rkkwan's Honeymoon to Kyushu
Jan 28th, 2013, 05:52 PM
#41
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Sorry for the delay. Busy over the weekend and having a dental surgery done. Continuing on...
Jan 1, 2013 New Year's Day
After a great night sleep, and we headed up to the main restaurant in Sankara for our breakfast. It's buffet, with made-to-order eggs, plus a platter of Japanese breakfast items. Buffet has both western and Japanese items as well, and their baked goods were phenomenal.
Following the advice of our butler, Aki-San, we decided to go hiking at Yakusugi Land at the end of one of the few roads into the mountain, elevation of about 1,000m, and about an hour drive from our hotel (or 45 minutes from Anbo, where we stopped for some pictures). The road was probably used for lodging in the old days, and part of it quite narrow (and being widened). We started to see the indigenous Yaku Macaque monkeys along the roadside, and when we got up to the parking area, there was a young Yakushima Deer (Yakushika) hanging around. Not afraid of humans, we took a bunch of pictures of it (more about it later). We are now in Hayao Miyazaki's "Princess Mononoke" environ.
Yakusugi Land is a small area inside the National Park as well as the UNESCO World Heritage site, that is better maintained with well-marked trails for the casual hikers and visitors. Fee is a very modest 300¥, and bathroom at the visitor center is 100¥ donation. There are 4 marked trail-loops, for 30, 50, 80 and 150-minute hikes. The first two loops are much easier, but since we had the time, we chose the 150-minute one. Busy taking photos of the cedar forest and the streams and suspension bridge, I forgot to check our GPS for altitude, but I suspected we climbed for about 200-300m at the top. With a break for snack, it actually took us about 210 minutes to finish the 150-minute hike. Very well worth the trip.
When we got back to the parking lot, we saw that young deer again. We figured that it couldn't have been lost, but was probably orphaned and were fed by the park rangers/workers, and actually live right there and become a mascot for the park.
Tired but very happy, we drove back to Sankara for a Thai massage. They had emailed me information about their spa, but we didn't commit until arrival. They actually had very experienced Thai masseurs on premise at that time doing training. My first time having an authentic Thai massage (where I was bent into a pretzel), and it was awesome. Cost was a very reasonable 16,900¥ per person for 90 minutes, but in reality it went for almost 2 hours.
Dinner was at the main restaurant with 4-course casual French, and included in the room rate. One choose from one of 5 appetizers, soup or a pasta, about 10 entrees, and 5 desserts. Some of the items have extra - like the 880¥ soufflé I ordered. Again, drinks are fairly expensive - 2 glasses of red and a beer cost 4,400¥.
Jan 1, 2013 New Year's Day
After a great night sleep, and we headed up to the main restaurant in Sankara for our breakfast. It's buffet, with made-to-order eggs, plus a platter of Japanese breakfast items. Buffet has both western and Japanese items as well, and their baked goods were phenomenal.
Following the advice of our butler, Aki-San, we decided to go hiking at Yakusugi Land at the end of one of the few roads into the mountain, elevation of about 1,000m, and about an hour drive from our hotel (or 45 minutes from Anbo, where we stopped for some pictures). The road was probably used for lodging in the old days, and part of it quite narrow (and being widened). We started to see the indigenous Yaku Macaque monkeys along the roadside, and when we got up to the parking area, there was a young Yakushima Deer (Yakushika) hanging around. Not afraid of humans, we took a bunch of pictures of it (more about it later). We are now in Hayao Miyazaki's "Princess Mononoke" environ.
Yakusugi Land is a small area inside the National Park as well as the UNESCO World Heritage site, that is better maintained with well-marked trails for the casual hikers and visitors. Fee is a very modest 300¥, and bathroom at the visitor center is 100¥ donation. There are 4 marked trail-loops, for 30, 50, 80 and 150-minute hikes. The first two loops are much easier, but since we had the time, we chose the 150-minute one. Busy taking photos of the cedar forest and the streams and suspension bridge, I forgot to check our GPS for altitude, but I suspected we climbed for about 200-300m at the top. With a break for snack, it actually took us about 210 minutes to finish the 150-minute hike. Very well worth the trip.
When we got back to the parking lot, we saw that young deer again. We figured that it couldn't have been lost, but was probably orphaned and were fed by the park rangers/workers, and actually live right there and become a mascot for the park.
Tired but very happy, we drove back to Sankara for a Thai massage. They had emailed me information about their spa, but we didn't commit until arrival. They actually had very experienced Thai masseurs on premise at that time doing training. My first time having an authentic Thai massage (where I was bent into a pretzel), and it was awesome. Cost was a very reasonable 16,900¥ per person for 90 minutes, but in reality it went for almost 2 hours.
Dinner was at the main restaurant with 4-course casual French, and included in the room rate. One choose from one of 5 appetizers, soup or a pasta, about 10 entrees, and 5 desserts. Some of the items have extra - like the 880¥ soufflé I ordered. Again, drinks are fairly expensive - 2 glasses of red and a beer cost 4,400¥.
Jan 28th, 2013, 07:01 PM
#42
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Also, just posted first album of Yakushima (and 5th album overall):
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/yakushimaone1212
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/yakushimaone1212
Jan 31st, 2013, 08:25 AM
#43
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Jan 2 am.
Very sadly, we had to leave the beautiful Sankara soon after breakfast. Breakfast was similar to the previous day, but apparently the Japanese platter was only for the first morning of a stay. Some of the buffet items were also a bit different from the morning before. At check-out, we were given a gift - which was a loaf of bread. Perfect for our lunch.
We picked up the circumferential highway once again, and drove clock-wise to explore the west side of the island before returning to the airport. Along the way, we passed through a few towns and realized there are actually a lot of minshukus (民宿), the Japanese B&Bs along the way. Apparently, most of the Japanese visitors probably stay at these places rather than the few hotels on the island. If I had spent more time in doing research, I probably would be able to find a few online. In fact, some of the signs we saw were in English.
Along the way, we stopped to see the Kaichu Onsen in Harauchi (平内海中温泉), which is right next to the ocean and is only accessible during certain levels of the tide. Then the magnificent Oko-no-taki Falls (大川の滝, Big River Falls), which is the largest on the island, on the SW side. After that, the roadway narrows to single-lane, and we were again inside National Park and UNESCO World Heritage boundary. The Seibu-Rindo or Western Forest Roadway (西部林道) was the highlight of the round-island highway, as we saw numerous macaques and deers along the way. Most significantly, both species and the humans (i.e. the few cars along this little road) seem to be co-existing happily.
Soon, we were out of the woods and saw villages and towns again. We stopped briefly at the beach at Nagata (永田), where turtles eggs are hatched in the summer. Finally, we drove through Miyanoura, the largest town and port on Yakushima, and arrived soon at the airport. There was one more place I would like to visit, which is Shiratani Unsuikyo (白谷雲水峽), the ravine that inspired Hayao Mizayaki in "Princess Mononoke". But I saw that as a very good reason to come back to Yakushima in the future.
We drove for exactly 150km on the island and used exactly 10L of fuel. Gasoline is more expensive on the island, at 174¥/L. So, the cost was 1740¥, and the little Daihatsu used 6.66L/100km, or about 35.3MPG, which is not so great, since it's actually less efficient than our trip with the Toyota Vitz.
The Yakushima airport is a tiny building, with no jetway, and basically just a single waiting room. We took the once-a-day Japan Air Commuter (JAL affiliate, based in Kagoshima) Saab 340A flight back to Fukuoka. My first flight on the Saab for the 63-minute flight. Only service on this flight was a couple of Okinawa candies. No drinks no nothing. Yet, because it was during peak season, we paid full fare of 25,900¥ per person.
[Alternatives I had considered include taking the jetfoil back for 7,700¥ plus about 10,000¥ for the Shinkansen back to Fukuoka, but that wouldn't be cheap either. Or keep our first rental and drive it back to Fukuoka - while that saves the steep dropoff fees, it means gas, the high toll, extra rental cost, and the long drive back north.]
Very sadly, we had to leave the beautiful Sankara soon after breakfast. Breakfast was similar to the previous day, but apparently the Japanese platter was only for the first morning of a stay. Some of the buffet items were also a bit different from the morning before. At check-out, we were given a gift - which was a loaf of bread. Perfect for our lunch.
We picked up the circumferential highway once again, and drove clock-wise to explore the west side of the island before returning to the airport. Along the way, we passed through a few towns and realized there are actually a lot of minshukus (民宿), the Japanese B&Bs along the way. Apparently, most of the Japanese visitors probably stay at these places rather than the few hotels on the island. If I had spent more time in doing research, I probably would be able to find a few online. In fact, some of the signs we saw were in English.
Along the way, we stopped to see the Kaichu Onsen in Harauchi (平内海中温泉), which is right next to the ocean and is only accessible during certain levels of the tide. Then the magnificent Oko-no-taki Falls (大川の滝, Big River Falls), which is the largest on the island, on the SW side. After that, the roadway narrows to single-lane, and we were again inside National Park and UNESCO World Heritage boundary. The Seibu-Rindo or Western Forest Roadway (西部林道) was the highlight of the round-island highway, as we saw numerous macaques and deers along the way. Most significantly, both species and the humans (i.e. the few cars along this little road) seem to be co-existing happily.
Soon, we were out of the woods and saw villages and towns again. We stopped briefly at the beach at Nagata (永田), where turtles eggs are hatched in the summer. Finally, we drove through Miyanoura, the largest town and port on Yakushima, and arrived soon at the airport. There was one more place I would like to visit, which is Shiratani Unsuikyo (白谷雲水峽), the ravine that inspired Hayao Mizayaki in "Princess Mononoke". But I saw that as a very good reason to come back to Yakushima in the future.
We drove for exactly 150km on the island and used exactly 10L of fuel. Gasoline is more expensive on the island, at 174¥/L. So, the cost was 1740¥, and the little Daihatsu used 6.66L/100km, or about 35.3MPG, which is not so great, since it's actually less efficient than our trip with the Toyota Vitz.
The Yakushima airport is a tiny building, with no jetway, and basically just a single waiting room. We took the once-a-day Japan Air Commuter (JAL affiliate, based in Kagoshima) Saab 340A flight back to Fukuoka. My first flight on the Saab for the 63-minute flight. Only service on this flight was a couple of Okinawa candies. No drinks no nothing. Yet, because it was during peak season, we paid full fare of 25,900¥ per person.
[Alternatives I had considered include taking the jetfoil back for 7,700¥ plus about 10,000¥ for the Shinkansen back to Fukuoka, but that wouldn't be cheap either. Or keep our first rental and drive it back to Fukuoka - while that saves the steep dropoff fees, it means gas, the high toll, extra rental cost, and the long drive back north.]
Feb 1st, 2013, 02:17 AM
#44
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Posted another album. New Year's Day. Our full day on Yakushima with hiking in Yakusugi Land, Anbo, more Sankara, and our "casual" dinner there.
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/yakushimatwo0113
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/yakushimatwo0113
Feb 12th, 2013, 09:47 PM
#45
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Posted another album. Will finish off the TR and post last album shortly:
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/yakushimathree0113
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/yakushimathree0113
Feb 13th, 2013, 08:38 AM
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Jan 2 pm.
Beautiful day for flying, and we got good views from the left side of the Saab 340B for the 63 minute flight back to Fukuoka. On approach, we flew right over the Tenjin area of Fukuoka and had a good view of Hakata station as well.
Took the subway back to Hakata and checked-in once again at the Crowne Plaza ANA. Again we spent 25,000 Priority Club points, but this time they didn't offer us to upgrade and we didn't ask. The standard twin room is a bit on the small side, but still quite decent. Up to regular 4* standard in the US, I will say.
And like a week prior, we took the 100¥ bus to head to Nakasu (中洲) as we wanted to eat at a yatai once again. The bus was extremely packed on this huge shopping day in Japan. And traffic was bad as well. We should have just walked over. Anyways, the riverfront was much busier than a week ago, and most of the yatais were full. Some put out extra tables outside, even though it was a very chilly evening. We found one named Sanyu (さんゆう) that served mainly ramen with a couple of open seats inside. Besides ramen, we also had "oden" (おでん), the stew with daikon, konjac, and other stuff. Total cost: 2,400¥.
Still a bit early, we decided to walk along the main Kokutai Road towards Tenjin. Then we saw this "standing sushi bar" called Shogun, with lots of sushi starting at 75¥. We decided to try it, and ended up having a whole bunch (still only 1,150¥). Very fresh, excellent quality and decent size. So, finally, on our last night in Japan, we found that elusive "good and cheap" sushi.
We continued our walk to Tenjin, but was very disappointed to find that all the major stores, including the huge Daimaru and Seibu department stores, close at 8p, even on Jan 2, the big shopping day with the "lucky bags" being on sale. And most of the stores in the Tenjin Underground City were also closing. We still strolled along the underground and then took a 100¥ bus back to the Crowne Plaza.
Beautiful day for flying, and we got good views from the left side of the Saab 340B for the 63 minute flight back to Fukuoka. On approach, we flew right over the Tenjin area of Fukuoka and had a good view of Hakata station as well.
Took the subway back to Hakata and checked-in once again at the Crowne Plaza ANA. Again we spent 25,000 Priority Club points, but this time they didn't offer us to upgrade and we didn't ask. The standard twin room is a bit on the small side, but still quite decent. Up to regular 4* standard in the US, I will say.
And like a week prior, we took the 100¥ bus to head to Nakasu (中洲) as we wanted to eat at a yatai once again. The bus was extremely packed on this huge shopping day in Japan. And traffic was bad as well. We should have just walked over. Anyways, the riverfront was much busier than a week ago, and most of the yatais were full. Some put out extra tables outside, even though it was a very chilly evening. We found one named Sanyu (さんゆう) that served mainly ramen with a couple of open seats inside. Besides ramen, we also had "oden" (おでん), the stew with daikon, konjac, and other stuff. Total cost: 2,400¥.
Still a bit early, we decided to walk along the main Kokutai Road towards Tenjin. Then we saw this "standing sushi bar" called Shogun, with lots of sushi starting at 75¥. We decided to try it, and ended up having a whole bunch (still only 1,150¥). Very fresh, excellent quality and decent size. So, finally, on our last night in Japan, we found that elusive "good and cheap" sushi.
We continued our walk to Tenjin, but was very disappointed to find that all the major stores, including the huge Daimaru and Seibu department stores, close at 8p, even on Jan 2, the big shopping day with the "lucky bags" being on sale. And most of the stores in the Tenjin Underground City were also closing. We still strolled along the underground and then took a 100¥ bus back to the Crowne Plaza.
Feb 13th, 2013, 06:43 PM
#48
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Jan 3.
Last day of our trip, we passed on the expensive breakfast at the Crowne Plaza ANA once again, and decided to just grab whatever we passed by while walking to the Kushida Shrine (櫛田神社). On the main street leading from the Hakata Station, we saw the chain beef bowl restaurant Matsuya (松屋), which I had eaten before in Kyoto. Our breakfast set cost 390¥ and 440¥ respectively.
Continued to the Kushida Shrine, which is the home of the patron saints of Hakata. On this 3rd day of the year, there was a long but moving line to ring the bell in front of the main hall. Even though it was cold with flurries, we decided to do it as well. The wait was around 20 minutes. Lots of worshippers getting their 50¥ fortune slips as well as buying various blessing ornaments and stuff. Quite interesting. And in the back of the shrine are a bunch of food stalls. We had some yakitori BBQ.
We walked back to Hakata Station and did some shopping at the food section in the basement of the Hankyu department store. They sell really amazing stuff there. We just bought a little for some friends and my parents there, as well as a couple of lunch boxes for ourselves. After check-out, we took the subway back to FUK. Our Dragonair flight was delayed for about an hour due to late arrival caused bad weather in some parts of China - more time for us to shop at the airport. But otherwise, it was an uneventful flight back to Hong Kong.
Thanks for reading, and I will post the last album shortly.
Last day of our trip, we passed on the expensive breakfast at the Crowne Plaza ANA once again, and decided to just grab whatever we passed by while walking to the Kushida Shrine (櫛田神社). On the main street leading from the Hakata Station, we saw the chain beef bowl restaurant Matsuya (松屋), which I had eaten before in Kyoto. Our breakfast set cost 390¥ and 440¥ respectively.
Continued to the Kushida Shrine, which is the home of the patron saints of Hakata. On this 3rd day of the year, there was a long but moving line to ring the bell in front of the main hall. Even though it was cold with flurries, we decided to do it as well. The wait was around 20 minutes. Lots of worshippers getting their 50¥ fortune slips as well as buying various blessing ornaments and stuff. Quite interesting. And in the back of the shrine are a bunch of food stalls. We had some yakitori BBQ.
We walked back to Hakata Station and did some shopping at the food section in the basement of the Hankyu department store. They sell really amazing stuff there. We just bought a little for some friends and my parents there, as well as a couple of lunch boxes for ourselves. After check-out, we took the subway back to FUK. Our Dragonair flight was delayed for about an hour due to late arrival caused bad weather in some parts of China - more time for us to shop at the airport. But otherwise, it was an uneventful flight back to Hong Kong.
Thanks for reading, and I will post the last album shortly.
Feb 13th, 2013, 07:40 PM
#49
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Here's the last album. Back in Fukuoka.
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/fukuokatwo0113
And this is the link to the overall folder with all eight albums:
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/kyushu1212
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/fukuokatwo0113
And this is the link to the overall folder with all eight albums:
http://rkkwan.zenfolio.com/kyushu1212
Feb 13th, 2013, 08:57 PM
#50
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Thank you so much for taking the time to put together such a thorough trip report .
The journal and photos are a terrific resource . My wife and I will be taking two weeks in Kyushu this May and your trip report will be a big help in planning our trip
The journal and photos are a terrific resource . My wife and I will be taking two weeks in Kyushu this May and your trip report will be a big help in planning our trip
