Pattaya/BKK Trip Report

Feb 2nd, 2008, 04:19 PM
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 3,242
Pattaya/BKK Trip Report

WARNING! Gloria, this report may be harmful to your mental health.

Trip Logistics:

Departed on 1/16/08, returned on 1/29/08

Airline- United - one ticket purchased @ $1100, one via frequent flyer @ 60,000 miles.

Route- Houston to Chicago to Narita to Bangkok. Bangkok to Narita to Chicago to Houston.

This route was chosen because it had a seat configuration in coach of 2 x 5 x 2 for the Chicago to Narita and Narita to Chicago legs. For the other legs it was 3 x 4 x 3 configuration. We were able to get the aisle/window for our seats. We had a grumpy lady between us from Narita to BKK and a nice male Japanese between us from BKK to Narita.

Food/service- well it's United so our expectations were set very low. Once in Asia (Narita to Bangkok) the flight attendants were Asian and thus, the service level went way up as expected.

Jan. 18, 2008 -- Arrived in Bangkok just after midnight. I exchanged our $$$ for Baht at the airport. My exchange rate was 32.39 Baht/US. I carry credit cards for backup but pay everything with cash to avoid paying fees for credit card use and/or ATM transactions. I use a security wallet and have never had a problem this way. Getting thru the new airport was easy and we found the Novotel Hotel shuttle right outside of Gate 4 (they call it a gate - we would call it exit doorway). We reserved our first night at the Novotel by the airport. It is a brand new hotel and very, very nice! We had prepaid for our stay at the Novotel - about $190 US. I booked directly with the Novotel via their website.

Had a late dinner at their 24-hour restaurant. This hotel has a number of fine quality restaurants. Our room is very modern and tastefully decorated. Excellent bathroom. It has one of those raised basin sinks (I guess that's the fad now). The lobby is beautiful with glass walls. All in all, a great first class hotel!

We checked out at 12 noon on the Jan. 18th and were picked up at the hotel by Ratt. We had made arrangements with Ratt to take us to Pattaya. We had Ratt on our first trip to Thailand and she provided excellent service so we went with her again. Checking out what other drivers on the Fodors forum were offering, Ratt provided the best deal and of course we felt some loyalty to her. (There are other drivers mentioned on the forum that Ratt trained who then proceeded to take some of Ratt's customers.)

We chose to split our vacation between Pattaya and BKK. In planning for this vacation, we wanted to spend some time at a beach resort in Thailand. Now it must be understood that we are not beach people- that is to say we are not the type that likes to lie on the beach each day and soak up the sun and surf. So it did not matter that Pattaya's beaches were not pristine. We do like being at a beach resort, having a view of the water from our hotel but need access to other activities. Pattaya fits the bill as it is a beach resort that is only a 2-hour drive from BKK. It has other activities that met our interest -- shopping, shows, etc. So we decided that 4 nights in Pattaya and 6 nights in BKK was about right.

After much research, we settled on the Royal Cliff Grand and Spa for our stay in Pattaya and the Marriott Resort and Spa for BKK. I communicated with the hotel staff as well as the General Manager at the Royal Cliff Grand and Spa before our arrival.

Our hotel arrangements were made through our travel agent (a relative) Bunnie, who is west coast based. We prepaid our agent for our accommodations. We had the Grand Club Sea View Room. Cost was $185/night. This included daily access to their Club lounge which provided continental breakfast, afternoon snacks and soft drinks/juices [all day], as well as, free internet access.

Royal Cliff Grand and Spa Hotel (RCG&S), Pattaya -- For purposes of this report, let's call this hotel "RCG&S" for short. This hotel is comprised of a number of resorts -- on the low end, frequented largely by tour groups, is the Royal Cliff Beach Resort. The high end resort is the Royal Wing. The RCG&S is just below the Royal Wing in terms of cost. Based on our research, we found that the RCG&S offered the best accommodations.

We arrived at the hotel at about 2 pm. The bellman took our bags and we approached the front desk and identified ourselves handing over our passports. A staff ushered us over to the lobby bar, seated us, and ordered welcome drinks for us while they proceeded to check us in. What a beautiful lobby -- spacious and nicely decorated with glass walls. In a few minutes, the general manager of the resort greeted us and welcomed us to the resort. Soon a number of his staff appeared and also welcomed us. A guest relations manager escorted us to our room. We were given a room on the 18th floor. The hotel has 20 floors. Our room had what could only be described as a million dollar view of the Gulf of Thailand.

We had a balcony which had two full length lounge chairs and a shower! Also had an unobstructed view of the Gulf Of Thailand and the outer islands. Directly below was the pool and gardens. Our view afforded us the most stunning sunset over the Gulf which we watched everyday. The room was spacious - I would say maybe 40 sq. meters. All hardwoods on the floor and closets. Master control panel at the bedside. Mini bar, desk and chair, extra chair and ottoman, safe, robes, slippers, several bottles of water, hair dryer- outlets for 110 as well as 220 volt service. The bathroom was very unique in that it had private areas for both the shower and toilet and the bathtub can be accessed from the shower stall or the toilet (bathtub is in the middle of that portion of the bathroom). Double sinks with plenty of counter space and a lighted magnifying mirror. Plenty of lighting as well -- very bright. It had all the things that the wife requires! Each day we had a fresh fruit basket, fresh orchid arrangements, as well as the daily newspaper. In addition, the deputy general manager sent us a chocolate cake one day just to welcome us to the resort and an invitation to use the Catamaran to the islands.

Each day, we visited the club lounge in the morning and availed ourselves of the continental breakfast. This consisted of various juices (although for some reason these were juice like drinks and not real juice), coffee, tea and soft drinks and various breakfast pastries and fruits, yogurt, cereal. The staff at the lounge was very polite and helpful. We also were able to check our email each day. The lounge was open from 6 in the morning until 6:00 P.M. In the afternoon, light snacks and drinks were available.

The resort provides a free shuttle van to town several times a day although there were no morning runs. The resort provided a van that could be scheduled for 200 Baht for those wishing to go to town at times other than when the free shuttle was running.

We paid for the resort van to take us into town on the morning of the second day. The resort is about 10-15 minutes from the town. It is located high on a hill overlooking the gulf. We spent some time visiting the various shopping malls. We did not buy anything as we understood that shopping would be better in BKK. We had dim sum for lunch at the Rice Mill Restaurant of the Marriott. I recall it was about 450 Baht per person. We found the dim sum not very good, and as such, we were a bit disappointed. After walking around town some more after lunchm we took a taxi back to the hotel. By taxi I mean one of the blue pickup trucks whose bed has been outfitted with bench seats and a roof. These are all over the place and there are no real car taxis to speak of. One has to bargain with the driver to take us back to the hotel. We were advised that the fare should be 150 Baht. The driver wanted 200 Baht but he quickly came down to our price of 150. Off we went and were back at the hotel in about 15 minutes.

On the second day, the wife was so excited about the tropical fruits offered by the hotel that she bit her upper lip twice while eating Jackfruit. You will note in her pictures that she was puckering her lips. Not for any other reason but to try to hide her swollen upper lip. I told her she didn't need botox for her lips.

Although we wanted to go into town in the evening to experience the Walking Street, we were unable to do so because we were hit by jet lag -- couldn't stand up at 6 in the evening so we just slept with no dinner. The rest of our evenings were booked with the two shows that we had lined up. These were arranged and paid for ahead of time thru Oriental Escapes via their website. The first was the Alangkarn Cultural show about Thailand. It is about a 45-minute drive from the hotel. We were picked up by Oriental Escapes at about 5 pm. The show started about 7 pm. We had VIP seats which mean we had seats right up front. The theater seats maybe 500 people. It was a very entertaining show with native dancing, songs and quite impressive sets -- the stage is huge.

The next night we attended the Tiffinay Show. This is the ladyboy show. Again we had VIP seats, picked up by Oriental Escapes again. We were supposed to be picked up by 6:40 but the van was late and did not get us until about 7 pm. The show is located across town and we barely got into the theater as the show as about to start. We had front row seats. Now I get a lot of kidding on the Fodors forum by the likes of Bob and GPanda but folks I'm telling y'all that this is one classy show that should not be missed if you are in Pattaya.

There is great singing and dancing and the set designs are fabulous. It is all tastefully done, nothing improper -- a very entertaining show for all audiences young and old, male and female. As I recall, we paid about $108 for both shows for two tickets which included pick up at the hotel and drop off. These ladyboys are amazing -- a number of them would fool anyone. Unfortunately, cameras were not allowed during these shows.

Our remaining time at the Cliff was spent relaxing at the resort. Each Cliff resort has a number of its own restaurants. We found that the restaurants at the RCG&S were the best. This hotel has Thai, Japanese, and Chinese restaurants. We found the food at the Chinese restaurant to be the best -- although actually, all their restaurants deliver excellent food. The service at the Chinese restaurant was by far the best we have experienced anywhere and that includes the Penn!!!! Upon entering the Crysanthemum restaurant, one gets the very distinct impression of a very exclusive and expensive venue.

The decor is first rate, the menu is a book (ok whenever the menu is a heavy book-like affair you know immediately that it is going to be a very expensive affair). However to our surprise, the cost was very reasonable for a 5-star property. Make no mistake about it, the RCG&S is the real deal -- 5-star in every aspect and well-deserved! We sit down as the staff pulls out our chairs, places the cloth napkins across our laps and presents our menus. Then a staff member pins a small corsage (orchid) on my wife -- now tha's a nice touch! (Gloria does that happen at the Oriental?)

We order and the wait staff makes a few suggestions like ordering smaller portions of what we ordered. Soon a small table is brought over near our table and our food is served from this table. There is someone who prepares our tea and pours for us -- the tea cups are never empty. Our dishes are replaced periodically as we dine. Our dinner cost was about $30 total including tax and service- which consisted of 2 main entrees, a rice dish, an appetizer, tea and 2 cokes. During our meal, the manager of the restaurant would sometimes serve us and ask how we were doing. Then came the deputy general manager who happened to be dining at the restaurant and saw that we were conversing with the restaurant manager. He introduced himself and inquired about our experience. Warm towels are presented at the conclusion of the meal. My friends this is what defines 5-star service!

We also ate at the Thai (Lang Torn) and Japanese (Japanese Corner) restaurants at the RCG&S and as mentioned earlier, food is excellent in all their restaurants.

We ate lunch at the Panorama Restaurant of the Royal Cliff Beach Resort and found both the service and food not up to par with that of the RCG&S. It also seemed to be teeming with tour groups and a lot of Russians. In our research on the Cliff there were a number of complaints about the resort but these appeared to be directed at the Beach Resort and the unruly Russians and other Europeans who are not refined in their manners.

We filled our remaining time at the RCG&S enjoying the pool and watching the sunset from our balcony. In sum, I have to say that this is by far the best hotel experience, the RCG&S is a true 5-star property with outstanding accommodations and superior service. Considering the price we paid, it is an outstanding value!

On our last day, as we were checking out we were again greeted by the General Manager and the Deputy General Manager to whom we expressed our complete satisfaction staying at the hotel. It was truly a relaxing experience -- but now was ready to tackle BKK.

Marriott Resort and Spa Hotel, BKK -- We checked out from Royal Cliff Grand and Spa on Jan. 22nd. Ratt picked us up at noon and drove us to the Marriott Resort and Spa in BKK. The trip took about 2.5 hours. This was our first experience at the Marriott. On our earlier trip to BKK a few years back we stayed at the Penn -- which was a wonderful experience. This time we were unable to book the Penn at a favorable rate so we decided to try the Marriott Resort and Spa which as you all know is by the river. We booked a junior suite through Bunnie to make sure that the bathroom will pass mustard. We prepaid for our 6 night stay. Bunnie was able to get us the junior suite for $203/night which included daily buffet breakfast. The junior suite is about 46 sq, meters. It had 2 desks, mini bar, a safe, robes, slippers, a balcony, chair and ottoman and a king bed, fruit basket each day, newspaper and complimentary shoe shine daily.

The bathroom was very nice -- double sinks, hair dryer, separate shower and bath tub. Our reservation thru Bunnie did not indicate any club lounge benefits; however, I did print out our reservation from the Marriott website which indicated that such benefits were included in our reservation. At check in they indicated that club lounge benefits were not included in our reservation, however, upon presenting my Marriott print out indicating otherwise they granted such benefits (they indicated that the website had made a mistake). Club lounge benefits included high tea, cocktails and hors d'oeuvres in the evening and internet access in their business center. Hors d'oeuvres were real heavy, not the usual olives on crackers, salmon on crackers, etc. It also included 5 pieces of laundry service per stay.

Since we had covered most of the major temples and sights on our first trip to BKK -- this time around we were going to focus on relaxing, eating, shopping, and daily massage sessions for the wife while I chill out at the pool. Bob was right- the Marriott has the best pool in BKK!

One thing we noticed right away -- the level of service at the Marriott was not at the same level that we experienced at the RCG&S. At the Marriott, you have to call the attention of the waitstaff to fill your cup for coffee unlike in the RCG&S, you will never be in wanting. At the RCG&S, there is a silver pot of coffee on our table and it is always hot. Whereas at the Marriott, you will see at times that the staff will shake the coffee pot to see if there's anything left and he or she will pour that leftover coffee in your cup. Duh! Given that the Marriott is a 4-star resort we did not expect the service to be at the same level. Don't get me wrong -- the people at the Marriott were nice and helpful -- it's just that you notice the difference right away at check in. The waitstaff at the Marriott are not trained to anticipate the needs of the guests. They walk around with the coffee pot without checking if you want more coffee or if your cup is half-empty -- so they walk away.

Our room was in the south wing -- our view was a river view but the best river view is from rooms in the north wing which offer a view of the river in the direction of the sky train.

At first we tried to figure out what was the best schedule for eating, shopping, having the massages etc. We settled on having a big breakfast, then heading out to do some shopping, coming back in the early afternoon whereby the wife would have her massage and I would chill out at the pool. This schedule seemed to work best as it was not trying to do too much.

In my trip research, I collected quite a lot of info on the day spas around BKK. However we ended up not using any of these as the wife wanted to have her massages done in the hotel room. At first we talked with the people in the mall connected to the hotel who provide such service. However this did not work out as there was a disagreement on the particulars of the service to be provided. We then contacted Ratt who put us in touch with Sunum, a woman who has been performing such service for many years (more than 30) and agreed to come to our hotel to provide the service. We were able to negotiate a very favorable rate- 800 Baht for 2 hours of massage with oil. This rate reflected the fact that my wife agreed to take this service every day that we were at the hotel. It did not include tips.

My wife was very pleased with this woman's service -- which include a full body and facial massage each day for two hours. She had her massage every day at 3 pm (on some days it was 2 pm). This woman would show up 15 minutes ahead of time and would prep in the room (on her own, the time for prep was not a part of the 2 hours). The wife's daily 2-hr. massage was a Thai massage with oil (not the dry Thai massage). The wife asked for a gentle massage -- nothing of that wrestling kind. The wife got her way.

This woman was also able to detect a number of health issues that my wife was experiencing through her massage -- amazing! She diagnosed her correctly that I told the wife that next thing the masseuse will ask her if she has a will! We have her name and contact info if anyone is interested in getting her services.

Our shopping excursions consisted of visits to MBK, Paragon and Amarin Plaza. For those who cannot remember whether it's MKB or KMB or MBK -- just remember M then BK for Burger King.

We would take the Marriott boat over to the sky train each day and take the sky train into the shopping areas. The wife does not tolerate the heat of BKK very well so we stuck to the air conditioned venues. The wife found some shoes that she really liked at a store near the Big C shopping center- but the woman was unwilling to negotiate on price. Most of the shoes in the store were marked but these did not have a price. We suspected she upped the price when she saw that we were not locals. In these cases we always bargain off the price quoted. She would not budge- so we said no thanks and left.

On some days we would take the Marriott boat to the sky train, and then take the Oriental boat to the Oriental Hotel. (Each time I pass through the Oriental Hotel I continue to ask myself what the attraction is for this place. The lobby is not as spacious and beautiful as the RCG&S. The garden area around the hotel is small and in no way compares to the Marriott. The pool is nothing to speak of -- again the Marriott is better in this regard. Given the price that this place charges, I'm convinced that Bob is right -- its way overpriced for what you get. I suppose it was the grand dame of BKK in years past and is in part relying on its historic past to carry it forward. The lobby was always crowded. It's like a convention center). One does not have to stay at the Oriental to know that it's far from the Penn. It's not the Mandarin of olden times when the Mandarin was regarded as a luxury hotel.

We visited the many silver shops on the main drag behind the Oriental Hotel. A number of these shops are wholesale only which means that one would need to buy so many of a particular item. There are, however, plenty of shops that sell both retail, as well as, wholesale. We bought items in a number of these shops. We focused on the shops that had their silver items in plastic containers -- row upon row of rings, bracelets, necklaces, earrings, etc. The items are generally sold by weight -- so much Baht per gram. These ranged from 20 to 32 Baht per gram. These shops were not willing to bargain on their prices unless one purchased several thousand Baht worth of items. No matter the prices were very reasonable.

It was in this area that the wife was able to purchase her Asian fruits that she had been longing for but could not find in Houston. We bought the fruits from the street vendors. The fruits were not peeled and they were in a glass container.

Much has been written on this forum about some hotels being on the wrong side of the river and the time needed to get from the hotels to the sky train via the hotel river boats. We look forward to taking the hotel boats -- in this case the Marriott boats. These boats run every 15 minutes and take about as long to get to the sky train. It's a great ride, with the breeze blowing in your face as you cruise gently down the river -- its part of the total BKK experience. What a great way to start and end your day! Now I must say that as these hotel shuttle boats go- I give high marks to the Marriott. They provide cushioned seats and refreshing cold towels on the return trip (not so on the Oriental or Penn boats!). BTW, did you notice that the Oriental boats have no life vests? When you look up you see 4 life preservers so make sure you sit by one of them. Gloria, you may want to bring your own!

During our stay in BKK, we again took in the Calypso Cabaret. We had booked our tickets thru their website and were able to select the same seats (front row) that we had on our first trip to BKK. (skip the dinner -- just do the show -- about $25 per person at the Asia Hotel, connected to the sky train and it starts around 8:15). We recognized some of the same performers from last time. Once again they put on a very entertaining show -- it's great entertainment for everyone.

While we had plans of trying out a number of restaurants in BKK, we found that after having a big breakfast we were skipping lunch and just doing the afternoon tea and evening snacks and drinks at the Marriott. The afternoon tea consisted of finger sandwiches and desserts, while the evening afffair included usually 6 hot items, a number of other delicacies, as well as desserts.

Service at the Marriott was fine although after our experience at the RCG&S, we did notice the difference. In particular, the service at the breakfast buffet was mediocre. Case in point there was plenty of staff -- but they seemed somewhat disconnected. One had to ask repeatedly for refills on the coffee, and they would seem to be oblivious to cleaning off your table at times. Contrast this to the RCG&S where your cup is never more than half empty and the staff is very attentive to your table area. We did not see a manager at the breakfast buffet during our stay. At the RCG&S, there was always a manager present ensuring that service delivery was up to par.

On our last day we asked for a late checkout and were given one (3 pm no extra charge). We went back to the area behind the Oriental Hotel and shopped for some additional silver items. We returned to the Marriott in time for afternoon tea, and then checked out of the hotel at 3 pm. Ratt's husband picked us up at 4 pm as agreed and drove us to the Novotel where we spent the night and then boarded our flight home the next morning. Our flight was at 6:30 am which is why we decided to spend the night at the Novotel by the airport.

On our return trip on the Narita to Chicago leg, we enjoyed an upgrade from coach to premium economy. We have relatives that work at United and they put in the good word. Once we were airborne, the attendants moved us up to premium economy, gave us a bottle of champagne in an ice bucket, and gave us additional food from time to time. This made the long ride over the ocean very comfortable.

In conclusion, we had a very relaxing vacation and can't say enough about our experience at the Royal Cliff Grand and Spa Hotel. The wife was happy just checking out the big property. We enjoyed the shows. The resort's restaurants and relaxing atmosphere validated our choice of Pattaya for a beach getaway. The Marriott in BKK delivered value for the money. I found the gardens and pool very relaxing and the junior suite with all the club benefits just added to our enjoyment there.

BillT is offline  
Feb 2nd, 2008, 06:18 PM
Join Date: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,334
Good report! Thanks for sharing. Sounds like you enjoyed yourselves in Thailand once again.

I'd love to get to Pattya sometime, and your hotel sounds like my kind of place!

simpsonc510 is offline  
Feb 2nd, 2008, 06:26 PM
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 33,021
Thanks for your report! I agree that being on the "wrong" side of the river doesn't seem to be an issue for those who have been to Bangkok before, but a number of first-timers have found it a barrier to getting out and about.

It sounds like you had a great time in Pattaya. I notice that there are lots of new condo projects there. I looked (via internet) at one with the million dollar view... tempting.
Kathie is offline  
Feb 2nd, 2008, 09:35 PM
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 29,005
but what about the brown water at the O....did you see any while passing through??

the cliff has been #1 in pattaya for years....glad it still holds up to its pattaya friend tells me that the russians are really causing many problems in pattaya...

i am glad the marriott worked out for you...i was not sure olive would like is as you say value for money....and it is only 4 star!!! but a solid 4 star....karen has had coffee problems with the buffet in the morning you may have noticed they put a ton of people through there in a very short time...i am alwasy impressed that they keep the serving tables so fresh and full of food... we know one of the hostesses so we get really good service however...

so next time you can split your time between the penn and the bkk....

btw, the marriott in pattaya is the first hotel bought by the american owner, as the base of his asian empire....its a bit tired all around....the pool area there is nice too...
rhkkmk is offline  
Feb 3rd, 2008, 10:29 AM
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 6,751
RC Pattaya has been around 20 years+, has plenty of outstanding awards. Glad you liked Alangkarn and Tiffany's, a good mix to see those 2, Alcazar is similar to Tiffany's.
JamesA is offline  
Feb 3rd, 2008, 01:15 PM
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Good report, Bill. Not sure how Olive appreciates being referred to repeatedly as "the wife". There'd be hell to pay with my strong-minded better half if she saw that in one of my posts ;-)
Craig is offline  
Feb 3rd, 2008, 02:23 PM
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 177
You're right, Craig. It would have been good if he writes it as "The Wife" like "The Donald" -- some form of respect; the wife -- the who???. Yes, he's lucky I'm Asian.

On the other hand, I just pick my battles so I can make sure I win the war.

For Gloria: I wanted to warn you. Please understand this is not a conspiracy. Maybe this is the reason why I was holding on to the report but I cannot always dictate to BillT. I don't know why Bill enjoys pulling your leg. You've got to know him to know that he is a nice person (I'm sure Bob will agree). He just enjoys kidding you because you show him that he courts your ire.

MrsBillT is offline  
Feb 5th, 2008, 05:04 AM
Original Poster
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Topping for that person who was trying to figure out which beach resort to book.
BillT is offline  
Feb 5th, 2008, 10:50 PM
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 414
Hello "Tito" Bill & "Tita" Olive,

Mabuhay !!! Thanks for the great detailed report. It is so amusing to read how your many "parientes" deliver to make another upgrade connection for your various requirements. My kids marvel at how & where those connections get us when we're in the Phil.

Best regards from freezing Tokyo - it's snowing again, well, more like flurries but freezing inside our non centralized home. We had real snow last Sunday.
bmttokyo is offline  
Feb 6th, 2008, 08:09 AM
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 4,282
Great report. My mental health these days is too involved with politics to worry about the Oriental.

But I have a request for you or Bob. Ratt emailed me some photos of her new B and B and some info about it-- I think hoping I would stay there for all or part of my trip. Anyway, since so many of us know her I thought others would like to see them as well. However, I am a digital photo idiot so don't know how to post them. If either of you or anyone else would like to either see them or post them on the forum could you email me at [email protected] ? Thanks
glorialf is offline  
Feb 6th, 2008, 08:16 AM
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i have no idea how to do it from an e mail....undoubtably someone else will have knowledge...i've sent you a seperate e mail....

mickey mouse for president!!!!
rhkkmk is offline  
Feb 6th, 2008, 08:43 AM
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Dare I ask who Gloria is rooting for?
BillT is offline  
Feb 6th, 2008, 08:48 AM
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I bet his home state is Illinois...
Craig is offline  
Feb 7th, 2008, 05:19 AM
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If someone will give me instructions on how to post my trip pictures from the Kodak Gallery site I will post a link here.
Otherwise if you are interested in viewing our trip photos send me you email address to :
[email protected]
BillT is offline  
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