Tasting Sri Lanka
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Oct 17th, 2017, 10:23 AM
#23
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Greetings, Sartoric!! Great to "live" this with you. Thanks as always for posting from the road--not always an easy thing to accomplish!
Your story of leaving the construction-adjacent Sudu Nelum and moving to another place is classic " lemonade out of lemons." So many things you can't tell 'til you get to a place--which makes booking in advance a gambling crap shoot. Part of the adventure, as long as it doesn't happened too often!
Your story of leaving the construction-adjacent Sudu Nelum and moving to another place is classic " lemonade out of lemons." So many things you can't tell 'til you get to a place--which makes booking in advance a gambling crap shoot. Part of the adventure, as long as it doesn't happened too often!
Oct 18th, 2017, 02:22 AM
#24
So loving this! Enjoying your adventures and, again, the personal connections you make with folks as you travel. Mama and Papa - lovely!
Interesting to hear your impressions of SL vs S. India. I'm looking forward to hearing more as you go.
Interesting to hear your impressions of SL vs S. India. I'm looking forward to hearing more as you go.
Oct 18th, 2017, 04:57 PM
#25
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What Mohammed said.
JW and CaliNurse, I could use a good nurse right about now. I’ve developed the symptoms of a head cold - runny nose, vague headache, low energy....
Thanks for your encouragement all.
Anuradhapura Ancient capital and sore feet.
We woke to distant chanting and the sounds of birds, what bliss. Breakfast was string hoppers, dal curry, chicken curry and coconut sambal. I’m thinking I’ll buy a string hopper maker before we leave Sri Lanka and have started collecting recipes for the batter.
The ticket for the ancient city cost 3850 rupees per person, and based on advice we decided to hire a guide to accompany us. We got Ashana, the second best guide in town (the best guide in town is his mentor and was snapped up just before we arrived). Ashana did a great job of explaining this huge site (hundreds of hectares) and also pointed out many birds, lizards, trees and a few chameleon. The temperature was 31 C, fairly humid with no rain and mostly overcast. We saw a few western tourists, but the lions share of other visitors were Sri Lankan, engaging and very friendly. Dilee ferried us between sites. It would have been impossible to understand this complex and ruinous city without Ashana, he was worth every rupee of the 3000 paid. There are parts where shoes must be removed, some areas are gravel, some granite, some marble, all take their toll on the tootsies.
We wound up about 2 pm, and headed to Alankulama bakery for some short eats. Dilee had errands to run, so we ordered by pointing at the display and enjoyed a few different snacks; vada, rolled roti filled with cheese and lentils, and fish roti - a triangle of anchovy mush in bread. Sounds awful, but tasted great. With a coke this meal cost 400 rupees, a real bargain and fun to interact with families also enjoying their lunch. Heading back to the resort we stopped at the state run liquor store for beer. These are very similar to the ones in southern India, behind bars and somber, staffed with serious unsmiling men.
Venturing out late afternoon we stopped for snacks at a roadside stall and had tasty fried balls of lentils, mini samosa and crunchy nut thingys. Interestingly, the bags they came in were carefully glued together chemistry exam papers complete with the red of the markers pen.
The Minhintale temple is on top of a mountain, about 300 shallow stone steps to the second car park, (grrr, why didn’t we park there) and then another trillion steps to the temple itself. We left a puffing Dilee at the shoe depository (me feeling bad for suggesting he needed the exercise) and continued on barefoot to the top for magnificent views of the surrounding countryside. Feet really over this by now, but so happy that my six months of cardio and core strengthening at the gym seems to have paid off. I wouldn’t have made the distance otherwise.
Passing through town we stopped at Chammy restaurant again, this time for takeaway kotu roti. On a huge flat hot plate, the chef throws a mix of chopped veggies, garlic and ginger, adds a powder of chilli, turmeric and salt, breaks on two eggs and several handfuls of string hopper. He then goes to work with two flat steel choppers, mixing and frying our kotu, before adding a few pieces of chicken, and chop chop chopping again. It comes with a small tub of soup and a peppery sauce. This is so good washed down with a local lion beer back at our resort.
There’s jackals here we’re told, but tonight they’re elusive. There were some monsters in jack boots on our roof in the early hours of the morning....
JW and CaliNurse, I could use a good nurse right about now. I’ve developed the symptoms of a head cold - runny nose, vague headache, low energy....
Thanks for your encouragement all.
Anuradhapura Ancient capital and sore feet.
We woke to distant chanting and the sounds of birds, what bliss. Breakfast was string hoppers, dal curry, chicken curry and coconut sambal. I’m thinking I’ll buy a string hopper maker before we leave Sri Lanka and have started collecting recipes for the batter.
The ticket for the ancient city cost 3850 rupees per person, and based on advice we decided to hire a guide to accompany us. We got Ashana, the second best guide in town (the best guide in town is his mentor and was snapped up just before we arrived). Ashana did a great job of explaining this huge site (hundreds of hectares) and also pointed out many birds, lizards, trees and a few chameleon. The temperature was 31 C, fairly humid with no rain and mostly overcast. We saw a few western tourists, but the lions share of other visitors were Sri Lankan, engaging and very friendly. Dilee ferried us between sites. It would have been impossible to understand this complex and ruinous city without Ashana, he was worth every rupee of the 3000 paid. There are parts where shoes must be removed, some areas are gravel, some granite, some marble, all take their toll on the tootsies.
We wound up about 2 pm, and headed to Alankulama bakery for some short eats. Dilee had errands to run, so we ordered by pointing at the display and enjoyed a few different snacks; vada, rolled roti filled with cheese and lentils, and fish roti - a triangle of anchovy mush in bread. Sounds awful, but tasted great. With a coke this meal cost 400 rupees, a real bargain and fun to interact with families also enjoying their lunch. Heading back to the resort we stopped at the state run liquor store for beer. These are very similar to the ones in southern India, behind bars and somber, staffed with serious unsmiling men.
Venturing out late afternoon we stopped for snacks at a roadside stall and had tasty fried balls of lentils, mini samosa and crunchy nut thingys. Interestingly, the bags they came in were carefully glued together chemistry exam papers complete with the red of the markers pen.
The Minhintale temple is on top of a mountain, about 300 shallow stone steps to the second car park, (grrr, why didn’t we park there) and then another trillion steps to the temple itself. We left a puffing Dilee at the shoe depository (me feeling bad for suggesting he needed the exercise) and continued on barefoot to the top for magnificent views of the surrounding countryside. Feet really over this by now, but so happy that my six months of cardio and core strengthening at the gym seems to have paid off. I wouldn’t have made the distance otherwise.
Passing through town we stopped at Chammy restaurant again, this time for takeaway kotu roti. On a huge flat hot plate, the chef throws a mix of chopped veggies, garlic and ginger, adds a powder of chilli, turmeric and salt, breaks on two eggs and several handfuls of string hopper. He then goes to work with two flat steel choppers, mixing and frying our kotu, before adding a few pieces of chicken, and chop chop chopping again. It comes with a small tub of soup and a peppery sauce. This is so good washed down with a local lion beer back at our resort.
There’s jackals here we’re told, but tonight they’re elusive. There were some monsters in jack boots on our roof in the early hours of the morning....
Oct 18th, 2017, 05:50 PM
#26
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I am so enjoying your posts, sartoric. While at Anuradhapura, did you get a chance to see the jewelry in the museum? I was impressed how beautiful the whole site was, so even if you're not a ruin fan, it can be quite nice.
I remember the clanging knife sound while the chef made kotu roti. It was quite loud, and I wondered if was really necessary, or was it part for show? I thought it had a good taste, but I wish it had more veggies, and less bread.
I had both brown and white string hoppers in South India. Did you see them being made when you went on the Food Safari in Madurai?
Hope you feel better. Colds are so annoying when you travel.
I remember the clanging knife sound while the chef made kotu roti. It was quite loud, and I wondered if was really necessary, or was it part for show? I thought it had a good taste, but I wish it had more veggies, and less bread.
I had both brown and white string hoppers in South India. Did you see them being made when you went on the Food Safari in Madurai?
Hope you feel better. Colds are so annoying when you travel.
Oct 18th, 2017, 06:22 PM
#27
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I'm with you on the string hoppers - miss them so.
I didn't see many tourists at all at Anuradhapura other than Sri Lankan worshippers at the bodhi tree, and we were there in high season; Polonnaruwa was a different story though. Interested in which you like better between the two.
Hoping you feel better soon.
I didn't see many tourists at all at Anuradhapura other than Sri Lankan worshippers at the bodhi tree, and we were there in high season; Polonnaruwa was a different story though. Interested in which you like better between the two.
Hoping you feel better soon.
Oct 19th, 2017, 04:44 PM
#28
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Enjoying this so much, Sartoric!! But sad you don't feel 100%. Sending vibes to you to feel better. I've perfect meds for head cold congestion but alas, am too far away to send.
Maybe fresh ginger (or even just black) tea, with loads of honey and lemon often during the day, with an added small splash of your gin at night?
RN Larry...thoughts?
Maybe fresh ginger (or even just black) tea, with loads of honey and lemon often during the day, with an added small splash of your gin at night?
RN Larry...thoughts?
Oct 19th, 2017, 08:20 PM
#30
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Super report. Great to hear you enjoying yourselves.Following you, though I'm on the move.
Solution for sore feet would be a thick pair of socks. Would help getting around sizzling granite.
Hope you have recovered Sartoric.Youll need all the energy for Sigiriya and Dambulla.
Solution for sore feet would be a thick pair of socks. Would help getting around sizzling granite.
Hope you have recovered Sartoric.Youll need all the energy for Sigiriya and Dambulla.
Oct 20th, 2017, 04:05 PM
#31
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CL, yes we saw the jewellery in the museum under the watchful eye of the room keeper. Another yes to the loud clanging of the kotu choppers, whether it’s for show or not, I think not. More veggies would have suited me too, but here it’s almost like they’re a flavouring agent rather than adding any substance. A third yes to seeing them being made in Madurai on the street food tour. Fascinating stuff for amateur cooks like us.
TP, I have to collect my thoughts on both sites, different and similar in many ways.
CaliNurse, the cold is a nuisance, but I’m soldiering on. The last time I had a head cold was April 2016 in Hue Vietnam, I know this because the meds bought then have been in the travelling kit ever since, they came in handy.
Kathie, as a temple fanatic you’d enjoy Anuradhapura. There are no signs of the war now, however it’s not easy to draw out Sinhalese people on the means of ending it and rumoured war crimes perpetrated by the military. There is also some smouldering resentment which we felt in the largely Tamil Trincomalee.
Inquest, thanks. I did have old socks at the ready, but more than the heat it was little tiny stones on smooth granite that hurt. Anyway, all four feet have recovered nicely.
Anuradhapura to Trincomalee for a puja.
Today we had milk rice for breakfast. This is rice cooked with coconut milk, pressed into trays, left to set firm, then cut into rectangular pieces. It was served with dal curry, chilli sambal, coconut sambal and roti. I got the recipes for all and a look in the very basic kitchen.
The drive to Trincomalee takes a couple of hours, with a stop for coffee at a roadside shack (where the rain starts again) and many stops for birds and animals. Despite plenty of elephant road signs, we’ve yet to see one. We stopped for cows, donkeys, goats and buffalo, maybe Dilee thinks these domesticated animals are novel to us.
We’ve checked in to Sea Lotus Park Hotel on Uppaveli beach where (with Dilee’s help) we negotiate a special rate. Frankly, I wouldn’t have chosen this place, but they have been accomodating and we are absolute beach front. Our room fronts the Indian Ocean. It’s the light blue of aquamarine, palm fringed and beautiful. We sit on our porch and watch a small messy left hand shore break, over and over again. Later this sound will lull us to sleep.
First though, we visit Sri Narayana Kovil, a Hindu temple where we luck in to the closing puja ceremony. The sounds are soulful and mesmerising, we are the only people here apart from the two priests officiating. Men need to remove their shirts, very pleased they don’t expect the same from women.
We have to tear ourselves away to eat next door at their restaurant. The restaurant is huge, maybe 300 seats, and with only two other people there I had my doubts. But, this is a gem, 24 hours later I’m still thinking about that food, it was so good. We enjoyed roti paratha with chicken curry, plus masala dosa with coconut chutney, tomato chutney and dal curry. The dosa is filled with a spicy mix of veggies, the roti paratha is light and fluffy, truely divine. Perhaps their inspiration is taken from the temple.
TP, I have to collect my thoughts on both sites, different and similar in many ways.
CaliNurse, the cold is a nuisance, but I’m soldiering on. The last time I had a head cold was April 2016 in Hue Vietnam, I know this because the meds bought then have been in the travelling kit ever since, they came in handy.
Kathie, as a temple fanatic you’d enjoy Anuradhapura. There are no signs of the war now, however it’s not easy to draw out Sinhalese people on the means of ending it and rumoured war crimes perpetrated by the military. There is also some smouldering resentment which we felt in the largely Tamil Trincomalee.
Inquest, thanks. I did have old socks at the ready, but more than the heat it was little tiny stones on smooth granite that hurt. Anyway, all four feet have recovered nicely.
Anuradhapura to Trincomalee for a puja.
Today we had milk rice for breakfast. This is rice cooked with coconut milk, pressed into trays, left to set firm, then cut into rectangular pieces. It was served with dal curry, chilli sambal, coconut sambal and roti. I got the recipes for all and a look in the very basic kitchen.
The drive to Trincomalee takes a couple of hours, with a stop for coffee at a roadside shack (where the rain starts again) and many stops for birds and animals. Despite plenty of elephant road signs, we’ve yet to see one. We stopped for cows, donkeys, goats and buffalo, maybe Dilee thinks these domesticated animals are novel to us.
We’ve checked in to Sea Lotus Park Hotel on Uppaveli beach where (with Dilee’s help) we negotiate a special rate. Frankly, I wouldn’t have chosen this place, but they have been accomodating and we are absolute beach front. Our room fronts the Indian Ocean. It’s the light blue of aquamarine, palm fringed and beautiful. We sit on our porch and watch a small messy left hand shore break, over and over again. Later this sound will lull us to sleep.
First though, we visit Sri Narayana Kovil, a Hindu temple where we luck in to the closing puja ceremony. The sounds are soulful and mesmerising, we are the only people here apart from the two priests officiating. Men need to remove their shirts, very pleased they don’t expect the same from women.
We have to tear ourselves away to eat next door at their restaurant. The restaurant is huge, maybe 300 seats, and with only two other people there I had my doubts. But, this is a gem, 24 hours later I’m still thinking about that food, it was so good. We enjoyed roti paratha with chicken curry, plus masala dosa with coconut chutney, tomato chutney and dal curry. The dosa is filled with a spicy mix of veggies, the roti paratha is light and fluffy, truely divine. Perhaps their inspiration is taken from the temple.
Oct 21st, 2017, 01:02 AM
#33
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Re-living lanka thru your interesting report. Thx Sartoric.Would recommend Fernandos bar by the Uppaveli beach.Gŕt place Order a King Coconut with Arrack (urak) a local cocktail. Its coconutwater honey and a palm liquor. Wow. It was amazing. A ' dead and gone to heaven' feel. The seafood platter was superb.A boat trip to Pigeon Island for some scuba or snorkelling if into it.Absolutely beautiful aquamarine waters.Unforunately not the season foe whales.
Have fun .pl keep us hooked.thx.
Have fun .pl keep us hooked.thx.
Oct 21st, 2017, 03:23 AM
#34
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Doh inquest, though live I’m posting on a two day delay. Your recommendation would have been perfect for Trincomalee, which you’ll read in the next (not ready yet) post wasn’t ideal. So, do you have anything for me food wise for Nurawa Eliya, Ella, Galle or Colombo ?
TP, tomorrow I hope to walk your shoes around Kandy.
TP, tomorrow I hope to walk your shoes around Kandy.
Oct 21st, 2017, 03:48 AM
#35
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If you've looking for a good place to stay would recommend
https://www.nuwaraeliyagolfclub.com/
Superb ambience. The residences and the bar/restaurant is awesome. Very different to a hotel. The food too was awesome. Contact them thru the link.
Its one of the oldest golf clubs in asia.Classic colonial Brit feel.I remember my round of golf there 15 yrs ago.
Sorry. Realised there is time lapse in your posting. Will keep that in mind. Let me try and dig out places from my fading memory.
https://www.nuwaraeliyagolfclub.com/
Superb ambience. The residences and the bar/restaurant is awesome. Very different to a hotel. The food too was awesome. Contact them thru the link.
Its one of the oldest golf clubs in asia.Classic colonial Brit feel.I remember my round of golf there 15 yrs ago.
Sorry. Realised there is time lapse in your posting. Will keep that in mind. Let me try and dig out places from my fading memory.
Oct 21st, 2017, 04:21 AM
#37
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Ella Spice Garden,is a nice place in Ella to actually learn some srilankan curries if you're interested and have some time.If you do make it there you could post some interesting tips here.
Another little hole in the wall place was a part shop/cafe called Wimala. Hope I've got it right. Simple down to earth lankan food.
Another little hole in the wall place was a part shop/cafe called Wimala. Hope I've got it right. Simple down to earth lankan food.
Oct 21st, 2017, 05:12 AM
#38
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After the usual visit to the various places in Kandy, drop into Madam Helga’s Folly.A very bizzare home worth a look.The wierdness is taken to another level. Eerie,whacky or nutty.whatever you feel.Its worth a visit.You could book a table for dinner.Quite good actually.If I remember it costs $20 pp.
Oct 21st, 2017, 07:10 AM
#40
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No no, don’t apologise inquest. Nuwara Eliya is only a short stop for a look around and lunch break. I had read about the golf club, so lunch venue it will be. Ella Spice Garden can be a back stop in the case of (highly possible) heavy rain. Dilee told us about Wimala, so that’s now a definite and I had Helgas Folly on the maybe list for a drink, now we’ll go for sure. You’re really helping me, and future visitors to Sri Lanka. Keep it up, and many thanks !
