This report covers our first trip to Asia....and includes Bangkok (5nts) Koh Lanta (4 nts) Siem Reap, Cambodia (4 nts), Vietnam: Hanoi (4nts) Halong Bay (1 nt) Hue (2 nts) Hoi An (3 nts) Saigon (2 nts) Mekong River cruise (1 nt) and Bali: Seminyak (2 nts) and Ubud (6nts). Thanks to all the Fodorites who answered my many questions and gave great advice.

My husband and I (me....mid 50's...he later 60's) arrived on time in Bangkok on March 31, via Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific. I'm not sure their self-reclining seats live up to the hype, but they sure beat any American airline....full flight...guess the protests haven''t affected these flights yet. Our anti-jet lag tactic of staying up all night until 7am (body time) we left LA at midnight.....and then we tried to sleep for 7 hrs, helped us adjust to local time with little jet lag....also took the anti-jet lag pillls, homeopathic from NZ.
Arranged driver thru Tong to pick us up....shouldn't have bothered. We actually had to walk pretty far to another gate to meet him, then because he had a van whose height couldn't fit in the parking structure, we had to walk pretty far to a surface lot....and it was already mighty hot at 11am.....and no cold towel or water offered. Should have taken AOT or even just a regular taxi.

Arrived at our refuge, the Peninsula Hotel, and wasn't crazy about our grand deluxe room because it wrapped around the side of the hotel, and the main window was smack in front of a huge construction tower project with cranes....and no bump out floor to ceiling window like pictured on website.

I have to say, service has nver been real high on my list of needs, but I was expecting much from the previous comments about the Peninsula. Overall, I'd say is was good but not outstanding. The check in person thought I was checking out a day earlier, seemed confused about getting us a room...no fruit plate in room although it was clear the set up was there, etc.

Anyway, we went to the Spa for massages....I tried Thai and my husband, Swedish and they were easily the best massages we've ever had. However, they were pricey, $120 for an hour and20 min...but the hotel had given us discount vouchers which took $18 off the price. We thought it was worth it after such a long flight.
Just ate dinner at Thriptara, their Thai restaurant, in a lovely setting along the river, but the food was good but unremarkable. Stayed awake until 9:30pm which was good and slept in the most comfortable bed/pillow ever until 5:30am.

Forgot to mention, following our massages, I asked for a different room and they gave me one with more of a forward view of the river on the 27th floor so I was happy.

Next am., savored their wonderful breakfast buffet seated right along the river...just don't order eggs benedit. We got there about 6:30am and it was already very warm.

Lily, our guide arranged thru Tong, met us in the lobby at 8am, and we were off via the river boats to the Grand Palace comples. We spent a lot fime there and LIly expained a lot about color signficance, styles of Buddhas, and the Ramayana story which was depicted in many bas reliefs....we grew to be very tired of this story ( also heard a lot of it in Angkor Wat comlex) Just when we thouht we'd pass out from the heat....we left for a canal tour along Klong Mon on a private long tail boat that she grabbed. Then, we went to Wat Pho and saw the huge reclining buddha. By this time, we needed lunch....se we asked to go to the Coconut Palm, which Tong has recommended in the past. Took a short Tuk Tuk ride there....food ws OK. Then, I wanted to go to Vinmarek, the largest teak mansion, included with our Grand Palace ticket. Lily said we'd have to be a little "brave" because the red shirts were near there. We took a taxi, and she waited while we went with a tour group, which was in Thai, so the tour wasn't that great. Still nice to see. She seemed surprised we weren't with an English speaking group, but maybe she could have ensured that? After, we were spent, but she insisted we go to another property in Dusit Park, which contained incredible treasures. I believe it was called the Throne room buildng inside all carrera marble, handpainted frescoes on the domed ceiling, and yes, gorgeous gold and jewelled, howdahs, palanquines, and ships. Stunning....she waitin ourtside while we toured. If we hadn't been so beat, we would have spent more time there. So it was now 4:30pm...and she grabbed us a taxi to take us back to the Penisula boat dock...and she jumped out along the way.

Overall, she helped us adjust to our first day in Thailand....was very efficient if not very warm....and told us enough about what we were seeing.

That night, we ate dinner in Mai Jiang, the chinese restaurant in the Peninsula..very expensive and some things were great, others not so much. Think it would be better for their dim sum lunch.

View of river and lights of Bangkok were gorgeous from our room and we enjoyed a good sleep, not bothered by jet lag.

Will write more later (we're currently in Siem Reap), but if I had to do it over again...I'd never come here in April....the heat takes it's toll and I'm from southern Florida....thought it wouldn't bother me this much.

Many thanks for such a wonderful report! Looking forward to your next installments. Have a great time!

Cheers

Looking forward to more...

In Bangkok, you can get proper THAI massages for a lot less that. You paid US$ 120 for 80 minutes...??

Try a place away from high priced hotels, and you get 2 hours for about 500 baht or so, even less. I never paid anywhere near that in Bangkok. Stay away from hotel massage service, unless you want to throw your money away.

You say potato, gearsau.

I've paid 500 baht for good Thai massage in Bangkok and I've also paid over $100 for a massage at the Peninsula.

Sorry, but the Peninsula is the BEST massage I've ever had--and I've many all over the world. Cheap places certainly serve a purpose and I've enjoyed many a cheap Thai massage with no frills and walked away happy. But the massage at the Pen is much more than just a massage...and well worth every penny of the experience.

Next time, try not to judge people based on what they spend. Value is all in the eye on the beholder.

Looking forward to hearing more, barefoot...

I am so impressed by your first day -- bravo !!

great start....anxious to read more...

i'm glad you asked for another room at the penn.. the only negetive i have ever experienced at the penn is with the front desk... they often seem a bit confused, but i find the rest of the hotel more than makes up for that less than perfect situation, and there is no brown water....

tong's van has always picked us up right at the sidewalk....perhaps it was a new or different driver....??

there is no hotter month than april....next time pick november/december when it is more comfortable....

Nice job, barefoot - keep it coming.

We found the construction near the Penn disappointing as it will now block the view on that side of the hotel. Sounds like they might have tried to "upgrade" you to a balcony room? - glad you were able to change.

With the exception of the fabulous buffet breakfasts, we have also found dining at the Penn to be just average and overpriced. What was wrong with the eggs Benedict?

We had a good day with Lily back in February at Tong's "secret" fishing village...

Glad to hear from you, barefoot. I'm enjoying your report.

Nice title. It made me feel sticky just to read it. Keep it coming. No penalty.

Enjoying your very Hot report!

To Filmwill,

I wasn't trying to judge barefootbeach on what she spent for a massage, I was merely stating that a good THAI massage can be obtained for a lot less than US $ 102 at a hotel in Bangkok.

Perhaps you should re-read my comment.

<<You paid US$ 120 for 80 minutes...??>>

So that was just your way of saying 'that's great that you spent that much'? Or maybe it was telling her that she was "throwing [her] money away"...? Hmm.

Anyway, back to the OP's trip report.

Thanks for the encouraging remarks. Yes, we knew the massage was expensive by Thai standards, but when you've basically been traveling for a day, you don't want to go out searching for value..and yes, the spa surroundings contribute to the wonderful experience.

The eggs benedict was not made to order...and the sauce kind of sat coagulated on top.

They did try to upgrade us to a balcony room for $50 more a night at first....but the room we changed to was mext to the balcony rooms, so it wasn't the best of the grand deluxe rooms since it still angled in a bit to the other rooms. So anybody, ask for a room on the left side of the Pen (from the inside perspective)

That's how my Eggs bennie came at the Oriental,lol. The heat is oppressive even for me too and look where I live. Seek the AC and a cool towel around your neck every hour or more
Am loving this report and following along,it sounds like you travel like me.

Aloha!

i actually like rooms on both sides, but not near to the front (river) as you get that angle effect....a long look up or down the river is special...

Our second big day in Bangkok dawns early again....it's easy to get up at 5:30am. Today we master the SkyTrain. So reasonable...an all day pass is just $3. Someone had said how freezing cold it is, so we pack a light windbreaker. What a laugh! It's the only place that we dry off a bit between drenched sweating. Funny, we talked to several people from Hong Kong and they don't think it's humid at all! They've come here for the Easter holidays because the weather is more pleasant...amazing! Remind me never to go to HK at this time of year.
We head out for Suan Packard Palace..a long skytrain ride away, but we master the transfer at Siam. We had to go along with a lady for a too long tour...the Lacquer House was worth it but the collection of seashells, pottery & musical instruments not so much. So, we didn't get to the Jim Thompson House until about 11am...and had to wait for an English tour until 11:45am...so were ""forced" to visit the gift shop...lots of stuff I wanted but decided we'd better visit the outlet first. Loved the tour and ate lunch at the very busy cafe....right next to the koi and lily pond, but should've gone into the a/c restaurant. Needed a cooling.

So, I scrappped my plans to visit the main shopping area (bad idea, it turned out) and instead, headed out on the skytrain to find the JIm Thompson outlet. I thought I could walk from there, but we got turned around in the wrong direction, took a taxi, and he went in the wrong direction for awhile...finally found the outlet...but didn't get there until about 4pm. Loved the deals but didn't see a couple of things I wanted from the main shop. Got some cute purses, a linen shirt for my husband, a tshirt for me and lipstick cases, a baby tshirt...all for 50% off. Didn't see any home furnishing stuff I liked though.

We had planned to eat at Tounge Thai tonight, before going to the Calypso Cabaret...but by the time we got back to the Pen and cleaned up, it was time to go. Just snacked on the delicious ice cream they have in the sundry shop at the Pen...and the great fruit plate they provide daily in your room. Plus, we have really lost our appetite here...don't know if it's a jet lag effect or the heat.

I thought the Calypso Cabaret was great fun...the skytrain drops you off right at the Asia Hotel, so it was so convenient. We had the best seats B1 & 2, which were first row and center (bought them way in advance over the internet) so my husband got to be the adoring oject of the "clownish'woman's" affection. The show was much more elegant and restrained than I expected, with a few exceptions, but I still didn't think it suitable for young children, of which there were many. The "women"were truly beautiful, and my husband could not believe that they had been guys...albeit surgically altered.

Got back about 9:30 and had a delicious cheeseburger and wine in the Bar area. By the way, I thought we wouldn't be drinking any wine here because of high prices, but I thought the wines by the glass were reasonable. Still, we drank a lot of delicious Singha beer, which seemed to go better with the food.

OK, I'll continue until I run out of time...we're being taken to the airport to head for Hanoi at 4pm.

Our third day in Bangkok, the Sat. before Easter, and we start off hot & sunny, eating out along the river again. They keep trying to seat us in the shade, but at this time of am I want to be right next to the river to watch the boat parades. I really love their whole wheat croissants, and delicious mango, the dragonfruit (had to ask the guy next to me on the plane what it was...had never seen white fruit with black polka dots before)jack fruit and pomelo were just OK...also liked the papaya and watermelon. Rose apple was pretty good, another first, and liked the pear/apple thing that I don't know the name of. My big disappointment was that mangosteen is out of season, and I was told that's the king of fruits. Did try lychee and rambotan, but they were in a compote style.

So, today our big plans were to visit the flower market in Chinatown by boat and then see what the big Shopping malls looked like..like Gaysorn & Siam Paragon, before our afternoon cooking class at Blue Elephant

It seems like it takes longer to get places than I expect...and while I wouldn't have traded staying at the Pen,
it did sometimes add a bit to your journey depending on how long you had to wait for the "right" boat. So, it seemed to take a long time to get to the flower market, and of course, we got lost first going thru the vegetable market of Chinatown...unbelivable beautifully fresh veggies and tons of them. When we finally found the flowers, I was disappointed....most already wrapped in newspaper, but it was interesting to watch them make the intricate offering little wreaths. But, I've seen better flower markets elsewhere. While we're there, there's a big racket of honking horns, and a bunch of redshirts ride thru on motorcyles. I know they talked about a "surprise" today, but this doesn't seem to be it.
Then of course we got a little lost getting back to the boat dock. My husband has a little handheld GPS that annoys the heck out of me, because he's always fiddling with it and I claim he looks more at that than where he is...which he denies...but now I'm digressing. Anyway, he says he knows just how to get back but it doesn't seem right to me...so we follow that course for awhile until he realizes it's set on where we started out from the Pen...duh...technology is only as good as the user!
So to make a long story short, we don't get to the shopping area until about 11am. which I realize doesn't give me much time for shopping, so we'll probably just grab a bit in the food markets. However, when we alight from the Skytrain...we realize the streets below are teaming with red shirts as far as we can see...with much noise and music. Hmm...my mission was to avoid them large crowds like the plague and now we're just above them. So, we're crossing over the skywalk towards Gaysorn and an official is closing it off. We go down near the Intercontinental Hotela and duck into Gaysorn's. It's like a ghost town in there. We grab a gelato (the heat is making us peckish) look around a bit, and realize they're closing the mall. So, we head back to the Intercontintental thru a side entrance...and try to figure out how to leave this mess and get back of the Skytrain. I ask a desk clerk how to get back, and she nervously says she'll walk us....so we leave the hotel and walk amoung the protesters for about a block and a half, until we can climb back up. The protester's look like they're having a good time, but seeing all the police and military lined up makes us nervous.

Back on the cool Skytrain, we head for the Shangr-la and have lunch there. We had considered staying there instead of the Pen, and I'm so glad we didn't. It had a "group" feel to it, and in fact, we couldn't eat lunch in the a/c cafe because a big group was using it. So, sweated again outside.

We enjoyed the afternoon cooking class at the Blue Elephant restaurant...the old house was beautiful, the two chef instructors were fun, and we made five things. However, while the demonstrations were in a classroom type setting and a/c'd....the cooking stations in another room was sweltering....I felt like a true working chef as my sweat dripped into the fook I was cooking. Luckily, we all ate our own prepared food. My husband thought he'd be the only guy there, but in fact, the men outnumbered the women. Basically, all the ingredients were mostly laid out and prepped before each dish was prepared, but we did some chopping and mashing in a mortle and pestle....and then, cooked everything is a stainless steel wok over a burner. They deepfried the fish we used in a spicy mango salad w/ cashew nuts ahead of time, and baked the jasmine cake we made, along with crispy spring rols with crab,Massaman curry with chicken, and prawns with chile sauce. Afterward, we all went downstairs in the dining room to eat our creations, which weren't hot by that time. They also gave us aprons and a gift with spices, and curry paste.

Then, we rushed back to the Pen again to get ready to see Siam Niramit, the huge spectacular cultural show. This time, we had to take a boat, skytrain, subway and taxi to get to the show. It took a full hour, which meant we were late ane missed the shuttle van provided. Although the staging and costumes were beautiful, for some reason I was not engaged...and kept nodding off. In hindsight, I would've skipped this...not worth the journey, altho it would be good for kids.

Easter Sunday...this is our day of rest. We finally get to use their beautiful pool! Laid out in the sun for short bursts, then in the pool. Thought about doing a Sunday brunch, but again...little appetite.
Tonight, we tried to go to the Sky Bar for a cocktail. I knew they didn't allow sandals, which I interpreted as flip flops, but my husband got turned away wearing leather Mephisto fishermen style sandals, with linen slacks & a shirt...you could hardly see any bare skin with those, but they said he had to have socks on.
So, we went to dinner early at Baan Klang Nam, an excellent seafood rest. south of the main boat dock on the river...about a 15 min. taxi ride. We were the only non-Asians there, and it was packed, so you know it was good. You eat outside on a deck....& prices weren't bad. Tomorrow we head off to Koh Lanta.