On the road again - to Incredible India.
Jan 16th, 2017, 02:42 AM
#21
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Thanks for your replies, we caught up the lost sleep, and are feeling so much better.
Chennai to Pondicherry via Mahabalipuram - Sunday 15 January.
Our driver for the next 12 days is Siva, he has good English and seems very knowledgeable about many things.
We are lucky to be in Tamil Nadu for the annual 3 day harvest festival, which runs each year from 14 - 16 January. Today is a special day for cows, who get their horns painted and wear flower decorations. It's funny to see the cows with yellow, green or multi coloured striped horns and garlands of chrysanthemums, they don't seem to mind.
We called the day Cowabunga in a homage to Bart Simpson. The actual name sounds very similar. Departing nondescript near airport hotel in Chennai (I can describe it more clearly now - awful) we motored to Mahabalipuram to see the temples and have lunch. The three sites are absolutely mobbed with people. There's a temple festival going on by the beach near the shore temple, and many, many families are enjoying the warm sunny day. Few people swim at this beach, or indeed along most of the Bay of Bengal. Apart from dangerous rips, there are also jellyfish which attack. We are told by Siva that 1000 people drown every year swimming in the bay, mostly young men.
A local guide cost INR 1300 for an informative tour of the temple sites. Lunch was at Wok to Dhaba, which had both indian and Chinese food. We enjoyed our meal of aloo gobi, parathas and chicken noodles. With 2 fresh orange juices, the cost was only 626 INR.
The drive to Pondicherry was easygoing, we checked out the huge salt pans, and many trees which Siva pointed out after discovering our interest in flora. He also explained the religious significance and medicinal properties, neem leaves are good for relieving the pain of chicken pox apparently, and banyan trees promote fertility.
The Hotel du Parc in Pondicherry is housed in a charming colonial building decorated with thousands of tiny light strings, quite magical once it got dark. Our room is huge with a foyer and bathroom downstairs, then up stairs to a king size bed, sitting area and a single bed. This was clearly once one huge room which has been divided into four hotel rooms. We chilled for an hour or so, then walked the promenade with a million others. There is an exhibit going on of local handicrafts (by the awkwardly titled "backward classes and minority development corporation") which we wandered through, seeing some beautifully detailed paintings and weavings. On the promenade a brass band was playing (rather poorly) but it was fun to watch the crowd enjoying the music.
Back to the hotel to freshen up, we chatted with two Aussie guys in the courtyard and ended up sharing a meal with them at Surguru Spot a vegetarian restaurant opposite our hotel. The meal was delicious and cost about AUD $8 per couple. We crashed and had a solid 8 hours sleep, bliss.
Chennai to Pondicherry via Mahabalipuram - Sunday 15 January.
Our driver for the next 12 days is Siva, he has good English and seems very knowledgeable about many things.
We are lucky to be in Tamil Nadu for the annual 3 day harvest festival, which runs each year from 14 - 16 January. Today is a special day for cows, who get their horns painted and wear flower decorations. It's funny to see the cows with yellow, green or multi coloured striped horns and garlands of chrysanthemums, they don't seem to mind.
We called the day Cowabunga in a homage to Bart Simpson. The actual name sounds very similar. Departing nondescript near airport hotel in Chennai (I can describe it more clearly now - awful) we motored to Mahabalipuram to see the temples and have lunch. The three sites are absolutely mobbed with people. There's a temple festival going on by the beach near the shore temple, and many, many families are enjoying the warm sunny day. Few people swim at this beach, or indeed along most of the Bay of Bengal. Apart from dangerous rips, there are also jellyfish which attack. We are told by Siva that 1000 people drown every year swimming in the bay, mostly young men.
A local guide cost INR 1300 for an informative tour of the temple sites. Lunch was at Wok to Dhaba, which had both indian and Chinese food. We enjoyed our meal of aloo gobi, parathas and chicken noodles. With 2 fresh orange juices, the cost was only 626 INR.
The drive to Pondicherry was easygoing, we checked out the huge salt pans, and many trees which Siva pointed out after discovering our interest in flora. He also explained the religious significance and medicinal properties, neem leaves are good for relieving the pain of chicken pox apparently, and banyan trees promote fertility.
The Hotel du Parc in Pondicherry is housed in a charming colonial building decorated with thousands of tiny light strings, quite magical once it got dark. Our room is huge with a foyer and bathroom downstairs, then up stairs to a king size bed, sitting area and a single bed. This was clearly once one huge room which has been divided into four hotel rooms. We chilled for an hour or so, then walked the promenade with a million others. There is an exhibit going on of local handicrafts (by the awkwardly titled "backward classes and minority development corporation") which we wandered through, seeing some beautifully detailed paintings and weavings. On the promenade a brass band was playing (rather poorly) but it was fun to watch the crowd enjoying the music.
Back to the hotel to freshen up, we chatted with two Aussie guys in the courtyard and ended up sharing a meal with them at Surguru Spot a vegetarian restaurant opposite our hotel. The meal was delicious and cost about AUD $8 per couple. We crashed and had a solid 8 hours sleep, bliss.
Jan 16th, 2017, 02:55 AM
#22
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I meant to address the cash situation.
Siva told us the cash crisis in Tamil Nadu is worse than in much of the rest of India.
He said 80% of ATM's are not working. Credit cards are not accepted in many places.
It is a real pain, the maximum amount you can withdraw is 4500 INR, and my bank charges $5 per withdrawal. As far as I know, no Australian banks offer reimbursement of foreign withdrawals, and I didn't bring a lot of cash. I changed some leftover Thai baht in Singapore for USD and INR, but only about USD $300.
I'm thinking I'll ask my sister to send me money by Western Union. Just another aspect to Incredible India really.
Siva told us the cash crisis in Tamil Nadu is worse than in much of the rest of India.
He said 80% of ATM's are not working. Credit cards are not accepted in many places.
It is a real pain, the maximum amount you can withdraw is 4500 INR, and my bank charges $5 per withdrawal. As far as I know, no Australian banks offer reimbursement of foreign withdrawals, and I didn't bring a lot of cash. I changed some leftover Thai baht in Singapore for USD and INR, but only about USD $300.
I'm thinking I'll ask my sister to send me money by Western Union. Just another aspect to Incredible India really.
Jan 16th, 2017, 04:02 AM
#23
sartoric,
What an amazing experience to start your trip with a festival! The images of Cowabunga has me smiling, with their horns painted and the cows all decked out with chrysanthemums.
The start of your visit to Pondicherry sounds like a lot of fun, too, hoping that the walk along the promenade "with a million others" was enjoyable even if very crowded. Love the awkwardly-titled crafts exhibit!
Thank you for updating us on the cash situation and, when you can, let us know how you're managing it. I would hope that most (all?) of your hotels do take credit cards, no?
Thanks again for taking the time to keep us up to date with your trip!
What an amazing experience to start your trip with a festival! The images of Cowabunga has me smiling, with their horns painted and the cows all decked out with chrysanthemums.
The start of your visit to Pondicherry sounds like a lot of fun, too, hoping that the walk along the promenade "with a million others" was enjoyable even if very crowded. Love the awkwardly-titled crafts exhibit!
Thank you for updating us on the cash situation and, when you can, let us know how you're managing it. I would hope that most (all?) of your hotels do take credit cards, no?
Thanks again for taking the time to keep us up to date with your trip!
Jan 16th, 2017, 08:52 AM
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Joining in on the fun too, even though we just arrived home from our own adventure. You are braver than we for diving into India; we have yet to bite the bullet. Wish you a safe and rewarding journey with many positive surprises ahead.
Jan 16th, 2017, 01:50 PM
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Great to be able to follow along with you and glad you are enjoying yourselves. Money shouldn't be too terrible of a problem as food and expenses are so cheap in India. We were told that people do not swim on the beaches at Pondicherry as it is too dangerous with strong rip currents. Waiting to hear more!
Jan 16th, 2017, 09:24 PM
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Good morning Sartoric.
"the maximum amount you can withdraw is 4500 INR"
By today you probably know--as it was the big headline in all the newspaper there, per my friend in India now--that the max withdrawal per day, per card, is increased to 10,000 INR (about $200 Australian?) So maybe you wont need your sister to wire more money after all?
How wonderful that your driver Siva speaks good English (not always the case, in India and elsewhere!) and is sharing lots of good info with you. The driver anywhere can really make or break a trip!
Hotel du Parc sounds excellent!
What was name of your awful airport hotel--so I (all of us!) can avoid it!? I'd noted somewhere that the Quality Hotel (aka Southern Comfort, lol) includes airport pickup and, per t.a. reviews, has decent if small rooms. Was this where you stayed? Somewhere i read, more than in any other country, in India "you get what you pay for," lodging-wise. It'll be interesting to see if you agree, with your many travels to other places as point of comparison.
You have a great attitude. "Another aspect to Incredible India reality." Love it!!
Have a great day--Kumbakonam next? See, i really am following along!
"the maximum amount you can withdraw is 4500 INR"
By today you probably know--as it was the big headline in all the newspaper there, per my friend in India now--that the max withdrawal per day, per card, is increased to 10,000 INR (about $200 Australian?) So maybe you wont need your sister to wire more money after all?
How wonderful that your driver Siva speaks good English (not always the case, in India and elsewhere!) and is sharing lots of good info with you. The driver anywhere can really make or break a trip!
Hotel du Parc sounds excellent!
What was name of your awful airport hotel--so I (all of us!) can avoid it!? I'd noted somewhere that the Quality Hotel (aka Southern Comfort, lol) includes airport pickup and, per t.a. reviews, has decent if small rooms. Was this where you stayed? Somewhere i read, more than in any other country, in India "you get what you pay for," lodging-wise. It'll be interesting to see if you agree, with your many travels to other places as point of comparison.
You have a great attitude. "Another aspect to Incredible India reality." Love it!!
Have a great day--Kumbakonam next? See, i really am following along!
Jan 17th, 2017, 04:57 PM
#29
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Cali, the airport hotel is called Saibala Grand. It was only AUD $61 per night, so we got what we paid for I guess.
Monday January 16 in Pondicherry.
We start at 9.30 with a walk around the French quarter with Siva. He points out the many different architectural styles, the colours of the buildings meanings (yellow and white = French, grey and white = Ashram) and we visit the ashram of Sri Aurobinda. Next a walk through the public park which was green and lush, with many statues of famous Indians and steps built to enable changing of the light globes which highlight them.
After, we drive slowly around the Muslim quarter, visit the French built cathedral Sacre Cour (which is lovely), then drive to Auroville. Siva points us toward the start of the path, tells us we'll see a video at the visitor centre explaining the reason for Auroville. So, off we go to the view point of the dome, about 30 minutes walk through dusty red dirt and many fine trees. We followed the throngs of nearly all Indian families dressed in their colourful finest, not seeing any obvious visitor centre, but geez the children were cute. The visitor centre was closed for the public holiday.....bummer, but we eventually tracked down an information leaflet which helped a little with our understanding of Auroville. It's a great idea, and would have been better with the visitor centre open, but hey, this is Incredible India, so we go with the flow.
We stopped at the Kali temple, and walked with the masses of all Indian people to a closed temple. I got many stares, laughs (in a nice way) and beautiful smiles.
Inexplicably, there were hundreds of people lined up at a closed gate. Again, Incredible India....the temples are all closed for the public holiday. I have no idea why the line formed or where the linees thought they'd go. The temple grounds were interesting enough, and we finally got that photo of a cow with painted horns.
Today I noticed that no one riding a motorbike was wearing a helmet. Siva tells me that because it is a public holiday the police won't fine people for minor breaches of the law, but tomorrow will be a different story. There were also lots of trucks carrying people standing on the tray back, again it will be a different story tomorrow. I asked if four people on a motorbike was allowed, apparently yes if it's a family (the police will not punish a family) but no if it's say four men. More Incredible India.
We wandered the promenade again to Ajantha Sea View hotel for a late lunch on a first floor balcony overlooking the Bay of Bengal. This was so much fun, just sitting and watching the parade of beautifully dressed women. India is the reverse peacock, the women colourful, the men bland. Many groups of people on the street waved to us and were delighted when we waved back. I must remember to look up more often.
The food here was okay (squid with chilli and spring onions), the service slow and indifferent, but the 5 young Indian people at the table next to us were hilarious. I was in tears of laughter at the antics of one woman who was very wobbly, and clearly under the weather. I wish we'd engaged them earlier because it could have made our day even more special.
When we left I had to ask why they were all speaking English. The reason...they're from different states and English was the one language they shared. They then asked for a photo with us, took group selfies, including one with my phone. Precious.
I bought a painting at the unfortunately named exhibition and spent time talking to the artist, a crowd gathered to watch the exchange.
In the evening I went into the temple across the street from our hotel, a young man approached me and said he was hungry. I'm a soft touch and gave him a few rupees, in exchange he gave me a slightly crumpled December flower. I noticed others giving a few rupees to one of the priests (not the right word, but the best I can come up with) in exchange they received a pinch of coloured powder to dab on the forehead. So, I did the same. Shortly after 3 young women approached me and basically said I'd got it a bit wrong and could they fix it. Sure, go for it. They wiped away my error, reapplied a new spot and whipped out a bobby pin to fix the December flower to my hair. We then took selfies... priceless !
We went to the restaurant recommended by Siva, but thought it looked a bit Coles Cafeteria, so ate again at Suguru Spot. Spinach poori, aloo gobi, dal and rice. Delicious and very cheap. The meal cost about INR 400. More importantly, DH who is a devout carnivore said he could become vegetarian if the food was all this good.
I'm loving this.
Monday January 16 in Pondicherry.
We start at 9.30 with a walk around the French quarter with Siva. He points out the many different architectural styles, the colours of the buildings meanings (yellow and white = French, grey and white = Ashram) and we visit the ashram of Sri Aurobinda. Next a walk through the public park which was green and lush, with many statues of famous Indians and steps built to enable changing of the light globes which highlight them.
After, we drive slowly around the Muslim quarter, visit the French built cathedral Sacre Cour (which is lovely), then drive to Auroville. Siva points us toward the start of the path, tells us we'll see a video at the visitor centre explaining the reason for Auroville. So, off we go to the view point of the dome, about 30 minutes walk through dusty red dirt and many fine trees. We followed the throngs of nearly all Indian families dressed in their colourful finest, not seeing any obvious visitor centre, but geez the children were cute. The visitor centre was closed for the public holiday.....bummer, but we eventually tracked down an information leaflet which helped a little with our understanding of Auroville. It's a great idea, and would have been better with the visitor centre open, but hey, this is Incredible India, so we go with the flow.
We stopped at the Kali temple, and walked with the masses of all Indian people to a closed temple. I got many stares, laughs (in a nice way) and beautiful smiles.
Inexplicably, there were hundreds of people lined up at a closed gate. Again, Incredible India....the temples are all closed for the public holiday. I have no idea why the line formed or where the linees thought they'd go. The temple grounds were interesting enough, and we finally got that photo of a cow with painted horns.
Today I noticed that no one riding a motorbike was wearing a helmet. Siva tells me that because it is a public holiday the police won't fine people for minor breaches of the law, but tomorrow will be a different story. There were also lots of trucks carrying people standing on the tray back, again it will be a different story tomorrow. I asked if four people on a motorbike was allowed, apparently yes if it's a family (the police will not punish a family) but no if it's say four men. More Incredible India.
We wandered the promenade again to Ajantha Sea View hotel for a late lunch on a first floor balcony overlooking the Bay of Bengal. This was so much fun, just sitting and watching the parade of beautifully dressed women. India is the reverse peacock, the women colourful, the men bland. Many groups of people on the street waved to us and were delighted when we waved back. I must remember to look up more often.
The food here was okay (squid with chilli and spring onions), the service slow and indifferent, but the 5 young Indian people at the table next to us were hilarious. I was in tears of laughter at the antics of one woman who was very wobbly, and clearly under the weather. I wish we'd engaged them earlier because it could have made our day even more special.
When we left I had to ask why they were all speaking English. The reason...they're from different states and English was the one language they shared. They then asked for a photo with us, took group selfies, including one with my phone. Precious.
I bought a painting at the unfortunately named exhibition and spent time talking to the artist, a crowd gathered to watch the exchange.
In the evening I went into the temple across the street from our hotel, a young man approached me and said he was hungry. I'm a soft touch and gave him a few rupees, in exchange he gave me a slightly crumpled December flower. I noticed others giving a few rupees to one of the priests (not the right word, but the best I can come up with) in exchange they received a pinch of coloured powder to dab on the forehead. So, I did the same. Shortly after 3 young women approached me and basically said I'd got it a bit wrong and could they fix it. Sure, go for it. They wiped away my error, reapplied a new spot and whipped out a bobby pin to fix the December flower to my hair. We then took selfies... priceless !
We went to the restaurant recommended by Siva, but thought it looked a bit Coles Cafeteria, so ate again at Suguru Spot. Spinach poori, aloo gobi, dal and rice. Delicious and very cheap. The meal cost about INR 400. More importantly, DH who is a devout carnivore said he could become vegetarian if the food was all this good.
I'm loving this.
Jan 17th, 2017, 06:07 PM
#30
When I started visiting Asia in the early 2000s nobody on a motor bike wore a helmet (no seat belts either). Don't remember the situation in India but the last time I was in Vietnam you still saw families on motor bikes - small motor bikes. Not at all sure I believe that you won't see people riding dangerously tomorrow!
Jan 17th, 2017, 08:34 PM
#31
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Thanks, Sartoric. Hotel Saibala Chennai is going immediately on my "no fly zone" list !
Your observations and descriptions of the day's adventures with people you meet remind me of why I love India and keep returning. Wonderful that you are loving it too.
Referring to your ATM comment on the rupees thread...Siva is a prince!
On an overnight train in which we shared the compartment with a scurrying mouse, a young Indian couple shared their ultimate wisdom, accompanied by a smile and shrug: "It's India!"
Thank you for writing from the road!!
Your observations and descriptions of the day's adventures with people you meet remind me of why I love India and keep returning. Wonderful that you are loving it too.
Referring to your ATM comment on the rupees thread...Siva is a prince!
On an overnight train in which we shared the compartment with a scurrying mouse, a young Indian couple shared their ultimate wisdom, accompanied by a smile and shrug: "It's India!"
Thank you for writing from the road!!
Jan 17th, 2017, 10:07 PM
#32
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What a wonderful description of your time in Pondicherry. I'm ready to hit the road for my September trip. So who is this Siva that you and CaliNurse are raving about? Is he a driver and a guide and how do I "reserve him?"
I agree that Indian vegetarian food is fantastic. I could live on dosas, puris, and coconut curries. We have some vegetarian Indian restaurants here near Los Angeles, but I thought it all tasted much better in India.
I agree that Indian vegetarian food is fantastic. I could live on dosas, puris, and coconut curries. We have some vegetarian Indian restaurants here near Los Angeles, but I thought it all tasted much better in India.
Jan 18th, 2017, 12:11 AM
#33
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Quick reply CL, he is the driver allotted to us by Indian Panorama. He has been a professional driver for 16 years and is very knowledgeable about all things India. He doesn't come with us into temples or sites, we usually find him sleeping in the car when we return to it. Guides are readily available at major sites.
Jan 18th, 2017, 03:01 AM
#34
Loving this, sartoric! I'm so taken by the small interactions and your observations of daily life -- I'm smiling ear to ear as I read! This is how India gets under your skin and stays there! It's not only the gorgeous colors and other sensory experiences, but those lovely moments.
I agree, Siva sounds wonderful!
I agree, Siva sounds wonderful!
Jan 18th, 2017, 04:10 PM
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Thanks you for all your replies.
Thursdaysd, correct there were no differences to the number of helmets seen on the following day, although the people standing in the back of trucks was much less.
CaliNurse, CL, TP and Progol, the people make every trip eh ? Djunbug, your report was extremely useful, thanks. Always good to have you along Kathie.
Pondicherry to Kumbakonam via a temple stop at Chidambaram. Tuesday January 17.
First we stopped at a small family temple just outside Pondicherry. It's called Karikovil and has a colourful collection of toys. There was one family there making their offerings.
We motored on to Chidambaram to visit a huge temple with beautiful carved stone columns and many visitors. After we went to the second largest mangrove forest in the world (the largest is in Australia apparently) to take a boat ride. The place is called Pitchivarum and is an initiative of the Tamil Nadu tourism association. Many Indian people here, no other westerners, but the cash crisis prevented us from actually taking the boat at 1235 INR, instead we paid 10 rupees to climb the lookout tower for the views. Bummer (about the cash, not the views which were pleasant enough).
Pushing on towards Kumbakonam we stopped at a small town to buy phone credit. I noticed Siva scrabbling in the centre console for change, and buying one cigarette from the shop next door. We're all nearly out of cash. He quizzed the owner about working ATMs and indeed there was one in town. We got directions, found it, and the long line graciously allowed me to jump the queue, as I'm a guest in their country. Siva who's not a guest would have had to wait, so I spotted him some cash.
We finally got to Paradise Resort by 3 pm, were welcomed with garlands of flowers and found that lunch had finished. No matter, snacks were available so we enjoyed some onion pakoda and a cold beer while watching a woman sweep the grass (I kid you not).
Siva returned for us at 5pm to take us to an old and very beautiful temple Dharamsuram from the chola dynasty. A lovely family engaged us and offered information and sweets. More selfies taken. We also spent some time with a weaving family enterprise, and looked at their silk sari offerings. These were just beautiful, each one takes seven days to weave. I didn't ask the price, but imagine they'd be expensive given the man hours involved.
Dinner at our hotel was delicious, chicken in creamy cashew sauce, spinach paneer, parathas and rice. The food here is very tasty and the setting lovely, overlooking manicured gardens.
Thursdaysd, correct there were no differences to the number of helmets seen on the following day, although the people standing in the back of trucks was much less.
CaliNurse, CL, TP and Progol, the people make every trip eh ? Djunbug, your report was extremely useful, thanks. Always good to have you along Kathie.
Pondicherry to Kumbakonam via a temple stop at Chidambaram. Tuesday January 17.
First we stopped at a small family temple just outside Pondicherry. It's called Karikovil and has a colourful collection of toys. There was one family there making their offerings.
We motored on to Chidambaram to visit a huge temple with beautiful carved stone columns and many visitors. After we went to the second largest mangrove forest in the world (the largest is in Australia apparently) to take a boat ride. The place is called Pitchivarum and is an initiative of the Tamil Nadu tourism association. Many Indian people here, no other westerners, but the cash crisis prevented us from actually taking the boat at 1235 INR, instead we paid 10 rupees to climb the lookout tower for the views. Bummer (about the cash, not the views which were pleasant enough).
Pushing on towards Kumbakonam we stopped at a small town to buy phone credit. I noticed Siva scrabbling in the centre console for change, and buying one cigarette from the shop next door. We're all nearly out of cash. He quizzed the owner about working ATMs and indeed there was one in town. We got directions, found it, and the long line graciously allowed me to jump the queue, as I'm a guest in their country. Siva who's not a guest would have had to wait, so I spotted him some cash.
We finally got to Paradise Resort by 3 pm, were welcomed with garlands of flowers and found that lunch had finished. No matter, snacks were available so we enjoyed some onion pakoda and a cold beer while watching a woman sweep the grass (I kid you not).
Siva returned for us at 5pm to take us to an old and very beautiful temple Dharamsuram from the chola dynasty. A lovely family engaged us and offered information and sweets. More selfies taken. We also spent some time with a weaving family enterprise, and looked at their silk sari offerings. These were just beautiful, each one takes seven days to weave. I didn't ask the price, but imagine they'd be expensive given the man hours involved.
Dinner at our hotel was delicious, chicken in creamy cashew sauce, spinach paneer, parathas and rice. The food here is very tasty and the setting lovely, overlooking manicured gardens.
Jan 18th, 2017, 06:22 PM
#38
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Good morning, Sartoric! Still following along, enviously enjoying every word. They say in India "Guest is God=Atithi Devo Bhava" and it seems you are experiencing that.
Love the "sweeping grass" story. Those long brooms in slow moves...another scene I associate in particular with India. Watch or re-watch "The Namesake" when you get home. There are numerous reasons to do so, not least of which is a marvelous scene of a woman sweeping at the Taj Mahal.
Jumping ahead a bit, wasn't there going to be a special celebration night for your husband?
Where will that take place?
Love the "sweeping grass" story. Those long brooms in slow moves...another scene I associate in particular with India. Watch or re-watch "The Namesake" when you get home. There are numerous reasons to do so, not least of which is a marvelous scene of a woman sweeping at the Taj Mahal.
Jumping ahead a bit, wasn't there going to be a special celebration night for your husband?
Where will that take place?
Jan 18th, 2017, 07:53 PM
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It sounds like you had a fabulous day. Siva sounds like the driver sent from heaven above. How proactive were you in planning your itinerary? Did you spell it out in detail to the agency, or is Siva winging it, or another scenario?
CaliNurse, do you use Siva, or another driver from the same agency?
CaliNurse, do you use Siva, or another driver from the same agency?
