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Suggestions for India please.

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Old Jun 23rd, 2018, 09:32 PM
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Suggestions for India please.

This will be our third trip to incredible India, 22 days on the ground in November 2018, the flights are booked in/out of New Delhi.

I’ll be using the services of Tim at Indian Panorama for booking road travel (car and driver), some accommodation and flights/trains. I also want an element of wing it.

Here’s a rough draft of the itinerary, and some following questions.

Delhi 1 night (arrival near midnight)
Car/driver
Shekhawati region 4 nights
Bikaner 2 nights
Pushkar 2 nights
Bundi 2 nights
Jaipur 2 nights

Fly to
Amritsar 3 nights

Car/driver
Chandigarh 2 nights
Rishikesh 3 nights

Train to
Delhi 2 nights


The route and chosen cities are flexible, we’re cool with one or two night stays, travel light and like road trips. On a previous trip we’ve been to New Delhi, Jaipur, Jodhpur and Udaipur, (of course there’s always more to see) and though I’d dearly love to revisit Jodhpur it seems like a lot of extra driving, and what would I cut .....aargh. Is there a nature experience, or conservation area worth squeezing in...and again what to cut ? I’d like more countryside rather than all cities, any thoughts on where to do that ?

With accommodation we’ve become more flexible over the years and prefer small, friendly, family run places that are clean, safe and well located. Where have you stayed that you felt comfortable like at home ?

Our main reasons for returning to India ? We love the people, the culture, the history, the built structures and the food. Please share with me any ideas or experiences (like cooking schools, organic farms, animal sanctuaries, tribal villages etc) that you’ve enjoyed. I’ve had some fantastic trips with help from the Fodors crowd, and have high expectations for this one !


Thank you so much.
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Old Jun 24th, 2018, 05:18 AM
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Some places I haven't visited on that list, but I did visit the Shekhawati region, and while I enjoyed it I think four nights might be overdoing it. Also, if I were going to Chandigarh I'd want to take the train up to Shimla.
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Old Jun 24th, 2018, 01:15 PM
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Thanks thursdaysd. That fourth night in Shekhawati is Diwali, my thinking was that after getting to know the area pretty well we might luck in to some celebration. Having said that, wherever we are for Diwali should be colourful, and Indians are usually pretty hospitable.
I’ll investigate the train to Shimla.
Thanks again.
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Old Jun 24th, 2018, 06:45 PM
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I have not visited the cities/towns you have mentioned, thus not much help.

But very excited to note you will spend Diwali in India. It is an amazing festival and families have great celebration for days and days. You can compare the festival to Christmas. But Diwali is very, very colorful, lot of sweets to eat, amazing selection of special foods.

The night celebration is beautiful because every home no matter how small and every building is lit up with candles, or wick lights and in modern times even electric mini lights as are used on the Christmas trees. The poorest of the poor also will put some sort of lights in front of their huts or even their road side dwelling. Truly amazing.
People pray to the goddess of wealth, Laxmi, seeking good fortune in the coming year.
Thus, the entire country is lit up.
So plan for a fun time. Good luck in planning. The weather should be pleasantly warm, not too hot in most places.
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Old Jun 24th, 2018, 09:08 PM
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4 nights in Shekhawati is a bit too long. Bikaner has only the Junagarh Fort & perhaps the Karni Mata Rat Temple, 20 miles towards Jaipur, to attract ones attention. One night is good, unless you are doing a very long drive the previous day. Pushkar is worth two nights if you plan to visit the Pushkar Cattle fair. All in all some regions are less intellectually engaging.
Coming to Punjab and not staying in a Punjabi rural home-stay or a farm, is to miss the very ethos of Punjabi culture which is robust, progressive and extremely hospitable. Remember JD Cunningham called the Sikh peasantry as 'the best the world has seen'!
Happy travels!
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Old Jun 25th, 2018, 04:04 PM
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ileen, I’m so excited to be going there for Diwali (planned it that way) after Diwali in Sri Lanka last year was a let down. Thanks for confirming that it should be magical.

vp_singh, is there a place or area in rural Punjab you could recommend? Nothing in India is booked yet, so I have flexibility to change things around. We likely will spend 2 nights in Pushkar, but about a week before this years camel fair. In Bikaner I’m hoping a camel will take me into the desert, not sure about the rat temple yet.
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Old Jun 25th, 2018, 09:51 PM
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There are several of these in punjab. On the top of my list is Citrus County Farm-stay at Hoshiarpur, which is 70 miles from Amritsar. It is located on a 100-acre kinnow farm. November/December will be picking time for the fruit and you will see some activity on the farm. The nearby village will give you a peep into the Punjabi way of life. You can ride a tractor, indulge in farm activities, meet the village elders, picnic in the forest, as also visit a dairy farm. The accommodation is in deluxe tents and a couple of rooms in the main building. The food is very good. Harkirat the owner & his wife personally look after the guests and that makes a great difference.
However, for those who are in the Punjab in the month of March, it is the Festival of 'Holla Mohalla' at Anandpur Sahib which will give you an idea of the 'spirit of the Khalsa', the robust games, horse-riding, tent-pegging & martial arts, all conducted with spontaneity.
One night in Pushkar is fine, after all it is only a market which is colourful and you could buy a few of the ethnic-mirror work fabric.
As for Bikaner, I have been there on a number of occasions but never tried a camel safari. The best known camel safaris in Rajasthan are in Jaisalmer and Dechu.
Hope it helps.
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Old Jun 26th, 2018, 03:58 AM
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Thanks vp_singh, at AUD $280 per night that one is a bit more than I want to pay. I will keep looking and feel confident I’ll find another closer to my budget. Great to know it will be harvest time, and also the activities likely available. I had to google kinnow, love mandarins.

Sadly I have to save Jaisalmer for another trip, but believe the desert around Bikaner has more plants and critters, we’ll see.

Thanks again for your insight.
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Old Jun 26th, 2018, 08:39 PM
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Harkirat Singh at Citrus County is like all Punjabis & Sikhs, a largehearted gentleman. If you write to him, he will consider reducing the rates. Moreover, the rate includes all meals and activities. Thanks.
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Old Jun 29th, 2018, 01:03 AM
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'Wah' Sartoric back to India, that too during Diwali. Fantastic. The Shekawati region is lovely during that time of the year. Brace for the chill. Often below 10C at night and warm days.Its simply beautiful.


Good suggestion above staying in a farm and experiencing the Punjabi way of life.Citrus County sounds steep.There are others you could take a look here. They seem good and are much closer to the city of Amrisar

https://www.itmenaanlodges.com/punjabiyat/

Farmer's Villa, Farmstay in Amritsar, Punjab Countryside

I've done day trips to Amritsar from Jalandhar and Ludhiana during my earlier visits to the Golden Temple and Jalianwala Bagh,Not really stayed in the city.I didn't think it was worth it either.

The Golden temple, one of the world's holiest shrines is India's most spectacular place of worship in my opinion.Colourful people from all faiths come here to pray and the devotion is intense.You can feel it within. Both men and women are required to wear a scarf over their head,men ,in bandana fashion, leave your shoes behind at the entrance,Wash your feet as you enter and surrender thyself to the almighty.The awesome gold gilted dome of the Harimandir Sahib.Every night, the Granth Sahib the 'Holy Book" is carried in procession along this bridge to the Akal Takht. Its beautiful to experience this. Check for timing.

Well.No soul goes to Punjab without trying the legendary Punjabi fare and come out a satisfied soul.

Once out, hungry I went straight for the divine Amritsari Paratha @ Bhai Kulwant Singh Kulchian Wale,Near the Golden temple, Bazaar Bikaneria. Pure vegetarian because of its proximity to the temple,the Amritsari naan with a dollop of butter and chole ( chickpea curry) is something I would die for.Rick Stein's India featured it.

Of course the Guru ka Langar or the kitchen inside of the Golden temple is a sight to behold .That's if you can muster the courage to handle it.Hundreds of devotees milling and jostling about,a sight to behold. A must visit even if you decide not to eat there.

I you do crave for some good indian meat dishes try Paya curry and Kheema (mince meat) Naan at Pal Da Dhaba near Hathi Gate.The Chicken Tikka Tandoori and Kheema Naan. Amritsari Fish Kebab @ Beera Chicken Corner,Opposite Bandari Hospital.This place lets you BYOB.
​​​​​​​Have fun planning !!
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Old Jun 29th, 2018, 03:26 AM
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I remember staying at Reggie's Camel Camp at Khetasar, Osian between Palodi and Jodhpur. It was 2011.Awesome experience in the Thar desert. Well furnished tents. A great experience.
camel camp,osian,camel safari,jodhpur,tented accommodation,jaipur india,desert rajasthan tour

At Bundi it was the Haveli Katkoun.Good location just below and with great views of the Taragarh Fort which was beautifully lit at night.

Hotel Katkoun Haveli Bundi
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Old Jun 30th, 2018, 05:18 AM
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I was hoping you’d chime in inquest.
Funny, I made Punjabi chickpea chole for dinner tonight ! Still debating on the food at the temple, it would be silly to go all that way and not partake, on the other hand....

Thanks for all the great ideas/links.
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Old Jun 30th, 2018, 05:22 AM
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I ate at the Golden Temple with no ill effects. The food is very basic, vegetarian, and hot (temperature not spice). But I didn't drink the water.
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Old Jun 30th, 2018, 07:45 AM
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Eating at the GT should be fine. It’s cooked and fresh. Get bottled H2O. Also to me seeing it at night all lit up is preferable
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Old Jul 1st, 2018, 11:56 PM
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Eating at the temple langar should be perfectly fine,hygiene-wise, Food is made fresh and and served hot.Its rotis,rice,dal and kheer. A simple fare.Sure is an experience.

The three main towns in the Shekhawati region that have a lot to offer are Fatehpur, Mandawa and Nawalghar. With interesting history most of the havelis were in a dilapidated condition and many in ruins. I'm not sure of the present conditions,though I heard there are restoration happening.Take a look at this place,if you do plan to base yourself in Fatehpur ( as its enroute to Bikaner),which I think would be the most convenient location to tour the region. Haveli Le Prince in Fatehpur.

https://www.leprincehaveli.com/welcome-uk
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Old Jul 5th, 2018, 08:11 PM
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Ohh, thank you again inquest.
One more thing, I’m looking for a guest house or small hotel in New Delhi. We like family run, clean, safe and friendly.
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Old Jul 6th, 2018, 12:33 AM
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Sartoric, I too like to stay in intimate family run establishments,but not home stays where the guests are expected to wine and dine with the host family.That's to intimidating for me I prefer the cosiness of a home without getting my toes trampled upon.Love staying & waking up in the leafy,upscale neighbourhoods of Delhi, to the medley of parakeets, mynahs and bulbuls.
Here are some you could consider,depending on the preferred location/area in Delhi.

Tree of Life
Homestay in Southdelhi | Bed and breakfast in Southdelhi | treeoflife

The State B&B
The Estate BNB | Your residence in New Delhi

Bed & Chai
Bed & Chai Guesthouse - New Delhi - India - Hotel - Bed & Breakfast - Homestay - Inn - Hostel

Thikana
thikanadelhi.com | Boutique Bed and Breakfast Delhi

The Lazy Patio
https://www.facebook.com/Thelazypatio/

Lutyen's Bungalow
Lutyens Bungalow - Home

Chhoti Haveli
https://www.chhotihaveli.com/

Scarlette
scarlette new delhi ? A charming and intimate « Maison d?hôtes » in the middle of south Delhi

Colonel's Retreat
Colonel's Retreat, New Delhi

On the House
Bed & Breakfast in Delhi

Chateau 39
A39, Oberoi Apartments, 2 Shamanth Marg, Civil Lines, New Delhi, Delhi 100054
Mobile:+91 098105 74950

Prakash Kutir
A-34, Hauz Khas, New Delhi – 110016, India
[email protected]

Goodluck
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Old Jul 6th, 2018, 08:59 PM
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I have stayed in many Guest Houses in New Delhi, some are good, some mediocre & some pretty bad. Most of the budget places in Pahar Ganj area fall in the last category. The only exception is Florence Inn which is a good budget hotel, a wee bit more than a GH, and offers fine food in a small well-decorated restaurant, with 24 hours service..
Another GH which I consider a good, clean place is Saket B&B. They are very foreign tourist friendly as well. Saket is close to Qutab Minar.
Don't get carried away by the names of posh localities. I have seen some poor accommodation in these areas as well.
Happy hunting!
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Old Jul 7th, 2018, 07:09 PM
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Thank you both, so many choices !
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Old Jul 8th, 2018, 10:24 PM
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Sartoric, i've been meaning to here, and will do within a few days with other thoughts.

Great guesthouse reccos from Inquest, based on my personal experience of two o his list.

Tree of Life is a guest house , not a true homestay, but the owners are nearby (they might live in the flat below where the guest house is)--you will meet Ashwani (the owner) for sure. I stayed there about 4.5 yrs ago. Loved it! Here's my review on TA. It includes photos

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUser...ml#UR184441569

Chhoti Haveli, which I also loved, is much smaller and thus "cozier"---maybe three rooms total, on one level. The owners, who are delightful, live on the floor below. It is close to the airport but in a leafy suburb near a local park. The only drawback here is that walking distance public transport as close as at Tree of Life, but Surinder will help arrange the best possible deal for a cab.
Here is my TA review of Chhoti Havelii:

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUser..._of_Delhi.html

Thikkana is one Tim likes and has recommended for years, but I've never stayed there. Can't recall why---perhaps a bit pricer ? Ccompare $$ of course, but know that the price of good accommodation in New Delhi won't be super "budget level". I'd expect (it's four yrs since I've been) that $100 USD is likely.

Will write soon with thoughts on Amritsar and Jaipur. You asked in a previous thread about this upcoming trip, when it was in the "nebulous" stage. I can't find the questions now, but made a few recommendations at the time for Amritsar However, I cant recall what they were !
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