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Sunrise at Borobudur

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Sunrise at Borobudur

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Old Mar 16th, 2006, 01:36 PM
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Sunrise at Borobudur

We will be staying at the Amanjiwo the night of May 24 and want to experience sunrise at Borobudur the following morning. The Amanjiwo is charging almost $100 per person for their sunrise picnic at Borobudur, which does not include any kind of tour. I find that too expensive for what they are offering and was wondering if we can get into Borobudur by ourselves and hire a guide once there. The Amanjiwo offers complimentary transfers to Borobudur although I'm not sure if they would bring us there that early without reserving one of their packages. Their sunrise at Borobudur is about $50 per person and again, I don't think it includes a tour since they have a seperate tour listed at almost $100 per person.

Will we be able to get to Borobudur from Amanjiwo on our own? Also, I have read that the monument opens at 6am. Will this be too late to see the sunrise? I have searched the web for a sunrise timetable but haven't come up with any that aren't overly technical or only put in the date you actually go to the site. Does anyone know of a simple web site that will allow me to get this data for May 25? Can we hire a guide at Borobudur?
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Old Mar 16th, 2006, 04:25 PM
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Ok, I was feeling geeky this evening and as you will be at Amanjiwo on my birthday....I did some searching.
Here is what I found:

U.S. Naval Observatory
Astronomical Applications Department


Sun and Moon Data for One Day
The following information is provided for Jogyakarta (longitude E110.3, latitude S7.8):

Thursday
25 May 2006 Universal Time + 8h

SUN
Begin civil twilight 06:21
Sunrise 06:44
Sun transit 12:35
Sunset 18:27
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Old Mar 16th, 2006, 04:26 PM
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It's been a couple of years since I was there, but as I recall, there is a typically Indonesian system of 'gratuities' required to get into Borobodur before sunrise. It's actually this that you probably need a guide for. The monument itself does not really require a guide to see.

The trouble with the Amanjiwo is that it's so far from Yogya that you'll probably have trouble organizing a tour on your own.
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Old Mar 16th, 2006, 04:36 PM
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Cruisinred, thanks so much for finding that! I was afraid that we would have to get there at 5am or something! I'll be sure to have a special drink at the Aman for your birthday. I'll lst you know if was good when we meet up in Bangkok.

Michael, Amanjiwo may be far from Yogya but it's very close to Borobudur. I suppose we'll apy to have the Amanjiwo bring us there (without the picnic) and if we feel the need, find a guide once there.
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Old Mar 16th, 2006, 04:38 PM
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that's "...I'll LET you know..." and "...we'll PAY to have..." Sheesh, why can't I catch these typos BEFORE hitting the POST button quot;>
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Old Mar 17th, 2006, 01:43 AM
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You need the Amanjiwo transport to get to and fro Borobudur temple. While Amanjiwo is close to the Borobudur complex it is not part of the same grounds like say the Manohara. Ditch the guide. Our Amanjiwo driver walked us around (for a tip of course) and we were fine. Re the gratuities to get in. while we were there people were truned away - only people allowed in were the Amanjiwo and manohara guests.
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Old Mar 17th, 2006, 04:18 AM
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Thanks hobbes. I guess we'll do the sunrise at Borobudur through Amanjiwo since I don't want to be turned away, unless, heaven forbid, we wake up that morning and it's raining or something! In that case we'll just go later (and for free). I'll also make sure we have a good guidbook so we know what we're looking at. Hopefully there is a Blue Guide for Indonesia.
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Old Mar 20th, 2006, 02:45 PM
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I just arrived back from Indonesia this morning and though I haven't even thought about a trip report yet I thought I would reply to this.

We didn't visit Borobodur at sunrise, just not early morning people(!) but we loved Borobodur it's quite fascinating and is so much more exciting/interesting in person than when you look at 2 dimenaionial representations.

From reading the board my impression was that you had to stay at certain hotels to get in for sunrise. This is not currently the case, though it may have been in the past. Our local travel agent/guide told us that they need copies of your passport page that need to be submitted (I think the day before) and that a security guide is used.

As to the price Yogyakarta, with the exception of the Aman, is extradinarily cheap and the local company we used charged $25pp for our trip which was meant to take 5 hrs and took closer to seven. We visited Borobodur then took lunch at Amanjiwo and saw a couple of additional smaller temples. We loved our guide Indri who works at Electra Tours , I'll post her details in the upcoming trip report.

She was very informative and friendly provided me with her home and cell numbers and came in to open the office on a Sunday to try and sort out our onward tickets to Bali. That's service!

If you decide to use the Aman transfers and want a local guide I highly recommend Indri. The guides in town all know each other and she was the head of their local association. I like having a guide and always feel it helps me learn, especially when it's a rather last minute trip and I haven't read alot before we arrive! My husband often wanders away and generally prefers a less mediated experience.

There's just no comparison between Amanjiwo and the other options such as the Hyatt where we stayed, both in terms of price and situation. Amanjiwo provides an image and sense of rural Java that is not comparable in Yogyakarta.

Therr are hardly any tourists in this area of Java. I think there were only 4 rooms occupied at the Aman when we visited and the guide said that often there's no one staying there.

Hope this helps. I'll post in the next couple of days.
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Old Mar 20th, 2006, 03:03 PM
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welltraveledbrit, thanks so much for that. We will be staying at the Amanjiwo for one night, it's already booked and paid for and I am really looking forward to it. I would be interested in the contact info for Indri, I find having a guide at sights like this offer something more than just reading from a book. We'll be at the Dusun Yogya Inn for the first four nights, then one night at the Aman and then back to the Dusun for two more nights before moving on to Thailand.

I look forward to your trip report!
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Old Mar 20th, 2006, 03:24 PM
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In Indonesia, most an thing can be arranged if you pay the right person; however, in your case I'd say going with the Aman’s service for sunrise at Borobudur would be the best decision. If you like it you could always return another day with a guide like Indri for a more in-depth tour.

The Aman will wake you at 4:30, give you a light breakfast (coffee!) then drive you to the temple grounds. If you like, they’ll escort you from the parking area to the top of the temple. It will be dark but it’s a fairly straight forward route.

The sky will begin to lighten at around 5:15 but the actual appearance of the sun over the volcano is around ½ an hour later. The exact time varies but it’s before 6:00 a.m.

After you’ve absorbed enough sunrise I’d suggest that you go back down to the base of the temple and make the traditional pilgrim’s circumambulation, which entails walking clockwise around every level from the base to the top. You start at the main entrance and go around all the levels; it takes about an hour.

The tiers are corridor like and richly embellished with low relief carvings representing Buddhist lore. The belief is that when you reach the top with the many Buddhas and open sky you will have achieved enlightenment.

It helps to learn a few of the stories depicted in the carvings and the symbolism of the temple. I like the book “Borobudur, Golden Tales of the Buddhas” by John Miksic. I’d just choose one tier (the first one up is good) and try to match some of the photos in the book to the actual reliefs. Then you can read the story of Buddha’s life as you look at the carvings.

Although the temple can get quite crowded during official opening hours -- even at 6:00 a.m. and especially on weekends -- most visitors charge straight to the top and don’t spend a lot of time in the corridors looking at the reliefs. You should try to make the pilgrimage both because it is meditative and peaceful and because the carvings are what makes Borobudur so spectacular.

There are plenty of tour guides at the temple. I have mixed feelings about them – interesting and informative for sure, but not necessary especially if you have taken the time to learn something about the monument on your own.

By 8:30 or so you’ll be done. Your driver will wait for you with a cold drink. There’s a nice handicrafts shop enroute called Mendut that you could stop at at. Even if they’re not officially open they will be happy to let you in. They specialize in reproductions of antique batiks. Be sure to see the glass paintings on the lower level.
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Old Mar 20th, 2006, 04:14 PM
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We definitely will be doing the sunrise with the Aman but since they don't provide a tour with that, perhaps we can have Indri meet us there later in the morning. If not, we'll just make sure we have a good book for the pilgramage.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2006, 01:51 PM
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Good decision. We were also intially daunted by Aman pricing but finally, encouraged by Marmot, did 2 nights there and did the sunrise tour with them followed by the elephant back ride back to the hotel and both were fabulos, once in a lifetime experiences. As I mentioend our driver plus our own knowledge of Buddhism and Hinduism provided enough information - Marmot is quite right though that the sculptures on the walls all the way down are worth spending time on. We went in Oct and at sunrise we were about 20 people, not that crowded. BTW, early AM before you depart Amanjiwo provides, coffee, juice and a croissant.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2006, 02:03 PM
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thanks hobbes. It's good to know that we'll have some coffee prior to going. Eric and I are quite useless before our morning coffee! We haven't decided if we're going to do the elephant ride back. I always wonder how the elephant feels about having someone on it's back. The Amanjiwo has been quite gracious in their emails to me, stating we can make up our minds about activities once we arrive.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2006, 02:15 PM
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laurieco, I'm with you on the importance of caffeine! Bear in mind, though, that the restrooms at Borobudur are questionable.

I've never done the elephant ride myself. People who do are wildly enthusiastic as the route takes you off-road, through some pretty countryside. As far as the attitude of the elephants goes, these are working animals and they're happy for the attention. Back at the Aman everyone gives them bananas and takes photos.

Once when we took guests to Borobudur the elephants were already booked; they (the people, that is) were sorely disappointed.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2006, 03:59 PM
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I just ordered “Borobudur, Golden Tales of the Buddhas”. Not the cheapest book but less expensive than a guide I suppose. None of my guidebooks gave very good descriptions of Borobudur. Periplus does explain some of the reliefs but doesn't have pictures so the descriptions are useless.
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Old Mar 22nd, 2006, 04:33 PM
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Laurieco,
Do go into the small museum at Borobodur. They have several there, including one strangely about various world records!???!

However there is one museum that has various stones that were not used in the rehabiliation of the temple. There are some fascinationg older photos of the unreconstructed temple including a pirceless one of several Dutch colonials having tea at the top of Borobodur!
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Old Mar 24th, 2006, 01:06 PM
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If we have time and energy, we will go to the museum. I've read that it's not worth it but if I'm there, I'd hate to miss it.
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