Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Asia
Reload this Page >

TUK-TUK Travel Tales-It's THAILAND a trip report

Search

TUK-TUK Travel Tales-It's THAILAND a trip report

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 01:02 PM
  #21  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,664
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Love the attention to detail. This is exactly what we fodorites need. We live vicariously and your grabbing our attention.
Gpanda is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 01:18 PM
  #22  
jgg
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,683
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
laartista - I can't believe Robin, the great Moroccan bargainer, got private shopping lessons in Bangkok!! Wow! I can't wait to hear about your finds.

Loving the stories of your travelmates - and as she found out - of course she couldn't stay at the Four Seasons for the same price - ridiculous!!

Based on your comment about the ladyboy sighting - you must read Bangkok 8 by John Burdett if you haven't already.

Looking forward to more!!
jgg is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 01:37 PM
  #23  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
jgg, I was thinking the same thing - yes, do read Bangkok 8.

Loving your report!
Kathie is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 02:34 PM
  #24  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Again Thanks. Gpanda- glad your a fan of the details I have a serious editing problem. LOL. Jgg- we did have some great finds, more on that later, but overall was a bit disappointed in the BKK shopping. Found it better in Koh Samui. Oh, and have not read that book but will do so. Thanks Oh, and Kathie, thank you for answering so many questions before I left. It was much appreciated.

We finally leave the Dynasty and turn in around 3 am. We had a big day tomorrow, wanted to get to the Grand Palace bright and early.

Day 2 BKK

Alarm wakes us at 7 am. We decide to have braekfast downstairs because it's included. Or so we thought. In the breakfast room we see T & H they already ate. It was a nice buffet, omelet station and all. I didn't eat that much, never hungry when I first get up. Imagine our suprise and disappointment when we are hit with a bill for 1550 Baht for breakfast for 2. That's almost 50 bucks, and that sucks. Whatever, shit happens which is pretty much my travel mantra.

On the schedule today was Grand Palace, Wat Po and Jim Thompson house. We figured we had plenty of time, we were starting early, out of the hotel by 8:30. Since we had no bearing what so ever on the city yet we opt for a cab. The doorman at the Sofitel would get us one.

The taxi driver said because of traffic it would be best to drive us to a longboat dock and then take the boat to where the Grand Palace was. We would soon figure out that BKK is a huge network of you scratch my back, I'll scratch yours of bringing each other business. The taxi ride took us thru the streets of Bangkok. Dirty and smelly and still in my opinion fantastic to see. The heat however was oppressive. Like a summers day in Vegas but with 100% humidity. My new haircut which was bad to begin with and the humidity made me look like Bon Jovi circa 1982. That along with the sweat that dripped off me, Well I just felt soooo pretty.

Finally we arrive at the longboat dock over by the Pennisula Hotel.Which BTW was another place T mentioned she could stay for the same price. I'd love to know what website she was using. Anyhoo, Our taxi ride was 140 Baht inc. tip for the 4 of us. That's like 5 bucks. We cross the rickety wooden ramp that covers a few stairs to the dock. We ask how much for the boat to Grand Palace and the guy says 500 Baht. We thought between 4 that's pretty cheap. We say O.K. 500 Baht for 4 and he says NOOOOOOO, EACH. Each? That's like 65 dollars. I thought Bangkok was cheap. That can't be right. We start trying to talk him down and this bugger won't budge.I i'm telling you I have got a master bargainer by my side in Robin. She is an olympic gold medalist in haggling. Still, no movement. He says there is a water taxi a few blocks over, by the Shangri La. So that's where we head.

We walk thru the streets , between the smog, exhaust and the heat so heavy it was hard to breathe. Still I found it all very interesting and was loving every minute of this chaotic city. On every square inch of this city is someone selling something and THAT is my kind of town. It's all a bit overwhelming at first. The excitement building with each stall we passed. Robin and I, both huge shoppers to the point of it being a sickness could hardly contain ourselves. But we did, for the next day was blocked off for shopping and just shopping. So we wait. Finally at the Shangri La boat dock.

15 minutes til water taxi but the guy says 500 Baht for a long boat right now. We had heard this before. 500 each? No, 500 for 4. Woo Hoo, that's what I'm talking about, you got yourself a deal buddy. And into the boat we go.

Shaped like a banana and super low to the water the longboat moves at a pretty good clip down the river. The breeze was perfect, it being so damn hot. Tons of photo ops. The riverbanks flanked by both extravagant hotels and resorts and shanty type structures. We pass speedboats, and barges and junks and water taxi's. The river is hopping. From the boat to the left we can see Wat Arun, it sits impressively looking out over the river. I guess about 15 minutes later we pull up to a dock by the Grand Palace.

When we first get off the boat we walk thru a small terminal if you can call it that flanked with stalls selling anything and everything out to a piazza type square where just beyond sits the Grand Palace complex. It sort of reminded me of Marrakech being walled and all. Plus the smells were reminiscent of Morocco. We cross the street, H and T are ahead of us and as we approach I see them talking to a guy by a guard house. It's about 9:30 am and from what the Fodorites said best to get there first thing because of heat and crowds. T turns around and says it's a holiday, closed until 12:30. I ask is that right? A holiday? What holiday? I was suspicious, I felt like I had read about something like this, but wasn;t sure. I ask the guy do you work here? He said yes, and assures me he was legit, with his Grand palace name badge and all. Plus he was standing with a guard guy. Still, smelled fishy. Especially because there were not 1 but 2 Tuk-Tuk's standing by. Well now this was gonna screw with our whole day.

While debating on what to do which BTW is much harder with 4 rather than 2, the "Grand Palace employee" makes a suggestion. Well of course he does. These 2 Tuk-Tuk's will take you to Golden Mount and marble Palace for the bargain basement price of 40 Baht each cart round trip. Really? Well O.K. sure let's go. So Robin and I hop into one and T and H into the other. We were scammed, Palace was not closed for holiday. We are morons!

More pix- I'm sorting them to go with corresponding installment

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...0mzmh&Ux=1
laartista is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 03:01 PM
  #25  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,902
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report! I know how it is to travel on a buddy pass too and sweat out snagging a biz seat.
moremiles is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 03:28 PM
  #26  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am amused. Welcome to Thailand, land of smiles and, to the uninitiated - scams.
Craig is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 04:09 PM
  #27  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I can totally understand the whole group-think process by the way - sometimes more is not merrier. Looking forward to hearing about more of your escapades.
Craig is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 04:24 PM
  #28  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Craig- LOL I think we were initiated more than once on this trip.

Into our 2 Tuk-Tuk's we go. I was happy I have health insurance no matter how crappy it may be because these guys, no holds bar, whip in and out of traffic. I had thought all the police and Tuk drivers wear those surgical masks because of SARS but it's because of all the exhaust. I highly doubt there is emissions testing in Thalaind least of all Bangkok. At each stop light we would get a big blast of exhaust, unpleasant.

We arrive at our first stop the Golden Mount. I actually wasn't too unhappy because it was totally off my radar and othewrwise would have never gone. Our Tuk driver leads us to the entrance and says they will wait.

A cliff notes, somewhat plagurized history on Wat Saket and the Golden Mount. Atop an artificial hill, the original hill collapsed, is a golden tower. Said to be one of the oldest temples in Bangkok. Also until the 60's one of the highest points in Bangkok. Temple is said to house relics of Budda given to Rama V by India. During the 19th century the grounds of the mount served as a crematorium, which is kind of creepy, nowadays every November a festival is held there. History lesson over.

Circular stone stairways flanked by statues and gardens lead up to the temple. At one of the landings are a row of gigantic bells. The gardens are lush and the statues interesting and I found it all very beautiful. And hot, it was so very hot. Wear loose clothing ladies. Seriously, the looser the better, and the more cotton the better. We climbed the stairs snapping pictures along the way. Seems my pictures will have to suffice for now because the girls have been slow to send theirs.

Anyway, when we reach the top there is a small temple with a golden budda. Following tradition everone takes off their shoes. The temple is circular and another stairway leads to a viewing platform with really great views of the city below. We take the stairway back down and tool around the gardens for a bit before running into our driver. Next stop on the "Palace is closed so take a Tuk-Tuk scam tour is Marble Temple.

A short ride takes us to the Marble Temple. It was on this ride I said to Robin, I think we been scammed. Palace isn't closed. I think I read about this. She asked why I didn't say something. I said I wasn't sure and the other 2 seemed sure and I didn't want to step on toes. We laughed at the fact we fell for the it's closed bit and decided to make the best of it. Only thing was by the time we would actually get to the Palace it would be 12:30- 1:00 in the high heat of the day and crowded. Sorry side tracked.

So hear we are at the Marble Temple. As we walk in there are a bunch of monks and non monks sitting on the floor in a covered walkway having lunch. Also first thing I notice are the piles of gorgeous, terra cotta glazed shingles stacked on a roof awaiting to be layed in place. As a mosaic artist by trade I love all things glass and ceramic.

History Lesson #2 Marble temple aka Wat Benchamabophit , and that's a mouthful! Last major temple to be built in Bangkok,influenced by European architecture . Nickname Marble Temple from Carrarra marble that covers the walls. We probably spent 1/2 hour here just admiring the buildings. The details, the mosaics, the murals, really impressive. I also watched the floor mason lay some tile. I like stuff like that. Once in the Cinque Terra I actually helped a guy with a mosaic after passing by.LOL

So we leave the Marble Temple and it's about 11;45 , still 45 minutes til the palace is "OPEN". And here it comes, THE CATCH. We will take you quickly to see the best tailor in Bangkok our driver announces. I just lost it laughing so hard. There it is. Robin says NO, thanks but NO, back to palace please. I kept telling her to smile because they smile alot here AND I had heard the Thais respond better to politeness and smiley faces. Oh o.k. she says and thru her smile of gritting teeth she says again, No, thank you. Our driver seemed to get agitated and called T and H's guy over. The other girls just watched from their Tuk. The drivers were trying to explain that if they don't take us to the tailor they will not get a gas voucher. Seems they get these gas vouchers for bringing the tourists by, the whole scratching each others back thing again. Well now we felt bad. We are not so ignorant that we didn't know the average income in Thailand is like 100 US a month. These guys probably depend on these vouchers. So, O.K. take us to the tailor. T wasn't too happy about that call, but then again we didn't confer, we made the call. Off to the tailor, BEST 1 IN BANGKOK!!!

We pile out into the tailor, some British guy was having a suit fitted. I was so suspicious by now I was sure he was a shill. As for me, a working artist, I don't even own a suit and have no need for one, or a gown for that matter so I was disinterested. T and h literally walked in and right back out but Robin and I didn't want to seem rude so we looked around felt some fabrics and then left. Asked our guy if he got his gas voucher, he did, great let's get to the palace. Not quite yet.

it seems we must also visit a jeweler, BEST 1 IN BANGKOK! We were too hot to argue, fine take us to the jeweler. Great thing was Jewelry shop was air-conditioned AND had a bathroom. Score. We each made a ladies room run and I actually had a look around. The saphires were gorgeous and the settings really unique but I'm a bit of an idiot when it comes to jewlery and what's good. If it's sparkly and pretty I like it. Furniture, fabrics and such that's another story I'm you're gal, but jewelry, no. That said I do not purchase things I have no knowledge of.

Finally we are taken back to the palace. What do you know, IT'S OPEN!

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...kd6wd&Ux=1
laartista is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 05:05 PM
  #29  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Congratulations! Everyone gets scammed at least once. Consider yourself initiated!

Since you are a mosaic artist (right?), please tell me you went to Wat Arun....
Kristina is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 05:58 PM
  #30  
 
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Great report! I'm LOL as I read. I got taken for a taxi ride on my 11th trip to BKK, so the scams aren't just for the newbies.

Keep the report coming. It's pure reading pleasure...
Carol
simpsonc510 is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 06:16 PM
  #31  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I love everyone's trip reports (thank you all for posting) . . . but . . . I haven't enjoyed one as much as yours since we lost Elvira. Yours is GREAT!

Keep on . . . and please keep traveling just so we can be entertained with your wonderful reports.

Sandy (in Denton)
sandy_b is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 06:18 PM
  #32  
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,793
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I am enjoying your report too! We are also big Europe travelers heading to Asia for our first time.
Tim_and_Liz is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 06:56 PM
  #33  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 29,053
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i too am laughing and enjoying this...when you have been there so many times you forgot some of the pitfalls of your first visits...and there were many...

you haven't met a tout yet....it must be coming!!

the blue flag btw is the Queen's flag....the yellow one is the King's
rhkkmk is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 07:56 PM
  #34  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks again so much you guys. I always enjoy writing these reports. It allows me to relive my vacation. I have written this installment twice already only to have this dang computer freeze and lose it, hopefully 3rd times a charm.

Well the Grand Palace is open and fittingly named-- it is grand to say the least. first stop ticket office. Don't remember exactly how much I think 250-300 Baht. Robins not home, she usually recalls. i didn't take notes this trip and the ine thing I never remember is what things cost. Anyhoo after we buy the tickets it seems 3 of us, not me are dressed inappropriatly for the Grand Palace grounds. Shoulders and knees need to be covered. Luckily there is what looks like a lost and found box of appropriate coverups. robin is given a shirt, H a shirt and wrap skirt and T a skirt. We head in.

First thing I'm struck by are these HUGE mosaiced warrior figures. Totally imposing, totally cool. The colors alone are enough to give this artist a coronary. Really really anmazing. The 4 of us basically split up to wander alone occasionally running into each other.

I had seen pictures but nothing can prepare you for actually being there. Completely overwhelming. So much so I was actually brought to tears just as I was first time I saw the Forum, the Mesquite, the Blue Mosque and so many other wonderous places. I ran into Robin and she asked if I was alright. My eyes had filled with tears. I said yeah, it's just so unbelievable and I feel so very fortunate to be able to see these things in my life. I truely feel blessed whenever I travel. i work really hard so I can travel, top be honest it's what gets me thru the rough days, knowing I'll be going someplace amazing. It also saddened me. I thought of my parents and how they will never see this part of the world. they travel some, mostly domestic, occasionally to Europe but health is an issue these days. I wished they could see this with their own eyes because photos as good as they are , it's just not the same.

I wandered from structure to structure taking in the guilding and architecture and the mosaics, oh my ,the mosaics. Utterly inspired. You can be sure my fall line will be totally Thai influenced, buddhas and all.The colors, I had briefly forgotton how DAMN HOT it was! Luckily it was overcast. Took a spin by the Emerlad Buddha, slight in stature but huge on pomp. One of the most interesting buildings is the Chedi. said to house a part of Buddha's breastbone. Along it's circular edge are Ramakien figures for protection. These really cool figures have arms out and are completely mosaiced. I kept thinking how I would love to have one in my apartment and what a great conversation piece it would be. LOL Could you imagine.

Anyway I guess we tooled around about an hour or so when we all met up again. We walked over to where the guard were changing, watched that, walked some more and decided it was time to head over to Wat Po. Jim Thompson would have to wait til Tuesday. The girls returned their borrowed clothes and we were outta there.

There was a bit of a discrepency on which way to go. Afterall you know WAT they say ( lol a little play on words for ya) too many cooks. About a 10 minute walk or so to wat Po. Passed the street sellers with their wares on blankets, each calling out to you to stop. Pretty aggreessive I thought, but so not bothered by it. it was definitely after 2 and we had not eaten since breakfast around 8. But, you know I was so not hungry. I'll say it again, it was just TOO DAMN HOT to eat. Lost my appetite. Thing is Riobin is a type 1 diabetic, insulin dependent so she has to eat to prevent her sugar from dropping. She had glucose tabs but we were looking for some real food.

Now I know street food is a big deal in BKK and call me what you will, but I just wasn't going there. It smelled gross and looked even worse and the thought of Diarhea for the rest of my trip just wasn't sitting well with me. Oooh a patisserie across the street.

We head over and I'm about to step up when I see it and liyerally scream and start pointing OMG, OMG look it's a dragon. I totally turned into carrie Bradshaw when she went to the country. Thre it was, 1 big ass lizard animal parked right in front of the patisserie door. i think it might well have been one of those Komodo Dragon things. He didn't belong to them, probably was looking to get in for the air conditioning. Can't really blame him cause it was SO DAMN HOT! Lol
laartista is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 08:08 PM
  #35  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oops pix from the Palace

http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...oz51z&Ux=1
laartista is offline  
Old Sep 12th, 2007, 09:58 PM
  #36  
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Really enjoying the reports, but one statement is a little off.

"I don't blame these girls, it's how they are brought up, it's what they know".

Many of these girls come from poor villages in NE Thailand. Becoming a "working girl" isn't how they were brought up. Sadly, many have had a child (or two) with a Thai man who has promised to take care of them, but then leaves, forcing these women to support both themselves and a child. Many have friends that have gone the BKK route and tell them about how much money they are able to make. So the women leave their child behind with family and head off to BKK. Most of the money they make is sent back home to support the child and other family members. It is very sad that they do this, but unfortunately it happens and happens a lot. By the way, Thai men are far away the highest users of Thai prostitution.
Bisbee is offline  
Old Sep 13th, 2007, 01:13 AM
  #37  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hi Bisbee. Maybe that came off a bit wrong .I meant it's what they know to make money. Which it is, it's why they do it. Interesting what you say about Thai men being the biggest abusers of Thai prostitution. I kept wondering what Thai men thought about it. To be honest I didn't see any old Thai guys amorously holding the hand of a young Thai girl, but I did see alot and I mean alot of older western guys doing so. And these girls looked really really young even taking into consideration that the Thai women have a youthful appearance to begin with. I remember in Koh Samui this guy about 55 or so with a beautiful young girl she looked very very young,maybe 15 they were on a "date". There was an Australian couple at the bar and a few german girls and all were talking about the same thing, this guy and that girl. It is really shocking to see. And, these guys know it's wrong because when they see a western woman or couple looking every single one lowers their head conciously or not. Why, because the know it's both wrong and disgusting. Believe me I feel terribly sorry for these girls who have no other option than to take this route. Can't help though that it turns my stomach. In all seriousness, thanks for the education because I honestly don't know much on the subject so the information is welcome. My friend and I were talking about the ladyboys, because the're seemed to be alot of them. And we thought maybe because child sexual abuse is so rampant. that's probably an ignorant thought as well. I better shut my mouth . I forgot to ask this, Is this prostitution legal there? Is it monitored by the government at all? I guess we were all really shocked at how in your face it is. Especially in BKK. Glad you're enjoying the report otherwise.
laartista is offline  
Old Sep 13th, 2007, 02:36 AM
  #38  
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I don't want to hijack your post, so I won't give a long reply. Prostitution is illegal in Thailand. And yes, it's all very "in your face" in BKK. It's even worse in Pattaya. If someone can tell me how to post a personal message on this board, I'll send you more info.

Thanks for the reports. Very entertaining!
Bisbee is offline  
Old Sep 13th, 2007, 03:06 AM
  #39  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Don't mind hijacking unless it's on a plane. BUT, if you'de rather, my email is [email protected]. We all found it interesting so I'd welcome the info. Thanks Bisbee.

On another note ,someone please help me with this jetlag! Haven't slept since 3 pm yesterday. LOL
laartista is offline  
Old Sep 13th, 2007, 04:09 AM
  #40  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The sad thing about what you've described is that for bona fide mixed race couple they are often look down upon, especially if the man is not Thai. Even superstar like Tiger Woods had that problem during his "amateur" years.
Hanuman is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Your Privacy Choices -