The itinerary for the first third of our October India holiday is now set, involving a lot of train travel, most of it overnight. The second third is by Jet Airways pass starting from New Delhi, but we had to settle for flying out of Delhi a day earlier than we originally wanted. This means that we can either

(a) choose to shorten one of our stays from two-and-a-half days to one-and-a-half days: we have to choose between cutting this day from Jaipur, Jaisalmer or Jodhpur;

or (b) Using the more favourable train schedule for Bikaner to leave Jaisalmer out of the equation altogether and substitute Bikaner, which (from the guide books) seems to be similar, maybe slightly less spectacular but also less "touristy". In this case we would be able, quite easily, to schedule equal time in Jaipur, Jodhpur, and Bikaner.

I would appreciate some wise advice from peopl who know both of these desert cities. Is Bikaner a fair substitute for Jaisalmer, or should I stick with Jaisalmer and cut a day out of one of the other three cities?

Thanks for ALL advice!

Anyone?

Hi Alan, I didn't want your message to go unanswered!! I haven't been to Bikaner but I have spent a bit of time in Jaisalmer. I have to tell you that I honestly think you'd really be missing something by not going to Jaisalmer. It really is something else!

Alan, visited both Jaisalmer and Bikaner recently. Jaisalmer is a lot more scenic as you actually stay in the fort itself, and many of the hotels have rooftop restaurants from which you can see across the desert. Bikaner is a lot more urban and didn't feel like much of a 'deserty' place. It's also, as you say, a lot more touristy - though no less manic than Jaisalmer. The main reasons I went to Bikaner was that it was a stop off on the way to Amritsar (dosen't sound like you'll have time for it, but if you have try to get there) and the Karni Mata - the temple of rats!!

Personally, I'd choose Jaisalmer. A day and a half is probably enough for Jodphur although it is a stunningly beautiful place and I could have stayed a lot longer.

Hope this is of some help.

Thank you, Jimmy and Daneille! You have made up my mind for me. I will stick with Jaisalmer and the extra half-day travel, and cut a day out of Jaipur (we still get a day and a half there, so that's not too bad).

Much obliged! And Jimmy: any recommendations for a cheap-but-memorable "in-fort" hotel in Jaisalmer?

Hi Alan-I'm planning India, like you, for Dec. My Indian mate has recommended Rohetgarh Hotel in Jodhpur as a taste of Old Rajasthan. It is one we won't miss. Just thought I'd pass it on. www.rohetgarh.com

Hi Alan, years ago when we stayed at Jaisalmer the hotel we stayed in had travelling minstrals playing traditional indian instruments who turned up at around dusk, played for a while and then went on their way. We all gathered in the courtyard with a drink and it was quite wonderful. You may want to check that the hotel you stay in has this because it certainly added to our experience.

Alan, I think my budget was a little tighter than yours will be so not sure I can recommend anything. Also, the guy who owned the hotel organised our camel treks and completely ripped off a pair of Canadians I got to know, so I wouldn't want to send any more business his way.

Thanks again, Lyndie, Daneille, and Jimmy!

Lyndie, I looked up that website, and wow! I see what you mean! Unfortunately, even their cheapest room is about a hundred Aussie dollars a night, and we are on a backpacker's budget, so I fear that we may have to settle for something a little less salubrious. But it was nice to know that accommodation like this does exist; who knows, after countless nights on the train we may decide that one night of unspeakable luxury is all that will keep us going. Anyway, I saved the website for future reference.

Come on, Daneille, out with it! The travelling minstrels sound great, but when I get off the train at Jaisalmer, can I just turn to the nearest person and say "Daneille told me about this hotel with minstrels... do you remember her?" Or would I do better if I could come up with the name of the establishment? (Of course, your name might well be famous -- or notorious -- all over India, so maybe that's all I need!)

Jimmy, I can do without getting ripped off, so I won't press you further -- but, be assured, you can go to the four corners of the earth and you will NEVER come up with anyone whose budget is tighter than ours! Every cent of this holiday is bank-borrowed, and since I am retired, how to pay it all back is something I will have to think about when I get home. I thought I might bring an orange towel and a begging bowl back with me!

It was nice to hear from you three!

The minstrals (or folk musicians)of which there are many in Jaisalmer, play at many hotels, not just the one I stayed at and I think it would really just be a matter of asking around. You would probably prefer NOT to stay at the one I did, even if I could remember its name. It had no running water and you had to ask the staff to draw water from their well if you wanted to bathe. You merely asked for a bucket of hot and a bucket of cold and they'd heat one bucket up and leave the other cold then give you a "spare" to mix the water up to your liking. Then you'd go back to your room and there was a partitioned "bathroom" where you'd pour water over yourself to shower (Much easier if there was two of you!!). The only downfall of this arrangement was that the open drain ran through all the rooms so if you were in anything other than the top room you effectively had an open sewer running through your room!! Great people and terrific atmosphere and they arranged a bonza camel safari for us (and kept our other bags safe while we were gone) but probably a little too down market for you. A check on the internet shows that the Paradise Hotel has a rooftop area that you can listen to live folk music and it seems to get a few recommendations: Hotel Paradise (Tel: 02992 - 52674), so you may wish to check it out.

I will, Daneille, and thank you.