Palaces, temples and thali - another trip to India !
True wild west style and a camel for a change...
Nov 13th, 2018 | 06:35 PM
#63
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 27,709
Likes: 1
pour bucket of water over yourself. Lather. Rinse by pouring another bucket of water over yourself!
Rome2Rio times are inaccurate, at least on this trip
Nov 14th, 2018 | 01:50 PM
#65
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Likes: 5
Dear all,
rather than hijack your TR, Sartoric, i have started a new thread about the trip I am thinking about making early next year. Here is the link:
To tour [India] or not to tour, that is the question.
I would be most grateful for your input.
rather than hijack your TR, Sartoric, i have started a new thread about the trip I am thinking about making early next year. Here is the link:
To tour [India] or not to tour, that is the question.
I would be most grateful for your input.
Nov 14th, 2018 | 05:13 PM
#66
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,488
Likes: 0
Thanks for comments people, just to clarify my meaning of “bucket shower” is one bucket, one dipper and one bar of soap...don’t plunge your hand straight into the bucket to test the temperature, it can be very hot - ouch. Use dipper to dampen self, use soap to lather self, use dipper again to rinse self. It’s sometimes better than one of those shower heads that send out five fine streams in disparate directions. Some places provide a small plastic stool to crouch on, which makes it easier.
Thanks again CaliNurse, I’ve decided to book an early morning flight to Delhi to avoid the five hour drive, and will book Choti Haveli for last night in India.
We rose early in the desert for sunrise photos, (easy when the 4.5 hour time difference from home is taken into account) wandered the nearby area, practiced cow whispering, spotted some lovely birds and startled a few peacocks. Breakfast was simple and delicious, cracked wheat porridge with banana slices and pomegranate seeds plus paratha and lots of chai. We had time to chat with Gemar a dedicated environmentalist, knowledgeable about his hood. Sad to say farewell, I would like to spend more time here.
Ajmer is only 13 kilometres from the more oft visited Pushkar. The journey here took the best part of six hours. First we stopped for minor car repairs, where the all male clientele stared unrelentingly at me...they have no shame, even when you stare right back at em. The drive is a bit boring, through endless flat scrubby farming land. We stopped for a late lunch in Nagaur, delicious veg seekh kebab, dal fry and veg fried rice with naan, plus cold beer.
Our hotel in Ajmer is Badnor House a heritage property with only five rooms. Greeted by an ancient gatekeeper and an unsmiling 20 something, we’re shown to a comfortable room with a giant bed, a modern bathroom and a lovely terrace set in pretty gardens. I went to find reception with passports in hand, was handed a phone by surly 20 something. I spoke with the owner who was away, he apologised for not being here, relayed messages to the surly 20 something (named Paroo) who spoke no English. The owner Sanjay on a poor connection suggested various options for dinner nearby and mentioned he ran walking tours of the city....we were the only guests. R offered to take us out for dinner, but we were too knackered to consider going out, had snacks brought from home in the room.
Tomorrow we will visit Pushkar, deftly avoid a common scam and enjoy “special apple juice” (beer) at a rooftop restaurant in this alcohol free town.
Thanks again CaliNurse, I’ve decided to book an early morning flight to Delhi to avoid the five hour drive, and will book Choti Haveli for last night in India.
We rose early in the desert for sunrise photos, (easy when the 4.5 hour time difference from home is taken into account) wandered the nearby area, practiced cow whispering, spotted some lovely birds and startled a few peacocks. Breakfast was simple and delicious, cracked wheat porridge with banana slices and pomegranate seeds plus paratha and lots of chai. We had time to chat with Gemar a dedicated environmentalist, knowledgeable about his hood. Sad to say farewell, I would like to spend more time here.
Ajmer is only 13 kilometres from the more oft visited Pushkar. The journey here took the best part of six hours. First we stopped for minor car repairs, where the all male clientele stared unrelentingly at me...they have no shame, even when you stare right back at em. The drive is a bit boring, through endless flat scrubby farming land. We stopped for a late lunch in Nagaur, delicious veg seekh kebab, dal fry and veg fried rice with naan, plus cold beer.
Our hotel in Ajmer is Badnor House a heritage property with only five rooms. Greeted by an ancient gatekeeper and an unsmiling 20 something, we’re shown to a comfortable room with a giant bed, a modern bathroom and a lovely terrace set in pretty gardens. I went to find reception with passports in hand, was handed a phone by surly 20 something. I spoke with the owner who was away, he apologised for not being here, relayed messages to the surly 20 something (named Paroo) who spoke no English. The owner Sanjay on a poor connection suggested various options for dinner nearby and mentioned he ran walking tours of the city....we were the only guests. R offered to take us out for dinner, but we were too knackered to consider going out, had snacks brought from home in the room.
Tomorrow we will visit Pushkar, deftly avoid a common scam and enjoy “special apple juice” (beer) at a rooftop restaurant in this alcohol free town.
Last edited by sartoric; Nov 14th, 2018 at 05:35 PM.
Nov 17th, 2018 | 08:47 AM
#68
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,488
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The day didn’t start well, despite that gorgeous modern bathroom, there’s no hot water ! Sheesh, after phone calls and text messages with the owner, we yet again end up with a bucket. Sigh.
Pushkar is gearing up for the annual camel fair which attracts over 400,000 people and starts in a few days time. It is also the home of one of the few Hindu temples dedicated to Brahma, and is an important pilgrimage site. Even though it’s only 13 km between the cities, it takes about 40 minutes to wind up and then down the Aravalli mountain range which lies between and is a feature of both cities. Driver R dropped us off near the mela (fair grounds) and pointed us in the direction of the Brahma temple with strict instructions not to buy any flowers for offerings. There are masses of people and colourful market stalls in the laneways leading to the temple, plus the usual motorbike, tractor, cow obstacles to dodge. We didn’t buy any flowers, a nice man gave us some !
After leaving shoes and locking the camera in a box, we joined an absolute crush of people to ascend the stairs to the temple. I really didn’t need my feet on the ground, and loved the way older ladies would just grab me by both arms and push me forward. I copped a slap in the face, probably not intentional, and gave my flowers to the priest, eager to escape. There is nothing architecturally interesting about this temple.
Whew, but it was not over yet...a “student” insisted on accompanying us to the ghats (no cost, no cost) where we recited a puja (prayer), received a blessing for our families from a man in white, then were asked to promise funding a meal for the poor. No promises were made, luckily, as these meals started at 2000 rupees. I gave them 100 rupees and we found our own way out of the mess.
We met up with driver R, and he delivered us to the other side of the lake to the market/bazaar. Here we were invited by young women carrying a probably drugged child to buy milk powder, a scam we first saw in Siem Reap many years ago. Sheesh.
Eventually we wound up (four floors up) at Nirvana, a cafe where the food was very good and the beer came in ceramic mugs, noted as apple juice on the bill. We enjoyed the view of the lake and ordered far too much food, but ate it all. We shared a thali consisting of cumin rice, dal, vegetable bhuji, chapatis and raita, plus separate dishes of spinach paneer, potato masala and garlic naan. Loads of western tourists in Pushkar, a stark contrast to Ajmer where we saw none. Back in Ajmer by late afternoon we wandered the area of Badnor house where some lovely examples of stately homes lay in varying conditions. We finally got to meet Sanjay the owner, whose grandfather was the equivalent of a baron in 1940s Ajmer. Indeed there were stunning life sized oil paintings of both his grandfather and great grandfather in the drawing room.
Against our better judgement we went to a nearby restaurant for dinner and had two amazing thali while seated in a cushioned alcove scattered with rose petals. It’s Ambrosia restaurant above the Ambassador hotel. No alcohol available, delicious food and cheap as chips.
Stuffed to the gills, the one kilometre walk home did us good and we crashed like kittens.
Tomorrow we take an early morning sightseeing/street food tour of Ajmer with Sanjay and have lunch in a bedroom enroute to Bundi !
Pushkar is gearing up for the annual camel fair which attracts over 400,000 people and starts in a few days time. It is also the home of one of the few Hindu temples dedicated to Brahma, and is an important pilgrimage site. Even though it’s only 13 km between the cities, it takes about 40 minutes to wind up and then down the Aravalli mountain range which lies between and is a feature of both cities. Driver R dropped us off near the mela (fair grounds) and pointed us in the direction of the Brahma temple with strict instructions not to buy any flowers for offerings. There are masses of people and colourful market stalls in the laneways leading to the temple, plus the usual motorbike, tractor, cow obstacles to dodge. We didn’t buy any flowers, a nice man gave us some !
After leaving shoes and locking the camera in a box, we joined an absolute crush of people to ascend the stairs to the temple. I really didn’t need my feet on the ground, and loved the way older ladies would just grab me by both arms and push me forward. I copped a slap in the face, probably not intentional, and gave my flowers to the priest, eager to escape. There is nothing architecturally interesting about this temple.
Whew, but it was not over yet...a “student” insisted on accompanying us to the ghats (no cost, no cost) where we recited a puja (prayer), received a blessing for our families from a man in white, then were asked to promise funding a meal for the poor. No promises were made, luckily, as these meals started at 2000 rupees. I gave them 100 rupees and we found our own way out of the mess.
We met up with driver R, and he delivered us to the other side of the lake to the market/bazaar. Here we were invited by young women carrying a probably drugged child to buy milk powder, a scam we first saw in Siem Reap many years ago. Sheesh.
Eventually we wound up (four floors up) at Nirvana, a cafe where the food was very good and the beer came in ceramic mugs, noted as apple juice on the bill. We enjoyed the view of the lake and ordered far too much food, but ate it all. We shared a thali consisting of cumin rice, dal, vegetable bhuji, chapatis and raita, plus separate dishes of spinach paneer, potato masala and garlic naan. Loads of western tourists in Pushkar, a stark contrast to Ajmer where we saw none. Back in Ajmer by late afternoon we wandered the area of Badnor house where some lovely examples of stately homes lay in varying conditions. We finally got to meet Sanjay the owner, whose grandfather was the equivalent of a baron in 1940s Ajmer. Indeed there were stunning life sized oil paintings of both his grandfather and great grandfather in the drawing room.
Against our better judgement we went to a nearby restaurant for dinner and had two amazing thali while seated in a cushioned alcove scattered with rose petals. It’s Ambrosia restaurant above the Ambassador hotel. No alcohol available, delicious food and cheap as chips.
Stuffed to the gills, the one kilometre walk home did us good and we crashed like kittens.
Tomorrow we take an early morning sightseeing/street food tour of Ajmer with Sanjay and have lunch in a bedroom enroute to Bundi !
Nov 17th, 2018 | 12:31 PM
#71
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Sartoric - wonderful report...youve returned to my favorite country. Love your pictures and descriptions. You are braver than me going into the Rat Temple. Ewww...
Calinurse - still laughing at your Mickey Mouse experience, especially as I recall the rats scurrying around hundreds of people sleeping outside a train station covered from head to toe with blankets. We couldnt understand the need for the blankets until we saw rats scourying around. I couldnt get on the train fast enough and worried the entire trip whether any rats hitched a ride along with us.
Calinurse - still laughing at your Mickey Mouse experience, especially as I recall the rats scurrying around hundreds of people sleeping outside a train station covered from head to toe with blankets. We couldnt understand the need for the blankets until we saw rats scourying around. I couldnt get on the train fast enough and worried the entire trip whether any rats hitched a ride along with us.
Nov 19th, 2018 | 08:23 AM
#74
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,488
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Thursdayd, think I might have another no go place for you coming up soon.
Thanks Dgunbug and Marisa, and MsLizzy, go back, it gets better each visit.
Running hot water and a workable shower at last, yay !
Off we go at 8am in an electric tuk tuk for our tour with Sanjay @ 750 rupees per person. We started at the Circuit House an imposing mansion (no public access) overlooking Anasagar lake, which is man made but nevertheless beautiful. In past times the tax collector stayed here, nowadays it is a base for visiting dignitaries. Sanjay said it’s crumbling inside. The view though is wondrous, and was good to see so many people out exercising.
From here we head through manic traffic to the start of the lanes leading to Sharif Dargah a Sufi saints tomb, said to be the most important Sufi shrine on the subcontinent. First we’re asked if we’re okay with crowds...oh oh. Wiki says 125,000 people a day visit this tomb. We got there relatively early, maybe only 15,000 others were present. The road leading to it (largely pedestrianised, but watch out for motorcycles) is crammed with all manner of shops, every shop has a hotel above it, and poor little donkeys grown under huge loads up and down side alleys. The tomb has intricate carvings reminiscent of Humayuns tomb in New Delhi. What could be a pretty garden area is instead pretty barren. Sanjay hired a tricycle rickshaw to take us back downhill to the tuk tuk...guess who got the tiny wooden jump seat directly behind the driver ?
On to Ram Namkeen (established 1963) for street food snacks. First up spinach pakora, then kachori (a type of dough ball filled with lentils, crushed a bit and topped with tamarind chutney), then twisted ribbons of fried dough with a spicy coriander chutney, and finally, freshly cooked jalebi (I had one for you @ileen).
We stopped near the museum, closed on Monday, for lassi with saffron, yum.
Next up is the beautiful red sandstone Jain temple, open only to Jains, however for 10 rupees you can visit the museum which houses a golden universe/city model and explains the Jain philosophy. The tour was great, Sanjay offered lots of insights into the past and present Ajmer. Well worth the money.
Back to Badnor House, no breakfast required, we packed up, paid the bill (no credit cards accepted, grrr, luckily I had some Aussie dollars), and hit the road for Bundi.
The drive is not so long today, but through pretty boring countryside. We pull up at a typical lunch spot with lots of trucks parked outside. By now R knows we enjoy a beer with lunch, so goes off to ask if beer is available while we plonk down at an outside table. The restaurant is not licensed, but they will get beer for us as long as we go inside. Not only inside, but down two flights of stairs to a windowless room containing two beds and a shelf full of backpacks. We think it’s the staff room. They pull out and dust off a plastic table and two chairs. We order, beer arrives, food arrives, our waiter climbs into bed and has a nap ! Again, the food was delicious, although not quite what we ordered. I guess the chickpeas got lost in translation, we giggled a lot about the bedroom lunch.
Bundi is a small town with a huge palace and fort. Hotel Bundi Haveli upgrade us to a suite...woo hoo, a huge room about 7 meters by 7 meters with two comfy bay window seats looking up to the towering fort/palace complex. The shower works too ! We wander the town in the late afternoon sun, stop for a few photos of the lake (unfortunately filled with plastic rubbish) and enjoy chatting with some other tourists. Dinner is at Lakeview restaurant across the road from our hotel. Run by a nice young couple, the food takes a while (cooked fresh) and we peek in to the basic kitchen. It’s all very tasty, and we don’t have to hide the beer !
Tomorrow we will brave the monkey thugs on the way to Taragarh fort.
Thanks Dgunbug and Marisa, and MsLizzy, go back, it gets better each visit.
Running hot water and a workable shower at last, yay !
Off we go at 8am in an electric tuk tuk for our tour with Sanjay @ 750 rupees per person. We started at the Circuit House an imposing mansion (no public access) overlooking Anasagar lake, which is man made but nevertheless beautiful. In past times the tax collector stayed here, nowadays it is a base for visiting dignitaries. Sanjay said it’s crumbling inside. The view though is wondrous, and was good to see so many people out exercising.
From here we head through manic traffic to the start of the lanes leading to Sharif Dargah a Sufi saints tomb, said to be the most important Sufi shrine on the subcontinent. First we’re asked if we’re okay with crowds...oh oh. Wiki says 125,000 people a day visit this tomb. We got there relatively early, maybe only 15,000 others were present. The road leading to it (largely pedestrianised, but watch out for motorcycles) is crammed with all manner of shops, every shop has a hotel above it, and poor little donkeys grown under huge loads up and down side alleys. The tomb has intricate carvings reminiscent of Humayuns tomb in New Delhi. What could be a pretty garden area is instead pretty barren. Sanjay hired a tricycle rickshaw to take us back downhill to the tuk tuk...guess who got the tiny wooden jump seat directly behind the driver ?
On to Ram Namkeen (established 1963) for street food snacks. First up spinach pakora, then kachori (a type of dough ball filled with lentils, crushed a bit and topped with tamarind chutney), then twisted ribbons of fried dough with a spicy coriander chutney, and finally, freshly cooked jalebi (I had one for you @ileen).
We stopped near the museum, closed on Monday, for lassi with saffron, yum.
Next up is the beautiful red sandstone Jain temple, open only to Jains, however for 10 rupees you can visit the museum which houses a golden universe/city model and explains the Jain philosophy. The tour was great, Sanjay offered lots of insights into the past and present Ajmer. Well worth the money.
Back to Badnor House, no breakfast required, we packed up, paid the bill (no credit cards accepted, grrr, luckily I had some Aussie dollars), and hit the road for Bundi.
The drive is not so long today, but through pretty boring countryside. We pull up at a typical lunch spot with lots of trucks parked outside. By now R knows we enjoy a beer with lunch, so goes off to ask if beer is available while we plonk down at an outside table. The restaurant is not licensed, but they will get beer for us as long as we go inside. Not only inside, but down two flights of stairs to a windowless room containing two beds and a shelf full of backpacks. We think it’s the staff room. They pull out and dust off a plastic table and two chairs. We order, beer arrives, food arrives, our waiter climbs into bed and has a nap ! Again, the food was delicious, although not quite what we ordered. I guess the chickpeas got lost in translation, we giggled a lot about the bedroom lunch.
Bundi is a small town with a huge palace and fort. Hotel Bundi Haveli upgrade us to a suite...woo hoo, a huge room about 7 meters by 7 meters with two comfy bay window seats looking up to the towering fort/palace complex. The shower works too ! We wander the town in the late afternoon sun, stop for a few photos of the lake (unfortunately filled with plastic rubbish) and enjoy chatting with some other tourists. Dinner is at Lakeview restaurant across the road from our hotel. Run by a nice young couple, the food takes a while (cooked fresh) and we peek in to the basic kitchen. It’s all very tasty, and we don’t have to hide the beer !
Tomorrow we will brave the monkey thugs on the way to Taragarh fort.
Nov 19th, 2018 | 07:58 PM
#76
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
Hi Sartoric! Still "with you" in spirit, enjoying your words and photos and in some cases, thinking "Better she than me."
Oh dear, I hope the next "no go" zone wasnt Amritsar! (I know the report trails behind the posted itinerary.) If you havent yet seen it, there's a recent Fodors post on the city.
Since your trip to Patiala is imminent, try to read up on the famous Maharajah of the area. Here's one perhaps exaggerated description https://www.scoopwhoop.com/Bhupinder...ja/#.riw17dd1z
Oh dear, I hope the next "no go" zone wasnt Amritsar! (I know the report trails behind the posted itinerary.) If you havent yet seen it, there's a recent Fodors post on the city.
Since your trip to Patiala is imminent, try to read up on the famous Maharajah of the area. Here's one perhaps exaggerated description https://www.scoopwhoop.com/Bhupinder...ja/#.riw17dd1z
Nov 19th, 2018 | 08:29 PM
#77
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 4,571
Likes: 0
A slight digression from your trip report, Sartoric--hoping you don't mind. Dgunbug, so good to "see"you again! I'd just been thinking of you, after re-reading your South India report. It 's part of the preparation for my trip there in less than two months, taking note of the village and temple just outside Madurai which you recommended: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thirup...Murugan_temple
Nov 20th, 2018 | 04:41 AM
#78
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,767
Likes: 0
Sartoric - waiting for more! This is all such good stuff and the pictures are great. Loved your incident in the cellar with the waiter sleeping on his bed...just priceless.<br /><br />Calinurse - Ive been away from the Asian forum for a bit as weve been back to Europe during the last few years. Time to return though. Hope my report helps you. Hated to be so negative about the Kerala area but the rest was outstanding.
Nov 20th, 2018 | 08:11 AM
#79
Original Poster
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 1,488
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CaliNurse, yes it was Amritsar, glad we went, but wouldn’t go back in a hurry. Tomorrow will be in Patiala (real time, not TR time - I’m several days behind, drama at home eating into my free time) so thanks for the link of debauched Maharajah. I read the Lax_esq report in Delhi airport before our flight to Amritsar, got excited. He’s right in that the area around the Golden Temple is pristine, step outside though....
dgunbug, thanks, the waiter did eventually put down his phone, cover his head with blankets and even started snoring. Priceless, yes.
Ahh Bundi, a compact and colourful town, home to 90,000 people, surrounded by mountains and grounded by Nawal Sagar a square man made lake. There’s more free ranging piggies here than I’ve ever seen, plus the usual cows, dogs, a few cats and some lovely parrots. I admire the way all these different species peacefully coexist. The Bundi Palace and Taragarh fort (14th century) tower over the town and are largely unrestored. Admission to both is 500 rupees pp. The palace is a jumble of rooms, some with exquisite paintings, some derelict and damaged by vandals. A couple of young men will unlock doors to the best preserved rooms and elsewhere show you roosting bats through a gap in the top of a door. The climb to the fort is via a loose stone pathway, where the local monkeys watch you from the trees. A guide coming the other way screamed at us to beware, suggested we carry a big stick, avoid eye contact and that M should lead the way. Stick found, we forged ahead, looking strictly at our feet...the monkeys were no problem. I was more concerned about slipping on the at times steep slope. The views from the top were spectacular and well worth the climb.
Back in town by around lunchtime we stumbled across Nas Diwas, a luxury haveli and enjoyed snacks of vegetable fritters, a beer, the view of the fort and their colourful wall art. Wandering is fun in Bundi, many homes are painted blue, laneways twist and turn into narrow corridors, and there’s always an opening to orient yourself to the mountains, so no fear of getting lost. Later we would meet up with Ramesh, carefully stroll the markets (motorcycles galore), buy a bottle of Sula (Indian) sauvignon blanc and enjoy street food of freshly cooked pakoras doused in a spicy coriander chutney.
Dinner was at a restaurant recommended by R, main street, on the lake, can’t remember name. We had a great meal of mixed vegetable bhuji, tadka dal, paneer masala and naan bread, plus we drank some of that wine.
Tomorrow we return to the Pink City - Jaipur, and some big city chaos.
dgunbug, thanks, the waiter did eventually put down his phone, cover his head with blankets and even started snoring. Priceless, yes.
Ahh Bundi, a compact and colourful town, home to 90,000 people, surrounded by mountains and grounded by Nawal Sagar a square man made lake. There’s more free ranging piggies here than I’ve ever seen, plus the usual cows, dogs, a few cats and some lovely parrots. I admire the way all these different species peacefully coexist. The Bundi Palace and Taragarh fort (14th century) tower over the town and are largely unrestored. Admission to both is 500 rupees pp. The palace is a jumble of rooms, some with exquisite paintings, some derelict and damaged by vandals. A couple of young men will unlock doors to the best preserved rooms and elsewhere show you roosting bats through a gap in the top of a door. The climb to the fort is via a loose stone pathway, where the local monkeys watch you from the trees. A guide coming the other way screamed at us to beware, suggested we carry a big stick, avoid eye contact and that M should lead the way. Stick found, we forged ahead, looking strictly at our feet...the monkeys were no problem. I was more concerned about slipping on the at times steep slope. The views from the top were spectacular and well worth the climb.
Back in town by around lunchtime we stumbled across Nas Diwas, a luxury haveli and enjoyed snacks of vegetable fritters, a beer, the view of the fort and their colourful wall art. Wandering is fun in Bundi, many homes are painted blue, laneways twist and turn into narrow corridors, and there’s always an opening to orient yourself to the mountains, so no fear of getting lost. Later we would meet up with Ramesh, carefully stroll the markets (motorcycles galore), buy a bottle of Sula (Indian) sauvignon blanc and enjoy street food of freshly cooked pakoras doused in a spicy coriander chutney.
Dinner was at a restaurant recommended by R, main street, on the lake, can’t remember name. We had a great meal of mixed vegetable bhuji, tadka dal, paneer masala and naan bread, plus we drank some of that wine.
Tomorrow we return to the Pink City - Jaipur, and some big city chaos.
