Who says you can't travel all the way to Bangkok for just five days? Trip report by mr/ms_go.
Nov 25th, 2008, 03:28 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Who says you can't travel all the way to Bangkok for just five days? Trip report by mr/ms_go.
<b>Preface:</b> we are saddened to hear about the increase in political unrest this week and hope for a quick and peaceful resolution.
Not everyone would choose to celebrate their 20th anniversary by venturing nearly 10,000 miles to a place they’d never been. Still fewer would want to celebrate such an occasion by throwing fresh produce at wild primates. With that in mind, it is so fortunate (for both of us) that we found each other and decided to spend our lives together...because that’s exactly the kind of people we both are!
About a year ago, we began considering what to do for our 20th anniversary. Being the travel-obsessed folks that we are, we knew we wanted to celebrate with an interesting trip and to visit somewhere that we hadn’t been before. Given that this would be during the school year and we’d be arranging “coverage” for the teenager at home, we knew it wouldn’t be a long trip—-probably a week at the most. We wanted to go someplace relatively warm, although we certainly weren’t looking for a beach vacation.
Eventually, we narrowed our options to two: Buenos Aires and Bangkok. Although it seemed a long way to go with only one week or so—-including travel days-—we chose Bangkok. If not now, then when? we asked. It was the right time of year. We typically have to travel in the summer due to school schedules, and we weren’t sure this was a destination we wanted to visit in July. We weren’t terribly concerned about jet lag. We’ve traveled enough that we’ve learned to adjust. So, we booked our air and set off on a long process of planning so as to make the best use of our time.
We read the <i>Fodors Top 25</i> book on Bangkok, and bought and studied the Nancy Chandler map (plus a laminated map for navigating). Mostly, we searched and researched this forum. Our primary planning thread is here:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35152526
A collective thank you to all who post re: Bangkok here—-there are too many to try to name without forgetting someone. Your experiences and input were invaluable. A special thanks, too, to Mrs. Bobthenavigator for flying in to spend a week with her granddaughter so that we could get away (and, of course, to Bob for giving up his “girlfriend” for more than a week).
Before I go on with the report, a bit about us for context. We are 45, fairly fit, from the Midwest U.S., love to explore and see new things, not necessarily foodies, not shoppers, and not particularly fussy travelers, more the easygoing adventurer types, and we love to take pictures. We’ve traveled extensively in Europe, but this was mr_go’s first trip to Asia and just my second (I’ve previously been to Japan, and we will visit there as a family next March/April).
Apologies for the delay in posting this trip report; I almost immediately turned around and headed out of town for a week that certainly won’t fall into the category of “fun.” In fact, if I ever get around to writing a trip report about that one, it will be entitled, <i>Highway to Hell,</i> after the AC/DC song that so appropriately played on the radio as I was driving out of Blythe, California, and into the darkness of the Arizona desert. Assess penalties if you must...
Not everyone would choose to celebrate their 20th anniversary by venturing nearly 10,000 miles to a place they’d never been. Still fewer would want to celebrate such an occasion by throwing fresh produce at wild primates. With that in mind, it is so fortunate (for both of us) that we found each other and decided to spend our lives together...because that’s exactly the kind of people we both are!
About a year ago, we began considering what to do for our 20th anniversary. Being the travel-obsessed folks that we are, we knew we wanted to celebrate with an interesting trip and to visit somewhere that we hadn’t been before. Given that this would be during the school year and we’d be arranging “coverage” for the teenager at home, we knew it wouldn’t be a long trip—-probably a week at the most. We wanted to go someplace relatively warm, although we certainly weren’t looking for a beach vacation.
Eventually, we narrowed our options to two: Buenos Aires and Bangkok. Although it seemed a long way to go with only one week or so—-including travel days-—we chose Bangkok. If not now, then when? we asked. It was the right time of year. We typically have to travel in the summer due to school schedules, and we weren’t sure this was a destination we wanted to visit in July. We weren’t terribly concerned about jet lag. We’ve traveled enough that we’ve learned to adjust. So, we booked our air and set off on a long process of planning so as to make the best use of our time.
We read the <i>Fodors Top 25</i> book on Bangkok, and bought and studied the Nancy Chandler map (plus a laminated map for navigating). Mostly, we searched and researched this forum. Our primary planning thread is here:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35152526
A collective thank you to all who post re: Bangkok here—-there are too many to try to name without forgetting someone. Your experiences and input were invaluable. A special thanks, too, to Mrs. Bobthenavigator for flying in to spend a week with her granddaughter so that we could get away (and, of course, to Bob for giving up his “girlfriend” for more than a week).
Before I go on with the report, a bit about us for context. We are 45, fairly fit, from the Midwest U.S., love to explore and see new things, not necessarily foodies, not shoppers, and not particularly fussy travelers, more the easygoing adventurer types, and we love to take pictures. We’ve traveled extensively in Europe, but this was mr_go’s first trip to Asia and just my second (I’ve previously been to Japan, and we will visit there as a family next March/April).
Apologies for the delay in posting this trip report; I almost immediately turned around and headed out of town for a week that certainly won’t fall into the category of “fun.” In fact, if I ever get around to writing a trip report about that one, it will be entitled, <i>Highway to Hell,</i> after the AC/DC song that so appropriately played on the radio as I was driving out of Blythe, California, and into the darkness of the Arizona desert. Assess penalties if you must...
Nov 25th, 2008, 03:39 PM
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Where to stay?</b>
One of the attractions of Bangkok, to be honest, was the ability to take a sizable step up from our usual type of accommodation (in Europe, we’re generally 3* B&B types), without necessarily breaking the bank.
The first decision was that we wanted to be along the river-—well, just because it seemed like the right thing to do for a first trip to Bangkok. We looked at all the usual suspects but decided we really couldn’t pass up the Peninsula. I won’t go into a huge amount of detail here, as it has been written about to death. We’ll just say that we loved the Peninsula—-virtually everything about it.
We received a comp upgrade from deluxe to grand deluxe (similar room; higher floor) at check-in. And shortly after arrival in our room (at 1am), the hotel delivered a very large chocolate torte in recognition of our anniversary. Off to a good start!
Having the frequent boat service across the river to the BTS station, the Pen pier and the Oriental was very convenient. Because the Pen has multiple boats, we never waited more than about five minutes at any location. And, the boatmen were always so pleasant, often inquiring about our plans and offering suggestions. We never felt like we were staying on the wrong side of the river.
We didn’t select a package with breakfast. The buffet, of course, looked wonderful. But, we’re not big breakfast eaters, and as it was we almost killed ourselves with food on this trip. A full breakfast buffet every day may have done us in. The Pen leaves a bowl of fresh fruit in the room every day. That, combined with a 40 baht brioche from the gift shop down stairs, was plenty to keep us going through lunch. We were a bit surprised that there was no tea/coffee equipment in the room. On our first morning, mr_go asked the concierge if it might be possible to get a coffee maker, and within 10 minutes, one appeared, along with a canister of ground coffee (none of those coffee-bag things here!) sufficient for the entire week.
The Pen has an array of nice looking restaurants, but we were seeking more of a non-hotel dining experience and did not try any of them—-except for a light and casual lunch outside by the river one day. As an aside, the restaurants never looked to be very full.
We enjoyed the pool a couple of times; after all, it was a vacation. Both times, we had no trouble getting one of the salas, which are very nice.
We took the Pen’s new cocktail cruise on our first night there, as we were a bit tired (26 hours of traveling—you think!!) For about 1,500 baht (once the ++ is factored in), you get unlimited drinks and ample appetizers. The water was a bit choppy that evening, so we really did have to hold on to the drinks. But, it was nice to see the sites along the river at sunset. And, because the Pen uses one of its regular boats, which has been adapted for the cruise, it is a small group—-not one of those huge party boats with blaring music. There were only eight guests, plus a staff of four. Pricey but nice.
We only had a couple of minor quibbles. The housekeeping schedule was a bit erratic. The first day, our room was not made up until almost 5pm. Three out of five days, we returned to the room in the afternoon only to find the housekeeping sign on the door—-a bit inconvenient, but we’ll live with it, as they’re very thorough. Oh, and there’s no ATM on site. The closest one is at a 7-11 down on Charoennakom Road.
I'm spoiled for life, I’m afraid. Now, to win the lottery...
http://www.peninsula.com/Bangkok/en/default.aspx
One of the attractions of Bangkok, to be honest, was the ability to take a sizable step up from our usual type of accommodation (in Europe, we’re generally 3* B&B types), without necessarily breaking the bank.
The first decision was that we wanted to be along the river-—well, just because it seemed like the right thing to do for a first trip to Bangkok. We looked at all the usual suspects but decided we really couldn’t pass up the Peninsula. I won’t go into a huge amount of detail here, as it has been written about to death. We’ll just say that we loved the Peninsula—-virtually everything about it.
We received a comp upgrade from deluxe to grand deluxe (similar room; higher floor) at check-in. And shortly after arrival in our room (at 1am), the hotel delivered a very large chocolate torte in recognition of our anniversary. Off to a good start!
Having the frequent boat service across the river to the BTS station, the Pen pier and the Oriental was very convenient. Because the Pen has multiple boats, we never waited more than about five minutes at any location. And, the boatmen were always so pleasant, often inquiring about our plans and offering suggestions. We never felt like we were staying on the wrong side of the river.
We didn’t select a package with breakfast. The buffet, of course, looked wonderful. But, we’re not big breakfast eaters, and as it was we almost killed ourselves with food on this trip. A full breakfast buffet every day may have done us in. The Pen leaves a bowl of fresh fruit in the room every day. That, combined with a 40 baht brioche from the gift shop down stairs, was plenty to keep us going through lunch. We were a bit surprised that there was no tea/coffee equipment in the room. On our first morning, mr_go asked the concierge if it might be possible to get a coffee maker, and within 10 minutes, one appeared, along with a canister of ground coffee (none of those coffee-bag things here!) sufficient for the entire week.
The Pen has an array of nice looking restaurants, but we were seeking more of a non-hotel dining experience and did not try any of them—-except for a light and casual lunch outside by the river one day. As an aside, the restaurants never looked to be very full.
We enjoyed the pool a couple of times; after all, it was a vacation. Both times, we had no trouble getting one of the salas, which are very nice.
We took the Pen’s new cocktail cruise on our first night there, as we were a bit tired (26 hours of traveling—you think!!) For about 1,500 baht (once the ++ is factored in), you get unlimited drinks and ample appetizers. The water was a bit choppy that evening, so we really did have to hold on to the drinks. But, it was nice to see the sites along the river at sunset. And, because the Pen uses one of its regular boats, which has been adapted for the cruise, it is a small group—-not one of those huge party boats with blaring music. There were only eight guests, plus a staff of four. Pricey but nice.
We only had a couple of minor quibbles. The housekeeping schedule was a bit erratic. The first day, our room was not made up until almost 5pm. Three out of five days, we returned to the room in the afternoon only to find the housekeeping sign on the door—-a bit inconvenient, but we’ll live with it, as they’re very thorough. Oh, and there’s no ATM on site. The closest one is at a 7-11 down on Charoennakom Road.
I'm spoiled for life, I’m afraid. Now, to win the lottery...
http://www.peninsula.com/Bangkok/en/default.aspx
Nov 25th, 2008, 03:47 PM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Getting around</b>
After reading about the various options, we decided on an AOT limo for our ride in from the airport. Since it was midnight when we cleared customs and we were in a bit of a fog from 26 hours of travel, we wanted just a bit more assurance in getting to our destination without difficulty. If we were repeat visitors, we likely would have hopped in a taxi. We had no problem finding an AOT desk in the arrivals area—-there are several of them. We paid 1,150 baht (IIRC) for transport in an SUV, with a driver who wasn’t afraid to step on it!
We found Bangkok very easy to get around using the various types of public transportation, including the express boats on the Chao Praya (we quickly learned to recognize the more expensive “tourist” boats and to look for the smaller, less expensive boats) and the khlong taxis. The latter look a little funny at first with helmeted attendants in black uniforms crouching on the sides, and they require a bit of dexterity to get in and out—but they were convenient for certain destinations. And, a special call-out to the BTS Skytrain, and especially to the great air conditioning (what a relief after a few hours at the Chatuchak market). Very easy to use. We weren’t sure how often we’d ride the Skytrain, so we just bought one-day tickets on the days we decided to use it (100 baht from the concierge at the Pen, which I believe is actually less than buying them at the BTS station; validate the card at the station).
For walking, a good map helps, as well as good shoes as the sidewalks are rather uneven.
We took a taxi back to the airport for well less than half the cost of the AOT limo.
After reading about the various options, we decided on an AOT limo for our ride in from the airport. Since it was midnight when we cleared customs and we were in a bit of a fog from 26 hours of travel, we wanted just a bit more assurance in getting to our destination without difficulty. If we were repeat visitors, we likely would have hopped in a taxi. We had no problem finding an AOT desk in the arrivals area—-there are several of them. We paid 1,150 baht (IIRC) for transport in an SUV, with a driver who wasn’t afraid to step on it!
We found Bangkok very easy to get around using the various types of public transportation, including the express boats on the Chao Praya (we quickly learned to recognize the more expensive “tourist” boats and to look for the smaller, less expensive boats) and the khlong taxis. The latter look a little funny at first with helmeted attendants in black uniforms crouching on the sides, and they require a bit of dexterity to get in and out—but they were convenient for certain destinations. And, a special call-out to the BTS Skytrain, and especially to the great air conditioning (what a relief after a few hours at the Chatuchak market). Very easy to use. We weren’t sure how often we’d ride the Skytrain, so we just bought one-day tickets on the days we decided to use it (100 baht from the concierge at the Pen, which I believe is actually less than buying them at the BTS station; validate the card at the station).
For walking, a good map helps, as well as good shoes as the sidewalks are rather uneven.
We took a taxi back to the airport for well less than half the cost of the AOT limo.
Nov 25th, 2008, 04:14 PM
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Okay, Fodor's bombed on me while posting, so apologies if this post is repeated. It's showing up in my navigation on the left, but not in the live forum??
<b>General impressions</b>
Bangkok is everything you think it is...and the complete opposite, simultaneously. It is noisy and crowded, yet serene and spiritual. It is old and traditional, and very sleek and modern. It is incredibly poor and impossibly wealthy. Expensive, and dirt cheap. Well-managed chaos. Easy to navigate, and even easier to get lost.
And it’s absolutely teeming with people. Tons of them, everywhere. And almost all of them are very nice, pleasant and accommodating. We loved it, and would go back in a heartbeat...perhaps next time in a t-shirt that says, in Thai, “No, I don’t want a tuk-tuk!” Just kidding. Sort of.
<b>Weather</b>
We’d heard that early November is a transitional period, and that certainly seemed to be the case. The first couple of days were warm and muggy, with intermittent showers in the afternoon. After that, we never saw a drop of rain. By the time we left (12th), it was very pleasant. In fact, as we sat by the pool on the last afternoon, we noted how comfortable it had become.
<b>General impressions</b>
Bangkok is everything you think it is...and the complete opposite, simultaneously. It is noisy and crowded, yet serene and spiritual. It is old and traditional, and very sleek and modern. It is incredibly poor and impossibly wealthy. Expensive, and dirt cheap. Well-managed chaos. Easy to navigate, and even easier to get lost.
And it’s absolutely teeming with people. Tons of them, everywhere. And almost all of them are very nice, pleasant and accommodating. We loved it, and would go back in a heartbeat...perhaps next time in a t-shirt that says, in Thai, “No, I don’t want a tuk-tuk!” Just kidding. Sort of.
<b>Weather</b>
We’d heard that early November is a transitional period, and that certainly seemed to be the case. The first couple of days were warm and muggy, with intermittent showers in the afternoon. After that, we never saw a drop of rain. By the time we left (12th), it was very pleasant. In fact, as we sat by the pool on the last afternoon, we noted how comfortable it had become.
Nov 25th, 2008, 04:17 PM
#5
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 612
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
... yo, ms. go ... truly classic 'turnaround' post, bringing back fine memories of a two-day 'layover' at the Bangkok Peninsula, late '99. (Something to do with maintaining the 1K status with good ol' UA ... pre-SQ-forever wife to be sure) ...
... (and speaking of pre mrs. ... must give forever props to my all-time favourite Bangkok 'booker', Khun 'A', and her lovely, discreet women ... (and yes, the highly discreet doormen and security guards at the Peninsula ... thank you, gentlemen ... and look forward to seeing you again next month ... (with the mrs., of course) ...
... thanks again ms. go ... do hope you return soon ... to the Land of Smiles ...
macintosh (robert)
... "Khun Robert! Welcome back to Bangkok! What's your room number?!" ...
...
Nov 25th, 2008, 04:29 PM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Sightseeing</b>
As first timers in the city, we felt compelled to spend most of our time experiencing some of the city’s (and surrounding area’s) major sites. We didn’t exactly get off the beaten path, but that wasn’t really our intention. Our first two days were on our own, followed by two days with Tong, followed by a final day to ourselves.
During the three days on our own, we visited the following. And, by the way, this isn’t chronological.
<b>Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew.</b> This was our first stop on our first full day. We walked straight there from the pier and, just as everyone had told us, someone approached us within a minute or two to tell us it was closed for the day and he would take us to a better place to see. This is an extremely well-known scam, and as predictable as a weather forecast of “muggy” in this area. We just ignored the guy, politely. We spent considerable time walking through and wandering around the many colorful, ornately decorated buildings, temples, shrines and chedi of this complex, including the incredible Temple of the Emerald Buddha…the holiest site in all of Thailand.
Frankly, words fail to do justice. Not even our photos are sufficient to capture the splendor--completely unlike anything we’ve seen before. We finished our visit by watching the changing of the guard at the Grand Palace. Our visit was shortly before the Princess’s funeral, and it appeared some formalities were still in place on the grounds; some areas were blocked off and there were many visitors dressed in black.
<b>Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha).</b> This complex just to the south, was much less crowded, but still very impressive...particularly the jaw droppingly massive Reclining Buddha, clad in gold. To call this immense horizontal statue merely “large” or “impressive” is to do violence to the language. It is truly awe-inspiring. We then wandered throughout the entire grounds, admiring many other ornate and colorful buildings and declining the opportunity to get foot massages—-although later in the trip, one might have been welcome.
<b>Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn).</b> We wandered around and climbed up this venerable old monument, mr_go reaching higher than I did because...well, I don’t do heights well, especially going down steep steps. And it was extremely steep, especially the upper part! From a distance, Wat Arun’s famous chedi looks dull grey, but up close it is an amazing amalgamation of colors, all studded with multicolored ceramic tiles and ornamental decorations (plus a few plants growing out of it!). It’s very old but in amazingly good shape. We declined to pay the extra fee to see rest of complex, as skies looked threatening, so we decided to catch ferry across river before the rain started. Of course, it started to rain the moment we stepped on the boat!
As first timers in the city, we felt compelled to spend most of our time experiencing some of the city’s (and surrounding area’s) major sites. We didn’t exactly get off the beaten path, but that wasn’t really our intention. Our first two days were on our own, followed by two days with Tong, followed by a final day to ourselves.
During the three days on our own, we visited the following. And, by the way, this isn’t chronological.
<b>Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew.</b> This was our first stop on our first full day. We walked straight there from the pier and, just as everyone had told us, someone approached us within a minute or two to tell us it was closed for the day and he would take us to a better place to see. This is an extremely well-known scam, and as predictable as a weather forecast of “muggy” in this area. We just ignored the guy, politely. We spent considerable time walking through and wandering around the many colorful, ornately decorated buildings, temples, shrines and chedi of this complex, including the incredible Temple of the Emerald Buddha…the holiest site in all of Thailand.
Frankly, words fail to do justice. Not even our photos are sufficient to capture the splendor--completely unlike anything we’ve seen before. We finished our visit by watching the changing of the guard at the Grand Palace. Our visit was shortly before the Princess’s funeral, and it appeared some formalities were still in place on the grounds; some areas were blocked off and there were many visitors dressed in black.
<b>Wat Pho (Temple of the Reclining Buddha).</b> This complex just to the south, was much less crowded, but still very impressive...particularly the jaw droppingly massive Reclining Buddha, clad in gold. To call this immense horizontal statue merely “large” or “impressive” is to do violence to the language. It is truly awe-inspiring. We then wandered throughout the entire grounds, admiring many other ornate and colorful buildings and declining the opportunity to get foot massages—-although later in the trip, one might have been welcome.
<b>Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn).</b> We wandered around and climbed up this venerable old monument, mr_go reaching higher than I did because...well, I don’t do heights well, especially going down steep steps. And it was extremely steep, especially the upper part! From a distance, Wat Arun’s famous chedi looks dull grey, but up close it is an amazing amalgamation of colors, all studded with multicolored ceramic tiles and ornamental decorations (plus a few plants growing out of it!). It’s very old but in amazingly good shape. We declined to pay the extra fee to see rest of complex, as skies looked threatening, so we decided to catch ferry across river before the rain started. Of course, it started to rain the moment we stepped on the boat!
Nov 25th, 2008, 04:38 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Wat Saket (The Golden Mount).</b> We were aware that this is the setting of a large festival during the days leading up to Loy Krathong. Disembarking from the khlong taxi, we walked straight into the thick of the festival. Tons of people everywhere, crowded around food stalls, clothing vendors, toy mongers, small carnival rides, religious amulet merchants, etc. It was a crazy cacophony of sound and vision.
We found our way to the entrance to the Wat, and climbed most of the way to the top. Along the way up, we saw large, metal bowls for giving alms with clanging bells above them. Many people made the traditional procession up the winding path, dropping a coin in each bowl, then ringing the bells. There is a fairly nice view of the city from up top, but we didn’t stay long. Coming back down, we got ourselves turned around and had a hard time finding our way back to the khlong water taxi stop (thanks to the nice Austrian couple who helped us find our way!).
<b>Jim Thompson House.</b> It is a fascinating place, and a real change of pace from the city around it. The house (actually a collection of several traditional Thai houses that had been moved to this site and arranged to form the estate) is filled with great art and artifacts and provide an interesting look at what life was like here in the mid-20th century. The story of American ex-pat Jim Thompson and his mysterious disappearance is a very interesting one, and might make for a good movie. Our tour guide pointed out what she believes to be the resemblance to Bruce Willis, so we nominate him for the role. After the tour, we shopped in the store--dropping most of what we would spend on souvenirs for the entire trip. Upon our departure from Bangkok, the United Airlines agent noticed the Jim Thompson bag sticking out of my carry-on and politely informed me that there was a another store in the terminal if we were interested.
<b>Chatuchak weekend market.</b> We debated about doing this, given our limited time in the city, but in the end were glad to have had the experience. The weekend market is an absolute riot of sights, sounds, smells and sensations—-a chaos of commerce. Thousands of stalls stand cheek-to-jowl, selling everything you can imagine...and some things you can’t. Say, you want a live baby squirrel or two? Food stalls are next to puppies are next to fine silks are next to wood carvings are next to pre-worn shoes are next to home electronics gear next to teak furniture next to $2 t-shirts and hats. We spent close to two hours there, long enough to soak up the flavor and buy just a few inexpensive gift items for family and friends. Forty-five minutes door to door from the Peninsula.
<b>Khlong tour.</b> We had the Peninsula arrange a khlong tour on a long-tail boat, starting at the Pen Pier and ending at Wat Arun. The water was very high in the canals and quite choppy, due to recent rains upcountry, so we couldn’t go into the narrower khlongs off the main ones. But it was very interesting to see how people live off the canals every day, both rich and poor. We saw everything from kids swimming in the river (yuck!) to the backside of a giant golden Buddha at a temple along the banks.
<b>Wandering.</b> Here and there, we did a bit of what we really like to do on our trips: wandering--getting a glimpse of the many contrasting areas of the city. Banglampoo and Khaosan Road. Chinatown. Just a little bit of Sukhumvit and its sois (8-11ish), but not enough to really get a good feel for that part of the city.
One particularly interesting walk came one afternoon while we were waiting for our room to be made up. We ventured into the area just outside of our hotel (in a light rain) and ended up walking through a narrow alleyway near the hotel. What we found was a typically dense urban street scene with a throng of uniformed school kids heading in the opposite direction. What a different experience to be immersed in, just yards away from one of the world’s top hotels!
We found our way to the entrance to the Wat, and climbed most of the way to the top. Along the way up, we saw large, metal bowls for giving alms with clanging bells above them. Many people made the traditional procession up the winding path, dropping a coin in each bowl, then ringing the bells. There is a fairly nice view of the city from up top, but we didn’t stay long. Coming back down, we got ourselves turned around and had a hard time finding our way back to the khlong water taxi stop (thanks to the nice Austrian couple who helped us find our way!).
<b>Jim Thompson House.</b> It is a fascinating place, and a real change of pace from the city around it. The house (actually a collection of several traditional Thai houses that had been moved to this site and arranged to form the estate) is filled with great art and artifacts and provide an interesting look at what life was like here in the mid-20th century. The story of American ex-pat Jim Thompson and his mysterious disappearance is a very interesting one, and might make for a good movie. Our tour guide pointed out what she believes to be the resemblance to Bruce Willis, so we nominate him for the role. After the tour, we shopped in the store--dropping most of what we would spend on souvenirs for the entire trip. Upon our departure from Bangkok, the United Airlines agent noticed the Jim Thompson bag sticking out of my carry-on and politely informed me that there was a another store in the terminal if we were interested.
<b>Chatuchak weekend market.</b> We debated about doing this, given our limited time in the city, but in the end were glad to have had the experience. The weekend market is an absolute riot of sights, sounds, smells and sensations—-a chaos of commerce. Thousands of stalls stand cheek-to-jowl, selling everything you can imagine...and some things you can’t. Say, you want a live baby squirrel or two? Food stalls are next to puppies are next to fine silks are next to wood carvings are next to pre-worn shoes are next to home electronics gear next to teak furniture next to $2 t-shirts and hats. We spent close to two hours there, long enough to soak up the flavor and buy just a few inexpensive gift items for family and friends. Forty-five minutes door to door from the Peninsula.
<b>Khlong tour.</b> We had the Peninsula arrange a khlong tour on a long-tail boat, starting at the Pen Pier and ending at Wat Arun. The water was very high in the canals and quite choppy, due to recent rains upcountry, so we couldn’t go into the narrower khlongs off the main ones. But it was very interesting to see how people live off the canals every day, both rich and poor. We saw everything from kids swimming in the river (yuck!) to the backside of a giant golden Buddha at a temple along the banks.
<b>Wandering.</b> Here and there, we did a bit of what we really like to do on our trips: wandering--getting a glimpse of the many contrasting areas of the city. Banglampoo and Khaosan Road. Chinatown. Just a little bit of Sukhumvit and its sois (8-11ish), but not enough to really get a good feel for that part of the city.
One particularly interesting walk came one afternoon while we were waiting for our room to be made up. We ventured into the area just outside of our hotel (in a light rain) and ended up walking through a narrow alleyway near the hotel. What we found was a typically dense urban street scene with a throng of uniformed school kids heading in the opposite direction. What a different experience to be immersed in, just yards away from one of the world’s top hotels!
Nov 25th, 2008, 04:45 PM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, Robert. We will most definitely be back. Maybe I'll make it part of my 1K strategy next year; alas, I fell just a bit short this year (I tried; I really wanted the SWUs). I'll have to save my $$, though, if I want to stay at the Peninsula again.
I think this will be all for this evening. We'll try to finish up tomorrow if we can.
Next up will be our two days with Tong.
In the meantime, our photos (still a work in progress) are here:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p8594150
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p594742737
I think this will be all for this evening. We'll try to finish up tomorrow if we can.
Next up will be our two days with Tong.
In the meantime, our photos (still a work in progress) are here:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p8594150
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p594742737
Nov 25th, 2008, 05:05 PM
#9
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ms_go-
Great report! I love your organizational style.
And who knew you could ask for a coffee maker at the Pen? Good to know for future reference, though we do love their breakfast buffet.
Looking forward to hearing about your days with Tong. We will have another day with her next year and I am contemplating the fishing village.
Great report! I love your organizational style.
And who knew you could ask for a coffee maker at the Pen? Good to know for future reference, though we do love their breakfast buffet.
Looking forward to hearing about your days with Tong. We will have another day with her next year and I am contemplating the fishing village.
Nov 25th, 2008, 05:07 PM
#10
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ms_go - great report so far - haven't had a chance to look at the photos but I do have a couple of questions (funny how after going to Bangkok all these years, seeing it through a different pair of eyes):
1. Penn cocktail cruise - what was the timing? Sounds like another great way to "do" the Chao Phraya - were you at Wat Arun at sunset?
2. One of my biggest beefs with the Penn is that I have to order room service coffee first thing in the AM or make my own with my travel coffee maker (which I then have to clean). No charge for that coffee maker and coffee that the Penn supplied?
1. Penn cocktail cruise - what was the timing? Sounds like another great way to "do" the Chao Phraya - were you at Wat Arun at sunset?
2. One of my biggest beefs with the Penn is that I have to order room service coffee first thing in the AM or make my own with my travel coffee maker (which I then have to clean). No charge for that coffee maker and coffee that the Penn supplied?
Nov 25th, 2008, 05:17 PM
#11
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Kristina and Craig.
Kristina, I will try to get to the two days with Tong tomorrow, but we <b>really</b> enjoyed the day at the fishing village.
Craig, the cocktail cruise was timed to coincide with sunset; I believe it left right around 5:30 and lasted about an hour. The cruise went by Wat Arun, but our visit there was separate and during the day. There was no charge for the coffee maker and coffee.
Kristina, I will try to get to the two days with Tong tomorrow, but we <b>really</b> enjoyed the day at the fishing village.
Craig, the cocktail cruise was timed to coincide with sunset; I believe it left right around 5:30 and lasted about an hour. The cruise went by Wat Arun, but our visit there was separate and during the day. There was no charge for the coffee maker and coffee.
Nov 26th, 2008, 03:53 AM
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Kathie, Bob, June and dogster.
We've written a bit more detail for the two days with Tong because, well, they deserve it!
<b>Touring with Tong!</b>
<b>Day 1: Floating Market and Kanchanaburi</b>
On our third day, we met Tong in the lobby at the stroke of 7am. Mr_go hadn't slept at all the night before (or so he believed), so we were starting with a bit of a deficit--however, between the coffee maker in our room and Tong's infectious energy and enthusiasm, he (and we) gathered enough momentum to keep going through what was a very long--13 hours, plus--day.
Our first stop was just down the street, where we purchased breakfast for and presented it to a monk (part of what's known as "making merit"
.
From there, we drove about an hour to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, with one very important stop before (well, actually two, as we stopped at the Benjarong factory for a brief look and use of the nice "happy room": in the town of Maeklong for some coconut "puffs," prepared by a street vendor. Who knew that a simple blend of coconut, sugar, rice and green onion--hot off the griddle--would be so good? What a treat they were! We asked for a repeat when we went through the area the next day.
We arrived at the floating market and met Tong’s boat man. We soon learned that this was his first day back to work after serving four months as a monk! As we slowly plied the waters, everyone was eager to welcome him back. The market itself is somewhat touristy and crowded, and undoubtedly a shadow of its former self, but the advantages of going with Tong are (1) you’re not in a noisy motorized boat, (2) you can easily visit canals less traveled, (3) she knows where to get the best food, (4) she will steer you away from rip-offs (she discourages shopping there in general).
We had a great late breakfast as we toured the canals--mango and sticky rice, fried bananas covered in coconut, two types of spicy noodles, and some type of coconut brittle candy (and unfortunately I've lost the little notebook I was using for meal notes...so everything food-related will be from memory).
The drive to Kanchanaburi was about 1:45, and at some point we noticed the terrain changing, with more hills and woods. I should mention here that Tong brought along a driver that day; her car was in the hospital. We stopped at the bridge over the River Kwai for photos for some photos and a brief (and informative) history lesson from Tong.
We've, of course, read the varying reports of the Tiger Temple and decided to see for ourselves. When we arrived, the stars of the show were already lounging about the place (chained, thankfully). They were mostly resting, having just been exercised and fed, but some, especially the younger ones, were in a more playful mood than others. After a while, everyone got a turn to walk with and pet one of the larger tigers as he was led down into the specially constructed “tiger canyon."
After a brief and informative talk, we were given the opportunity to take more pictures. We paid an extra fee to get ourselves in a “special photo," which entailed having the monks place the head of a resting tiger in one’s lap while they take pix of your awkward, nervous smile with your own camera. No matter how big and heavy you think a tiger’s head is, trust us…it’s twice that size when it’s in YOUR lap!
When we were finished taking tiger pictures, we walked around the complex with Tong (who really knows her way around). We saw new enclosures being built, then we got to meet and feed Bam Bam the bear, who was extremely happy to see Tong. We all fed this jolly, friendly bear...even passing her dried fruit mouth-to-mouth...before moving on.
Are the tigers drugged? Who knows, but we did not get the impression that they are. They're exercised, fed, and then doing what our cat does at home, regardless of what's going on around her: sleep. Has the facility become too commercial? Probably, but they do seem to be making improvements there that will benefit the animals, and the breeding efforts certainly seem to be successful. Whatever the case, after spending two days with Tong, one thing was very clear to us: she really loves animals. She's at the Tiger Temple multiple times per week and has been for years. We got the distinct impression that she wouldn't do this tour if she thought there was a major issue here.
Anyway, we found it an interesting experience.
Tong called ahead and had a very nice lunch ready for us at a nearby restaurant--spicy soup (two kinds, actually, tom yum and tom kha gai, I think), cashew chicken, beer, ice cream, and there was more...oh where, oh where are my notes.
Afterward, we stopped briefly at a clearing where we fed peanuts to a gang of feral monkeys. Mr_go was less than circumspect in his handling of the peanut bag, and one bold monkey quickly swiped a wide gash in it, spilling all the peanuts and causing a monkey hullaballoo.
Our last animal activity of the day involved riding elephants. In case you’re wondering, this is a lot bumpier than it seems at first, especially when going downhill and into the river. Before we rode them, we got to feed them by hand, up close and personal. It was surreal to stuff whole bunches of bananas at a time into an elephant’s mouth...something everyone should try it at least once in their lifetime!
On our way back to Bangkok, we stopped briefly at a scenic trestle on the Death Railway for some pictures. Tong filled us in on the sad story behind this railroad, and the many souls who perished in its construction.
It was a rather long drive back to Bangkok with a stretch of bad traffic and a detour off the highway at one point. We were both hovering near sleep when we arrived back at hotel around 8pm. We happily showered away the day’s accumulation of dust, sweat and elephant/bear/tiger saliva, then enjoyed a nice, cool drink at Peninsula's riverside bar.
We've written a bit more detail for the two days with Tong because, well, they deserve it!
<b>Touring with Tong!</b>
<b>Day 1: Floating Market and Kanchanaburi</b>
On our third day, we met Tong in the lobby at the stroke of 7am. Mr_go hadn't slept at all the night before (or so he believed), so we were starting with a bit of a deficit--however, between the coffee maker in our room and Tong's infectious energy and enthusiasm, he (and we) gathered enough momentum to keep going through what was a very long--13 hours, plus--day.
Our first stop was just down the street, where we purchased breakfast for and presented it to a monk (part of what's known as "making merit"
. From there, we drove about an hour to the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, with one very important stop before (well, actually two, as we stopped at the Benjarong factory for a brief look and use of the nice "happy room"
: in the town of Maeklong for some coconut "puffs," prepared by a street vendor. Who knew that a simple blend of coconut, sugar, rice and green onion--hot off the griddle--would be so good? What a treat they were! We asked for a repeat when we went through the area the next day.We arrived at the floating market and met Tong’s boat man. We soon learned that this was his first day back to work after serving four months as a monk! As we slowly plied the waters, everyone was eager to welcome him back. The market itself is somewhat touristy and crowded, and undoubtedly a shadow of its former self, but the advantages of going with Tong are (1) you’re not in a noisy motorized boat, (2) you can easily visit canals less traveled, (3) she knows where to get the best food, (4) she will steer you away from rip-offs (she discourages shopping there in general).
We had a great late breakfast as we toured the canals--mango and sticky rice, fried bananas covered in coconut, two types of spicy noodles, and some type of coconut brittle candy (and unfortunately I've lost the little notebook I was using for meal notes...so everything food-related will be from memory).
The drive to Kanchanaburi was about 1:45, and at some point we noticed the terrain changing, with more hills and woods. I should mention here that Tong brought along a driver that day; her car was in the hospital. We stopped at the bridge over the River Kwai for photos for some photos and a brief (and informative) history lesson from Tong.
We've, of course, read the varying reports of the Tiger Temple and decided to see for ourselves. When we arrived, the stars of the show were already lounging about the place (chained, thankfully). They were mostly resting, having just been exercised and fed, but some, especially the younger ones, were in a more playful mood than others. After a while, everyone got a turn to walk with and pet one of the larger tigers as he was led down into the specially constructed “tiger canyon."
After a brief and informative talk, we were given the opportunity to take more pictures. We paid an extra fee to get ourselves in a “special photo," which entailed having the monks place the head of a resting tiger in one’s lap while they take pix of your awkward, nervous smile with your own camera. No matter how big and heavy you think a tiger’s head is, trust us…it’s twice that size when it’s in YOUR lap!
When we were finished taking tiger pictures, we walked around the complex with Tong (who really knows her way around). We saw new enclosures being built, then we got to meet and feed Bam Bam the bear, who was extremely happy to see Tong. We all fed this jolly, friendly bear...even passing her dried fruit mouth-to-mouth...before moving on.
Are the tigers drugged? Who knows, but we did not get the impression that they are. They're exercised, fed, and then doing what our cat does at home, regardless of what's going on around her: sleep. Has the facility become too commercial? Probably, but they do seem to be making improvements there that will benefit the animals, and the breeding efforts certainly seem to be successful. Whatever the case, after spending two days with Tong, one thing was very clear to us: she really loves animals. She's at the Tiger Temple multiple times per week and has been for years. We got the distinct impression that she wouldn't do this tour if she thought there was a major issue here.
Anyway, we found it an interesting experience.
Tong called ahead and had a very nice lunch ready for us at a nearby restaurant--spicy soup (two kinds, actually, tom yum and tom kha gai, I think), cashew chicken, beer, ice cream, and there was more...oh where, oh where are my notes.
Afterward, we stopped briefly at a clearing where we fed peanuts to a gang of feral monkeys. Mr_go was less than circumspect in his handling of the peanut bag, and one bold monkey quickly swiped a wide gash in it, spilling all the peanuts and causing a monkey hullaballoo.
Our last animal activity of the day involved riding elephants. In case you’re wondering, this is a lot bumpier than it seems at first, especially when going downhill and into the river. Before we rode them, we got to feed them by hand, up close and personal. It was surreal to stuff whole bunches of bananas at a time into an elephant’s mouth...something everyone should try it at least once in their lifetime!
On our way back to Bangkok, we stopped briefly at a scenic trestle on the Death Railway for some pictures. Tong filled us in on the sad story behind this railroad, and the many souls who perished in its construction.
It was a rather long drive back to Bangkok with a stretch of bad traffic and a detour off the highway at one point. We were both hovering near sleep when we arrived back at hotel around 8pm. We happily showered away the day’s accumulation of dust, sweat and elephant/bear/tiger saliva, then enjoyed a nice, cool drink at Peninsula's riverside bar.
Nov 26th, 2008, 04:03 AM
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Day 2: Maeklong Railway Market and the Fishing Village</b>
We, again, met Tong at 7am. She was driving today (having borrowed her husband’s car), and we wasted no time in hitting the road. Again, we stopped for those incredibly delicious coconut puffs, then returned to the Maeklong Railway Market in time to see everyone pick up their wares and scatter as the train approached.
Next, we picked up some monkey food...huge, heaping bags of bananas, watermelons and baby mangos. Fully loaded, we drove onward to the fishing village. There, we met Reed, the fisherman, and his family and boarded a boat with our massive haul of fruit. We headed out and saw a few cockle farmers and oyster traps, and some houses/huts on stilts across the river delta, but progress was very slow due to the wind, choppy waves, and high tide. Tong explained that they have to be careful timing this trip along with other activities, as it is more difficult at high tide.
We headed into the thick of a dense mangrove swamp, and when the boat finally came to a rest, both Tong and Reed began to bellow out loud, shouting monkey calls. This lasted for a few minutes, until the first of the monkeys began to arrive. A few were bold enough to swim out to meet the boat, but most stayed on the river banks, screaming for food.
Mr_go, Tong and Reed started throwing chunks of fresh fruit to this gathering chorus of primates, who were all too happy to snatch them up and consume them with blinding speed. The more we threw, the more they wanted. Everyone got in on the act...youngsters, oldsters, male and female, even mommy-monkeys with little babies clinging to them. I did a little feeding, but mostly played photographer (mashed banana and watermelon on the camera isn't such a good thing). The monkeys were so much fun, they get their own album:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p594742737
We visited a few more spots along the river within the mangrove forest, feeding different troops of monkeys. While we were feeding one troop, one of the others we had fed previously followed our boat to the new site to get some more, sparking a confrontation. The alpha males squared off to fight, and several others joined in before it was over. A mass of spectators formed around the combatants, shouting and jeering and creating a great deal of sound and fury.
These menacing monkeys had a bounty of fresh fruit, free for the taking, just a few yards away. And all they wanted to do was fight over what they thought was "theirs." The smarter monkeys stayed out of the fray, and gratefully accepted the gift of food that we were so happy to give. They ate well that day.
There’s a lesson there.
We returned to one of the houses on stilts, and there was a fabulous feast of fresh food waiting when we arrived. We gorged ourselves on seafood: fresh crab and prawns, catfish covered in shrimp paste and deep fried (sounds weird, but it was quite good), spicy fish with loads of ginger and cilantro, and a spicy soup with tamarind and catfish. We ate it all. After our feast, we took some time to rest on cots and take a few pictures; it is a serenely beautiful place to relax. We’ve rarely felt so far removed from our home, and yet so completely “at home” at the same time.
After our rest, we returned to the village and then started the hour-long car ride back to Bangkok, where we said our goodbyes. By the way, this was a shorter day than the one before; because we needed to be at the fishing village early due to the tides, we were back in Bangkok by 2:30pm.
We really enjoyed our two days with Tong--we learned a lot and felt like we had some really out-of-the ordinary experiences. We also enjoyed just talking with her and learning about her family (she's had a rough time of it lately) and her work. How does she ever keep up the pace that she does?
We, again, met Tong at 7am. She was driving today (having borrowed her husband’s car), and we wasted no time in hitting the road. Again, we stopped for those incredibly delicious coconut puffs, then returned to the Maeklong Railway Market in time to see everyone pick up their wares and scatter as the train approached.
Next, we picked up some monkey food...huge, heaping bags of bananas, watermelons and baby mangos. Fully loaded, we drove onward to the fishing village. There, we met Reed, the fisherman, and his family and boarded a boat with our massive haul of fruit. We headed out and saw a few cockle farmers and oyster traps, and some houses/huts on stilts across the river delta, but progress was very slow due to the wind, choppy waves, and high tide. Tong explained that they have to be careful timing this trip along with other activities, as it is more difficult at high tide.
We headed into the thick of a dense mangrove swamp, and when the boat finally came to a rest, both Tong and Reed began to bellow out loud, shouting monkey calls. This lasted for a few minutes, until the first of the monkeys began to arrive. A few were bold enough to swim out to meet the boat, but most stayed on the river banks, screaming for food.
Mr_go, Tong and Reed started throwing chunks of fresh fruit to this gathering chorus of primates, who were all too happy to snatch them up and consume them with blinding speed. The more we threw, the more they wanted. Everyone got in on the act...youngsters, oldsters, male and female, even mommy-monkeys with little babies clinging to them. I did a little feeding, but mostly played photographer (mashed banana and watermelon on the camera isn't such a good thing). The monkeys were so much fun, they get their own album:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p594742737
We visited a few more spots along the river within the mangrove forest, feeding different troops of monkeys. While we were feeding one troop, one of the others we had fed previously followed our boat to the new site to get some more, sparking a confrontation. The alpha males squared off to fight, and several others joined in before it was over. A mass of spectators formed around the combatants, shouting and jeering and creating a great deal of sound and fury.
These menacing monkeys had a bounty of fresh fruit, free for the taking, just a few yards away. And all they wanted to do was fight over what they thought was "theirs." The smarter monkeys stayed out of the fray, and gratefully accepted the gift of food that we were so happy to give. They ate well that day.
There’s a lesson there.
We returned to one of the houses on stilts, and there was a fabulous feast of fresh food waiting when we arrived. We gorged ourselves on seafood: fresh crab and prawns, catfish covered in shrimp paste and deep fried (sounds weird, but it was quite good), spicy fish with loads of ginger and cilantro, and a spicy soup with tamarind and catfish. We ate it all. After our feast, we took some time to rest on cots and take a few pictures; it is a serenely beautiful place to relax. We’ve rarely felt so far removed from our home, and yet so completely “at home” at the same time.
After our rest, we returned to the village and then started the hour-long car ride back to Bangkok, where we said our goodbyes. By the way, this was a shorter day than the one before; because we needed to be at the fishing village early due to the tides, we were back in Bangkok by 2:30pm.
We really enjoyed our two days with Tong--we learned a lot and felt like we had some really out-of-the ordinary experiences. We also enjoyed just talking with her and learning about her family (she's had a rough time of it lately) and her work. How does she ever keep up the pace that she does?
Nov 26th, 2008, 05:28 AM
#18
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report! I have to agree that it is interesting to "see" the city of Bangkok from someone else's perspective. I've been 14 times and continue to love the place. (I also enjoy the Pen) I loved your initial description of the chaos yet peacefulness of the city.
Carol
(hello from Kassel Germany)
Carol
(hello from Kassel Germany)
Nov 26th, 2008, 05:44 AM
#19
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you again for the wonderful report. We will be spending a day at the Floating Market and Fishing Village with Tong on Feb 1st and are so looking forward to it, especially after reading your report.
Nov 26th, 2008, 06:17 AM
#20
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Eating</b>
As noted above, we are not really foodies, but we do usually put at least a little planning into our meals. We also particularly like Thai food--or what poses for Thai food in the Chicago area, anyway. We made note of many of your recommendations before leaving (and, in fact, printed and took along Bob's restaurant list). Unfortunately, we didn't get to try as many as we would have liked, but there's always next time.
I did take some notes and, as luck would have it, I just found them after posting the previous parts of the report.
<b>Coconut Palm.</b> We found this with relative ease, down the street from Wat Pho, and enjoyed a delicious first meal in Thailand (lunch) of green curry chicken, curry fried rice with pork, spring rolls, beer, and Coke for only 300B (about $9!). The air conditioning was a priceless bonus. As far as we could tell, we were the only tourists there for most of meal.
<b>Tongue Thai.</b> This was for dinner, and after the Pen cocktail cruise, so we weren't terribly hungry. Nevertheless, we quite enjoyed the spicy banana flower salad; chicken with cashews, apples and onions; sauteed scallops with garlic and black pepper; and steamed rice; two beers and water—all for 850B (about $25). Very tasty, but not a very busy place that night; only three other tables were occupied while we dined.
<b>Harmonique.</b> We met FromDC and her husband for drinks in the Bamboo Bar at the Oriental, then the four of us had dinner here--and we thoroughly enjoy our conversation and exchanging stories about our respective travels. Harmonique has nice ambience and local character, and the food was pretty good. Lots of food--mixed appetizer plate for four (spring roll, fish cakes, chicken, etc.), mango salad, cashew chicken, crab curry, prawns, and some fried morning glories, several rounds of beer—all for 1,850 baht (about $55).
<b>Pizzeria Limoncello</b> on soi 8 off Sukhumvit. After our fishing village day with Tong, we were looking for a late, light dinner, and a little pizza sounded good. We'd set off for Via Vai but found it closed on Monday. This was a refreshing change of pace; quite busy at 9pm. We enjoyed a decent light dinner of caprese salad and a mushroom/artichoke pizza, with beer/wine and limoncello shots as a capper--good, but a little more expensive at 1,500 baht ($45).
<b>Ban Chiang.</b> We'd debated about where to eat on our last night. Tong recommended The Deck, and we had a few recommendations from here in the backs of our minds (Kinnaree, Lemongrass, etc.). In the end, we didn't feel like going too far afield, as we had a very early (6:30am) flight the next morning. So we chose this old Thai house in the middle of the concrete jungle off Silom (to which we could walk from the Pen Pier) and enjoyed both the atmosphere and the food: spicy green papaya salad, shrimp pancake, red curry chicken, beef with basil and vegetables, steamed rice, two beers—total of 880 baht ($25).
<b>Sky Bar.</b> I'll throw this in with the food for convenience sake. We wanted to do this or Vertigo for the views, and finally got around to it on the last night, before dinner at Ban Chiang. Again, we chose this because we could walk there. The views were as advertised. We did not make it up for sunset, but there wasn't a great sunset that night, anyway. It has a lovely open-air setting with a standing section at the bar and another seated section for meals (everyone was in the standing area). We ordered one martini and one glass of wine (at double the price of the dinner we had an hour or so later) and nursed them as long as possible--taking in the view, enjoying the very pleasant temps, and lamenting the fact that we'd be leaving in the morning.
I may be missing something...or maybe not, as we did a lot of eating with Tong (described earlier).
As noted above, we are not really foodies, but we do usually put at least a little planning into our meals. We also particularly like Thai food--or what poses for Thai food in the Chicago area, anyway. We made note of many of your recommendations before leaving (and, in fact, printed and took along Bob's restaurant list). Unfortunately, we didn't get to try as many as we would have liked, but there's always next time.
I did take some notes and, as luck would have it, I just found them after posting the previous parts of the report.
<b>Coconut Palm.</b> We found this with relative ease, down the street from Wat Pho, and enjoyed a delicious first meal in Thailand (lunch) of green curry chicken, curry fried rice with pork, spring rolls, beer, and Coke for only 300B (about $9!). The air conditioning was a priceless bonus. As far as we could tell, we were the only tourists there for most of meal.
<b>Tongue Thai.</b> This was for dinner, and after the Pen cocktail cruise, so we weren't terribly hungry. Nevertheless, we quite enjoyed the spicy banana flower salad; chicken with cashews, apples and onions; sauteed scallops with garlic and black pepper; and steamed rice; two beers and water—all for 850B (about $25). Very tasty, but not a very busy place that night; only three other tables were occupied while we dined.
<b>Harmonique.</b> We met FromDC and her husband for drinks in the Bamboo Bar at the Oriental, then the four of us had dinner here--and we thoroughly enjoy our conversation and exchanging stories about our respective travels. Harmonique has nice ambience and local character, and the food was pretty good. Lots of food--mixed appetizer plate for four (spring roll, fish cakes, chicken, etc.), mango salad, cashew chicken, crab curry, prawns, and some fried morning glories, several rounds of beer—all for 1,850 baht (about $55).
<b>Pizzeria Limoncello</b> on soi 8 off Sukhumvit. After our fishing village day with Tong, we were looking for a late, light dinner, and a little pizza sounded good. We'd set off for Via Vai but found it closed on Monday. This was a refreshing change of pace; quite busy at 9pm. We enjoyed a decent light dinner of caprese salad and a mushroom/artichoke pizza, with beer/wine and limoncello shots as a capper--good, but a little more expensive at 1,500 baht ($45).
<b>Ban Chiang.</b> We'd debated about where to eat on our last night. Tong recommended The Deck, and we had a few recommendations from here in the backs of our minds (Kinnaree, Lemongrass, etc.). In the end, we didn't feel like going too far afield, as we had a very early (6:30am) flight the next morning. So we chose this old Thai house in the middle of the concrete jungle off Silom (to which we could walk from the Pen Pier) and enjoyed both the atmosphere and the food: spicy green papaya salad, shrimp pancake, red curry chicken, beef with basil and vegetables, steamed rice, two beers—total of 880 baht ($25).
<b>Sky Bar.</b> I'll throw this in with the food for convenience sake. We wanted to do this or Vertigo for the views, and finally got around to it on the last night, before dinner at Ban Chiang. Again, we chose this because we could walk there. The views were as advertised. We did not make it up for sunset, but there wasn't a great sunset that night, anyway. It has a lovely open-air setting with a standing section at the bar and another seated section for meals (everyone was in the standing area). We ordered one martini and one glass of wine (at double the price of the dinner we had an hour or so later) and nursed them as long as possible--taking in the view, enjoying the very pleasant temps, and lamenting the fact that we'd be leaving in the morning.
I may be missing something...or maybe not, as we did a lot of eating with Tong (described earlier).
