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A taste of Perth (and vicinity)

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A taste of Perth (and vicinity)

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Old Apr 9th, 2011, 08:29 AM
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Have to head out for lunch right now as your post made me ravenous for olives.

Glad to hear it's getting cooler!
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Old Apr 9th, 2011, 06:00 PM
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Hi Mel,
Ellis Brook will be much prettier in spring when the wildflowers are out. Lots of Enamel orchids on the walk up from the main BBQ area. They come in different colours - purples to pinks.

http://www.waratahsoftware.com.au/pa..._pa220330.html
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Old Apr 9th, 2011, 06:29 PM
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Hi Maudie -

Maybe we'll give it another try come spring. Any suggestions for other walk tracks we should check out?
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Old Apr 10th, 2011, 03:35 AM
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Hi again,
Haven't read all of this post but we did come across this a few months ago but no way are we walking over summer! Part from this heat - I don't like snakes.
http://www.keptrack.com.au/

We did this a couple of weekends ago:
http://www.toptrails.com.au/index.ph...reserve-trail/ - but of course its down south.

South of the river: Have you walked from say Deepwater Point or the Raffles along the river past Heathcote and Applecross? Some lovely little cafes at Applecross Village on Ardross Street. We also enjoy walking from Point Walter heading in the Fremantle direction.

Churchman's Brook Dam is a nice area to wander around but wait until its cooler.

I will put my thinking cap on and see what else I can come up with.
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Old Apr 10th, 2011, 03:45 PM
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Thanks Maudie.
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Old Aug 9th, 2011, 12:22 AM
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26) The monks beckon...

Uncooperative weather forces us to postpone a visit to New Norcia twice in as many weeks, so waking to a beautiful Saturday morning and a willing spouse brings a huge smile to my face.

We leave the city under a cloudless August sky and work our way to the Great Northern Highway via Gnangara Road, a diversion necessitated by the temporary closure of the Reid Highway. We’re surrounded by bush and kangaroos, a bit of a surprise as we’re still relatively close to town.

We turn left onto West Swan Road, passing the naked winter vines of the Swan Valley wine region. Another left turn, and we’re on the Great Northern Highway, vibrant green pastures on either side of us as we work our way through the sprawling Perth Hills towards the town of Bindoon.

The Great Northern Highway is the longest intrastate highway in Australia; it’s predominantly a single carriageway (one lane in each direction) and provides access to Western Australia’s mining areas, the mineral rich regions of the Pilbara and the Kimberley. As such, the Great Northern is used extensively to transport mining equipment. Road trains can be as long as 36 meters (118 ft), loads can be up to five meters wide (16.4 ft) on weekdays and up to eight meters wide (26.2 ft) on weekends. This makes for some challenging conditions for the average passenger vehicle; there’s a lot of big and tall movement on this road.

Truckers monopolize the highway; we trail a procession of pilot vehicles and trucks with dongas (transportable buildings) perched precariously on their beds; we take it slow and easy, giving the unstable-looking monsters a very wide berth.

We wind our way through the rolling hills, passing trees laden with mandarins and fields of blooming canola. We can almost imagine that we’re in NZ; it’s green and woodsy, sheep and cows dot the countryside, but the trees are all wrong.

One hour and forty-five minutes after leaving Perth, we’re pulling into New Norcia, Australia’s only monastic town. It’s a wow moment; we think we know what to expect, but we’re startled by the sudden appearance of towering Spanish buildings incongruously rising from the red dirt of the Australia bush. An odd sight indeed.

We locate the museum, sign up for a two hour town tour ($15 each) and seek out the New Norcia Hotel for a coffee (or in Bill’s case, a glass of Abbey Ale and a wee bit of their Muscat, both delicious).

Our 11 am tour leaves from the museum. We’re warned that we’ll be crossing the Great Northern Highway, and that the wide loads on the passing trucks infringe upon the pedestrian pathway; we all cautiously cling to the left and reflexively duck our heads.

The next two hours are spent walking the grounds of New Norcia, admiring the architecture and frescoed interiors of its buildings; the Abbey Church, the Monastery and its chapel, the Old Convent Colleges, the Education Center, etc. We learn about the Indigenous, European and Missionary history of the monastery and enjoy stories of its colorful past. We discover that the town is surrounded by a 19,760 acre working farm, and that 27 of the town’s buildings are listed on the National Trust. New Norcia currently houses eight monks, retains 70 employees and supports itself through its farm, bakery, tourism and numerous school and town events. It’s an enlightening tour and a fascinating place…unfortunately, it’s far from tranquil; all that heavy truck traffic barrels right through town.

We’re invited to join the Benedictine monks for mass in the Holy Trinity Abbey Church, during one of their six daily prayers. Our stomachs are growling, so after the tour we head directly to the hotel instead, where we enjoy a lovely alfresco lunch on this beautiful cool day. We both choose the New Norcia Mediterranean Plate, marinated olives, feta cheese, pepper dews, sundried tomatoes, marinated artichoke hearts, roasted red capsicum and cacciatore sausage served with Turkish bread baked on the premises ($20 each). It’s a delicious feast, made all the better with a glass of their Abbey Ale, a high alcohol Trappist beer brewed specifically for New Norcia by Malt Shovel Brewery in New South Wales. Even the non-beer drinker can appreciate this one. We top things off with a slice of their famous nut cake, a rich sweet concoction made with fruit and nuts…it may be famous, but it’s not something I’ll need to try again, thanks.

We return the way we came, once again surrounded by massive trucks and their intimidating cargo as we work our way south. Road trains monopolize the scarce passing lanes, so we poke along, preferring to arrive alive.

On the drive up I noticed that the Bindoon Bakery had relocated, so we stop to investigate on our return. Sure enough, a chat with the proprietor reveals that the bakery moved into a new, much larger building 13 months ago. I pore over the massive selection of tempting goods, settling for a slice of chocolate whiskey cake and a coffee éclair. Both are taken home to share later.

New Norica photos here:

http://tripwow.tripadvisor.com/tripw...f-5e18-99a2?lb
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Old Aug 9th, 2011, 05:30 AM
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Hi Mel,
From your slideshow Norica appears to be a calm peaceful place. It's jarring to pair the images of the town with a soundtrack of constant heavy traffic until you see the size of those trucks, wow.. a white knuckle drive

Nice report, did you get to see any of the monks?
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Old Aug 9th, 2011, 12:17 PM
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Thanks sassy_cat. We only saw one monk, who popped into a chapel briefly. The public is invited to attend mass, but we took a pass on that one.
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Old Aug 14th, 2011, 01:42 AM
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Hi Mel,
Time to get out there and see the wild flowers, plenty of rain means its a good year.

http://www.westernaustralia.com/en/T...wer_Drive.aspx

Long link for a nice weekend drive.

Or this for a longer drive:
http://members.westnet.com.au/wester...inker/WFCP.htm
Very interesting place, accommodation was pretty basic when we were there a few years ago however the owners have a wealth of knowledge. The driving tour we did was brilliant. Great for an overnight stop.

http://members.ozemail.com.au/~wildflowers/manydays.htm
Another site full of info.

Wireless Hill in Applecross, just near Garden City Shopping Centre if starting to burst into life. Kangaroo Paws are coming out and some native orchids on their way in another 2 to 3 weeks.

We really must catch up! My email is ChloePuss at yahoo.com.au
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Old Aug 14th, 2011, 01:49 PM
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Another enjoyable report Mel!
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Old Aug 14th, 2011, 03:58 PM
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Thanks Maudie and Toucan. I'll take a look at those links.
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 12:29 AM
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27) A day out in Kalamunda

A beautiful morning in mid August; we take a convoluted alternative route to the Perth Hills in a misguided attempt to avoid the Friday morning traffic on the Tonkin and Roe highways. We miss a turn, the plan backfires; we end up exactly where we didn’t want to be. Oh well.

Many turns later, we find what we’re looking for, the Zig Zag Trail on Gooseberry Hill, a former railway switch point, now a narrow three kilometer one way road promising nice views over Perth. The road can be walked or driven, we drive; there are no footpaths and we’ve no interest in being run down. The views from the Zig Zag are nice enough, but certainly not worth going out of one’s way for. It isn’t very high, isn’t very steep and is only mildly interesting. The surrounding homes have some wonderful views and some relatively steep driveways, but the Zig Zag itself is underwhelming. Fortunately, it’s not our primary reason for coming to the Shire of Kalamunda.

We consult our Google map printouts and head to Forrestfield, where we seek out the Palm Terrace Walk, one of several I found on the Kalamunda website. Our directions lead us to the parking area of Lesmurdie Falls in Mundy Regional Park, where we find an information board for three walks, none of them called Palm Terrace. Huh.

We walk all three trails. One leads to the foot of the Lesmurdie Falls (which is an actual thundering waterfall thanks to our wet winter), one leads to a platform that protrudes from the canyon wall and leads above and beyond the falls, and the third (Valley Loop Trail) continues from there, leading across the brook and through bush, eventually depositing us back at the Palm Terrace car park. We don’t know if this is the walk we were looking for, but we enjoy it just the same. I wouldn’t call it particularly peaceful though. The acoustics are strange up here - we hear the roar of airplane engines, distant but surprisingly loud vehicle traffic and even a few trains (90 minutes, 1.9 miles, a bit steep and slippery in spots).

We next seek out the Carmel Walk in Pickering Brook. What Forrestfield and Pickering Brook have to do with Kalamunda I have no clue. Three years in Western Australia and I’m still baffled by the endless intertwined city, town, shire and suburbs. One minute I’m in Balcatta, the next I’m in Innaloo, and the next I’m in Mt Hawthorn... I have no idea where the boundaries are or why so many names are necessary. It’s all very confusing to someone who comes from a metropolitan area with one name.

This time my web notes save us. This trail is one of those you’d not know was there unless you knew it was there… it begins where two country roads meet (Anembo and Morton); no signs, no car park, just a large gravel rock and a tiny red arrow.

We pull off on the side of the road and embark on the Carmel Walk, which we find as advertised, ‘a pleasant loop walk in the Korung National Park’ (WA national parks are often complete wilderness areas, some don’t have roads or any markings). We enjoy this peaceful ramble through the bush. We skirt an orchard with mostly leafless trees, although some are covered in pretty pink blossoms (cherries?), and follow the detailed walk instructions that thankfully I remembered to tuck into my pocket (“ignore a track to the left, at the T junction, take the left branch”, etc). It’s an enjoyable walk, 90 minutes 3.36 miles.

Ready for sustenance, we backtrack to Kalamunda (the town) and begin our search for a lunch venue I’ve scoped out. Despite our pile of Google printouts, we have to stop and ask for directions, but we eventually manage to locate Embers, a lovely Italian restaurant on the outskirts of town.

We share an entree of crusty bread with olive oil and balsamic vinegar, it’s a large portion; four huge chunks of bread and a big bowl of oil/balsamic, quite filling ($4.50).

Bill orders the Puttanesca, with chorizo, anchovies, olives, capers, spring onions, fresh chili and fettuccini in a napolitana sauce. He proclaims it excellent and somehow manages to consume the entire heaping portion ($22).

I’m unable to finish my Tortellini Carbonara; it’s excellent, but seriously rich; bacon, parmesan cheese and chicken tortellini in a white wine and cream sauce. Most of it goes home with me and is shared for dinner ($22).

The food is lovely, the portions generous, but we’re most impressed by the attentive, friendly service...the best we’ve had in our three years in WA.

Photos here: 180-187

http://www.worldisround.com/articles.../photo180.html
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Old Aug 18th, 2011, 09:58 AM
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Wow, you have already been there 3 years? Time does fly. Love the pic of the stuffed Koala on the warning sign.
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Old Aug 19th, 2011, 01:36 AM
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Hi Toucan -

Perhaps he's the trail marker?
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Old Aug 19th, 2011, 09:12 AM
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LOL if so he is doing a fine job.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2011, 05:13 PM
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28) A walk amongst the dead…

A gorgeous morning in late August, I grab my camera and drive north on the Mitchell Freeway towards Joondalup. The southbound lanes are bumper-to-bumper chaos, the radio announcer advises there’s been a rollover and three alternate routes are also affected…it’s a good time to be going north.

I take the Whitfords Road exit and almost immediately spot the sign for Pinnaroo Valley Memorial Park. I wouldn’t normally seek out a cemetery for recreation, but I’ve read that Pinnaroo isn’t your average cemetery, it’s even listed as an ‘attraction’ on several WA tourist sites; I’m intrigued.

http://www.mcb.wa.gov.au/OurCemeteries/Pinnaroo.aspx

A quick left turn and I’m parked and walking the grounds, giving wide berth to a cluster of black clad mourners awaiting a service. Pinnaroo Valley feels very much like a park with its manicured lawns, koi pond, water features and fountains. It’s fringed by bush; the Banksias and wattles are in early bloom; gum trees sway against the vivid blue sky.

There are no headstones, but that this is a cemetery is immediately obvious. Plaques are embedded in almost every brick circling the fountains and traverse every pathway. Most of the markers are topped with colorful, yet depressingly gaudy artificial flowers of all description. Pinnaroo claims to be the most environmentally responsible cemetery in Australia and it may be, but ‘environmentally responsible’ + artificial flowers strikes me as a bit of an oxymoron (however, the existing tribute and flower policy is currently under review).

I wander the courtyards, most named after Australian flora. I read the inscriptions, study the photos of those lost and quietly contemplate life. This is the perfect place for peaceful reflection and solitude. I happen upon 15-20 grey kangaroos, quietly munching away on a sprawling lawn. They eye me warily and head into the bush when a maintenance crew disrupts the peace with a chainsaw and wood chipper. I retreat to the café for an alfresco coffee, tilt my face towards the warming sun and enjoy what’s left of winter. I overhear snippets of conversation as mourners mill about sharing hugs and condolences.

I return to where I saw the kangaroos, hoping for a few photos. They’re there, quietly lounging in the bush. As I creep forward, camera in hand, two kangaroos rear up on their hind legs and begin boxing. It’s a great photo opportunity, but I bemoan my inadequate zoom lens as I look on.

Photos here: 188-197

http://www.worldisround.com/articles.../photo188.html
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Old Aug 23rd, 2011, 07:52 PM
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Mel, If I hadn't read your description of the feisty kangaroos I'd have thought they were exchanging rings after their wedding vows; they look so sweet!
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Old Aug 23rd, 2011, 11:05 PM
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I'm not sure what they were doing sassy_cat, but it looked friendly enough...mating ritual perhaps? Maybe an Aussie can fill us in.
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Old Aug 28th, 2011, 03:06 PM
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Wow Mel, as I understand it you were treated to a fairly rare sight(Australians can correct me if I am wrong). My friend Fiona's Dad said he only saw them boxing once, and he farmed near Newcastle his entire life. Maybe he was pulling my leg, but he didn't seem to be.
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Old Oct 6th, 2011, 01:26 AM
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29) Wildflowers in the Wheatbelt…

Late September and I’ve got a hankering to drive up north into the Wheatbelt to look for wildflowers. Never mind that I can’t walk a block in my neighborhood without tripping over several wildflower species…never mind that Kings Park is just a train ride away and that the park holds a wildflower festival each September; I want to go north, just because it’s there.

I’ve seen Wongan Hills tossed around on another forum; I do my homework and discover that there are several walking tracks, a couple of overlooks, and that this very week is supposedly the perfect time for orchid spotting. It isn’t close, some ~70 kilometers east of New Norcia, heck, it’s not even on my Perth and vicinity map…naturally, I’m intrigued.

http://www.wongan.wa.gov.au/shire-tourism.asp

I’ve promised Bill that if we play our cards right, we can stop in New Norcia for a late lunch and an Abbey Ale. He’s game.

We’re on the road well before 7 am, taking the Reid Highway to the Great Northern Highway, working our way through the Swan Valley, the grape vines beginning to green up and wildflowers (or weeds, I’m never sure which) virtually everywhere.

We’re in the country in no time, both looking forward to a breakfast stop in Bindoon, dodging the usual heavy truck traffic (and I mean HEAVY, as in road trains and mining equipment being hauled to the mines up north). I notice a distressing abundance of road side crosses, a poignant reminder of the challenges of driving along this road.

We wander through bright green rolling hills and pasture, skirt orange and mandarin groves and arrive at the Bindoon Bakehaus & Cafe just after 8 am. It’s a gorgeous spring morning, clear and cool. I know Bill’s hoping for a plate of Eggs Bennie, but only pies and pastries are on offer, albeit a huge variety of them. I go for a warm ricotta spinach roll; Bill orders the eggs, bacon and tomato pie, but upon breaking into it, he discovers he’s been given the spicy vegetable pie instead. This happens to him a lot, I don’t understand why he so seldom gets what he orders here in WA. I urge him to take it back, he just grumbles and eats it anyway, saying that it’s actually pretty good ($17 total including two large flat whites).

We continue our drive north, surrounded by vibrant yellow canola fields. We turn right on Calingiri West Road and ease our way east, entering the Shire of Victoria Plains. The road reminds us of South Dakota – straight - we crest one hill just to see two more identical hills ahead. We’re surrounded by staggering amounts of yellow.

It gets drier as we approach Calingiri, the trees briefly become very odd, gnarled and spooky looking, reminiscent of a recent visit to Goblin Swamp in the SW of WA. We think we’ve lost the heavy equipment, but alas, there are road trains back here too.

The landscape begins to feel ‘outbacky; dry, dusty and covered in red dirt. We see a sign for a wildflower walk, so we turn right on Bindi Bind- Toodyay Road. We drive several kilometers; there are no other signs regarding the walk, so we turn around and head in the opposite direction towards Wongan Hills.

It very much feels like a wheatbelt out here…flat, agricultural, flat, few trees, flat…it looks exactly like you’d expect a wheatbelt to look. We stop at an out-of place looking lake, Lake Ninan, which we learn is six times saltier than the sea and provides no food, therefore no birds. We continue on the lonely road, arriving in Wongan Hills, home of “Trailers, Trails and Tractors” more than 3.5 hours after leaving Perth. The Shire of Wongan Hills-Ballidu has about 1,140 residents, give or take.

Our first stop is the Visitor’s Center, where we’re given a map and hints on where to go. We head east to the Mount O’Brian Lookout, stopping to photograph wildflowers along the way. We’re swarmed by flies as we walk to the summit, the second highest place in Wongan Hills at a whopping 424 meters above sea level. Magnificent views have been promised. Yes, there are views, but ‘magnificent’ is a bit of a stretch. We move on to Mount Matilda, the highest point in the vicinity at 434 meters. Two trails originate from here, a five kilometer wildflower walk and an 8 kilometer scenic walk. The flies are annoying; we’re suddenly in no mood for a long walk.

We meander, making stops at Roger’s Reserve and Elphin Reserve, hunting for wildflowers, but not finding much more than fields of yellow blooms that we suspect are weeds. We walk the 2.6 kilometer Christmas Rock trail, where we do find some interesting wildflowers….and plenty of flies. My camera battery unexpectedly dies; all those macro shots have taken their toll.

We leave town in the opposite direction that we came, via Waddington-Wongan Hills Road, through more flat agricultural land and a smattering of trees; there’s not much else out here; it’s pretty desolate and lonely.

We eventually rejoin the Great Northern Highway and turn south. Ten miles north of New Norcia it becomes pretty again; more trees, more hills, more green. We pull into New Norica 15 minutes before the hotel restaurant closes for the day, and settle in for a nice lunch and a glass of Abbey Ale on the patio (two Mediterranean plates and two glasses of ale, $47 total).

Then it’s back to the Great Northern for the remaining 130 kilometer drive back to Perth. We make a quick stop in Bindoon to re-visit the bakery (yes, twice in the same day!), to pick up some chocolate cake for later. Yum.

Photos here:

http://tripwow.tripadvisor.com/tripw...3-80f0-4636?lb
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