SusanP

I’m looking for a little information for my trip to Thailand in November. I’m a long-time Fodorite, not active the last few years, but before that active on the Europe board since around 1991. I’ve travelled solo extensively in Italy, Paris & Ireland but decided to take a tour for Thailand – Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Sukhothai, Chiang Rai & Chiang Mai. I might be looking for suggestions for my free time, but at this point, just a couple of things I’m wondering:
How much cash do I need to carry around? I’m assuming street food, buying bottled water and shopping at markets will be cash? (I realize shopping money depends on how much shopping I’m doing! I do like to shop.)
Dinner suggestions for Bangkok, Chiang Rai & Chiang Mai – looking for the most authentic Thai food I can get!
Kathie – could you give me an idea of costs for jewelry at SJ International? I don’t have something specific in mind, would probably be most interested in a ring or earrings – are we talking many hundreds of dollars? I imagine there is a big range, but just trying to get an idea. I might be shopping for my Dad for a gift for him to give my Mom for their 70th Anniversary but won’t be looking for something that costs a fortune.
I’m sure I’ll be back with more questions when I've had time to read more about what to do in my free time. Thanks!

Kathie

Let me answer your jewelry question. SJ does carry jewelry in a broad range of prices. The best deals are on Thai sapphires. A nice pair of earrings or a ring or a pendant you should be able to get for half (or less) of the US price. So if Dad is willing to pay, say, $200, he can get something lovely.

I'm sorry you felt the need to book a tour. I hope you have hotels that are nice and centrally located as that is often a problem on tours. And I'm guessing you are getting place to place via a bus, so you will have lots of time on the bus with that itinerary.

Other than opener markets and such, nearly everywhere accepts credit cards. Be cautious with street food, make sure it is hot and make sure you have cleaned your own hands before eating.

Some restaurant recs in Bangkok: Lana Thai at Face see www.facebars.com and click on Bangkok, The Blue Elephant, Harmonique... A couple that are on my list for this year are Bo.lan and Nahm. If you are interested in molecular cuisine, Gaggan is a fabulous experience (I'll be going back ago this year). The chef trained at Il Bulli.

SusanP

Thanks, Kathie. The more I read, I probably could have done it on my own, but at this point I'm committed. Maybe I'll end up going back on my own. That $ range is fine for the jewelry, Dad won't mind that amount at all. And since sapphire is my birthstone, I might have to get something myself, too! I'll look into those restaurants. Thanks. As I mentioned, I'll probably be back for more info.

PhiMeow

>Dinner suggestions for Bangkok, Chiang Rai & Chiang Mai – looking for the most authentic Thai food I can get!

As Kathie said the most authentic Thai food is often at markets and street carts. The general cleanliness of street food carts have improved significantly over the past decade with better hygienic practices so is safe but take note of Kathie's comment. However, don't forget to check out food courts in shopping Malls - that is where local office workers also eat (price range from 35baht+ per dish). As for restaurant recommendations here is my all time fave high end restaurant in Bangkok.

Spice Market in Anantara Siam Hotel (was the Four Seasons Hotel). Famous for traditional Thai dishes that are now very hard to find e.g. Gaeng Som Cha Om Thord (sour curry with acacia fronds) and Khao Hohm Kayakoo dessert. Price $$$$

Cash - ATMs are everywhere. Withdrawal cost about 180baht per transaction so get enough for a few days in a single transaction if you can (for food/drink/small time shopping)

Have a great time.

SusanP

Thank you, PhiMeow. I probably wouldn't have thought to check out shopping malls for restaurants, so that's good to know. I looked at the menu for Spice Market - looks good! While I wouldn't want to spend quite that much every night, it would be a nice splurge. I notice that is says there will be a 10% service charge plus government tax. Can you tell me what percentage the government tax is? And does everyplace charge a service charge in lieu of tipping?

rhkkmk

don't carry too much cash around with you---it's safe there but it is not a good practice.. i withdraw $300-500 from ATM's and leave most of it in my hotel safe..

don't buy any, but cheap jewelry, on the street---some of it is just plain fun and whacky.

we love harmonique for yellow crab curry, pad se yu, fried morning glory vines with garlic... very reasonable. it is located on a soi near the river between the oriental and sheraton orchid hotels.

the loft in central chitlom dept. store is a good high end "cafeteria style" rest.

gaggan prices are outrageous, but it is the most unique eating experience you will ever have.. have the tasting menu.

face is a really great place.

5* hotels all have fabulous buffets, and on sunday even more fab...

don't buy jewels at the horrid shops your tour will take you to, but observe their prices.

don't waste your time on the weekend market in BKK, save that for the sunday mkt in chiang mai.

my wife loves platinum fashion mall--a must shop... better than famous MBK.

SusanP

Thanks, rhkkmk, sounds like a lot of good tips. I do realize not to assume cheap jewelry on the street is the real thing. Unfortunately, I won't be in Chiang Mai on a Sunday. I have a money belt for extra cash so I'm not carrying too much in my purse. Yellow crab curry sounds so good...

PhiMeow

>I notice that is says there will be a 10% service charge plus government tax. Can you tell me what percentage the government tax is? And does everyplace charge a service charge in lieu of tipping?

By law, all shops (not the street vendors or markets) charge 10% service fee plus 7% VAT (tax) - so 17% all up. Some places have additional provincial or tourist tax of 1% - ugg.

Tipping, over and above the 17% service charge and tax, is always appreciated given that wages are comparatively lower than western countries (minimum wage is 300 baht per day e.g. daily labourer's rate). I normally round up taxi fees to the next 10 or 20 baht, at restaurants I still tip if the food and service is good - I won't say how much as this is up to you. No need to tip fast food restaurants or street carts/stalls.

SusanP

Thanks, PhiMeow. Similar to Europe, except there the VAT is already included in the price you see on the menu or on an item in the store. Good to know I need to add it here.

AskOksona

A law for service charge?

SusanP

Bo.lan is interesting, but what on earth does "course-prohibited" mean? I even googled it and didn't come up with anything. Does it have to do with the fact that they have set menus?

Kathie

"By law, all shops (not the street vendors or markets) charge 10% service fee plus 7% VAT (tax) - so 17% all up. "

There is no law about the service charge. You'll see the full 17% added to hotel bills. I can't say that I've seen it on restaurant bills, though it may be that high-end places (and places in hotels) do add it. We need a local to remind us about this!

Belinda

A suggestion I would make for your free time in Bangkok would be a cooking school. We went to the Baipai Thai School. It is a great way to understand the flavor nuances of authentic Thai cooking and work with local ingredients, some of which you'll fetch from the garden yourself. It was one of the highlights of my time in Bangkok.

SusanP

Belinda, that is exactly something I'm looking into. I have enjoyed numerous cooking classes on my trips and would love to take one. I'm figuring out if I can fit it in when I have free time. I'll check out Baipai. Thanks!

Kathie

In Bangkok, The Blue Elephant has a cooking class that gets great reviews. Note that the Mandarin Oriental Hotel has cooking classes, but they are a week long... probably not what you are looking for.

PhiMeow

Apologies for giving the wrong info.

VAT is collected by law (currently 10% but special compensation by current and previous gov't to collect the discounted rate of 7%).

Service charge is not law but is routinely collected by the establishment - supposedly shared to workers at end of month. Reports are split whether this actually happens or no

SusanP

Kathie, thanks, The Blue Elephant is on my list. A week-long class is definitely too long!

kapesq

@SusanP The answer I found on Twitter about "course-prohibited" dining is this: "@MrMeMock @JohnLethlean it means we serve the food all together with rice. We won't serve individual dishes for the main course separately."
So I guess it means that the food is not served in courses it is all served together.

SusanP

Thanks, kapesq. I had never heard that term.