Pho, It's Not Just For Breakfast Anymore; Kristina & David in Vietnam 2009
Jul 31st, 2009, 11:11 AM
#82
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Probably no photos up until tomorrow.
We've been busy with visitors. First Lori, and now David's Grandmother. Those of you at the LA GTG may remember her from the Dim Sum morning. She is now really moving to Taiwan (to be with D'd dad and help take care of his 13 yo son) and on her way from here next week! How someone at age 85 can choose to do that is amazing to me.
Will try and get more writing done later.
We've been busy with visitors. First Lori, and now David's Grandmother. Those of you at the LA GTG may remember her from the Dim Sum morning. She is now really moving to Taiwan (to be with D'd dad and help take care of his 13 yo son) and on her way from here next week! How someone at age 85 can choose to do that is amazing to me.
Will try and get more writing done later.
Jul 31st, 2009, 04:47 PM
#84
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Not MIL, husband's Grandmother. And yes, she's plucky. Moving to Taiwan to take care of her 13 yo grandson. Husband's father, an expat, has lived in Asia almost 30 yrs (he's 65). His Taiwanese wife died in December, leaving him there with their son. So, Mary to the rescue!
Jul 31st, 2009, 08:11 PM
#85
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 2,138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Love your pictures, you've done a wonderful job editing them.
I recognise Dong Xuan market from your pictures. The description must have been enticing during the planning stages of my trip, but by the time we got there I had no idea why we were visiting the market as there was nothing of interest. You've helped me piece the puzzle together; I now realize the guide was just honoring my request!
I recognise Dong Xuan market from your pictures. The description must have been enticing during the planning stages of my trip, but by the time we got there I had no idea why we were visiting the market as there was nothing of interest. You've helped me piece the puzzle together; I now realize the guide was just honoring my request!
Aug 1st, 2009, 09:12 AM
#87
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes Femi, the Dong Xuan market was a disappointment. But wait until you see the photos of the Hang Be Market. I'm sure it's what you had in mind too.
<b>More on Day 3...</b>
Very close by the market is the Memorial House Museum (87 Pho Ma May St, admission 5000 VND). This is an old shop house, also called a "tube house". These homes usually had a shop in the front facing the street and the family's living quarters upstairs and in the back. This one, now a museum, has been owned by the same family for 6 generations.
There are interior courtyards which let in light and air. The interior is surprisingly cool due to the way air flows through the building and the detail in the woodwork is lovely. Ignore the crafts/souvenirs being sold in every room, while there is no pressure to buy, they are very overpriced. We very much enjoyed our short visit here.
Our next destination is Hoan Kiem Lake, to see the famous red bridge which seems to be in all photos of Hanoi. The bridge connects the shore to an island on the lake on which sites the Jade Hill Temple. Walking across the bridge is free, but entrance to the temple is 10000 VND, purchased on the shore side (I know, because I had to walk back over the bridge to get the tickets so we could walk onto the island). The lake is known for the legend of the giant turtle who rose from the lake to present a sword to General Le Loi in the 15th century. Today there are rumors the lake is still filled with such creatures and indeed, a 550 lb one was found (captured or already dead, I'm not certain) in 1968 and now sits preserved in a glass case in the temple.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop by a woman we nicknamed the “fry lady” on Ly Quoc Su St . We’ve been seeing her every day and finally we decide to stop. We should have sat down to eat, but I think because we were too tentative she gives us our stuff to go. We get 4 assorted savory fried things for 16,000 VND (less than $1). A tasty snack!
In the afternoon we do a bit more shopping. All around the area near the cathedral are "boutique" type shops, some with absolutely adorable, unique clothes. I don't buy any unfortunately. However, in a shop (not a boutique, more of a souvenir shop) on Hang Trong St. we find a few things we like (2 ties, 2 scarves, 2 purses, all silk) and possibly, the only sales girl in Hanoi unwilling to bargain. She's firm on her price, and only willing to come down a dollar or two. We get everything for $21. I wish I'd bought more of the scarves because I never see any exactly like them or their quality the rest of the trip.
For a mid-afternoon snack, we go to one of the places for which I have a recommendation for Bun Bo. This place is right around the corner from the hotel, and even at 3PM has a fair amount of people in it, slurping down noodles. These were really tasty; dry rice noodles with beef, lettuce, green onions, and topped with fried shallots and peanuts. There’s a bit of sauce in the bottom of the bowl too, so it’s not completely dry. Bun Bo Nam Bo, 67 Hang Dieu, Hanoi
For a late dinner, we end up at the same Pho place we’d gone to for our first dinner, “Pho 10″ at 10 Ly Quoc Su. It is just as good this time around. I have the pho tai bap again and David has”beef with instan noodle”. Yes, no “t” on “instant” and yes, the noodle looks surprisingly like instant ramen, but stir-fried instead of soupy. Both were good, but the pho here is the clear winner. I also had a “Bia Saigon” and while I am certainly no beer connoisseur, this was absolutely one of the worst beers I’ve ever had. My first thought was, “beer soda!” It seemed sweet to me and really, that’s not a good thing for beer, is it?
<b>More on Day 3...</b>
Very close by the market is the Memorial House Museum (87 Pho Ma May St, admission 5000 VND). This is an old shop house, also called a "tube house". These homes usually had a shop in the front facing the street and the family's living quarters upstairs and in the back. This one, now a museum, has been owned by the same family for 6 generations.
There are interior courtyards which let in light and air. The interior is surprisingly cool due to the way air flows through the building and the detail in the woodwork is lovely. Ignore the crafts/souvenirs being sold in every room, while there is no pressure to buy, they are very overpriced. We very much enjoyed our short visit here.
Our next destination is Hoan Kiem Lake, to see the famous red bridge which seems to be in all photos of Hanoi. The bridge connects the shore to an island on the lake on which sites the Jade Hill Temple. Walking across the bridge is free, but entrance to the temple is 10000 VND, purchased on the shore side (I know, because I had to walk back over the bridge to get the tickets so we could walk onto the island). The lake is known for the legend of the giant turtle who rose from the lake to present a sword to General Le Loi in the 15th century. Today there are rumors the lake is still filled with such creatures and indeed, a 550 lb one was found (captured or already dead, I'm not certain) in 1968 and now sits preserved in a glass case in the temple.
On the way back to the hotel, we stop by a woman we nicknamed the “fry lady” on Ly Quoc Su St . We’ve been seeing her every day and finally we decide to stop. We should have sat down to eat, but I think because we were too tentative she gives us our stuff to go. We get 4 assorted savory fried things for 16,000 VND (less than $1). A tasty snack!
In the afternoon we do a bit more shopping. All around the area near the cathedral are "boutique" type shops, some with absolutely adorable, unique clothes. I don't buy any unfortunately. However, in a shop (not a boutique, more of a souvenir shop) on Hang Trong St. we find a few things we like (2 ties, 2 scarves, 2 purses, all silk) and possibly, the only sales girl in Hanoi unwilling to bargain. She's firm on her price, and only willing to come down a dollar or two. We get everything for $21. I wish I'd bought more of the scarves because I never see any exactly like them or their quality the rest of the trip.
For a mid-afternoon snack, we go to one of the places for which I have a recommendation for Bun Bo. This place is right around the corner from the hotel, and even at 3PM has a fair amount of people in it, slurping down noodles. These were really tasty; dry rice noodles with beef, lettuce, green onions, and topped with fried shallots and peanuts. There’s a bit of sauce in the bottom of the bowl too, so it’s not completely dry. Bun Bo Nam Bo, 67 Hang Dieu, Hanoi
For a late dinner, we end up at the same Pho place we’d gone to for our first dinner, “Pho 10″ at 10 Ly Quoc Su. It is just as good this time around. I have the pho tai bap again and David has”beef with instan noodle”. Yes, no “t” on “instant” and yes, the noodle looks surprisingly like instant ramen, but stir-fried instead of soupy. Both were good, but the pho here is the clear winner. I also had a “Bia Saigon” and while I am certainly no beer connoisseur, this was absolutely one of the worst beers I’ve ever had. My first thought was, “beer soda!” It seemed sweet to me and really, that’s not a good thing for beer, is it?
Aug 2nd, 2009, 10:09 AM
#89
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's funny Kathie! I hoped you stopped and had a bowl!
For your Sunday reading pleasure...
Pictures and a little extra added text are now up on my website for Hanoi Day 3:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/vietnam2009Day3.html
For your Sunday reading pleasure...
Pictures and a little extra added text are now up on my website for Hanoi Day 3:
http://www.wired2theworld.com/vietnam2009Day3.html
Aug 2nd, 2009, 08:09 PM
#90
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Day 4
Hue, Vietnam
July 7, 2009</b>
Today we have an 11 am flight to Hue. Instead of going by taxi to the airport, we decide to just book it through the hotel where an airport transfer is $16. I think I read it's somewhere around $10 by cab . If this were the Peninsula in Bangkok, where the hotel car is $85 to the airport (and a cab is still around $10), there would be no way, but for $6 more it's just easier to take the hotel's car and not worry about it.
The domestic terminal at the Hanoi airport doesn't have much going on. Very little food for sale, a couple of drink stands, and some overpriced souvenirs. Our flight on Vietnam Airlines is uneventful and takes about an hour to get to Hue. At the airport, there is another driver waiting for us, this one booked through Tonkin ($17). As it turns out, he tells us he will be the same driver taking us to Hoi An in two days time.
The ride in from the airport takes about 40 minutes. It's now after lunch time and we're both hungry and impatient by the time we arrive at the Villa Hue Hotel. The Villa Hue is attached to the Hue Hospitality school and is staffed by young and eager interns. The hotel itself is quite lovely, and the rooms are an excellent value. Our Superior room is huge and costs us around $65 a night including breakfast (best rate was booked through Tonkin). The public areas are not air-conditioned and are very hot, but the rooms have A/C.
Our room opens on to a foyer with a closet in it, a luggage stand and two doors; one to the bedroom and one to the bathroom. The bathroom also has a door into the bedroom. The room itself is huge and has a french door leading out onto a tiled flat roof, but it's way too hot to go outside. There's a king sized bed, a desk, a minibar, chairs and a table. There's a TV with satellite (and finally, CNN). The room has free wifi, but service can be sporadic.
The bathroom is also very large with two sinks in opposite corners of the room, a deep tub, and a very large, all glass, walk in shower. The white subway tile, white tub and sinks make everything look very clean.
We drop our stuff and head out to get lunch and plan on walking over to see the citadel after that. Here is where my planning fails me a bit. I have a map I printed from Google, but it's next-to impossible to find anything from my list on it. The map the hotel gives us is even worse and has a completely skewed perspective and distances. So we pick the place which appears closest and go there.
Hue, Vietnam
July 7, 2009</b>
Today we have an 11 am flight to Hue. Instead of going by taxi to the airport, we decide to just book it through the hotel where an airport transfer is $16. I think I read it's somewhere around $10 by cab . If this were the Peninsula in Bangkok, where the hotel car is $85 to the airport (and a cab is still around $10), there would be no way, but for $6 more it's just easier to take the hotel's car and not worry about it.
The domestic terminal at the Hanoi airport doesn't have much going on. Very little food for sale, a couple of drink stands, and some overpriced souvenirs. Our flight on Vietnam Airlines is uneventful and takes about an hour to get to Hue. At the airport, there is another driver waiting for us, this one booked through Tonkin ($17). As it turns out, he tells us he will be the same driver taking us to Hoi An in two days time.
The ride in from the airport takes about 40 minutes. It's now after lunch time and we're both hungry and impatient by the time we arrive at the Villa Hue Hotel. The Villa Hue is attached to the Hue Hospitality school and is staffed by young and eager interns. The hotel itself is quite lovely, and the rooms are an excellent value. Our Superior room is huge and costs us around $65 a night including breakfast (best rate was booked through Tonkin). The public areas are not air-conditioned and are very hot, but the rooms have A/C.
Our room opens on to a foyer with a closet in it, a luggage stand and two doors; one to the bedroom and one to the bathroom. The bathroom also has a door into the bedroom. The room itself is huge and has a french door leading out onto a tiled flat roof, but it's way too hot to go outside. There's a king sized bed, a desk, a minibar, chairs and a table. There's a TV with satellite (and finally, CNN). The room has free wifi, but service can be sporadic.
The bathroom is also very large with two sinks in opposite corners of the room, a deep tub, and a very large, all glass, walk in shower. The white subway tile, white tub and sinks make everything look very clean.
We drop our stuff and head out to get lunch and plan on walking over to see the citadel after that. Here is where my planning fails me a bit. I have a map I printed from Google, but it's next-to impossible to find anything from my list on it. The map the hotel gives us is even worse and has a completely skewed perspective and distances. So we pick the place which appears closest and go there.
Aug 3rd, 2009, 04:52 AM
#91
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<b>Hue Continued..</b>
Hue is known for its Imperial cuisine as this was once the center of the Vietnamese royalty. It’s where the Imperial City/Citadel was, where the emperors lived and where they built Royal Tombs as massive tributes to themselves before they died. According to Reid on Travel, it’s said that of Vietnam’s 1700 dishes, 1400 may come from Hue. Emperors being finicky eaters, insisted on new dishes to try and their chef’s gave them many choices in the form of small bites, or, “Vietnamese tapas” if you will. We came here hoping to live like the emperors, to see, taste, and experience all Hue has to offer.
We set out in the bright hot humid heat, walking toward one of the recommendations on my list, called “Hang Me.” Like many places in Vietnam, if successful, there is a copycat with the same name right across the street. So if you go, make sure you go to the right place, #45 Vo Thi Sau St. This place is known for its glutenous rice dishes and only has 5 or 6 items on its laminated, oddly translated, photo-menu.
We started with Banh Beo, tiny plates of gelatinous rice with teeny dried shrimp and fried pork rind. We weren’t even sure how to eat them until one of the women who worked there showed us how to scoop it out with a spoon and dip it in the sauce. The other dish served on the basket was called Banh Ran and was described on the menu as “fried rice noodle, pig skin crispy.”
The third dish we tried was Banh Lok, which was more gelatinous rice served in a banana leaf package with a whole dried shrimp and a chunk of pork fat tucked inside. While I enjoyed the uniqueness of these dishes I sometimes found the chewy texture a bit too much to go back for more. Lunch was 110,000 VND, including 2 cokes, about $6. (thanks ekscrunchy for the recommendation)
Hue is known for its Imperial cuisine as this was once the center of the Vietnamese royalty. It’s where the Imperial City/Citadel was, where the emperors lived and where they built Royal Tombs as massive tributes to themselves before they died. According to Reid on Travel, it’s said that of Vietnam’s 1700 dishes, 1400 may come from Hue. Emperors being finicky eaters, insisted on new dishes to try and their chef’s gave them many choices in the form of small bites, or, “Vietnamese tapas” if you will. We came here hoping to live like the emperors, to see, taste, and experience all Hue has to offer.
We set out in the bright hot humid heat, walking toward one of the recommendations on my list, called “Hang Me.” Like many places in Vietnam, if successful, there is a copycat with the same name right across the street. So if you go, make sure you go to the right place, #45 Vo Thi Sau St. This place is known for its glutenous rice dishes and only has 5 or 6 items on its laminated, oddly translated, photo-menu.
We started with Banh Beo, tiny plates of gelatinous rice with teeny dried shrimp and fried pork rind. We weren’t even sure how to eat them until one of the women who worked there showed us how to scoop it out with a spoon and dip it in the sauce. The other dish served on the basket was called Banh Ran and was described on the menu as “fried rice noodle, pig skin crispy.”
The third dish we tried was Banh Lok, which was more gelatinous rice served in a banana leaf package with a whole dried shrimp and a chunk of pork fat tucked inside. While I enjoyed the uniqueness of these dishes I sometimes found the chewy texture a bit too much to go back for more. Lunch was 110,000 VND, including 2 cokes, about $6. (thanks ekscrunchy for the recommendation)
Aug 4th, 2009, 06:30 AM
#99
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,408
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
No worries folks. I'm not stopping. Just sayin' the occasional feedback and comments are always appreciated.
Unfortunately, real life often intrudes. This girl has a job besides being online, contrary to popular opinion. Plus, having visitors (David's Grandmother leaves for Taiwan today!) has impeded my home computer time.
So, thanks all for hanging in here with me!
<b>More Hue Day 1</b>
After lunch we walk across the bridge and toward the Citadel/Imperial Palace. It's overcast and extremely hot and humid out and given the lack of quality maps we have a hard time figuring out just how far we need to walk. None of the maps indicate the entrance so we just wing it, hoping we're heading in the right direction. Along the way, we see a guy pedaling a cyclo with a full size piece of furniture on it, a sideboard from the looks of it (there will be a photo of this on my website)
In the park, we see someone selling the usual war memorabilia, medals, dog tags and such. Even though I know most likely they are fakes (as there is a huge market for such stuff), I am a little disturbed by it. Fifty Seven thousand US soldiers died in Vietnam. I don't want their memory as a tourist souvenir. It seems disrespectful to me. If anything, those medals and dogtags should be home with their families, not bartered for on a sidewalk.
We cross the moat, go through the exterior walls of the city, and turn left. The first thing we come across is an outdoor "museum" of large military war vehicles, both Vietnamese and US. Basically, it's a bunch of tanks and armored vehicles on display. Interesting, if only for the captions on some which say things like, "Tank with 175 mm artillery. A modern war weapon of the US equipped to American and Puppet soldiers. Captured by the Liberation Army from the enemy...26 march 1975."
Unfortunately, real life often intrudes. This girl has a job besides being online, contrary to popular opinion. Plus, having visitors (David's Grandmother leaves for Taiwan today!) has impeded my home computer time.
So, thanks all for hanging in here with me!
<b>More Hue Day 1</b>
After lunch we walk across the bridge and toward the Citadel/Imperial Palace. It's overcast and extremely hot and humid out and given the lack of quality maps we have a hard time figuring out just how far we need to walk. None of the maps indicate the entrance so we just wing it, hoping we're heading in the right direction. Along the way, we see a guy pedaling a cyclo with a full size piece of furniture on it, a sideboard from the looks of it (there will be a photo of this on my website)
In the park, we see someone selling the usual war memorabilia, medals, dog tags and such. Even though I know most likely they are fakes (as there is a huge market for such stuff), I am a little disturbed by it. Fifty Seven thousand US soldiers died in Vietnam. I don't want their memory as a tourist souvenir. It seems disrespectful to me. If anything, those medals and dogtags should be home with their families, not bartered for on a sidewalk.
We cross the moat, go through the exterior walls of the city, and turn left. The first thing we come across is an outdoor "museum" of large military war vehicles, both Vietnamese and US. Basically, it's a bunch of tanks and armored vehicles on display. Interesting, if only for the captions on some which say things like, "Tank with 175 mm artillery. A modern war weapon of the US equipped to American and Puppet soldiers. Captured by the Liberation Army from the enemy...26 march 1975."
