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Suggestions for India please.

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Old Jul 9th, 2018, 12:19 AM
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Sorry--skipped a few essential words. I meant, public transport is not as close to Chhoti Haveli, as it is to Tree of Life. Also, the "social aspect" is not there much at Chhoti, as it is smaller. Just me and one other guest. It was fine, but I did very much enjoy the interaction with a larger number of fellow guests, as well as the owner and staff, at Tree of Life on next trip to New Delhi

Also, re: Jaipur---you've stayed before, right? So i'm guessing you want more off-the-beaten-path site recommendations?
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Old Jul 9th, 2018, 02:03 PM
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So glad you chimed in CaliNurse. I’m thinking for New Delhi that staying near the Hauz Khas area might be good for us. Both of your recommendations would work.

In Amritsar you recommended a guide who now has a homestay....it looks basic, but I think we’ll opt for his small family home.

Yes we’ve been to Jaipur before, we stayed at the Trident a bit out of town. I’m looking for more quirky and personal this time.

Thanks so much.
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Old Jul 10th, 2018, 08:44 AM
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Funny, I made Punjabi chickpea chole for dinner tonight ! Still debating on the food at the temple, it would be silly to go all that way and not partake, on the other hand....
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Old Jul 10th, 2018, 02:35 PM
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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jall..._Bagh_massacre
this is a must see in Amritsar
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Old Jul 11th, 2018, 12:54 AM
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Nice to hear that there are Chickpea Chole aficionados in here.Its a hurricane of tastes designed to hit all your sensory buds in your palate,sizzling and spicy,hot and herbal, and sweet and tangy.

Though largely misconstrued as a 'Punjabi' dish, it is ubiquitous in most of the Northern half of India
(now available with regional variations all over India) and Pakistan too.Perfect to eat with,naan, roti, or rice and even dinner rolls.The Chole aka Channa Masala is, in my opinion,the best with Bhature,a puffy deep-fried white-flour bread ( a larger version of the South Indian poories),served with raw onion rings and sauteed green chilly. Rip a piece of Bhature, folding it with your fingers,spoon the chole and in one go, pop it into your mouth and let it explode your senses.

What a coincidence Cali. I too stayed at Tree of Life,(reason for recommending it) that was over 5 years ago, though a lovely place,a short stay, I don't re-call much. Most of my early visits have been staying with friends,a few guesthouses in the lovely suburbs and many a times at the Delhi Gymkhana Club as a guest of a member.Its colonial charm,grandeur and wonderful hospitality,speaks of its glorious past.

Sartoric, there are a couple of names that were doing the round with reference to Jaipur. Check these out.

Pratap Bhavan
Pratap Bhawan | Jaipur Homestay | Bed & Breakfast Hotel

Anuraag Villa
Economy Hotel Jaipur, Heritage Haveli Jaipur, Heritage Hotel Jaipur, Budget Hotel Jaipur, Centrally Located Hotels Jaipur Rajasthan, Forte and Palace hotels Jaipur, Luxurious Hotel Jaipur, Family Vacation Hotel Jaipur, Roof Top Restaurant Hotel Jaipu

Both seem to have good reviews.Please do your assessment before arriving at a conclusion.As i've mentioned in my past TRs that any place recommended, could over time,change,many a time for the worse.Change of ownership, management,a chef or even a bad experience with housekeeping could have lasting effects.There is no guarantee.
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Old Jul 11th, 2018, 03:00 AM
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Oops. Didn't realise there is an Algerian parrot caged in here
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Old Jul 11th, 2018, 09:46 PM
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The main dish of the Punjab during the winters is 'Makki ki Roti' (Indian bread made of maize) & 'Sarson ka saag', mustard leaves hashed, partaken with a good dollop of butter. It is much appreciated by all with a glassful of butter milk. Punjabis do not take butter milk in the evenings, unlike some other states.,
There are many class differences prevalent in India and the same is true of Punjab. Class & Caste may not be coterminous. While all will like to have the Sarson ka saag during the winters, not many especially the educated and health conscious, appreciate Chole Bhature. It is ok to taste the dish but I would not like to go gaga over it.
The meat dishes were made occasionally in a Punjabi household. The majority of the populace was & is still vegetarian. This trend is slowly changing and more people are now partaking of non-veg dishes. This is partly due to the transmigration of populace during the partition. The meat eating moslem population left for Pakistan and in the wake, those who emigrated into India brought the dominant trends into the modern-day Punjab. The Brahiminical system of sacred & profane still remains largely intact today.
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Old Jul 11th, 2018, 11:25 PM
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Last year i visited Manali, via Chandigarh, I have not a best idea for travel, In Chandigarh i visited Sukhna lake, Rock garden, Artificial Mountain, polo ground, and lots of more thing. while in Chandigarh, i am not able to find such a restaurant where i find "Sarso the saag and makki the roti"
If you know any restaurant please send me the adress.
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Old Jul 12th, 2018, 10:35 AM
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Haus Khaz is a great area, relatively posh interesting and charming shopping lanes. Shops in the complex include ndividually owned, non-chain, "boutiquey" shops, small restaurants. Where else will you find shopping center with an archaeological dig and lake contained in it?
There is a Haus Khaz metro stop, so even if you don't stay in the immediate area, it's easy to reach via public transport, e.g. the metro stop five minutes from Tree of Life.

Or, you can stay right IN the area. One of the lodgings on Inquest's list is in the Hauz Khas complex: Lazy Patio . It is on Booking.com but shows nonrefundable 50% cost once booked.
There are other Haus Khaz area B and Bs/homestays, ,e.g. Haveli - Boutique Bed and Breakfast, Guest house in Hauz Khas Enclave, New Delhi, with reasonable prices. I almost booked it in the past (when it was called Amarya Haveli.)

Bed and Chai, another of those on Inquest's list, has a blog with interesting sections including one one is low-priced palace-stays. There's one in Bundi .

Jaipur---where I stayed had great rooms but mediocre food, and so wouldnt stay again. Tim has a place he loves (I don't recall its name) plus he is i believe now in Rajasthan checking out old and new lodging recs so he may have an idea for your stay there.There are sooooo many lodgings in Jaipur! As to sites, my favorite was the Monkey Hanuman Temple,Galta-ji, in the hills on the outskirts of town. Fantastic place with mountain springs that pilgrims bath in.When i was there, it was quiet with no felllow-tourists. Since you've previously been in Jaipur, and lkely saw many of its most famous sites, Galta-ji would be an idea for this trip. https://www.tourmyindia.com/states/r...le-jaipur.html
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Old Jul 13th, 2018, 09:18 PM
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gujerattourismo: Sarson ka saag & Makki ki roti is a traditional dish of Punjab. This dish won't be found in the fast-food type restaurants around the Chandigarh Lake. There will be several eateries in sector 22 & 35 who will serve this meal, during the winters. I am quite positive you will get it in Taj Chandigarh & the Marriott. The tough peasantry of Punjab relishes it immensely. Every household will make this dish irrespective of the urban/rural divide. The Saag made in Punjab household will contain Bathua (locally called Bathoo/botanical name I think is Chenopodium Album) leaves, which is rich in herbal health benefits. The makki ki roti is tough to bake for it breaks in the process. Older Punjabi ladies baked it very well. The younger generation does not have the time or inclination. The restaurants add wheat or gram flour to it, bake it in an oven, which kills the taste. The best makki ki roti is made on a gridle, the maize being ground slowly either by hand-driven grinding stone or driven by water, as is still the case in Himachal Pradesh. It is very soft and sweet.
Bon appetite!
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Old Jul 13th, 2018, 09:24 PM
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If you proceed to Galta Ji, beware of those aggressive monkeys. Don't carry any eatables or fruit or juice can in your hand. These critters are hard to dislodge.
The pilgrims feed these making them very bold.
Happy travels!
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Old Jul 17th, 2018, 08:20 PM
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Amritsar: make two separate trip to the GoldenTemple. Its atmosphere at night, vs in the morning, is entirely different. The day is all busy, a self-encased village even with its own medicine dispensary as well as the famous kitchens. Night is peaceful and sublime, even with the huge number of pilgrims circling on the cool marble walkway around the central pool

I don't know personally about the homestay that Gurinder started. Tthere were af ew tripadvisor review that sounded promising. In pix it looks quite basic, open shower, etc. But i can say you from our two days with him, that Grinder is a great guide and person and you will learn so much about the Punjab, and Sikh culture If not already done, see his website for the many possibilities. including to a village area suburb of Amritsa. He'll take you wherever, depending on your interest...or will just lead the way if you are open to that. The Wagah/Atari border closing ceremony is deliberately planned high theater and as you see across the border to thePakistani side, each side gets into its collective chats of " Long live Hindustan!" vs "Long live Pakistan!" If you havent already seen these, here are some ideas for Amritsar area tours.
Amritsar Heritage Walk,Architectural and Traditional Heritage Tour see village tour About Me, Gurinder Singh Johal, Tourist Guide in Amritsar
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Old Jul 17th, 2018, 08:22 PM
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Sorry Sartorial about all the typos above. I tried to correct them with the edit function then got a "too short message" reply. Grrr!!!
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Old Jul 17th, 2018, 08:24 PM
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Sartoric!! Not Sartorial!!! Typos plus auto correct plus the "new improved Fodors" = grrrrr!!!!!
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Old Jul 18th, 2018, 03:34 AM
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Once again thank you CaliNurse, I’ll be getting in touch with Gurinder soon.
Thanks also again vp_singh, I will definitely want to try the mustard leaves saag (we are flexitarians- mainly vegetarian with the occasional chicken or fish dish).
So many things to see in Amritsar ! Definitely want to visit the Wagah border ceremony, and Jacketwatch the museum sounds interesting too.
My plan is coming along nicely, thanks to everyone for their input !
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Old Jul 23rd, 2018, 01:41 AM
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Few points to add to the great advice above -

1. A few havelis in shekhawati have been restored. Poddar haveli is a museum now and worth a visit. However, four days do seem a bit much to me. You could do two or two and a half (another half being a travel day to Jaipur perhaps)
2. On Diwali, Jaipur's walled city decorations usually make it to the national news. However, it does get polluted and it can be bad - not as bad as Delhi though. If I had to choose a place to see the lights, general decoration etc. I'd choose Jaipur over the smaller places in Rajasthan.
3. In Rajasthan, the more atmospheric hotels are either former palaces, or other residences. Two groups, not owned by any major hotel chain, have done a good job converting such heritage properties to hotels - the HRH group owned in part by the Udaipur royal family and the other is Neemrana group. The word group is a bit of a misnomer here as all you're getting is a website and a booking engine that connects these. In your itinerary, Gajner palace run by HRH and Piramal Haveli run by Neemrana could be options.
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Old Jul 24th, 2018, 09:39 PM
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The HRH has some wonderfully located hotels all over Rajasthan. These are old Palaces/hunting lodges and very nicely decorated. A lot of character as well. The best out of all these are the Shiv Niwas Palace(Terrace Suites) & Fateh Prakash Palace (Lake facing), at Udaipur. The meals turn out to be good if not extraordinary. However, it is the service which lets them down... too laid back for modern times...are you there HRH?
The Neemrana has also some fine properties. There higher range rooms are better than the standard. The food is like home-cooked.
Happy travels!
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Old Jul 28th, 2018, 11:26 AM
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My plans to visit India are still on hold; reading this has whetted my appetite again but I am reluctant to embark upon a first time visit by myself and all the tours on offer seem to move too fast for my tastes, though that may be what I end up doing.

Thanks for sharing all your wonderful ideas - one day!!!
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Old Jul 31st, 2018, 01:29 AM
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Ahh, continued thanks to contributors, and glad it’s helpful for other planners.

The Neemrana and HRH palaces look wonderful, far more than I’m prepared to pay though.
So far, I’ve booked a couple of nights at Prakriti Farms near Rupnagar in the Punjab. There’s a Ramsar listed wetlands nearby and they can arrange a bird expert to accompany us for a half day at a reasonable 2000 INR. I’m also considering a night or two at HACRA a village/camel/desert experience outside Osiyan in Rajasthan. The operation was highly recommended by Tim at Indian Panorama despite there being no electricity or running water !

Regarding Indian Panorama, I’ve decided to go it alone with booking all accommodation and using Namaste Tours India for car and driver services. I like their website and email response. Does anyone know more about this company, or recommend another car/driver only operation ?

Annhig, don’t give up, you’ll get to India when the time is right.
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Old Jul 31st, 2018, 12:07 PM
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Thanks, Sartoric - that's what I keep telling myself.
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