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India Itinerary- too ambitious?

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Old Apr 28th, 2008 | 06:54 AM
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India Itinerary- too ambitious?

We are planning a 20th anniversary trip this December. We are in our late 40's and are adventurous when it comes to food and travel. I have 15 nights in India to play with. A co-worker of mine who's been to India several times thinks this is too much to accomplish in this time and thinks domestic flights are a hassle and thinks we should avoid overnight trains. Opinions?

Arrive Delhi in evening, spend 2 nights in Delhi
Fly to Varanasi, spend two nights/three days
Fly to Khurajaho, one night/two days
Afternoon train to Agra , two nights in Agra
Evening train to Jaipur, three nights
Fly direct Jaipur to Goa, spend three nights
Afternoon flight to Delhi, spend one night
Midnight flight back home, arrive early afternoon
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Old Apr 28th, 2008 | 07:17 AM
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I am no expert as I am planning a 16 night North India trip-but I bet the experts on this board are going to tell you to drop Goa and spend more time in Rajasthan.

Also, most people will tell you to get in and get out of Agra but I have read reports that Agra is nice once you get off the tourist areas.

I am sure the others will chime in with seasoned feedback.
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Old Apr 28th, 2008 | 07:54 AM
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About 8 years ago, on about my second vacation trip to India, I did virtually your same trip in the same time frame, except that we went to Ranthambore rather than Goa. In retrospect, we wished we had dropped Khajuraho, which was a pain to get to for not much to see. This would have given us more time in what we felt were more interesting places. I have since been back to India more times than I can count, and have been back to Jaipur, Agra, Varanasi (and Goa, separate trip) several times, but have <i>never</i> had a desire to go back to Khajuraho. There are many more interesting temples elsewhere IMO, and there are better examples of good temple carvings in many places in India, including inside the National Museum in Delhi. The trouble I have with Khajuraho, is that after you have seen about the third carving of a horse and woman copulating on the side of a temple (pointed out to you with mock solemnity by the guide “woman and horse having sexual relations”), the whole thing begins to seem faintly ridiculous. Get a good-quality edition of the Karma Sutra and been done with it. Makes a nice souvenir too.

We encountered terrific fog in several places, which is a problem for flights in North India in December, and which caused us to have to reroute ourselves by train and car from Varanasi to and from Khajuraho. That is another reason to cut down on the number of places.

I personally would take a car and driver between Agra and Jaipur and stop at Fatephur Sikri, it is just a logical way to do the trip as it is on the way. I have however, done it both ways, and the train trip is easy and not long, so it is up to you. It would just mean hiring a car a driver in Agra during your stay there to take you out to Fatephur Sikri which really should be seen.

Much as I think the beaches of Goa are quite pretty, and love the food, you might consider staying in Rajasthan and take time to get to more remote areas, into the desert, or see the really interesting Jain temples in the areas (these are lovely). You can always lay by a pool there as well to relax.

If you do go to Goa, I would do all I could to coordinate flights so that you can come back late in the evening and switch airports and go right to your international flight. To fly all the way back to Delhi for one day is really a waste of time, IMO. Or see if you can fly out of Mumbai, or Bangalore.

My general rule is that in two weeks, I don't try go &quot;do&quot; more than 4 places. By that rule alone, I would cut out at leat one place on your itin. For me it would be Khajurao. It would also probably be Goa, just becuase I think you could spend the time in the Rajatshan area and see more things. South India is really a trip in itself. I think you really only have 1 night in Delhi if you are &quot;counting&quot; your arrival night, you might want to spend 2 nights not countring your arrival night.
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Old Apr 28th, 2008 | 08:01 AM
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We went on a similar trip in February and didn't think the pace was too fast. (We went to a lot of other places too but spent the same amount of time in the cities you've included, except for Goa):

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35111329

All seven of our domestic flights went off without any problems at all. Going from Khajuraho to catch the train to Agra in Jhansi we stopped in Orccha which we really enjoyed. We also traveled by car from Agra to Jaipur stopping at Fatehpur Sikri and thought that was a good way to go. You want to spend some time on India roads. I'd skip the night train since it's a great road trip.
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Old Apr 28th, 2008 | 08:11 AM
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I agree with Cicerone about the temples in Khajuraho. We had to fly to Khajuraho to get to Bandhavgarh National Park so we toured the temples since we were there anyway. I'm glad we didn't make a special trip to see them.
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Old Apr 28th, 2008 | 08:43 AM
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ok, sounds like I can skip Khajuraho. Would you then fly or take the train from Varanasi to Agra? I had planned a day trip from Agra to Fatephur Sikri, but sounds like hiring a car/driver to drive to Jaipur and hitting Fatephur on the way is a good option.
Now I need to talk my wife out of Goa. Personally, I'd rather not waste time sitting on a beach when there's so much else to see in India. I planned to backtrack to Delhi to use the direct flight to Chicago, we could fly out the same day, but that leaves about a 5 hour layover, that's why I figured on just staying overnight to have another day in Delhi. If we eliminate Goa, I'd add another day in Delhi onto the beginning of the trip.
If I open up 3-4 days by skipping Goa, what should I add, or should I just spend more time in each location?
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Old Apr 28th, 2008 | 06:53 PM
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You may be able to convince your wife to skip the beach with the following offer: the money saved on flight to Goa can be used for (i) jewelry to be purchased in Jaipur (try the Gem Palace, a sight in itself), or (ii) auyvedic treatments in Rajasthan (try the double massage with two masseuse working in tandem, she will never want to go back to a single masseuse, or the foot massage, and by that I mean the masseuse massages you with <i>her</i> feet, really incredible pressure they can get; of course the Shirodhara oil treatment for the “third” eye is really excellent too, or ear candling is weird but effective). She can sit by a pool in the winter sunshine to relax, just as nice really, you may not want to jump into the pool in December, but many pools are heated so maybe that is an option too.

Hard call on whether to add more time to places on your existing itin or add another place. I would add one more day in Dehli, which then leaves you only 2 days, which makes it hard to add on another desitnation. You could stay in Jaipur and use that as a base for longer day trips into the desert areas (or do something like an overnight camel safari), you could stay in Agra and use that as a base to explore places like the Chambal park area or on the way up to Jaipur stop at Bharataphur bird sanctuary for a night. Or you could simply pick a third place in the area to spend a few days, or substitute one of the places below for Jaipur (as I don’t think you shoud cut out Agra or Varanasi). You could go to Udaipur or Jodhpur, for example its an easy flight to Udaipur from Jaipur on Jet Airways airlines, or there are flights to Jodhpur from Delhi, so you could do Jodhpur at the end (a longish drive but not uninteresting, a train trip is also a good option elsewhere). Jaisalmer is also a choice, this is harder to get to as there are no flights, but train options or going by car both ways are possible, but it would IMO, mean cutting out one place on your current itinerary. (There is very occasionally an attempt at commercial service into this airport, sometimes Kingfisher will fly as will Air India, but it is quite unpredictable and I would discount it as a possibility given the current state of affairs in Pakistan, which affects the use of the airport which is an air force airport.) Ranthambore Park about 3 hours south of Jaipur is really interesting, IMO and might make a good choice, you can train back to Delhi from there in about 5 hours, or go back up to Jaipur and fly. I would suggest you get some guidebooks and read up on the area, as there are lots of options. I personally want to try the the tented camp on the reservoir at Chhatra Sagar near Jodhpur, take a look at http://www.chhatrasagar.com)

Yes, the layover bit in Delhi can be difficult between a domestic and international flight. The domestic terminal is about 4-5 miles from the international, even though both are called Indira Gandhi Airport, so you do need to leave a bit of time to travel between the two, as your baggage won’t go through, and you will have to check-in for you international flight. There is a free shuttle bus between the two, but you should leave <i>at least</i> an hour, probably a bit more, to make the transfer that way. A taxi would do it in about 20 minutes, if memory serves the cost is something like US$10 could be less. (If you stay at a Delhi hotel earlier in the trip, you could also arrange for their car service to make this transfer for you, will cost a bit more, but may be more pleasant). The int’l terminal is basically now a construction site, and there is <i>nothing</i> to do at the airport, and I don’t expect it to improve much by December. The business class lounges are crap and they have now closed the little internet caf&eacute; that used to be in the main waiting area. However, if you end up with several hours waiting time, you could take a taxi to a close-by hotel like the Radisson or the Trident Gurgaon and have a meal (or a spa treatment if the Trident lets you book as a non-guest, definitely worth asking, see http://www.oberoihotels.com/ or http://www.tridenthotels.com/home/index.asp). Have the taxi driver wait for you, then go to the international airport to check in for your flight home. You would need to be at the int’l terminal about 2-3 hours before your flight, 2 if you are business class, a bit more if you are economy (longer lines). Doing the layover at a nearby hotel makes it ore pleasant, even if it is just having a meal in the restaurant and a drink in the lobby, the taxi can wait in the parking lot with your bags.



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Old Apr 29th, 2008 | 06:36 AM
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Cicerone-
I like the way you think! I think one or more of your suggested bribes should work!
I think I'll leave out Khajuraho and Goa, maybe add one place in Rajasthan.
I think having a day in Delhi at the end of the trip will make the onward travel a little easier, we'll have a place to leave our luggage and can arrange for a ride to the airport through our hotel. The flight leaves around midnight, so traffic shouldn't be too bad.
I have the LP India guide and have read through most of it, I'll reread the Rajasthan section and see what piques my interest and works into the itinerary the easiest.
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Old Apr 29th, 2008 | 07:39 AM
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Cicerone-I am always amazed at the depth and breadth of your responses on this board. I thank you for your time in composing such informative and valuable feedback.

jvrab12
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Old May 1st, 2008 | 12:55 AM
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A good itinerary shall be :

Day 01 : Arr. Delhi
Day 02 : Delhi
Day 03 : Delhi - Varanasi
Day 04 : Varanasi
Day 05 : Varanasi - Khajuraho
Day 06 : Khajuraho-Orchha-Jhansi-Agra
Day 07 : Agra - Jaipur (Train : 1740-2220 Hrs)
Day 08 : Jaipur
Day 09 : Jaipur - Goa
Day 10 : Goa
Day 11 : Goa
Day 12 : Goa
Day 13 : Goa
Day 14 : Goa
Day 15 : Goa - Delhi
Day 16 : Depart Delhi

www.tours-india.co.uk
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Old May 1st, 2008 | 07:13 AM
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We got invited to stay at someone's home in Bhopal for a few days (a friend of a colleague). I'm now thinking of

Delhi-Varanasi-Agra-Ranthambore Park-Bhopal-Delhi.

I've talked my wife out of Goa. I'd like to see Jaipur, but I'm struggling with a way to fit it into this Itinerary without backtracking or long drives (I plan on taking the train Varanas-Agra-Ranthambor-Bhopal and flying the other legs)
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Old May 5th, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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I have been to all the places except Khurajaho this past December. India was colder than we expected so take some layers. Goa is lovely but doesn't take three days. It is mainly an R &amp; R spot for many sailors off of the tankers. Some lovely churches and beaches. Be sure to avoid purchasing at the Government run Central Cottage Industries. The guide books say it is safe but we were ripped off there. India is wonderful. Do not eat anything cold even at 5 star hotels--that means custard, strawberries, pudding..... stay with hot desserts, pealed fruit, and hot food. with 15 nights you do not have time for Delhi belly. If you get sick call the hotel doctor--- they are use to sick tourist and prescribe the meds differently than those that you come prepared to take. You get better faster.....enjoy
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Old May 12th, 2008 | 06:13 AM
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Hi Guys,
hope someone can help. I need to book train from jaipur to udaipur. do you know how i can go about this. Travelling in Dec08. Also whats the difference in leeper class/fisrt AC/second AC ??
Thanks
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Old May 12th, 2008 | 06:31 AM
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Have you thought about flying? Jet Airways flies Jaipur to Udaipur in about an hour.
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Old May 13th, 2008 | 05:14 AM
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Hi, Thanks for your info, but i want to see a bit of the country and prefer to travel by train. Any idias ??
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Old May 14th, 2008 | 04:42 AM
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eyeski - just saw your itinerary. Go to Goa only if u r an absolute beach buff. if not, u get sea,sun and sand anywhere in the world.suggest u avoid our so called national parks - they are an &quot;overhyped disappointment&quot;. Keep that for Africa. Keep just one full day in Delhi and move out. While in Rajasthan, why not stay for a night or two at the many beautiful small palaces converted into hotels in smaller towns, rather than just doing the big cities. The real India exists in the country side, not its larger cities. Must u really add Bhopal? Nothing much to do and some how doesn't fit in with your itinerary. You could take a train (Shatabdi Express) from Agra to get there -is some 4 hours away.Getting from Agra to Ranthambore will be a task. Think you need to re-look at this. Delhi (1N)-Varanasi(2N)-Agra(1N)-Jaipur(2N)-Khimsar(1N)-Luni or Rohet(1N)-Udaipur via Ranakpur(2N)-Mumbai(only to connect). You may find it rushed and can add a night where I have shown just 1N.
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Old May 14th, 2008 | 07:36 AM
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I feel like I shouldn't pass on an opportunity to stay at someone's home. I'm now looking at an open jaw into Delhi and out of Mumbai.
Current re-revised itinerary:
Delhi- 3nts, 2 days- Amarya Gardens
Varanasi 3 nts 3 1/2 days Hotel Ganges View
Overnight train to Agra
Agra 2 nights- Gardenvilla Homestay
Drive to Sawai Madhopur- 1 nt
Overnight train to Bhopal-2 nts
Fly to Mumbai in morning, 1 nt splurge for club room at Taj Palace- fly back home around midnight
I'm trying to avoid constant travel-resisting the urge to see too many places
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Old May 14th, 2008 | 05:06 PM
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I just realized that my last itinerary has me coming back, working one day and then having a five day weekend because of Christmas. I think I'll stretch the trip to 18 nights and add 3 nights in Jaipur in between Agra and Sawai Madhopur and spend two nights instead of one there
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