Nywoman goes solo in Laos
Oct 14th, 2009, 05:12 AM
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Nywoman goes solo in Laos
Having spent a very wet night in Bangkok, wet in the sense that the skies opened up, I never expected the Bangkok Air flight to depart on time for Luang Prabang, L.P. from now on. Well it did, 1 hour 40 minutes later, including lunch and 2 glasses of wine we landed.
Flying over the country on our approach to the airport, the country side is so green and verdant, am itching to explore further. After having obtained my visa, Sweden is $4 cheaper than the USA My driver met me. Having decided to splurge I am staying at the Apsara a boutique hotel $70 US/night. The hotel is lovely, location perfect, room is gorgeous with a king size bed, huge bathroom and very thick and soft towels. I feel it may have been a mistake, the other guests are couples, politely say good morning at breakfast, but there is no interaction at all. However I may live to eat those words as my trip through Laos progresses with slow boats and guest houses.
L.P. is a complete shock, I have read numerous descriptions, and nothing prepares me for this small town feeling and look…..am not quite sure if there is anything else like this anywhere else. There are tourists, but not an overwhelming amount, the buildings are low, none above 3 stories, painted mainly white. Most of the signs for restaurants and guest houses are on wooden highly varnished plaques.
The police station is a tiny building in the middle of Sinavangvon Road a.k.a. Main Street. This I walk up and down a few times trying to locate an ATM, the maximum you can withdraw is 70.000 kip (approx $80US) with a service charge of 20.000kip $2.40. Since I left all those crisp dollar bills in Bangkok, to use in Myanmar will have to deal with this in some fashion. Walk down to the night market, there is not much of interest, I buy a couple of shirts, which I had planned to, and go for dinner.
Dinner was at Tamnak Lao, ordered a pork Laab, sticky rice and a Lao Lao which I thought was the local beer. It is not, it is the local moonshine, it reminds me of cheap tequila. Dinner was fair, I felt that there was too much fish sauce in the Laab, but that may be the way the dish should be. Start a conversation with Mike from England via Hawaii, for the last 40 years, he took early retirement, before the company went belly up and is fulfilling his dream of traveling SEA while the wife stays at home teaching. He was a really interesting character, and I enjoyed our conversation. By now it is 10 pm and bedtime, early rising to partake in the alms procession tomorrow.
Wake up 5 am and get up, don’t want to miss a thing here. Am out on the still fairly dark street by 5.30 and it is an amazing sight. There are mats on the sidewalk with baskets full of sticky rice, on top of each basket is a sash. All of a sudden van loads of people arrive they know exactly where to go. I happen to be standing near a spot where someThai tourists have staked their claim, they invite me to join them and before I know it I have a sash too, expertly put on by someone, who equally expertly reclaims it at the end. I have bought some banana leaves filled with sticky rice.
Around 6,20 or so hundreds of monks pass by, the first four get my rice, my neighbor kindly offers to share her basket and we take little pinches of sticky rice to put into their alms bowls. The Thais also put in money and flowers, as do others. Lttle children walking on the side of the monks with baskets where the flowers are put. Others have large plastic bags or baskets where the excess rice goes. The amount of rice given out is staggering, not just by the local population, there are obviously organized tours that partake in this ritual. The tour guides have 4-5 cameras hanging around their necks while the participants of the group give merit, and they take pictures of the process.
I am very puzzled by the amount of rice not kept by the monks, and ask when I get back for breakfast at the hotel. The answer which makes perfect sense is that the rice collected goes to feed many hungry families, only wish I could believe it. One woman whom I asked, said it went to feed animals. All I know is that there was so much sticky rice collected and this is a daily ritual. I was also told that by the fact I had a sash put on I had given merit. Did I feel it was a solemn procession, yes the monks were solemn, but the circus before with all the women vendors and the tour guides taking pictures it seemed more of a commercial enterprise than anything else.
The thought that crossed my mind, while this was going on was that the rice had passed through my hands, the monks hands and possibly other hands as well and yet people were going to be eating it, something really refreshing in that thought.
Flying over the country on our approach to the airport, the country side is so green and verdant, am itching to explore further. After having obtained my visa, Sweden is $4 cheaper than the USA My driver met me. Having decided to splurge I am staying at the Apsara a boutique hotel $70 US/night. The hotel is lovely, location perfect, room is gorgeous with a king size bed, huge bathroom and very thick and soft towels. I feel it may have been a mistake, the other guests are couples, politely say good morning at breakfast, but there is no interaction at all. However I may live to eat those words as my trip through Laos progresses with slow boats and guest houses.
L.P. is a complete shock, I have read numerous descriptions, and nothing prepares me for this small town feeling and look…..am not quite sure if there is anything else like this anywhere else. There are tourists, but not an overwhelming amount, the buildings are low, none above 3 stories, painted mainly white. Most of the signs for restaurants and guest houses are on wooden highly varnished plaques.
The police station is a tiny building in the middle of Sinavangvon Road a.k.a. Main Street. This I walk up and down a few times trying to locate an ATM, the maximum you can withdraw is 70.000 kip (approx $80US) with a service charge of 20.000kip $2.40. Since I left all those crisp dollar bills in Bangkok, to use in Myanmar will have to deal with this in some fashion. Walk down to the night market, there is not much of interest, I buy a couple of shirts, which I had planned to, and go for dinner.
Dinner was at Tamnak Lao, ordered a pork Laab, sticky rice and a Lao Lao which I thought was the local beer. It is not, it is the local moonshine, it reminds me of cheap tequila. Dinner was fair, I felt that there was too much fish sauce in the Laab, but that may be the way the dish should be. Start a conversation with Mike from England via Hawaii, for the last 40 years, he took early retirement, before the company went belly up and is fulfilling his dream of traveling SEA while the wife stays at home teaching. He was a really interesting character, and I enjoyed our conversation. By now it is 10 pm and bedtime, early rising to partake in the alms procession tomorrow.
Wake up 5 am and get up, don’t want to miss a thing here. Am out on the still fairly dark street by 5.30 and it is an amazing sight. There are mats on the sidewalk with baskets full of sticky rice, on top of each basket is a sash. All of a sudden van loads of people arrive they know exactly where to go. I happen to be standing near a spot where someThai tourists have staked their claim, they invite me to join them and before I know it I have a sash too, expertly put on by someone, who equally expertly reclaims it at the end. I have bought some banana leaves filled with sticky rice.
Around 6,20 or so hundreds of monks pass by, the first four get my rice, my neighbor kindly offers to share her basket and we take little pinches of sticky rice to put into their alms bowls. The Thais also put in money and flowers, as do others. Lttle children walking on the side of the monks with baskets where the flowers are put. Others have large plastic bags or baskets where the excess rice goes. The amount of rice given out is staggering, not just by the local population, there are obviously organized tours that partake in this ritual. The tour guides have 4-5 cameras hanging around their necks while the participants of the group give merit, and they take pictures of the process.
I am very puzzled by the amount of rice not kept by the monks, and ask when I get back for breakfast at the hotel. The answer which makes perfect sense is that the rice collected goes to feed many hungry families, only wish I could believe it. One woman whom I asked, said it went to feed animals. All I know is that there was so much sticky rice collected and this is a daily ritual. I was also told that by the fact I had a sash put on I had given merit. Did I feel it was a solemn procession, yes the monks were solemn, but the circus before with all the women vendors and the tour guides taking pictures it seemed more of a commercial enterprise than anything else.
The thought that crossed my mind, while this was going on was that the rice had passed through my hands, the monks hands and possibly other hands as well and yet people were going to be eating it, something really refreshing in that thought.
Oct 14th, 2009, 05:26 AM
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I'm so glad that LP has retained its magic! We loved the place!
The monasteries all over SE Asia are the places that feed and clothe the poor. You may remember during the horrible typhoon in Burma, the people who could congregated at the monasteries and the monks distributed what they had.
I'll be interested in how you feel about the Pak Ou caves. We loved them, but some people find them a disappointment.
The monasteries all over SE Asia are the places that feed and clothe the poor. You may remember during the horrible typhoon in Burma, the people who could congregated at the monasteries and the monks distributed what they had.
I'll be interested in how you feel about the Pak Ou caves. We loved them, but some people find them a disappointment.
Oct 14th, 2009, 05:29 AM
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Thanks for that report, nywoman.
Yes, sadly, the 'tak bat' ritual has become somewhat of a spectacle in the peninsula. If you have a chance, try heading into a more Lao residential neighborhood such as around Vat Mano or Vat That Luang for a different perspective.
Looking forward to more reports. Anyways, enjoy Luang Prabang.
Yes, sadly, the 'tak bat' ritual has become somewhat of a spectacle in the peninsula. If you have a chance, try heading into a more Lao residential neighborhood such as around Vat Mano or Vat That Luang for a different perspective.
Looking forward to more reports. Anyways, enjoy Luang Prabang.
Oct 14th, 2009, 06:11 AM
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Hi Ny. Here I am, hiding in your shoe. Just bum around in town. Slowly, slowly, catchee Luang Prabang. That's basically it. When you get bored go to waterfalls - or not. Don't go up the hill when the tour groups do.
Oct 14th, 2009, 07:36 AM
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I totally agree. LP is unique. Wandering around is a joy. Make sure you try some River Weed. We looked at the Apsara and really liked it. The location is perfect. Let us know how the cooking class went.
Oct 15th, 2009, 04:51 PM
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Return to the hotel for breakfast. The coffee is strong and delicious, I don't even drink coffee, but here I do. Toasted baguettes, served with assorted marmalades and eggs any style you want. I order poached the yolks are deep orange and the flavour like eggs did taste once upon a time.
When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.
Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.
As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.
It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.
Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 yrear old grandmoither who livews in Las Vegas has returned for a few months aqnd these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who weould have thought that Chanterelles were available here.
Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great.
When we went to the market with the cooking instructor he told us that eggs with a number written on them contained embryos, the higher the number the more developed they were. A very popular item to eat apparently, well the eggs at the Apsara were not numbered. Now I am ready for the market hail a tuk-tuk and go to Phousi market. It is large, the guidebook claims that it is a fantastic place to pick up silk garments. Am not sure which part the writer went to I saw quite a few of the silk blouses that are worn with Longi, but nothing else. I do end up with a purchase a card reader for $3, had left mine in Bangkok.. Not even the food part of the market was that appealing, except I ran into a group that was there on a tour from a cooking school, the guide was impressive.
Grab another Tuk-tuk back to town and walk through the Royal Palace museum, see the Pra Bang Buddah for which the city is named. The Royal quarters, and contemplate the sad fate that befell them when the communists took over. There is a very interesting photo exhibit in another building, taken of monks during two different time periods, learning how to meditate. Apparently the monks here have never learnt this. I find it intriguing and puzzling since I thought that meditation was one of the fundamentals of Buddhism.
As I leave the grounds walking down towards the Mekong I pass a shop that specializes in local handicrafts, while browsing I run into a fellow passenger from the plane. Jean an elderly Australian painter and sculptor. We end up going to The Tamarind for a laotian lunch. We both order the 5 bite plate and I have a lime-lemongrass lemonade. The plate consists of a green vegetable, fermented bamboo shoots, Luang Prabang suasage, Buffalo jerky and 3 different kinds of lettuce leaf wraps. It is a perfect lunch for $5. I also while there sign up for the cooking class next day.
It is hot, very hot and I am looking forward to the afternoons trip to the water fall. The cost is $5 and if I understood it correctly the hotel wanted $25. We arrive and I walk in past the gate where the tickets are sold, marveling at how cheap this trip was. The ticket to see the falls is 20.000 kip and the entire trip cost 45.000 kip. 25.000 for the transpoirt a real bargain. Walk up past the rescued bears, past several swimming holes, but since my sense of balance is a little off am not able to go swimming, the stones are too slippery, I tried to go in but couldn't. Instead walk up to the top. It is a nice waterfall, run into my Thai friends who insist of more pictures with me. When I finally get back to where we are to meet the car, I mention to one of the fellow passengers what a bargain this was and am informed that I was supposed to have paid the entrance fee. I didn't know that. and had not been informed and since I wasn't stopped I didn't do it. It was a real bargain after all.
Take a walk down the street and see a most elaborate set-up, with a lot of money trees and what looks like a huge celebration of sorts about to happen. It turns out that the 84 yrear old grandmoither who livews in Las Vegas has returned for a few months aqnd these are all offerings to various temples. This explains the duplication of bedding, coffeemakers etc. Very beautiful setup, and the food looks yummy. Who weould have thought that Chanterelles were available here.
Catch up on the internet, talk to some of the fellow hotel guests and realise how much I like this place. Go to the restaurant around the corner on Hanuman's suggestion and have "barbecue" the Lao term for hot pot. It was good not great.
Oct 16th, 2009, 03:29 AM
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The first afternoon after I had arrived in L.P. I checked out a few cooking schools. None which sounded too appealing. I had run into Joy at the market as he was taking students around, had also read about the Tamarind classes. It really was a no brainer, we met at the Tamarind restaurant all in all there were 9 of us. First we went to the Phoisy market where Joy, that was his name, explained different ingredients as well as showing us different meats including dried rodent.
After the market we were taken to the place where the classes were held. It was in a very lovely open space, surrounded by fishponds and vegetable garden. We were given, aprons and assigned out own work stations. Joy, was not only the guide but also the instructor. First we made sticky rice and steamed it in bamboo baskets, then a dip, we had a choice of tomato or eggplant. Then we marinated fish, and steamed it in banana leaves, stuffed lemongrass and made a stew, The finale was sticky rice with coconut milk and fruits. The class cost $28 and was worth every penny and more. The instruction was very professional, the setting equally so, there were assistants, picking up dirty utensils and replacing them constantly. One could see that a lot of thought and effort had gone into this endeavor. The class ended around 3 pm. We were then handed recipes and ingredient lists.
On the way back to The Aspara I stopped by my trusted travel agency to enquire about transportation to Nong Khiaw.. Had decided earlier that rather than taking the slow boat, past apparently not very interesting sights, I would take a bus or a van, then continue up river. Booked a mini van for 8.30 the following morning cost $12. Mission accomplished I proceeded to see the Wat Xieng Thong a very impressive series of chapels. The main temple is dominated by a huge golden Buddah and beautifully decorated golden figures painted on the black walls. The Wat overlooks the Mekong and as I am admiring the view a young couple ask me for the time. We strike up a conversation, am completely unable to fugure out their accents, finally I ask, the reply “Swedish” well you could have knocked me over with a feather. It turns out they are both Croatian, he came to Sweden as a very young child she only arrived 9 years ago. As we were having a conversation a monk comes by and offers us to come and pray with the monks. We accept the offer, but remain in the rear of the temple. The chanting is lovely, it reminds me of an experience I had in Paris many years ago, attending matins, at a monastery with really beautiful singing. We leave in the middle and start walking back to my hotel, as we pass the various wats, singing or is it chanting is heard in the dusk. Totally magical.
As I walked around L.P. I realise how many shades of white the buildings are as well as pale ochre and deeper shades as well. Some buildings are dark wood with painted doors and window covers. It is so hard to think of this a city when it is more of a place totally unique unto itself.
After the market we were taken to the place where the classes were held. It was in a very lovely open space, surrounded by fishponds and vegetable garden. We were given, aprons and assigned out own work stations. Joy, was not only the guide but also the instructor. First we made sticky rice and steamed it in bamboo baskets, then a dip, we had a choice of tomato or eggplant. Then we marinated fish, and steamed it in banana leaves, stuffed lemongrass and made a stew, The finale was sticky rice with coconut milk and fruits. The class cost $28 and was worth every penny and more. The instruction was very professional, the setting equally so, there were assistants, picking up dirty utensils and replacing them constantly. One could see that a lot of thought and effort had gone into this endeavor. The class ended around 3 pm. We were then handed recipes and ingredient lists.
On the way back to The Aspara I stopped by my trusted travel agency to enquire about transportation to Nong Khiaw.. Had decided earlier that rather than taking the slow boat, past apparently not very interesting sights, I would take a bus or a van, then continue up river. Booked a mini van for 8.30 the following morning cost $12. Mission accomplished I proceeded to see the Wat Xieng Thong a very impressive series of chapels. The main temple is dominated by a huge golden Buddah and beautifully decorated golden figures painted on the black walls. The Wat overlooks the Mekong and as I am admiring the view a young couple ask me for the time. We strike up a conversation, am completely unable to fugure out their accents, finally I ask, the reply “Swedish” well you could have knocked me over with a feather. It turns out they are both Croatian, he came to Sweden as a very young child she only arrived 9 years ago. As we were having a conversation a monk comes by and offers us to come and pray with the monks. We accept the offer, but remain in the rear of the temple. The chanting is lovely, it reminds me of an experience I had in Paris many years ago, attending matins, at a monastery with really beautiful singing. We leave in the middle and start walking back to my hotel, as we pass the various wats, singing or is it chanting is heard in the dusk. Totally magical.
As I walked around L.P. I realise how many shades of white the buildings are as well as pale ochre and deeper shades as well. Some buildings are dark wood with painted doors and window covers. It is so hard to think of this a city when it is more of a place totally unique unto itself.
Oct 17th, 2009, 05:30 PM
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Glad that you enjoyed the cooking classes at Tamarind. As far as the food is concerned, it is the sort of restaurant you can find in many western countries, serving Laos food "tuned down" for western palates. That's fine if you enjoy it, and many westerners do, but just be aware that you are not eating real Lao food. Those of us who live here have grown accustomed to authentic food; my wife, (Lao), won't have a bar of Tamarind any more. Tamnak Lao is authentic on the other hand.
If you want great western food, I suggest you try L'Elephant.
If you want great western food, I suggest you try L'Elephant.
Oct 19th, 2009, 02:32 AM
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October 19
Am writing this while cruising up the Nam Ou river towards Muang Khua. The magic just seems to continue. After having decided to take a mini van to Nong Khiaw instead of the boat from L.P., a decision I was grateful for having made.
On the trip up I met 3 French-Swiss people who were a complete delight. We all ended up staying at the Riverside, which was just across the bridge after the van dropped us off. My bungalow overlooked Nam Ou and cost 150.00 kip or $36 for the night breakfast included. We all had dinner there since it is considered the best in Nong Khiaw, and I think we could have stayed up all night talking. The subjects we covered were, operas and singers, that one was natural since one of the men is an opera journalist, philosphy took up a large part of the evening. Since all 3 had been to Myanmar several times, oppression and how people survive, were another of the subjects covered . It was one of those meetings you know was not a total coincidence.
As usual I had gone to the market which really only consisted of a few vendors, a few of them sold something very interesting, it was a black octagon shaped hard fruit that when smacked together yielded very delicious nut kernels. The village appears poor but had a lot of TV disks. After another delightful breakfast we parted ways and I continued upriver to Muang Ngoi for 1 hour boat ride.
On this journey I was accomapnied by 3 French-Canadian girls and an Italian-Swiss man. We all stayed at the same guesthouse just up from the boatlanding. Am a little confused of the name, my spacious room with bathroom and cold water shower was 50.000 kip or $6.
After lunch the girls asked if I wanted to join them on a trip to the waterfall. Like a fool I said, yes of course. The tour operator told me that it was 1 hour walk over flat ground but the actual falls were going to be hard climbing. As I rationalized it, was that I didn't have to climb the falls but could stay at the bottom. First of all there is a saying thar only mad fools and Englishmen venture out in midday heat. Since I am not English you all know what that makes me. We go down river by boat for about ½ hour and the the fun begins. Climbing up from the river is very difficult since there are no steps, just a slippery steep river bank. We arrive in a village where we pay the customary fee of 5.000 kip or 60 cents. Ton our guid carves me a bamboo walking stick and off we go. Through rice fields up and down bamboo stiles, which are built to keep the buffalo away, through densely wooded areas, on extremely narrow footpaths, across streams and muddy areas. Ton keeps on picking leeches off me, and it never ends. Fortunately he has a very strong arm for me to lean on. Finally I have had enough and say stop, my knee is throbbing and I end up sitting in a brook on a stone with water trickling down. It is totally delightful, butterflies and dragon flies surround me and I am enchanted. Thyis is a country full of beautiful butterflies.
By the time we get back to the boat I am so upset with myself, how clumsy I have become, and the way my body fails me, how my sense of balance is off , try to comfort myself that at least I am walking and still able to do a lot. My travel companions and I end up having dinner at Ning Ning during the 3 hours of electricity the village receives every night. My Tom Yau soup with chicken and 2 Beer Lao came to $3.60.
One would think that a river journey could be quite monotonous. Going up the Nam Ou is any thing but. We stop on a sandy stretch where little boys have been fishing and they sell their catch to our captain. Two very large catfish and a few smaller ones for 10.000kip or $1.20. Two teen age monks are sitting there watching the transactions. Where do they come from and where are they going? There is nobody to ask, enough to enjoy the scene. A little later on a what appears to be a very desolate stretch, a man hails the boat, a conversation ensues, I hear the word kip several times and equally suddenly we leave him and continue up river. We pass the occasional village a few fishermen, and all the time this glorious lush landscape with the mountains in the background and the hills on either side of the river. The vegetation seems to change as we get further north but am unable to define what seems different.
At a later point we stop again this time to pick up lumber. There are about 8 small children romping about completely naked in the water, until they see us and rush to put on clothing. They were completely enchanting and loved the pictures I took of them.
We are finally on our way and after about 5 hours on the river we arrive in Muang Khua where I will only spend the night before I go on to Luang Namtha. Where I am now, the last two villages only had electricity 3 hours each night and no internet of course. Was most grateful for my head lantern.
All I know is that this is a wonderful moment in time.
Am writing this while cruising up the Nam Ou river towards Muang Khua. The magic just seems to continue. After having decided to take a mini van to Nong Khiaw instead of the boat from L.P., a decision I was grateful for having made.
On the trip up I met 3 French-Swiss people who were a complete delight. We all ended up staying at the Riverside, which was just across the bridge after the van dropped us off. My bungalow overlooked Nam Ou and cost 150.00 kip or $36 for the night breakfast included. We all had dinner there since it is considered the best in Nong Khiaw, and I think we could have stayed up all night talking. The subjects we covered were, operas and singers, that one was natural since one of the men is an opera journalist, philosphy took up a large part of the evening. Since all 3 had been to Myanmar several times, oppression and how people survive, were another of the subjects covered . It was one of those meetings you know was not a total coincidence.
As usual I had gone to the market which really only consisted of a few vendors, a few of them sold something very interesting, it was a black octagon shaped hard fruit that when smacked together yielded very delicious nut kernels. The village appears poor but had a lot of TV disks. After another delightful breakfast we parted ways and I continued upriver to Muang Ngoi for 1 hour boat ride.
On this journey I was accomapnied by 3 French-Canadian girls and an Italian-Swiss man. We all stayed at the same guesthouse just up from the boatlanding. Am a little confused of the name, my spacious room with bathroom and cold water shower was 50.000 kip or $6.
After lunch the girls asked if I wanted to join them on a trip to the waterfall. Like a fool I said, yes of course. The tour operator told me that it was 1 hour walk over flat ground but the actual falls were going to be hard climbing. As I rationalized it, was that I didn't have to climb the falls but could stay at the bottom. First of all there is a saying thar only mad fools and Englishmen venture out in midday heat. Since I am not English you all know what that makes me. We go down river by boat for about ½ hour and the the fun begins. Climbing up from the river is very difficult since there are no steps, just a slippery steep river bank. We arrive in a village where we pay the customary fee of 5.000 kip or 60 cents. Ton our guid carves me a bamboo walking stick and off we go. Through rice fields up and down bamboo stiles, which are built to keep the buffalo away, through densely wooded areas, on extremely narrow footpaths, across streams and muddy areas. Ton keeps on picking leeches off me, and it never ends. Fortunately he has a very strong arm for me to lean on. Finally I have had enough and say stop, my knee is throbbing and I end up sitting in a brook on a stone with water trickling down. It is totally delightful, butterflies and dragon flies surround me and I am enchanted. Thyis is a country full of beautiful butterflies.
By the time we get back to the boat I am so upset with myself, how clumsy I have become, and the way my body fails me, how my sense of balance is off , try to comfort myself that at least I am walking and still able to do a lot. My travel companions and I end up having dinner at Ning Ning during the 3 hours of electricity the village receives every night. My Tom Yau soup with chicken and 2 Beer Lao came to $3.60.
One would think that a river journey could be quite monotonous. Going up the Nam Ou is any thing but. We stop on a sandy stretch where little boys have been fishing and they sell their catch to our captain. Two very large catfish and a few smaller ones for 10.000kip or $1.20. Two teen age monks are sitting there watching the transactions. Where do they come from and where are they going? There is nobody to ask, enough to enjoy the scene. A little later on a what appears to be a very desolate stretch, a man hails the boat, a conversation ensues, I hear the word kip several times and equally suddenly we leave him and continue up river. We pass the occasional village a few fishermen, and all the time this glorious lush landscape with the mountains in the background and the hills on either side of the river. The vegetation seems to change as we get further north but am unable to define what seems different.
At a later point we stop again this time to pick up lumber. There are about 8 small children romping about completely naked in the water, until they see us and rush to put on clothing. They were completely enchanting and loved the pictures I took of them.
We are finally on our way and after about 5 hours on the river we arrive in Muang Khua where I will only spend the night before I go on to Luang Namtha. Where I am now, the last two villages only had electricity 3 hours each night and no internet of course. Was most grateful for my head lantern.
All I know is that this is a wonderful moment in time.
