Sri Lanka Just Back
Dec 6th, 2007 | 01:59 PM
#1
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 22
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Sri Lanka Just Back
Hi. My husband and I just returned from Sri Lanka. We spent 8 days there on a whirlwind schedule and even
though it was hectic, we had a wonderful time.
One of the first things that impressed us was how clean the island is. Little or no trash along the sides of the roads; homes and yards generally neat and tidy -even used car part lots were well organized and orderly looking.
The roads however are terrible most everywhere except in Colombo where the roads are better but there is horrible traffic. As has been posted here many times, it takes a long time to get around and at least a day to acclimatize to the crazy driving techniques and customs ("pass at all cost" - those of you who have been to Sri Lanka will know what I mean).
The people were wonderful - friendly, kind and polite.
Everywhere we went people were helpful and interested in the fact that we were Americans...the place is not exactly over run by us Yanks. The majority of the English speaking tourists we ran across were Brits.
Sri Lanka is an incredible bargain. We were on a low cost tour arranged by Tangerine Tours and got great value for our money - a great driver, good car, excellent hotels and decent food. Tangerine Tours were excellent to deal with. My emails were answered promptly and they gave good advice about what to include in the itinerary. I recommend the company and would use them again.
Most of the major sights have been decently reviewed by others in particular Kathie (such a wonderful, complete travel account) so I'm not going to repeat. Our travels included the Elephant Orphanage which she missed so I will comment on that. The visit was great and we did have a chance to see the elephants in the river, bathing, playing around and generally having a good time. One of them is missing a foot, lost to a land mine. You can walk right up to them and the mahoots encourage you to touch them, pose for pictures etc. I tipped each mahoot a couple of dollars and got grumbles from them. One outright asked for $20.00. I don't know if this is typical - just what we experienced.
I have a caution to offer on the "guides" at Sigiriya. Our private guide warned us about these free-lancers that hang about the places where people are likely to start climbing up. They will, uninvited, help you on your way and in fact, will walk along holding your arm, helping you up stairs etc. Our guide said that at the end, after the descent, they can be very demanding about compensation demanding 40 or 50 dollars from people. The climb is arduous and this help may be very worthwhile for some, however these
free lancers make it appear that they are just helping out; are park employees or somehow authorized to help. It could be quite a surprise and disconcerting to be confronted with an aggressive demand for services! Either ask them what they charge for their help up front so that it is clear or tell them No, in no uncertain terms. The touts in Sri Lanka are omnipresent, but most backed off quickly if you were clear about not wanting them around. If you do decide you are interested in wares being sold by touts, be advised that their opening prices are usually ridiculously high.
The only other unsatisfactory exerience we had was on a spice garden tour at Regent Spice Garden. We expected it to be culinary but it turned out to be mostly ayurvedic applications (creams, essences, tonics) made with the spices that they were touting/selling. The chap that took us through claimed that he had a couple of years of medical school, a couple of years of Ayurvedic medical school and that his grandparents and parents were doctors; then he introduced us to many potions making outrageous claims (like you used to see in the back of cheap magazines before the FDA clamped down) - hair regrowth, bust increaser, cellulite remover, weight loss. Even if you do believe in these claims if you purchase anything (I bought a jar of aloe vera cream as we were heading for Male and possible sunburn),
the jars have false bottoms...the contents were about 1/2 of what they appeared to be. As the prices of these potions are outrageous - to find oneself duped
with this old ploy, was insulting. Once you realize that you've been cheated at this level, you wonder totally about the contents of the jars. There are no ingredient declarations and of course, no net weight statements. They give you a little brochure which elaborates on the outrageous claims they make orally. My advice would be to steer clear of these places. It really surprised us to see Europeans carting off thousands of dollars worth of these materials.
Another spot we visited that Kathy didn't is Bundala National park. We were scheduled for Yala but it was the one spot that was closed because of security and not scheduled to re-open until later in December; A safari was arranged for us and it turned out to be a very pleasant experience. A trekker rode along in the car with us and spotted the birds and other wildlife. We had a vehicle with an open back that you could stand up in, take photos and enjoy the passing show.
About food: Most of the hotels included buffet meal service as Kathie has reported. I too, dislike this kind of food as much for the food safety (or lack thereof) as anything else. However, most of the buffet experiences we had were pretty good (specially considering that we were staying at much lower end hotels than Kathie). The food was moving quickly enough that it maintained safe temperatures. Buffets were good at Cinnamon Gardens and at the Raj in Colombo. At Elephant Reach we had a delightful surprise with the food, which was not buffet. They gave us a choice of three entrees at dinner and much to our surprise, out came gorgeously plated meals of very high quality. Breakfast was equally wonderful. We give them very, very high marks on their food.
Be wary of the seafood meals along the coast...they can be awfully over-priced. We did have a great grilled shrimp dinner at a totally odd ball spot in Negombo called Honky Tonky Two. Because of the testimonials in the menu, we decided to try it and we were most pleasantly surprised by the attention that had been paid to the flavors of both shrimp and rice, simple food made extraordinary because of a deft hand and talented palate at work behind the scenes.
I hope this report doesn't sound too negative because overall, we loved Sri Lanka and will likely make another trip to spend more time and see the spots
we missed this time. I'm offering tips here to help other to perhaps avoid a surprise, but 99% of our experiences were positive.
Thanks to all on this forum who posted information - it was very helping for planning.
Helen
though it was hectic, we had a wonderful time.
One of the first things that impressed us was how clean the island is. Little or no trash along the sides of the roads; homes and yards generally neat and tidy -even used car part lots were well organized and orderly looking.
The roads however are terrible most everywhere except in Colombo where the roads are better but there is horrible traffic. As has been posted here many times, it takes a long time to get around and at least a day to acclimatize to the crazy driving techniques and customs ("pass at all cost" - those of you who have been to Sri Lanka will know what I mean).
The people were wonderful - friendly, kind and polite.
Everywhere we went people were helpful and interested in the fact that we were Americans...the place is not exactly over run by us Yanks. The majority of the English speaking tourists we ran across were Brits.
Sri Lanka is an incredible bargain. We were on a low cost tour arranged by Tangerine Tours and got great value for our money - a great driver, good car, excellent hotels and decent food. Tangerine Tours were excellent to deal with. My emails were answered promptly and they gave good advice about what to include in the itinerary. I recommend the company and would use them again.
Most of the major sights have been decently reviewed by others in particular Kathie (such a wonderful, complete travel account) so I'm not going to repeat. Our travels included the Elephant Orphanage which she missed so I will comment on that. The visit was great and we did have a chance to see the elephants in the river, bathing, playing around and generally having a good time. One of them is missing a foot, lost to a land mine. You can walk right up to them and the mahoots encourage you to touch them, pose for pictures etc. I tipped each mahoot a couple of dollars and got grumbles from them. One outright asked for $20.00. I don't know if this is typical - just what we experienced.
I have a caution to offer on the "guides" at Sigiriya. Our private guide warned us about these free-lancers that hang about the places where people are likely to start climbing up. They will, uninvited, help you on your way and in fact, will walk along holding your arm, helping you up stairs etc. Our guide said that at the end, after the descent, they can be very demanding about compensation demanding 40 or 50 dollars from people. The climb is arduous and this help may be very worthwhile for some, however these
free lancers make it appear that they are just helping out; are park employees or somehow authorized to help. It could be quite a surprise and disconcerting to be confronted with an aggressive demand for services! Either ask them what they charge for their help up front so that it is clear or tell them No, in no uncertain terms. The touts in Sri Lanka are omnipresent, but most backed off quickly if you were clear about not wanting them around. If you do decide you are interested in wares being sold by touts, be advised that their opening prices are usually ridiculously high.
The only other unsatisfactory exerience we had was on a spice garden tour at Regent Spice Garden. We expected it to be culinary but it turned out to be mostly ayurvedic applications (creams, essences, tonics) made with the spices that they were touting/selling. The chap that took us through claimed that he had a couple of years of medical school, a couple of years of Ayurvedic medical school and that his grandparents and parents were doctors; then he introduced us to many potions making outrageous claims (like you used to see in the back of cheap magazines before the FDA clamped down) - hair regrowth, bust increaser, cellulite remover, weight loss. Even if you do believe in these claims if you purchase anything (I bought a jar of aloe vera cream as we were heading for Male and possible sunburn),
the jars have false bottoms...the contents were about 1/2 of what they appeared to be. As the prices of these potions are outrageous - to find oneself duped
with this old ploy, was insulting. Once you realize that you've been cheated at this level, you wonder totally about the contents of the jars. There are no ingredient declarations and of course, no net weight statements. They give you a little brochure which elaborates on the outrageous claims they make orally. My advice would be to steer clear of these places. It really surprised us to see Europeans carting off thousands of dollars worth of these materials.
Another spot we visited that Kathy didn't is Bundala National park. We were scheduled for Yala but it was the one spot that was closed because of security and not scheduled to re-open until later in December; A safari was arranged for us and it turned out to be a very pleasant experience. A trekker rode along in the car with us and spotted the birds and other wildlife. We had a vehicle with an open back that you could stand up in, take photos and enjoy the passing show.
About food: Most of the hotels included buffet meal service as Kathie has reported. I too, dislike this kind of food as much for the food safety (or lack thereof) as anything else. However, most of the buffet experiences we had were pretty good (specially considering that we were staying at much lower end hotels than Kathie). The food was moving quickly enough that it maintained safe temperatures. Buffets were good at Cinnamon Gardens and at the Raj in Colombo. At Elephant Reach we had a delightful surprise with the food, which was not buffet. They gave us a choice of three entrees at dinner and much to our surprise, out came gorgeously plated meals of very high quality. Breakfast was equally wonderful. We give them very, very high marks on their food.
Be wary of the seafood meals along the coast...they can be awfully over-priced. We did have a great grilled shrimp dinner at a totally odd ball spot in Negombo called Honky Tonky Two. Because of the testimonials in the menu, we decided to try it and we were most pleasantly surprised by the attention that had been paid to the flavors of both shrimp and rice, simple food made extraordinary because of a deft hand and talented palate at work behind the scenes.
I hope this report doesn't sound too negative because overall, we loved Sri Lanka and will likely make another trip to spend more time and see the spots
we missed this time. I'm offering tips here to help other to perhaps avoid a surprise, but 99% of our experiences were positive.
Thanks to all on this forum who posted information - it was very helping for planning.
Helen
Dec 7th, 2007 | 12:32 AM
#5
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,897
Likes: 0
Helen, great report. Thanks for posting. Its nice to get another perspective in preparing for our February trip.
We are also scheduled to visit Yala, although the safari company we have been hooked up with could do one for us anywhere. I notice that Bundala (located on the coast just south of Yala, Kathie) is relatively small compared to Yala. Did you feel confined by this limited area? Also, was there any indication that Yala would be open any time soon? We are also looking at Ula Walawe National Park as an alternative but understand that Yala is still the best place to view leopards.
We are also scheduled to visit Yala, although the safari company we have been hooked up with could do one for us anywhere. I notice that Bundala (located on the coast just south of Yala, Kathie) is relatively small compared to Yala. Did you feel confined by this limited area? Also, was there any indication that Yala would be open any time soon? We are also looking at Ula Walawe National Park as an alternative but understand that Yala is still the best place to view leopards.
Dec 7th, 2007 | 10:30 AM
#6
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
Hi all...
Airlines: We went to Sri Lanka via Hanoi where we attended a wedding. The least expensive routing I could find was Thai to Bangkok and then Sri Lankan air to Colombo. A long layover in Bangkok but hundreds cheaper than the alternatives.
When we showed up for our Sri Lankan flight I learned a little about fine print. There was a notice on the print-out for the ticket confirmation that you must have the original credit card that you use for the ticket in your possession at flight time. I neglected to notice this and we did not have the credit card. Even though the charge had already cleared and been paid, even though we had all necessary identification and could even quote the credit card number, bureaucrats to the bitter end, they refused to let us use the tickets. We had to re-purchase them and apply for a refund on line. I've since learned that some of the other smaller Asian airlines have the same requirement.
Left Luggage: After our time in Sri Lanka, we flew to the Maldives for r and r. Somehow, we'd spread out from our usual rollaboard each and acquired an extra bag - stuff from Hanoi. Not necessary for the four days of snorkeling and reading ahead, we decided to
check it. Turned out a padlock was necessary. Most left luggage places make you keep the bags unlocked for security. Oh well...we were able to purchase a lock in the airport - a lock just like the one I had on my diary when I was nine and really had some juicy things to keep secret. The lock was so small that manipulating the key was impossible for a man - but it fit into the zipper spot and they had to accept it.
Fine print working to our benefit this time.....the regs didn't say how big or how secure. Hoist by the proverbial petard, they had to accept it and we all had a good laugh.
Bundala: The park seemed large enough for us. We may have back-tracked over the same roads but we were so busy gawking at the crocodiles, elephants,
flamingos, herons, monkeys, huge iguana, parrots, bee eaters, jungle fowl, peacocks and other birds, that we didn't notice. Several hours was plenty for us, but we did not have the safari as a big deal on our list - it more than met our expectations.
We heard that Yala would be re-opening in December so Craig, you should be OK unless they have more trouble in the area. Incidentally we were not warned off Anuradhapura as Kathie was. It's a great site, but
you really have to do some advance reading in order to get the most out of it and you probably should have enough time for the museum. We read the bit in our guide books and it sounds fascinating but there's really not much left there to see and we didn't have the time for the museum. Frankly, I would like to have spent more time at Polonnaruwa and now that my interest has been piqued, will read more on the ancient cities overall
Here's the oldest travel tip in the world. Have some toilet paper handy at all times. One forgets that there are still places where you won't find this convenience...for instance some wc's in the Colombo airport.
Helen
Airlines: We went to Sri Lanka via Hanoi where we attended a wedding. The least expensive routing I could find was Thai to Bangkok and then Sri Lankan air to Colombo. A long layover in Bangkok but hundreds cheaper than the alternatives.
When we showed up for our Sri Lankan flight I learned a little about fine print. There was a notice on the print-out for the ticket confirmation that you must have the original credit card that you use for the ticket in your possession at flight time. I neglected to notice this and we did not have the credit card. Even though the charge had already cleared and been paid, even though we had all necessary identification and could even quote the credit card number, bureaucrats to the bitter end, they refused to let us use the tickets. We had to re-purchase them and apply for a refund on line. I've since learned that some of the other smaller Asian airlines have the same requirement.
Left Luggage: After our time in Sri Lanka, we flew to the Maldives for r and r. Somehow, we'd spread out from our usual rollaboard each and acquired an extra bag - stuff from Hanoi. Not necessary for the four days of snorkeling and reading ahead, we decided to
check it. Turned out a padlock was necessary. Most left luggage places make you keep the bags unlocked for security. Oh well...we were able to purchase a lock in the airport - a lock just like the one I had on my diary when I was nine and really had some juicy things to keep secret. The lock was so small that manipulating the key was impossible for a man - but it fit into the zipper spot and they had to accept it.
Fine print working to our benefit this time.....the regs didn't say how big or how secure. Hoist by the proverbial petard, they had to accept it and we all had a good laugh.
Bundala: The park seemed large enough for us. We may have back-tracked over the same roads but we were so busy gawking at the crocodiles, elephants,
flamingos, herons, monkeys, huge iguana, parrots, bee eaters, jungle fowl, peacocks and other birds, that we didn't notice. Several hours was plenty for us, but we did not have the safari as a big deal on our list - it more than met our expectations.
We heard that Yala would be re-opening in December so Craig, you should be OK unless they have more trouble in the area. Incidentally we were not warned off Anuradhapura as Kathie was. It's a great site, but
you really have to do some advance reading in order to get the most out of it and you probably should have enough time for the museum. We read the bit in our guide books and it sounds fascinating but there's really not much left there to see and we didn't have the time for the museum. Frankly, I would like to have spent more time at Polonnaruwa and now that my interest has been piqued, will read more on the ancient cities overall
Here's the oldest travel tip in the world. Have some toilet paper handy at all times. One forgets that there are still places where you won't find this convenience...for instance some wc's in the Colombo airport.
Helen
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Dec 7th, 2007 | 02:19 PM
#8
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,288
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Thanks for the additional info. Yes, we wree unlucky to be in the ancient cities area at the wrong time. We met somoen who went to Anuradhapura maybe a week after we were in the area. I also heard that Yala would be re-opening later in December, so hopefully, Craig and Jeanne will be fine to go there.
And thanks for the credit card warning - one of those fine print things I've not run into!
And thanks for the credit card warning - one of those fine print things I've not run into!
Dec 7th, 2007 | 03:12 PM
#9
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 744
Likes: 0
Hi foodsmarts, assuming you're American, maybe you can tell me what travel insurance you used? I am trying to get info. about insurance for countries where State Dept. has issued travel warning and Sri Lanka is one of them.
thanks!
thanks!
Dec 13th, 2007 | 04:01 PM
#10
Original Poster
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 22
Likes: 0
We stayed at Bandos Island in the Maldives in a upgraded room. Very nice - walked right out of our room onto a beautiful beach and there's snorkeling
right there on the reef. Food wasn't particularly good and I wouldn't go full board next time...half board is a better choice.
We picked Bandos because the price is reasonable for that area and the resort is only a short speed boat ride from the airport in Male.
We do not buy travel insurance so I'm no help there.
right there on the reef. Food wasn't particularly good and I wouldn't go full board next time...half board is a better choice.
We picked Bandos because the price is reasonable for that area and the resort is only a short speed boat ride from the airport in Male.
We do not buy travel insurance so I'm no help there.
