It seems like I just posted that last trip report and we are going again. We have booked the first 2 weeks of July in Hanoi. As we will be travelling with our teenaged granddaughter, we have decided to take the "tourist" trips we didn't do last time. So any advice on Sapa? Is there a better alternative destination to see terraced mountains and experience tribal life? We'll also visit Halong Bay. I see aside from the standard boat/island tours, there is an option to go by public bus to Haiphong and fast ferry out to Cat Ba. One of the many island resorts (Sandy Beach Resort on Nam Cat island) offers an option of then taking a taxi to Beo Harbor and then they would transport you the harbor to their resort by boat. They also offer various tours which I have copied and pasted in this question. While more commute hassle, it seems like it would be much cheaper than taking a package tour and staying one night on a junk. And a couple or three nights on an island without having to pack up sounds somewhat appealing. Any and all advice appreciated.

" Do kayaking
Go fishing (USD 20/ by boat and fishing rod) – 3 hours.
Go Viet Hai village, cycling there (USD 20/ by boat), free byke to ride. (3-6 hours)
Private Boat trip to visit Halong Bay (Sungsot cave, Vangia floating village) – USD 45/ per (mininum 2 persons) (6-8 hours) (Includes : private boat, entrance fees, Lunch).

Please contact us to book in advance.
Rate can be higher or not to be available if booking at the resort.
If you need a local guide going with you, please pay extra USD 20/ half day or USD 35/ full day."

I think I would seek help from a Hanoi agency like Tonkin travel for suggestions.

riding a bike in july in asia???

I would suggest arriving or leaving sapa on a Sunday, going to the bac ha market on that day. It probably would work best to arrive by train and arrange to go directly to the Sunday market prior to going to sapa. That way you will arrive early enough to see the animal market as well. This market is a photographer's dream.

you spot the best places in north I think. try trekking travel agency for more options

Alternatives to Sapa would be Mai Chau, about 4 hours from Hanoi or Ninh Binh, sometimes described as Halong Bay on land. Been to Mai Chau and loved it some photos here

http://www.travelpod.com/travel-blog...ai/3/tpod.html

haven't been to Ninh Binh yet but will be there next month so will report back then.

A few years since we were in Sapa but I understand that it has got very busy there. The new ski lift up mount Fansipan is unlikely to improve matters. Once there it is easy to arrange Hmong guides for trekking on the pot from any of the guest houses. Just make sure you know what you are paying for.

Forgot to add that I just got emailed this article from Travelfish on DIY Halong Bay which may have some useful pointers
http://www.travelfish.org/feature/361

Thanks to everyone for the responses, especially dgunbug for the reminder about the Sunday market, and Crellston for the link to the Travelfish article. btw- we've did a Halong Bay On Land tour - all locals. Wish we'd been able to stay and see more of the Ninh Binh area. You might want to look at my Trip Report Vietnam Part 2 done under another moniker to get a heads up for what to expect on the lake tour (not meant as a discouragement)
http://www.fodors.com/community/asia...s-in-hanoi.cfm

Thanks for the link and the heads up Ellis. I had heard of some of the practices in Tam Coc and that did indeed put me off staying there. A vietnamese friend had advised against staying there so we will base ourselves in NB for a few days and venture out from there before taking a motorcycle trip from NB to Mai Chau via Pu Long or Cuc Phong National Park. At least thatvis the plan. If it works out tha way I will be v. Surprised

We talked to a guy near the lake in NB who had been trekking and moto-cycling and he was having a great time. Just be aware that if you want to be the driver, you need to be licensed to be legal. I think it's a fairly straightforward thing, but it's regional, so check with the area authorities. I put word out to our friend in Hanoi to ask if he remembers the outstanding restaurant we went to for lunch. Will post that if it becomes available.

I believe Vietnam is totally unified; no North VN and South VN. Your headline seems to indicate that you think Vietnam is a divided land, like the Koreas. Of course, northern VN is dominated by Hanoi, and southern VN by HoChiMinh city (aka Saigon. VN remains a fully communist land with the resulting repressions, corruption and all powerful elite class. VN, like the big brother China, welcomes western cash, but not western ideals.

Whoa! That went political fast! I was speaking geographically, not politically. Not even going there on the politics, but hope you keep some perspective when you travel.