Hey everyone,

So we are about to plan a trip to India from Dec 21 through Jan 16.

A bit of a background about us - I grew up in India but my partner is not Indian. We have been to India together twice before for relatively short trips, both times for weddings so neither trip was oriented towards traveling the country. My partner hasn't really liked India so far. We are hoping our next trip will be geared completely towards experiencing and enjoying everything that India has to offer.
We are in our early 30s, outdoorsy but love cities, like art, architecture, and good food, and have traveled a fair bit.

We are thinking about flying in to Delhi (to see my close relatives for 3,4 days) and a bit of sightseeing. Any suggestions on what is not to be missed in Delhi?

Then we could go to Agra, followed by Rajasthan - Jaipur, Jodhpur etc.

Is Goa still worth visiting? Growing up in India I did enjoy the Goan beaches in the late 80s, early 90s but from what I've heard recently, it's all very commercial. Can anyone share any objective opinions about Goa?
How does Goa compare to, say, other beaches in Southern India?

Other areas of interest are nightlife in Bombay, the Ajanta & Ellora caves, and perhaps some ancient temples. Any recommendations on temples that shouldn't be missed, from an architectural viewpoint?

Any thoughts on the Himalayan foothills (Himachal Pradesh) or recommendations re: the north eastern part of the country will be appreciated as well.

Thanks,
d

What part of India have you seen? If its northern then go south, to Kerala. I have been to northern India 5 times and I must say Kerala looks like a refreshing change to me.
As for Delhi I recommend:
1. Lotus temple
2. Jama Masjid
3. Indira Ghandis home, now a shrine to her.
4. Qtab Minar
5. Red Fort.
6. Shopping at Connaught Place.
7. If you are male and if it suits you (no pun intended get some tailor made clothes in Delhi or elsewhere in India. They can be had for a fraction of the cost there vs. the US.

You will see lots of great India tips if you search the board, but if you have 3 weeks there, you should definitely make it to Varanasi and you should see a tiger somewhere.

There is a wonderful country manor in Himachal Pradesh, called 'The Judge's Court see http://judgescourt.com/
A very un-commercial place with the Kangra valley and Dharamshala not tpoo far away. There is a night train to close-by at Una from Delhi. two or three days there would be rewarding

For Delhi, add Humayun's Tomb, Raj Ghat and the India Gate. Definitely visit Agra, and I agree with Wayne you should try to make it to Varanasi, and if so stay in the old section on the river.

Rajasthan - I particularly liked Jaisalmer, but it is the furthest to get to. Also consider visiting the painted houses in the Shekhawati region north of Jaipur.

Goa - I was there in early December and it was just gearing up for the busy season. I think it sees a lot of package tourists, along with left-over hippies. Unless you're especially fond of beaches I'd save it for another trip, but if you go, try to avoid the party beaches (should be listed in your guide book). I stayed at Sterling Vagator, which seemed to be mostly Indian guests, on a quiet beach. Flaky AC, though. Also, spend a little time in Panaji/Panjim, the capital, and visit Old Goa. I stayed at http://www.panjiminn.com/, first at the Inn and then at the Posada and enjoyed both, although they're not luxury hotels. But avoid Panaji on a Sunday - it's dead.


In the north-east I loved riding the "toy" train up to Darjeeling. I also liked Orissa, which isn't very touristed. I couldn't visit the Jagannath Mandir in Puri, because I'm not a Hindu, but the Kornak sun temple is great. Not sure you have enough time to do both the northeast and northwest, though.

Any particular reason your partner hasn't liked India?

I found Old Delhi to be the highlight of my time in Delhi--that's the area around the big mosque [which is also a not-to-miss site.] When exploring Old Delhi, there's a small Jain temple you may stumble on that's really lovely.

Quick one - assume you are planning for this year. You need to decide and book quickly as Dec-Jan is peak season for India. I'd suggest you focus on north India this trip. So you could land in Delhi, go to Agra, Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Udaipur, Varanasi (if you would llike to see the seat of Hinduism) Ranthambore (if safaris interest you). Instead of Ajanta Eloora I feel Khajuraho fits this plan better. If you really want to go to either the north suggest Himachal Pradesh as it has some gorgeous hotels and settings - Judge's Court, Kamatiya Sangam - take a look at www.heirtagehotels.com for some ideas. I'd leave the north east out of this one as its nt worth doign for less then a week, travel time is long.

Add the 'Akshardham' in Delhi as well - it's stunning.

Since you have only about 3 weeks, and that too you have to visit your relatives, sugegst you to stick to your travels to Delhi and Rajasthan, and Himachal Pradesh.
Alternatively after visiting yourr elatives, head towards south.. Kerala if you love beaches and wish to economise.

Z_n_d, if you are really looking to impress your partner about the beauty of India, I would suggest Kerala. While I would say India is one of the most incredible countries and so much to offer from North to South, East to West, Kerala has a special place in my heart. We visited this past Feb, and it met and beat all my expectations. We stayed the Kumarakom Lake Resort, and I would highly recommend it, and taking their house boat for one night. I've never seen so many palm trees in my life, the backwaters are beautiful and driving through Kerala is stunning. Hope you enjoy whatever you end up choosing!

Thanks everyone for your suggestions.

thursdaysd, any hotel recommendations for Varanasi? Do you mind sharing what is it that you liked most about Varanasi?

Taia, did you go to any of the beaches in Kerala? How long did you stay at the resort and how was the food?

Cheers,
d

znd - Varanasi - it's difficult to put into words why I loved Varanasi, because it was the atmosphere as much as anything physical. I felt that this was an incredibly old, and incredibly spiritual, place, full of fascinating people. It was also interesting to explore, at least in the narrow passageways of the old town on the river, where I stayed. The river, I have to say, is horribly polluted up close, but beautiful at a distance. Definitely take a dawn cruise. Plan to eat dinner overlooking the river. Watch the evening prayer ceremony at the main ghat. I also made a day trip to Sarnath, where the Buddha preached his first sermon, and where there is a memorial stupa and a museum - and deer in the Deer Park.

I stayed at the Hotel Alka (members.tripod.com/~hotelalka/index.html), but this is definitely a budget/backpacker place. If you don't mind that the location is great, with a terrace overlooking the river and the main ghat. I see that specialplacestostay.com lists a couple of places overlooking the river - I would definitely recommend staying in the old town.

After having looked at our travel guides a bit more, this is what we've come up with:

NYC->Delhi: Arrive 11PM on 12/24,
Delhi: 24, 25, 26, 27, 28

Delhi->Udaipur or Delhi->Jodhpur (fly) 29, 30, 31, 01, 02, 03
Udaipur->Ranakpur->Kumbhalgarh->Jodhpur->Jaisalmer->(Pushkar)->Jaipur

Jaipur -> Agra (car preferably, train otherwise): 04 (Taj Mahal is closed on Fridays) see Fatehpur Sikri, sidetrip

Agra -> Khajuraho (fly, 35 mins) on the 05: overnight in Orchha
Khajuraho-> Madurai (fly) via Delhi 06, 07

Madurai-> Mahabalipuram (fly) via Chennai 08, 09, 10

Chennai -> Goa (fly) 11, 12, 13, 14

Goa-> Bombay (fly) 15
Bombay -> Aurangabad (fly) Ajanta/Ellora 16

Aurangabad -> Bombay (fly) 17, 18

Bombay -> NYC 01/19 or 20th

Is this too much traveling, seems like too many flights. Anyway, all comments/suggestions are welcome.

d

Travel first class on trains (Was 3x second class when I was there). It may be cheaper to get a monthly pass from Delhi railway station if you are going to do a lot of travelling. Get your wife to queue for the ticket as women walk to the front of the queue. I travelled overnight and went sightseeing by day. Goa beaches weren't bad but I thought Kerala beaches poor by comparison.


I would say get yourself a Lonely Planet guide to India and a good map. There are an awful lots of good things to see in India which you can miss without the necessary information. In Jaipur, don't buy any precious stones unless you know what you are doing as there are fakes and fiddlers.


I lived Varanasi city but not the people so much. The only place in India where I had something stolen. An early morning tour is good. When I went many years ago, it was misty and as we got on the bus, the rats got off (I kid you not).


Rail museum in Delhi. Film studios and aquarium in Bombay (try the milk shake stall near the Gateway to India there. So many temples and sights in India). No offence meant to your people, in the zoos, I found watching the people as interesting as watching the animals.


From big cities, there are often tours you can go on and see the city as well as surrounding places. Check them out.

I agree with Hobbes.
Like his itinerary.
I would skip Goa, and go further north in Rajasthan.
Jaisalmer is magical.
Picture ads for Lawrence of Arabia, but much more beautiful.
We've been to India more than a dozen times.
Our business takes us to bangalore - boring, except for the Oberoi Hotel which we love, and its' proximity to Mysore..
We took our daughter then teenage daughter to India about 10 years ago, and for her first trip we took the "Palace on Wheels"(not recommended), Delhi to Agra to Rajasthan.
It was our first trip into Rajasthan, and in Jaipur, I knew that I was indeed in India.
The city is like one big beautiful colourful canvas.
It is the most "Indian" of all.

Seems to me that you might be trying to do a little too much in too little time. In my opinion, you should concentrate on North India more, and perhaps leave out Madurai/ Mahabalipuram/Chennai from this trip.

Spend the first 2 weeks in Delhi/Rajasthan/Agra with Khajuraho thrown in, then for the next 1.5 weeks fly to Goa (via Delhi) for a few days (beaches and relaxation), onward to Mumbai (shopping and nightlife) and fly out.

If you're up to it, you could add the flight to Aurangabad from Mumbai for the Ajanta and Ellora caves, but even that might be a bit much in my opinion.

Thanks everyone for your feedback. But my husband and I have decided to cancel our trip to India at this time. The costs of flights, hotels, are just too astronomical for us to justify this trip. When we went to India 3 years ago in November prices hotel prices were 60% less than what they are now. And frankly paying $350 plus for a hotel in India when there are people living in shacks across the street is ridiculous, and to some degree unethical. I think if we do go in the future it will be at the end of winter or the spring, and we will probably cut out southern indian and goa, and instead do some hiking in the lower himalayas.

Thanks again, and if anyone has any suggestions for less expensive travel abroad around christmas we would love to hear them. Countries that both my husband and I have loved in the past are....Brazil, Japan, France, Iceland, and New Zealand.

Z

I'm sorry you decided to cancel your trip. There are hotels in the $100.00 range (interesting heritage hotels, tented luxary camps, etc). However, if you're already set on another destination, how about Argentina? Although the airfare may be a bit high that time of year and hotel prices are moderate, you will otherwise live like royalty once there. Eating out and shopping is super cheap. Buenos Aires is like a mix of New York and Paris. Beyond B.A. it gets even cheaper for hotels and there are beaches, mountains and great wine regions. You can hop over to Uruguay by boat for the day or longer

Thanks landini for the suggestion. We actually visited Argentina along with Brazil a few years ago. Buenos Aires was fabulous...and we really liked it. Unfortunately we didn't see too much else of the rest of the country with the exception of Iguazu falls...But we definately want to go back one day.

I think we are now leaning on going to Egypt.

turkey is also an interesting destination as is germany at christmas time....