We have just confirmed our flights & received confirmation of hotel at Maison Souvanaphoun. Now, down to the planning to what to do when we get there.

The Laos web-site says to bring 2 passport phots & we will get a visa at the airport when we arrive. Is this accurate? Don't want to get there and be turned away!

Any suggestions for getting from the airport to the hotel? Are there taxis, or should we arrange in advance for transportation?

Already planning on one dinner at the 3 Nagas Laotian restaurant. Will we need a reservation in advance? Other suggestions for other nights?

What are worthwhile not to be missed things around LP? I think it was Kathie who mentioned a trip to a weaving village and also waterfalls. Are the Pak Ou caves worthwhile? Should we book through the hotel or make arrangements with a driver privately? Looking for suggestions on this.

Any special recommendations for shopping?

Thanks to everyone as usual for all the helpful advice. Don't know what we would do without all the great info and experience from Fodorites!

P.S. Thanks to Melea for the detailed description of Maison Souvannaphoum. Has anyone stayed there? Would love to hear the experiences of someone who has. Thanks!

I posted our LP trip report yesterday,look under my name-I did not stay at your hotel so I cant help you.
We got our visas in USA,saved at least 1 hour of standing in line.
You come out of customs and pay fixed price of $5-7 to the taxi desk who will give you a coupon to give to the taxidriver outside--like BKK
hope this helps

We only needed one passport photo for a visa and it took about 15 minutes of waiting when we got to the airport (this was just last week). Even tho I live in DC, it would have been a hassle sending everything in to the embassy. Also, they checked very carefully at the airline to be sure there were at least 6 months left on our passports. Be sure to look at that before you leave.
Our hotel picked us up, and we noticed that most tourists were picked up by a hotel car, so I would check with Maison first.
Eat at Louis restaurant once, on the river bank, has been recommended by others as well. But the Lao rest. at 3 Nagas was truly outstanding. We also enjoyed L'[Elephant.
The 3nagas restaurant was full one night when we were ther, so a reservation won't hurt.

we had the hotel send a car for us...$6 each as i remember....

we got our visa upon arrival and it was quick because we were 2nd in line...rush off the plane....sit near the door...

L'Elephant is the place to eat in LP...best food...

you might try the pansea where i stayed and so did boblax....he thought the food to be the best he had...nice semi-outdoor setting...i would make a res for that....

the indochine spirit restaurant, right by the fountain, as you enter town and not far from your hotel---walking distance---is the best lao food in town we are told....karen was sick the day we went there so we had bagauttes and the most fabulous mushroom soup....cheap, small...right on the road...old lao building...

the trip to the weaving center is fun---about 1/2 hour out of town....all the taxi/tuk tuk guys know where it is....looks like a 1940's single room school house in usa....worth the trip....lots to choose from....most things were about $10-18...some more modern (western) designs....karen says some of the stuff was available in the night market along the main street every nite, but at the coop you can see it better....more light...at night it is hard to see even though they have some portable lites...

my take was that the caves were a long ride away...we did not go based on the report of a guy we met at the hotel who went one day...."two hour ride up, one hour ride back and 30 minutes there to see a bunch of statues...is that something you would like"---he sealed it for me....

another group said waterfall was so so...depends if this type of thing impresses you...some like to swim there...

we loved just waling around...it is hot there....we just hired tuk tuk taxis for some hours...maybe $12 for 3 hours to take us around...

one a/c car the hotel contacted for us wanted over $100 for 5 hours....rip off i felt...

the tour of the palace is worth the effort...its right in town....the big wat near the end of the peninsula is really the best in town and worth some of your time....its the best preserved...

make sure to visit sandrina (canadian) at her shop on the main street, not far from villa santi, but on the other side of the street....shop: caruso lao....best shop in town, imo...we bought a table from her...

I loved the Pak Ou caves, an old Buddhist pilgrimage site. If you are interested in Buddhism, you'll probably liike it, if you aren't you probably won't. The river trip itself is worth the price as far as I was concerned.

We had a car and driver for the day, don't remember the price, but it wasn't much. However, that was several years ago.

Just back from L.P.I also enjoyed the trip to the caves. The boat ride there is probably the best part. You also stop at a rice paper village and a whisky village. It cost me $5.00 for a shared boat. There's not a ton of things to do in L.P so if you're there a few days, definitely do it. Just enjoy the town, rent a bike and explore. If you're into trekking, this is a good place to do it, as the tribes are less exposed than say in Thailand. Lots of wonderful dining. Bring lots of cash, especially small bills.

landini...can you write us a trip report and let us know about your trip?? please

Kathie/Landini, How did you make arrangements for the boat ride & trip to Pak Ou caves? Did you do a private trip or with a group? Is it a half day trip?

We'll look for Indochine Spirit & also Louis & L'Elephant.

You can arrange a trip to the caves through one of the shops in town or simply walk up towards the tip of the peninsula on the Mekong side and there are boat men there waiting. Usual fee is $15 per boat(in August) but it may be a little more now. Just sort of look at the boat a bit - some are swimming with water others nice and dry! We arranged one day for the next but if you go early enough you can just go off then and there. Takes maybe four to five hours for the trip - they will stop at the villages if you want - there is a weaving village (also has a lot of mulberry paper) and a whisky village (use to be a pottery jar place but not much now) The weaving village was good. Take some water and nibbles with you. You also will have to pay entrance fees at the caves - about 15000 kip I think it was - anyway only a $ or two.

Its a lovely trip up - slow against the flow and a bit quicker back. I didn't particularly like the caves as so many of the buddhas have gone missing particularly in the upper cave but overall very worthwhile. I'd do it again just for the river journey. The weaving village has some lovely stuff so take a bit of cash with you for there too!!!! Oh and definitely take a torch with you. the upper cave is pitch black - you can hire torches at the cave but they are pretty poor. Your hotel should have some if you don't carry one with you.

I will attempt a trip report.
I was in L.P. for 4 days, one of which was spent in the local hospital. I experienced two of the major attractions there ( the waterfalls and the caves). I enjoyed both, but really just loved walking and biking around town. I hired my own tuk-tuk driver to take me to a Hmong village. It was nice to be the only tourist there, as apposed to going with a group. If you choose to do a trek or an adventure tour, I would recommend Elephant Tours or Tiger Trails (?) something like that. They seemed to be less touristy and more concerned with an authentic experience. I did my trek in Chiang Mai, Thailand, but after talking to several people and the tour operators, I wish I would have done it here. I planned to go here as well, but ended up in the hospital, which was also a memorable experience and quite inexpensive, I might add.

I stayed at the Merry-Lao Swiss which I booked at the airport upon arrival. I thought I would get into town and check out hotels and then switch. Almost everything was booked and my hotel was quite nice anyway. The owner and I became fast friends after he rode me twice to the pharmacist and once to the hospital on the back of his bike.

I took a cooking class which was quite fun, but thought the class I took in Thailand was better. I still recommend it, it's $25.00 and you get to eat the fruits of your labor.

L.P. is becoming very popular. However , it has not yet lost any of its charm. There were several wonderful restaurants, amazing sunsets along the Mekong and good shopping at the night market. You won't be disappointed. Go now before it becomes overrun.

The driver we had for the day arranged with his friend for us to have a boat to ourselves, about US$14. It's easy to hire your own boat or ask one of the places in town to do it for you.

Personally. I didn't like the lao-lao village and the so-called weaving village on the river did not have nearly the quality of the weavings in the village co-op outside of LP.

Recently we stayed at the Maison Souvannaphoum. We really enjoyed it and missed the cheerful staff so much when we left, that we are still in touch.

Give our love to Dararat, (trainee manager) Chansamone, Champala and Kinmally ( reception) especially. They will make you feel more than welcome. They said Tony looked like a famous film star !!! I won't tell you which one !!!

The buffet breakfast is wonderful. I still miss the prawn noodles, pancakes with maple syrup , fresh fruit cocktails -mmmm just the thought of it is making me hungry.

We had a room with beautifully polished wood flooring, traditional weavings, modern decor (smallish, ultra modern shower room) and a balcony overlooking the garden for sipping G&T's. The Souvannaphoum provides some nice touches but I won't spoil their surprises. It is about ten minutes walk away from the night market.

Taxis from the airport are easy to book at the airport desk and the return taxi was not extortionate, I think we called one from the hotel.

There are a couple of small supermarkets across the road from the hotel and they sell all the basics from biscuits to alcohol. Laundry services are abundant in Luang Prabang at around one USD per kilo.

Things to buy -- bring an extra fold away case-- you will need it.
The Night Market has hand appliqued cushion covers, duvet covers slippers soap bags, silk weavings, lampshades, silver bracelets, terracotta and gold paintings on handmade paper, silver jewellery, scarves, wall hangings, table runners, table mats. I was in shopping heaven and what is more, the vendors are not pushy, so polite, just a quiet Sabaidee, (hello).

It is a short walk from the Souvannaphoum. We found prices to be very reasonable and did just a bit of gentle bargaining.

Things to do:
In Luang Prabang you can easily book a trips to the waterfalls and the Pak Ou caves. We paid 9USD per person for the two half day trips, 4.5 USD each per trip. "Mr. Flat Cap" on the main street packs a full mini van and a full boat to the caves. We did one trip on one day and one the next but you can do them on the same day if you wish. The waterfalls have turquoise pools and there are wooden changing huts for bathers.

To go to Luang Prabang and not see the Pak Ou caves would be an omission. We went by boat and visited the hand made paper/silk weaving/ lao lao spirit distillation stops, en route, but there was no pressure to buy and the trip is so inexpensive any way. Take a torch for the caves.

We walked down by the river and booked a sunset cruise very reasonably (Tony is good at bargaining). We went to the Tum Tum Cheng cookery school, including a visit to the large, local market by tuk tuk. There were six in our group that day. The food was wonderful.

We went to the Plain of Jars in a day-- but it is a very, very long tiring trip (45 USD per person, bring your own lunch if you do try this, because there is not much there but the Jars).

We flew to Vientiane from Luang Prabang. It is an easy flight but now I wished that we had travelled by road via Vang Vieng and the Plain of Jars -even though it might have been rather uncomfortable and the guest houses a bit basic. We would have seen a lot more of the country.

I have lost count of the restaurants we visited but they are plentiful. No danger of running out. Eating down by the Mekong River is atmospheric.


We visited the Dance Theatre, Royal Palace Museum, numerous Wats and temples, Mount Phousi, and took a ferry to the other side of the Mekong.

We got up really early one morning to watch the women giving rice to the monks. If you wish to give rice I saw an organised tour for just over two USD that offered to explain the customs and provide the rice. Alternatively, buy a bag containing several packets of cooked rice wrapped in banana leaves from the food section of the night market (I think someone told me it was a dollar or less). Do not buy it from the ladies who approach you for "two dollars" on the morning. I just watched, however, as I was a bit too shy to join in.

You can also visit the grave of Henri Mouhot, discoverer of Ankor Wat – but we ran out of time.

I have only just found Fodor’s while researching for our next trip. I have posted a full account of our travels to Luang Prabang and The Plain of Jars on:

http://www.epinions.com/content_212779372164 ( Luang Prabang)

and http://www.epinions.com/content_213614038660 ( Plain of Jars)

Hope that this is helpful,

Gill (and Tony).

Thanks so much! Wonderful information. How long did you spend in LP? Sounds like you were able to enjoy a lot of things. Did you book your trips to the caves & waterfalls through the hotel or with a storefront "agent"? I have e-mailed Maison Souvanaphoun to ask about transport from the airport to the hotel. It's about $25. Are we better off just taking a taxi? Had thought to use the hotel service because I'n not sure we'll have Laotian currency when we arrive. Will we be able to get local currency when we arrive at the airport there or can we get it in BKK? I also asked Souvanaphoum about a quiet veranda room with view of the pool & gardens & they suggested room 201 with a view of pool, gardens & restaurant. Do you recall which room you stayed in? SOmeone had mentioned noise from the stree & we wanted a quiet room with a view. Don't mean to sound so picky, but...well it's the details that make the difference between ok & great.

Taxi from the airport should be about $7US maybe a bit more or less. Don't worry about local currency until you get into town. They use US dollars everywhere so just take some small notes with you. You can use US at any of the restaurants and shops - many prices are in US - they also take Thai Baht and of course their own Kip. Even in the market the first price will normally be asked in US and if you have Kip then just say how much in Kip. If you change dollars to Kip you will get a slightly better rate when you pay for things - eg the exchange rate is about 10500kip to the US dollar but the locals will just convert at 10000. Some places will give you change only in Kip, some will give you whatever currency you paid in. Its all very easy. There are a couple of official banks in the main street to change money into Kip. I found it easiest to have some Kip and some US for backup in my purse. You are not meant to take Kip out of the country.

Things have changed since I was in LP several years ago. You could pay for your taxi from the airport in US$, but everthing else was priced in kip!

Don't exchange more than US$20 as a time, as you'll get quite a stack of kip (filled my waistpack). As Mary notes, kip are worthless outside of Laos so spend them all before you leave.

Great comments above. We returned early December from LP. The cave tour on the boat with everyone was fine the first morning. We purchased the tickets late the previous evening at storefront for $5 each. Depends how comfortable you are travelling re: prefer to do thru hotel, storefront, or go over to the river and negotiate or see if someone can refer you to a boat driver on this website for approx. $18 for private boat so you can stop as often/long as you wish. Ours stopped for 15-20 mins. at the two villages en route. Really just an introduction, not much time to explore or do a lot of bargaining. Hubby bought some rice wine in the whisky village-v. good. The caves were interesting to see. You do have to reach in your pocket to pay an entrance free so don't assume it is covered in the cost if you go thru the storefront tour operators as we did. Also bring the flashlight for upper cave--v. many steps up. I found the upper cave disappointing but was worth checking it out.

One tour a day is enough. In the afternoon you can explore the town on your own, relax by the hotel pool if it is v. hot. Agree re: the wat at the end of the peninsula was wonderful to see and the Garden Spa is nearby if you want to have a massage with shower. Generally found the massages in LP much less experienced than those in Chiang Mai who are real professionals. The best massage place is the Red Cross (believe it or not) and the money goes to a good cause. They also have a herbal steam room in the afternoons.

The taller of the caves was a lovely experience to swim in the pools before the crowds arrived-go there late morning. Tuk Tuk on our own.
You should ask your hotel to provide the hotel transfer complimentary for the money you are paying. Villa Santi included it as do many of the other higher priced places. $25 seems very high for Laos.

Re: visa - bring at least two photos. Different people told us different things but at the airport they asked for 2 photos. Good to have one or two extra while travelling in case you need for any reason. The line for those of us buying visas upon arrival took approx. 45 mins.(we were the last ones thru) and was quite organized. However, if you can get beforehand do so as it is one less detail to take care off and you can grab your luggage and be first thru to check out the airport information desk (hotels, maps, etc). $30 in us needed, plus $1 if w/e or public holiday. Departure tax is $10 us also. Small foodstand for refreshments in the departure area.

The pool is at the quieter end of the Souvannaphoum gardens, so you should be fine with 201. I think that ours might have been 211, also a Verandah room, but much closer to the road. I like people watching and it did not bother me, but the buzz of mopeds/tuk tuks might bother some.

We took a taxi straight from the airport, just as everyone has advised you to do. We did not ever use the hotel taxi at 25 USD, but for our return we telephoned one from outside.

You can book trips so easily in Luang Prabang. Every other shop seems to do tours very cheaply. It is not worth booking through a hotel. People will approach you on the street, especially for boat trips down by the river. Make a note of the price that Fodor members have paid for each trip and stick to it.

Our trips were incredibly good value. We booked them with "Mr Flat Cap" on the main street ( I have no idea what his real name is) but he does tend to pack people in, so if you want a bit of leg room it would be worth hiring a private boat or tuk tuk. Definitely go to the Pak Ou caves by boat, the boat journey is one of the best bits. I agree that "Tiger Tours " (or some name like it) on the main street seem to offer less touristy versions of the tours.

All hotels seem to pile on the extras, that is why I mentioned the small shops over the road and the abundant laundry services in Luang Prabang.

Tony says that there is a good money exchange at Luang Prabang airport, so don't worry aabout currency. He got a very good exchange rate there.

One other thing, The Souvannaphoum is by the fountain - a local landmark. There is no water in it, so it took us a while to figure it out. Tour operators who pick you up from the hotel often refer to it, so it is useful to know that is where you are.

When are you going and how long are you staying ?

Best wishes,

Gill.

PS.The post office is conveniently on the other side of the road, nearer to the night market. They also have some interesting collector's stamps - we bought some for a philatalist friend of ours.

Great info everyone! Really looking forward to it! We're only going to be in LP for 3 days the first week in February - will leave about noon on the 4th day. We are very independent travelers and will probably arrange the visits to the caves & waterfalls on our own with boats & tuk tuk drivers so we can see things at our own pace. Sounds pretty easy. We'll do boat/caves one morning & waterfall the next, and spend the rest of the time roaming around, seeing wats, visiting the weaving co-op Kathie recommends, etc. So glad about laundry as we'll need it by then. I assume three days will be enough time to get it done. Gill & Tony, How long were you in LP?