After 8 days in Tokyo arriving May 3rd, I am travelling for 2 weeks using a JR pass before spending a week in the Kyoto area. Here's my tentative itinerary:

Tokyo(8 nights)--Hiroshima(3 nights)--Beppu(1 night)-Kurakowa Onsen(2 nights onsen ryokan spluge)-Mt Aso(1 night)-Kumamoto(daytrip) en route by ferry to Shimabara and stay Unzen Onsen(2 nights)-Nagasaki(3 nights)-Kirashiki(2nights including day trip to Okayama and Kibi Plain bike route)-Himeji for the day en route to Kyoto(7 nights)-Nara(1 night)-Koyasan(2 nights)-Kansai for departure.

Most of this is pretty much firm, the exceptions being stops in Beppu and Unzen Onsen. I am thinking Beppu might be an interesting and fun lowbrow cultural experience. And from what I have read Unzen Onsen sounds like a good stop on the way to Nagasaki. Are these two places worth a visit?

Also welcome comments on the overall itinerary? Thanks.

We went to Kuyushu last year (March time). We did not go to Beppu - we weren't sure how it sounded! However we had a wonderful stay at Sanga Ryokan in Kurakowa. We had our own hot bath and like you say it was a two night splurge - and we really enjoyed it.
To get to Kurakowa we hired a car a Fukokoka ( we had used a Japan Rail pass until we got here). We drove to Mt Asso - an nteresting landscape, but not terribly exciting IMO. However at certan times there are mountain fire festivals which look very interesting. We also went to Takachiho - but felt it too late to stay to the temple play and then drive in the dark - but this looks very interesting.
We also stayed and Koyasan and very much enjoyed that. You might like to look at the report on http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=27

Why three nights in Hiroshima?

I made a stop for a few hours in Beppu. I think it is quite optional.

Might spend the night at Yufuin then a few hours in Beppu and on to Kurokawa. But you are right, the night in Beppu might be fun and then you go on to Kurokawa getting there at 3PM or so for checkin to your ryokan. Maybe one night there is enough.

btw, how do you get to Kurokawa?

Definitely stop and see the castle in Kumamoto. There is a nice garden adjacent to it (that was not open when I was there).

I think you are right about the 2 nights in Unzen. I have read good things about it also and want to go there for 2 or 3 nights.

The 3 nights in Nagasaki is good.

You could fly from Nagasaki to Okayama or Osaka to save time. But the Kamome limited express train to Hakata is nice.

You'll be able to go to the grand sumo tournament in Tokyo.

There is a cycling route from Imabari that goes across the Inland Sea by bridges and island hopping. Maybe you would be interested in that.

Hi. Thanks for the comments. To answer your questions: Why 3 nights Hiroshima? The first day I travel by train from Tokyo and won't arrive Hiroshima until 3:00pm. So it's really only 2 full days: one at Miyajima and one to see the main Hiroshima sites.

If I go, I'll travel to Beppu from Hiroshima and spend only an afternoon and evening. Skipping Yefuin because I am spending 2 nights at Sanga Ryokan in Kurakowa Onsen. I'll take a bus directly from Beppu or a train to Aso and a bus from there.

Regarding Unzen Onsen, on another site I got the comment "Why would you go there"!! so I would love to hear from someone who has been there and can give feedback.

smac:

I suppose I know Beppu ..been there twice within a 60 year period. Of course, what it was like when I "lived" there two years (1946-48) as opposed to modern Beppu of this past spring's visit, is world's apart...obviously.

If you wish, please write and I'll scan you a ton of current information including city maps that I have, and some digital pix of the popular spa city today, as well as a peek at the distant pass. Don't want to bore the folks herein.

Stu t.
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We had a wonderful time at Sanga Ryokan - but just to mention it is slightly out of the town. In the town people walk between the "baths" and around the area - it is a bit far to walk to Sanga Ryokan. This can be a plus in that I think less people use the public "baths" as they are further out, but may make it harder if you have no transport.