RHK's 2010 Thailand and Vietnam trip
Nov 3rd, 2010, 06:42 AM
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Wednesday...
can't skip forward without saying how pleased we are of our fellow americans today..
a really nice day... cool, a bit of wind, but still short sleeved weather... very productive day..
breakfast was pleasant.. took a taxi to the hanoi hilton... spent perhaps an hour plus viewing this horrid old prison. While it has been cleaned up nicely, you still can feel the horror...
Following that we took another taxi to the Temple of Literature, which really is basically an open air museum. The gardens are nicely laidout but not all that well tended. A few of the buildings are quite lovely, with temples set up within.. There were lots of visitors, mostly vietamese and small children's groups..
After our walkabout there and a sit to enjoy the weather, we went around the corner to the two shops of craft link. K purchased a number of small things for gifts.. They suggested that we try the famous Koto Restaurant, just a few doors down... this too, like craft link, is a non-profit, employing and training street kids and disadvantaged kids. The food was outstanding and the staff really nice... K had a chicken noodle dish and i had a tasting plate of dumplings (like fried wontons filled with ground chicken) and fresh spring rolls... we each had a fantastic lemon tart for dessert.... ~$16. This is a must try... sit on the 2nd floor...
Both are located on Van Mieu St...
From there we took a taxi back to the long gallery on hang gai st.... We looked at a couple of pictures and bought one. It will be shipped to us in December. I tried to talk K into a mask too but she did not like them....
Oh, back to the taxi.... The meter started out ok, but soon was showing huge numbers and ended up at 389,000 dn..... I knew the short ride should be about 50,000 at most.... So I gave the driver a 50 and he said no.... then he was quiet... then i asked him how much... he pointed to the meter... i said no and got out of the taxi... I offered him the 50 again... no... I said "get the police"... I tried to give him the 50 and told him he was dishonest--of course he did not understand... now he started to raise his voice... my reply was---police again... K said just give it to him... I started walking away to cross the street with the intent to put the bill under his wiper blade, which i did... he walked after me and then yelled twice.... F U.....F U.... I walked quickly across the street and went into the gallery.
I deserved a treat so we bought the painting of the head of a tribal woman.... They will ship it to us once we return home... cost $180. for the shipping...
Another taxi back to the hotel.... can anyone tell me why the flag down fee ranges from 8.5 to 13?
We did internet and relaxed for a while and then decided about 4 to take a one hour cyclo ride.... The doorman got us two, and off we set with no destination. My driver asked me if i wanted an hour and i said yes...
We drove through some parts of the old town where we had not been before... some areas were very local... Next we passed through a main market area which was very busy and colorful... After about an hour we just kept going.... We were going around parts of the west lake, also a new area... Later we went past uncle Ho's resting place, the presidential palace, lots of embassies and lovely government buildings, and the Ho Museum. Now it was approaching 2 hours.... I thought to myself, who cares it is fun and interesting, but i feared a $$ problem....
Finally he approached the Quan An Ngon Restaurant, on phan boi chau st.... He asked if we wanted to stop there and karen was keen as she had it on her list and some OZ folks at the hotel had suggested it to us.... The driver just wanted to wait for us, but i said no.... He asked for 500,000 each for the ride... i said no and offered him 300 and the other guy who peddled K 200. He was not pleased and finally asked for 300 each. I went to get change. The manager came out and spoke with him and he left quietly with the 300 each... I figured it should have been approximately 150 each, but it was enjoyable.... and it was my fault for not negiotiating beforehand...
We loved the rest. and have tons of pictures... its a big place with different kitchens all around the exterior---sort of like hawker stalls... a waiter/waitress does all the running for you and assists you with instruction on preparing/eating and makes suggestions... We had a group captain who had an assistant... they took great care of us... 5 beers, two types of spring rolls (build it yourself), fried noodles with beef and veggies, bbq skwewers of chicken and pork seperately, fried wontons and for dessert glutunous fruit with honey and a tapiocca drink with fruit and ice--very odd. fantastic time and good food.. 516,000 dn plus a general tip and some extra for our captain, who hailed a taxi for us too. Back to the hotel for the night...
a really good day... Hanoi is a huge interesting city !!
Plans for tomorrow may involve a return to the market place...
now i am gun shy about viet drivers....
can't skip forward without saying how pleased we are of our fellow americans today..
a really nice day... cool, a bit of wind, but still short sleeved weather... very productive day..
breakfast was pleasant.. took a taxi to the hanoi hilton... spent perhaps an hour plus viewing this horrid old prison. While it has been cleaned up nicely, you still can feel the horror...
Following that we took another taxi to the Temple of Literature, which really is basically an open air museum. The gardens are nicely laidout but not all that well tended. A few of the buildings are quite lovely, with temples set up within.. There were lots of visitors, mostly vietamese and small children's groups..
After our walkabout there and a sit to enjoy the weather, we went around the corner to the two shops of craft link. K purchased a number of small things for gifts.. They suggested that we try the famous Koto Restaurant, just a few doors down... this too, like craft link, is a non-profit, employing and training street kids and disadvantaged kids. The food was outstanding and the staff really nice... K had a chicken noodle dish and i had a tasting plate of dumplings (like fried wontons filled with ground chicken) and fresh spring rolls... we each had a fantastic lemon tart for dessert.... ~$16. This is a must try... sit on the 2nd floor...
Both are located on Van Mieu St...
From there we took a taxi back to the long gallery on hang gai st.... We looked at a couple of pictures and bought one. It will be shipped to us in December. I tried to talk K into a mask too but she did not like them....
Oh, back to the taxi.... The meter started out ok, but soon was showing huge numbers and ended up at 389,000 dn..... I knew the short ride should be about 50,000 at most.... So I gave the driver a 50 and he said no.... then he was quiet... then i asked him how much... he pointed to the meter... i said no and got out of the taxi... I offered him the 50 again... no... I said "get the police"... I tried to give him the 50 and told him he was dishonest--of course he did not understand... now he started to raise his voice... my reply was---police again... K said just give it to him... I started walking away to cross the street with the intent to put the bill under his wiper blade, which i did... he walked after me and then yelled twice.... F U.....F U.... I walked quickly across the street and went into the gallery.
I deserved a treat so we bought the painting of the head of a tribal woman.... They will ship it to us once we return home... cost $180. for the shipping...
Another taxi back to the hotel.... can anyone tell me why the flag down fee ranges from 8.5 to 13?
We did internet and relaxed for a while and then decided about 4 to take a one hour cyclo ride.... The doorman got us two, and off we set with no destination. My driver asked me if i wanted an hour and i said yes...
We drove through some parts of the old town where we had not been before... some areas were very local... Next we passed through a main market area which was very busy and colorful... After about an hour we just kept going.... We were going around parts of the west lake, also a new area... Later we went past uncle Ho's resting place, the presidential palace, lots of embassies and lovely government buildings, and the Ho Museum. Now it was approaching 2 hours.... I thought to myself, who cares it is fun and interesting, but i feared a $$ problem....
Finally he approached the Quan An Ngon Restaurant, on phan boi chau st.... He asked if we wanted to stop there and karen was keen as she had it on her list and some OZ folks at the hotel had suggested it to us.... The driver just wanted to wait for us, but i said no.... He asked for 500,000 each for the ride... i said no and offered him 300 and the other guy who peddled K 200. He was not pleased and finally asked for 300 each. I went to get change. The manager came out and spoke with him and he left quietly with the 300 each... I figured it should have been approximately 150 each, but it was enjoyable.... and it was my fault for not negiotiating beforehand...
We loved the rest. and have tons of pictures... its a big place with different kitchens all around the exterior---sort of like hawker stalls... a waiter/waitress does all the running for you and assists you with instruction on preparing/eating and makes suggestions... We had a group captain who had an assistant... they took great care of us... 5 beers, two types of spring rolls (build it yourself), fried noodles with beef and veggies, bbq skwewers of chicken and pork seperately, fried wontons and for dessert glutunous fruit with honey and a tapiocca drink with fruit and ice--very odd. fantastic time and good food.. 516,000 dn plus a general tip and some extra for our captain, who hailed a taxi for us too. Back to the hotel for the night...
a really good day... Hanoi is a huge interesting city !!
Plans for tomorrow may involve a return to the market place...
now i am gun shy about viet drivers....
Nov 3rd, 2010, 03:48 PM
#108
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Bob,
I laughed when I read your taxi scam story! Yeah, it happens and at least you realized that 300,000 + dong is not correct. That fare was over $15--which would get you all the way to the airport!!! Sadly, many people will just pay it. The key is to watch the meter and if it starts rolling quickly--yell stop and get out. I HATE taxis in Hanoi because of this fact. I have migrated to using buses--which really are easy. And when I am alone, I just hop on a motorcycle taxi (Xe Om) which are very cheap. Sometimes my husband and I will each get a motorcycle because we can set the price and not have to worry about the fake taxi meters.
Also.....ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS negotiate the price beforehand. I am sure you know this and like you, sometimes I forget and then regret it. I have learned a bit of Vietnamese while living here and one short phrase I find helpful is:
bao nhiêu? This is pronounced: Bow New
It means HOW MUCH? they will come back with a price...I have learned numbers--but also carry a small calculator in my pocket to verify their price.
My response to their price is: quá đắt (too expensive) and usually end up paying about 60% of what they propose.
Also....I am not sure...but think the drop flag rates for taxis depend upon the size of the vehicle. The small car rate is about 8.5 dong. If you get a SUV or larger taxi--the drop flag rate is higher--11 dong or more.
What I typically do when taking a taxi is just to watch the meter as we travel. Most of the time the meters are ok...but several times I have seen the damn thing start to spin like a slot machine. That is when you bail out of the taxi. It happens to the locals too---so something people just need to be aware of.
I laughed when I read your taxi scam story! Yeah, it happens and at least you realized that 300,000 + dong is not correct. That fare was over $15--which would get you all the way to the airport!!! Sadly, many people will just pay it. The key is to watch the meter and if it starts rolling quickly--yell stop and get out. I HATE taxis in Hanoi because of this fact. I have migrated to using buses--which really are easy. And when I am alone, I just hop on a motorcycle taxi (Xe Om) which are very cheap. Sometimes my husband and I will each get a motorcycle because we can set the price and not have to worry about the fake taxi meters.
Also.....ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS negotiate the price beforehand. I am sure you know this and like you, sometimes I forget and then regret it. I have learned a bit of Vietnamese while living here and one short phrase I find helpful is:
bao nhiêu? This is pronounced: Bow New
It means HOW MUCH? they will come back with a price...I have learned numbers--but also carry a small calculator in my pocket to verify their price.
My response to their price is: quá đắt (too expensive) and usually end up paying about 60% of what they propose.
Also....I am not sure...but think the drop flag rates for taxis depend upon the size of the vehicle. The small car rate is about 8.5 dong. If you get a SUV or larger taxi--the drop flag rate is higher--11 dong or more.
What I typically do when taking a taxi is just to watch the meter as we travel. Most of the time the meters are ok...but several times I have seen the damn thing start to spin like a slot machine. That is when you bail out of the taxi. It happens to the locals too---so something people just need to be aware of.
Nov 3rd, 2010, 05:39 PM
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gail---thanks... ok now you have met me--which motorcycle taxi can hold me?? haha... 45 degree+ angle comes to mind..
its all still very cheap, but one never likes to be ripped off...
taking a walk this AM from national geographic guidebook...
then lunch at little hanoi and dinner at LY Club...
its all still very cheap, but one never likes to be ripped off...
taking a walk this AM from national geographic guidebook...
then lunch at little hanoi and dinner at LY Club...
Nov 3rd, 2010, 06:05 PM
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The noodle dish I had for lunch was Bum bo nam bo...outstanding. I would not call it spicey as the menu suggested, but delicious. Off on a walking tour, so hopefully we will avoid taxi issues today.
Nov 4th, 2010, 01:39 AM
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We had a fantastic walk which took all morning... going north, i think, from the lake we followed the path nat'l geo laid out.... there were about 8 main sights: a couple of temples, uncle ho's 1945 residence, the main market--dong xuan, a sweets shop, and a city gate. Along the way we stopped in a quaint local bar and had a lemon and a mango cold drink. The bar was quite lovely on the inside.
At one temple there was a ceremony going on, but strangely there were no people there participating. There was talking from two sides of the area using microphones... a small band... a monk in swirling robes, who did a whirling dervish type dance. He cut down paper decorations and lit them on fire... lit job sticks... twirled around some more, sang...
the temple had beautiful food offerings and a glut of decorations, mostly red and gold of course... All of this was being recorded. we spent quite a while there...pics to follow...
i took a million street scene pics during the morning...
Eventually, around noon, we worked our way back to hang gai street and went to Little Hanoi Restaurant for lunch... We sharred a banana flower salad which was delicious--just a tad of spice and quite sweet... we each had a tandori chicken bagette with fresh tomato slices and cucumber slices and a large piece of green lettuce... simply delicious--i want more!! the bread is unbelievable!! K had a creme caramel and i had chocolate cake... 486,000 dn...
We walked from there back to the north end of the lake where we sat in the almost perfect weather people watching and admiring the lake.
We walked a bit more around the lake, and then through many of the shoe displays and back to the hotel...
In total modesty, I must tell you that his Bobness was quite the star of the day... or should i say the entertainment or main attraction... As has been happening since our arrival in hanoi, locals have been yelling out, snickering, yelling to their friends to look at the freak, rushing over to touch my modest tummy, running beside the pedicabs, having their children's pics taken with me---having their own pic taken with me---having their girlfriends or boyfriends pic taken with me... Now i know what it must be like to be a Gpanda or even a regular panda... Contrary to what most large people might feel, I rather like the attention, and appreciate the fondness with which i am greeted.
For the rest of the afternoon, we lazed around, did some reading and internet, took a brief nap and prepared to go to LY Club for dinner. A great relaxing and fun day.
Mid-afternoon tomorrow, we fly to hue on vietnam air.
At one temple there was a ceremony going on, but strangely there were no people there participating. There was talking from two sides of the area using microphones... a small band... a monk in swirling robes, who did a whirling dervish type dance. He cut down paper decorations and lit them on fire... lit job sticks... twirled around some more, sang...
the temple had beautiful food offerings and a glut of decorations, mostly red and gold of course... All of this was being recorded. we spent quite a while there...pics to follow...
i took a million street scene pics during the morning...
Eventually, around noon, we worked our way back to hang gai street and went to Little Hanoi Restaurant for lunch... We sharred a banana flower salad which was delicious--just a tad of spice and quite sweet... we each had a tandori chicken bagette with fresh tomato slices and cucumber slices and a large piece of green lettuce... simply delicious--i want more!! the bread is unbelievable!! K had a creme caramel and i had chocolate cake... 486,000 dn...
We walked from there back to the north end of the lake where we sat in the almost perfect weather people watching and admiring the lake.
We walked a bit more around the lake, and then through many of the shoe displays and back to the hotel...
In total modesty, I must tell you that his Bobness was quite the star of the day... or should i say the entertainment or main attraction... As has been happening since our arrival in hanoi, locals have been yelling out, snickering, yelling to their friends to look at the freak, rushing over to touch my modest tummy, running beside the pedicabs, having their children's pics taken with me---having their own pic taken with me---having their girlfriends or boyfriends pic taken with me... Now i know what it must be like to be a Gpanda or even a regular panda... Contrary to what most large people might feel, I rather like the attention, and appreciate the fondness with which i am greeted.
For the rest of the afternoon, we lazed around, did some reading and internet, took a brief nap and prepared to go to LY Club for dinner. A great relaxing and fun day.
Mid-afternoon tomorrow, we fly to hue on vietnam air.
Nov 4th, 2010, 05:38 AM
#114
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Oh i had Bun bo nam bo at Koto too!!! and we LOVED craft link bought some really cute laquer pictures from there. Sounds like you are enjoying Hanoi. Try Quan An Ngon in Saigon it's really good.
We walked to La Badiane from the sofitel in Hanoi (which is right by QAN) i told M it was only round the corner. Because of all the issues i read about we walked pretty much everywhere except when we were with hanoi kids and they sorted out the taxis.
Loving the updates.
We walked to La Badiane from the sofitel in Hanoi (which is right by QAN) i told M it was only round the corner. Because of all the issues i read about we walked pretty much everywhere except when we were with hanoi kids and they sorted out the taxis.
Loving the updates.
Nov 4th, 2010, 06:04 AM
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we had the most fabulous meal at the LY Club---just across from the American ambassador's residence....
we chose a tasting menu and K had sav blanc and i had tiger beers with it...
1. young coconut with seafood and vegetables soup
2. pomelo salad with prawns, chicken flavored with vietnamese herbs
3. browned, vermicelli-wrapped minced scallops with apple and pear sauce
4. crispy fried beef tenderloin with sweet and sour sauce
5. steamed snow fish with ginger and spring onion in superiors soya sauce
6. grilled duck in orange sauce
7. stir-fried mixed garden vegetables with olive oil
8. steamed hai hau fragrant rice
9. trio of creme brulees: green tea, passion fruit and ginger
reasonable at $30, but bill was $98 because of drinks...
the restaurant is in a former mansion and is well preserved. I would rate this a top class place at a moderate price. Our dining room was comfortable with brown, cream and mocha coloring.... a musician played a 20 string harp/guitar instrument... the music was lovely... we did not have a res, but i think it advisable... Tel: 844-3936
4 le phung heiu st.
This is our best meal thus far, albeit expensive..
we chose a tasting menu and K had sav blanc and i had tiger beers with it...
1. young coconut with seafood and vegetables soup
2. pomelo salad with prawns, chicken flavored with vietnamese herbs
3. browned, vermicelli-wrapped minced scallops with apple and pear sauce
4. crispy fried beef tenderloin with sweet and sour sauce
5. steamed snow fish with ginger and spring onion in superiors soya sauce
6. grilled duck in orange sauce
7. stir-fried mixed garden vegetables with olive oil
8. steamed hai hau fragrant rice
9. trio of creme brulees: green tea, passion fruit and ginger
reasonable at $30, but bill was $98 because of drinks...
the restaurant is in a former mansion and is well preserved. I would rate this a top class place at a moderate price. Our dining room was comfortable with brown, cream and mocha coloring.... a musician played a 20 string harp/guitar instrument... the music was lovely... we did not have a res, but i think it advisable... Tel: 844-3936
4 le phung heiu st.
This is our best meal thus far, albeit expensive..
Nov 4th, 2010, 07:57 AM
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We also bought some art from the gift shop in the Fine Arts Museum (close to the Temple of Literature). Lovely and very inexpensive. We also purchased from a gallery in old town, can't remember the name, only that the very old man tending the gallery only spoke Vitenamese and French. We negotiated in French.
Nov 4th, 2010, 09:06 AM
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Still having a great time reading this. (Ahem..Bob, it wasn't REALLY expensive, especially considering you're from Boston where that kind of meal isn't expensive AT ALL!) I liked reading about the walk and the galleries, too.
As for that monk, all I can say is grrr...and it takes a lot to get me to say that!
Please, keep it coming. I'm traveling vicariously through you guys!
BC
As for that monk, all I can say is grrr...and it takes a lot to get me to say that!
Please, keep it coming. I'm traveling vicariously through you guys!
BC
