Actual spelling is --- burfee--- pronounced "burr fee". It' s a generic name for Indian sweets made with milk and sugar and all sort of add on's like pistachios , almonds, saffron, rose water etc.

The name is probably still off putting -- oh well.

I am really enjoying the read! Please keep going. We will spend time in Delhi and ,while I don't plan to buy too much, I have certainly been guilty of thinking something was too expensive, or I really didn't need it only to regret it later.

Crosscheck, thanks for continuing with your saga!!

We really appreciate this report as India is definitely on our minds as a place we have not explored.

Thanks, everyone, for sticking with this and for all the kind comments.

Marija, I appreciate the HT correction - By the time we got to Delhi, I was no longer reading my guidebook and I must have misunderstood what the hotel manager told me. Please forgive me for not fact checking. More about my misadventures at the tomb in the final installment.

Cali and Magical, I just read in the Hollywood Reporter (which gave the film a positive review and said it will be India's Oscar contender) that the character's name was actually "Murphy." But as a kid, he had pronounced it "Barfi" (presumably before he was mute - must have missed this backstory). The review says "Barfi" is the word for ice cream, so I think it does have something to do with those sweets.

Kathie, Go for the 10-year visa! As a temple/ruins/photography fanatics, I think you and Cheryl will adore our itinerary. We have Temple ADD, but spent much longer than planned everywhere - particularly Sarnath, Orchha's ruins, the Taj, Eglingi and The Red Fort. Khajuraho was much more significant than I expected, and we didn't even get to the Eastern group of structures. Would not have enjoyed these places as much with crowds, though...Maybe the south is for you, more off the beaten path with even more temples...especially because you've already visited Kolkata. (Offtopic: I saw on another thread that you had not been to South America - you must put Macchu Pichu on your list.)

Final installment coming soon, along with photos if I can get them organized.

Crosscheck, I already have the 10 year visa - but I have a new passport. AFter the holidays, I'm going to mail it to Travisa to transfer the 10 year visa into my new passport. (Macchu Pichu has been on my list for decades, but Asia keeps calling me back.)

Happy Holidays, everyone. My goal was to finish this trip report before embarking on my next vacation, but I didn't quite make it. Posting from paradise right now - Tulum, Mexico

DAY 12 – A BRUSH WITH RETAIL NIRVANA, SOME SHOULD HAVES, THEN HOMEWARD BOUND

After a lovely breakfast on our balcony, our driver arrived. The weather was glorious and at the top of our to-do list was the Toilet Museum (see discussion of Mr. C’s obsession in previous SE Asia trip report), but the manager said it was very, very far and there would be tons of traffic.

So instead of sightseeing, we decided to hit a few local stores and the “upscale” Khan market, reputed to be the favorite of the diplomats, but I doubt that this is the choice of the ambassador from France. We also had planned to go to the Hauz Khas market to check out the antiques, but that was also deemed as too distant. In retrospect, we probably could have ventured across town because it was a Saturday and the streets did not seem too congested, at least by LA standards. But now we have an excuse to return to India.

BOTTOM LINE:
Purchasing mementos and gifts with a ticking clock was nerve racking, especially when the whole time a little voice was telling me that I should have just bought every fabric in the store in Udaipur. Or one killer piece of jewelry in Gem Palace at the Amarvilas. Then we would have been out of money in Delhi and could have seen the toilets.

Here is where we went:
ANOKHI OUTLET (Nizamudden East) – a few blocks from our hotel. Could have done all our Delhi shopping here. They had hand-blocked soft cotton quilts for around $30, which I later saw at the Anokhi store for $60, and then here in LA for $300. Sadly, the folks in the shop (which doesn’t feel like an outlet, just like a small cute neighborhood store) convinced me that all the items had too may imperfections to buy as gifts. We bought just one tablecloth for ourselves, which was a megahit on Thanksgiving, and have yet to find the imperfection.

Then it was off to Khan Market – A slightly run-down bazaar/mini-mall with a little bit of local color and a few decent shops, including:
FAB INDIA – A little of everything clothing and costume jewelry-wise, sort of Urban Outfitters meets Target. Mr. C got a cool shirt and I bought a black silk kurti that I thought would work for a black tie event – wrong! (but nice).
REGULAR ANOKHI – Overwhelming, wanted many items in the store, but settled for some scarves and pillow covers.

Next stop, a nearby strip mall
FAB INDIA HOME – We had admired some dhurrie runners in our guest house and tried to buy them from the manager the way we had bought the silk fabric on our bed in Varanasi. But the manager instead directed us Anokhi Home, which is more or less the Ikea of India. Bought the only runners in the store, not as cool as the ones in the hotel, slightly too tribal. Now slightly sorry I didn’t find jewelry for the same price instead (detecting a theme?)
SOMA - Not much here, but found some fantastic sparkly cloth purses for gifts.

Then, headed back to Nizamuddin East
KASHMIR LOOM HOUSE – A truly amazing shop in a private home run by a British woman who doesn’t like to bargain. I think it’s illegal to say the word “pashmina” in the sub-continent; it is unclear whether this came to pass because consumers cried “Acrylic!” when their wraps did not pass the wedding ring test. But here you will find the best of the best of what we call pashmina - unbelievably fine shawls made from the belly of some very elite goats. The real deal. I bought three as gifts and ended up keeping two for myself. Still craving one I saw for $3500.

LUGGAGE STAND NEXT DOOR TO ANOHKI OUTLET
The only reason I was able to splurge on the above was because Mr. C went off on his own to buy a duffel bag – no carry-on for us on the return flight!

MY ENCOUNTER WITH THE ONLY RICKSHAW DRIVER IN DELHI WHO FAILED ENGLISH
Mr. C always gets anxious before traveling, so we went back to our hotel with three hours to spare before our pick-up (Thanks, Louise and B19 for the late check-out). After a shower, I decided to go to Humayun's Tomb on my own, despite the manager’s pleas to take a bicycle rickshaw.

Although the tomb looked as if it’s right next door to our hotel, the entrance was actually at least a mile or two away. When I arrived, Mr C called to say that the hotel had prepared some farewell dal for us. I rushed through the tomb’s greatest hits (wow!), then got into an autorickshaw and realized I had no business card or address for the hotel, but I called the hotel for the name of our development and mangaged to direct the driver. Apparently the manager was concerned about me and sent her own rickshaw, but I made it back with no problem, directing my guy Barfi style.

RIDE TO AIRPORT
Louise’s incredible man on the ground showed up to accompany us to the airport. He charmingly collected our feedback about the trip; the only slight negative was the Odeon experience. The rest was beyond perfect.

FLIGHT HOME: THAI TIME TRAVELING
We are usually fortunate to secure business seats with miles, but for this trip we actually purchased two one-way business tickets during a 12-hour Thai Air flash sale ($1300pp DEL-BKK-LAX, with a stop in Seoul) found via a Kayak alert; rationalized this because our BA segment had been an award ticket. This meant that we both traveled completely around the world for $2600 and we somewhat conquered jetlag by gaining back more time than we lost.

Serious trek from our arrival gate in BKK to our Royal Silk lounge, not as royal as expected. Seats on all legs of the flight were not 100% flat. But, except for our brief stop (no plane change) in Seoul and a personal screening of Brave, we both slept soundly all the way home, dreaming of our next off-season trip of a lifetime.

NEXT: WRAP UP/PHOTOS

What a lovely Christmas gift - more of your trip report! Many thanks... I may need a shopping consultation before our trip.

(I have to admit that I have been so busy since we returned from Java that I have not yet done any research on our proposed India trip. I think I probably won't get to it until we are in Kauai in March.)

Thanks for continuing. I wonder if you were admiring shahtoosh (ring) shawls which are sold to unsuspecting tourists (like we were) who don't know that possessing them is illegal in many countries, including India and the USA. The antelopes from which they are made are endangered.

Just found your shopping report. Now I can go to India.
I looked at Best Exotic Marigold Hotel again to see Judi Dench clothes. They are just what I want to buy. I hope Anokhi will supply or maybe street market. We have 4 nights Delhi at beginning of trip so should have shopping time.
We, too, loved our time in Mexico. Could not see ruins in Tulum since the crowds were too great on Dec. 30. But got a peek going up the hill marked "No trespassing". Held a giant lizard and saw the dancers on the giant pole. Loved Chichen Itza, Uximal and Coba. Now have reasons to go back.

Warm greetings crosscheck (love that aviation handle; warms this forever SIA loyalist's heart) and a belated thank you for your wondrous writing. Have spent this early Saturday Seoul morning catching up on your adventures; well done.

If I may be so bold, your writing is right up there with dogster's inimitable posts and the spirit he brought to Fodors. Just know he's proud of you. Can't tell you and all, how much I miss him; thought of the gentleman two weekends back, inside a rather busy and festive Mandarin Oriental lobby in beloved Bangkok. What a spectrum of people, one moment on one particular evening; from the few exquisite, petite and beautifully dressed women, all the way up to some questionably attired holiday makers of size. Suspect dogster would have had a succinct comment or two.

Keep up the brilliant writing crosscheck, and should you ever desire lodging/restaurant suggestions in our fine home of Singapore, would be my honour to assist. And, in keeping with your handle, suspect you already know of Singapore Airlines' cherished (and to be retired, later '13) all business class, non-stop service from your area of LAX, all the way to SIN and back: SQ 37/38. I've flown those sectors on only a few occasions for work (SFO is my main N.A. business port), and they are most efficient. I plan on one last sentimental business trip with those flights and fine crews and friends.

Other ex-LAX SIA options, you have SQ11, via those serene A380s. Can assure you, have savoured some fine SIA A380 business class flights for work on SIN-NRT and SIN-HKG sectors. (If you haven't detected my usual Singapore Airlines love by now, well, later today I have the privilege of flying SQ16 J to SFO, and after ~ five days of meetings, get to fly SQ1 J back to Hong Kong via an A380. Can't wait to fly SQ and those wondrous crews, as always.)

My very best to you, crosscheck, and all. Signing off from a sweet Saturday morning in Seoul,

macintosh (robert)


... Singapore Girl, You're a Great Way to Fly ...

Thanks so much for kind words about my writing. Never again will we be treated to the level of charisma, creativity or snarkiness that dogster brought to this forum, but we all can infuse our travels with a little of his spirit, style and serendipity.

Would love to visit Singapore (Mr. Crosscheck goes there fairly often) - and if so, will definitely hit you up for places to eat, sleep and wander.

WRAP-UP
Sorry that I abandoned this report so near the end. Now, five months after our journey, it's time to finish.

LEGAL SHAWLS
Yes, the super-high quality pashminas I brought home seem as if they could indeed fit through a wedding ring. But they come with bios of the goats who contributed, and the owner is a 'textile historian' Brit, so I'm assuming she's abiding by the law and protecting the antelope.

MYSTERIOUS ILLNESS
About a week after our return (and after we bragged to everyone about how we didn't get sick), Mr. C developed a high (103F+) fever with no other symptoms. He was tested for malaria, dengue, etc. etc. The tests were negative, and our doctor theorized that Mr. C had probably contracted a flu or virus, something that wasn't going around here. The doc prescribed Tamiflu and before I had a chance to worry excessively about hantavirus or avian mutations, Mr. C recovered.

Since then, when we gush about the trip, we don't mention how healthy we were.

CREATIVITY/SPIRITUALITY/THE DARK SIDE
Just the way the fever was a reality check of sorts, so was Beyond the Beautiful Forevers, the non-fiction book about the Mumbai slums, that I finished upon my return. Then came the gang rape in Delhi, which made me very angry at a country with all those 'nice' people - How can such misogyny, violence and classicism exist in a such an extraordinary place?

But India has stayed with me and helped me see the world in a new way. It wasn't just a vacation, it was a foray into a different dimension and I feel as if I must go back to see and discover more.

--

I'm about to go on a tamer (Parisian) trip, but will link to photos when I return.

Thanks for finishing, crosscheck. This was a wonderful read! Enjoy Paris.

"But India has stayed with me and helped me see the world in a new way. It wasn't just a vacation, it was a foray into a different dimension and I feel as if I must go back to see and discover more."

I feel exactly the same way. Thank you for writing such a wonderful trip report!

Paule

thank you, crosscheck, for this wonderful report! I'm reading trs of India like crazy because we are just now beginning to plan a 7 week trip this Jan/ Feb. We are late I know. Your engaging account of your amzing experiences has really got me psyched now!

Also, did you ever post a link to those pictures?

Just bought our airline tickets for India in Feb. We are using Elainee's TA, and will do Rajasthan and Kerala. 23 days on the ground, starting in Delhi and ending in Mumbai. I hope to clear up a chronic problem with B of A by visiting a a phone center.......

LOVED your report. We contemplated Varanasi, but decided to skip it as we would sort of fly in and out and it just didn't seem right to me. I am beginning to see that like Africa, this may not be the trip of a lifetime, but just the first of several....

Thanks for the kind words. So envious that you're both going, and for so long. Thanks for the photo reminder - I'll get on it.

Crosscheck

I'm going to have to read your accounts tonight with my wife. They sound amazing thus far.

The three of us (me, my wife and 22 yr old daughter) will be going. I was born in India, left at age of 1, and have never been back. 55 years is long enough I suppose . It's actually my daughter who is pushing the agenda, along with my wife. Reading your accounts is making me feel better about going. My biggest hangups are sitting in an airplane so long and getting sick there.

I hope you don't mind if I pick your brains once we have an itinerary established.