I'll be honest. We are interested in history, art & architecture but we will also start rolling our eyes when a guide starts describing the elaborate details of a relief carving or all of the symbolism of something. We are actually probably more interested in beautiful setting overall than in learning every little thing about a group of ruins.

We visited Herculaneum years & years ago and as I recall really liked it. Athens so many years ago that we could actually walk directly in the ruins in the Acropolis was also intriguing. In the Yucatan we visited some of the better regarded ruins--Ek Balaam and Coba--a couple years ago. And, frankly, we thought that would be enough for us. So we were glad we figured out not to make a return trip specifically focused on ruins.

Now Angkor Wat? I am just not sure. I've read all about the place on the posts on this board. Actually I think we might enjoy renting bikes and biking through some of the time. But, overall, would we be wishing we'd spent our time doing something else?

I just had this thought about visiting as I am planning a Vietnam trip and don't know whether or not to visit. Of all the reading I have done in preparation for Vietnam, the thing that sounds most interesting to us is the northern natural area around Sapa doing some trekking and visiting the hilltribe markets & villages. So, I'd actually enjoy actually seeing how people live rather than just visiting the big tourist sites. What do you think? Thanks.

If you're ever going to go to Angkor, go now rather than later, as it's getting very popular. However, if you time it right, and visit some of the less well-known temples, you can still have a whole temple all to yourself. You can also wander around as you like. Sounds like you shouldn't bother with a guide - just pick up a copy of Dawn Rooney's guide and guide yourself. I think you can still rent a bicycle (although not a motor cycle), or hire one of the little carriages pulled by a motorbike. Take a look at http://talesofasia.com/ for lots of info on Angkor (and the rest of Cambodia).

I would recommend going - I went back because two-and-a-half days the first time weren't enough. The site is very big, and the temples are spread out, and the trees and the lake are beautiful.

If I were you, I'd go. You need a driver - forget about biking - the area is huge. Your challenge will be to find a driver that speaks English well - maybe your hotel could recommend someone or maybe someone here knows someone that they have had success with. If you are interested in seeing how people live, hire Ponheary or Dara - they are guides but very unique - tell them what you want to do and what your priorities are. Do a search on this forum for details.

Go to Angkor quickly. There are more and more tourist-oriented building plans. The temples at AW are much more amazing than the Mayan ruins. They are truly unique. I agree with Craig that you would be well served to get a guide and driver. You'll see much more. Ponheary can be reached at [email protected].

Angkor Wat will stay with you for ever.Go now before it all changes.Take a look at our website for more info
http//www.leightravelclub.com
Three or four days is long enough so you can easily tie it in with Vietnam.Dont put it off. It really is very very special.

Only you know whether Angkor is for you, but I absolutely agree with what others have said - if you have any interest go as soon as possible.

I had wanted to see Angkor since I was a child. I preferred to do lots of reading ahead of time, and chose to employ a driver, but no guide. The driver spoke enough English so I could tell him which Wat we wanted next, which entrance to drop us at and which to pick us up at. It all worked beautifully. Dawn Rooney's guidebook is the one I recommend.

We spent a week there, didn't of course, see all of the accessible temples, but saw many. We visited a number of the so-called minor temples where we were the only visitors. I found the temples at Angkor far more compelling than any thing I saw in Greece.

If you don't want to go on a trip that is focused on ruins then don't go to Angkor Wat. I listened, and did not roll my eyes, when the guide was describing the elaborate details of the sites. I thought it was fascinating, but it might not be for you. I didn't think that the area had a particularly beautiful setting.

Sapa would be a great trip because it sounds like the area has what you are actually looking for. You can go mountain biking up there or there are bike tours in the Mekong Delta region.

I was very happy that I hired a car and driver (and guide) in Siem Reap. There was quite a bit of traffic to/around the sites, hot and dusty, and I was definitely glad to not be one of the people in the tuk-tuk open-air kind of transportation. Can't imagine how pleasureable it might be cycling around there.

Go to Angkor Wat if you are interested in visiting it and the ruins in the area. Don't go just because it is a popular destination and you happen to be in the area.

I found Angkor to be one of those rare places that was better than the hype. I visited Coba about 20 years ago and then about 2 years ago and the change was awful. 20 years ago we had the place to ourselves. 2 years ago there was a town where there had only been jungle. For the most part, Angkor seemed more like the Coba of 20 years ago than 2. There were a lot of visitors, but our guide, Dara, was able to avoid the crowds most of the time. Angkor is so spread out that there are lots of ruins miles from the tour bus destinations where you can enjoy the natural area virtually alone. You can also visit Tonle Sap lake, and arrange to go off the beaten path to see more remote villages or the bird migration if you're there at the right time. Hope this helps.

Talb,

Your message helped me. I am determined to go now before the tourism industry completely ruins it, but have been worried about the problems of going during the winter holidays.

Thanks!

As I said on the Europe board, Angkor Wat did NOT get my vote as one of the best seven Wonders of the World-(you can vote your favorites from the 21 finalists -Angkor Wat being one of them- at:
www.new7wonders.com/index.php?id=351)

I understand some 20 million people around the world have already voted, and the results will be announced July 7 '07 in Lisbon.

I gave it to Chichen Itza in Mexico instead, built around the same time period, which I enjoyed far more than AW-the touts in and around this complex are unbelieveable, worse than anything I've seen anywhere else-and as far as being over-touristed, well, I thought it was bad two years ago, I can't even imagine what it's like now, and have no desire to go back ever to find out. I did Angkor in one day, and one day was more than enough for me, because after a while it DOES have a certain sameness to the carvings and temples so that it all begins to blur and run together.

And the setting-Siem Riep-nothing to write home about-I am not a fan of Cambodia at all, as you can tell.

Julies, we have the same concern about Angkor, so I am curious to find out your decision. I am the "ruin freak" in my family - have been to all the Mayan ruins in Mexio and Guatemala, also Macchu Picchu, the Acropolis & the Egyptian pyramids. My kids liked Tikal and Chichen Izta, but just for a short visit. We only have eight days in SE Asia and I am slightly concerned about spending three in Angkor. That said, I feel I will be sorry if we miss somthing that could have a lifelong impact on my kids - they have enjoyed other iconic sights in our travels. BI am also concerned that they will just be too touristy in late December. Would love to hear what you decide. We are still at a point where we could cancel our Angkor arrangements and head to a Thai beach or the Golden Triangle.

You will not be disappointed. And I agree, go now. It was already congested, but seeing all those hotels - it will be crazy in a few years.

Get Dara as your guide. He knows when and where t ogo to temples so you can have your own spiritual releasel.

I booked my Angkor tour through A.T.S Tours [email protected] via a girl named Ms Kimney, and ended with a guide named Ree. He was outstanding and spoke excellent English. He cost me $20 for the day, plus $30 for an airconditioned car and driver. I have no idea if I was ripped off, or if it was a fair price. But I was extemely happy, and would use ATS again. They also booked air internal travel for me in Cabodia and Vietnam, and were super efficient.

Hi all--Thanks for your suggestions and input. We mulled it around, and maybe we will regret it, but we've decided to give it a pass on this trip.

Crosscheck-- You may want to do what we did. We got several videos about Angkor Wat from our local library and watched them. It was enough for us to decide that we'd prefer to spend out limited time elsewhere on this trip. We're instead choosing some more active adventures off the beaten tourist path like a 5 day guided bike trip in the Mekong Delta of Vietnam close to the Cambodian border far from where the tour groups usually go. And we want to do some biking trekking in the Mai Chau valley area outside of Hanoi. We would have had to pass on these options if we'd voted for Angkor Wat.

Julie, You must be relieved to have come to a decision. We still have a week or so before I have to cancel superfluous hotel reservations. I did show my family some youtube videos of Angkor and the kids actually seem interested. However I'd love to see the website describing the Mekong bicycle tour.

crosscheck--

This is the bicycle trip we're doing. It's the 5 day version because the owner says they have decided to discontinue the 3 day trips as they don't really offer sufficient times.

http://www.cycling-vietnam.com/index.html

Here are some others I also considered.

http://www.cyclingvietnam.net/inner_..._adventure.htm

Exotisimo Travel's Adventure section also just sent me a proposal for a 4 day 3 night trip that sounds very interesting. Unfortunately it is sent as an Adobe attachment that I can't figure out how to copy.

These look great - are you doing this in december?

We're going the very beginning of Jan.

Hi julies -I'm just back from 6 days in Siem Reap, my third visit. Clearly I think there's something pretty special about those old ruins.

Here's a couple of tips for when you get there: grab yourself a guide book with lots of pictures and a tuk tuk and a driver. That's all you'll need, unless you want an interminable monologue from a guide. Total cost $25 [including the guide book] Every day head off to a different set of temples.

Pace yourself, it gets hot and you'll get templed out. Two hours in the morning, a nice lunch [try Artisans D'ankor restaurant outside the main entrance to Ankor Wat] then another couple of hours - that'll be enough per day. It's huge - in 6 days I only covered about half of it, taking time to sit and take in beautiful things.

As for relentless tourism: yes, they [we] are everywhere but if you're smart you can avoid it. The guides and tuk tuk drivers will assume you want to do the circuit, just like everybody else, and will take you to the temples in a specific order - just like everybody else. This means that everybody arrives at the same place at the same time. Simple solution: just tell him that you want to do it reverse. Result: no tourists. Trust me - it works. Alternately, it you arrive somewhere and it's jam packed with tourists, just tell him you'll go somewhere else - there's lots to choose from - then come back later.

Ankor Wat: two tips - instead of coming in the front entrance - go round to the other side and start your exploration from there and exit thru the main entrance. No tourists.

Second - if arriving at the main entrance - cross the first causeway, then, instead of heading straight in - take a right, walk down a long corridor and go in the entrance on the side, walk serenely through a lovely path, down past a village and a monastery and head in to the main complex that way. No tourists.

And - when you're in the middle and see a very steep set of steps - don't lose your nerve. Go up. It's the best part.

There's a small circuit that everybody does - Ankor Wat/Bayon/and the overgrown place with the famous tree [whose name I've just forgotten]then sunset up on the hill. Thats perfectly cool to do, but there's a Grand Circuit as well with some wonderful stuff - Preah Khanh is stunning - no tourists [en masse at least]

Another tip: don't be dragged into this sunset business. All that means is that every package tourist in Siem Reap collects in the same place at the same time on top of a hill and takes the same photos of the same thing - it's appalling. Just go somewhere else at sunset. Simple. As all the tourists are in one spot - almost everywhere else is completely deserted. Try sunset inside Ankor Wat - or in the overgrown place [I wish I could remember its name arghhh]- it's magical and you will literally be the only ones there.

So - despite what the others on this forum have to say, it's still perfectly possible to experience all the wonders if you give yourself time. If you want to do it on a package tour in 24 hours then you deserve everything you're gonna get. Be smart, be flexible and independent and let the place work its magic on you. It's a knockout.

Stay at Hotel de la Paix - check their website - look carefully and you'll find some great rates. The suites there are wondrous, the service, food and general 'coolness' of the place is easily the best in Siem Reap. Raffles is fine too - in a different style.

But yes, go now.

And think about a couple of days in Phnom Penh. Pol Pot and the genocide museum, Killing Fields may not seem like much fun, but if you want to understand Cambodia 2006 they're essential viewing.

I do hope you rememer my little tips - they'll make a HUGE difference.

Enjoy your trip - ahhh, I wish I was heading back there right now...

Damn - I should have read more carefully - now you're NOT going.

Oh well, perhaps somebody else might benefit from my suggestions.