Hi,

I'm working on Spring 2008 Japan itinerary. It will be an add-on 2 nights (maximum) stay after my business trip, and I'm trying to decide which destination to choose, either Takayama or Magome.

Are two places somewhat similar (rustic charm, history)? Alternatively, would it be possible to do one night each? I need to get to either Nagoya or Toyama to catch domestic flights back to Haneda. Also, has anyone heard of Gero onsen--is it worth detour?

I was very disappointed in Takayama. Nice buildings but now just selling crappy souvenirs and the place is filled with bus loads of tourists. It was my least favorite place in Japan. Have not been to Magome.

I haven't been to Magome so can't say anything about it other than it's on our list.

Takayama is easy access to Toyama and Nagoya. But I found it short on rustic charm and history. It's a small Japanese city that looks like other Japanese cities. It has old temples, and an historic district (basically a street of black buildings that house souvenir shops and the odd tea house), but other than that, not any more charming than any other city. Just outside of the city is a Gassho house museum, open air style, that is interesting, but I find the real thing in Shirakawa-go and Gokayama more interesting.

Gero onsen is a famous onsen town. Not worth it for a brief stop to just take a bath, but worth it for a night in a really nice onsen ryokan, of which there are some.

Depending on when in spring your trip is...pretty consistently over the years, Golden Week and cherry blossoms coincide in Shirakawa-go.

Thanks very much for candid views. I shall be there toward the last week of March---probably in the middle of the school spring break?

Also has anyone heard of morning market in Takayama? I remember reading something in the newspaper travel section years ago, but is it the real McCoy or more of a show for tourists?

KimJapan,
Is there more than the thatched-roof buildings to see around Shirakawago/Gokoyama?

The morning market in Takayama we found a huge disappointment...we were also there in March. Some souvenir type things for sale, tea, and furikake (put on rice), basically. Very few sellers. I hear it's better in summer/fall with vegetables and so on. It may be the real thing (most really are in Japan anyway) but it's small and uninspiring in our experience.

In Shirakawa-go, the main attraction is the houses. There are some open to the public. There is an open air museum as well, and with reservation you can make soba, weave, and soemthing else I think. The restaurant Irori near the entrance to the village is excellent...try the yakitofu teishoku. There is also some nice hiking. About 30 minutes away is Gokayama, where you can see more houses, experience making paper. Need a car, really, though.

Last week of March will likely be quite cold, maybe rainy as well...kind of the norm in these parts in March. About a month too early for cherry blossoms in S-go.

Thanks very much, KimJapan. Your description is always so helpful!

Where are you traveling from?

You wouldn't be taking a flight from Nagoya to Haneda, you'd take a train or bus to Nagoya and then take the shinkansen.

Going via Toyama is not such a good idea unless you are interested in the scenic part of the trip from Takayama. A big typhoon wiped out part of the track on that line, so now you go partway by bus and part by train. One fodorite reported being very nervous by the bus ride as it apparently goes along the side of a mountain. I have read that the train ride from Takayama to Toyama was one of the most scenic in Japan.

Your other option from Takayama is to take the bus over the mountains, with a stop at Kamikochi, to Matsumoto. There is an onsen stop along the way. Also, Matsumoto castle is well worth a visit. Then a limited express train to Shinjuku from there.

If you choose to go to Magome then your route to Tokyo would be train via Matsumoto or via Nagoya.

I like Takayama. It is a very walkable town good for a day's sightseeing. Couple of nice ryokans. The merchant streets there are interesting and yes they do sell your basic souvenirs like you will find in Kyoto. It wasn't crowded with tourists when I was there, except the time that I visited for the famous spring festival.

What is said to be one of the nicest ryokans in Japan is in Takayama. I think glorialf stayed there.

The Takayama Jinya is very interesting. It is a government house from the Edo period. You can also check out the place where they store floats for the festival. There is a museum.

Also, there is a walk/hike among the temples in the hills to the west of the city.

If you can't go to Shirakawago then you would definitely want to check out the Hida no Sato. It is an outdoor museum with several Hida region traditional farm structures includin the gassho zukuri farmhouses. A lot more interesting than I thought it would be.

The Green Hotel has the only onsen bath in town.

The morning market, imo, is a waste of time.

I stayed a night at Gero Onsen. One thing about it is that the onsen is very convenient to the JR station. I stayed at a tourist hotel that sent a van to meet my train and drive me the 3 minutes to the hotel.

It would be easy enough to get off the train, go for a soak, and then catch a later train to continue traveling.

Shirakawago is definitely worth staying overnight at a gassho zukuri.