Pho, It's Not Just For Breakfast Anymore; Kristina & David in Vietnam 2009
Jul 26th, 2009, 01:54 PM
#42
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Lcuy-Good to know about the rate. Makes sense since the euro/dollar change is about the same from last year too.
Dogster-I'm honored you are reading too. Especially because if I remember correctly, Vietnam was not your favorite destination.
Thanks everyone else for the nice comments. That's what keeps me going. It sure isn't money or fame, LOL.
<b>Day 1, continued...</b>
The Mausoleum is a very odd experience, starting with our arrival. Everyone must check in any large bags and any food or beverage.
While waiting in line to see if my bag is small enough to keep (it is) I am hip-checked by local woman who barges up and cuts in front of me. She is then roundly chastised by the counter woman who tells her to go to the line for Vietnamese, not tourists, which is clearly marked.
From there, we must walk under a long wood pavilion-covered pathway. It's the equivalent of a couple of blocks, and there are hundreds of people, but it's moving at a walking pace. Along the way, we have to stop and go through airport-style security. They give anyone with a camera a red bag and all cameras must be turned in at a kiosk. They put our two cameras in one bag and give me a tag with a number. The girls tell me I have to pick up my camera at a kiosk on the other end after we exit the Mausoleum.
During the entire walk to the entrance of the Mausoleum (a couple more blocks, this place is huge!) I am nervous, thinking my camera is just going to disappear. I know this is ridiculous and they probably deal with thousands of cameras a day, many nicer and more expensive than mine, but I am irrationally attached to my camera and would be devastated if anything were to happen to it (cue long range foreshadowing).
Finally, we get to the entrance and are allowed into the mausoleum. It's dim and cool inside and we are almost shoved though the 3 sided viewing room. Ho Chi Minh is at the center, laying in his glass box, looking for all intents and purposes like he belongs in a wax museum. There are four solders at standing in dress uniforms at rigorous attention at every corner of his platform. There are other soldiers on the walkway moving people along. <i>NO stopping! NO talking! Keep MOVING!</i> We are in and out of the building is less time than it takes to read this paragraph. Outside, as promised, our cameras are waiting. I am relieved.
Afterward, we walk over to see the presidential palace (from outside only) and then HCM's stilt house built for him because he did not want to live in the palace. There is an entrance fee here for us (15,000 VND each), nothing for Vietnamese. The Palace is typical in its yellow/orange French Colonial splendor.
The teak stilt house which HCM lived in until he died while plain, is actually quite lovely in its simplicity, craftsmanship and setting next to a small lake filled with carp. It's worth a look and everything is still as it was (furnishings, telephone, books, etc) when he died.
Dogster-I'm honored you are reading too. Especially because if I remember correctly, Vietnam was not your favorite destination.
Thanks everyone else for the nice comments. That's what keeps me going. It sure isn't money or fame, LOL.
<b>Day 1, continued...</b>
The Mausoleum is a very odd experience, starting with our arrival. Everyone must check in any large bags and any food or beverage.
While waiting in line to see if my bag is small enough to keep (it is) I am hip-checked by local woman who barges up and cuts in front of me. She is then roundly chastised by the counter woman who tells her to go to the line for Vietnamese, not tourists, which is clearly marked.
From there, we must walk under a long wood pavilion-covered pathway. It's the equivalent of a couple of blocks, and there are hundreds of people, but it's moving at a walking pace. Along the way, we have to stop and go through airport-style security. They give anyone with a camera a red bag and all cameras must be turned in at a kiosk. They put our two cameras in one bag and give me a tag with a number. The girls tell me I have to pick up my camera at a kiosk on the other end after we exit the Mausoleum.
During the entire walk to the entrance of the Mausoleum (a couple more blocks, this place is huge!) I am nervous, thinking my camera is just going to disappear. I know this is ridiculous and they probably deal with thousands of cameras a day, many nicer and more expensive than mine, but I am irrationally attached to my camera and would be devastated if anything were to happen to it (cue long range foreshadowing).
Finally, we get to the entrance and are allowed into the mausoleum. It's dim and cool inside and we are almost shoved though the 3 sided viewing room. Ho Chi Minh is at the center, laying in his glass box, looking for all intents and purposes like he belongs in a wax museum. There are four solders at standing in dress uniforms at rigorous attention at every corner of his platform. There are other soldiers on the walkway moving people along. <i>NO stopping! NO talking! Keep MOVING!</i> We are in and out of the building is less time than it takes to read this paragraph. Outside, as promised, our cameras are waiting. I am relieved.
Afterward, we walk over to see the presidential palace (from outside only) and then HCM's stilt house built for him because he did not want to live in the palace. There is an entrance fee here for us (15,000 VND each), nothing for Vietnamese. The Palace is typical in its yellow/orange French Colonial splendor.
The teak stilt house which HCM lived in until he died while plain, is actually quite lovely in its simplicity, craftsmanship and setting next to a small lake filled with carp. It's worth a look and everything is still as it was (furnishings, telephone, books, etc) when he died.
Jul 26th, 2009, 09:27 PM
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Still working on Day 1 for the website. It's not the writing, it's the photos which suck up my time. I took 236 photos on the first day. How to cull through all of them and pick the best for the site?
Hope you stay with me. Y'all here at Fodor's get the "sneak preview" of the text before I even put it up on my own site. ;-)
<i>Here's a little more to keep you interested...</i>
Our next stop, nearby, is the One Pillar Pagoda. First built in 1049, it had to be rebuilt after the French blew it up in 1954. It's a small pagoda balanced on a single pillar sitting in the center of a square pond with a connection to fertility based on the legend of the King who first built the pagoda.
Next door is the Ho Chi Minh Museum. We decide not to go in because it's closing soon and we're ready to move on. From here, we take another taxi (25,000 VND) to the Temple of Literature. The entrance fee is 10,000 VND for us and 5000 VND for them. I also purchase a brochure in English for 3000 VND.
<b>Temple of Literature </b>
Much has been written about the Temple of Literature. Any good guidebook will tell you what you want to know better than I can. Basically it was built as a temple to Confucius in 1070 and then later the site of Vietnam's first university. There are stone tablets set atop large stone turtles which contain all the names of 1304 doctor laureates between 1442 and 1779. Many students come here and touch the turtle's heads or the tablets for luck before their exams.
<b>Quon An Ngon Restaurant </b>
Finally, it's time for lunch! They suggest a place, but I can't understand the name. From the description though, it sounds like a restaurant I'd really wanted to try and it turns out that it is! We take another taxi (20,000 VND) to Quon An Ngon (18 Phan Boi Chau St.) for lunch. It's very crowded when we arrive and we are seated inside and upstairs. Quan An Ngon is in a large, villa style house, and has numerous food stations which mimic street stalls. You can order from the stalls or do as we did, order from a large menu.
As we were still pretty jet lagged, we let the girls order for us; Pho ga (Noodle soup with chicken), Pho xao gion (Beef with greens and soft noodles -what they called “dry pho”), Mi xao hai san (seafood noodles) and Nem cua be ( fried spring rolls). All that with 1 beer, 2 sodas and 2 cha drinks was 250,000 VND (about $14.20).
The meal was good, but as it turns out, nowhere near the best one we’d have. Still, it’s a good, “safe” introduction to Hanoi. In addition, our time with the Hanoi Kids on the first day was a great idea and really helped ease us into the city. After lunch, we took a taxi back to the hotel and said goodbye.
Hope you stay with me. Y'all here at Fodor's get the "sneak preview" of the text before I even put it up on my own site. ;-)
<i>Here's a little more to keep you interested...</i>
Our next stop, nearby, is the One Pillar Pagoda. First built in 1049, it had to be rebuilt after the French blew it up in 1954. It's a small pagoda balanced on a single pillar sitting in the center of a square pond with a connection to fertility based on the legend of the King who first built the pagoda.
Next door is the Ho Chi Minh Museum. We decide not to go in because it's closing soon and we're ready to move on. From here, we take another taxi (25,000 VND) to the Temple of Literature. The entrance fee is 10,000 VND for us and 5000 VND for them. I also purchase a brochure in English for 3000 VND.
<b>Temple of Literature </b>
Much has been written about the Temple of Literature. Any good guidebook will tell you what you want to know better than I can. Basically it was built as a temple to Confucius in 1070 and then later the site of Vietnam's first university. There are stone tablets set atop large stone turtles which contain all the names of 1304 doctor laureates between 1442 and 1779. Many students come here and touch the turtle's heads or the tablets for luck before their exams.
<b>Quon An Ngon Restaurant </b>
Finally, it's time for lunch! They suggest a place, but I can't understand the name. From the description though, it sounds like a restaurant I'd really wanted to try and it turns out that it is! We take another taxi (20,000 VND) to Quon An Ngon (18 Phan Boi Chau St.) for lunch. It's very crowded when we arrive and we are seated inside and upstairs. Quan An Ngon is in a large, villa style house, and has numerous food stations which mimic street stalls. You can order from the stalls or do as we did, order from a large menu.
As we were still pretty jet lagged, we let the girls order for us; Pho ga (Noodle soup with chicken), Pho xao gion (Beef with greens and soft noodles -what they called “dry pho”), Mi xao hai san (seafood noodles) and Nem cua be ( fried spring rolls). All that with 1 beer, 2 sodas and 2 cha drinks was 250,000 VND (about $14.20).
The meal was good, but as it turns out, nowhere near the best one we’d have. Still, it’s a good, “safe” introduction to Hanoi. In addition, our time with the Hanoi Kids on the first day was a great idea and really helped ease us into the city. After lunch, we took a taxi back to the hotel and said goodbye.
Jul 26th, 2009, 10:36 PM
#48
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susncrg- Alas, only in Thailand! I've looked online and it can be found in England I think, but it's twice the price, plus shipping. I haven't been able to find it in the US.
We were using the last of what we had on this trip. When we got to Bangkok, we bought 4 more bottles; 3 for us and 1 for a friend.
A side note; David wore mosquito repellent every day (some might say obsessively) and got a few bites. I wore it only once or twice and got no bites at all. Not that I don't usually get bit-I think I was just lucky this time.
We were using the last of what we had on this trip. When we got to Bangkok, we bought 4 more bottles; 3 for us and 1 for a friend.
A side note; David wore mosquito repellent every day (some might say obsessively) and got a few bites. I wore it only once or twice and got no bites at all. Not that I don't usually get bit-I think I was just lucky this time.
Jul 27th, 2009, 01:09 AM
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Kristina - I'm enjoying your report very much and looking forward to your website too. Your (and Kathie's) information and website were a major resource for me when I first went to Cambodia back awhile - including the intro to Ponheary. I keep looking at Vietnam so hope to get there soon and I know I'll be able to use your help again. So thanks.
Jul 27th, 2009, 05:04 AM
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The Hanoi Kids are required to write about their experiences. It took me a while to find it, but here's what they had to say about us:
http://hanoikidsclub.org/component/o...997/catid,128/
Answer: Once we got home and confirmed the numbers, the current official count is Kristina, 33, David 42 (you'll have to read the review to know the question).
http://hanoikidsclub.org/component/o...997/catid,128/
Answer: Once we got home and confirmed the numbers, the current official count is Kristina, 33, David 42 (you'll have to read the review to know the question).
Jul 27th, 2009, 06:46 AM
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MaryW- Thanks, it's always good to know the information is helpful to someone. I get so much great info here too I can't help but want to share as well.
Mebe-I don't get all the monkeys, but they sure like them, don't they?
<b>Afternoon</b>
David decides to take a rest, so I get online then go out for a walk alone because I don't feel like just sitting in the room and I can't sleep. I'm always nervous out by myself in a new place, so I stick to streets close by the hotel, afraid of getting lost. I check out the Cathedral and scope out the various food places in the area. I even find a kitty in the doorway of a laundry place to talk to. I was looking for a snack, but not really feeling confident enough yet to just sit down by myself and order. Times like these make me so thankful I am blessed with good travel companions because I don't think I'd like to travel for long by myself.
After David gets up, we walk to the lake and down around the east side in search of Fanny’s Ice cream. It's not that hard to find considering it's right across the street from Hoan Kiem Lake. We go in and take a seat. I have a scoop of salted caramel and dark chocolate. David has a crepe with chocolate ice cream. The place is filled with local families and tourists. 81,000 VND ($4.60) and a nice cool break from walking in the heat and humidity.
Pho, it's not just for breakfast any more
For dinner, we walk down the street from our hotel and found “Pho 10″ (10 Ly Quoc Su, at corner of Chan Cam St), a simple street front place. I always thought pho was just for breakfast in Vietnam, but I guess I was wrong. This place, which does about 10 versions of beef pho only, was packed with locals slurping down their dinner.
The kitchen is a glassed in cube staffed by very young men serving up soup and a couple of fried noodle dishes. The servers are all young women in matching t-shirts with the restaurant’s name on them. As typical in most storefront restaurants in South East Asia, the owner, a woman of a certain age, sits at a desk near the front door, watching over all.
We both ordered “Pho Tai Bap” (Beef Filet Noodle) and a Bia Hanoi. All excellent. Unlike in the US, this pho was not served with a plate of herbs and vegetable garnish. Instead, it was simply garnished with fresh mint and there were crocks of chili sauce and pickled garlic slices on the table. A perfect, easy first dinner at 80,000 VND total. Highly recommended.
While I won't total our expenses every day, I think it's worth it to note here that even with such a busy day sightseeing, taking 4 taxi rides, lunch for four people, ice cream and dinner for two we spent a grand total of 569,000 VND for the day (not including hotel). That's $32.30!
Mebe-I don't get all the monkeys, but they sure like them, don't they?
<b>Afternoon</b>
David decides to take a rest, so I get online then go out for a walk alone because I don't feel like just sitting in the room and I can't sleep. I'm always nervous out by myself in a new place, so I stick to streets close by the hotel, afraid of getting lost. I check out the Cathedral and scope out the various food places in the area. I even find a kitty in the doorway of a laundry place to talk to. I was looking for a snack, but not really feeling confident enough yet to just sit down by myself and order. Times like these make me so thankful I am blessed with good travel companions because I don't think I'd like to travel for long by myself.
After David gets up, we walk to the lake and down around the east side in search of Fanny’s Ice cream. It's not that hard to find considering it's right across the street from Hoan Kiem Lake. We go in and take a seat. I have a scoop of salted caramel and dark chocolate. David has a crepe with chocolate ice cream. The place is filled with local families and tourists. 81,000 VND ($4.60) and a nice cool break from walking in the heat and humidity.
Pho, it's not just for breakfast any more
For dinner, we walk down the street from our hotel and found “Pho 10″ (10 Ly Quoc Su, at corner of Chan Cam St), a simple street front place. I always thought pho was just for breakfast in Vietnam, but I guess I was wrong. This place, which does about 10 versions of beef pho only, was packed with locals slurping down their dinner.
The kitchen is a glassed in cube staffed by very young men serving up soup and a couple of fried noodle dishes. The servers are all young women in matching t-shirts with the restaurant’s name on them. As typical in most storefront restaurants in South East Asia, the owner, a woman of a certain age, sits at a desk near the front door, watching over all.
We both ordered “Pho Tai Bap” (Beef Filet Noodle) and a Bia Hanoi. All excellent. Unlike in the US, this pho was not served with a plate of herbs and vegetable garnish. Instead, it was simply garnished with fresh mint and there were crocks of chili sauce and pickled garlic slices on the table. A perfect, easy first dinner at 80,000 VND total. Highly recommended.
While I won't total our expenses every day, I think it's worth it to note here that even with such a busy day sightseeing, taking 4 taxi rides, lunch for four people, ice cream and dinner for two we spent a grand total of 569,000 VND for the day (not including hotel). That's $32.30!
Jul 27th, 2009, 08:35 AM
#54
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Ok, finally, here we go!
Lots of photos, so be patient while it downloads...
http://www.wired2theworld.com/vietnam2009Day1.html
Lots of photos, so be patient while it downloads...
http://www.wired2theworld.com/vietnam2009Day1.html
Jul 27th, 2009, 11:49 AM
#57
Your Hanoikid writer is so cute; "(I felt David was) <i> a true man at first sight, and step by step I knew that my feeling was not wrong</i>"
Wasn't Craig's review also something about him being a "real" man? Kids are so refreshing in their comments.
Loving the details, Kristina!
Wasn't Craig's review also something about him being a "real" man? Kids are so refreshing in their comments.
Loving the details, Kristina!
Jul 27th, 2009, 03:29 PM
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lcuy-yes, I really wondered what the "real man" comment meant. Could it be a direct translation from Vietnamese and/or is there another meaning?
I like the idea that I'm "multi-talented" too.
I like the idea that I'm "multi-talented" too.
Jul 28th, 2009, 05:16 AM
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<b>Day 2
Hanoi, Vietnam
July 5, 2009 </b>
We are on our own today and of course, we wake to dumping rain and 90 degree weather. After breakfast, we try and wait it out for a while, but the rain does not stop. Finally, we give in and set out with umbrellas, locals looking at us as if we are insane because almost everyone here wears those big plastic rain ponchos. But with the heat the plastic becomes a sauna so we prefer the umbrellas.
We are in search of the large old market building built by the French called Dong Xuan. To get there, we have to walk though some of what are called the "36 streets" of the old quarter. Each street is named after what it sells, or used to sell; i.e, "silk street", "tin street" etc. Most shops on that street sell exactly the same thing. It's a business model I don't completely understand.
The market is a massive disappointment from a food perspective. If you’re looking for fabric, a cheap watch, or anything plastic and imported from China, this is your place. A foodie destination it is not. In fact, the only “food” I can find are stalls selling dried shrimp and dried mushrooms. At least there was none we could find, though my guide book (DK Eyewitness) said there was fresh food here.
The facade is from 1889, but the rest of the building was rebuilt after a large fire in 1996. I find it depressing and a little uncomfortable. There are too many people sitting around doing nothing. Everyone is watching you, watching them.
Dejected, we leave and decide on an early lunch of Bun Cha. Last night I had asked the guy at the front desk for restaurant recommendations.
First he suggested the usual “safe” choices; Quon an Ngon (where we’d had lunch already) and Green Tangerine.
I said, “What about something less touristy, more local?”
He said, “You like Bun Cha? Go to this place, it’s famous for Bun Cha, right at the end of the street…”
We had looked last night, and at first could not find it. Then we figured out it was closed. Later in the night I'd heard from a friend who said "go to this place for Bun Cha" and it turned out to be the same place the hotel recommended. It must be fate. And fortunately for us, today it is open.
We go in and are ushered to a small room up a very narrow set of stairs. There’s no menu; we’re asked what we want to drink and then the food is brought to us. On the table already is a massive plate of greens and herbs, a plate heaped high with cooked rice noodles, and a bowl of sliced chilies and chopped garlic.
They bring us each a bowl filled with grilled pork patties wrapped in herbs and sliced grilled pork, swimming in a sweet/sour vinegar sauce. There’s also a huge plate of Nem Cua Da (fried pork filled spring rolls).
One of the women working there senses just the barest hesitation on our part and jumps in to show us how to eat everything. Some noodles in the empty bowl, top with a couple of spoon-fulls of pork and sauce from the other bowl. Add some garlic and chilies and a bit of greens. Mix it all up with chopsticks and enjoy! Later, we are relieved to know we’re not the only ones to receive such instruction; the Japanese couple who sits down next to us get the same. Lunch for two (with a massive amount of food, too much to finish), 2 sodas, 130,000 VND.
Hanoi, Vietnam
July 5, 2009 </b>
We are on our own today and of course, we wake to dumping rain and 90 degree weather. After breakfast, we try and wait it out for a while, but the rain does not stop. Finally, we give in and set out with umbrellas, locals looking at us as if we are insane because almost everyone here wears those big plastic rain ponchos. But with the heat the plastic becomes a sauna so we prefer the umbrellas.
We are in search of the large old market building built by the French called Dong Xuan. To get there, we have to walk though some of what are called the "36 streets" of the old quarter. Each street is named after what it sells, or used to sell; i.e, "silk street", "tin street" etc. Most shops on that street sell exactly the same thing. It's a business model I don't completely understand.
The market is a massive disappointment from a food perspective. If you’re looking for fabric, a cheap watch, or anything plastic and imported from China, this is your place. A foodie destination it is not. In fact, the only “food” I can find are stalls selling dried shrimp and dried mushrooms. At least there was none we could find, though my guide book (DK Eyewitness) said there was fresh food here.
The facade is from 1889, but the rest of the building was rebuilt after a large fire in 1996. I find it depressing and a little uncomfortable. There are too many people sitting around doing nothing. Everyone is watching you, watching them.
Dejected, we leave and decide on an early lunch of Bun Cha. Last night I had asked the guy at the front desk for restaurant recommendations.
First he suggested the usual “safe” choices; Quon an Ngon (where we’d had lunch already) and Green Tangerine.
I said, “What about something less touristy, more local?”
He said, “You like Bun Cha? Go to this place, it’s famous for Bun Cha, right at the end of the street…”
We had looked last night, and at first could not find it. Then we figured out it was closed. Later in the night I'd heard from a friend who said "go to this place for Bun Cha" and it turned out to be the same place the hotel recommended. It must be fate. And fortunately for us, today it is open.
We go in and are ushered to a small room up a very narrow set of stairs. There’s no menu; we’re asked what we want to drink and then the food is brought to us. On the table already is a massive plate of greens and herbs, a plate heaped high with cooked rice noodles, and a bowl of sliced chilies and chopped garlic.
They bring us each a bowl filled with grilled pork patties wrapped in herbs and sliced grilled pork, swimming in a sweet/sour vinegar sauce. There’s also a huge plate of Nem Cua Da (fried pork filled spring rolls).
One of the women working there senses just the barest hesitation on our part and jumps in to show us how to eat everything. Some noodles in the empty bowl, top with a couple of spoon-fulls of pork and sauce from the other bowl. Add some garlic and chilies and a bit of greens. Mix it all up with chopsticks and enjoy! Later, we are relieved to know we’re not the only ones to receive such instruction; the Japanese couple who sits down next to us get the same. Lunch for two (with a massive amount of food, too much to finish), 2 sodas, 130,000 VND.
