Paulchili

I have just returned from a 2 month trip to S E Asia, China and some other nearby places and would love to share my experiences. However, the trip was quite extensive and it would take a short novel to cover it all. Instead I will list my itinerary, my hilights and will be glad to answer any questions anyone may have regarding the places we visited.
We traveled the months of February & March. Flew to Bangkok ( overnight only) then to Chiang Mai for a few days, followed by Phuket for some R&R. After that we started a 14 day Indochina tour for us 2 ( arranged on the net) that visited Luang Prabang, Vientiane, Hanoi, Halong Bay, Hue, Hoian, Saigon & the Mekong delta. From Vietnam we flew to Angkor Wat and finished in Phnom Penh. From there we went to Guilin for 3 days, taking the Li river cruise & went to Longsheng minority area. Then we started our 3rd arranged tour ( for us 2 only) which started in Shanghai, continuing to Suzhou, Tongli, Hangzhou; then a Yangtze river cruise, Xian and a few days in Beijing. From Beijing ( actually Tianjin) we boarded an Oceania cruise that visited Soeul, Shanghai, Hiroshima, Kobe (Kyoto & Osaka), Okinawa, Taipei and ended in Hong Kong. We spend a few days there and flew home.
The entire rip was fantastic ( one of the best we've ever taken) but some of the memories stand out above others. They include Luang Prabang, Hanoi & Halong Bay, Hue & Hoian, Angkor Wat ( even though it changed from 10 years we were there last) Guilin ( especially the terraced rice fields at Longji), Suzhou & Xian. That does not diminish places like Shanghai, Beijing, Hong Kong, except that we've visited them before and thus it wasn't the same. We were amazed at the changes in these cities ( esp. Shanghai) since we were there last in 1985. The places in Japan stand on their own as they are very different from China and Indochina. The museums in Shanghai & Taipei are among the 10 best in the world in my opinion.
This was a fantastic trip and I would love to share my experiences in each specific place if anyone has some questions.

tower

Hi Paul: Your two-month odyssey sounds great! We just returned from 25 days, independent travel (Beijing, Xian, Guilin, Shanghai...all first visits since 1984)..also Tokyo, Kyoto and Beppu in Japan.

Happy to see that you visited Longi and the terraced rice fields. This, too, was one of our highlights. We also saw the spectacular night light show in Yangshuo which we enthusiastically recommend.

Did you find the general demeanor and mindset of the Chinese to be lightyears apart from 1985? We did, especially in BJ and Shanghai...seems like the free market economy and associated proseprity has allowed greed and obnoxious manners to enter the fray. Nonetheless, a very enjoyable re-visit.

We met up with EKSCRUNCHY in Shanghai for a delightful time, also. We stayed next door to the Le Mer. at the very comfortable Ramada Plaza for $110...just want other posters to know that lesser rates with very little loss in service and ambience are certainly available if they wish.

By the way, we had an excellent guide service in Guilin and he included the Li cruise, the night show and the Longhsen/Longji region, with good driver and assistant who spoke very good English.

It was great to revsit Japan, also, for the first time in 60 years.

Stu T.

Shanghainese

What a fantastic experience you had! And I'm so envious that's it is 2 months. It must be eye-opening to see the enormous changes in China since your last visit.

Johnmango may be coming to the bay area early September, I'd like to join your gtg.

Tower: I couldn't agree more about your comment on people's demeanor, guess it comes with free market econ. For the Olympics, BJ is starting a campaign on manners, don't think it will change the mindset.

Let us know when you are coming north.

Paulchili

Tower - it's like visiting a different planet, not just a different country. Traffic was terrible then but it was mostly bicycles. Now with all the cars it's horrifying. Everytime we drove anywhere I was on edge - I guess they know what they are doing. I am happy for the people in general - I think they have a better life and chances for even better future.
Shanghainese - my gtg with Johnmango is tentative only as we both leave SF on Sept 6th. That would only leave Wed Sept 5th evening - stil possible. We'd love to have you join us. We'll firm it up after his return.

tower

Hi again Paul...yes, the driving was scary, especially with the Beijing and Shanghai taxis trying to plow down everyone in the pedesrian crossing lanes...but even more terrifying was trying to cross streets in both cities...stepping off the curb was a death-defying adventure! The incessant mean horn blowing was annoying and stressful, too. However, we had a great, interesting, provocative, and educational journey. Which did I like better? 1984, by far.

In Xian and Guilin, this was all much more calm and mild. You're right, in the long run this move toward prosperity may prove to be for the betterment of Chinese society overall.

Hope so...but meanwhile, I shudder to think of the thousands of Olympians and other foreign visitors coming to the 2008 games...I predict it will be near- disasterous in Beijing at that time.Ugh!
Stu T.

Paulchili

Stu, I'll be watching the olympics on TV (thankfully). I too have fonder memories from 1985 - maybe because it was all so new to me ( or because I am getting older and more sentimental). That is not to say we did not have a great trip this time around.

Johnmango

Hello
We are on our last day in Shanghai and will fly to Hong Kong tomorrow.

One thing about drivers in Shanghai - want to add my 2-cents worth - we also had a driver in Huangshan Yellow Mountain, and came to realize that the horn blowing is also a courtesy gesture: to let cars in front of you know that you are passing them, and/or let the pedestrian walking (many country roads do not have sidewalks) that here is a car coming. Of course I am talking about driving outside Shanghai. But I believe the purpose is similar here: not honking to blow off steam - but to warn other drivers, especially here many cars do not stay within the lanes!!! We've been here for a week and I have yet to see anyone yelling or making the finger salute to other drivers like we do here in Canada.

Paulchili

Hello John,
I can't believe your long awaited trip is almost over. It always goes like that. As long as you had a good time.
I am anxious to hear all about it.
Paul

althom1122

Did you stay overnight at Longsheng? Can it be done in a daytrip from Guilin? I definitely want to go there on my China trip (not till 08 unfortunately!) and was wondering how much time we'd need to devote. Thanks.
Karen

Paulchili

Karen, it is a day trip from Guilin. No need to stay overnight. On the way there we stopped in one of the villages where the Yao women showed us their long hair and we took pictures with them ( for a buck or two, of course -well worth it). They were nice & friendly people. The scenery along the way is fascinating, but the terraces are the main attraction. Make sure go go ALL the way up for the best view. We stopped for lunch in a village on the way back. Great trip!

boyker

Paulchili-
I leave for Beijing, Yanghuo and Shanghai next week.
Is the sound/light show in Yangshuo being presented yet?

Also, I would like to see Suzhou and overnight in Tongli if we can find a guide and driver before we leave (need to do this directly from Shanghai airport due to business obligations).

How was the pollution? This is my first trip to China and I am very excited. The Fodorites on this web site have given me the courage to travel independently.

Paulchili

Boyker- I don't know about the light show in Yangshuo ( we stayed in Guilin and had a very nice night boat ride on canals with "Disneyland" like scenery all lit up)
Overnight in Suzhou ( not Tongli - it's a very small town). I would recommend Sheraton in Suzhou. You'll need more time for Suzhou than Tongli. You can stop in Tongli on the way back to Shanghai.
Have you followed Escrunchy's thread on :
Asia: Back from 21 Superb Days in Seoul, Beijing, Shanghai
She has a name of a driver in Shanghai. I am not sure he would do overnight trips.
Contact China Odyssey at:
http://www.chinaodysseytours.com/ or China highlights.com for tours. I am sure they can pik you up at the airport as easily as a hotel.

tower

Boyker:

The night light show in Yangshuo is spectacular...don't miss it. We went three weeks ago. We have seen a few other light shows around the world, but this one stands alone...I have a few dramatic pix ...write me and I'll send them along if you wish, along with others of the areas you will be visiting. If I knew how to link them I would..but I don't.

Stu T. ([email protected])

Johnmango

Hello Paul:

Just arrived in Hong Kong after 4 days in Lijiang - really beautiful part of China, and history: the Naxi people, the Tea-Horse route in that part of China, versus the Silk route in north-west China. Also the Flying Tiger team (?) used to refuel in Lijiang during the second world war. Oh, also the best massage I've ever had - deep and painful by blind masseurs!!!

Paulchili

Hi John,
good to hear from you. Enjoy your stay in Hong Kong ( I don't think you need my help there). I would love to hear all about you trip when you get home and recover.

monicapileggi

Hi Tower, I would be interested in getting the information on your guide for Guilin/Li cruise.

Thanks!

Monica

tower

monica:

we used Jadeleo's guide/auto service...very good all around..punctual, knowledgeable and very pleasant. Don't want be accused of blatantly advertising Jade's service...so write me for address etc.

Stu T. ([email protected])

monicapileggi

Hey Stu,

I emailed you earlier but it bounced back. Would you please email me at [email protected] with your information?

Thanks!

Monica