Well, first of all, thanks to LizF who met us at Hobart airport and gave us a quick introduction to Hobart area. Thanks for the Richmond Bakery tip, Liz, we kept gravitating back to it. Those Tassie scallop pies are beyond belief, I tried them in other Tassie spots, but the Richmond Bakery's were the best. Down to Huon Valley and Liz's lovely B&B at Margate, overlooking D'Enrecasteaux Channel (www.waterviewgardens.bigpondhosting.com) Liz and Geoff have picked a top spot here, the established park-like gardens are truly stunning -coming from the tropics we had fears of being cold, but its a suntrap and sheltered from wind by North Bruny Island and I actually had to go and buy some sleeveless t-shirts. After the gardens end, there's a wonderful sweep of green grazing land where cows are happily munching away. Rooms are spacious and both have lovely rural and water views and the quality of local produce in Tasmania ensures unforgettable breakfasts. Its amazing to think that only a year ago, Liz and Geoff, when they lived at Tamborine Mountain in Queensland, were showing us around the sights of the Gold Coast hinterland as well as some of the most bizarre architecture of new multi-millionaire homes on Sovereign Island. This is a lovely B&B in Tassie, Liz and Geoff are not only top hosts (I mean Geoff plucked about a kilo of blackberries for our breakfast), they really go out of their way to make sure guests will have a top Tassie experience.

Hi pat- It sounds like you enjoyed your trip.

Do you intend to keep your report on one thread which will make it easier for your readers to follow? Also, paragraphs make it easier to read.

I'm anxious for more!

Sorry to be so slack on this but I had to resume working my business the second I arrived home in Cairns with a lot to catch up with and yesterday acquired two baby spoodles who are full on - every time I go to the fridge for a refreshing wine a puppy clambers into fridge.

So, to continue ... next day Liz and Geoff drove us around spots in Huon Valley, great little places like Kettering where ferry leaves for Bruny Island then on to a cheese maker using sheep's milk - cheese and wine tasting there and top products, this was just a teeny preview of some of the great food in this state. Also interesting to watch sheep, instead of dairy cows making their way to milking shed, and fairly skipping away after they'd been milked.

On to quaint little town of Cygnet with historical buildings, then over to Matilda's at Ranelagh B&B near Huonville. What a lovely old country home this is, beautifully restored, huge rooms, timber panelling, original stained glass, and wonderful gardens with old oast house, and Pam, a most convivial host - www.matildasofranelagh.com.au

Not too far was the Tahune Air Walk - spectacular tree tops walkway over rainforest at confluence of Huon and Picton Rivers - a totally different, and much cooler, rainforest experience to what we see in FNQ.

Then it was a delicious dinner at Petty Sessions restaurant at Franklin -a prettily restored old timber building - abalone was on the menu which I had as entree, which didn't leave much room for the enormous serving of venison pie washed down with a delightful red. Thanks for driving us back to your place, Liz!

To be continued ...

Loving this report, Pat! Last October we stayed at Mathilda's (loved it), spent a few fun minutes with Liz and Geoff and their parrot, whose name I can't recall. Their house was under construction at the time. We ejoyed their garden and the awesome view from the backyard. We did the Tahune airwalk and stopped by Petty Sessions for lunch afterward. We were the first guests in their newly opened back room.

Waiting for more. Enjoy the new pups!

Oops! Just checked the link to Liz's website. My apologies to Major Mitchell for calling him a parrot. Of course, he's a cockatoo, and a very beautiful one at that.

Liz's place is at Margate! was at Margate only weekend before last - and I missed her! Bet she's breathing easier for knowing that!

Nice reports, Pat. And by the way, in the US a spoodle is usually called a cockapoo. I like spoodle a lot better!
Sally in Seattle

Margo, what a shame, we missed you also by a whisker!

Betsy, Liz and Geoff's cockatoo is called Mitch, he's a Major Mitchell Cockatoo, one of Australia's most attractive cockatoos, he's a great talker and calls Liz "Elizabeth", amongst other names, I believe.

Sally, I think cockapoo was name for spoodle in Oz also until fairly recently,but suppose "spoodle" goes better with every other poodle cross going which have become incredibly popular, today I met a "foodle" - cross poodle/fox terrier. and have owned a labradoodle for 15 years and she's been a terrific dog.

OK, back to Tassie - Geoff and Liz kindly drove us back to Hobart where we picked up a rental car. There's some similarities about Hobart and Sydney, even though Hobart is much smaller. So many street names in both cities are the same, not surprising I suppose as they're the two oldest capital cities in Australia with Hobart being settled after Sydney.

Headed off to Port Arthur, sort of had slight misgivings about visiting here after the massacre of tourists and local guides in 1996, but it is a "must do". Its an amazing historic site and beautifully kept, with an interpretive centre illuminating the fearfully cruel history of the convict prisoners shipped out from England - far too complicated to even touch on here. It's well worth using one of the guides here, I think it was $17 admittance plus another $8 for guided tour.

The Broad Arrow cafe which must be imprinted on every Australian's mind from the 1996 massacre, is of course, closed, there's a memorial garden behind it with the names of the 35 victims murdered.

We forego the ghost tour at Port Arthur as hadn't booked any accommodation and it was getting late. Found a B&B a few kms back, Norfolk Bay Convict Station, at Taranna, right on waterfront of Little Norfolk Bay. A truly historic old building with lots of local history - ie, the first "railway line" in Australia - wooden carts on wooden railway lines and convict powered. www.convictstation.com Owner had some interesting opinions on changes in area since the 1996 massacre, regarding understandable loss of locals who left the area. And he's not too impressed with the new blood which has come in.

Nearby is a great restaurant, Mussel Boys, and whilst the waiter was a bit snooty the local seafood was terrific.

Just have to pipe in here and say that tonight I went with the neighbours to a restaurant in Hobart down at the docks called " Harbour Lights ". I don't usually go to restaurants which serve Italian food but this one was really lovely. It has views over the dock area and is low in cost but high in quality. Certainly one to remember if you are in Hobart.

Another good restaurant in Hobart is Fish Frenzy, on the Elizabeth Street Pier.

http://www.fishfrenzy.com.au/

So enjoying your trip report, Pat, which brings back such fond memories of our 10 day ‘circumnavigation’ of Tassie, and especially our stay in the Huon Valley.

Our accommodation B&B ‘find’ was the most devine self-contained 100 year old cottage with open wood fireplace, on a property at Maple Hill, overlooking Castle Forbes Bay, a small apple orchard and rolling hills. There was a resident cockatoo, dogs, goats and chooks, and beautiful private gardens with ponds, little bridges and seating dotted all over the property to enjoy the breath-taking views and spectacular gardens. All this, plus full breakfast including fresh-baked bread and eggs from the property’s chooks, for AU$100 per couple.
http://tinyurl.com/2btp9o


Of all our great accommodations, this one stole our hearts and we’d be back in a flash

Looking forward to the rest of your report!

Jackie

Thanks Furry, that one sounds a gem too.

So an early start, the roosters got going at the B&B at dawn, as roosters do, it was Saturday so we headed back into Hobart for Salamanca Market where the heavens opened, for a while at least. Wandered around Constitution Wharf for a bit, so like the sandstone buildings of Sydney Rocks, but weather wasn't doing any favours so we headed west but not before stopping at the one and only Richmond bakery. I don't know how many awards this place has won, but there's a whole wall plastered with them - apart from the aforementioned wonderful scallop pies, there's about every other treat you could imagine. Including something I haven't seen for years - Banberry slices - delicious with the finest, flakiest pastry. If you're maybe getting the idea that food plays a big part in our travels, you're dead right.

Through pretty New Norfolk area to Hamilton where there was some wonderful little convict cottage accommodation, but it was too early to stop for night. So decided to head to west coast, didn't look far on map. Pretty soon as the country changed from rolling pastureland to steep and windy heavily forested roads it became apparent that it may be a bit far to make Strahan before nightfall. Stopped at somewhere for petrol, I think called Derwent Bridge, it was freezing! The woman at the servo said it could easily snow, and was pouring in Strahan, so decided to find a place for night a bit further on in Queenstown. A lunar landscape in this old mining town, after years of environmental horrors, but interesting little town. As you drive into town there's a sign on road "Queenstown - Around the Bend". So after a quick look around town we found the best looking motel, can't remember name, nothing in there has changed since 1965 but room was clean and warm and it had a restaurant, well a buffet. Under strict instruction from manager we booked a table, which was odd as there were only 6 people dining and the waitress insisted that she "introduced us to the buffet" before we could eat. Pulled the wrong rein here, should have gone for fish, but other choice was somewhat fascinatingly described as "Russian Beef" - it was terrible, turned out to be silverside floating in thick brown gravy. But only bad meal in 10 days.

Sorry for delay here, tsunami warnings in Cairns and other spots caused a bit of drama earlier in week. NE Qld escaped, sadly not so for some around Solomon Islands.

So back to Tassie, and onwards to Strahan which was looking forward to as had heard so much about the immense Macquarie Harbour and the infamous convict settlement at Sarah Island. There's a wilderness Railway through King River Gorge and cruises of Gordon River as well as scenic flights, but the weather against us here.

Very low dark clouds, and also very cold for us tropical wimps, so just had breakfast and took off. Am sure Strahan and its nearby wilderness would be lovely under a blue sky, but that wasn't to be. Really wild and windswept coast around here on Southern Ocean. Headed north through old mining towns, such as Zeehan - although Tasmania's distances look short on maps, there's a lot of twisting roads and steep country. Some really pretty forested country around here with a lot of trucks carrying felled timber; this is where you do see a lot of road kill. Tasmania isn't nearly as heavily trafficked as many other parts of Australia and local drivers seemed courteous and not in a rush to go anywhere, so it seems that there is just an lot more wildlife to be killed than is left in many other parts of country. Mainly all at night, which is why we never drive after dusk unless its imperative.

About now Cradle Mountain is looming and weather is closing in again, after a discussion about turning off to Cradle Mtn or heading north to coast, the coast won. And bright and sunny it was, stopped at the little seaside town of Penguin for a late lunch at markets. These markets, the week before had received Australia-wide publicity on TV's 7.30 Report and were packed. About time for looking for somewhere to sleep - B&B's too far away from restaurants in town so headed off to Ulverstone.

Very average and dated motel room, but just a hop from Pedro's seafood restaurant on riverfront - terrific seafood and probably a good idea to pre-book here as it was busy. Woken in morning to about 100 galahs squawking on power lines.

Launceston next stop, suddenly weather became quite hot. En-route there's a lovely little town called Westbury, very English looking, with gardens ablaze with hollyhocks, etc.

Elphin Motel in Launceston was fine, and gave us wotif rates without our asking. Just don't park your car under oak tree! Receptionist here recommended Indian Empire restaurant in George St, and will be ever thankful to her. North Indian style meals there were superb.

TBC

Thought I'd better check out a bit of family history whilst in Launceston as knew I had a great grandfather there who was sometime mayor of the town, but this side of family petered out about 25 years ago when the last unmarried aunt died. Launceston Museum is set in a rather handsome Victorian building, but no sign of great great grandpa there. But a very interesting exhibit on the thylacine, or thought-to-be extinct Tasmanian tiger. Was told to check the community library for records of grandpa and there he was, met his end when shot by an escaped convict turned bushranger.

On to the pretty little town of Scottsdale for lunch - had in interesting chat with the barmaid at the pub (barmaids know everything!) - and then on to Bridestowe to see lavender farm - don't know how many times have seen this featured in full flowering glory on travel shows. Bit late in season though, Jan-Feb is time to see this at its best. Actually found the scent in its shop overpowering - no wonder, just about everything is lavender infused or coloured.

On to the east coast, managed to get a pic of an echidna safely crossing road, fortunately not much traffic so the little fellow made it in one piece. For those who mightn't know, the echidna and platypus are monotremes, the only two animals in the world which lay eggs but suckle their young from milk glands.

Here, and throughout other parts of rural Tasmania you'll see fox warning signs, introduced only recently by some lunatic, apparently from the mainland, where foxes, and other such follies as rabbits, were introduced by our English forebears. Signs ask you to call a number should you sight a fox, in the hope they can be eradicated before they destroy too much native wildlife.

TBC

Afternoon found us in St Helens on east coast in perfect weather. One look at the Bay of Fires was enough, let's stay a while. Because we're not very good at pre-booking accommodation it was a bit tricky, with many "no vacancy" signs out on B&B's and other accommodation, but found a place called Queechy's - about 5 mins south of town. Newly renovated and very comfortable 2 bedroom self contained cabins, with lovely water views through the gum trees - under $90 a night for three, how could you go wrong. There's an older part of Queechy's with a good restaurant and wine list, so you don't need to go into the little town to eat.

Bay of Fires is stunning, the colours of water equal that of Great Barrier Reef, but of course water is much colder. So spent 2 days wandering around all the beaches and getting a bit of exercise. But much too cold for us to venture into sea. From memory the beaches weren't life saver patrolled and really didn't see anyone swimming at this time of year. At Binalong Bay there's a restaurant, Angasi, with a knock-out view straight up to Bay of Fires, it was a shame that by lunchtime it had run out of its namesake, angasi oysters, but the view made up for it.

After a couple of days headed south to Bicheno, suddenly realised we'd forgotten to look for penguins, there were plenty here in evening. Had to see Tasmanian Devils, and there's a wildlife park just north of Bicheno, East Coast Natureworld, with lots of them, what feisty creatures. The keeper was feeding them on wallaby legs, one each a day per devil, and did they demolish them. Apparently have 5 times the strength of a dog of their size; when they're mad, and it doesn't take much to infuriate them, the whites of their eyes and inside of ears turn bright red. Talk about blood rushing to the head!

Lots of other familiar native wildlife in this park and well worth a visit.

On to Coles Bay in Freycinet Nat Park, enroute there's a small sign pointing to Freycinet Marine Farm. Follow the dirt road and find some of the best oysters ever, $12 a dozen, you can eat them there or take away. Also crayfish and mussels, farmed in some of the cleanest water in the world.

Enjoying this report Pat. Keep it up.

Glad you enjoyed Binalong Bay - we loved it and had a wonderful meal at Angasi.