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PART II, RHK'S IN ASIA

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PART II, RHK'S IN ASIA

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Old May 31st, 2008, 12:38 AM
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carole---book alam shanti now so as not to be disappointed....one fodorite has already been booked out....you want the 'gangga room' that we had, if not the yanna ? room downstairs from it---the two best rooms---$125++ per nite at this time of year....simply fantastic...pictures to follow...no deposit required...
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Old May 31st, 2008, 01:47 AM
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Bob
Just checked out Alam Shanti on the web it looks GORGEOUS and what a bargain!! if that had four seasons above the door (and it looks as nice as a 4S) would be at least triple the price....
can wait to see your photos.
Muffin is off in Portugal playing Golf so i am booking trips whilst he is away so he can't say no!!!!
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Old May 31st, 2008, 06:48 AM
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nikki---book lots of flights...

it is not the same as the ritz or 4 seasons...it is nicer in almost everyway....

finding it is the only thing i can hold over andy's head...

hope to write more tomorrow....been doing skype with all the grandchildren today....

this tandjung sari hotel in sanur is also very nice, but not as nice as the alam shanti....

i need reinforcements to deal with andy....can anyone be here by tomorrow???
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Old May 31st, 2008, 09:33 AM
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Bob - sounds like you are having a great trip. Am anxiously awaiting the end of school and the start of our trip. We are looking forward to see you in BKK and then having a chance to join the SR gtg with Terry. See you soon. Good luck with Andy ! Maybe we'll get to meet him at some point also.
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Old May 31st, 2008, 11:06 AM
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Jcasale - despite what Bob says andy is a real hoot. We went out for Dinner with the four of them in BKK and we had a brilliant night (i seem to remember we got "looks" for being noisy.
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Old May 31st, 2008, 12:24 PM
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Hi Bob,

Sounds like you are staying at some awesome resorts in Bali! Will you send some photos when you get a chance? Where you are residing and eating these days seems like heaven-on-earth, thanks to other Fodorites' recommendations to you!

Glad that you and Karen and Andy and Beth are having a great time together...I can just about feel all the hooting and hollering and laughter coming from that part of the world where you guys are! The four of you are so lucky to get to travel together over the years!

Say hi to Karen, Gpanda and Beth for us...and enjoy the rest of your trip.

Oh, and thanks for making preliminary introductions to me and Jenni, whom we'll see in Siem Reap this July.

Terryr
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Old May 31st, 2008, 01:59 PM
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Bob,
It does indeed sound like you are having a ball. The rest of us have to live vicariously......

And, you are right about the Alam Shanti. I emailed them and their large rooms are already sold out for August. I am looking at the Alam Jiwa, another one of their properties.

Have a great time.
Tengo
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Old May 31st, 2008, 03:13 PM
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Yesterday was a nearly perfect beach day. We finally got Bob's medications adjusted properly. Of course, the efeects wore down and at dinner, he pulled the old "there's a foreign object in my dessert" trick. The manager was called over (big surprise) and informed of the situation. He graciously decided to believe Bob's ridiculous story and Bob's dessert was free and we got 10% off the total cost.
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Old May 31st, 2008, 03:34 PM
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Let's hope the medication holds when we meet Bob in a few weeks ;-)! I love reading all of the good natured ribbing on this board. Even though I haven't met anyone yet face to face I feel as if I have some new friends. And of course I have some new places to add to the "bucket list" - Bali sounds fabulous!
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Old May 31st, 2008, 07:12 PM
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now i have antibiotic pills added today so i should be fine by the time we meet up....not sure of my mental state however after over a week with the panda....mr only, mrs is a sweetie....

as my kids told us: "YOU DO NOT MEET UP WITH PEOPLE FROM THE INTERNET....AXE MURDERERS....

this having been said we have made such good friends....gpanda, craig, carol, HI, lcuy, ken, pook, gal, patricia, etc. etc.....
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Old May 31st, 2008, 09:16 PM
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May 29, 2008 Thursday



So we were to meet the girls about 7:15 at the restaurant, Casa Luna…..it is written up in all the guidebooks, etc, but unfortunately that is where the fame ends…..it is attractive enough and quite busy…I suspect this is based on its fame….andy and the ladies dinners were ok, but mine was not able to be eaten….the taste was ok, but my grilled chicken was not able to be cut with either a regular dinner knife or with a steak knife…I sent it back and ordered chicken satay, which they did not bring for 30-40 minutes….this was unbelievable….the others were long finished their meals….others came, ate and left before my re-order was delivered….the waitress made a big deal about not charging me for the sent back dish----duh!!! The second dish should have been free imo, too….btw, it was the worst satay I have had thus far---just barely cooked and also a bit tough….GIVE THIS PLACE A SKIP, in all of our opinions…

Andy has said that I need to be less factual in my report and make it more personal so I think he might be right for once, so lets see how it goes….

The hotel car came for us and off to bed ending a really lovely day….relax, eat, relax, internet finally, dinner, and finally bed….

Again I have to say something about Alam Shanti….it is part of a three property network of small hotels, plus the café wayan…..the properties are all beautifully appointed and comfortable….iop’s this is the “true bali”, or at least it feels that way….when my pics are available you can see for yourselves….already our room, gangga, is fully booked for the month of august….
The gardens and public areas are simply lovely….the reception is a small area with a few tables and chairs and a simple desk---totally open air….cars pull right up to this area---15 feet….the whole hotel is set way back from the road with the new spa out front….you enter through a very narrow driveway and several gates….
From reception there are walkways, all bordered with lovely tropical gardens and plants, statuary, bali gates, etc….there are only 4 housing buildings, each with 2 rooms—up and down….our rooms were the furthest from reception and just next to the medium sized swimming pool….gangga on top was our room and yamuna was pandas, down below….

Each room is huge consisting of several different areas: you enter a super large bedroom, maybe 70 sqm….it has a king and a double bed in it…..near the dbl is a huge open suitcase/dressing room storage area….off of this is an open air bathroom….our bathroom was actually four separate areas….first there was the flower surrounded and walled cold shower with a rough stone/mosaic floor….plants hung from the top of the wall, from the walls and from a small garden planted within….there was also statuary (small boy pissing---we never found out how to turn on the water for him)……the next area was a huge sink area---maybe double sinks, I can’t remember….each area had separate lighting btw…..next was a toilet areas….finally was the largest area which had a huge tub (2 plus people) and the main shower, hot and cold….the tub had a hand held shower handle…..so really 4 could clean up at once….one in cold shower (andy)….two in the bathtub and one in the main shower….good place for a GTG???
The main shower again had a rough stone/mosaic floor, making is non-slip and nice on your feel….all water worked very well, there was plenty of hot water at all times and the drainage was perfect….
While using the main shower your view was out over the rice paddies…..i watched a farmer plowing his paddy while showering the first AM…..

For anyone who has never taken an outdoor shower, there is nothing like it!!!!

The most lovely aspect of these two units is the huge and I mean huge balconies….they must be 50 feet or more long by perhaps 15 feet…..ours had an L shaped couch built-in with bolsters and heavy cushions in an attractive solid color canvas sort of fabric….they had a large table in front of them….there was a round wood dining table that could seat 6, but it was wonderful for 4 for breakfast each morning…. The décor is too much to even describe….there is an old looking chandelier which emits soft lighting---it reminds me of something in paris….the walls and flat surfaces are all decorated with wood panels, statues, painted wood, etc. etc…
We had breakfast delivered here each morning…..the breakfasts were huge and cooked to order…..we have decided that the fruits here are not as sweet and succulent as in Thailand however….
One warning….leave the lites on the balcony on all nite as the bats love to make dive bomb attacks through the porch and shit all over things….there are also bamboo curtains that can be lowered which might prevent that too, and also shield the porch from the sun, but we found the roof overhand did nicely with the sun….btw, the roofs are all thatch….

I failed to mention that the 2nd story room have a huge atrium ceiling made from thatch….there are painted/decorated beams overhead and small hi intensity lights to highlight the beams and roof line at nite….

I developed a little saying shortly after arrival that I kept repeating, and continue to repeat: “ HAVE I TOLD YOU…..HOW LUCKY WE ARE TO HAVE FOUND THIS HOTEL…”…..each time we laugh like children, because it is not only funny but so true!!! Cost $125++ per nite per room…..andy points out it should be double if not triple this amount…..book early to avoid disappointment….

The other rooms are quite nice also but do not have the stellar view of these two, but they only cost $95++ I think….

One of the best places we have ever stayed….its like a private estate in the country….think country house weekend outside London….only thing missing is the tiaras….






May 30, 2008


Breakfast was werved on the upper balcony at 8:30….sadly this was to be our last breakfast here….we will, and do, really miss the place already….

Putu was picking us up at 11 to make the hotel transfer to sanur down on the ocean….also on the agenda was a few more shopping stops….the ride between towns is 45 min to an hour but we managed to make it 4 hours…the ladies wanted to stop off at the ubud market one more time….last minute junk purchases…: couple pair of wooden salad tongs for about $3 each, set of 8 placemats and a runner for $19 (made from roots and fabric), dolls for the kids…success
Beth wanted to stop in Celuk, the silver town….she had the name of Prapen…putu knew it of course…..bingo….the building is magnificent on its own…. It is a sort of open air building most of wood with several rooms surrounding a central goldfish pond with ornaments and reeds growing within…..first we visited the workshop where production was going on, then on to the showroom with is huge with huge cases displaying the wares….all were silver or at least 98%.....prices were very reasonable…..k bought a couple of pairs of ear rings…..all hand made and very intricately fashioned….one has a stone the other an 18K gold dome in the middle of the silver….$11-20 each….plastic would cost more at home….


Putu then took us to another mask maker….this is an old guy, who sadly was not there….he was off at a temple for several days reworking some of their celebration costumes and masks….he is reported to be quite eccentric so we really looked forward to meeting him: I wayan tangguh is his name….open workshop….we did meet a son and grandson and his unique wife….lovely to be able to visit a home workshop…..andy and beth bought quite a lovely and colorful wall handing carved from wood….

Finally off to sanur for real…..putu took us to a fantastic beach side restaurant at the northern end of sanur beach---Toot Sie…..delicious lunch….lots of kites flying on the beach this day…..one really huge one….

From there we headed down the beach road to our new hotel the Tandjung Sari…..this is one of the older properties dating back to the 1960’s…..its quite lovely and right on the beach….our bungalow, which we are sharing is directly next to the small pool and about 150 feet from the beach….it is two story and a bit contemporary and a bit traditional….you enter a medium sized sitting room through 4 large swing out doors…there is a small dining table and 4 chairs, a full sofa with a coffee table in front and a couple of other chairs plus decorative items, plus a big, for aisa, fridge, and a circular stairway leading to the second story….
To the right and to the left are had carved doors, each leading to a bedroom suite….strangely andy is on the right and we are on the left….go figure….maybe there is hope for him????
Each of the identical rooms has a king canopy bed with mosquito netting….storage areas and a small desk….each has glass doors opening onto our private garden in the front with grass and plantings….behind a large permanent wardrobe, which is double sided is the large bathroom…..the corner tub with its own large window and garden outside would hold 4 I’m guessing…..there are built-in cabinets in the wardrobe on this side…there are huge double blue marble sinks…..next to the sinks is a unique circular shower area created by a circular plaster/stone wall with an opening away from the sinks for entrance….next to it is a toilet room---finally one with a fan….perfect for me with bali belly…..

On the upper level, up the circular staircase which is glass enclosed is a huge indoor, but open air, room with a sofa and some chairs and tables and an even larger roofed sun deck with full view of the ocean….great for cocktails, etc….and for cigars for andy…..the inner room has a thatched roof and the outer area sort of a plastic roof---maybe a bit tacky…
This building is called their “family bungalow” of which there is only one….its perfect for a family or for two couples….two friendly couples….i think we are paying $246 net per nite inclusive with breakfast….that is for the two rooms….

The property is older but very decently maintained…..it has the feel of a village….it too is set way back from the main road with a very stately dual carriage planted and decorated drive….

The food is quite good here and the price seems to be about standard for Indonesia…which is cheap by the way….

After checking in and giving putu a break for about an hour we drove through nusa dua, as none of us had been there before….andy and beth end their bali vacation with 2 days here at one of the large Sheraton chain hotels….K and I have always wanted to see it…..we had read nothing but negatives about nusa dua…..we found it quite pleasant but we did not visit any specific hotel…..its more international in feel than the rest of bali, which is fine, but it is necessary not to isolate yourselves there….as is so often said these hotels could be anyplace….

We had a short visit to the public beach which was decent….

Next putu took us to Jimbaran beach to the fishing village….this was huge fun….boats were coming and going from the beach….the boats are very colorful as are the people who work them and the local areas….the “harbor” area was full of gaily painted fishing boats….the boats rely on manual labor so there are many men on each boat as they cast off for their voyages….voyages last from a few hours to several days….its a very very hard life I should think…..
We walked directly from the beach to the fish market….this was really “dirty” and fish smelling….it was also great fun…..we saw all kinds of fresh fish including a huge shark which had been brought in….lots of great face pictures….

We had decided to skip sundown and to stay at the beach….it was very cloudy anyways so this proved to be a good idea…..

Putu drove us to his favorite fish place on jimbaran beach….its called Menega café….the grills are fired by the inside of the coconut shell which make for a huge smoky atmosphere…..you have to stand amongst the heavy smoke and select your fish, prawns etc for dinner….each is weighed, cooked and brought to your table on the beach….there are nice wooden tables and chairs on the beach and they are candle lit…..there must be 40 restaurants all crowded together on this beach for fresh fish…..we ordered 2 snappers and ˝ kilo of prawns…
We then were assigned a table…beth and I had quite a problem with the smoke, but it was worth it for the experience….

While enjoying our beers on the beach and waiting for the fish, putu happened to mention that it was this restaurant where the double bombing had been done a couple of years ago….lesson in how to feel safe…

Our food arrived….the fish and prawns were delicious and andy ordered one crab for himself as well….rice was served in a huge wicker basket and there were some veggies too….A DELICIOUS DINNER…. A unique experience….highly recommended….
I think the dinner for 5 with drinks was about $50…..fruit was served for dessert…

Putu drove the smoky smelling us back to the hotel….our clothes stunk of smoke even days later….

Off to bed, a tired bunch….

Putu: his name is putu arnawa…he lives near ubud….he is getting married this summer, maybe??? His cost is about 350,000 for 10 hours…his site is: www.balifriend.net
His e mail is: [email protected]
Andy says he is the best guide he has ever had….he is bright, well spoken, funny and “with it”….he knows lots of American slang, has traveled to America and elsewhere…he is university trained….his dad is in the tourist industry….he has a brand new suv….craig introduced him to us several years ago and I have been pleased to suggest him to each person who intended to visit bali….change does not throw him for a loop like many guides….he seems to like it…he is totally flexible….he is one guide who you do not need to think in terms of percentages when offering a tip….you want to empty your wallet for him….he is a unique combo of traditional and modern…..
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Old May 31st, 2008, 09:54 PM
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May 31, 2008


Andy ordered coffee delivered to the room for the 3 of them….when I got up we then went for a late breakfast after fooling for quite a while with the computer….everyone getting caught up to date and we talking on skype with our family in New England….

The breakfast was fresh cooked and delicious….andy and I took laundry out to the main road….incredibly cheap again… the ladies spent the day on the beach under umbrellas, but managed both to get quite red….andy swam and I just layed low trying not to think about bali belly---no pain just annoyance and pre-planning necessary….the ladies ordered lunch delivered on the beach and andy and I sat at a table beachside and had lunch…during lunch we spoke with a dutch couple ---strangely he works for EMC headquartered near to our homes….

At 5 we all returned to the bungalow and went up on the upper level and enjoyed beers and nuts and watched the world go by….a really nice down day!!!

After dark we headed out for our 7:15 res at the village reastaurant, the Italian place we had eaten after our initial arrival in bali…..we shopped for a few minutes at the lovely attached shop as we had done before….

We had fun at dinner…..k and I had caparcchio (sp) of beef followed by swordfish and cheese tortellini’s with white sauce and walnuts oil—beth had red sauce raviolis and andy had the same as me….delicious desserts, but mine had a small piece of metal in my last bite…

We walked back to the hotel which was very near, stopping to pick up our laundry on the way….

We did more skype with our family and nearly drove andy and beth off the wall….early to bed again...

I had more stomach problems during the nite which lead to anti-biotics this AM, which seem to be doing the trick….


so i think we are now up to date and at 2PM its time to join the others for lunch by the beach...

bye for now...

bob
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Old Jun 1st, 2008, 03:47 AM
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Great report, bob. Makes me want to go back just to check out the fabulous food and great hotels. Glad to hear Putu is thinking of getting married. I believe he has had the same girl friend for years???
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Old Jun 1st, 2008, 05:57 AM
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Bob's prose is not as atrocious as usual. While the facts are mostly correct, he does provide a decent contemporaeous report.

One note, Karen split the crab with me. I ordered the food at the Jimbarran Beach restaurant and was criticized that I did not get enough for five. Of course, there was plenty, but did anyone apologize? I think not.

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Old Jun 1st, 2008, 06:27 AM
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8 years to be exact craig....

you would love alam shanti...ubud is growing leaps and bounds, which is not a good thing...toooo much american being spoken there on the streets to suit me....sanur is better
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Old Jun 1st, 2008, 06:46 AM
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june 1, 2008


up a bit late today as i had been up in the nite a few times with my "condition"....over for a late breakfast....it is so nice eating breakfast by the beach....the service is very good here and they seem to know me....

for instance they now automatically bring me a chair without arms....my butt does not fit correctly in an asian butt chair...

the ladies went directly to the beach....andy and i returned to the bungalow....i did my trip report updates finally....andy went to smoke....

we met for a late lunch out near the beach.....andy and i sat around for a while after lunch just relaxing and eventually watching a kids bali dance lesson which is sponsored twice a week by the foundation that this hotel's owners have set up to rekindle some of bali's heritage and keep it passing from one generation to another....

i eventually returned to the bungalow and went up on the upper deck and read for the rest of the afternoon, and even snoozed a bit....everyone returned from their activities and we had drinks upstairs and watched night come upon us...

earlier andy had run into an austrailian guy whom we had become friendly with in ubud....he and his wife came to see alam shanti....they often come to bali for holidays...
andy invited them to meet us this evening at an indonesian restaurant that they had suggested to us earlier....

so about 7 we all met there....the restaurant is called Apa Kabar on the beach road in sanur....they will send a car for you and pick you up...tel: 282153....the food was good but not fabulous...each couple ordered a dinner for two...large amount of food....we had a mixed indonesian tray and andy had the mixed seafood tray....

we had lots of laughs and found out quite a bit about life in australia...

denis and lorraine are their names...we tried to convert them to fodors...we will see....they are widely travelled...

rest. took us back to the hotel...

time for bed now....
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Old Jun 1st, 2008, 07:11 AM
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Enjoying your report. It's been almost 10 years since were in Bali and it's interesting to hear of the changes. The hotel in Ubud sounds lovely.
We stayed in a $7 a night guest house when we were there. Actually, it was quite "posh" for us at the time and even had a full, western style bathroom. Good thing too because I also had a touch of Bali Belly as you did (sorry to hear about that).
So nice that you 4 are having a great time together and it sounds like both boys are behaving themselves. ;-)
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Old Jun 1st, 2008, 02:57 PM
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I've been putting a mild toxin is his food. Do you think he's catching on? The more he sleeps the better for us. We split in two days, so I'm going to reduce the dosage. No reason to be mean.
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Old Jun 2nd, 2008, 01:47 PM
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Yesterday, Bob went out of his way to make friends with Tina, a shopkeeper with a store just off the beach at our hotel. Of couse, when Karen decided not to buy anything, Tina was quite persistent in her entreaties. It was quite amusing to watch and classic Bob.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2008, 07:41 PM
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sitting at K/L AIRPORT ON WAY BACK TO bkk on air asia...flt yesterday was early leaving bali and 30 min early to k/l...we love air asia...cabin is comfortable too...
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