so I take the liberty of putting together a three day itinerary based upon what I feel are some of Perth's highlights, including some places that we've come to love during our time here. For practical reasons, they're sorted by area. We very much look forward to showing off our adopted city.

Friday - Swan Valley

We arrive at Caversham Wildlife Park as soon as they open at 9 am, pay our $23 per person admission and spend the next three hours exploring the park. Most Yanks want to see Australian wildlife, so I reckon this is the place to go. We roam the grounds, wander amongst the tame kangaroos, watch a sheep shearing demonstration, pet the wombat, pose with the koalas, etc. TJ is pleased as punch.

We then work our way deeper into the Swan Valley, first stopping at Talijancich for a taste of their fabulous fortified wines and to check out their new tasting room. Unfortunately, I’m the designated driver, so I can only drool as Bill and TJ oooh and ahhh over Talijancich’s incredible Liqueur Verdelho, Shiraz, White Liqueur and Shiraz Solaro. A fortified novice, TJ is gobsmacked with this elixir of the gods. It seems we’ve got another convert.

http://www.taliwine.com.au/home.php

We finally tear ourselves away and drive to our favorite Friday lunch venue, Lamont’s. Bill and I fell in love with Lamont’s the first time we stumbled in. They have a tapas style menu, and the food is consistently good. The wine isn't too shabby either (and Scotty is a kick in the pants).

After Bill and TJ sample the wine, we settle in for an alfresco feast. Today we share the pork rillette, with cornichon caper salsa & crostini ($14.50), a goats cheese & caramelized onion crepe with lemon oil ($14.50), smoked chicken breast, raisins, & green beans in a Chermoula yogurt sauce ($15.50), King prawns, avocado & rocket in a fresh mango and chili salsa ($16.50) and shaved Bresola, crispy leek & orange in a soy sesame dressing ($15.50). Every bite is a flavor explosion; it’s excellent.

Not wanting to overlook that other popular Aussie beverage, we soon find ourselves at Feral Brewing, where I look on as Bill and TJ share a beer sampler of their hand crafted award winning beer ($16.50).

http://www.feralbrewing.com.au/

We next seek out Battistessa Studio, on the recommendation of a fellow travel forum member. It doesn’t appear to be open, but as we wander about looking for the door, the artist himself appears and leads us into the dark, dusty recesses of his workshop, filled to the brim with all manner of rescued materials that he plans to turn into art. His ironwork is nothing short of amazing, as is the quirky artist. We spend the next hour or so in deep conversation with Antonio, discussing everything from art to travel to that most dangerous of all topics, American politics. At the risk of sounding like an old hippy, I can only describe Antonio as a complete and utter trip.

Days are short in the Swan Valley, and we find ourselves having to choose between Sandalford and the Margaret River Chocolate Company. TJ goes for the sugar, and we’re soon gathered around a fat slice of chocolate cake which we tuck into with three forks.

It’s been a very full and filling day.
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Old Mar 15th, 2012, 12:52 AM
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Saturday - Fremantle & CBD

We’re out the door at half past eight and driving to the nearest train station, where we park and catch a train to the Esplanade. From there we walk the 10 minutes to Barrack Street Jetty and board the 9:45 am Capt Cook Cruise to Fremantle ($25 each). This 75 minute cruise is an ideal introduction to Perth; anyone visiting us is likely to find themselves on it.

http://www.captaincookcruises.com.au/

We claim the only three seats on the outdoor deck and are treated to a fantastic view of the Perth city skyline as we pull away from the jetty. As we float down the Swan River the captain fills us in on what we’re looking at…huge amounts of money.

Although I’ve taken this cruise many times, the mansions on Millionaire’s Row and the wealth in this city still boggles my mind. I’m also consistently amazed at the challenges that face home builders through here. How they manage to squeeze in yet more humongous houses onto tiny sloping, exorbitantly priced lots that seem to fall directly into the river is a mystery; the building costs must be astronomical. I briefly wonder what it feels like to be a tourist attraction. “Off to your right is the home of mining mogul Melnq8, which last sold for 56 million dollars in 2010. Just last year she added a boathouse to store her six million dollar yacht, Nouveau-Riche.”

Yeah, that’ll happen.

We arrive in the port city of Fremantle just past 11 am and wander into the nearby E-shed markets; a mish-mash of stalls peddling food, clothing and all manner of junk, most of it imported. TJ has never heard of a didgeridoo, so I feel compelled to take her to Didgeridoo Breath on Market Street, where she not only learns what they are, but tries her hand at playing one. She also finds some Aussie made boomerangs to take home.

http://www.didgeridoobreath.com/

We wander the streets and admire the unique architecture. I suddenly have a new appreciation for Freo.

http://www.fremantlewesternaustralia...chitecture.htm

We happen upon an Australian Timber store, which we thoroughly investigate before working our way to Little Creatures Brewery, a Freo institution. This is apparently THE place to be on a Saturday afternoon; it’s absolutely packed. We settle in for some beer, nibbles and good conversation.

https://www.littlecreatures.com.au/

Stomachs happy, we walk to the Fremantle station and catch a train back to the city, disembarking at the end of the line, Perth City. From there it’s a 10 minute stroll to Bill’s office, where we take in the views of the Swan River from the 13th floor. I don’t know how anyone gets any work done up here.

Our energy is waning, but we forge on to Kings Park, making the arduous trek up the aptly named Mount Street. Business in the park is brisk; people are milling about everywhere, including several wedding parties taking photos in the late afternoon light. We admire the fantastic views and check the progress of the giant boab tree which was trucked in 3,200 kilometers from the Kimberley in 2008, arriving in Perth about the time we did. I’m happy to report that the boab is doing remarkably well, it’s a survivor that one.

http://www.bgpa.wa.gov.au/horticultu...the-giant-boab

We make it to the Lotterywest Federation Walkway mere minutes before it closes for the day, where we walk amongst the treetops surrounded by more glorious views.

http://www.bgpa.wa.gov.au/kings-park...ration-walkway

Officially out of steam, we retreat down Mount Street, walk to the Esplanade station and take a train back to where we started. Whew. This being a tourist is hard work!
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