Has anyone visited the Kiso Valley towns of Tsumago and Magome? We're thinking of going there for a night on the way from Takayama to Tokyo (a very indirect route). I've read about doing a 3 hour hike between the two villages (luggage forwarding not available till May 21 here). Has anyone stayed in either village overnight? We're spending one night in Takayama and one night in Shirakawago. We have one additional night before we have to be back in Tokyo. It takes a good 3 1/2 hours with several transfers just to get from Takayama to these post towns, so I'm wondering if it's worth it.

...and in case anyone has helpful comments, here's my rough two-week itinerary:
May 6th Narita
May 7 - 13 Kyoto (with side trips to Himeji, Nara, Ohara, Miho -- based on the comments I've read here)
May 14 Takayama
May 15 Shirakawago
May 16 ???
May 17 - 20 Tokyo

In Tokyo we hope to see a sumo match, fish market and the Sanjo Matsuri festival. Has anyone attended this festival? It seems we'll miss the Aoi Matsuri fest in Kyoto -- which looked lovely, but we only have two weeks! Advice? Thanks in advance.

I think you will be in Kyoto when geisha perform the Kamogawa Odori, which is sort of like a musical and is IMHO really wonderful - do consider trying to see it!

hi kja,
Do you know where the Kamogawa Odori is performed?

Your proposed route is very similar to one we took two years ago. We stayed two nights in Tsumago and did the hike to Magome (bused back). I very much enjoyed it ... accomodations in Tsumago a little primitive and Magome looked more touristy with a larger selection? But after everyone had left for the day, it was beautiful to walk along the main street (Tsumago)and watch the people. The hike was fun (we are in our 60's) and not too hard although at times I was wondering if we were totally lost. There was a wonderful waterfall along the way, different scenes, a few bugs and a few people along the trail. I don't think I would repeat the visit but I am glad we went.

The odori is at the Ponto-cho Kaburen-jo Theater in Pontocho -- see http://www.pref.kyoto.jp/visitkyoto/...kyoto_city/22/