Tasting Sri Lanka
Oct 23rd, 2017, 10:41 PM
#61
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A small clarification Sartoric,are Kandalama Residence & Heritance Kandalama the same or two different properties?
Srilanka sure has some spectacular properties.Geoffrey's creations are very unique,one boutique property which impressed was The Last House, Tangalle.
http://www.thelasthouse.com/
Jetwing Lighthouse, Galle surprisingly does not have good reviews.Wonder why.
Not sure if i'm late with this info again,I was told about The Empire Cafe in Kandy next to the Tooth Temple.The Srilankan fare is said to be good.
The Grizzled Giant Squirrel is what you saw,it is also found in South Indian riparian forests.Another close relative,but much bigger is the Malabar Giant Squirrel or the Indian Giant Squirrel.Looks a supersized rodent on steroids.
Can understand your plight,it sure must have been Chinese torture.
Srilanka sure has some spectacular properties.Geoffrey's creations are very unique,one boutique property which impressed was The Last House, Tangalle.
http://www.thelasthouse.com/
Jetwing Lighthouse, Galle surprisingly does not have good reviews.Wonder why.
Not sure if i'm late with this info again,I was told about The Empire Cafe in Kandy next to the Tooth Temple.The Srilankan fare is said to be good.
The Grizzled Giant Squirrel is what you saw,it is also found in South Indian riparian forests.Another close relative,but much bigger is the Malabar Giant Squirrel or the Indian Giant Squirrel.Looks a supersized rodent on steroids.
Can understand your plight,it sure must have been Chinese torture.
Oct 24th, 2017, 03:52 AM
#62
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JW, FNQ is an abbreviation of the region - Far North Queensland (we Aussies do like to abbreviate) there are a few different producers, google will know them. Hoppers are a fermented rice flour and coconut milk pancake like thing cooked in a special hopper pan to make a bowl shape. An egg is cooked in the bottom for egg hoppers, without the egg they’re coconut hoppers. You’re probably right about the new found wealthy Chinese, I hate to generalise and have Chinese friends who are lovely, but this was our experience.
Inquest, my bad for getting the name wrong, it is Heritance Kandalama designed by GB. We hope to get to his country estate Luanaganga. Grizzled Giant, love it !
Sigiriya to Kandy via Dambulla cave temple.
Breakfast this morning at Lakmini Lodge consisted of so many dishes we had to move to a larger table. There were piles of string hoppers, chicken curry, potato curry, green bean curry, coconut sambal, two fried eggs each, a bunch of spring onion roti and a fresh fruit platter.
We said goodbye to Lakmini Lodge after the owner took me by tuk tuk to the nearest ATM so I could settle our bill. So far, only one of our accommodation places has taken credit cards. M wanted a shave, Dilee knew a guy, so we stopped down the road for a shave by cut throat razor. Job done, M looks 10 years younger and it cost 200 rupees. Why isn’t there some option like that for women ?
We head out on dirt roads to a peaceful lakeside spot with a different view of Pidurangala and Sigiriya rock. There are tree houses here, set up high on stilts so farmers can keep watch over the crops and protect them from marauding elephants. The height gives the farmers a chance to spot eles before they get close enough to do damage. Large firecrackers are set off to dissuade the animals. So that’s what all the night time explosions are...
Dambulla has the largest wholesale fruit and veggie market in Sri Lanka. Three giant tin roofed bays lined with traders shops, hundreds of trucks lining up for loading/unloading, giant 40 kilo sacks being carried on the backs of gaunt men, piles of produce awaiting sale, it’s fascinating. We wander, trying to not get in the way, and are beguiled by the friendliness of these men just going about their daily business. Look questioningly at a product for a few minutes, get to try it. Those large green olives are actually tiny avocados.
The Buddhist museum is very skippable, lightly air conditioned and poorly signed. The cave temple is worth seeing, 300 or so steep uneven stone steps notwithstanding.
We stopped at the resort of another of Dilee’s mates for a beer and a snack, nice grounds, cold beer, and a small collection of vintage cars. There was another temple stop, 12th century, small but in good condition surrounded by lake. I call this temple of dog, because dogs were the only other visitors and I can’t remember the name.
Kandy is chaotic, but so very pretty with it’s mountainous topography.
The Bee View homestay is 2.5 km uphill from the main street. There’s only two rooms to let, but they are modern, large and comfortable with a small balcony overlooking the hills. Dinner here cost 900 rupees per person providing a generous spread of chicken curry, green beans curry, potato curry, snake gourd curry (bitter gourd where are you), pappads, chopped salad and rice.
We heard a tree fall in the distance, a REALLY loud crash. This is when we find out the opposite hillside is a forest conservation area. ‘Twas a peaceful evening listening to the sounds of the forest, inhaling the fresh mountain air and gazing at the twinkling starry night sky.
Inquest, my bad for getting the name wrong, it is Heritance Kandalama designed by GB. We hope to get to his country estate Luanaganga. Grizzled Giant, love it !
Sigiriya to Kandy via Dambulla cave temple.
Breakfast this morning at Lakmini Lodge consisted of so many dishes we had to move to a larger table. There were piles of string hoppers, chicken curry, potato curry, green bean curry, coconut sambal, two fried eggs each, a bunch of spring onion roti and a fresh fruit platter.
We said goodbye to Lakmini Lodge after the owner took me by tuk tuk to the nearest ATM so I could settle our bill. So far, only one of our accommodation places has taken credit cards. M wanted a shave, Dilee knew a guy, so we stopped down the road for a shave by cut throat razor. Job done, M looks 10 years younger and it cost 200 rupees. Why isn’t there some option like that for women ?
We head out on dirt roads to a peaceful lakeside spot with a different view of Pidurangala and Sigiriya rock. There are tree houses here, set up high on stilts so farmers can keep watch over the crops and protect them from marauding elephants. The height gives the farmers a chance to spot eles before they get close enough to do damage. Large firecrackers are set off to dissuade the animals. So that’s what all the night time explosions are...
Dambulla has the largest wholesale fruit and veggie market in Sri Lanka. Three giant tin roofed bays lined with traders shops, hundreds of trucks lining up for loading/unloading, giant 40 kilo sacks being carried on the backs of gaunt men, piles of produce awaiting sale, it’s fascinating. We wander, trying to not get in the way, and are beguiled by the friendliness of these men just going about their daily business. Look questioningly at a product for a few minutes, get to try it. Those large green olives are actually tiny avocados.
The Buddhist museum is very skippable, lightly air conditioned and poorly signed. The cave temple is worth seeing, 300 or so steep uneven stone steps notwithstanding.
We stopped at the resort of another of Dilee’s mates for a beer and a snack, nice grounds, cold beer, and a small collection of vintage cars. There was another temple stop, 12th century, small but in good condition surrounded by lake. I call this temple of dog, because dogs were the only other visitors and I can’t remember the name.
Kandy is chaotic, but so very pretty with it’s mountainous topography.
The Bee View homestay is 2.5 km uphill from the main street. There’s only two rooms to let, but they are modern, large and comfortable with a small balcony overlooking the hills. Dinner here cost 900 rupees per person providing a generous spread of chicken curry, green beans curry, potato curry, snake gourd curry (bitter gourd where are you), pappads, chopped salad and rice.
We heard a tree fall in the distance, a REALLY loud crash. This is when we find out the opposite hillside is a forest conservation area. ‘Twas a peaceful evening listening to the sounds of the forest, inhaling the fresh mountain air and gazing at the twinkling starry night sky.
Oct 24th, 2017, 04:15 AM
#63
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Thank you. I too don't like to paint all with one stroke from the same brush though the person doing the documentary, Lisa Ling is herself Chinese.
Oh well back to the subject.
The meals sound very good. I love home made ethnic food.
BTW is the beer local? How was it? I do like to try the local brews whenever possible.
Oh well back to the subject.
The meals sound very good. I love home made ethnic food.
BTW is the beer local? How was it? I do like to try the local brews whenever possible.
Oct 24th, 2017, 06:13 PM
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Still following and learning a lot, Sartoric. Plus the coffee and tea talk!
To repeat--thank you for posting from the road. I admire you!
At the end of a long travel day, much as I wanted to, the keyboard energy just wasnt there!!!
To repeat--thank you for posting from the road. I admire you!
At the end of a long travel day, much as I wanted to, the keyboard energy just wasnt there!!!
Oct 25th, 2017, 06:01 AM
#66
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Having spent time in both Sri Lanka and Darjeeling, I much preferred Sri Lankan tea. We brought a lot home with us and were eventually able to find a way to get it here in the US.
One of the things we loved at the Kandalama was "avocado juice." It isn't something I would have thought to order, but our driver recommended it - marvelous!
We also stayed a a tiny boutique hotel which was the former residence of a minister for the last King of Kandy. The remodel was done by a student/associate of Geoffrey Bawa and it was lovely.
Loving your report, Sartoric, and looking forward to more.
One of the things we loved at the Kandalama was "avocado juice." It isn't something I would have thought to order, but our driver recommended it - marvelous!
We also stayed a a tiny boutique hotel which was the former residence of a minister for the last King of Kandy. The remodel was done by a student/associate of Geoffrey Bawa and it was lovely.
Loving your report, Sartoric, and looking forward to more.
Oct 25th, 2017, 06:02 AM
#67
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JW, yes the beer is brewed here, Lion Lager is quite good. They make a stout as well, to my mind stout is a cold weather drink, so we haven’t tried it. Anchor beer is another we’ve tried, prefer Lion, and they have great artwork on the can.
Coming up TP....two out of three ain’t bad.
Thanks CaliNurse, a lot of the words pop into my head during the drive/day. It’s easy for me to bang it out on the iPad when we stop.
Kandy and meeting the family.
Breakfast at Bee View is western, albeit with a good masala omelette, toast and jam, fresh fruit and juice, plus tea.
Dressed in our best white gear we head to the Temple of the Tooth for the morning puja. Dilee suggested we hire a guide and found Sanjin for us for 1500 rupees. Entry fee is 1500 pp and comes with a souvenir CD. While Dilee came in with us, he is not licensed to explain any of the features or history, hence the guide. It’s Sunday, it’s crowded with people, many Sri Lankan, many foreign. I enjoyed the jostle for position with gentle crowds, inhaling the coconut perfumed hair of local women, M not so much. But hey, we caught a glimpse of the gold box containing said tooth relic, and took lots of crowd shots. The red and white clad musicians happily smiled for photos while playing.
After, we enjoyed an iced latte at Oakray cafe while hearing stories from the owner (another friend of Dilee). It’s housed in a well preserved colonial building, with many original features and sympathetic decor. We were then set loose to wander Kandy town, grabbing a quick shoe repair (glue came unstuck on his sandal, now stitched back together for 150 rupees) a cold beer at the beautiful colonial era Queens Hotel and lunch at Balaji Dosai. The dosa were delicious, one with cheese, one with potato and both with sambar and coconut chutney.
So we met back up with Dilee and sought out Helgas Folly way up in the hills. It’s a bizarre, quirky hotel where the owner offers free accommodation to artists in exchange for even more decoration. Indeed a young woman was painting deer on the windows while we were there. The place is stuffed to the gills with antiques and artwork, feature mosaic walls, interesting memorabilia- all a feast for the eyes. Dilee didn’t know about this place, and he’s a local Kandy guy. He was impressed, I suspect this place will go on his list of suggestions for future tours.
Next we drive to the medieval Gadaladeniya temple, perhaps 30 minutes out of town. The temple is scaffolded, but interesting, built on a natural granite base with many pools hosting living fish and lotus. From here we headed through rice paddies interspersed with jungle and houses to Lankatilake temple. It’s raining now, the long approach is a slippery natural granite slab street with shops selling kitchen equipment, souvenirs, temple offerings and other things. M wears glasses and doesn’t want to remove his cap, so I go in alone and marvel at this 14th century Buddhist temple. The carvings and painted ceiling in the image house are beautiful, my fellow visitors are a few Sri Lankan families going about their worship.
Tonight we have been invited by Dilee to meet his family and share dinner. He had previously told us he lived in a small room with his wife. Arriving at the house I express surprise at the beautiful bungalow set behind a manicured lawn. “This is not my house madam, this is my mother in laws house”. Nevertheless, he lives there in his small, “shared with wife” room, and has the run of the place. All about definition I guess.
MIL is warm and inviting, as is wife Nilu, both speak English and we chat easily. Dinner is pork curry made with roasted ground rice and coconut, potato and mushroom curry, chicken devil (spicy chicken with onions and tomato) a biryani style dish made with chopped string hoppers instead of rice, and a salad similar to coleslaw but better. The traditional way in Sri Lanka is for elders/guests to eat first, so the table is set for three (MIL, me and M) we gradually convince Dilee to join in, then Nilu. We feel very honoured, and the food was delicious.
Coming up TP....two out of three ain’t bad.
Thanks CaliNurse, a lot of the words pop into my head during the drive/day. It’s easy for me to bang it out on the iPad when we stop.
Kandy and meeting the family.
Breakfast at Bee View is western, albeit with a good masala omelette, toast and jam, fresh fruit and juice, plus tea.
Dressed in our best white gear we head to the Temple of the Tooth for the morning puja. Dilee suggested we hire a guide and found Sanjin for us for 1500 rupees. Entry fee is 1500 pp and comes with a souvenir CD. While Dilee came in with us, he is not licensed to explain any of the features or history, hence the guide. It’s Sunday, it’s crowded with people, many Sri Lankan, many foreign. I enjoyed the jostle for position with gentle crowds, inhaling the coconut perfumed hair of local women, M not so much. But hey, we caught a glimpse of the gold box containing said tooth relic, and took lots of crowd shots. The red and white clad musicians happily smiled for photos while playing.
After, we enjoyed an iced latte at Oakray cafe while hearing stories from the owner (another friend of Dilee). It’s housed in a well preserved colonial building, with many original features and sympathetic decor. We were then set loose to wander Kandy town, grabbing a quick shoe repair (glue came unstuck on his sandal, now stitched back together for 150 rupees) a cold beer at the beautiful colonial era Queens Hotel and lunch at Balaji Dosai. The dosa were delicious, one with cheese, one with potato and both with sambar and coconut chutney.
So we met back up with Dilee and sought out Helgas Folly way up in the hills. It’s a bizarre, quirky hotel where the owner offers free accommodation to artists in exchange for even more decoration. Indeed a young woman was painting deer on the windows while we were there. The place is stuffed to the gills with antiques and artwork, feature mosaic walls, interesting memorabilia- all a feast for the eyes. Dilee didn’t know about this place, and he’s a local Kandy guy. He was impressed, I suspect this place will go on his list of suggestions for future tours.
Next we drive to the medieval Gadaladeniya temple, perhaps 30 minutes out of town. The temple is scaffolded, but interesting, built on a natural granite base with many pools hosting living fish and lotus. From here we headed through rice paddies interspersed with jungle and houses to Lankatilake temple. It’s raining now, the long approach is a slippery natural granite slab street with shops selling kitchen equipment, souvenirs, temple offerings and other things. M wears glasses and doesn’t want to remove his cap, so I go in alone and marvel at this 14th century Buddhist temple. The carvings and painted ceiling in the image house are beautiful, my fellow visitors are a few Sri Lankan families going about their worship.
Tonight we have been invited by Dilee to meet his family and share dinner. He had previously told us he lived in a small room with his wife. Arriving at the house I express surprise at the beautiful bungalow set behind a manicured lawn. “This is not my house madam, this is my mother in laws house”. Nevertheless, he lives there in his small, “shared with wife” room, and has the run of the place. All about definition I guess.
MIL is warm and inviting, as is wife Nilu, both speak English and we chat easily. Dinner is pork curry made with roasted ground rice and coconut, potato and mushroom curry, chicken devil (spicy chicken with onions and tomato) a biryani style dish made with chopped string hoppers instead of rice, and a salad similar to coleslaw but better. The traditional way in Sri Lanka is for elders/guests to eat first, so the table is set for three (MIL, me and M) we gradually convince Dilee to join in, then Nilu. We feel very honoured, and the food was delicious.
Oct 26th, 2017, 12:25 AM
#68
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Srilankans are very hospitable and take pride in inviting people to their homes,however modest they may be. Its taken seriously, too,possibly to an extent of offending the host if you decline.
Glad you accepted it had wonderful time with the family.That meal with them would have been an authentic Lankan fare.It can't get better than that.
I'm not sure where you are staying in Galle,but invariably you'll be visiting the Galle Fort area for sure.Rent a bicycle and explore the area.The narrow paved streets and the little houses. Galle is famous for its seafood.One of the suggested things to do in Galle is to visit the fish market which is very close to the fort entrance.
By now you must be knowing your rice and sambol well, may I recommend a few nice places to wine and dine in Galle.
A relaxed drink before a meal,Taphouse RnR in the fortress,offers nice cocktails make with 'Arak' a local lankan spirit and of course the beers.
A Minute by Tuk Tuk,is a wonderful restaurant to have a meal in and it close to the Taphouse.Its by the Dutch Hospital shopping complex.
https://www.facebook.com/aminutebytuktuk
Another little place that comes to mind is Coconut Sambol,68 Church Street.Authentic Lankan buffet spread served in Claypots.
https://www.facebook.com/coconutsamboll/
A little hole in the wall called Spoons, 100 Pedler Street, Galle is a great place for a meal.Call to make a booking if you plan to go there as there re very few tables.
https://www.facebook.com/Spoons-555602247885156/
Bon Appetit.
Glad you accepted it had wonderful time with the family.That meal with them would have been an authentic Lankan fare.It can't get better than that.
I'm not sure where you are staying in Galle,but invariably you'll be visiting the Galle Fort area for sure.Rent a bicycle and explore the area.The narrow paved streets and the little houses. Galle is famous for its seafood.One of the suggested things to do in Galle is to visit the fish market which is very close to the fort entrance.
By now you must be knowing your rice and sambol well, may I recommend a few nice places to wine and dine in Galle.
A relaxed drink before a meal,Taphouse RnR in the fortress,offers nice cocktails make with 'Arak' a local lankan spirit and of course the beers.
A Minute by Tuk Tuk,is a wonderful restaurant to have a meal in and it close to the Taphouse.Its by the Dutch Hospital shopping complex.
https://www.facebook.com/aminutebytuktuk
Another little place that comes to mind is Coconut Sambol,68 Church Street.Authentic Lankan buffet spread served in Claypots.
https://www.facebook.com/coconutsamboll/
A little hole in the wall called Spoons, 100 Pedler Street, Galle is a great place for a meal.Call to make a booking if you plan to go there as there re very few tables.
https://www.facebook.com/Spoons-555602247885156/
Bon Appetit.
Oct 26th, 2017, 01:27 AM
#69
Lovely, sartoric! I am enjoying your trip enormously and, once again, love the connections you make on your travels, this time with Dilee and his family. I really get a feeling of being on the trip with you, too - your descriptions are so atmospheric.
Oh, and I can't agree more with CaliNurse - at the end of the day, I can't imagine writing up the day's travels and posting! So thank you for doing this
Looking forward to more!
Oh, and I can't agree more with CaliNurse - at the end of the day, I can't imagine writing up the day's travels and posting! So thank you for doing this
Looking forward to more!
Oct 26th, 2017, 06:20 AM
#72
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Oh, inquest, thank you once again. We’ve just had a fabulous meal at One Minute by Tuk Tuk, the best chicken so far in SL. I have a story connected to Spoons, all will be revealed in good time.
You’re welcome Progol and JW, glad you’re enjoying my waffle.
Kandy to Ella and a train opportunity derailed.
Brekkie is a repeat of yesterday (still good), and off we head for Nuwara Eliya. We pass through Perideniya an outer suburb of Kandy with the botanical gardens, a government university campus and many ancient and beautiful trees. It’s green, leafy, cool, and visually stunning with the mountains as a continuous backdrop.
It takes about 3 hours to reach little England (as Nuwara Eliya is known) including a few stops at viewpoints and one for tea. The temperature drops by several degrees here at 1000 m above sea level. There’s many well preserved colonial buildings including the red brick with white grout post office, it appears to be pink from a distance.
Lunch will be our last meal with Dilee, we choose the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club, another colonial relic. It’s very English and quite quaint. The ladies rest room is as big as a house, with individual stalls for toilets, showers, and hand basins complete with white wicker chairs, (just in case you need to sit down after a strenuous hand wash), a lounge area with velvet brocade sofas, chintz curtains and old framed photos of past players on the walls. We sat on the wide veranda overlooking the fairway and shared a beer before finding out that rice and curry is finished for the day. It’s only 12.15, we don’t understand. None of us wanted western food, so we pulled up stumps and went back into town to Milano’s a local curry joint. The guys had rice and curry with chicken (a bright red tandoori piece), I stuck to veg. On a mound of rice sat dal curry, to the side manioc (a type of root vegetable similar to yam), okra curry, leaves curry and in the centre of the table spicy gravy and Maldive fish sambal. With a few pappads each and a big water to share this was filling and tasty.
We checked out the Grand Hotel, built by the British in 1891, and very true to its name. So many gorgeous public spaces, some with personal fireplaces, period furniture, large chandeliers, even a mirrored ceiling. It’s set in manicured gardens complete with towering old trees and pretty flower beds. Worth a look, and the beer was cold
I had bought two seats on the 3 pm train leaving Nanaoyu, from there it’s a 2.5 hour ride to Ella. At the station we discovered the train is delayed by an hour. It’s cold and already getting dark. What to do ? We could wait at the station for our train and arrive in Ella after dark, or take Dilee’s offer to drive us the 2 hours to Ella. We took up the Dilee offer and cruised through glorious scenery, stopping for tea and sweets at his favourite roadside stall.
He dropped us at the tuk tuk rank in the main street, as it was not wise to attempt the steep climb up the hill to Mount Blue View Guesthouse in his car. It was indeed a steep and bumpy ride on a partly made single lane road to the top. Dilee was great, we’ll stay in touch. Amid handshakes and hugs, saying safe journey all round, we parted.
Arriving at Mount Blue View I realised in the gambling crapshoot that is booking ahead, I’d once again rolled a four. I have no idea whether four is a good or bad roll in craps, for the purposes of this story, take it as fairly bad, but not bad enough to leave like Sudu Nelum. The tuk tuk driver dropped us off on a concrete slab complete with rheo sticking out in readiness for the next storey. Mount Blue View Guesthouse was a work in progress. A steep concrete stairway led down to two floors of accommodation, our room was on the upper of the two floors. The views of Ella gap were superb from the chairs on our balcony, we saw what should have been our train wind through the hills into town. The view was a saving grace for this guesthouse, the room was just okay, there was no hot water, perhaps because they’d positioned the solar heater in the shadow of the tanks....seriously folks.
Our Guesthouse guy called a tuk tuk to take us down the treacherous dark road into town to eat. We didn’t want a large meal, and have sometimes struggled to find a Sri Lankan snack at dinner time. Rice and curry is huge for me, I can’t eat two in a day. We’re in backpacker city here though, with many eating options. Chill Café was recommended by Dilee, had some fantastic innovative Sri Lankan menu items, but tonight we settled for a pizza. It hit the spot.
You’re welcome Progol and JW, glad you’re enjoying my waffle.
Kandy to Ella and a train opportunity derailed.
Brekkie is a repeat of yesterday (still good), and off we head for Nuwara Eliya. We pass through Perideniya an outer suburb of Kandy with the botanical gardens, a government university campus and many ancient and beautiful trees. It’s green, leafy, cool, and visually stunning with the mountains as a continuous backdrop.
It takes about 3 hours to reach little England (as Nuwara Eliya is known) including a few stops at viewpoints and one for tea. The temperature drops by several degrees here at 1000 m above sea level. There’s many well preserved colonial buildings including the red brick with white grout post office, it appears to be pink from a distance.
Lunch will be our last meal with Dilee, we choose the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club, another colonial relic. It’s very English and quite quaint. The ladies rest room is as big as a house, with individual stalls for toilets, showers, and hand basins complete with white wicker chairs, (just in case you need to sit down after a strenuous hand wash), a lounge area with velvet brocade sofas, chintz curtains and old framed photos of past players on the walls. We sat on the wide veranda overlooking the fairway and shared a beer before finding out that rice and curry is finished for the day. It’s only 12.15, we don’t understand. None of us wanted western food, so we pulled up stumps and went back into town to Milano’s a local curry joint. The guys had rice and curry with chicken (a bright red tandoori piece), I stuck to veg. On a mound of rice sat dal curry, to the side manioc (a type of root vegetable similar to yam), okra curry, leaves curry and in the centre of the table spicy gravy and Maldive fish sambal. With a few pappads each and a big water to share this was filling and tasty.
We checked out the Grand Hotel, built by the British in 1891, and very true to its name. So many gorgeous public spaces, some with personal fireplaces, period furniture, large chandeliers, even a mirrored ceiling. It’s set in manicured gardens complete with towering old trees and pretty flower beds. Worth a look, and the beer was cold
I had bought two seats on the 3 pm train leaving Nanaoyu, from there it’s a 2.5 hour ride to Ella. At the station we discovered the train is delayed by an hour. It’s cold and already getting dark. What to do ? We could wait at the station for our train and arrive in Ella after dark, or take Dilee’s offer to drive us the 2 hours to Ella. We took up the Dilee offer and cruised through glorious scenery, stopping for tea and sweets at his favourite roadside stall.
He dropped us at the tuk tuk rank in the main street, as it was not wise to attempt the steep climb up the hill to Mount Blue View Guesthouse in his car. It was indeed a steep and bumpy ride on a partly made single lane road to the top. Dilee was great, we’ll stay in touch. Amid handshakes and hugs, saying safe journey all round, we parted.
Arriving at Mount Blue View I realised in the gambling crapshoot that is booking ahead, I’d once again rolled a four. I have no idea whether four is a good or bad roll in craps, for the purposes of this story, take it as fairly bad, but not bad enough to leave like Sudu Nelum. The tuk tuk driver dropped us off on a concrete slab complete with rheo sticking out in readiness for the next storey. Mount Blue View Guesthouse was a work in progress. A steep concrete stairway led down to two floors of accommodation, our room was on the upper of the two floors. The views of Ella gap were superb from the chairs on our balcony, we saw what should have been our train wind through the hills into town. The view was a saving grace for this guesthouse, the room was just okay, there was no hot water, perhaps because they’d positioned the solar heater in the shadow of the tanks....seriously folks.
Our Guesthouse guy called a tuk tuk to take us down the treacherous dark road into town to eat. We didn’t want a large meal, and have sometimes struggled to find a Sri Lankan snack at dinner time. Rice and curry is huge for me, I can’t eat two in a day. We’re in backpacker city here though, with many eating options. Chill Café was recommended by Dilee, had some fantastic innovative Sri Lankan menu items, but tonight we settled for a pizza. It hit the spot.
Oct 26th, 2017, 07:37 AM
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Sorry you didn't get to ride the rails through Tea Country. Now that you've made it to this part of the island, I hope you feel relaxed and have some time to take it more slowly and unwind among the scenery. Looking forward to more.
Oct 26th, 2017, 10:49 PM
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Very articulate and eloquent description.Your detailing is enjoyable.Literally feel like journeying thru Lanka.Keep it coming and thanks for you incredible effort.
Wonder why the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club ran out of rice and curry !! Weren't there enough people(golfers),or probably a week day where there is less demand on the kitchen.Either way it was unfortunate they couldn't serve you lunch.I should have probably asked you to call them before hand.
I was there 15 yrs ago.The lunch was after a round of golf in the morning.Finished by 11am,a few beers and a hearty lunch.It was a Sunday and the clubhouse was pretty crowded.
Another thing about rice and curry is the its very filling immediately after a meal,but in a couple of hrs you are still hungry.Unlike in the case of wheat(rotis/breads).Guess it helps to break the monotony with a nice large oven fired Pizza.
Suppose you are enjoying Galle.Ah ! A meal at A Minute by Tuk Tuk. Glad you like it.Looking forward....for more.
Wonder why the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club ran out of rice and curry !! Weren't there enough people(golfers),or probably a week day where there is less demand on the kitchen.Either way it was unfortunate they couldn't serve you lunch.I should have probably asked you to call them before hand.
I was there 15 yrs ago.The lunch was after a round of golf in the morning.Finished by 11am,a few beers and a hearty lunch.It was a Sunday and the clubhouse was pretty crowded.
Another thing about rice and curry is the its very filling immediately after a meal,but in a couple of hrs you are still hungry.Unlike in the case of wheat(rotis/breads).Guess it helps to break the monotony with a nice large oven fired Pizza.
Suppose you are enjoying Galle.Ah ! A meal at A Minute by Tuk Tuk. Glad you like it.Looking forward....for more.
Oct 27th, 2017, 01:25 AM
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The pizza soundalike a nice change of pace. I love Indian food but you can get full in hurry and three times a day can be too much. Pizza sounds like a great option. How was it? Being a Chicagoan and having great pizza is what we are used to.
Oct 27th, 2017, 03:37 AM
#76
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TP, some downtime relaxing was forced on us, as you’ll read below.
Inquest, it was a Monday, so not busy at all. I don’t think they ran out, just stopped serving it after 11.00. Thanks for your compliments.
JW, the pizza was good, thin crust as we like it.
Ella and the disappearing view.
Breakfast here is similar to that at Bee View in Kandy, masala omelette, fresh fruit, toast and jam, plus tea. The kitchen is a two square meter add on, with very basic equipment.
This morning we walked carefully down the road, cruised the streets of Ella (there’s not many) and tuk tukked to the start of the Little Adams Peak trail. The trail is wide, smooth and gently climbs through tea fields. Then there’s about 350 stone steps, a few sections of goat track, and voila, we’re at the top with 360 degree views. It was quite an effort, but very worthwhile.
Back in town, lunch was a few snacks again at Chill Cafe, fried cashews with chilli and onion, plus pappads with a delicious homemade mango chutney.
Timing is everything, we made it back to our hotel about 5 minutes before the rain. Huge drops pummeled the tin roof above and in front of us, the noise was deafening. Soon the clouds rolled up the valley towards us, turning our view into a white screen, with nothing visible beyond a few metres. We nixed our plans to see the nine arch bridge, and settled in for the rest of the day, reading, writing, napping.
Donning raincoats, we ventured out later for dinner to the nearby Zion View Guesthouse (Mount Blue View doesn’t have a restaurant yet) where we ordered roti and chicken curry with dal, plus samosas with salad. The food was great, the young guys serving us very friendly, and two huge German Shepherds who had the run of the place were happy for pats. These were long haired doggies, obviously well cared for and prized possessions, but so skinny I could feel all their bones. I wanted to say something, but kept shtum. Haven’t seen a fat dog or cat here yet.
Inquest, it was a Monday, so not busy at all. I don’t think they ran out, just stopped serving it after 11.00. Thanks for your compliments.
JW, the pizza was good, thin crust as we like it.
Ella and the disappearing view.
Breakfast here is similar to that at Bee View in Kandy, masala omelette, fresh fruit, toast and jam, plus tea. The kitchen is a two square meter add on, with very basic equipment.
This morning we walked carefully down the road, cruised the streets of Ella (there’s not many) and tuk tukked to the start of the Little Adams Peak trail. The trail is wide, smooth and gently climbs through tea fields. Then there’s about 350 stone steps, a few sections of goat track, and voila, we’re at the top with 360 degree views. It was quite an effort, but very worthwhile.
Back in town, lunch was a few snacks again at Chill Cafe, fried cashews with chilli and onion, plus pappads with a delicious homemade mango chutney.
Timing is everything, we made it back to our hotel about 5 minutes before the rain. Huge drops pummeled the tin roof above and in front of us, the noise was deafening. Soon the clouds rolled up the valley towards us, turning our view into a white screen, with nothing visible beyond a few metres. We nixed our plans to see the nine arch bridge, and settled in for the rest of the day, reading, writing, napping.
Donning raincoats, we ventured out later for dinner to the nearby Zion View Guesthouse (Mount Blue View doesn’t have a restaurant yet) where we ordered roti and chicken curry with dal, plus samosas with salad. The food was great, the young guys serving us very friendly, and two huge German Shepherds who had the run of the place were happy for pats. These were long haired doggies, obviously well cared for and prized possessions, but so skinny I could feel all their bones. I wanted to say something, but kept shtum. Haven’t seen a fat dog or cat here yet.
Oct 27th, 2017, 02:59 PM
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Still following, enjoying and learning much from both you and the experienced SL goers. (Inquest!) So many, many fun and interesting bits, e.g. the Geoffrey Batwa designed hotel: serenity followed by tour group arrival! Oh dear!
Like California Lady, I'm interested, once you're home, recovered, and have digested it all, in how you rank this trip. Difficult I know, but am curious specifically with comparison to your South India trip (just as I asked CL on her most recent trip report.)
Hoping and guessing your husband is recovered now from the nasty head cold?
Like California Lady, I'm interested, once you're home, recovered, and have digested it all, in how you rank this trip. Difficult I know, but am curious specifically with comparison to your South India trip (just as I asked CL on her most recent trip report.)
Hoping and guessing your husband is recovered now from the nasty head cold?
Oct 27th, 2017, 11:12 PM
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Thx Cali.These titbits do spice up this already spicy TR from Sartoric,I am a tad wary of taking the focus off the incredible effort put in compiling this TR 'on the go'.Thats thinking on your feet,independent travel,as we all know is exciting but definitely not easy.Kudos Sartoric.
Keep pace with the hungry soul in you I do have a few places in Colombo.Not to mention Ministry of Crab,everybody' favorite.
Make a booking.
Some authentic Srilankan fare.
Upali's by Nawaloka is a great seafood restaurant.
http://www.upalis.com/colombo/about-us/default.aspx
Curry Pot Restaurant,in YMCA,on Bristol Street,Colombo.
http://www.currypotlk.com/
Mama Aida's for some fusion Middle Eastern food for a change.
@ 61, Dudley Senanayake Mawatha
http://www.mamaaidas.com/
The Mango Tree for some Jhinga (Prawn) Tandoor Indian, they have some great wines too. @82 Srimath Anagarika Dharmapala Mawatha.
http://www.themangotree.net/
Last but not the least,an absolute hole in the wall award goes to...
Mayoora Restaurant,a small,packed little place,serves Jaffna style tamil banana leaf spread (lunch only).The thali is mounds of rice,a masala ommlette,unlimited curry,3 types of veggies with a choice of either crab,fish or prawn curry.Fried fish is extra,An unique combo.All for LKR 250 !!!
They don't believe in websites,sorry.Its on google maps.Its a treasure hunt.Even the Tuk Tuk guys don't know the place.Need to go to Pettah first and ask around.Its on a one way street.
Up to it ?
@ Sri Kathiresan St, Colombo 01300,Call.011 2335109.
Time for me to pull out the masalas an make myself a good prawn curry
Keep pace with the hungry soul in you I do have a few places in Colombo.Not to mention Ministry of Crab,everybody' favorite.
Make a booking.
Some authentic Srilankan fare.
Upali's by Nawaloka is a great seafood restaurant.
http://www.upalis.com/colombo/about-us/default.aspx
Curry Pot Restaurant,in YMCA,on Bristol Street,Colombo.
http://www.currypotlk.com/
Mama Aida's for some fusion Middle Eastern food for a change.
@ 61, Dudley Senanayake Mawatha
http://www.mamaaidas.com/
The Mango Tree for some Jhinga (Prawn) Tandoor Indian, they have some great wines too. @82 Srimath Anagarika Dharmapala Mawatha.
http://www.themangotree.net/
Last but not the least,an absolute hole in the wall award goes to...
Mayoora Restaurant,a small,packed little place,serves Jaffna style tamil banana leaf spread (lunch only).The thali is mounds of rice,a masala ommlette,unlimited curry,3 types of veggies with a choice of either crab,fish or prawn curry.Fried fish is extra,An unique combo.All for LKR 250 !!!
They don't believe in websites,sorry.Its on google maps.Its a treasure hunt.Even the Tuk Tuk guys don't know the place.Need to go to Pettah first and ask around.Its on a one way street.
Up to it ?
@ Sri Kathiresan St, Colombo 01300,Call.011 2335109.
Time for me to pull out the masalas an make myself a good prawn curry
Oct 28th, 2017, 02:17 AM
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This is such a fun TR. So thankful to satoric for keeping us updated from the road. Loving all of the interactve comments as well. Most especially, I am loving choices of retaurants and hotels giving you authentic interactions with locals. It is why we travel! And I am clicking on all of the websites of inquest's restaurant reservations and bookmarking! I am allso seeking comparisons to India when all is said and done. Have not been and don't know yet if it is on my long list. Is it correct, accurate or even fair to call SL India light which I have read on several TR? Thanks again satoric. You are a gifted writer with lots of humor to boot. Enjoying the ride!
