the end of out-of-date trip report, but I promised I would finish it
Aug 17th, 2006, 10:43 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
the end of out-of-date trip report, but I promised I would finish it
Only 7 months later here it is a finished Johh and Cori's trip report. The irst half of the trip report can be found at this link
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...pep&fid=27
if you need a reminder. The trip was BKK to Mae Hong Song, Chiang Mai, Phgna Nga bay, Khao Lok, 21 days. Since the report got slim at the end don’t hesitate to ask questions. I don’t even know who will want to read this, it being 7 months old, but I promised myself I would finish it. Here is the rest....
Day 7: January 7th
We met Ball again at 8:30 am for a trip on a longtail along the Pai River to an Extopic Padong Tribe (longnecks). Originally we weren’t too sure about visiting a longneck tribe, but Ball said it interesting to see the differences b/t the various hill tribes, especially noting the differences in self-sufficiency.
On the longtail we passed an elephant camp, a number of kingfishers perched over the river on low hanging branches and number of villagers headed towards the landing on their way into town for the day. It was a pleasant way to start the day.
We weren’t prepared for how touristy the longnecks village would be. We were the only tourists there at that time, but the stoops on the front of their huts were a showcase of the female villager’s weavings and selling manufactured souvenirs. We were encouraged by a very elderly woman to come sit and have our picture taken. Apparently she was the eldest of all the females in the tribe; we met one of her grandchildren up the path. She then insisted on payment after the photo. I put my camera away after that and walked on. I took a few more photos later, of the children in the lane kicking the soccer ball, the farm animals in the shadows of the huts and a couple of a young girl with a new puppy.
Ball explained that people from Chiang Mai came to the village and sold them these souvenirs for the longnecks to resell. Unlike the Karen tribe we visited the day b/f the woman here buy their yarn dyed and then weave it. The village is also building bungalows for visitors to stay overnight on a hill covered with the sunflowers.
The highlight was hanging out in the school house talking, when a bunch of children came in. I had brought pencils with different trout and fish carved on the tips to share as gifts, so I handed them out and the children were quite excited. I also had postcards with pictures of the wildlife and mountains of Montana that I shared. They looked at them and asked Ball questions that we answered. We made noises like the animals. Lots of laughs.
Back on the longtail and then we drove to Fish Cave. We ate lunch at the foodstalls. Pad Thai and papaya salad. Tham Pla Forest Park or the Fish Cave is quite unique. In underwater caves a shoals of golden carp. The fish are believed to be sacred and therefore never eaten. The grounds were lovely around the cave and the carpe were indeed impressive, quite unusual. They sold food scraps to visitors to feed the carpe, they liked the lettuce and watermelon best, although we just watched, didn’t feed.
Next we drove up towards the Burmese border passing Shan, Hmong, mixed Chinese villages. In the area we visited both coffee and tea villages. Tasted tea and wondered around the village. It was very peaceful. The coffee village was a Queen’s project and the villagers were proud. Every village longs for the Queen to visit b/c funds are made available to improve the roads and village. The biggest thing in paving the windy, rutty dirt roads that lead to these hill tribes. Of course where there is coffee and tea now, there once was opium. The hills that hug the village where tea is grown is speckled with soldiers pacing the ridge.
The day finished with drinking beers with Ball at Fern Resort. He showed us some of his drawings and we discussed the possibility of another adventure tomorrow. In the end we decided to enjoy the morning at Fern and catch a flight back to Chiang Mai (originally we planned to hirer a driver to finish the loop).
That eve we ate dinner at the Fern Restaurant, went to an internet café where we lost our minds and splurged for a night at Four Seasons Chiang Mai.
Day 8: January 8th
We ate breakfast, went to the Saturday market which was eye candy. This is no tourist market, it is when merchants from Chiang Mai come to Mae Hong Son with their wares. CD’s, pots and pans, underoos, sandals, hats, dried fish, live fish, plants, grains and spices, toys, grooming supplies, every and anything. Monks, longnecks, Karen, Hmong, Shan were shopping. It was quite entertaining to observe.
Back to Fern, swam, packed and left for airport. The flight was as long as a sneeze.
Straight to Four Seasons. 1.5 hour wait for room, drank iced teas overlooking the fields. Got settled worked out, swam, enjoyed the romantic turn down service, dinner and a goodnight facial at the spa.
Day 9: January 9th
Words to describe our experience at Four Seasons: luscious, luxurious, pampered, exquisite, surreal, meticulous, romantic, seductive, spoiled, isolated, solicitous, expensive, expensive, delicious, eccentric.
We could have stayed in Mae Hong Song for 2-3 weeks living in relative royalty for what we paid during our one night we were royal at the 4 Seasons. If only we had that much time off.
We love, love, loved Mae Hong Song.
We checked out as late as possible trying to lower the “cost-per-hour” of our splurge. The hotel hired us a driver to take us to Bann Orapin. He recommended some bungalows near the 4 Seasons for our next visit.
Baan Orapin, was just what I was hoping for—fabulous location, charming, clean and run by an incredibly genuine man Opus and his family. It was 3 storefronts from the gallery, Luna Gallery, my parents recommend we go to, which was great. In fact is was on gallery row.
My only complaint about the Baan Orapin is that our room was dark. Next time I would also ask to stay in the back a bit more quiet and gets more light.
That night we walked over the bridge and after trying to get to in at Gerogios which was full for our first Italian food in a long time we caught a tuk tuk to Das Stefanos. Not good and poor service. Oh well. Wandered the market a bit, bought some sterling beads for my mother, walked back through the fresh market and then hit the bed.
Day 10: January 10th
First full day in Chiang Mai:
This was the day at breakfast we met our first Fodorite, and not just anyone, we met the renowned Gloria and her travel companion. Gloria’s advice guided me to Mae Hong Son, so I was very grateful. She was heading off with Poon to visit an artist, and we were in need of a driver, so when Poon showed up she called her friend Ya who agreed to take us around to galleries and unique Thai craft shops.
We had an hour or so b/f Ya arrived, so wondered the street Baan Orapin was so centrally located on and picked up a few gifts: silk placemats and table runners from Soi Mop Arts. We made our first trip into Luna Gallery and spotted several pieces we were interested in. More details on that when we go in for the second time.
Ya picked us up and we stopped for gas, she drove a really nice 4wd Honda, it was extremely comfortable. I had a list of places I wanted to go to for either gift purchases or just to enjoy seeing. They included: silk tour, ceramics factory, flower/plant nurseries, JJ Design center, Aka, Ginger, and Little Things.
It was a serious day of shopping and looking. We had a one of our worst meals at some Buffet near the silk factory it is for tour buses. It was expensive too for how bad it was. Ya took us there, which was the only bummer we experienced in the day and a half with her. I don’t know, maybe she thought we needed some “tourist” food.
Before dropping us off Ya suggested she pick us up in 2 days, the day we were flying out of Chiang Mai, early in the am to see the making of merit to the monks and for views sunrise views from Doi Suthep temple. It was her idea and it was excellent. She also wanted to take us to a place that locals go to for cheap American breakfast.
After a much needed rest, we wandered back to La Luna. The owner was there and remembered meeting my parents last year. We had a nice visit. I seriously liked 3 pieces, after 30mins narrowed it down to 2. I actually had a favorite, which is what we purchased, but I was trying to convince myself and John to get both. Reason won, especially after the night at 4 Seasons, we invested in a painting on aluminum by Therdkiat Wangwarcharakul. We also picked up a few of the small elephant paintings and some vases as gifts. We had a rush after purchasing the art, so we went to settle it with dinner on the river, a place Opus recommended. It was good. A German man came in alone and apparently spoke no English, so he took the waiter to our table and pointed at all our dishes and beers, he got exactly the same as us—funny. Two roosting chickens kept watch of us from the trees overhead.
Another quick trip to the market for me. Picked up a few more souvenirs, then met John back at the BO for bed.
Day 11: January 11th
This is the day of our course at Chiang Mai Cookery School. I am going to give this day short-shrift. So in summary…
Tuk tuk picked us up at BO about 30mins late, went to “headquarters” where we met up with a couple from Fern Resort in Mae Hong Son that was fun. Were there for 45 mins b/f heading out to the home. It was quite a large group, not exactly what we imagined.
Got the home and were ordered around so we could get started, a bit military for my tastes. They were the ones running so late.
On the menu was: Curries: Panaeng and Chiang Mai, Fish with chilies and basil, Sweet and Sour veggies, Spicy glass noodle salad, Black sticky rice pudding
We had a fun group, lots of laughs and we all shared each others food. The instructors were good, it was just all so fast. I would have rather done less and had more control and more time.
Pluses: with everyone cooking you could try how different dishes turned out depending on how much individuals put in of various ingredients, which is interesting and very useful.
Good menu. Nice open air setting. Good introduction.
Minuses: too big of a class, little too regimented b/c of rush, didn’t get to prep our own food, way too fast, so in the end not terribly useful.
I would go to a different cooking class next time. I met a Swedish woman in our class who had done a course just 2 days earlier at Thai Chocolate and preferred it to this one.
We were stuffed after the class so we went home and rested. The evening ended with bringing all our loot to the shipping office at the market. We had it all professionally packed and for $25us shipped to BKK where we would pick it up and hope to get it on the plane with no fees.
Dinner was at Georgios. It was solid Italian, especially for Thailand, much better than Das Stefanos.
Day 12: January 12th
6:30AM we wake up to Wat knocking on the door. The watch we bought at the day before died, so no alarm. We hurry scurried and got our stuff together fast enough to witness the making merit to the monks below Doi Suthep. We aimed to get to the top of Doi Suthep before sunrise, but the sun was up by the time we got to the bottom of the stairs.
After Doi Suthep Wat took us to a local popular diner, they serve American breakfast for $1. She goes there to meet friends. It was entertaining. Then we had her take us the grocery goes to and to her gym, just to see what they are like. Then she dropped us at the airport. Great end to Chiang Mai.
1.5 hour flight to Phuket. Expensive taxi to Baan Krating. The worst place we stayed: service, room and food. They actually served the worst food we had. Don’t want to focus on that though. It was a very isolated place, so again we had another expensive taxi ride to Kata Noi to eat at Mom’s Tri Villa. Before dinner we had drinks at the Boathouse. Happy Hour! The meal was good, but not nearly as good as some of our meals in Bangkok.
Went back to room after being harangued by tailors and taxi drivers on the street. Got are things ready for the 2 day kayak trip.
Day 13: January 13th
7:30 am and no wakeup call, lucky we just came too. We were headed out on our kayak adventure. Roy the guide, it is to be just John, the guide and myself. He requested we walk to the end of the drive, so he wouldn’t have to drive down the narrow path with the boats on the truck., so we did, then we waited 1 hour till he showed up.
Turns out he was having marital problems and got held up at home. He took us to the store to buy beverage, then to his home to store the belongings we don’t need (made us a bit nervous considering condition of home and marital climate).
When we arrived at the docks, there was a longtail to meet us. They loaded up the boats and off we went. We spent 2 days taking the boat to islands and then kayaking around and between the islands of Phang Nga Bay. We stayed in little huts on one of the islands, family owned, the only other 2 huts occupied were by local Thai fireman. It was a wonderful evening of eating fresh fish, rice papaya salad.
Day 14: January 14th
Another day of kayaking it is hard to describe the beauty. We rarely crossed the paths of others. Explored islands by foot, kayaked around Hongs and under limestone formations. The water was smoother than Roy had ever seen.
He was quite a character. He is American and has lived in Thailand for 15 years. His little operation was the only one that used real sea kayaks and he was incredibly knowledgeable. He collects orchids. So these things made up for his quirkiness.
At the end of the eve we took the boat back to the dock to the north of the bay. His wife was quite late picking us up. We paid her to take us to the car rental agency. She brought the bags with her.
Then we rented our wreck and drove up to Khao Lak. On the way we stopped to check out the JW Marriott Phuket and got into Khao Lak quite late. We stayed at the Sarojin, incredibly beautiful hotel and grounds. The bathrooms are sexy. There are 12 km of white immaculate sand beaches, almost entirely bare, except a couple of huts serving food. The hotel opened in October. It was supposed to open 3 days after the tsunami but was entirely wiped out. They kept on their staff and rebuilt. They are still learning the ropes, but the owners and staff are very receptive and sincere in making your stay as best as possible. All the staff are local, which is impressive since it takes more work to train locals that bring in staff from Bkk or other countries.
I am so pleased we chose to stay there. The beaches are spectacular and they need the support desperately, only 4 other rooms were booked when we first arrived. It is way behind Phuket for rehab. There are areas that are very tragic to see, but I think it is valuable to see that and be sensitive to what the area has experienced.
By the way we got a great deal at the hotel, pay 2 nights and stay 5. It was a piece of heaven, totally serene relative to tourism in Krabi and Phuket.
Days 14-19: January 19th
At the Sarojin, totally relaxing. Had planned to visit Khao Sok, but never motivated. Liked the R and R. I learned to windsurf, which we spent hours at. The rest of the time was eating at the beachside shack, walking the beach, reading, sleeping, and hanging out around the pool. We had couple massages, ordered pizza (which was quite good) from the restaurant and checked out the town, as well. The most active thing we did which was awesome was a snorkel trip to Similian Islands on their 38 ft boat, which is brand new. My god was it an incredible. Never (in Australia, Barbados, Hawaii, Mexico) have I ever seen anything like the granite formations and sea life like I saw that day. I felt like I was in another world. The visibility was terrific. I even found myself floating above divers. In fact one diver scared a giant sea turtle right up to me at up to the surface. I laid still as it brushed my belly.
They served up a delicious lunch on the boat and beverages kept flowing (beer, wine, mineral water). They even served afternoon tea with desserts on the ride back, which did feel long (water got choppy)
The 3 other couples on the boat were very entertaining. That night we were all invited by the owners to a cocktail party. That was a nice touch.
I would go back to Khao Lak in a minute. Plus you are so close to fabulous National Parks. We intended to go to Khao Sok, but got too into learning to windsurf and reading our books on the beach. Next time for sure.
Days 19-21: January 19th- 21st
The last days of our trip were back at the Marriott in Bangkok. We finished the trip with shopping, finishing up our tailored clothes and massages and two meals at Face (holy moly are they intense). We also met up with other Fodorites at the Oriental for drinks which was lovely. I feel bad for being so bad on my trip report since you all were so generous with advice.
We were sad to go late on the 20th. In fact we almost missed our flight since we got overwhelmed at the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. The first time we went there was after the New Year and we weren’t that impressed. Now I know that it was operating at ½ capacity b/c of the holiday, in fact it was very different around the city now than it was 2 weeks ago. The traffic now matched what we had been hearing, gridlock.
During planning we thought we didn’t need much time in Bangkok, but I feel very differently now. I feel like I just had a tease.
Flight home:
Very smooth and actually one of the highlights of the trip was our Korean Bath experience. We had a 8 + hour layover in Seoul and John’s boss advised us to find a traditional Korean sauna. Before arriving we looked on the internet, but didn’t find any closed to the airport. So we asked the infro desk upon arrival. She first wanted to direct us to a tourist, western spa, but then she realized we wanted the real thing.
It is a long story, so I am going to give the short of it, b/c it is a miracle I am completing this report at all.
She gave us directions and a scrap of paper with two Korean words on it, to take a shuttle to this new sauna “Airport Spaland’, yes that is its name. There is large business park around the airport and supposedly this new sauna was located in the basement of one. It took us a while to find it. The bus driver advised us to get off a few stops early, so in 30degree weather in our Thai cool clothes we shivered from building to building asking non-English speaking Korean’s where it was and showing them the paper.
Finally found it. No one spoke English; it was in a ½ abandoned building. They only took cash we realized and we got it across to them that we wanted the scrub. It was humorous communicating, but they too were amused and in awe of us. John went up to find a cash machine and I waited in the chair looking at the dolphin decorated “Airport SpaLand sign, the only thing in English. The use of the saunas was free, a grand-opening promotion the woman at the airport said, so we only had to pay for the scrubs.
John came back and found out they had calculated the cost wrong and he didn’t get enough (he only got $20 usd at first, b/c he didn’t want to end up with extra). He went back the cash machine. Mean while they drag me into the women’s side and gesture to me what to do.
I wonder around the series of pools, try not to stare at the women crouching scrubbing the crap out of their kids. I reach into one of the four central pools and nearly getting a 3rd degree burn. The coolest of these tubs was hottest I have ever been in. There is also 2 saunas which I ventured into next. SOOO hot. Women were all sitting in this cave like sauna Indian style, cooking beverages in the middle. They just stared at me all 10 of them. So then I went to the next on, no soo hot, but still hot. There we 4 young women, they left shortly as my white bootie got in, but one stayed behind. She asked where I was from. I think she was the only one that spoke English. She asked why I wasn’t’ embarrassed like other Americans to be naked, then left. Funny. After exiting I stand under a shower head and pull the chord, I am beat up by ice cold water.
The next stop was the cold plunges, they included jets pubic height and power jet head out of the ceiling that nearly knocks you over, I was bruised.
An hour went by and then I was captured by the women in black panties, put on the bed and scrubbed to pieces, literally. Little pasta size rolls of my skin were all around me. The woman scrubbed for 30 mins, every last inch. She would manhandle me to roll me or twist me as needed. Periodically she would douse me with a bucket of water. The finale was her rubbing a familiar smelling cream on my face, it took me a while but I finally recognized it, strawberry yogurt.
As I was scrubbed I was imagining John 6’6 getting one of the scrubs on the men’s side and sitting in the sauna around the petit Korean men and boys, it made me laugh. He said he didn’t get the yogurt though.
After the de-skinning I spent more time in the hot pools until the black panty lady drug me to the dressing room. I realized she wanted me to put on the little uniform of orange shorts and shirt she gave me and go out. John had asked them where I was since several hours had gone by since he had last seen me on his second trip to the cash machine. There was this whole other part I didn’t know existed with four more saunas, heated marble floors and wood headrests. Families were all sprawled out eating, sleeping and watching shows on the big screen tv. We found a corner and napped, periodically getting up to sit in a sauna. It was heavenly. 5+ hours later we left, after one more turn around the pools. I bought some of the scrubbers.
We grabbed a ridiculously expensive meal at the Hyatt, it was delicious though and caught our flight back to Seattle glowing radiantly.
That was the end of a glorious trip.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...pep&fid=27
if you need a reminder. The trip was BKK to Mae Hong Song, Chiang Mai, Phgna Nga bay, Khao Lok, 21 days. Since the report got slim at the end don’t hesitate to ask questions. I don’t even know who will want to read this, it being 7 months old, but I promised myself I would finish it. Here is the rest....
Day 7: January 7th
We met Ball again at 8:30 am for a trip on a longtail along the Pai River to an Extopic Padong Tribe (longnecks). Originally we weren’t too sure about visiting a longneck tribe, but Ball said it interesting to see the differences b/t the various hill tribes, especially noting the differences in self-sufficiency.
On the longtail we passed an elephant camp, a number of kingfishers perched over the river on low hanging branches and number of villagers headed towards the landing on their way into town for the day. It was a pleasant way to start the day.
We weren’t prepared for how touristy the longnecks village would be. We were the only tourists there at that time, but the stoops on the front of their huts were a showcase of the female villager’s weavings and selling manufactured souvenirs. We were encouraged by a very elderly woman to come sit and have our picture taken. Apparently she was the eldest of all the females in the tribe; we met one of her grandchildren up the path. She then insisted on payment after the photo. I put my camera away after that and walked on. I took a few more photos later, of the children in the lane kicking the soccer ball, the farm animals in the shadows of the huts and a couple of a young girl with a new puppy.
Ball explained that people from Chiang Mai came to the village and sold them these souvenirs for the longnecks to resell. Unlike the Karen tribe we visited the day b/f the woman here buy their yarn dyed and then weave it. The village is also building bungalows for visitors to stay overnight on a hill covered with the sunflowers.
The highlight was hanging out in the school house talking, when a bunch of children came in. I had brought pencils with different trout and fish carved on the tips to share as gifts, so I handed them out and the children were quite excited. I also had postcards with pictures of the wildlife and mountains of Montana that I shared. They looked at them and asked Ball questions that we answered. We made noises like the animals. Lots of laughs.
Back on the longtail and then we drove to Fish Cave. We ate lunch at the foodstalls. Pad Thai and papaya salad. Tham Pla Forest Park or the Fish Cave is quite unique. In underwater caves a shoals of golden carp. The fish are believed to be sacred and therefore never eaten. The grounds were lovely around the cave and the carpe were indeed impressive, quite unusual. They sold food scraps to visitors to feed the carpe, they liked the lettuce and watermelon best, although we just watched, didn’t feed.
Next we drove up towards the Burmese border passing Shan, Hmong, mixed Chinese villages. In the area we visited both coffee and tea villages. Tasted tea and wondered around the village. It was very peaceful. The coffee village was a Queen’s project and the villagers were proud. Every village longs for the Queen to visit b/c funds are made available to improve the roads and village. The biggest thing in paving the windy, rutty dirt roads that lead to these hill tribes. Of course where there is coffee and tea now, there once was opium. The hills that hug the village where tea is grown is speckled with soldiers pacing the ridge.
The day finished with drinking beers with Ball at Fern Resort. He showed us some of his drawings and we discussed the possibility of another adventure tomorrow. In the end we decided to enjoy the morning at Fern and catch a flight back to Chiang Mai (originally we planned to hirer a driver to finish the loop).
That eve we ate dinner at the Fern Restaurant, went to an internet café where we lost our minds and splurged for a night at Four Seasons Chiang Mai.
Day 8: January 8th
We ate breakfast, went to the Saturday market which was eye candy. This is no tourist market, it is when merchants from Chiang Mai come to Mae Hong Son with their wares. CD’s, pots and pans, underoos, sandals, hats, dried fish, live fish, plants, grains and spices, toys, grooming supplies, every and anything. Monks, longnecks, Karen, Hmong, Shan were shopping. It was quite entertaining to observe.
Back to Fern, swam, packed and left for airport. The flight was as long as a sneeze.
Straight to Four Seasons. 1.5 hour wait for room, drank iced teas overlooking the fields. Got settled worked out, swam, enjoyed the romantic turn down service, dinner and a goodnight facial at the spa.
Day 9: January 9th
Words to describe our experience at Four Seasons: luscious, luxurious, pampered, exquisite, surreal, meticulous, romantic, seductive, spoiled, isolated, solicitous, expensive, expensive, delicious, eccentric.
We could have stayed in Mae Hong Song for 2-3 weeks living in relative royalty for what we paid during our one night we were royal at the 4 Seasons. If only we had that much time off.
We love, love, loved Mae Hong Song.
We checked out as late as possible trying to lower the “cost-per-hour” of our splurge. The hotel hired us a driver to take us to Bann Orapin. He recommended some bungalows near the 4 Seasons for our next visit.
Baan Orapin, was just what I was hoping for—fabulous location, charming, clean and run by an incredibly genuine man Opus and his family. It was 3 storefronts from the gallery, Luna Gallery, my parents recommend we go to, which was great. In fact is was on gallery row.
My only complaint about the Baan Orapin is that our room was dark. Next time I would also ask to stay in the back a bit more quiet and gets more light.
That night we walked over the bridge and after trying to get to in at Gerogios which was full for our first Italian food in a long time we caught a tuk tuk to Das Stefanos. Not good and poor service. Oh well. Wandered the market a bit, bought some sterling beads for my mother, walked back through the fresh market and then hit the bed.
Day 10: January 10th
First full day in Chiang Mai:
This was the day at breakfast we met our first Fodorite, and not just anyone, we met the renowned Gloria and her travel companion. Gloria’s advice guided me to Mae Hong Son, so I was very grateful. She was heading off with Poon to visit an artist, and we were in need of a driver, so when Poon showed up she called her friend Ya who agreed to take us around to galleries and unique Thai craft shops.
We had an hour or so b/f Ya arrived, so wondered the street Baan Orapin was so centrally located on and picked up a few gifts: silk placemats and table runners from Soi Mop Arts. We made our first trip into Luna Gallery and spotted several pieces we were interested in. More details on that when we go in for the second time.
Ya picked us up and we stopped for gas, she drove a really nice 4wd Honda, it was extremely comfortable. I had a list of places I wanted to go to for either gift purchases or just to enjoy seeing. They included: silk tour, ceramics factory, flower/plant nurseries, JJ Design center, Aka, Ginger, and Little Things.
It was a serious day of shopping and looking. We had a one of our worst meals at some Buffet near the silk factory it is for tour buses. It was expensive too for how bad it was. Ya took us there, which was the only bummer we experienced in the day and a half with her. I don’t know, maybe she thought we needed some “tourist” food.
Before dropping us off Ya suggested she pick us up in 2 days, the day we were flying out of Chiang Mai, early in the am to see the making of merit to the monks and for views sunrise views from Doi Suthep temple. It was her idea and it was excellent. She also wanted to take us to a place that locals go to for cheap American breakfast.
After a much needed rest, we wandered back to La Luna. The owner was there and remembered meeting my parents last year. We had a nice visit. I seriously liked 3 pieces, after 30mins narrowed it down to 2. I actually had a favorite, which is what we purchased, but I was trying to convince myself and John to get both. Reason won, especially after the night at 4 Seasons, we invested in a painting on aluminum by Therdkiat Wangwarcharakul. We also picked up a few of the small elephant paintings and some vases as gifts. We had a rush after purchasing the art, so we went to settle it with dinner on the river, a place Opus recommended. It was good. A German man came in alone and apparently spoke no English, so he took the waiter to our table and pointed at all our dishes and beers, he got exactly the same as us—funny. Two roosting chickens kept watch of us from the trees overhead.
Another quick trip to the market for me. Picked up a few more souvenirs, then met John back at the BO for bed.
Day 11: January 11th
This is the day of our course at Chiang Mai Cookery School. I am going to give this day short-shrift. So in summary…
Tuk tuk picked us up at BO about 30mins late, went to “headquarters” where we met up with a couple from Fern Resort in Mae Hong Son that was fun. Were there for 45 mins b/f heading out to the home. It was quite a large group, not exactly what we imagined.
Got the home and were ordered around so we could get started, a bit military for my tastes. They were the ones running so late.
On the menu was: Curries: Panaeng and Chiang Mai, Fish with chilies and basil, Sweet and Sour veggies, Spicy glass noodle salad, Black sticky rice pudding
We had a fun group, lots of laughs and we all shared each others food. The instructors were good, it was just all so fast. I would have rather done less and had more control and more time.
Pluses: with everyone cooking you could try how different dishes turned out depending on how much individuals put in of various ingredients, which is interesting and very useful.
Good menu. Nice open air setting. Good introduction.
Minuses: too big of a class, little too regimented b/c of rush, didn’t get to prep our own food, way too fast, so in the end not terribly useful.
I would go to a different cooking class next time. I met a Swedish woman in our class who had done a course just 2 days earlier at Thai Chocolate and preferred it to this one.
We were stuffed after the class so we went home and rested. The evening ended with bringing all our loot to the shipping office at the market. We had it all professionally packed and for $25us shipped to BKK where we would pick it up and hope to get it on the plane with no fees.
Dinner was at Georgios. It was solid Italian, especially for Thailand, much better than Das Stefanos.
Day 12: January 12th
6:30AM we wake up to Wat knocking on the door. The watch we bought at the day before died, so no alarm. We hurry scurried and got our stuff together fast enough to witness the making merit to the monks below Doi Suthep. We aimed to get to the top of Doi Suthep before sunrise, but the sun was up by the time we got to the bottom of the stairs.
After Doi Suthep Wat took us to a local popular diner, they serve American breakfast for $1. She goes there to meet friends. It was entertaining. Then we had her take us the grocery goes to and to her gym, just to see what they are like. Then she dropped us at the airport. Great end to Chiang Mai.
1.5 hour flight to Phuket. Expensive taxi to Baan Krating. The worst place we stayed: service, room and food. They actually served the worst food we had. Don’t want to focus on that though. It was a very isolated place, so again we had another expensive taxi ride to Kata Noi to eat at Mom’s Tri Villa. Before dinner we had drinks at the Boathouse. Happy Hour! The meal was good, but not nearly as good as some of our meals in Bangkok.
Went back to room after being harangued by tailors and taxi drivers on the street. Got are things ready for the 2 day kayak trip.
Day 13: January 13th
7:30 am and no wakeup call, lucky we just came too. We were headed out on our kayak adventure. Roy the guide, it is to be just John, the guide and myself. He requested we walk to the end of the drive, so he wouldn’t have to drive down the narrow path with the boats on the truck., so we did, then we waited 1 hour till he showed up.
Turns out he was having marital problems and got held up at home. He took us to the store to buy beverage, then to his home to store the belongings we don’t need (made us a bit nervous considering condition of home and marital climate).
When we arrived at the docks, there was a longtail to meet us. They loaded up the boats and off we went. We spent 2 days taking the boat to islands and then kayaking around and between the islands of Phang Nga Bay. We stayed in little huts on one of the islands, family owned, the only other 2 huts occupied were by local Thai fireman. It was a wonderful evening of eating fresh fish, rice papaya salad.
Day 14: January 14th
Another day of kayaking it is hard to describe the beauty. We rarely crossed the paths of others. Explored islands by foot, kayaked around Hongs and under limestone formations. The water was smoother than Roy had ever seen.
He was quite a character. He is American and has lived in Thailand for 15 years. His little operation was the only one that used real sea kayaks and he was incredibly knowledgeable. He collects orchids. So these things made up for his quirkiness.
At the end of the eve we took the boat back to the dock to the north of the bay. His wife was quite late picking us up. We paid her to take us to the car rental agency. She brought the bags with her.
Then we rented our wreck and drove up to Khao Lak. On the way we stopped to check out the JW Marriott Phuket and got into Khao Lak quite late. We stayed at the Sarojin, incredibly beautiful hotel and grounds. The bathrooms are sexy. There are 12 km of white immaculate sand beaches, almost entirely bare, except a couple of huts serving food. The hotel opened in October. It was supposed to open 3 days after the tsunami but was entirely wiped out. They kept on their staff and rebuilt. They are still learning the ropes, but the owners and staff are very receptive and sincere in making your stay as best as possible. All the staff are local, which is impressive since it takes more work to train locals that bring in staff from Bkk or other countries.
I am so pleased we chose to stay there. The beaches are spectacular and they need the support desperately, only 4 other rooms were booked when we first arrived. It is way behind Phuket for rehab. There are areas that are very tragic to see, but I think it is valuable to see that and be sensitive to what the area has experienced.
By the way we got a great deal at the hotel, pay 2 nights and stay 5. It was a piece of heaven, totally serene relative to tourism in Krabi and Phuket.
Days 14-19: January 19th
At the Sarojin, totally relaxing. Had planned to visit Khao Sok, but never motivated. Liked the R and R. I learned to windsurf, which we spent hours at. The rest of the time was eating at the beachside shack, walking the beach, reading, sleeping, and hanging out around the pool. We had couple massages, ordered pizza (which was quite good) from the restaurant and checked out the town, as well. The most active thing we did which was awesome was a snorkel trip to Similian Islands on their 38 ft boat, which is brand new. My god was it an incredible. Never (in Australia, Barbados, Hawaii, Mexico) have I ever seen anything like the granite formations and sea life like I saw that day. I felt like I was in another world. The visibility was terrific. I even found myself floating above divers. In fact one diver scared a giant sea turtle right up to me at up to the surface. I laid still as it brushed my belly.
They served up a delicious lunch on the boat and beverages kept flowing (beer, wine, mineral water). They even served afternoon tea with desserts on the ride back, which did feel long (water got choppy)
The 3 other couples on the boat were very entertaining. That night we were all invited by the owners to a cocktail party. That was a nice touch.
I would go back to Khao Lak in a minute. Plus you are so close to fabulous National Parks. We intended to go to Khao Sok, but got too into learning to windsurf and reading our books on the beach. Next time for sure.
Days 19-21: January 19th- 21st
The last days of our trip were back at the Marriott in Bangkok. We finished the trip with shopping, finishing up our tailored clothes and massages and two meals at Face (holy moly are they intense). We also met up with other Fodorites at the Oriental for drinks which was lovely. I feel bad for being so bad on my trip report since you all were so generous with advice.
We were sad to go late on the 20th. In fact we almost missed our flight since we got overwhelmed at the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. The first time we went there was after the New Year and we weren’t that impressed. Now I know that it was operating at ½ capacity b/c of the holiday, in fact it was very different around the city now than it was 2 weeks ago. The traffic now matched what we had been hearing, gridlock.
During planning we thought we didn’t need much time in Bangkok, but I feel very differently now. I feel like I just had a tease.
Flight home:
Very smooth and actually one of the highlights of the trip was our Korean Bath experience. We had a 8 + hour layover in Seoul and John’s boss advised us to find a traditional Korean sauna. Before arriving we looked on the internet, but didn’t find any closed to the airport. So we asked the infro desk upon arrival. She first wanted to direct us to a tourist, western spa, but then she realized we wanted the real thing.
It is a long story, so I am going to give the short of it, b/c it is a miracle I am completing this report at all.
She gave us directions and a scrap of paper with two Korean words on it, to take a shuttle to this new sauna “Airport Spaland’, yes that is its name. There is large business park around the airport and supposedly this new sauna was located in the basement of one. It took us a while to find it. The bus driver advised us to get off a few stops early, so in 30degree weather in our Thai cool clothes we shivered from building to building asking non-English speaking Korean’s where it was and showing them the paper.
Finally found it. No one spoke English; it was in a ½ abandoned building. They only took cash we realized and we got it across to them that we wanted the scrub. It was humorous communicating, but they too were amused and in awe of us. John went up to find a cash machine and I waited in the chair looking at the dolphin decorated “Airport SpaLand sign, the only thing in English. The use of the saunas was free, a grand-opening promotion the woman at the airport said, so we only had to pay for the scrubs.
John came back and found out they had calculated the cost wrong and he didn’t get enough (he only got $20 usd at first, b/c he didn’t want to end up with extra). He went back the cash machine. Mean while they drag me into the women’s side and gesture to me what to do.
I wonder around the series of pools, try not to stare at the women crouching scrubbing the crap out of their kids. I reach into one of the four central pools and nearly getting a 3rd degree burn. The coolest of these tubs was hottest I have ever been in. There is also 2 saunas which I ventured into next. SOOO hot. Women were all sitting in this cave like sauna Indian style, cooking beverages in the middle. They just stared at me all 10 of them. So then I went to the next on, no soo hot, but still hot. There we 4 young women, they left shortly as my white bootie got in, but one stayed behind. She asked where I was from. I think she was the only one that spoke English. She asked why I wasn’t’ embarrassed like other Americans to be naked, then left. Funny. After exiting I stand under a shower head and pull the chord, I am beat up by ice cold water.
The next stop was the cold plunges, they included jets pubic height and power jet head out of the ceiling that nearly knocks you over, I was bruised.
An hour went by and then I was captured by the women in black panties, put on the bed and scrubbed to pieces, literally. Little pasta size rolls of my skin were all around me. The woman scrubbed for 30 mins, every last inch. She would manhandle me to roll me or twist me as needed. Periodically she would douse me with a bucket of water. The finale was her rubbing a familiar smelling cream on my face, it took me a while but I finally recognized it, strawberry yogurt.
As I was scrubbed I was imagining John 6’6 getting one of the scrubs on the men’s side and sitting in the sauna around the petit Korean men and boys, it made me laugh. He said he didn’t get the yogurt though.
After the de-skinning I spent more time in the hot pools until the black panty lady drug me to the dressing room. I realized she wanted me to put on the little uniform of orange shorts and shirt she gave me and go out. John had asked them where I was since several hours had gone by since he had last seen me on his second trip to the cash machine. There was this whole other part I didn’t know existed with four more saunas, heated marble floors and wood headrests. Families were all sprawled out eating, sleeping and watching shows on the big screen tv. We found a corner and napped, periodically getting up to sit in a sauna. It was heavenly. 5+ hours later we left, after one more turn around the pools. I bought some of the scrubbers.
We grabbed a ridiculously expensive meal at the Hyatt, it was delicious though and caught our flight back to Seattle glowing radiantly.
That was the end of a glorious trip.
Aug 18th, 2006, 05:53 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,546
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well done report.
The correct URL for your is: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34762554
May I suggest that it would have been better to post this as a reply to your original report, which would have brought it up to the top again.
The correct URL for your is: http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34762554
May I suggest that it would have been better to post this as a reply to your original report, which would have brought it up to the top again.
Aug 18th, 2006, 10:13 AM
#8
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Cori
It was nice meeting you in BKK back in January, along with Gloria, at the Bamboo Bar at the Oriental. Thank you for coming back here to the forum to finish your report. I was sure you and John enjoyed your trip, just from talking with you over a glass of wine that lovely afternoon. I enjoyed reading your report! Thanks for sharing.
Carol
It was nice meeting you in BKK back in January, along with Gloria, at the Bamboo Bar at the Oriental. Thank you for coming back here to the forum to finish your report. I was sure you and John enjoyed your trip, just from talking with you over a glass of wine that lovely afternoon. I enjoyed reading your report! Thanks for sharing.
Carol
Aug 18th, 2006, 10:49 AM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It was great meeting you too. You really inspired me to spend more time exploring Bangkok.
John and I have had an exciting 7 months since our return. I started a job that has me traveling a ton. I have mad 15 trips to Southern California (Bev. Hill, Palm Desert, Santa Barbara and San Diego), 3 trips to Hawaii, and a few other places Dallas and St.Paul. I made a trip to Chicago to go to NeoCon, the trade fair for interior designers and architects. I have been planning on going to grad. school for interior architecture, but was encouraged to look at architecture by various professionals at the conference.
We sold our house in Missoula, MT and are residing temporarily in Park City, although we spend 5 weeks in New York where I took a 5-week Introduction to Architecture course at Columbia. So now I am sold on architecture and am preparing a portfolio in order to apply for Fall 2007.
Gloria, I don’t think we will be living in Chicago in the near future. Surprisingly, there aren’t any M. Arch programs there that float my boat. There is a good chance I will intern there or work for a firm post-graduation. I also visit once a year, so I will let you know. It would be great to see you.
In the next month I will have spent 2 days in Seattle, a week in Missoula, 2 days in Santa Cruz and 3 weeks on the Dalmatian coast and in N. Italy.
John is currently in Alaska, just finished a 6 day kayak and hike trip with his dad and brother.
October we are around. Then in November we head off to Spain and Morocco for 3 weeks.
Any advice on any of these place email me [email protected]
We are taking advantage of no home responsibility. It is amazing.
John and I have had an exciting 7 months since our return. I started a job that has me traveling a ton. I have mad 15 trips to Southern California (Bev. Hill, Palm Desert, Santa Barbara and San Diego), 3 trips to Hawaii, and a few other places Dallas and St.Paul. I made a trip to Chicago to go to NeoCon, the trade fair for interior designers and architects. I have been planning on going to grad. school for interior architecture, but was encouraged to look at architecture by various professionals at the conference.
We sold our house in Missoula, MT and are residing temporarily in Park City, although we spend 5 weeks in New York where I took a 5-week Introduction to Architecture course at Columbia. So now I am sold on architecture and am preparing a portfolio in order to apply for Fall 2007.
Gloria, I don’t think we will be living in Chicago in the near future. Surprisingly, there aren’t any M. Arch programs there that float my boat. There is a good chance I will intern there or work for a firm post-graduation. I also visit once a year, so I will let you know. It would be great to see you.
In the next month I will have spent 2 days in Seattle, a week in Missoula, 2 days in Santa Cruz and 3 weeks on the Dalmatian coast and in N. Italy.
John is currently in Alaska, just finished a 6 day kayak and hike trip with his dad and brother.
October we are around. Then in November we head off to Spain and Morocco for 3 weeks.
Any advice on any of these place email me [email protected]
We are taking advantage of no home responsibility. It is amazing.
