On the road again - to Incredible India.
Jan 19th, 2017, 03:03 AM
#41
Sounds like you are having a wonderful trip! And thank you for sharing as you travel - it's thrilling!
I'm enjoying the detail as well -- especially since I hope to be traveling in many of the same places! So enjoying this!
I'm enjoying the detail as well -- especially since I hope to be traveling in many of the same places! So enjoying this!
Jan 19th, 2017, 09:43 PM
#42
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CaliforniaLady, since this is Sartoric's trip report, I'll post an answer to your question on your planning thread, hoping to keep things organized. I hope that makes sense.
I've never met or used Siva, but I'm sure enjoying the stories about him! Having had other wonderful drivers booked with IP, I can imagine how lovely and helpful he is.
Sartoric, my daughter also celebrated a special birthday on the Kerala backwaters and it was one of her happiest and most memorable in 30 yrs! I hope and trust your husband will feel the same on his special day. And yes, keep those details coming for your fan club here!!
I've never met or used Siva, but I'm sure enjoying the stories about him! Having had other wonderful drivers booked with IP, I can imagine how lovely and helpful he is.
Sartoric, my daughter also celebrated a special birthday on the Kerala backwaters and it was one of her happiest and most memorable in 30 yrs! I hope and trust your husband will feel the same on his special day. And yes, keep those details coming for your fan club here!!
Jan 20th, 2017, 01:56 AM
#44
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CL, I had a framework of where to go (largely gathered from reports here), Tim helped me refine it, suggesting for example that it was not necessary to stay at both Tanjore and Trichy as they are about an hours drive apart. He also helped with my decision to cut Goa this trip (we live near beautiful beaches) and persuaded me to investigate alternatives to Mumbai. I came up with Varanasi, he endorsed it, I guess I'll never know whether that was the right decision.
As for winging it, Siva has made suggestions based on our interests, perhaps you could call it half fly. He certainly knows of a lot of alternatives.
CaliNurse, great to know your daughter enjoyed her birthday time in Kerala, we're looking forward to that part, well, everything really.
A day in and around Kumbakonam. Wednesday January 18.
About 30 kilometres north of town is another chola dynasty temple, Brihadeesvarar. It is huge and almost deserted. On the way we crossed three long single lane bridges over a flood plain. The middle bridge had a sign "Go slow, weak bridge" yep, more incredible India. This temple was built by the son of Rajendra Chola, yesterday's temple was built by the grandson. Apparently we could tip a priest to let us walk up the internal stairs to the top, about seven stories I'd guess. I have difficulty with walking down stairs (some weird spatial thing) so passed.
Next up, the Sri Sarangapani Swami temple in downtown Kumbakonam, a living temple with a few indian people going about their devotions. One father made both his young children shake hands with us, weird, and the little girl, I'd guess about three was not too pleased about it. Well she was okay with me, but wouldn't go near DH.
We wandered the surrounding streets, breathing in the chaos that is such a way of life here. Crazy traffic, extreme noise pollution, but always friendly smiley people.
Back to the Paradise Resort for a tour of the brass foundry, which is situated just behind the hotel and still uses the same techniques from 1400 years ago. It's tiny, housed in a mud brick hut, has eight employees and was so very interesting to hear about the method and see the guys sculpting, sanding and making the models. They fire at night when the wind is calmer, using ovens dug into the earth. The clay and sand for the moulds comes from the nearby river. A man called Mr Ganesh took us to the foundry and also wandered with us down to the river where lies the Riverview Resort. It's a part of Paradise Resort, with a restaurant currently under construction. We had a look in one of the rooms. It was spacious with a teak four poster bed and sitting area, plus a large bathroom with rain shower and bidet. The Italian style we were told, ha ha.
Later we self walked through the village behind the resort. Again we were accosted by friendly children, waved to by old men and women, and smiled at by the rest. More painted cows got captured on camera.
Siva called for us at 16.00. We visited three more temples, (temple blur starting now!) we then shared coffee with him at Just Coffee opposite the Maha Magha tank (huge step well) and he dropped us at Ramraj an Indian cotton/linen menswear shop. We didn't buy anything, but the quality of their offerings was very good.
Back to Paradise Resort for another excellent dinner. The food here is very good, our favourite waiter brought us extra snacks to try, including a vermicelli coated fritter type thingy. It sometimes pays to butter up the waiter.
I forgot to mention that yesterday on arrival we were treated to a complimentary Ayurvedic foot massage. It was very good and the masseur imparted his wisdom about many things.
There are a lot more people staying at the resort tonight, including a group on a cycling tour. I thought of Julies report on her time in Kerala, geez they looked knackered, and I wouldn't want to chance riding the main road to Tanjore. Loads of crazy drivers, with busses the worst.
As for winging it, Siva has made suggestions based on our interests, perhaps you could call it half fly. He certainly knows of a lot of alternatives.
CaliNurse, great to know your daughter enjoyed her birthday time in Kerala, we're looking forward to that part, well, everything really.
A day in and around Kumbakonam. Wednesday January 18.
About 30 kilometres north of town is another chola dynasty temple, Brihadeesvarar. It is huge and almost deserted. On the way we crossed three long single lane bridges over a flood plain. The middle bridge had a sign "Go slow, weak bridge" yep, more incredible India. This temple was built by the son of Rajendra Chola, yesterday's temple was built by the grandson. Apparently we could tip a priest to let us walk up the internal stairs to the top, about seven stories I'd guess. I have difficulty with walking down stairs (some weird spatial thing) so passed.
Next up, the Sri Sarangapani Swami temple in downtown Kumbakonam, a living temple with a few indian people going about their devotions. One father made both his young children shake hands with us, weird, and the little girl, I'd guess about three was not too pleased about it. Well she was okay with me, but wouldn't go near DH.
We wandered the surrounding streets, breathing in the chaos that is such a way of life here. Crazy traffic, extreme noise pollution, but always friendly smiley people.
Back to the Paradise Resort for a tour of the brass foundry, which is situated just behind the hotel and still uses the same techniques from 1400 years ago. It's tiny, housed in a mud brick hut, has eight employees and was so very interesting to hear about the method and see the guys sculpting, sanding and making the models. They fire at night when the wind is calmer, using ovens dug into the earth. The clay and sand for the moulds comes from the nearby river. A man called Mr Ganesh took us to the foundry and also wandered with us down to the river where lies the Riverview Resort. It's a part of Paradise Resort, with a restaurant currently under construction. We had a look in one of the rooms. It was spacious with a teak four poster bed and sitting area, plus a large bathroom with rain shower and bidet. The Italian style we were told, ha ha.
Later we self walked through the village behind the resort. Again we were accosted by friendly children, waved to by old men and women, and smiled at by the rest. More painted cows got captured on camera.
Siva called for us at 16.00. We visited three more temples, (temple blur starting now!) we then shared coffee with him at Just Coffee opposite the Maha Magha tank (huge step well) and he dropped us at Ramraj an Indian cotton/linen menswear shop. We didn't buy anything, but the quality of their offerings was very good.
Back to Paradise Resort for another excellent dinner. The food here is very good, our favourite waiter brought us extra snacks to try, including a vermicelli coated fritter type thingy. It sometimes pays to butter up the waiter.
I forgot to mention that yesterday on arrival we were treated to a complimentary Ayurvedic foot massage. It was very good and the masseur imparted his wisdom about many things.
There are a lot more people staying at the resort tonight, including a group on a cycling tour. I thought of Julies report on her time in Kerala, geez they looked knackered, and I wouldn't want to chance riding the main road to Tanjore. Loads of crazy drivers, with busses the worst.
Jan 20th, 2017, 03:28 AM
#45
Once again, your posts are just wonderful to read! So loving reading every detail! And of course, imagining the children coming running out to greet you and feeling their excitement! I love that you visited the brass foundry, too! All of it sounds wonderful!
Thanks again for writing up your travels on the go!
Thanks again for writing up your travels on the go!
Jan 20th, 2017, 11:41 AM
#46
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Love your observations, Sartoric. Chaos as a way of life, indeed!
It seems from your descriptions, youhave great contrasts in your trip itinerary-- some relatively peaceful; some noisy/chaotic. All colorful, all "incredible India." Look forward to your take on Tanjore, and the hotel there, which in photos looks quite quirky!
Continued "Happy Trails"!
It seems from your descriptions, youhave great contrasts in your trip itinerary-- some relatively peaceful; some noisy/chaotic. All colorful, all "incredible India." Look forward to your take on Tanjore, and the hotel there, which in photos looks quite quirky!
Continued "Happy Trails"!
Jan 20th, 2017, 02:44 PM
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Loving your report and hearing about places I've been to as well as those I've missed. Always makes me want to return. As much as we enjoyed Mumbai, I do not think you will regret your decision to visit Varanasi, which for us was the highlight of our first visit to India. Excited to hear your thoughts on Tanjore and Trichy - both highlights of our second trip. Wishing you and your husband a magical birthday celebration and a magical journey through incredible India!
Jan 21st, 2017, 04:57 AM
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Thanks to all for your replies and well wishes.
CaliNurse, here's another one for your no fly list.
Kumbakonam to Tanjore, Thursday January 19.
Siva picked us up at 10.00 today, so we had a bit of a sleep in. Breakfast was again delicious and varied. It was buffet style given there were lots of guests. Pooris, vada, idly, chutney of many kinds, sambar, bhaji, many other things, I could go on.
We visited three more temples on the way to Tanjore - most don't allow photos in the inner sanctum, so the different styles of carvings and columns have to be committed to memory, (which is quickly amalgamating them into one). Damn that brain.
Arriving in Tanjore, Siva sets us loose on the bazaar, where we wander the narrow lanes checking out spices, cooking vessels, fresh produce and a myriad other stalls. Tanjore is dusty, very very dusty. Tamil Nadu had a poor rainy season last year, so water, or rather the lack of, is a big issue. Indeed all the rivers we crossed were virtually dry.
No one should expect a glitch free time in India, we got a few today.
The Tanjore Hi hotel was recommended as a funky boutique style hotel. It is housed in a 1920's building with, polished concrete floors painted royal blue, funky art, (think mural sized temples with modern advertising slogans imposed across) a decent sized room and bathroom with modern fixtures. It also has a soulless rooftop restaurant and dusty terrace, where you can sit on hard wonky chairs and listen to the cacophony rising from the street below. Check in was chaotic as a wrangler from Indian panorama appeared to quiz me on how things were going, while reception wanted the usual forms filled. There's no TV in the room, (according to their blurb, freeing us from the constant reporting of disaster and poor sitcom shows) which is okay with us. The room is dark with little natural light, and only one chair. The fully stocked mini bar contains only air. We had a light (so so) lunch and a beer on the dusty terrace.
At 16.00 we met with a guide named Raja who took us to the Tanjore Palace and on to the big temple Brihadiswarar. The Palace museum and library held many bronzes dating from the ninth century, and manuscripts in various languages from the 18th century. It was all a bit cheesy at the Palace, as we toured it with about 600 brown uniformed primary school kids. Again, random strangers wanted my photo. Even I don't like most photos of me, so I don't get this, but am happy to oblige. The temple however, was fantastic and Raja helped put a lot of things into context for me. He's had 40 years experience guiding in Tanjore and was really informative. The main temple dates from the 9th century with additions from the 16th and 18th, its huge, and crowded, but magnificent. This is a temple where non Hindus are allowed into the inner sanctum. So we lined up with the thousand others, got a smear of powder and a look at the deity.
We we're dismayed when returning to Tanjore Hi at 18.30 to find the partial remains of our lunch on the same table on dusty terrace. At 19.00 Siva picked us up to take us to another hotel for dinner (incidentally one I had put a booking.com footprint on). I had a small whinge to Siva about our hotel on the way, the water on the floor in the bathroom, the non working wifi, the filthy terrace, the difficulty finding a staff member to order from, yada yada...
Dinner at hotel Gnanam was pretty good. The goat rogan josh was spicy, a pea and cauliflower khurma, cheese naan and rice all very tasty. Surprise, surprise when we got back to Tanjore Hi someone had cleaned up the terrace, the bathroom was fixed, and they offered to hotspot some wifi for me. Glitch partially averted, (undoubtedly given a right royal rev up by Siva) but now we find out that the whole state of Tamil Nadu is going on strike tomorrow. Everything will be closed.
There's an ongoing dispute with PETA over jallikattu, the traditional bull taming event which is part of Pongal. They animals aren't physically damaged, (although perhaps psychologically) the game is for young men to attempt to subdue the bull by hanging on to the hump. It happens only once a year on the third day of the Pongal festival. The bulls that are subdued become working bulls (pulling carts etc), those that can't be subdued are considered worthy of breeding from. The people of Tamil Nadu are concerned that the ban on jallikattu will see the breed disappear. I'd like to see PETA spend their efforts shutting down bullfighting in Spain where it's clearly torturous for the animal, and the bull never wins. Although I haven't seen jallikattu (because it's currently banned) it sounds much less harmful.
We first started seeing the protests two days ago in Kumbakonam, it's now sort of escalated. There's a Supreme Court challenge over the banning of jallikattu, however the court has been slow to make a decision. I feel that there's a bit more to it. The people of Tamil Nadu state seem to feel neglected by the central government, Siva thinks it's a language issue, but surely not at that level. There's a problem with not enough water in TN state, the central government has been slow to approve and build a dam in nearby Karnataka state which would alleviate the problem. It's awful to see the dried up river beds only 2 months after the rainy season.
Siva will call us in the morning to advise whether our plans need to change due to the strike.
CaliNurse, here's another one for your no fly list.
Kumbakonam to Tanjore, Thursday January 19.
Siva picked us up at 10.00 today, so we had a bit of a sleep in. Breakfast was again delicious and varied. It was buffet style given there were lots of guests. Pooris, vada, idly, chutney of many kinds, sambar, bhaji, many other things, I could go on.
We visited three more temples on the way to Tanjore - most don't allow photos in the inner sanctum, so the different styles of carvings and columns have to be committed to memory, (which is quickly amalgamating them into one). Damn that brain.
Arriving in Tanjore, Siva sets us loose on the bazaar, where we wander the narrow lanes checking out spices, cooking vessels, fresh produce and a myriad other stalls. Tanjore is dusty, very very dusty. Tamil Nadu had a poor rainy season last year, so water, or rather the lack of, is a big issue. Indeed all the rivers we crossed were virtually dry.
No one should expect a glitch free time in India, we got a few today.
The Tanjore Hi hotel was recommended as a funky boutique style hotel. It is housed in a 1920's building with, polished concrete floors painted royal blue, funky art, (think mural sized temples with modern advertising slogans imposed across) a decent sized room and bathroom with modern fixtures. It also has a soulless rooftop restaurant and dusty terrace, where you can sit on hard wonky chairs and listen to the cacophony rising from the street below. Check in was chaotic as a wrangler from Indian panorama appeared to quiz me on how things were going, while reception wanted the usual forms filled. There's no TV in the room, (according to their blurb, freeing us from the constant reporting of disaster and poor sitcom shows) which is okay with us. The room is dark with little natural light, and only one chair. The fully stocked mini bar contains only air. We had a light (so so) lunch and a beer on the dusty terrace.
At 16.00 we met with a guide named Raja who took us to the Tanjore Palace and on to the big temple Brihadiswarar. The Palace museum and library held many bronzes dating from the ninth century, and manuscripts in various languages from the 18th century. It was all a bit cheesy at the Palace, as we toured it with about 600 brown uniformed primary school kids. Again, random strangers wanted my photo. Even I don't like most photos of me, so I don't get this, but am happy to oblige. The temple however, was fantastic and Raja helped put a lot of things into context for me. He's had 40 years experience guiding in Tanjore and was really informative. The main temple dates from the 9th century with additions from the 16th and 18th, its huge, and crowded, but magnificent. This is a temple where non Hindus are allowed into the inner sanctum. So we lined up with the thousand others, got a smear of powder and a look at the deity.
We we're dismayed when returning to Tanjore Hi at 18.30 to find the partial remains of our lunch on the same table on dusty terrace. At 19.00 Siva picked us up to take us to another hotel for dinner (incidentally one I had put a booking.com footprint on). I had a small whinge to Siva about our hotel on the way, the water on the floor in the bathroom, the non working wifi, the filthy terrace, the difficulty finding a staff member to order from, yada yada...
Dinner at hotel Gnanam was pretty good. The goat rogan josh was spicy, a pea and cauliflower khurma, cheese naan and rice all very tasty. Surprise, surprise when we got back to Tanjore Hi someone had cleaned up the terrace, the bathroom was fixed, and they offered to hotspot some wifi for me. Glitch partially averted, (undoubtedly given a right royal rev up by Siva) but now we find out that the whole state of Tamil Nadu is going on strike tomorrow. Everything will be closed.
There's an ongoing dispute with PETA over jallikattu, the traditional bull taming event which is part of Pongal. They animals aren't physically damaged, (although perhaps psychologically) the game is for young men to attempt to subdue the bull by hanging on to the hump. It happens only once a year on the third day of the Pongal festival. The bulls that are subdued become working bulls (pulling carts etc), those that can't be subdued are considered worthy of breeding from. The people of Tamil Nadu are concerned that the ban on jallikattu will see the breed disappear. I'd like to see PETA spend their efforts shutting down bullfighting in Spain where it's clearly torturous for the animal, and the bull never wins. Although I haven't seen jallikattu (because it's currently banned) it sounds much less harmful.
We first started seeing the protests two days ago in Kumbakonam, it's now sort of escalated. There's a Supreme Court challenge over the banning of jallikattu, however the court has been slow to make a decision. I feel that there's a bit more to it. The people of Tamil Nadu state seem to feel neglected by the central government, Siva thinks it's a language issue, but surely not at that level. There's a problem with not enough water in TN state, the central government has been slow to approve and build a dam in nearby Karnataka state which would alleviate the problem. It's awful to see the dried up river beds only 2 months after the rainy season.
Siva will call us in the morning to advise whether our plans need to change due to the strike.
Jan 21st, 2017, 05:51 PM
#51
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Good morning, Sartoric. Any updates from Siva?
Sending hopeful vibes that it's"only" a brief strike!
Gosh, were the hotel staff yesterday in strike mode ? Thank heaven your driver advocated for you with them. You should whinge to/phone/contact (if not a hassle) the Indianpanorama guy who checked on you yesterday. That's one advantage of a travel agency--to offer help immediately, and prevent future hotel "no fly zones" for clients. Thanks for the warning!
In every trip I've had to India, there comes a moment or two when the "It's India" shrug wears really thin, and I vow to never return. Within a few hours, the usual personal interactions and/or fascinating sights happen, and it's back to planning the next trip! So--if it's another day of snafus--hang in there!
Re the empty mini-bar, were there possibly recent elections? During political campaigns, liquor is removed from said hotel mini-bars--something to do with limiting bribes. Siva might know about this (unless it just happens in the Punjab, where I experienced it.)
Hoping you day goes ok and that the hotel folks get their act together!! I've read that hotel was quirky, but it seems that is a euphemism!
Kathie, I'm smiling (sadly) at your tv comment. about January 20.
Sending hopeful vibes that it's"only" a brief strike!
Gosh, were the hotel staff yesterday in strike mode ? Thank heaven your driver advocated for you with them. You should whinge to/phone/contact (if not a hassle) the Indianpanorama guy who checked on you yesterday. That's one advantage of a travel agency--to offer help immediately, and prevent future hotel "no fly zones" for clients. Thanks for the warning!
In every trip I've had to India, there comes a moment or two when the "It's India" shrug wears really thin, and I vow to never return. Within a few hours, the usual personal interactions and/or fascinating sights happen, and it's back to planning the next trip! So--if it's another day of snafus--hang in there!
Re the empty mini-bar, were there possibly recent elections? During political campaigns, liquor is removed from said hotel mini-bars--something to do with limiting bribes. Siva might know about this (unless it just happens in the Punjab, where I experienced it.)
Hoping you day goes ok and that the hotel folks get their act together!! I've read that hotel was quirky, but it seems that is a euphemism!
Kathie, I'm smiling (sadly) at your tv comment. about January 20.
Jan 22nd, 2017, 02:40 AM
#52
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Dgunbug, we weren't affected, others were though.
Kathie, couldn't agree more, although there's always news on the internet. Siva asked us today why so many Amercian people voted for him. I couldn't really answer that.
CaliNurse, I totally get where you're coming from with the frustrations. The elections in Tamil Nadu were a month ago, surely enough time to restock a mini bar. The English couple we met were in Hampi (Karnataka state) just after elections, and despite all efforts couldn't get a beer for love nor money. He argued with the GM of their hotel that the polling booths had closed...Shrug, this is India.
Day trip to Trichy, Friday January 20.
It turned out that we didn't need to change our plans, but pretty much all shops are closed. We aren't shoppers, but do enjoy looking, its not possible today. We had coffee (weak with a slight flavour of dishwater) on the terrace, the table was cleaned again though. Our car now has an A4 sized photocopy of a poster taped inside the windscreen. It's a picture of a bull and the words "We support jallikattu".
Raja the guide came with us to Trichy where we visited the huge complex that is Sri Rangam temple. We started at the ghats where cremations take place, I learned that only married people are cremated, the unmarried are buried. We wandered through the area allocated to specific devotions, for example there was a mother, father and adult son getting special incantations to find a suitable marriage partner for the son. We watched as the large family of a deceased person arrived with donations of new clothing for the priests. Chaos ensued, with a crowd of maybe 40 people (both priests as recipients and family as givers) all exchanging newly bought shirts, lungyi and other fabric. The crowd were very friendly, made room for us to see the action, asked questions, and held up babies for photos . A painted elephant swayed quietly in the background.
It was a short drive to the main temple area, surrounded by Brahmin houses. The inner sanctum of this temple is all gold, no non Hindus allowed, bummer. The carvings are superb, the commentary that Raja provided invaluable. We shared snacks bought by Raja, black gram cakes and sesame sweets, both wrapped in newspaper. Another temple stop was at the Shiva water temple, which is unique in that as the legend goes, animals also aim to attain enlightenment. A parade started, lead by an elephant. I was pleased to see the mahout with a thin bamboo cane rather than a steel hook.
On to lunch at PLA Residence, a modern hotel where we had a veg thali with nine different dishes and aloo paratha. With a bottle of water the cost was INR 310, about $6. That included Rajas lunch too (he joined us), how cheap is that ? We drove around the rock temple, but didn't ascend the 452 steps to the top, (given my going down stairs issue) apparently there's nothing inside anyway.
Lots of protesters were staging sit ins along the way. All shops shuttered, no matter.
We got back to Tanjore Hi about 15.00 and made for the terrace where a young man with a rag raced to clean the table.... I'd asked Siva to make a reservation for dinner at Ideal River Resort about 6 kms out of town. He was to pick us up at 19.00. Later I noticed Siva sitting across the road and thought it would be good to go to IRR earlier and have a look around the grounds, so off we went about an hour earlier than planned. The resort is lovely, with beautiful grounds, staff that have clearly have had training in hospitality, a gift shop with gorgeous things (and a salesman with a sense of humour) plus a lovely restaurant. It is located on the river of course, but there's hardly any water.
Our meal was delicious, chicken biriyani, eggplant kaikeri, cucumber raita and vegetable samosas, enhanced by professional, friendly and helpful service.
Returning to Tanjore Hi we spoke with some other guests. I felt sorry for a French couple whose plans for the day had been cancelled by their tour company due to the protests. Also an English couple who were similarly unimpressed with Tanjore Hi. They had made the looong journey to visit Hampi and were shattered by the 10 plus hour drive. I thought of Djunbugs report, and then it started raining !
Kathie, couldn't agree more, although there's always news on the internet. Siva asked us today why so many Amercian people voted for him. I couldn't really answer that.
CaliNurse, I totally get where you're coming from with the frustrations. The elections in Tamil Nadu were a month ago, surely enough time to restock a mini bar. The English couple we met were in Hampi (Karnataka state) just after elections, and despite all efforts couldn't get a beer for love nor money. He argued with the GM of their hotel that the polling booths had closed...Shrug, this is India.
Day trip to Trichy, Friday January 20.
It turned out that we didn't need to change our plans, but pretty much all shops are closed. We aren't shoppers, but do enjoy looking, its not possible today. We had coffee (weak with a slight flavour of dishwater) on the terrace, the table was cleaned again though. Our car now has an A4 sized photocopy of a poster taped inside the windscreen. It's a picture of a bull and the words "We support jallikattu".
Raja the guide came with us to Trichy where we visited the huge complex that is Sri Rangam temple. We started at the ghats where cremations take place, I learned that only married people are cremated, the unmarried are buried. We wandered through the area allocated to specific devotions, for example there was a mother, father and adult son getting special incantations to find a suitable marriage partner for the son. We watched as the large family of a deceased person arrived with donations of new clothing for the priests. Chaos ensued, with a crowd of maybe 40 people (both priests as recipients and family as givers) all exchanging newly bought shirts, lungyi and other fabric. The crowd were very friendly, made room for us to see the action, asked questions, and held up babies for photos . A painted elephant swayed quietly in the background.
It was a short drive to the main temple area, surrounded by Brahmin houses. The inner sanctum of this temple is all gold, no non Hindus allowed, bummer. The carvings are superb, the commentary that Raja provided invaluable. We shared snacks bought by Raja, black gram cakes and sesame sweets, both wrapped in newspaper. Another temple stop was at the Shiva water temple, which is unique in that as the legend goes, animals also aim to attain enlightenment. A parade started, lead by an elephant. I was pleased to see the mahout with a thin bamboo cane rather than a steel hook.
On to lunch at PLA Residence, a modern hotel where we had a veg thali with nine different dishes and aloo paratha. With a bottle of water the cost was INR 310, about $6. That included Rajas lunch too (he joined us), how cheap is that ? We drove around the rock temple, but didn't ascend the 452 steps to the top, (given my going down stairs issue) apparently there's nothing inside anyway.
Lots of protesters were staging sit ins along the way. All shops shuttered, no matter.
We got back to Tanjore Hi about 15.00 and made for the terrace where a young man with a rag raced to clean the table.... I'd asked Siva to make a reservation for dinner at Ideal River Resort about 6 kms out of town. He was to pick us up at 19.00. Later I noticed Siva sitting across the road and thought it would be good to go to IRR earlier and have a look around the grounds, so off we went about an hour earlier than planned. The resort is lovely, with beautiful grounds, staff that have clearly have had training in hospitality, a gift shop with gorgeous things (and a salesman with a sense of humour) plus a lovely restaurant. It is located on the river of course, but there's hardly any water.
Our meal was delicious, chicken biriyani, eggplant kaikeri, cucumber raita and vegetable samosas, enhanced by professional, friendly and helpful service.
Returning to Tanjore Hi we spoke with some other guests. I felt sorry for a French couple whose plans for the day had been cancelled by their tour company due to the protests. Also an English couple who were similarly unimpressed with Tanjore Hi. They had made the looong journey to visit Hampi and were shattered by the 10 plus hour drive. I thought of Djunbugs report, and then it started raining !
Jan 22nd, 2017, 06:32 AM
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I don't regret having gone to Hampi, but the ride was quite long! Such good info your guide has provided. I was not aware either that unmarried people are buried. Great report. In enjoying following along on your journey.
Jan 22nd, 2017, 07:38 AM
#56
Really interesting report! I didn't know that about cremations either - wonder whether widow(er)s count as single or married? Divorced people?
Did not realize PETA was active in Asia. Wonder if they are also protesting the elephant rides at Amber fort...
I did not think Hampi was worth the trek. Of course, my trek included several other places and a bad driver as well.
If you have internet the NYT and WaPo have good coverage of the marches.
Did not realize PETA was active in Asia. Wonder if they are also protesting the elephant rides at Amber fort...
I did not think Hampi was worth the trek. Of course, my trek included several other places and a bad driver as well.
If you have internet the NYT and WaPo have good coverage of the marches.
Jan 23rd, 2017, 01:59 PM
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Wonderful report, sartoric! Loving your detailed observations and interactions. So glad you're enjoying the varied cuisine and trying the meat dishes as well.
Born and raised for half my life in India and now living in NYC, your report is making me so nostalgic for my other home. We leave in 3 days to visit family for 2 weeks and I can't get there soon enough.
PS: We have a Whatsapp group for all the 100+ women who were in my year in college (undergrad), and for the last couple of days have had a roaring debate re the Jallikattu protests. I seem to change my position with every new fact/argument presented (especially as a meat eater with no moral high ground). For now, I am of the opinion that this should not be banned, rather regulated more than it has been.
Enjoy the rest of your travels! Can't wait to read it when I am back.
Born and raised for half my life in India and now living in NYC, your report is making me so nostalgic for my other home. We leave in 3 days to visit family for 2 weeks and I can't get there soon enough.
PS: We have a Whatsapp group for all the 100+ women who were in my year in college (undergrad), and for the last couple of days have had a roaring debate re the Jallikattu protests. I seem to change my position with every new fact/argument presented (especially as a meat eater with no moral high ground). For now, I am of the opinion that this should not be banned, rather regulated more than it has been.
Enjoy the rest of your travels! Can't wait to read it when I am back.
Jan 23rd, 2017, 06:56 PM
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Thanks for your replies. Thursdaysd, widow/ers are definitely good for cremation, I'll check on divorcees, but expect they too would be good to burn.
Seemaskt, enjoy your trip ! Lucky you having family here and language ability.
I saw a lot about the women's march, apparently 10,000 marched in Sydney, and nearly 500 in my state capital (which is having a heatwave with 40 C temps).
Tanjore to Karaikudi in the Chettinad region. Saturday January 21.
The coffee was better this morning. Check out was again chaotic as the IP wrangler came to see how our time in Tanjore went, reception wanted me to complete a "how was your stay ?" form and of course I had to pay for the incidentals. DH snuck out the door, saying to me "be gentle". As I started on my short episode of war and peace, the card machine repeatedly failed. Enough said about Tanjore Hi.
We drove for just over an hour in light drizzle to a small village for a tea stop, then on to a family temple Anjayur where hundreds of terracotta animal statues (many broken) lined the entrance road. The rain continues to drizzle and the dirt is now mud. Barefoot and squelching through the red mud, we enjoyed this simple temple as the only visitors. The best bit was returning to the car, where a family was "fishing" in a long puddle. Small boys were scooping out handfuls of water, throwing them on to dryish ground and collecting the tiny fish and a few crabs. They will be dried and eaten. According to Siva they're very tasty and a part of his childhood.
On to Pudukottai village the site of Chidambaram Villas, a luxury hotel property originally built as a house for Raman Chettinar a hundred years ago. He was instrumental in building the wealth of the Chettinad region by trade with Burma and other countries.
We were taken for a tour of the mansion, which is spectacular with fittings from all over the world - Belgian glass chandeliers, Burmese teak carvings, Italian tiles and much grandeur. Lunch was amazing here, a traditional Chettinad meal served on a banana leaf. Oh my, so much food. We had at least eight kinds of veggies, rasa soup in a silver cup, a whole fish, chicken in gravy, three kinds of rice, chutneys, pickles, pappad, vada and a cold beer served in a silver tankard. It was a bit disconcerting to have two young waiters watch us (the only guests) eat. They stood less than a meter in front of us, and jeez they wanted us to eat, kept offering more. Later a sweet pudding with semolina, a tamarind rasam, and yoghurt. The meal cost 750 INR each, plus tax, plus extra for the beer, but was an experience to remember. We waddled around the village after that admiring the mostly crumbling architecture.
Returning to the car, Siva said head office wanted to talk to me and called them on his phone. A woman introduced herself, and asked for more detail about Tanjore Hi, because she was writing to the general manager of the property. Oh dear, what a fuss I've caused, but if the feedback helps the property improve, it's a good thing. This follow up is also an indication of just how seriously Indian Panorama take their guests comfort.
We drove for 30 minutes or so to another village temple, closed for the afternoon by now, but with colourful sculptures of the temple guardians outside and a neat step well. The roads here are deserted, and I wonder if we're still in India. A short time later we came across a gaggle of boys and young men on both sides of the road. Siva quickly activated central locking, and lowered his window to ask what was going on. It turns out they had a real live jallikattu bull just down a side track. We jumped out and walked with Siva and about 20 youngsters to where the bull was tethered under a tree. He was a small bull with a distinct hump, highly decorated and munching on bananas. He seemed pretty friendly, so I gave him a scratch behind the ears. Many photos were taken - by us of the bull, by the kids of us, by the kids of us with the bull, and with them, you get the idea. Yep, we're definitely still in India. These are the kind of interactions that bring India to life, getting right under your skin.
We drove to another stop and wandered the village where the Chettinad Palace is located. Foreigners are not allowed inside, but it is huge and appears well maintained. The surrounding bungalows are in various states of decay, the mould growing is an indication of how wet the area can be. Siva tells us that many mansion owners actually live in Singapore or Malaysia. They return for maybe a month per year, or for weddings or special birthdays. Often the sculptural details are brightly repainted for these special events. I think they look better faded.
On to The Bangala by about 16.00 where we are shown to a large room with high ceilings and the period features you'd expect. This bungalow was built in 1916 for the Meyyappam family, and remains with the family to this day. In 1999 they restored it and started the hotel business, the first of many who've followed suit. Throughout are framed family photographs and other paraphernalia, lots of books, and comfy lounging areas. There are more recent additions including a large pool and an open air kitchen where cooking classes are held. A small downside, there is no a la carte menu, you can have the traditional thali on banana leaf for lunch, or a four course menu for dinner. We just couldn't contemplate a huge dinner and had snacks brought from home in the room. It was bucketing down by now, perhaps the rain god heard me lamenting the lack of water.
Seemaskt, enjoy your trip ! Lucky you having family here and language ability.
I saw a lot about the women's march, apparently 10,000 marched in Sydney, and nearly 500 in my state capital (which is having a heatwave with 40 C temps).
Tanjore to Karaikudi in the Chettinad region. Saturday January 21.
The coffee was better this morning. Check out was again chaotic as the IP wrangler came to see how our time in Tanjore went, reception wanted me to complete a "how was your stay ?" form and of course I had to pay for the incidentals. DH snuck out the door, saying to me "be gentle". As I started on my short episode of war and peace, the card machine repeatedly failed. Enough said about Tanjore Hi.
We drove for just over an hour in light drizzle to a small village for a tea stop, then on to a family temple Anjayur where hundreds of terracotta animal statues (many broken) lined the entrance road. The rain continues to drizzle and the dirt is now mud. Barefoot and squelching through the red mud, we enjoyed this simple temple as the only visitors. The best bit was returning to the car, where a family was "fishing" in a long puddle. Small boys were scooping out handfuls of water, throwing them on to dryish ground and collecting the tiny fish and a few crabs. They will be dried and eaten. According to Siva they're very tasty and a part of his childhood.
On to Pudukottai village the site of Chidambaram Villas, a luxury hotel property originally built as a house for Raman Chettinar a hundred years ago. He was instrumental in building the wealth of the Chettinad region by trade with Burma and other countries.
We were taken for a tour of the mansion, which is spectacular with fittings from all over the world - Belgian glass chandeliers, Burmese teak carvings, Italian tiles and much grandeur. Lunch was amazing here, a traditional Chettinad meal served on a banana leaf. Oh my, so much food. We had at least eight kinds of veggies, rasa soup in a silver cup, a whole fish, chicken in gravy, three kinds of rice, chutneys, pickles, pappad, vada and a cold beer served in a silver tankard. It was a bit disconcerting to have two young waiters watch us (the only guests) eat. They stood less than a meter in front of us, and jeez they wanted us to eat, kept offering more. Later a sweet pudding with semolina, a tamarind rasam, and yoghurt. The meal cost 750 INR each, plus tax, plus extra for the beer, but was an experience to remember. We waddled around the village after that admiring the mostly crumbling architecture.
Returning to the car, Siva said head office wanted to talk to me and called them on his phone. A woman introduced herself, and asked for more detail about Tanjore Hi, because she was writing to the general manager of the property. Oh dear, what a fuss I've caused, but if the feedback helps the property improve, it's a good thing. This follow up is also an indication of just how seriously Indian Panorama take their guests comfort.
We drove for 30 minutes or so to another village temple, closed for the afternoon by now, but with colourful sculptures of the temple guardians outside and a neat step well. The roads here are deserted, and I wonder if we're still in India. A short time later we came across a gaggle of boys and young men on both sides of the road. Siva quickly activated central locking, and lowered his window to ask what was going on. It turns out they had a real live jallikattu bull just down a side track. We jumped out and walked with Siva and about 20 youngsters to where the bull was tethered under a tree. He was a small bull with a distinct hump, highly decorated and munching on bananas. He seemed pretty friendly, so I gave him a scratch behind the ears. Many photos were taken - by us of the bull, by the kids of us, by the kids of us with the bull, and with them, you get the idea. Yep, we're definitely still in India. These are the kind of interactions that bring India to life, getting right under your skin.
We drove to another stop and wandered the village where the Chettinad Palace is located. Foreigners are not allowed inside, but it is huge and appears well maintained. The surrounding bungalows are in various states of decay, the mould growing is an indication of how wet the area can be. Siva tells us that many mansion owners actually live in Singapore or Malaysia. They return for maybe a month per year, or for weddings or special birthdays. Often the sculptural details are brightly repainted for these special events. I think they look better faded.
On to The Bangala by about 16.00 where we are shown to a large room with high ceilings and the period features you'd expect. This bungalow was built in 1916 for the Meyyappam family, and remains with the family to this day. In 1999 they restored it and started the hotel business, the first of many who've followed suit. Throughout are framed family photographs and other paraphernalia, lots of books, and comfy lounging areas. There are more recent additions including a large pool and an open air kitchen where cooking classes are held. A small downside, there is no a la carte menu, you can have the traditional thali on banana leaf for lunch, or a four course menu for dinner. We just couldn't contemplate a huge dinner and had snacks brought from home in the room. It was bucketing down by now, perhaps the rain god heard me lamenting the lack of water.
Jan 23rd, 2017, 07:37 PM
#59
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Good morning, Sartoric!!!
Truly fascinated, and happy (as well as the aforementioned envy!) for you, and glad the strike didn't interfere with your trip. As tripplanner said, it was part of he adventure, but fortunately not in a negative way.
Bravo to you for expressing your Tanjore hotel disappointment; it helps you as well as future travelers, and feedback keeps places consistent, hopefully in a positive way. Otherwise, there's no way for travelers or travel agent planners to know, from one month to the next, if a place still is as good or bad as the last review.
(Don't feel bad. One place I've stayed at Orange County, with two Karnataka resorts --literally calls employees on the carpet to hear "constructive criticism" straight from the guests at checkout! It's very embarrassing for all concerned, as while filling out the feedback card, we did not know in advance that the poor employees will be called to hear the "accusation" directly! Horrible!)
I love reading every detail of your report. Thank you for taking this time out of your holiday! Looking forward to your description of the meal at The Bangala, when you have room in your tummies for it, as the place is famous for Chettiar cooking-- there's even a cookbook centered around their creations.
One or more of the numerous Hindu Gods or Goddesses must've heard your rain prayers!
Truly fascinated, and happy (as well as the aforementioned envy!) for you, and glad the strike didn't interfere with your trip. As tripplanner said, it was part of he adventure, but fortunately not in a negative way.
Bravo to you for expressing your Tanjore hotel disappointment; it helps you as well as future travelers, and feedback keeps places consistent, hopefully in a positive way. Otherwise, there's no way for travelers or travel agent planners to know, from one month to the next, if a place still is as good or bad as the last review.
(Don't feel bad. One place I've stayed at Orange County, with two Karnataka resorts --literally calls employees on the carpet to hear "constructive criticism" straight from the guests at checkout! It's very embarrassing for all concerned, as while filling out the feedback card, we did not know in advance that the poor employees will be called to hear the "accusation" directly! Horrible!)
I love reading every detail of your report. Thank you for taking this time out of your holiday! Looking forward to your description of the meal at The Bangala, when you have room in your tummies for it, as the place is famous for Chettiar cooking-- there's even a cookbook centered around their creations.
One or more of the numerous Hindu Gods or Goddesses must've heard your rain prayers!
Jan 24th, 2017, 12:31 AM
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Cali, if only the "not being affected" bit were true. I'm posting on a 2 or 3 day delay basis. The violence escalated on Sunday night.
I really enjoy writing while I'm on the road, it's fresh in my mind, I'd be taking notes anyway and probably wouldn't get to writing a report. This way, I have a record and hopefully others find some use, paying it forward as TP would say.
Love your experience in Karnataka, that would have been very awkward indeed.
I really enjoy writing while I'm on the road, it's fresh in my mind, I'd be taking notes anyway and probably wouldn't get to writing a report. This way, I have a record and hopefully others find some use, paying it forward as TP would say.
Love your experience in Karnataka, that would have been very awkward indeed.
