My wife and I are in our mid-60s and very experienced travelers. We are considering a self-guided tour of Japan using JR passes as our primary means of travel. We have previously visited Tokyo and Kyoto and on this trip will visit Tokyo again as we have friends living there. We have approximately two weeks to spend outside of Tokyo and are thinking about the following itinerary:<BR><BR>Fly to Narita from Hong Kong, take JR to Nikko for two nights<BR>Take JR to Hokkaido for a couple of nights<BR>Take JR to Niigata and head for Karuizawa, Matsumoto, Takayama, and Kanazawa for however many nights it requires<BR>Take JR to Hiroshima and Miyajima for several nights<BR>Take JR to Tokyo with a possible stop at Nara<BR>Fly home to SF from Narita<BR><BR>We plan to each take one rolling bag and one small bag. I am not permitted to carry my own suitcase but can lift it and roll it. In addition, I've had knee and hip replacement but am quite mobile. The only challenge I have is sitting/lying on the floor and getting back up again. It's doable without pain or stress, just a slow process. My wife is, however, extremely fit and goes to Jazzercise thrice-weekly.<BR><BR>Is this whole itinerary too ambitious? Can we negotiate our way in and out of train stations with our luggage given the above? The language doesn't daunt us but the physical challenges might (me, at least).<BR><BR>Any advice and practical suggestions for places along this route-of-march would be much appreciated. If, for example, Hokkaido is a relative waste of time, fine. Where would you spend more time?<BR><BR>Your comments and experiences would be most appreciated. I especially look forward to what Florence has to say.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>David in Lafayette, CA<BR>

Hi David,This is quite an ambitious itinerary for two weeks!<BR>I have been to most of these cities and towns and would recommend all of them, except I think you will end up on trains more than out in the towns. the ones in the middle also don't have as frequent train service so you'll have to time things carefully. <BR>Unless you are going to Hokkaido for a specific reason (eg;ice festival, skiing, hiking in the national parks)I would skip it. It is quite a bit of extra travel, yet not nearly as interesting as most of your other choices. Niigata was also not as interesting to me. I think you'll find more than enough in the other spots, and you could always stop at places like Himeji castle if you are really moving fast. The beauty of a rail pass is that you can always adjust as you go. If you aren't travelling during a holiday period, you really won't need to do any advance reservations for lodging...we usually just pull into town and use the station TIC or call from our guide book.. <BR>The train stations can involve a LOT of stair climbing. You will be lifting your bag as much or more than you will be rolling it. I would recommend you get the combo backback/roller. Get one with a belt, or add one if you can. It takes some of the weight off your shoulders. In addition, your wife could manage both if it was nesessary. <BR>This sounds like a fun trip!

I once traveled from Hokkaido down to Kagoshima, stopping at numerous cities for only 1 or 2 nights (theater group on tour). Traveling by train was quite comfortable, although the staircases at many train stations were brutal! I managed with my one rolling suitcase, but it was stressful, especially when the stations were crowded. Your wife will need to help you carry your luggage in certain train stations.<BR>As for Hokkaido, Sapporo has wonderful food. Excellent seafod, rahmen, and great izakayas for drinks and snacks. I didn't have a chance to sightsee, but I definitely remember enjoying the restaurants there. Are you planning on visiting an onsen? You might enjoy staying at an onsen to rest from your train travel.<BR>Best wishes,<BR>Susan

Bonjour David,<BR><BR>You have already received very good advice, and I have good news for you: you don't need to carry your bags, you can have them sent in advance to your next destination. Have a look at http://net.saipan.com/personal/mike_...a.html#luggage and http://www.jnto.go.jp/english/tips/tips5.html#54 for details. Most hotels and of course the TIC will help you arrange baggage delivery to your next destination (companies doing that are called "takkyubin").<BR><BR>I think Hokkaido is too much out of your way for too little to see. You might go instead closer to Tokyo, for example to Sendai/Matsushima and Hiraizumi. IMO, Hiroshima and Miyajima don't deserve more than 2 nights (preferably in Miyajima). Why not spend a few days in Shikoku on the way back to Tokyo: Inland Sea, Takamatsu, Tokushima, Kochi, Matsuyama and its castle, Uchiko, Naruto whirlpool, the 88 Temples-Pilgrimage (parts of it ... the whole pilgrimage is 700 miles long and takes 6 to 8 weeks on foot - but it is supposed to give you lots of merits in your next life).

Bonjour, Florence, et merci beaucoup.<BR><BR>Your suggestions are good ones and we are appreciative. We have, in fact, used takkyubin baggage delivery services before but they required, at the time we did it in 1994, two-days or more notice which was not very practical.<BR><BR>We have eliminated Hokkaido as a destination and are currently working on concentrating on central and western Honshu at this point. As we've not been to Nara, that is getting higher on the list.<BR><BR>Ideally we could find a place in the Japan Alps where we could stop for three nights or so and use it as a base from which to do day trips by bus, train, or car. Any ideas?<BR><BR>Merci encore,<BR>David in Lafayette, CA

Bonjour David,<BR><BR>I've not stayed there, but Matsumoto looks like a good base from where to explore the Kiso valley, Takayama, and Kanazawa. <BR><BR>If you can read French, I recommend the book "Le Voyage au Japon, anthologie de textes fran&ccedil;ais 1858-1908" by Patrick Beillevaire (Laffont www.bouquins.tm.fr) for inspiration of unusual itineraries.

Matsumoto is a great town! One of Japan's best castles -six stories of climbing inside, but what a view!- and a good folk art museum next door. We first went there in March, so it was still very cold and many of the mountain roads to the surrounding towns were closed. We later went through it in the summer, and it was nice and cool. <BR>I am working throught a new book I bought- Japan Solo. It is not very informative when it comes to hotels and restaruants, but is a fabulous guide to the train system, and has lots of detailed itineraries and interesting self guided tours. I got all excited and am now planning another trip!

Lcuy, thanks for the tip on Japan Solo. I ordered it and Gateway to Japan from Amazon last night.<BR><BR>Florence, I'm afraid my French is not good enough to allow me to read a book and understand it.<BR><BR>David