glorialf

Bob-- we could DEFINITELY learn something from them. We could also recognize that unlike in the old days our democracy and our rights are also at risk so "people in glass houses can't throw stones." I didn't feel that way when I went in 1999 but I sure do now.

wintersp

Lynn,

Thank you for this detailed trip report. You certainly captured the country well.
I had experienced most of the places, including Mandalay City Hotel, but missed Kalaw. I'll put that on my next trip!! And there will be a next trip to Myanmar!

First of all, in Myanamar we don't see any places the government doesn't want us to! I at first didn't see any of the 'govt oppression' - only the smiling, hospitable people. Then I remembered the youngsters working on the hwy from Mandalay airport to town. Although I never crossed the line in conversation to put anyone on the spot, I had a waiter at the Paradise Lake resort talk to me (the curse or the benefit of traveling single). His English was excellent - but his wages were 30,000 Kyat a month and he literally lived there in a dormitory situation although he was married with child. He was leaving the next day since his child was ill and he had to go home. My guides had college degrees and excellent english -but guiding was their most lucrative job option. You do begin to wonder.

As the magic became more distant, I began to see and question more things. While the oppression is not 'in your face', it's an undercurrent just beneath the surface. It is a credit to the wonderful people of Myanmar to be so calm, smiling and hospitable in spite of their daily life. They are truly admirable and inspirational!

glorialf

Very well said wintersp. And even with our guides -- when the spoke about politics they insisted on doing it outside -- not in rooms that could "have ears". And they did not do it when anyone whom they did not know well and trust was around.

Hanuman

I don't know if you guys noticed this or not but as soon as a tip was given to a porter or a guide at the airport, especially after they are beyond your sight, they would go straight to a "official" looking man who would take the tips! This man would then give out a slip of paper or small bills in the local currency back to the porters and guides.

I saw this at Yangon airport since our plane was delayed for a long time and I didn't have anything else to do.

NLspirit

Lynn,
I loved your report! ...... so informative, beautifully written and your itinerary probably suggests the way my husband and I would like to travel while there next January. We are normally independant travellers but have decided to try at least a partially guided tour this time. You gave us so many things to consider and lots of wonderful suggestions for things to see and do. It's quite a distance to travel again .. we're from Newfoundland, Canada ... and there are so many other places we want to visit but you've convinced us this has to be on our must travel list and warrents a return visit to the area. SE Asia has captured our hearts. Our guide while visiting the River Kwai in Thailand two years ago was originally from Myanmar and we were so impressed with his stories that our interest was heightened. We had also enjoyed visiting the hillside villages near Chiang Mai and also in Sapa in Vietnam. This time we're considering a trek to Pindaya as well. And having read your .. and Craig's .. report..... we are even more convinced we've made the right decision. The comments about Santa Maria were also helpful so I emailed them for information ..... so far they haven't returned our request. Hopefully soon. In the meantime I'll contact other agencies too. Thanks again for such a detailed and wonderful report!
Gwen

Craig

NLspirit - be advised that sometimes e-mail doesn't get through to Santa Maria and other addresses in Myanmar. If you don't hear from them within a couple of days, do resend your e-mail.

keldar

Hello all:
Thanks again for your comments and questions. Life is a little hectic right now so haven't checked in recently. I am not surprised that a report to such a place brings up questions about the life of ordinary people in Myanmar.
Everyone must judge for themselves by what they see and hear. My husband and I were left in no doubt of the terrible conditions of the lives of most people in Myanmar. But the spirit of the people and their profound faith keep them uplifted and smiling through it all. It is difficult for those of us who come from countries where free speech and freedom of movement etc. just "is", to understand how anyone could live under such dreadful conditions. However I think that just because the people are smiling doesn't make them any less aware of their plight. It's how they look at it that is different.
None of this should stop anyone from travelling there. The people are helped immensely by tourism and everytime you buy something from someone who is obviously in business for themselves you are helping life get a little better and more bearable.

NL- Happy to meet someone from where my roots are. (although my family has been in Ontario for many years ) You won't be disappointed in Myanmar. I hope you have heard from Santa Maria by now. We really have lots of praise for them. Kyaw, the office manager was most helpful. Try re-sending your email to see if that helps. If you do a trek, Kalaw was the place to do it.There were many offered, we just chose an easy one. Kyaw can suggest something to suit your abilities and needs.
Jimmy was our guide in Kalaw and he was so wonderful. Very conversant in the ways of the local people and knowledgeable about what you were seeing etc.
(Just another suggestion NL if you are travelling in SE Asia and are looking for other treks, we heard about one (too late) out of Luang Prabang, Laos that sounded interesting. Check out their website www.kamulodge.com
We talked to some fellow Canadians in LP who had a wonderful trek there visiting the hill tribes.
regards to all and thanks again.
Hopefully pictures to follow soon.

NLspirit

Lynn - Small world! NLers are everywhere it seems. Where are your roots? Six degrees of separation elsewhere but maybe only two here on the 'rock'! Have you been? Thanks for the great suggestions. I have since heard from Santa Maria and they do seem to be a great company. I'm working on an itinerary with them. We're usually independant travellers so the experience of working with an agency is new to me. At the moment we're thinking 1 night Yangon, 2 nights Bagan, 1 night Kalaw, 4 nights Inle lake and 1 night Yangon. We're then off to do 2 1/2 to 3 weeks in Vietnam (independantly) which we enjoyed very much two years ago. I also asked Santa Maria if I could request specific guides and they indicated I could. I appreciated your comments about the political situation in Myanmar. My husband has some difficulty with visiting for those reasons but he is trying to work it through. Your description of Inle Lake reminded me of our experience on Tonle Sap Lake in Cambodia. The people there lived in challenging circumstances .. better in recent years politically, but still challenging economically and socially. Yet their spirit was strong and uplifting to those of us who live a much more privileged life. I'll certainly keep all your suggestions for Myanmar in mind.
Again many thanks to all for your help. I'll keep you posted.
Gwen