Nywoman goes solo in Laos
Oct 19th, 2009, 02:42 AM
#21
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Vientianboy,
I was basically relating my experience at a most professionally run cooking school. As far as authentic, that is a very big word to use in any context.
Tamnak Lao may be the "best restaurant" their Laab had too much fish sauce in my opinion. If that is how it should be I don't like it. I have had some very good food which has suited my palate, none was Western, for that I use my own kitchen
I was basically relating my experience at a most professionally run cooking school. As far as authentic, that is a very big word to use in any context.
Tamnak Lao may be the "best restaurant" their Laab had too much fish sauce in my opinion. If that is how it should be I don't like it. I have had some very good food which has suited my palate, none was Western, for that I use my own kitchen
Oct 19th, 2009, 07:20 AM
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Wonderful report, nywoman. You are truly enjoying your trip.
You epitomize what travel is all about...thank you for sharing it with us. I can sense your enjoyment of life and what travel brings to it.
Keep up the good work
You epitomize what travel is all about...thank you for sharing it with us. I can sense your enjoyment of life and what travel brings to it.
Keep up the good work
Oct 19th, 2009, 07:40 AM
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Umm, do you mind if I raise a rather unpleasant subject. Since you were recently in Moung Ngoi, did you happen to hear of an incident that occured in early October involving a female traveler. I'm just trying to verify whether this incident actually occured and am wondering if there was any mention of such while you were there.
Thanks.
Thanks.
Oct 19th, 2009, 09:43 AM
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Thanks CubeNY!
Oh, btw, who is offering the kayak trips to Sop Jamm? Is it a guided excursion from M. Ngoi? That's a great way to go since you're able to stop and visit caves or other destinations en route.
Oh, btw, who is offering the kayak trips to Sop Jamm? Is it a guided excursion from M. Ngoi? That's a great way to go since you're able to stop and visit caves or other destinations en route.
Oct 19th, 2009, 04:44 PM
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"I was basically relating my experience at a most professionally run cooking school. As far as authentic, that is a very big word to use in any context."
NYW, As I said in my post, if you enjoyed the food, that's fine. Others who want a truly authentic experience should be aware that Tamarind is not truly authentic.
"Authentic" is not really a "big word" when it comes to Lao people who have worked in restaurants commenting on the food - in this case my wife.
NYW, As I said in my post, if you enjoyed the food, that's fine. Others who want a truly authentic experience should be aware that Tamarind is not truly authentic.
"Authentic" is not really a "big word" when it comes to Lao people who have worked in restaurants commenting on the food - in this case my wife.
Oct 19th, 2009, 06:28 PM
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Didn't hear of any incidence. However that doesn't mean anything since the only tourists I met were the people on my boat and another couple who stayed at the same guest house. Arrived fairly late and left early next morning.
Did my usual stroll around the market but didn't meet any other tourists. Yes it seemed very deserted, and not very welcoming.
Am now in Luang Nam Tha after an 8 hour bus trip. Had a delicious noodle soup for breakfast and am not quite sure how to spend the rest of my day, probably the market.
Did my usual stroll around the market but didn't meet any other tourists. Yes it seemed very deserted, and not very welcoming.
Am now in Luang Nam Tha after an 8 hour bus trip. Had a delicious noodle soup for breakfast and am not quite sure how to spend the rest of my day, probably the market.
Oct 19th, 2009, 07:08 PM
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NYWoman: the absolute last thing you should be is frustrated with how you and your body are handling this trip. From your description its quite likely few of us would have started trekking up and over the water buffalo paths in search of a jungle waterfall. That you have embarked on this great adventure is itself simply terrific. Your posting is great. Continued good travels.
And yes, NYwoman does indeed know her larb.
And yes, NYwoman does indeed know her larb.
Oct 20th, 2009, 02:21 AM
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It is 6 am in Muang Khua, the dogs are already fighting and the roosters want everybody to know that it is time to wake up. Am staying at the Namou (their spelling) guest house for 40.000 kip or $5. Hot water shower, when the electricity is on. The hill up from the boatlanding is very steep and though my suitcase only weighs 13 kilos it is still very hard going. Fortunately I saw a young man with a pushcart and asked if he would take my luggage. He agreed but rather than the pushcart he carried the bag up the hill.
Checked out the Hotel and it looked dismal so continued onwards, towards Namou. Fortunately when I got to the market the daughter of the owner was there and helped me with my bag, down impossible stone stairs and steps that for me were very hard to maneuver, with my bag and knapsack. The room is fine with a lovely view overlooking the river. As this place was also written up as having good food, the rest of the people from the boat, a couple I met in cooking class and a another couple were all in the dining area when it was dinnertime, again I had company while eating.
My original tentative plan was to go to Phonsalan, since it was supposed to be a magnificent landscape and a beautiful drive there. After speaking to a few people I changed my mind. Opted instead to go to Luang Nam Tha, where it seemed more things to see and do. The bus left at 8.30 for Udomxai which was a 4 hour ride to be continued by another 5 hours on a different bus. There were 5 of us making this trip, I had to go to the bathroom in Udomxai, when I came out they had already boarded the bus, my bag was on top of the roof, and the ticket seller tells me the bus is full I have to wait until tomorrow. There is no way I am going to be left behind, which I inform him, and all of a sudden there is space for me. This bus ride is like everything I have read about but never experienced. There are at least 7 large sacks of rice on the floor, a few boxes behind the driver that some young men are sitting on. There are fold down seats between the rows, and I get the one in front, which is fine since I can stretch my legs.
What We didn't expect was the bus stopping on the road and picking up more people. In the end it was literally standing room only. Had managed to buy a few apples and a bamboo stick filled with sweet coconut sticky rice. It was actually a fine lunch.
The ride was gorgeous, at first following the river Nam Phak then over mountains, with incredible views of rice paddies in valleys and villages on the roadside. Our driver liked his music at a certain level, while not quite driving like a car thief which made the drive a little more adventuresome, especially where there was roadwork going on and trucks had to pass. It was really not a bad experience, much better than what I had anticipated. There were several small children on the bus, who never made a squeak. One little boy was very busy with the Smiley face stickers I had given him, another little girl she was only 17 months and had very bad boils on her neck, was petrified of me and kept her face averted the whole time. Her father who spoke very good English explained he had to take her to Udomxai because the hospital in Luang Nam Tha was not as good. He showed us where he worked at the Post Office which was several miles from where he lived. He stayed there Mon-Fri and came home on weekends, he also pointed out his house before he got off.
Luang Nam Tha is really very nice, there are a lot of guest houses and internet places. It is hard to tell how many tourists are really here since most probably opt for Treks, Bike rides, Kayaking or Self guided motorbike trips, which all take place during the day. I saw a total of 3 westerners at the market this morning. Am staying at Zuela Guest House, which is in the center of town. A nice large room with hot water shower for 50.000 kip or $6. Unfortunately their restaurant is closed for restoration. It may not be the most pittoresque town I have ever been to, actually it reminds me very much of southern Chile, but it is nice and people seem very welcoming.
This morning I went to the market after having had a wonderful noodle soup similar to Pho, on my way there I checked a few agencies to see if I could do a boatride to visit some minority villages. It became quite costly as I would be alone, and since I am leaving for Muang Sing in the morning, which is smack in the middle of minorities, hopefully I will get to see some villages. While on my way also stop by Laos Air to check on my flight, which has been cancelled due to lack of passengers. This means I will have one more day in the north and one day less in Vientiane. Am promised a flight out on Monday, will thus be able to catch my Tuesday flight to Bangkok.
Walk by several stores where they are making flower bouquets using mainly red roses, can not find out what is going on but it is obviously something special since these are not flowershops.
The market, what a wonderful market, rows of women selling ready to eat food, 60% which I couldn't identify. No problem I was given tastes as I went along. Ended up for a while sharing snails with one of the stall keepers and her friend. I have had snails in black bean sauce, these were the same small variety but with a wonderful bite and flavor to them. Hope to get the recipe one way or another. At another stall I tasted jellied pigs feet, again a very sophisticated mix of flavors. There were also mini cucumbers cooked with their vines and flowers in a slight chili sauce. Later in the day I returned and bought full size portions together with some sticky rice. I am given chop sticks a place to sit and made very comfortable. A delicious lunch for less than $1 it was perfect. Have walked the entire market, it is large. Am unable to find pants, that are not jeans, or in heavier materials, suppose I will have gto wait until Bangkok, so get ready to leave.
Across the street, in front of a large hotel advertising a special rate of 80 Yuan a night, young girls are setting up stalls with floral wreaths made of orchids, flower bouquets with stuffed animals.and now I really need to know what that something special is, Today is school graduation and the festivities are happening at the hotel. Or at least some of them. The skies have opened up and I take a tuk Tuk back to the hotel for a nap, since last night was pretty sleepless. Tonight is dinner at the Boat Landing will report later.
Checked out the Hotel and it looked dismal so continued onwards, towards Namou. Fortunately when I got to the market the daughter of the owner was there and helped me with my bag, down impossible stone stairs and steps that for me were very hard to maneuver, with my bag and knapsack. The room is fine with a lovely view overlooking the river. As this place was also written up as having good food, the rest of the people from the boat, a couple I met in cooking class and a another couple were all in the dining area when it was dinnertime, again I had company while eating.
My original tentative plan was to go to Phonsalan, since it was supposed to be a magnificent landscape and a beautiful drive there. After speaking to a few people I changed my mind. Opted instead to go to Luang Nam Tha, where it seemed more things to see and do. The bus left at 8.30 for Udomxai which was a 4 hour ride to be continued by another 5 hours on a different bus. There were 5 of us making this trip, I had to go to the bathroom in Udomxai, when I came out they had already boarded the bus, my bag was on top of the roof, and the ticket seller tells me the bus is full I have to wait until tomorrow. There is no way I am going to be left behind, which I inform him, and all of a sudden there is space for me. This bus ride is like everything I have read about but never experienced. There are at least 7 large sacks of rice on the floor, a few boxes behind the driver that some young men are sitting on. There are fold down seats between the rows, and I get the one in front, which is fine since I can stretch my legs.
What We didn't expect was the bus stopping on the road and picking up more people. In the end it was literally standing room only. Had managed to buy a few apples and a bamboo stick filled with sweet coconut sticky rice. It was actually a fine lunch.
The ride was gorgeous, at first following the river Nam Phak then over mountains, with incredible views of rice paddies in valleys and villages on the roadside. Our driver liked his music at a certain level, while not quite driving like a car thief which made the drive a little more adventuresome, especially where there was roadwork going on and trucks had to pass. It was really not a bad experience, much better than what I had anticipated. There were several small children on the bus, who never made a squeak. One little boy was very busy with the Smiley face stickers I had given him, another little girl she was only 17 months and had very bad boils on her neck, was petrified of me and kept her face averted the whole time. Her father who spoke very good English explained he had to take her to Udomxai because the hospital in Luang Nam Tha was not as good. He showed us where he worked at the Post Office which was several miles from where he lived. He stayed there Mon-Fri and came home on weekends, he also pointed out his house before he got off.
Luang Nam Tha is really very nice, there are a lot of guest houses and internet places. It is hard to tell how many tourists are really here since most probably opt for Treks, Bike rides, Kayaking or Self guided motorbike trips, which all take place during the day. I saw a total of 3 westerners at the market this morning. Am staying at Zuela Guest House, which is in the center of town. A nice large room with hot water shower for 50.000 kip or $6. Unfortunately their restaurant is closed for restoration. It may not be the most pittoresque town I have ever been to, actually it reminds me very much of southern Chile, but it is nice and people seem very welcoming.
This morning I went to the market after having had a wonderful noodle soup similar to Pho, on my way there I checked a few agencies to see if I could do a boatride to visit some minority villages. It became quite costly as I would be alone, and since I am leaving for Muang Sing in the morning, which is smack in the middle of minorities, hopefully I will get to see some villages. While on my way also stop by Laos Air to check on my flight, which has been cancelled due to lack of passengers. This means I will have one more day in the north and one day less in Vientiane. Am promised a flight out on Monday, will thus be able to catch my Tuesday flight to Bangkok.
Walk by several stores where they are making flower bouquets using mainly red roses, can not find out what is going on but it is obviously something special since these are not flowershops.
The market, what a wonderful market, rows of women selling ready to eat food, 60% which I couldn't identify. No problem I was given tastes as I went along. Ended up for a while sharing snails with one of the stall keepers and her friend. I have had snails in black bean sauce, these were the same small variety but with a wonderful bite and flavor to them. Hope to get the recipe one way or another. At another stall I tasted jellied pigs feet, again a very sophisticated mix of flavors. There were also mini cucumbers cooked with their vines and flowers in a slight chili sauce. Later in the day I returned and bought full size portions together with some sticky rice. I am given chop sticks a place to sit and made very comfortable. A delicious lunch for less than $1 it was perfect. Have walked the entire market, it is large. Am unable to find pants, that are not jeans, or in heavier materials, suppose I will have gto wait until Bangkok, so get ready to leave.
Across the street, in front of a large hotel advertising a special rate of 80 Yuan a night, young girls are setting up stalls with floral wreaths made of orchids, flower bouquets with stuffed animals.and now I really need to know what that something special is, Today is school graduation and the festivities are happening at the hotel. Or at least some of them. The skies have opened up and I take a tuk Tuk back to the hotel for a nap, since last night was pretty sleepless. Tonight is dinner at the Boat Landing will report later.
Oct 20th, 2009, 02:37 AM
#35
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Vientianeboy,
What are the possibilities that your wife has the recipe for the snails? This are something that I would love to reproduce in NYC,
and should be able to fairly easily I think.
What are the possibilities that your wife has the recipe for the snails? This are something that I would love to reproduce in NYC,
and should be able to fairly easily I think.
Oct 20th, 2009, 03:19 AM
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OK, Fanny has tried to trick us by breaking up her trip report into location specific segments. We're not falling for it. Some of us are too clever (by half). It goes without saying that because the reports are contemporaneous, they are timely and no penalty applies. I also not that she has risen above the fray and not been bogged down in an endless dispute over her choice of LP cooking schools. I'm not sure that I could have done this. Bravo.
Oct 20th, 2009, 04:01 AM
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Fanny, we had considered visiting northern Laos before deciding on Varanasi and Kathmandu for next February. From reading your report so far, I think we made the right decision. However, I am thoroughly enjoying traveling vicariously with you and sharing in your experiences. While traveling on crowded buses, eating street food and staying in $5/night guest houses are out of my comfort zone, I can appreciate that this style of travel really works for you.
Oct 20th, 2009, 04:04 AM
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Thanks for the info about Moung Ngoi, NYwoman. And also for the report between Muang Khua and Namtha. I'm sorry about the Lao Airline flight cancellation but unfortunately, they do cancel on very short notice for some of their less used routes. If it's not too late, you could still exit back out to Thailand by taking the morning bus from Namtha to Huay Xai and hop a short boat ride across the Mekong to Chiang Khong Thailand which is only 2.5 hours from Chiang Rai and closer to 5.5 hours to Chiang Mai (budget flights back to Bangkok). Anyways, hope it all works out well for you and have a safe trip.
